j105 sailboat weight

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Beneteau 311, Catalina 310 and Hunter 326 Used Boat Comparison

Maine Cat 41 Used Boat Review

Cheoy Lee Clipper 36 & 42 Used Boat Review

Aluminum Cruisers: The Basics for First-Time Buyers

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation

How Does the Gulf Stream Influence our Weather?

Stopping Mainsheet Twist

Working with High-Tech Ropes

Getting a Clue for the Blown-Out Clew

Monel Seizing Wire is Worth the Extra Cost

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

Mastering Precision Drilling: How to Use Drill Guides

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Windlass Replacement on an Island Packet 40

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

Those Extras you Don’t Need But Love to Have

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

Chafe Protection for Dock Lines

• Sailboat Reviews

On its 10th birthday, the J/105 enjoys an immensely strong class association fueled by a group of owners who wouldn?t sail any other way than fast and easily. Problems with the boat are few, and right out front.

Some years ago – never mind how long precisely – Rodney Johnstone, a Connecticut schoolteacher, changed careers and became an ad salesman for a marine magazine. Then, still unsatisfied, he enrolled in the Westlawn School of Yacht Design. He didn’t graduate, but he did became so successful designing the line of J-Boats that the school gave him an honorary degree so it could use his name in advertisements.

This Horatio Alger story begins appropriately enough with rags, in this case, Ragtime, the prototype of the J/24 Rod built in his garage. During its first season of racing on Long Island Sound, 1976, the flat-bottomed speedster took 17 of 19 starts. Rod’s brother Robert (Bob) was marketing manager for Alcort/AMF, and asked his bosses if they’d like to build Ragtime on a production basis. In one of the few missed opportunities ever to occur in the sailing industry, an industry where “no” is usually the smart choice, they indeed said no.

Ha. So Bob did what any self-respecting man would do – he quit. J-Boats was formed by the brothers in 1977, and Everett Pearson’s TPI began building the J/24. By 1986 more than 4,200 had been sold. By 1997, there were more than 5,200.

The appeal of the J/24 is partly due to just those numbers; there are large, competitive fleets around the U.S. and the world. J-Boats licensed builders in Australia, Japan, Italy, England, France, Brazil and Argentina. But it’s more than that. The J/24 is an affordable option for people who want to race one-designs bigger than daysailers, but don’t have a hundred grand a year and more for grand prix racing. If you really want to do Key West Race Week, the J/24 can be trailered behind the family car.

While the J/105 isn’t nearly as trailerable as the 24 (an ad for the boat states flatly that it’s “for people who live near where they sail”) it does echo that theme of maximum bang and flexibility for the buck for people who intend to sail rather than sit still.

Introduced in 1992, the J/105 isn’t alone in the sport-boat genre, but it was certainly a progenitor of the species. PS editor Doug Logan, reviewing the boat for Sailing World soon after its appearance, saw a confluence of ideas that had been expressed in widely different types of boats – like Bill Lee sleds, Farrier’s trimarans, and Schumacher’s racer/cruisers – coming together in the J/105. The staggering idea at the time was the flat rejection of interior volume and cushiness in favor of simplicity, performance, and good looks. And this in a boat that was intended to cruise at least a bit, as well as race as a one-design. It was truly a bold move on Rod Johnstone’s part – and it has worked, though more on the racing side than on the cruising side. In its 10-year production run, more than 500 J/105s have been built.

The Design Like most other J-Boats, the 34-1/2-foot, 7,750-pound J/105 is for people who enjoy speed and responsiveness. If you drive a Lincoln Town Car, buy a Tartan 4600. If you drive a Boxster, buy a J/105.

Anyone who has planed a daysailer knows the thrill of getting the hull up out of the water and boogeying. “Now,” designers like Rod Johnstone must have mused, “if only you could do that on a bigger keel boat.”

The speed available in a keelboat today was almost unthinkable before George Hinterhoeller, who no doubt had the same musings, designed and built his breakthrough Shark 24, way back in 1959. One Shark averaged more than 10 knots in an 80-mile race.

Rod Johnstone gets speed the same way Hinterhoeller did, with light weight, a flattish bottom, and a big rig. The J/105’s displacement/length ratio (D/L) is just 135, which makes it a very light displacement boat, and a sail area/displacement ratio (SA/D) of 24. These numbers make even the J/35, arguably one of the most successful mid-size racers of the modern era, look tame by comparison: D/L of 174 and SA/D of 21.

Overhangs are minimal and the waterline is long, at 29′ 6″. Beam is generous at 11′ for good form stability, draft is deep (6′ 6″) for ultimate stability, freeboard is low to reduce windage, and the cockpit is long, so there’s room for the crew, whether racing or just fooling around. The seats are 6′ 5″, sufficient yardage to sleep on. A 5′ 6″ shoal keel is available, and the one of choice in areas like the Chesapeake Bay. The limit of positive stability (LPS) is given at between 125° and 127° for shoal draft models, and about 130° for the deep keel. These exceed the generally accepted minimum of 120° for offshore sailing.

The J/105 has the same bow as the J/80, J/90 and others in the line; that is, a minimally raked profile with more curve and not as much “plumbness” (if there is such a word) on paper as appears in the water. From a purely aesthetic point of view, the line isn’t that interesting, but here form follows function. It does what it’s supposed to. The reverse transom has a molded cavity with ladder for swimming and boarding.

The keel is a deep, narrow fin with a slightly raked leading edge. You don’t want to hit a rock with this configuration, as you’re unlikely to ride over it. And if you do, check the floors under the cabin floorboards to see if you’ve wrenched anything.

The cabin is low profile, befitting a performance boat, with just two windows per side.

The rig is fractional, to permit bending the mast for optimal sail shape.

Construction All J-Boats are built by TPI in Warren, Rhode Island, using the patented SCRIMP process. We’ve written about it before. In a nutshell, the fiberglass structures, principally the hull and deck, are laid up dry; that is, without resin. Layers of biaxial fiberglass fabric are laid into the mold, then sealed in a plastic “envelope” or bag as it were. A polypropylene woven fabric is spread on top of the laminate so there’s room for the resin to migrate vertically. When a vacuum is applied, air is sucked out of the envelope and resin is drawn in through a network of feeder tubes. This enables the builder to achieve a 70:30 glass-to-resin ratio, thought by many to be the ideal mix (some think it’s a little thin on the resin, preferring 65:35 or even 60:40).

With so little resin in the laminate, a core is definitely required to restore stiffness. J-Boats and TPI favor Baltek end-grain balsa, in this case its AL600 product. There are on the owners’ website a few complaints about print-through (seeing the pattern of the underlying fiberglass through the gelcoat) and flat spots where gelcoat is nearly absent.

As an aside, a major benefit of closed-molding techniques, in which the chemical reaction of the resin and catalyst takes place inside a bag and the resultant gases are exhausted directly out of the building, is a much cleaner air environment for the worker – and fewer headaches for the builder trying to meet EPA and OSHA guidelines for volatile organic compounds (VOCs).

TPI was a pioneer in studying and offering anti-blister protection. Today it uses a vinylester resin from Interplastic as an outer coat, under the gelcoat. A 10-year warranty against blistering is given.

The hull is stiffened by fore-and-aft and transverse solid glass hat sections molded with the hull at the time of initial lay-up. Before hull #156, these keel stringers and floor members were solid glass tabbed in after the hull was molded. The new method avoids secondary bonding, which is not as strong, where the beams (often wood or foam) are glassed to the finished hull. A superior secondary bond is achieved when the hull resin is still “green,” but nothing beats laying everything up together.

The main structural bulkhead is tabbed to the hull and deck, which is far preferable to the all-too-common practice of fitting the bulkhead into a molded groove in the headliner.

The keel stub is fiberglass and the ballasted bulb is lead.

The balanced spade rudder is fiberglass, as is the rudderpost, which is laid up with a quadraxial fabric. There are upper and lower bearings, and both have been a source of aggravation for many owners. According to the J/105 owners’ website, the bearings are aluminum, which corrode when in contact with the copper in bottom paint. Jeff Johnstone says they have a three-to-five year life, “sometimes even shorter if sacrificial zincs were allowed to dissolve, or if the Mylar spacer between the stainless and aluminum was removed, or if there was bottom paint on metallic parts of bearing, or simply if the bearing was not regularly rinsed out with fresh water a few times per season.”

Some owners have been replacing them with Harken plastic bearings, but now other sources must be found because Harken is no longer making bearings. The retrofit is not an easy job, say the owners who’ve done it.

Standard steering is a laminated wood tiller with Spinlock hiking stick. Wheel steering is optional, and boats with it command slightly higher resale prices. At least one owner said a tiller-steered boat can be hard to handle in heavy weather, but it’s hard to beat the feel of a tiller, and its simplicity must be admired.

Another steering-related problem has been the emergency tiller. Some owners say their tiller attaches at right angles to the centerline, so that when the rudder is centered, the tiller is hard to port. Other owners said their tiller didn’t fit when the boat was commissioned. These problems are correctable and should be checked out on purchase, new or used.

The Bomar hatch on the foredeck has been a source of aggravation. It’s opened when changing sails, and when laid flat on deck the welds in the frame are prone to cracking. (This stainless steel hatch is of good quality, but not as good as Bomar’s cast aluminum series of hatches). At first Bomar thought they should take responsibility and replaced a number at no cost. When it was determined that deck camber and opening past 180° combined to cause the failures, a deal was worked out with J-Boats to offer for $35 a bumper (to prevent opening the hatch beyond 180°) and a weld repair kit.

Remaining complaints include failure of cockpit seat locker hasps, cove stripes that are not straight or not of a uniform width, or that there are scribe marks for a cove stripe that doesn’t exist.

Interior The accommodation plan is straightforward with a 7′ V-berth in the bow. Moving aft there’s an enclosed head with optional shower, and a hanging locker. The split galley is just aft of the main bulkhead, with a nav table to port and a stainless steel sink and space for an optional one-burner Origo alcohol stove to starboard. The ice box is actually a 54-quart portable cooler kept under the companionway ladder. Obviously it can’t be as well insulated as a built-in icebox, but it does save weight, and that’s the operative concept here. The portable freshwater tank holds just 5 gallons.

Opposing 6-1/2′ settee berths are port and starboard, with stowage bins outboard. These have gray vinyl trim and cold-molded teak cap moldings. Quarter berths (one or two) are optional, and seem to be favored by those owners who have them, though Johnstone says few boats are ordered that way. Length is 6-1/2′.

The trim theme is light and easy maintenance. The overhead and ceilings (hull sides) are covered with vinyl. Seat cushions are upholstered with Sunbrella. If you spring for the optional cockpit cushions they can double as backrests for the settees; they certainly increase comfort.

Other options include automatic electric bilge pump, shore power, cockpit/cabin table, sink in the head countertop, 20-gallon freshwater tank under the starboard berth, utensil drawer in galley, and a chart drawer under the nav table big enough to hold Chart Kits. They all sound nice to have, but together must add several hundred pounds.

The standard forward portlights are fixed, but you can have opening ones with screens for an extra charge. It’s also possible to have two ports in the aft face of the cabin trunk, either side of the companionway.

The interior is simple, and therein lies its attractiveness. Too many boats grow overly complicated as owners try to replicate the comforts of home. The J/105 resists that urge and rewards the owner with more time sailing (faster sailing at that), and less time fixing things.

The original floorboards were said to be weak by many owners. Many rotted when water entered the exposed end grain of the plywood. The problem was caused by the shallow bilge (a drawback of flat-bottom boats); when the boat heeled, the bottom of the boards got wet. Later, the plywood was covered with a plastic, but some of these $700 boards delaminated because the end grain still wasn’t sealed. Now, Johnstone says, “The standard for the last three years has been the Wear-rite synthetic teak and holly sole, which is used on a lot of charter boats in the Caribbean and is much more forgiving of punishment.” J-Boats seems anxious to correct such problems and customer service seems to be quite good.

For many people, the most vexing problem will be the headroom – just 5′ 4″ in the saloon, unless you stand in the open companionway hatch under the dodger. The lack of headroom isn’t an acute problem for everyone, since virtually everything belowdecks is done sitting, lying down, or bending over. The low overhead would, however, become tedious if you were cooped up for several days on board in rainy weather.

Performance Now the fun part. The J/105 is fast and handles like a sports car. Indeed, sprit boats like the 105 created the so-called “sport boat” genre.

Powering the 105 is a tall, keel-stepped, tapered fractional-rig mast with double airfoil spreaders. Mast and boom are painted with Awlgrip polyurethane. All stays are Navtec rod. Shrouds are continuous, meaning they are a single piece; this avoids potential problems at extra terminal fittings, such as at spreaders, but requires careful bending of the guide tubes at the spreader tips. Continuous or discontinuous, rod rigging saves weight aloft and reduces windage.

On early boats, the balsa core in the deck was not removed in the area where chainplates pass through. Because chainplates work on any boat, it’s nearly impossible to keep that interface watertight. As a result, some cores got waterlogged. On later boats, the core was removed in favor of solid glass. Then, the little bit of water that migrates down the chain plate causes no harm – unless it enters bolt holes drilled in plywood bulkheads. So, bulkheads should be checked, too.

Hardware includes a Harken furler for the jib, Lewmar 44AST 2-speed primary winches, Lewmar 30AST 2-speed halyard and secondary winches, Schaefer turning blocks, Spinlock rope clutches, Harken traveler and mainsheet systems, carbon fiber sprit with under-deck launching and retraction system, Sailtech backstay adjuster, and Hall Quick Vang. This is all top quality gear; Practical Sailor has long rated the expensive Quick Vang as the best rigid vang made.

The asymmetrical spinnaker is in a snuffer, so that jibing can be a one-person operation. The spinnaker can be partially reefed.

A number of owners have mentioned water entering the boat through the sprit tube in the forward cabin, inspiring a number of creative solutions involving neoprene rubber and various lip seals.

When Doug Logan test sailed an early J/105 10 years ago off Miami, conditions were ideal for showcasing the boat’s strengths – a 20-knot northeasterly and three-foot waves. “For the better part of an hour we maintained speeds between 12.5 and 13.5 knots, never lower than 12 and up to 14.8 at the top end. This wasn’t a stomach-churning reach either. We had excellent control of the boat, and didn’t have to work hard.”

On the way back upwind, the boat was overpowered due to the lack of a reefing line. “Even so, we made 7.5 knots with the sheets just slightly eased.”

(The full Sailing World review is on the J/105 page at the J-Boats website, www.jboats.com , under “Less Is More.”)

Owners say you can sail with full main and jib up to about 22-25 knots, after which they switch down to a storm jib, and at around 30 knots put a reef in the mainsail.

A class controversy involves adjustable genoa sheet leads. Class racing rules prohibit the use of block and tackle and bungy cord to move the car from the cockpit. Instead, a crewmember has to go on deck and manually move the car. If there’s a load on the car, rather than easing the sheet (and losing speed) some people try stepping on the sheet forward of the car so that it can be moved. This, say proponents of adjustable leads, is dangerous. Opponents say adjustable lead systems are expensive and unnecessary. Some owners have installed adjustable systems for general-purpose use, but have pins installed in the cars for use when racing.

The auxiliary is a Yanmar 2GM20F diesel, which means two cylinders, 20-horsepower, freshwater cooled. A number of owners note that it jumps around a fair amount on its soft mounts, which in some installations has made dripless shaft seals leak. For those owners, a better alternative might be one of the dripless packing materials, such as Drip Free, in a conventional packing gland.

Conclusion By all measures, the J/105 has been, and continues to be, a considerable success. The reasons are simple: It’s a simple boat that’s fast and fun to sail.

Several decades ago we judged quality by weight: the heavier the boat, the better the quality and the higher the cost. High-tech composite construction has turned that axiom inside-out. Now you pay more for less, so to speak: epoxy and vinylester resins cost more than polyester; modern directional and high-strength fabrics and fibers cost more than chopped strand mat and woven roving; and vacuum bagging and infused resin molding methods like SCRIMP cost more than chopper gun spray jobs and hand lay-ups. Further, the tapered spars used on J-Boats cost more than the telephone poles found on most boats. Then there’s the carbon fiber sprit, rigid boom vang, and other stuff that’s not part of your standard cruising boat package. All this is to try to explain the average out-the-door price of a new J/105 of about $150,000. Prices of recent-year used boats range from $85,000 to $130,000 depending on equipment and condition. Deals are better on older boats (see the price history on a 1992 model above). Bear in mind that most J/105s will have been sailed flat-out. They don’t seem to sit around the yard much.

Also With This Article Click here to view “Used Boat Price History: J/105 – 1992 Model.”

Contact – J-Boats, 401/846-8410, www.jboats.com .

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

The Boat From True Spirit – Sparkman & Stephens

Top 5 Boat Hacks – Boat Maintenance Tips and Tricks

Pearson 30 Sailboat Review

How To Change Your Sailboat Engine Mounts

Latest sailboat review.

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

J/105 Class Association

Class contact information.

Click below

Class Email

Class Website

One-Design Class Type: Keelboat

Was this boat built to be sailed by youth or adults? Both

Approximately how many class members do you have? 300

Photo Credit:Christopher Howell

Photo Credit: Christopher Howell

About J/105 Class Association

Introduced in 1991 as the first modern day keelboat with bow-sprit and asymmetric spinnaker, the J/105 today is the most successful one-design keelboat class over 30′ in the USA. The Class Rules include an owner-driver rule, tight restrictions on Category 3 professionals and annual sail purchase restrictions to keep racing affordable and as Corinthian as modern one-design can be.

Boats Produced: Approx. 690

Class boat builder(s):

Approximately how many boats are in the USA/North America? Approx. 500

Where is your One-Design class typically sailed in the USA? List regions of the country:

Does this class have a spinnaker or gennaker? Yes

How many people sail as a crew including the helm?  5-7

Ideal combined weight of range of crew:  1,102 lbs.

Boat Designed in  1991

Length (feet/inches): 34.5 Ft.

Beam: 11 Ft.

Weight of rigged boat without sails: 7,750 lbs.

Draft: 6.5 Ft.

Mast Height: 42 Ft.

Back to One-Design Central

Copyright ©2018-2024 United States Sailing Association. All rights reserved. US Sailing is a 501(c)3 organization. Website designed & developed by Design Principles, Inc. -->

Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts.

• Sailboat Guide

J/105 is a 34 ′ 6 ″ / 10.5 m monohull sailboat designed by Rod Johnstone and built by J Boats and Waterline Systems, LLC starting in 1995.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Embed this page on your own website by copying and pasting this code.

• About Sailboat Guide

©2024 Sea Time Tech, LLC

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

• AROUND THE SAILING WORLD
• BOAT OF THE YEAR
• Email Newsletters
• America’s Cup
• St. Petersburg
• Caribbean Championship
• Boating Safety
• Ultimate Boat Giveaway

One-Design Showcase

About the J/105

Introduced in 1991 as the first modern day keelboat with bow-sprit and asymmetric spinnaker, the J/105 today is the most successful one-design keelboat class over 30′ in the USA with over 680 boats sailing worldwide. The Class Association is an owner-managed organization with strict one-design rules, a world class website, and offers the best and most active one-design racing in the USA today. The Class Rules include an owner-driver rule, tight restrictions on Category 3 professionals, and annual sail purchase restrictions to keep racing affordable and as Corinthian as modern one-design can be.

Class Information:

Class Contact:  Christopher & Julie Howell

Class Contact Email:   [email protected]

Class Contact Phone:  440-796-3100

Class Website:   j105.org

Social Media:   Facebook  |  Twitter  

Class Specs

LOA:  34 ft. 6 in. 

LWL:  29 ft. 6 in. 

Beam:  11 ft. 

Draft:  6 ft. 6 in. 

Weight:  7750 lbs. 

Adult Summer Camp’s New Home

The Pacific Northwest’s once-glorious race week relocates to start a new life

Taken For a Ride

An impromptu beer can race doesn’t require thumbs out —but the experience is two thumbs up

From Near and Far

The 2016 Helly Hansen NOOD Regatta in Annapolis is a one-design destination.

Annapolis Youth Sailors Selected to Helly Hansen Junior Crew

The average age of competitors just got a bit lower for the Helly Hansen NOOD Regatta in Annapolis.

• Digital Edition
• Customer Service
• Privacy Policy
• Terms of Use
• Cruising World
• Sailing World
• Salt Water Sportsman
• Sport Fishing
• Wakeboarding

The J105 is a 34.5ft fractional sloop designed by Johnstone and built in fiberglass by J Boats since 1995.

The J105 is a light sailboat which is a very high performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a racing boat. The fuel capacity is originally very small. There is a very short water supply range.

J105 for sale elsewhere on the web:

Main features

Login or register to personnalize this screen.

You will be able to pin external links of your choice.

See how Sailboatlab works in video

We help you build your own hydraulic steering system - Lecomble & Schmitt

Accommodations

Builder data

Modal Title

The content of your modal.

Personalize your sailboat data sheet

Paste a link here:

Give it a title:

And eventually a link to an image for the thumbnail:

 by Paul Beaudin "PB"

J105 Tuning Guide

Getting Started . Boat Preparation . Mast Prep . Deck and Rigging Details . Setup and Tuning . Rig Tension Guide . Installing Your New Sails Sailing . Mainsail Trim . Jib Trim . Spinnaker Trim . Upwind Sailing Tricks . Downwind Sailing Tricks . Line Guide

Introduction

The J105 has become the success story of one-design racing in the new millennium. With over 680 boats built to date, the class is the largest cruiser-racer one-design. Easily sailed with a small crew, the responsive design allows the boat to be fun to sail with only a main, jib and asymmetric spinnaker. Here we will explore the process required for success with your J105 racing program. Success in one-design can be summated into one sentence: He who makes the least mistakes wins. Let us break this down into specific details and progressions towards advancement. The most important factor is boat speed. A racers IQ elevates exponentially as the relative boat speed increases. Boat speed is created through enhancing many small features. Every time you comment that does not matter write it down, because it does matter. Add up 10 insignificant items and you get something tangible. Add up 20 items and your sailing experience changes. Be advised: there are many roads to victory and this tuning guide outlines certain proven techniques that are no way meant to be the only way. We expect the prudent racer not to consider this the bible but to add these concepts and techniques to your existing bag of tricks. Doyle Sails is happy to have and will continue to support the growth of the J105 Class. I am a committed owner and want to help you get the most out of your boat. The better everyone in the class, the better the class.

~ Paul Beaudin "PB"

Boat Preparation / Bottom

The fairness of your bottom and the correct shaping of your foils, keel and rudder are of paramount importance. Perfect foil shape will allow the blades to work to maximum efficiency. Along with a fair bottom allowing minimum drag will result in a maximized boat speed potential. As you will see in the following text everything we do while sailing is geared around maintaining foil and hull form efficiency. The keel is the reason the boat goes forward and not side ways. Always make sure your bottom is perfectly clean. It is shame to cover a beautiful bottom job with slime. Not to mention, very slow. In my area the boats are wet sailed and cleaned weekly by divers. I paint my bottom with a hard finished paint and use a lighter color to make it easier for the diver to clean.

Boat Preparation / Minimum Weight

Drag is slow; keeping the boat at minimum weight will result in greater boat speed. Anything less in the boat will result in greater boatspeed except crew weight, which is movable ballast. Keep everything that is not required, off. Keep all required gear stored as low as possible. I store these items along with a few spare lines, hardware, repair kit and tools in the storage below the galley and nav table with the anchor, 2 required dock lines and bumpers under the starboard main cabin bunk. No bilge water, cooking stuff, unnecessary dock lines, redundant clothing, cruising sails, stamp collections, etc.  Absolutely keep everything out of the aft compartments and V-berth (except the spinnaker).

Boat Preparation / Weight Aloft

Sailing is physics; righting moment vs. wind pressure equals boatspeed. Weight up the rig decreases righting moment exponentially. Again anything not required is slow. Use minimum weight halyards (3 only), small size Windex (unlit) and minimal weight wind instruments. No masthead VHF, lightning rods or Tricolor lights. Remove any redundant wiring. Note:  I am using 10mm halyards for the main and jib to keep clutch slip to a minimum. I use an 8mm Spin halyard. My halyards are not stripped to make them last longer and I get them with a luggage eye in both ends easily end for end for extended life. I will suffer a bit of weight, here and there, but with my other due diligence I can afford a little latitude.  I have no masthead light or instruments, only a small windex. 

Mast Preparation / Forestay Length

I like my forestay at the old maximum 13.035 meters from the forestay attachment to the stem sheerline.  You will usually need to add a toggle to the top of the forestay to make the forestay long enough. Make your furling drum as close to the deck as possible. On the older Harken III furlers, we will have the adjustment screw on the bottom of the furler all the way in. We will fine tune our stay length with the internal adjustment screw on the furler. Use a small shackle on the drum to attach the jib. This keeps the jib close to the deck and creates a better endplate effect. Increasing the efficiency of the jib

Mast Preparation / Measuring with the Mast Down

First measure the distance from the stem/sheer line intersection to the center of the forestay pin on the bow tang. Then measure the forestay, center of pin to center of pin for the difference. Secure the locknut on your furler turnbuckle and you should not need to touch this again.

Mast Preparation / Measuring with the Mast Up

Place a mark on your mast 1000mm down from the top of the black band at the gooseneck. Attach a metal tape measure to your jib halyard and pull tight to the top. We use a metal tape because it will have less stretch than the halyard. Measure to the mark on the mast, pendulum the tape to your forestay and make a mark at the same measurement. The distance from this mark to the stem sheer line intersection is 1270mm. Secure the locknut on your furler turnbuckle and you should not need to touch this again.

Mast Preparation / Set the Mast Rake

This is a critical element of tuning. The Hall Spar in most boats is a fairly soft section for the job at hand. As will be further discussed below, it is hard to get the mast stiff enough, as the breeze builds, to maintain the amount of forestay sag we need to make the jib point well upwind. We want a straight mast, with no prebend (bend in the mast, at rest, without backstay).

Mast Preparation / Set Your Mast Butt

Loosen all the shrouds to slack. Take the spinnaker halyard around the upper shroud and secure aft to one of the spinnaker sheet block bails in the back of the boat. Tighten the spin halyard to remove the slack from the forestay. Mark the position of the mast at the deck fore and aft. Remove the deck chocking, if possible. My mast has Spartite that centers the mast in hole, but I can slide it up and down to do this measurement. Loosen the mast base bolts. I use a rubber mallet and a block of wood to bang the butt forward and aft. Move the butt so the mast is in a neutral position at the chock mark and reinstall the deck chocking.  The aft face of the mast should end up about 10 inches from the bulkhead aft (not the molding) on TPI built boats.

Mast Preparation / Center the Rig

Hoist a tape measure up the genoa halyard. Measuring from side to side to the base of the chainplates, center the rig using the Upper shrouds only. Dont tension to create a compression bend, just enough to keep the mast from flopping around. Keeping the intermediate shrouds loose hand tension the lowers keeping the mast perfectly straight. Note:  Hall masts have a design flaw which kinks the mast at the hounds (forestay attachment) aft usually around one inch. This has little effect on sailing but if your mast is kinked, to have no prebend, the mast should be straight up to that point.

Mast Preparation / Mark Your Spreaders

Install three tape marks on your lower spreaders at 3, 6, 9, 12 inches from the tip for future reference. We usually sail with the leech of the jib between the 3 and 6 inch marks. The 9 and 12 inch marks are for viewing through the mainsail window and should be a different color. 

Mast Preparation / Rig Tools

Combo Wrenches, Waterproof Notepad, Pencil, Calipers.

Combo wrenches 3/4 and 9/16 tied together will work on 90% of the boats with open turnbuckles

Mast Preparation / Setup & Tuning

These are general numbers to get you started. Each boat will tune a little differently and the Loos gauges are not entirely consistent either. Make sure you understand the underlying goals of tuning and you will be able to adjust your own numbers accordingly. The goal is to keep the mast as straight as possible. With the minimal sweep of the spreaders and the size of the spar section the mast is soft for this size boat. We need to keep the mast as straight as possible to maintain its ability to support the forestay as the breeze builds and backstay is applied. This also allows mainsheet tension to also auto trim the headstay in light air. With a straight mast, as you tension the mainsheet or backstay more energy is applied directly to the forestay. The straight mast will also allow for the most projected mainsail area as roach is pushed out to back of the sail. All this rig tuning is done to allow the mast to fit your sails and for your sails to be as flexible as possible to work through the entire wind range. We are asking a limited number of sails (only 2 jibs upwind) to do the work that as many as 10 sails might have done on similar boats under handicap rules.

Nice shot of the correct  headstay sag for the base setting.

How I set up my initial Base Tune. 5-10 knots

Using a Loos #10 Rod Tension Gauge. Tune the Upper Shrouds to 35, 45 on a pre-scrimp boat. Intermediates hand tight. Lowers hand tight -1 full turn. Now I go sailing, in 5-10 knots.  While sailing upwind I will dial in the intermediate and lower shrouds. With this dock tune you should have a fair bit of leeward sag in the mast. You can easily sight this from the front looking up. I will tune the lower and intermediates to bring the mast to showing just a hint of leeward sag on each tack. You should be able to tune the weather lowers and intermediates in this much wind and the process will not be too hard. With the backstay slack, the mast should be straight fore and aft. Next I will check the headstay sag, which should be right around 10 inches. The headstay sag is probably the most important part of this equation.  Note: On pre-scrimp boats dial the uppers to the 10 inches of headstay sag first. I have seen a big variation on how much tension it takes to get there from boat to boat. Not all pre-scrimp boats tune the same.  Scrimp boats seem to be more consistent in this regard. This is your base setting for 5-10 knots of breeze. From here it gets pretty easy.

Measure your gaps  THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT Get out your waterproof note book, pencil, and calipers. Measure the distance between the gap of all the shroud studs and record, as shown. This will become your Tuning Bible . Note: for Ronstan turnbuckles, use the calibrated numbers to records your gaps and double the amount of turns below for each tune. You are only turning one screw, as opposed to two on the open body style turnbuckles.

Installing Your New Doyle Sails

Roller Furling Class Jib

Make sure you have a small shackle at the furling drum and not a snap shackle or connector. Keep the tack of the sail as low as possible. This sail has no UV cover so if you store it on the furler, use the optional jib cover sock to protect it from damaging UV rays. Hoist the sail up by hand until the cloth is snug. Mark your jib halyard as it enters the front of the stopper and add 2 marks in front of this mark at 2 inch intervals for quick reference.

Class Mainsail

Lay the sail out on the deck and install the battens, tapered end inboard. We like to roll the main for long term storage, but will usually flake it on the boom removing the slides from the mast when the sail comes down. Hoisting the main with the Allslip slides is pretty easy. Again mark your halyard for future reference.

Class Asymmetric Spinnaker

This is launched from the forepeak out of the forward hatch.

Upwind Sailing

Over View: In light air we are keeping the boat as powered up as possible and trying to go fast rather than point. We try to keep our weight centered in the boat and low, with a minimum amount of movement. As the breeze builds the primary focus is on the amount of helm. We do everything we can to keep the helm light with just a hint of weather helm. To maintain the proper helm, through a given tune range, we will adjust the crew weight (hiking), backstay, traveler and jib leads to balance the helm.

Mainsail Trim / Halyard

Adjust halyard tension to keep the draft (deepest part) of the sail at 45-50%. You will have wrinkles in luff in winds to about 12knots TW . Basically keep tightening the luff as the breeze builds.

Mainsail Trim / Cunningham

Set your halyard tension to the lulls for the beat and adjust your luff tension with the cunningham as the breeze changes on the beat. We use no cunningham below 10knots and snug to remove the wrinkles in 10-20 knots. Above 20knots apply firmly. If the wind build consistently remember that your halyard will have to be tighter on the next upwind.

Mainsail Trim / Sheet Tension

We design the sail so you can trim hard with out it closing the top too quickly. Keep the top batten parallel with the boom and the top telltale flying. When you are at full speed you can trim a bit harder to get the top telltale to stall. In light air with lump conditions open this up a bit, maybe have the top batten 5 degrees open and always let the top telltale fly 50% off the time. In heavier air as we depower we will again allow the top to open and the top telltale will always be flying.

Mainsail Trim / Traveler

Keep the boom on centerline until you have to depower. In light air we pull the traveler all the way to weather and adjust the sheet to keep the boom on centerline. Progressively lowering the traveler as the breeze build to balance the helm and heal of the boat. We never drop the traveler below the leeward seat.

Mainsail Trim / Backstay

This is not the quickest tool on your boat so we will have to use it as a general trim adjuster. Make sure you have a batten taped to the cylinder to record your settings for the next beat. In light air keep it just loaded with the slack out.  If your mast is set correctly you should not invert the main, which you will see by wrinkles forming from the clew up towards the middle luff. If this appears, your mast butt may be too far aft.  Make sure to tighten cunningham as you use heavy backstay to keep the draft forward in the sail.

Mainsail Trim / Outhaul

In light air we have the outhaul eased about one inch in flat water and 2 in lump. Once the crew is fully hiking we tighten just to close the shelf foot.  In heavy air crank it hard.

Mainsail Trim / Vang We never really use the vang upwind. In very light air you might have to have a little tension to not over twist the leech, but the rest of the time, while sailing upwind, we have the vang control just slack.

Mainsail Trim / Leech & Foot Lines

Only use these to remove flutter and remember as the breeze lightens ease them off.

Jib Trim / Jib Halyard

The jib halyard is very important and frequently forgotten on these furling boats. Unlike the main, the halyard will not have a s large effect on the draft of the sail. It is pretty fixed on a laminate sail. In light air ease the halyard until you have noticeable wrinkles in the luff. This will move the draft aft and increase fullness for power. As the breeze builds, increase halyard tension, to, just, remove the wrinkles, until very firm in the heaviest wind. Equally important is to release the tension if the wind drops.

Jib Trim / Jib Lead

Set the jib lead to have 9 track holes showing in front of the car. This is your base position. Mark the track at this point. When I go to the medium tune I will go back 1 hole on the lead. As the breeze builds we move the lead aft through a range of about 6 holes from light to heavy air. The jib lead is an effective method to depower. If I am caught at the top of a tuning range and the boat has too much helm, I will move the lead car aft along with tightening backstay, lowering traveler and tighten the halyards.

Jib Trim / Jib Sheet

In light air I trim to the leeward cabin top winch and in heavy air I cross sheet to the large primary winch. Run the sheet through the top check block for a better lead to the primary winch.  Your new Doyle Jib will have leech telltales. Trim the sheet until the top leech telltale just has a hint of break (10%). This is my base upwind trim position. This will also put the leech of the jib between 2 and 4 inches in front the lower spreader tip. Out of a tack or in slow speed conditions ease the sail to the spreader tip. When up to full speed in flat water we will trim a bit tighter to have the telltale breaking 25% of the time. To cross sheet you need to mark your jib sheets. I put a series of 4 marks,  on my jib sheets between 17 and 18 feet from the clew end of the sheet. I will use this as a trim guide while cross sheeting to the large primary winches, in breeze. These marks will be right at the weather winch and will allow repeatable settings from tack to tack without having to go down to the low side. For cross sheeting: the jib trimmer will tack the sail and grind it in to the conditions base setting, with the leech at the spreader tip. The main trimmer will then handle the fine tune trim.

Jib Trim / Jib Inhauling

I rarely use any inhaul. At best, in perfect conditions, we might just tighten the lazy sheet to pull the clew over the track, about 2 inches maximum. Any more just seems to stop.

Downwind Sailing / Mainsheet

Make sure to ease the main out enough as you go downwind. In light air you will sail higher angles and have it in more and as the breeze build you will ease it out.  I usually have a knot in my mainsheet at the maximum out position (boom just off the shrouds) so the driver can uncleat the main around the weather mark and let it run. In very heavy air only ease the sheet to put the boom out 45 degrees and adjust the vang to control the leech twist.  This makes jibing the boom much easier. You might also try pumping the vang, rather than the sheet, to help the boat surf down waves.

Downwind Sailing / Backstay, Outhaul & Vang

Ease the tension off the backstay and lock. I don’t like the backstay eased to the point of the cylinder flopping around.  In light to moderate air ease the outhaul until the foot of the sail is about 3 inches from the boom. I do not ease it in windy conditions. Adjust the vang to keep the top batten parallel to the boom in the lulls. Make sure to remember your halyard, backstay and outhaul settings for the next upwind.

Downwind Sailing / Spinnaker Sheet

Trim the sail to always have a slight curl in the luff (about 6-12 inches). Pay attention to the load on the sheet. When you get too far off the wind, pressure on sheet will immediately drop. A good trimmer will constantly communicate with the driver regarding the amount of load on the sheet.

Downwind Sailing / Tack Line

Adjust the tackline to keep the curl just above the middle of the luff. If it breaks high lower the tack, if the break is at the bottom raise the tack. Average tack heights:

under 8 knots / 0 inches 8-10 knots  / 6 inches 10-15 knots / 1 foot 15+ knots / 2 feet

Sailing Tips & Tricks

Upwind / Pointing

Go fast forward, never try to pinch a J105, it just stops. Better boatspeed through the water will help the keel and rudder provide lift and reduce leeway. Although your angle might not be as high the boat will be making less leeway and effectively sailing higher overall.

Upwind / Trim Fore and Aft

Keep the crew weight centered. In light air we have one crew in front of the shrouds. As soon as we are all hiking we have the crew aft of the shrouds and grouped together as much as possible. Downwind / VMG

When the tack line is eased and we are in running mode, I will steer to keep the tack line vertical. If it tips to leeward, I will head down and if it tips to weather I will head up to keep the tack line straight up and down. This will keep you very close to the perfect VMG downwind.

Downwind / Running Deep

The trimmer should always be easing the sheet to get the sail to rotate out in front of the boat. It is a common mistake to have the sail over trimmed and not rotated properly. Look around at the spinnakers on the boats close to you, if you are having speed problems, and try to match the trim of the fast ones.

Jib Halyard 95 ft  10mm Spectra DB (double braid) with eye splice attached directly to furler swivel shackle

Main Halyard 105 ft 10mm Spectra DB with headboard shackle

Spinnaker Halyard 105 ft 8mm Spectra with medium flush style snap shackle.

Mainsheet 85 ft 10mm Soft Spectra Braid with low friction ring for 20 ft 8mm 2-1 fine tune

Jib Sheets 45 ft each 10mm Spectra DB with eyes and soft shackle.

Mark sheet between 17 and 18 ft every 4inches for cross sheeting reference.

Spin Sheets 70 ft each 8mm Spectra DB with eyes. Use 12inch 6mm pigtail on every spinnaker clew and bowline to sheets.

Tack Line 40 ft 8mm Spectra DB with optional eye and soft shackle. I bowline mine.

Misc:  Traveler 30 ft 8mm, Reef 20 ft 6mm, Pole 35 ft 8mm low stretch yacht braid.

Contact Paul Beaudin for onsite clinics and racing talks.

J/105 Shoal draft

Sailboat specifications.

• Last update: 13rd March 2020

J/105's main features

J/105's main dimensions, j/105's rig and sails, j/105's performances, j/105's auxiliary engine, j/105's accommodations and layout.

Similar sailboats that may interest you:

Attention! Your ePaper is waiting for publication!

By publishing your document, the content will be optimally indexed by Google via AI and sorted into the right category for over 500 million ePaper readers on YUMPU.

This will ensure high visibility and many readers!

Your ePaper is now published and live on YUMPU!

You can find your publication here:

Share your interactive ePaper on all platforms and on your website with our embed function

J105 Owner Manual 2012.pdf - J/Owners

• maintenance
• jowners.org

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 2 <br />

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> <strong>Manual</strong> <br />

HIN:……………………………………. <br />

Yacht Name:…………………………………… <br />

<strong>Owner</strong> Name:…………………………………… <br />

COPYRIGHT © J/BOATS, INC., 2012

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 3 <br />

Table of Contents <br />

Introduction ...................................................................................................................................................................... 4 <br />

Specifications .................................................................................................................................................................... 6 <br />

Important Contacts ........................................................................................................................................................ 7 <br />

Getting Started ................................................................................................................................................................. 8 <br />

Commissioning Checklist ......................................................................................................................................... 13 <br />

Tuning The Rig .............................................................................................................................................................. 14 <br />

IMPORTANT Commissioning Follow-­‐up ........................................................................................................... 15 <br />

Diagrams, Layouts, & Schematics .............................................................................................................. 16 <br />

Running Rigging & Deck Hardware Layout ........................................................................................... 16 <br />

Mainsheet & Cunningham Diagram .......................................................................................................... 17 <br />

Steering System ................................................................................................................................................. 18 <br />

Fuel & Exhaust System ................................................................................................................................... 19 <br />

Thru-­‐Hull & Seacock Locations ................................................................................................................... 20 <br />

<strong>Manual</strong> Fresh Water System ........................................................................................................................ 21 <br />

Head & Holding Tank Schematic ................................................................................................................ 22 <br />

12 V DC Wiring System ................................................................................................................................... 23 <br />

Battery Wiring System .................................................................................................................................... 24 <br />

Lightning/Bonding System ........................................................................................................................... 25 <br />

Engine System ............................................................................................................................................................... 26 <br />

Drive Train ...................................................................................................................................................................... 26 <br />

Fuel System .................................................................................................................................................................... 27 <br />

Cooling System .............................................................................................................................................................. 28 <br />

Exhaust System ............................................................................................................................................................. 28 <br />

General Hints to Avoid Problems ......................................................................................................................... 28 <br />

Engine Safety Precautions ....................................................................................................................................... 29 <br />

Bleeding the Engine .................................................................................................................................................... 30 <br />

Starting Up the Engine ............................................................................................................................................... 30 <br />

Shutting Down the Engine ....................................................................................................................................... 31 <br />

Fueling .............................................................................................................................................................................. 31 <br />

Engine Maintenance ................................................................................................................................................... 32 <br />

Plumbing Systems ....................................................................................................................................................... 33 <br />

<strong>Manual</strong> Fresh Water ................................................................................................................................................... 33 <br />

Thru-­‐Hulls & Seacocks .............................................................................................................................................. 33 <br />

Pump Systems ............................................................................................................................................................... 33 <br />

Head System .................................................................................................................................................................. 34 <br />

Electrical System .......................................................................................................................................................... 36 <br />

Safety ................................................................................................................................................................................. 37 <br />

Lightning Protection ................................................................................................................................................... 38 <br />

Galley Stove .................................................................................................................................................................... 39 <br />

Maintenance Tips ........................................................................................................................................................ 39 <br />

Annual Maintenance Checklist ............................................................................................................................... 43 <br />

Storage Tips ................................................................................................................................................................... 44 <br />

APPENDIX A -­‐ Best Practices -­‐ Boat Inspection .............................................................................................. 46 <br />

APPENDIX B -­‐ ABS (Dated) Guidelines for Survey After Construction ................................................ 51 <br />

APPENDIX C -­‐ US Watercraft Warranty ............................................................................................................. 52

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 4 <br />

Introduction <br />

WELCOME ABOARD and welcome to the J/Boats family of owners. Your boat is designed and <br />

engineered to be the strongest, best performing, easiest-­‐to-­‐use, and most comfortable sailing <br />

boat of its type. <br />

Sailing involves risk, most of which can be minimized with advance planning and proper <br />

seamanship. The J/105 owner should become proficient in all aspects of handling the vessel <br />

under sail and power, and be well versed with emergency procedures before undertaking any <br />

offshore passage. The owner is further responsible for any required state registration or federal <br />

documentation, accident reporting, outfitting the vessel with proper safety equipment, and the <br />

safe operation of the vessel. Your J/Boats Dealer will be happy to refer you to Boating Safety <br />

Courses or other seminars available. <br />

This owner manual is furnished for your benefit, but shall in no way be construed as any sort of <br />

warranty or contract, express or implied, creating any obligation on the part of J/Boats, Inc., with <br />

respect to any fact or facts or any advice or opinions contained herein. The sole and exclusive <br />

warranty of the product is the US Watercraft Warranty described in the appendix hereto and on <br />

the Warranty Card furnished with the yacht. <br />

J/BOATS, INC. HEREBY DISCLAIMS ANY AND ALL WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, <br />

INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR ANY IMPLIED <br />

WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY. <br />

Please be sure to complete the warranty card provided with the boat and mail to US Watercraft.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 5 <br />

This manual has been compiled to help you to operate your J/105 with safety and pleasure. It <br />

contains details of the J/105 the equipment supplied or fitted, its systems and information on its <br />

operation. Please read it carefully, and familiarize yourself with the craft before using it. <br />

This owner's manual is not a course on boating safety or seamanship. If this is your first boat, or <br />

you are changing to a type of boat you are not familiar with, for your own comfort and safety, <br />

please ensure that you obtain handling and operating experience before "assuming command" of <br />

the boat. Your dealer or national sailing federation or yacht club will be pleased to advise you of <br />

local sea schools, or competent instructors. <br />

This owner's manual is not a detailed maintenance or trouble shooting guide. In case of difficulty, <br />

refer to the boat dealer, builder or its representative. Always use trained and competent people <br />

for maintenance, fixing or modifications. Modifications that may affect the safety characteristics <br />

of the craft shall be assessed, executed and documented by competent people. The boat builder <br />

cannot be held responsible for modifications he has not approved. <br />

NOTE: Any change in the disposition of the masses aboard may significantly affect the stability, <br />

trim and performance of your boat. Users of this boat are advised that: <br />

• All crew should receive suitable training; <br />

• Bilge water should be kept to a minimum; <br />

• Stability is reduced by any weight added high up; <br />

• In rough weather, hatches, lockers and doorways should be closed to minimize the risk of <br />

flooding; <br />

• Stability may be reduced when towing or lifting heavy weights using a davit or boom; <br />

• Breaking waves are serious stability hazard. <br />

• In some countries a driving license or authorization are required, or specific regulations <br />

are in force. <br />

• Always maintain your boat properly and make allowance for the deterioration that will <br />

occur in time and as a result of heavy use or misuse of the boat. <br />

• Any boat – no matter how strong it may be, can be severely damaged if not used properly. <br />

This is not compatible with safe boating. Always adjust the speed and direction of the <br />

craft to sea conditions. <br />

• If your boat is fitted with a life raft, read carefully its operating manual. The crew should <br />

be familiar with the use of all safety equipment (harness, flares, life raft, etc.) and <br />

emergency maneuvering (man overboard recovery, towing, etc); sailing schools and clubs <br />

regularly organize drill sessions. <br />

PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SECURE PLACE, AND HAND IT OVER TO THE NEW OWNER WHEN YOU <br />

SELL THE CRAFT.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 6 <br />

Specifications <br />

MODEL .......................................................................................................................................................... J/105<br />

LOA ................................................................................................................................................ 10.51m (34.50')<br />

LWL ................................................................................................................................................. 8.99m (29.50')<br />

Beam ............................................................................................................................................... 3.35m (11.00')<br />

Draft ................................................................................................................................................... 1.98m (6.50')<br />

Ballast (Lead)........................................................................................................................ 1,542 kg (3,400 lbs.)<br />

Class Minimum Weight (see class rules) ............................................................................... 3,890 kg (8,576 lbs.)<br />

100% Sail Area .................................................................................................................... 53.60 sq m (577 sq ft)<br />

IM ................................................................................................................................................... 12.37m (40.60')<br />

ISP ................................................................................................................................................. 12.83m (42.1’’)<br />

J ...................................................................................................................................................... 4.11m (13.50')<br />

P .................................................................................................................................................... 12.65m (41.50')<br />

E ...................................................................................................................................................... 4.45m (14.60')<br />

Engine ................................................................................................................... Yanmar 3YM20, 15.3kw (21hp)<br />

Fuel Capacity* ............................................................................................................... 45.4 liters (12 US gallons)<br />

Engine Alternator ............................................................................... 60 amp standard Yanmar marine alternator<br />

House Battery Capacity ................................................................................... 90 amp hours, add’l 90 amp option<br />

Standard Propeller ..................................................................................... Martec folding prop 15” dia. x 14” pitch<br />

Battery Type ......................................................................................................................................... Deep-cycle<br />

Holding Tank Capacity ................................................................................................................. 45 liters (12 gal.)<br />

Water Capacity** ......................................................................................... 18.9 liter (5 US gallon) Portable Tank<br />

Hull & Deck Core Material ...................................................................................................... Baltek® SB50 Balsa<br />

Hull & Deck Molding Process ............................................................................................................. Hand Lay-up<br />

Hull Blister Warranty ................................................................................................. 10 Year: <strong>Owner</strong> Transferable<br />

Mast Height Above Water .................................................... 15.34 m (50’ 4”) not including masthead instruments<br />

* Fuel capacity may not be completely usable depending upon trim and loading of the craft and a <br />

20% reserve should be kept on board. <br />

** All water capacity may not be usable depending upon trim and loading of the craft.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 7 <br />

Important Contacts <br />

Dealer: .................................................................................... Phone: ................................................................................ <br />

Street: ...................................................................................... Web Site: ........................................................................... <br />

City, State, Zip: ..................................................................... E mail: ................................................................................. <br />

Marketing & Design J/Boats, Inc. 401-­‐846-­‐8410 <br />

PO Box 90 <br />

[email protected] <br />

Newport, RI 02840 <br />

Builder: US Watercraft 401-­‐682-­‐1661 <br />

225 Alexander Rd. [email protected] <br />

Portsmouth, RI 02871 <br />

Cushions: Ken’s Upholstery 401-­‐246-­‐1244 <br />

101 Narragansett Ave. <br />

Barrington, RI 02806 <br />

Canvas: Thurston Sails 401-­‐254-­‐0970 <br />

Tupelo Street <br />

[email protected] <br />

Bristol, RI 02809 <br />

Spars: Charleston Spar, Inc. 704-­‐597-­‐1502 <br />

3901 Pine Grove Circle sales@sparcraft-­‐us.com <br />

Charlotte, NC 28206 <br />

Hydraulics: Sailtec, Inc. 920-­‐233-­‐4242 <br />

2930 Conger Court [email protected] <br />

Oshkosh, WI 54904 <br />

Deck Hardware: Harken 262-­‐691-­‐3320 <br />

1251 E. Wisconsin Ave. [email protected] <br />

Pewaukee, WI 53072 <br />

Deck Hardware: Spinlock USA 877-­‐465-­‐6251 <br />

PO Box 2672 <br />

www.SpinlockUSA.com <br />

Newport, RI 02840

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 8 <br />

Getting Started With Your J/105 <br />

Generally, your dealer or commissioning yard will help you prepare your boat before launching. <br />

And in most instances they will undertake the entire commissioning job. They are experts in the <br />

field and are capable of completing most commissioning tasks. <br />

Before Proceeding <br />

Before you begin to assemble your new boat you should become familiar with the different sail <br />

control systems and associated hardware. All running rigging and loose deck hardware items are <br />

shipped from the factory in parts boxes complete with part inventory sheets. To help you <br />

properly install these items please refer to the rigging and hardware sections and diagrams in <br />

this guide. <br />

Commissioning Checklist -­‐ will help you double check that the J/105 is assembled properly and all <br />

systems and rigging are functioning properly. If a boatyard other than an authorized J/Boat <br />

dealer is performing the work, review this list with them to establish what needs to be done and <br />

by whom. <br />

Topsides -­‐ wash off all dirt and grime accumulated from delivery. Use only non-­‐abrasive <br />

cleansers on the gelcoat. Then apply a coat of high quality car or boat wax to prolong the life and <br />

sheen of the gelcoat. <br />

Bottom -­‐ Bottom preparation is critical to long-­‐lasting enjoyment. To ensure a professional <br />

finish, carefully review the paint manufacturer’s recommendations for preparing the bottom. Be <br />

sure that there is a healthy amount of epoxy primer (using paint manufacturer build-­‐up <br />

recommendations) to cover the keel PRIOR to final coating of bottom paint. <br />

Chainplates -­‐ are custom manufactured of polished stainless steel. Shroud chainplates are <br />

mounted directly to the main bulkhead. The backstay chainplate is bolted to a reinforced area of <br />

the transom. <br />

Toe Rails -­‐ toerails are included at the deck edge forward of the mast and in the cockpit for the <br />

helmsman aft of the wheel. <br />

Stanchions & Pulpits -­‐ are designed for proper offshore safety as well as to facilitate access to the <br />

boat. Optional are lifeline gates to port and starboard. The (3) standard stern lifelines are <br />

equipped with quick release Pelican hook fittings. All stanchions are 1” diameter stainless steel <br />

and are secured into their bases with machine set screws. <br />

Lifelines -­‐ The upper and lower lifelines are 5/32" 1x19 wire in accordance with ORC safety <br />

regulations. They run the length of the boat and are fastened at either end by stainless forks and <br />

turnbuckles. Each lifeline is clearly marked for easy installation. The installation is as follows: <br />

• Insert all stanchions into the sockets provided along the edge of the deck. Secure each <br />

stanchion in place by tightening the two screws in each base. We recommend that you <br />

dip the screws in blue Loctite or sealant before securing, so they don’t work themselves <br />

loose over time.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 9 <br />

• Install all lifelines without tightening the turnbuckles. Remove the eyes at the ends of the <br />

lifelines and thread them through the stanchions. If the boat is equipped with the <br />

optional lifeline pads, thread the lifeline through these prior to attaching to the stern rail. <br />

• Finish off the job by tightening the turnbuckles, and taping off the turnbuckle “split rings” <br />

(or cotter pins) for a secured finished appearance. <br />

Skylight Ventilation Hatches -­‐ are made of extruded anodized aluminum and scratch-­‐resistant <br />

acrylic cover. The hatch comes equipped with a ventilation position and 180 degree articulation. <br />

Fixed Ports & Optional Opening Ports -­‐ are made with extruded aluminum frames and smoke <br />

colored acrylic. The optional opening ports can maximize interior comfort and cross-­‐flow <br />

ventilation. There are four fixed standard ports and two optional opening ports to replace the aft <br />

fixed aluminum ports. <br />

DO NOT PERMIT ACETONE OR OTHER HARSH CLEANSERS TO GET ON PORTS OR HATCHES AS THEY <br />

MAY DAMAGE THE FINISH & CLARITY OF SOME DECK HARDWARE. <br />

Deckhouse Handrails -­‐ Stainless handrails are standard for secure maneuvering on deck and ease <br />

of maintenance. <br />

Winches -­‐ Standard winches are aluminum self-­‐tailing models from Harken. The location of these <br />

winches facilitates sailing with one or two aboard. Each is geared to match the load requirements <br />

of the specific task. <br />

Standard Steering System <br />

The steering system is carefully engineered to provide finger-­‐tip control. This is achieved by <br />

utilizing high quality Jefa rudder bearings. The rudder itself is made of unidirectional glass, with <br />

two molded halves bonded together, and a highly reinforced fiberglass shaft. It's engineered to <br />

withstand tremendous shear loads for storm conditions. <br />

Standard Tiller -­‐ is a molded, composite part bolted to a custom stainless steel tiller head mounted <br />

to the top of the rudder shaft. The Spinlock adjustable hiking stick is attached on the forward <br />

end of the tiller to enable the helmsman improved visibility sitting further outboard. <br />

Optional Wheel Steering System <br />

Pedestal & Wheel -­‐ is custom molded fiberglass. Inside the "compass cowl" is a standard Lewmar <br />

sprocket that is connected to a chain and 7x19 wire to the custom aluminum quadrant. <br />

Adjustment to this linkage is achieved by a set of turnbuckles connected to the steering wire. <br />

These can be accessed through the lazarette locker to starboard of the rudder post. Wheel is a <br />

Lewmar wheel with an elkhide cover. <br />

Rudder Stock Seal -­‐ is located at the top of the lower rudder bearing. It is a simple flexible boot <br />

type design that prevents water from entering the hull. If tiller steering is installed, the fiberglass <br />

rudder tube is continuous between the hull and the deck.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 10 <br />

Emergency Tiller -­‐ is installed by removing the access plate, and placing the base of the tiller over <br />

the head of the rudder stock. Fit the emergency tiller NOW to see how the system works BEFORE <br />

you get caught in a situation where you may not have time! <br />

Before Launching -­‐ check the system of cables, quadrant, and sheaves to ensure they are working <br />

smoothly. If the steering seems loose, tighten the turnbuckles by hand and re-­‐pin them. Beware <br />

that you do not over-­‐tighten the cables. Please note that your steering should be checked <br />

periodically for "tightness" and for presence of properly bent cotter-­‐pins. <br />

Rigging Systems <br />

The running and standing rigging items supplied with your boat are designed for efficiency. A <br />

wealth of racing and cruising experience has gone into the deck layout to make sailing and boat <br />

handling safe and easy to handle by a couple or a racing crew. <br />

The most unique system on your J/105 is the bow sprit system for the asymmetric spinnaker. <br />

We believe this system is a major improvement over conventional systems, so let's start by <br />

explaining how it works! <br />

Carbon Fiber Bow Sprit -­‐ The carbon fiber bow sprit is custom made and is designed to withstand <br />

the loads associated with the class asymmetric spinnaker without any additional support. The <br />

pole consists of a carbon tube faired smooth and finished with a clear Awlgrip high gloss paint, <br />

and two end fittings. The forward end fitting has a "U" bolt which serves as the attachment point <br />

for the tackline/snuffer block. The aft end fitting houses all hardware necessary for the adjuster <br />

line and shock cord retrieval system. <br />

Bow Sprit Launching Line -­‐ The control line to pull out the bow sprit is designed to be adjusted <br />

without leaving the cockpit. The line is dead-­‐ended to the outboard pad eye on the forward most <br />

bulkhead in the forepeak. The line then leads through the thru-­‐pole blocks on the aft end fitting <br />

of the carbon fiber pole (be sure the "U" bolt on the other end of the pole is up), forward through <br />

a block on the inboard padeye on the forepeak bulkhead, then under deck through the bullseye <br />

fairleads, the main bulkhead, and finally to the cam cleat mounted on the aft side of the cabin top <br />

to starboard <br />

Asymmetric Shock Cord Retrieval System -­‐ The shock cord system allows the pole to automatically <br />

retract when you uncleat the control line. Set up as follows: attach one end of shock cord to the <br />

pole end fitting pad eye, lead through the Harken double block mounted on padeye on the <br />

hanging locker bulkhead, then lead cord through the bullseye on the bottom of the pole end <br />

fitting to the forward single Harken block, back through the bullseye, around the becket of the aft <br />

block, and secured to the back end of the pole. You may need to experiment once or twice to get <br />

the appropriate tension on the shock cord. It should be relatively easy to extend the pole fully, <br />

and when released, should quickly retract into the boat. If you do not already have a preventer <br />

line, put a knot in the cockpit control line behind the cam cleat (in the cockpit) to prevent the <br />

sprit from banging into the bulkhead when released. <br />

Harken Headsail Furling -­‐ The Harken Unit 1 furler is provided with the boat standard and <br />

requires assembly prior to installing the mast. A complete instruction manual is included with <br />

this hardware detailing the proper procedure. The pin-­‐to-­‐pin headstay length necessary to <br />

complete this task for the J/105 is 12929mm or 42’ 5”. The provided pre-­‐feeder should be lashed <br />

and taped halfway between the feeder gate and the lower extrusion leg.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 11 <br />

Mast -­‐ Rigging the J/105 mast is a common procedure, and best handled by a qualified marine <br />

rigger. All spreaders, shrouds, and halyards are installed and properly taped and secured. Be sure <br />

all mast related electronics and wind indicators are properly wired and installed prior to <br />

stepping the mast. After stepping the mast it is VERY IMPORTANT to properly brace the mast <br />

within the mast collar PRIOR to sailing with the provided Pre-­‐Molded Spartite mast wedge. We <br />

also recommend that a small cord is tied and taped approx. 24” above the lower spreader <br />

between the intermediate shroud and upper shroud if you plan to sail with any type of spinnaker. <br />

Simply tie this line to each shroud (allowing for some slack) and tape ends over with rigging tape. <br />

This prevents the spinnaker (during a take-­‐down) from potentially dropping into the V that is <br />

formed at the lower spreader between these shrouds. <br />

Hydraulic Backstay -­‐ The J/105 is equipped with an integral hydraulic backstay to help you fine <br />

tune your rig and sails for optimum performance. This hydraulic unit is simple to operate, easy <br />

to maintain, and highly reliable. The cylinder is affixed to the backstay tang on the transom and <br />

to the backstay. In order to attach the backstay, you must pull out the SS shaft and fully extend it. <br />

Boom -­‐ Run the reef lines so the red line (port) is led through the port sheaves and the green line <br />

(starboard) is led through the starboard sheaves at both the outboard end and the gooseneck. <br />

The starboard reef doubles as the cunningham. <br />

Boom Vang -­‐ The standard boom vang is a mechanically operated spring loaded boom vang with a <br />

block and tackle purchase system. This vang system allows for quick and easy adjustment and <br />

also acts as a boom topping lift. The vang is affixed to the vang plate welded underneath the <br />

boom and to the mast at the vang gooseneck located just above the mast collar. See the vang <br />

operating instructions for how to adjust the internal spring for best results. <br />

Sail Control Systems <br />

After stepping the mast and connecting the boom, vang, roller-­‐furler, and integral backstay, rig all <br />

halyards and the remaining sail control systems on deck. <br />

Main Halyard -­‐ exits the mast on the port side, runs through a turning block at the mast collar, <br />

through the inboard port organizer block and then aft through the port double stopper (inboard <br />

hole) and finally to the halyard winch. The tail end is stored in the supplied line bag to be <br />

mounted outboard and forward of the stopper. <br />

Jib Halyard -­‐ exits the mast to port, leads through the forward mast base block, aft to the outboard <br />

sheave on the organizer block, through the outboard stopper hole, and store tail in line bag. <br />

Spinnaker Halyard -­‐ exits the mast to starboard and leads to the outboard sheave and stopper. <br />

Mainsheet Traveler -­‐ is a Harken low friction system. The 3:1 purchase system on each side <br />

controls a Harken Windward Sheeting Car mounted on midrange track (see diagram). <br />

Outhaul -­‐ is adjusted at the cleat on the underside of the boom and comes pre-­‐assembled. <br />

Cunningham -­‐ The cunningham doubles as the starboard reef line. To set it up as a cunningham <br />

simply tie a knot at the boom end tail of the reef line. The line leads forward to the sheave at the <br />

gooseneck, up to the cunningham block/hook back down through a bullseye on the mast, down <br />

to the mast base block and aft to the inboard stopper.(see diagram). To use the continuous reef

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 12 <br />

system simply run the boom end tail through the clew reef grommet, back down around the <br />

boom and tie a bowline. <br />

Mainsheet -­‐ is a 24:1 system with a 6:1/4:1 set-­‐up (see diagram). The system is designed to allow <br />

easy adjustments of the mainsheet. The location of the traveler also facilitates single-­‐handed <br />

sailing and adjustments. The fixed centerline cleat base rotates to port and starboard for a <br />

proper lead. Be sure to put a "stopper knot" like a figure-­‐eight at the end of the mainsheet. <br />

Jib Sheet -­‐ is continuous and attaches to the roller-­‐furler headsail by a simple knot, leads to the jib <br />

block on the track, aft to the lower sheave of the double turning block on the rail and finally to <br />

the primary winch. <br />

Spinnaker Sheets -­‐ lead from the clew of the spinnaker aft outside the lifelines through the <br />

spinnaker sheet blocks (shipped loose) turning forward to the upper sheave of the double <br />

fairlead blocks along the rail and then to the primary cockpit winches or secondary cabin-­‐top <br />

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 13 <br />

Commissioning Checklist <br />

Pre-Launch<br />

___ Read equipment owner manuals<br />

___ Pre-rig mast and check installation of:<br />

• halyards<br />

• blocks<br />

• electronics<br />

• shrouds<br />

• spreader end chafe guards<br />

• shroud spinnaker protection<br />

• lifeline pins<br />

• Mast Boot<br />

___ Pre-rig boom<br />

___ Bottom painted or touched up<br />

___ Check propeller/strut/zinc<br />

___ De-winterize engine and check status of:<br />

• engine oil/ filter<br />

• coolant level<br />

• transmission fluid level<br />

• water intakes/filter<br />

• fuel lines/filter<br />

___ Check battery charge<br />

___ Check all hose clamps, tighten as required<br />

___ Close all seacocks<br />

___ Wire tie wooden plugs near all thru-hulls<br />

Steering System (Wheel)<br />

___ Attach Wheel<br />

___ Check steering cable tension<br />

___ Test fit emergency tiller<br />

___ Check rudder stops<br />

Launch<br />

___ Check for leaks<br />

___ Check seacocks<br />

___ Check stuffing box<br />

Engine Start<br />

___ Read engine owner’s manual<br />

___ Open raw water intake seacock<br />

___ Check fuel<br />

___ Start engine<br />

___ Check exhaust for cooling water flow<br />

___ Check oil press., water temp., charging gauges<br />

___ Check transmission- forward/reverse<br />

Step Mast<br />

___ Locate mast step in middle of range and tighten bolts.<br />

___ Hoist spar and lower into boat<br />

___ Attach headstay to stemhead fitting<br />

___ Attach backstay and cylinder to backstay plate<br />

___ Attach all shrouds and hand tighten<br />

___ Install mast wedges and boot<br />

___ Connect mast junction box wires<br />

Rigging<br />

___ Install boom<br />

___ Lead all halyards to stoppers on cabin top<br />

___ Rig reef lines<br />

___ Install and connect boom vang<br />

___ Dock tune spar per tuning guide<br />

___ Rig bow sprit launching guide<br />

Loose Gear<br />

___ Fenders and lines<br />

___ Dock lines<br />

___ Winch handles<br />

___ Ignition/boat keys<br />

___ Bilge pump handle<br />

___ Mast wedges ready<br />

___ Double-check sling locations and mark<br />

___ Anchor, chain and rode<br />

___ Fire extinguishers installed<br />

___ First aid kit<br />

___ Coast Guard Required Safety Gear<br />

Systems Check<br />

___ Fill fuel tank<br />

___ Check operation of electrical systems and pumps<br />

___ Check sailing electronics<br />

Trial Sail<br />

___ Raise and lower sails to check for fit<br />

___ Monitor engine performance and check stuffing box<br />

___ Check bilge for leaks<br />

___ Check reef points and lines<br />

___ Check for steering cable stretch (wheel only)

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 14 <br />

Tuning the J/105 Rig <br />

Following is a general guide to tuning your J/105 mast. Please consult your sailmaker for “fine-­tuning”<br />

the mast to match the sails. <br />

With the standard length J/105 headstay and the mast step situated in the middle, the mast rake <br />

(as measured from the back of the mast at deck level to a plumb on the main halyard) should be <br />

approximately 30 inches. Several owners have opted to install an additional toggle at the top of <br />

the headstay, and then shorten the drum turnbuckle so to lower the drum as close as possible to <br />

the deck. According to J/105 Class Rule 7.4 “the headstay system length, measured between the <br />

centerline of the headstay pin on the mast to the intersection of the stem line and the sheer line <br />

at the bow, shall not be greater than 13035mm nor less than 12985mm. We recommend the <br />

maximum allowed headstay length for most conditions. <br />

The upper shrouds are attached to the outer chainplate hole. The lowers are connected to the <br />

inner hole. The intermediates are secured in the forward hole. Begin by hand tightening the <br />

shrouds, being careful to keep the mast centered aloft. Check alignment by hoisting a tape <br />

measure up the main halyard and comparing measurements to the port and starboard <br />

chainplates. When the top of the mast is centered, sight up the mast track to check for alignment <br />

of the lower part of the mast. Hand adjust the shrouds as necessary to center the mast. <br />

After the rig is centered and hand tight, we recommend additionally tightening the shrouds the <br />

following number of turns: <br />

Upper Shrouds: +11 turns <br />

Lower Shrouds: + 2 turns <br />

Intermediates: <br />

+ 8 turns <br />

You’ll find it easiest to tighten the upper shrouds if you pump the backstay down 2-­‐3 inches first <br />

to relieve load. Under sail, it is easiest to adjust only the leeward shrouds, then tack to adjust the <br />

other side. <br />

Once you have initially tuned your J/105, then go sailing in a brisk breeze, spending equal time <br />

on both tacks. Even though rod rigging is the lowest stretch material possible, you’ll still see a <br />

little loosening after the initial breaking in period. Be sure to sight up the mast while it is under <br />

load to see if it remains in column.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 15 <br />

Important Commissioning Follow-­‐up <br />

The initial sea trial period, or the first 30 days after launching a new boat always requires <br />

important follow-­‐up by the owner including sail fit checks, rig tuning and adjustments, <br />

instrument and compass calibration, maintenance and systems checks, etc... Your dealer and <br />

their support staff and other local suppliers will help you with this process. It is imperative that <br />

the following areas of the boat are inspected and confirmed to be operating properly after the <br />

initial 30 days. <br />

30 Day Inspection List <br />

PROPELLER SHAFT ZINC -­‐ Inspection of the shaft zinc is very important in the first 30 days <br />

following launch. Accelerated zinc corrosion may indicate an electrical wiring problem onboard <br />

or stray current from a nearby boat. RAPID CORROSION OF THE SHAFT ZINC SHOULD NEVER <br />

BE IGNORED. IMMEDIATE ATTENTION IS REQUIRED BY THE OWNER & DEALER. Failure to <br />

respond to this important sign of galvanic corrosion may lead to severe damage to underwater <br />

metals. <br />

STEERING CABLES ON WHEEL-­‐SUPPLIED BOATS – Steering cables are known to stretch after <br />

initial setting and usage. The following technique is helpful for adjusting cable tension in the <br />

system. A top quality roller chain to wire steering system can be kept in “as new” sensitivity by <br />

keeping the wire at a correct tension. To check for proper wire tension, lock the wheel in position <br />

by using the pedestal brake, or by tying off the wheel. Cable tension is best when you cannot <br />

move the quadrant or drive wheel by hand with the wheel locked in place. Over tightening will <br />

greatly reduce the sensitivity of the system. When leaving your boat at her mooring or slip, make <br />

sure that your wheel is properly tied off. DO NOT LEAVE THE STEERING SYSTEM TO FREE <br />

WHEEL. <br />

MAST, SPARS, RIG & RIGGING – The standing rigging terminations will seat and the SS rod will <br />

stretch during initial sea trials. It is prudent to inspect all fittings, terminations, turnbuckles, <br />

halyards, and mast wedges, and to look for any signs of unusual wear after sea trials. Checking <br />

and adjusting rig tuning is also recommended. <br />

The following ship systems must also be tested for proper operation: <br />

• ENGINE, THROTTLE CONTROL & FUEL SYSTEM. <br />

• FRESH WATER SYSTEM. <br />

• HEAD SYSTEM. <br />

• MANUAL AND ELECTRIC BILGE PUMP SYSTEMS. <br />

Finally: <br />

• REVIEW PROPER SAFETY EQUIPMENT – confirm all required safety gear is onboard and <br />

in working order. <br />

• CHECK ALL LIFELINE TERMINATIONS & TURNBUCKLES – Confirm cotter pins in <br />

turnbuckles and set screws are secure in all stanchion bases. <br />

• RE-­‐VISIT & REVIEW COMMISSIONING CHECKLIST <br />

ANY PROBLEM AREAS IDENTIFIED ABOVE MUST BE ADDRESSED PROMPTLY.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 16 <br />

Diagrams, Layouts, & Schematics <br />

Running Rigging & Deck Hardware Layout

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 17 <br />

Mainsheet & Cunningham Diagram

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 18 <br />

Steering System

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 19 <br />

Fuel & Exhaust System

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 20 <br />

Thru-­‐Hull & Seacock Locations

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 21 <br />

<strong>Manual</strong> Fresh Water System

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 22 <br />

Head & Holding Tank Schematic

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 23 <br />

12V DC Layout

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 24 <br />

Battery Wiring System

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 25 <br />

Lightning/Bonding System

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 26 <br />

Engine System <br />

The engine and fuel system is engineered to be conveniently accessible for repairs and general <br />

maintenance. Located behind the companionway ladder, there is access on the aft sides (through <br />

the cockpit lockers) and in front of the engine from which important functions can be reached; <br />

including water strainer, fuel injectors, fuel filter, fuel primer, expansion chamber, and <br />

alternator. <br />

Before starting the engine read the engine manufacturer's owner's manual for proper break-­‐in <br />

and operating procedures. Once the engine is running, inspect it for any discrepancies, like oil <br />

leaking, excessive water leaks, or anything out of the ordinary. <br />

Drive Train <br />

• Engine Control Panel -­‐ is mounted in the cockpit. It contains the starter, stop button, <br />

warning lights, and gauges. The combination throttle/gearshift is mounted on the <br />

cockpit wall. Double-­‐check all mechanical connections between engine and on-­‐deck <br />

equipment. <br />

• Engine Bed -­‐ is constructed of highly reinforced fiberglass. This provides a superior <br />

mount over wood and is also rot-­‐proof. The engine sits on heavy duty rubber shock <br />

mounts to help isolate the engine vibration from the boat. Check to see that the engine is <br />

sitting correctly on them and the bolts tightly secured. <br />

• Neutral Safety Switch -­‐ the J/105 is equipped with a neutral safety switch and the engine <br />

will not start without the throttle control in a proper neutral or advanced neutral <br />

position. <br />

This is the complete system that propels your boat. It includes the following components: <br />

coupling, stuffing box, shaft log, shaft, strut, and the propeller. <br />

• Transmission -­‐ is attached to the aft end of the engine and houses the reduction and <br />

reverse gears. These gears generally need little maintenance, but the oil level should be <br />

checked periodically. <br />

• Stuffing Box -­‐ is aft of the engine where the propeller shaft passes through the hull. It is a <br />

waterproof housing consisting of a rubber "jacket" attached to the tube and a brass <br />

bearing with hose clamps. When the engine is running, check to see that intermittent <br />

drips of water appear where the shaft enters the stuffing box. If the drips are a <br />

continuous stream, i.e. more than one every ten seconds, you must tighten the <br />

compression nut on the forward end of the stuffing box. This requires two large pipe <br />

wrenches to tighten the forward nut over the aft "core nut." It should not get hot when <br />

running. <br />

• Propeller -­‐ is a MARTEC folding prop of high quality bronze alloy. Check to see that the <br />

blades on the prop open almost perpendicular to the shaft. The prop is simple to care for <br />

and can withstand years of hard use. However, there are a few easy precautions which <br />

can prolong its life:

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 27 <br />

o<br />

Coat it with an excellent silicone grease film. <br />

Check to see that the joints in the folding prop have a good coating of waterproof <br />

grease. <br />

Check that all cotter pins are bent over properly. <br />

Check that the blades are smooth. <br />

• Prop Shaft -­‐ is stainless and is supported at the inboard end by the shaft coupling and at <br />

the outboard end by the strut containing a rubber "cutlass bearing." Before launching <br />

attach a "shaft zinc" to minimize corrosion. The zinc should be replaced every time the <br />

boat is hauled. Check the "cutlass bearing" periodically for wear and tear. If it is loose, <br />

replace it. <br />

• Engine/Shaft alignment is set by the builder to ensure that the engine, shaft, stuffing box, <br />

and prop are properly adjusted to minimize engine vibration. If there seems to be <br />

excessive vibration, notify your dealer and have them investigate. <br />

Fuel System <br />

The Fuel System is located centrally in the boat for effective weight distribution. It consists of the <br />

fuel tank, fill hoses and caps; fuel lines and filters and the vent. Use only Diesel fuel in the system. <br />

• Fuel Tank & Line -­‐ run from underneath the port main cabin settee, under the cabin sole <br />

and up to the fuel primer pump. From there, fuel flows into the injectors. The tank is <br />

aluminum, baffled to prevent fuel slosh, and vented overboad. For a layout, please see <br />

the Fuel System diagram. <br />

• Fuel Level Gauge -­‐ is located on top of the tank. The gauge reflects level (height) of fuel in <br />

the tank, not the quantity. Try to maintain a minimum level of 1/2 tank filled at all times. <br />

• WARNING-­‐ IF YOU ARE MOTORING AND HAVE LESS THAN 1/3 TANK OF FUEL, BE <br />

CAREFUL OF HEELING THE BOAT TO PORT, OR YOU WILL RISK AIR GETTING INTO THE <br />

FUEL LINE. Familiarize yourself with the bleeding procedure instructions provided with <br />

the Yanmar paperwork. <br />

• Fuel Line Shut-­‐Off Valve -­‐ sits atop the tank at its aft end. Since diesel engines require <br />

bleeding after they have been deprived of fuel, it's important that the shut-­‐off valve be in <br />

the "ON" position (lever parallel to piping) anytime the engine is started. <br />

• Fuel Tank Access Plate -­‐ is atop the fuel tank and provides access inside to clean the tank <br />

or check the fuel gauge.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 28 <br />

Cooling System <br />

The J/105’s engine utilizes both a “closed” cooling system, in which a mixture of fresh water and <br />

antifreeze is circulated within the engine, and a “raw water” system, in which a heat exchanger <br />

supplies a constant flow of outside water, pumped in through the raw-­‐water intake, to cool the <br />

coolant mixture. <br />

• Coolant system -­‐ The filler cap (it looks like a radiator cap) for the freshwater-­‐and-­antifreeze<br />

cooling system is located on top of the engine manifold. Check the coolant level <br />

of the manifold and the coolant sub-­‐tank aft of the engine, (check when the engine is <br />

cool). When adding coolant, follow the engine manufacturer’s recommendations for the <br />

proper fresh water/antifreeze ratio. In climates where freezing may occur in winter, test <br />

the coolant mixture for freezing point. Add coolant as needed if the system is not drained <br />

for winter storage. <br />

• Raw-­‐water system -­‐ Located in the engine compartment, the J/105’s raw-­‐water strainer <br />

helps prevent clogging of the raw-­‐water cooling system and overheating of the engine. <br />

Check the strainer basket often to insure that the flow of cooling water is unimpeded. To <br />

clean: Ensure the engine water intake thru-­‐hull is closed. Check that the lever is <br />

perpendicular to the intake. Unscrew the top of the strainer and remove the basket from <br />

inside the plastic case. Wash thoroughly with water or replace with a new one if badly <br />

soiled. Reinstall the basket and be sure it is seated properly in the bowl. Then reinstall <br />

the lid tightly. <br />

Exhaust System <br />

The J/105 is equipped with a water-­‐injected water-­‐lift exhaust system that dissipates exhaust <br />

heat and acts as the exhaust muffler. If the flow of cooling water is interrupted and the engine <br />

overheats severely, the rubber hose coming from the engine exhaust elbow may melt. Always <br />

check this hose after an occurrence of overheating. <br />

Cooling water can accumulate in the bottom of the water-­‐lock muffler; when de-­‐commissioning <br />

your boat for the season, the muffler either should be drained by unscrewing the drain plug on <br />

the bottom of the muffler or antifreeze should be added so that residual water doesn’t freeze. <br />

If the engine does not start after a prolonged period of cranking over (starting), be sure to drain <br />

the pot or exhaust loop. Water accumulates here and may fill enough to flow back into engine <br />

manifold if engine does not start. <br />

General Hints To Avoid Problems <br />

• Monitor brightness of cabin lighting and charge battery as required by running engine. <br />

Batteries are charged when running the engine. <br />

• Stop engine with the start/stop switch. <br />

• NEVER turn battery switch to OFF position while engine is running as this could damage <br />

the alternator. <br />

• For best performance and fuel economy a cruising R.P.M. of 2,200 -­‐ 2,800 works well. <br />

Please refer to the Yanmar manual for recommendations. It is good practice to vary RPM

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 29 <br />

levels periodically when cruising under power for a long distance. Be sure to thoroughly <br />

read and follow the manufacturer’s manual for proper break-­‐in procedure for the <br />

standard Yanmar Diesel engine. <br />

• Do not run engine at full throttle for sustained periods, as breakdowns may occur. Most <br />

importantly, find an RPM that runs smoothly and follow the Yanmar guide. Avoid <br />

"vibrating" RPM speeds when possible. <br />

• Keep engine gear shift lever in "REVERSE" position while sailing to prevent possible <br />

"free-­‐wheeling" of prop <br />

• CAUTION: The J/105 engine is very quiet, and it is possible to forget that it is running. <br />

Before shifting the gear shift lever to lock the shaft for sailing, double check that the <br />

engine is turned off. <br />

Engine Safety Precautions <br />

Due to high temperatures it is recommended that after running the diesel for more than two <br />

hours you reduce speed to idle and allow excess heat to dissipate for five to ten minutes prior to <br />

shutting the motor off. <br />

The most common cause of trouble is contaminated or dirty fuel. Your boat is equipped with a <br />

primary fuel filter located in the engine compartment and a secondary filter on the engine. The <br />

wise skipper carries replacement filter cartridges. Familiarize yourself with the bleeding <br />

procedure for the engine and you should learn how to bleed it yourself. The procedure only <br />

takes a few minutes after you are acquainted with it, but can be exasperating to the uninitiated.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 30 <br />

Bleeding The Engine <br />

Reprinted from Mac Boring Service Bulletin: <br />

This bulletin contains helpful information for bleeding the fuel system of a Yanmar Diesel and <br />

other small diesels as well. Please post where your field service personnel can review. <br />

Since the presence of air in the fuel system anywhere between the fuel tank and the injector <br />

will lead to a no start or erratic running condition, always bleed the air from the system when <br />

the fuel system is disassembled, filter changed or if run out of fuel. <br />

1. Make sure fuel tank off is in "on" position. <br />

2. Bleed the air from fuel filter. Loosen the air bleed screw at the top of the fuel filter body <br />

and operate the manual handle the lift pump until the air bubbles completely expel in the <br />

fuel flowing from the filter. <br />

3. Bleed the air from the fuel return pipe. Loosen the connector bolt of the fuel return pipe <br />

installed on the fuel injector, and bleed the air by operating the manual handle of the lift <br />

pump. (If there is more than one injector, bleed the one at the end of the line). <br />

4. Bleeding the air from the fuel line -­‐ (line from the filter to the injector pump). Loosen the <br />

air venting screw at the injection pump and operate the manual handle of the lift pump <br />

until all the air bubbles are out. <br />

5. Bleed the air from the fuel injector. Loosen the nipple on the fuel injector side, set the <br />

throttle to half and the decompression lever to the decompression position and crank <br />

engine. When no more bubbles appear in the fuel flowing from the end of the injection <br />

pipe, re-­‐tighten the nipple. <br />

THIS BULLETIN IS FOR INFORMATION ONLY AND NOT AN AUTHORIZATION FOR REPAIRS <br />

Starting The Engine <br />

1. Turn the battery selector switch to ALL. Turn off all electronic instruments to avoid a <br />

voltage spike to the instruments while cranking the engine. <br />

2. Make sure that the throttle control is in neutral, or advanced neutral. <br />

3. Turn the ignition key to the ON position (if so equipped). The engine-­‐alarm buzzer will <br />

sound and the warning lights for low oil pressure and charging will light up. (The alarm <br />

and warning lights will continue until the engine starts or the key is turned off.) <br />

4. If the engine-­‐alarm is working correctly, continue to turn key. Release immediately when <br />

the engine starts. If the engine does not start in 10 seconds, turn off the key. Advance the <br />

throttle slightly (in neutral), wait 10 seconds, and repeat steps 3 and 4. <br />

5. When the engine starts, the oil-­‐pressure and charging warning light will go out and the <br />

engine-­‐alarm buzzer will stop. If they do not, stop the engine immediately.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 31 <br />

6. Once the engine starts, set the throttle at about 1,000 RPM. If all engine indications are <br />

normal, warm up the engine for 10 minutes. <br />

7. Briefly test the operation of FORWARD and REVERSE gears at the dock with the dock lines <br />

in place. <br />

CAUTION: If the engine does not start after a pro-­‐longed period (do not exceed 10 seconds at a <br />

time) of cranking, be sure to drain the water-­‐lock muffler and exhaust loop. ACCUMULATED WATER <br />

IN THE MUFFLER MAY FLOW BACK INTO THE ENGINE MANIFOLD AND DAMAGE THE ENGINE IF THE <br />

MOTOR IS CRANKED FOR A PRO-­‐LONGED PERIOD AND DOES NOT START. <br />

IMPORTANT: Check that a flow of raw-­‐water cooling water is exiting from the transom. If cooling <br />

water is not being discharged, the engine will overheat: shut down the engine immediately. <br />

Check that the raw-­‐water strainer basket is free of blockage. Check that the raw-­‐water engine-­intake<br />

valve is open on the seacock. If necessary, check underneath the hull to make sure that the <br />

raw-­‐water intake seacock is not blocked. <br />

Shutting Down The Engine <br />

1. Move the throttle to the IDLE (vertical) position. <br />

2. Run the engine at IDLE long enough to allow the engine to cool down. <br />

3. Push the button on the engine instrument panel until engine stops. <br />

4. When the engine-­‐alarm sounds, turn the key OFF. <br />

IMPORTANT: Do not use the ignition key to shut down the engine. Do not stop the engine with <br />

the decompression levers except in an extreme emergency. If decompression lever is used to <br />

shut down the engine, fuel will spray out and accumulate on top of pistons, creating a danger of <br />

explosion the next time engine is started. <br />

Fueling <br />

When taking on fuel, follow these safety precautions: <br />

1. Secure your boat to the dock using bow, stern, and spring lines. <br />

2. Turn OFF all mechanical and electrical equipment, including the engine, battery selector <br />

switch, cabin lights, and electronics. <br />

3. Remove the fuel-­‐fill deck plate plug; clean the threads of both the plug and deck plate so <br />

that no dirt falls into the filler opening. Place the fuel hose nozzle into the fill pipe. <br />

4. Fill the fuel tank slowly. Do not overfill the tank. Because marine fuel expands with an <br />

increase in temperature, fill the 18-­‐gallon tank to only 95% of its capacity. If you cannot <br />

see the fuel pump, ask the attendant or a crew member to call out the total gallons. <br />

IMPORTANT: If the fuel tank is overfilled, fuel will leak out the tank vent located on the <br />

transom. Be ready to contain and clean up any spillage immediately.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 32 <br />

5. After fueling, replace the fuel-­‐fill deck plate and clean any spillage. Check belowdeck for <br />

fumes and check the bilge for fuel leakage. If fumes or liquid fuel are present, correct the <br />

situation before proceeding. Open all hatches and ports to ventilate the boat. <br />

IMPORTANT: In the event of a serious fuel spillage, STOP FUELING IMMEDIATELY. Replace the <br />

fuel-­‐fill deck plate and notify the attendant. Wash all traces of fuel or source of fumes; ventilate <br />

the boat. Leave the fuel dock only when you are completely certain that a potentially dangerous <br />

condition does not exist. <br />

Engine Maintenance <br />

Check the engine, batteries, and engine mounts once a month. Ensure the engine is fastened <br />

securely to the engine mount frames and look for any problems, such as fuel or oil spillage. If you <br />

need help, consult a professional marine mechanic or a licensed Yanmar repair mechanic. <br />

Run the engine frequently and at occasional high speeds, even if it is not in gear. One reason why <br />

sailboat engines may burn out within a few years is that they are run infrequently and lubricating <br />

oil is not thoroughly and evenly distributed on all moving parts. Be sure to check oil and coolant <br />

levels often. If you have any doubts about the purity of the fuel you are buying, use a strainer to <br />

filter out water and dirt.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 33 <br />

Plumbing Systems <br />

General <br />

The plumbing systems in your J/105 consist of fresh water, manual and electrical bilge pumps, <br />

and a Raritan head (toilet). This section will describe their locations and how they operate. <br />

<strong>Manual</strong> Fresh Water <br />

• Water Tank -­‐ is made of polypropylene, is collapsible, and is simple to install. Simply <br />

attach the hose from the foot pump to the tank. <br />

• Optional Water Tank -­‐ Part of the Systems Group package, this 20 gallon tank is made of <br />

rotationally molded polyethylene. Entire capacity may not be usable depending upon <br />

trim, loading, filling and draining points. Connected to it are the following hoses: a) fill <br />

hose -­‐ located on the tank top and connecting to the deck water fill pipe; b) feed hose -­‐ <br />

located along the tank bottom connecting the water system to the manual pumps; c) vent <br />

hose -­‐ internal and leads under the sheer line into the bow compartment. <br />

Thru-­‐Hulls & Seacocks <br />

All Seacock fittings are Forespar Marelon. For safety reasons, we recommend that you attach <br />

with wire or wire-­‐tie an appropriate size tapered wooden plug in the vicinity of each of these <br />

fittings in the event of a hose or valve failure. The fittings each have valve-­‐handles. To reduce <br />

confusion, remember the long end of the handle indicates the direction of flow. Please refer to <br />

the Seacock and Thru-­‐Hull diagram for a complete layout of locations and sizes. <br />

Pump Systems <br />

Pumps are easy to maintain and just as easily forgotten...they always happen to seize up when <br />

you need them most. Consequently, take care to keep their screens clean and rubber <br />

gaskets/bellows working correctly. There is one manual and one electric bilge pump system <br />

installed standard in the J/105. Two pump intakes are located forward in the keel sump under <br />

the main cabin centerline floorboard. <br />

• <strong>Manual</strong> Bilge Pump: The manual bilge pump is installed on the cockpit wall and operated <br />

by opening the cover/handle and using an up and down manual pumping action. Bilge <br />

water exits the boat from the manual pump through the transom. <br />

• Electric Bilge Pump: is wired direct with an in-­‐line fuse to the battery switch, so it is <br />

always "on." This useful feature helps eliminate any accumulation of water in the bilge. <br />

The switch is located near the electrical panel. The switch has three positions: ON, OFF, <br />

and AUTO for self tending when you are not on the boat. Bilge water exits the boat from <br />

the electric pump through a hose that loops up to a siphon break and then to the <br />

overboard through-­‐hull fitting under the head sink. <br />

• Sink Drains empty directly overboard through a seacock fitting beneath the galley sink.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 34 <br />

Safety caution: <strong>Owner</strong>s MUST leave the three position pole switch on the bilge pump panel (located <br />

in the nav station area) in the AUTO position in order for the bilge pump to perform properly. <br />

Please refer directly to pump manuals and/or web site information for more about best practices <br />

and maintenance of this component. Finally, it is prudent seamanship to carry replacement parts <br />

for all onboard pumps. <br />

Warning the bilge pumping system is not designed for damage control. The combined capacity of <br />

the system is not intended to drain the craft in the case of accident or damage. <br />

Head System <br />

The J/105 is equipped with one certified Raritan PHII marine head which is capable of <br />

discharging effluents into the standard 45 liter (12 gallon) holding tank or overboard. The <br />

system is easy to operate and with correct usage and proper maintenance, will provide many <br />

years of use. IMPORTANT -­‐ <strong>Owner</strong>s should familiarize themselves with all local and federal <br />

regulations regarding proper discharge and avoid inadvertent discharge at all times. A Y-­‐valve is <br />

fitted to the discharge line in order to direct the discharge flow to either the holding tank or <br />

overboard. It is shipped from the factory bolted into place such that the flow defaults into the <br />

holding tank. <br />

Before operating the HEAD, ensure you have read its manual thoroughly and understand the <br />

proper procedures. Silly mistakes can cause severe “head” aches at the worst possible time!. And <br />

a word to the wise <br />

PLEASE TRAIN YOUR GUESTS ON HEAD OPERATION. NEVER ASSUME THEY KNOW HOW TO <br />

USE IT. <br />

The head is a large pump which takes in seawater and flushes waste into the holding tank or <br />

overboard. The water intake seacock is located under the V Berth, and the discharge seacock is <br />

under the head sink. Remember the open/closed positions on these thru-­‐hulls. It is good <br />

seamanship to close both the intake and discharge seacock when not in use. <br />

When seawater and effluent are pumped through the head, they’re pumped into the holding tank <br />

by the action of pumping the toilet handle. The waste discharge fitting on deck is provided so a <br />

Shoreside pump-­‐out station can empty the tank. Care should be taken not to overfill the holding <br />

tank as effluent can block the vent hose and may damage the tank... or worse, burst the hose. If <br />

the toilet is difficult to pump, check to see if the holding tank is overfilled. “When in doubt, pump <br />

it out!” A great resource for understanding and maintaining a marine head system is a book <br />

called “Get Rid of Boat Odors” by Peggie Hall -­‐ Seaworthy Publications. <br />

Recommended Head Cleaning Solutions: <br />

Holding Tank -­‐ Use fresh water and one gallon of white vinegar solution… flush out twice. There <br />

are also several holding tank treatment solutions available through local marine stores. <br />

Head -­‐ refer to the head owner manual for proper cleaning solutions and maintenance. <br />

Pumping a quart of fresh water type anti-­‐freeze through the head system and hoses will prevent <br />

the seals and equipment from cracking. The following hoses are connected to the tank.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 35 <br />

• Waste Discharge Hose from the head <br />

• Pump-­‐out Hose leading to the deck fitting <br />

• Vent Hose to vent the tank overboard. <br />

The holding tank must be pumped out before winter storage to avoid potential damage and the <br />

system shall be empty during storage at freezing temperatures.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 36 <br />

Electrical System <br />

The following section describes the electrical system aboard the boat, how it operates, where it <br />

leads, and how to avoid trouble. Please read this section more than once and refer to the <br />

electrical diagrams included in this manual. For wiring code information please refer to the <br />

color code diagram. <br />

Never: <br />

• Work on the electrical installation while the system is energized; <br />

• Modify the craft’s electrical system or relevant drawings: installation, alterations and <br />

maintenance should be performed by a competent marine electrical technician; <br />

• Alter or modify the rated current amperage of overcurrent protective devices; <br />

• Install or replace electrical appliances or devices with components exceeding the rated <br />

current amperage of the circuit; <br />

• Leave the craft unattended with the electrical system energized, except automatic bilge-­pump,<br />

fire protection and alarm circuits. <br />

DC Electrical System <br />

A 12 Volt DC electrical system is used throughout the J/105 for lighting and operation of pumps <br />

and various accessories. The J/105 is standard with one 12 volt 90 amp battery located under <br />

the cockpit aft of the engine. Optional battery capacity may be added within this locker. <br />

• Electrical Panel -­‐ controls electric distribution with circuit breakers and switches. The <br />

main wiring harness runs from the back of this panel. <br />

• Mast Wiring Terminal Box -­‐ is located on the upper portion of the bulkhead just inside the <br />

head to port. The mast wiring harness exits the mast just beneath the deck, and is wired <br />

directly into the D.C. system. The junction box is wired directly into the DC system <br />

through a terminal strip. Once the mast wiring is installed and mated at the junction box, <br />

be sure to test each function to insure proper operation. <br />

• Battery Switch -­‐ The battery switch is located aft on the starboard settee berth face. It <br />

turns access to the battery ON or OFF to the main panel and the engine. The standard <br />

J/105 comes configured with one battery, so select BOTH on the switch. The optional <br />

second battery enables full use of the switch and allows one battery to be reserved <br />

exclusively for the engine and the ability to double up the cranking amps for cold starting <br />

in the BOTH position. The engine alternator will only charge the battery selected by the <br />

switch, so it is wise to have the switch set to BOTH should you have the additional <br />

battery. <br />

• Alternator -­‐ The 60 amp alternator is attached to the engine and creates a charging <br />

current for the battery system when the engine is running. <br />

• Accessories -­‐ such as navigation instruments can be added to the electrical panel and the <br />

12V DC system. We recommend that owners hire a qualified marine electrician to install <br />

electrical components. Be sure all sensitive accessories are not only grounded properly <br />

but that proper fuses are run off the panel.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 37 <br />

Safety <br />

Fire Protection & Prevention <br />

Portable Fire Extinguishers <br />

This boat, when in service shall be equipped with at least two portable fire extinguishers in <br />

recommended locations below in addition to any required equipment as designated by local and <br />

government regulations. <br />

• Recommended Location 1: Starboard cockpit seat locker quickly accessible from cockpit <br />

& helm position. <br />

• Recommended Location 2: Outboard of starboard settee berth backrest cushion. <br />

• Type: Class B <br />

Servicing Of Fire-­‐Fighting Equipment <br />

The boat owner/operator shall <br />

• Have fire-­‐fighting equipment checked at the intervals indicated on the equipment <br />

• Replace portable fire extinguishers, if expired or discharged, by devices of identical fire-­fighting<br />

capacity, and <br />

• Have fixed systems refilled or replaced when expired or discharged. <br />

Responsibility Of Boat <strong>Owner</strong>/Operator <br />

It is the responsibility of the owner/operator <br />

• To ensure that fire-­‐fighting equipment is readily accessible when the boat is occupied, <br />

and <br />

• To inform members of the crew about <br />

• the location and operation of the fire-­‐fighting equipment, <br />

• the location of discharge openings into the engine space, and <br />

• the location of routes and exits <br />

Cautionary Notices To The Boat Operator <br />

• Keep the bilges clean and check for fuel and gas vapors or fuel leaks frequently. <br />

• When replacing parts of the fire-­‐fighting installation, only matching components shall be <br />

used, bearing the same designation or having equivalent technical and fire-­‐resistant <br />

capabilities. <br />

• Do not fit free-­‐hanging curtains or other fabrics in the vicinity of, or above, cookers or <br />

other open-­‐flame devices.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 38 <br />

• Do not stow combustible material in the engine space. If non-­‐combustible materials are <br />

stowed in the engine space, they shall be secured against falling into machinery and shall <br />

cause no obstruction to access into the space. <br />

Specific Warnings <br />

Never <br />

• Obstruct passageways to exits and hatches, <br />

• Obstruct safety controls, e.g. fuel valves, gas valves, switches of the electrical system, <br />

• Obstruct portable fire extinguishers stowed in lockers, <br />

• Leave the craft unattended when cooking and/or heating appliances are in use, <br />

• Modify any of the craft’s systems or allow unqualified personnel to modify any of the <br />

craft’s systems, <br />

• Fill any fuel tank when machinery is running, or when cooking or heating appliances are <br />

in use, <br />

• Smoke while handling fuel or gas. <br />

Lightning Protection <br />

The J/105 is grounded in accordance with ABYC and industry practice. The mast, shroud <br />

chainplates, stemhead fitting, backstay fitting, engine, and electrical system are grounded to the <br />

keel. In spite of this grounding, there can be no assurance that personnel or the boat will not <br />

suffer injury if the boat is hit by lightning. The following are suggestions only and in no way <br />

guarantee safety in the event of a lightning strike. <br />

• If possible, remain inside a closed boat during a lightning storm. Do not contact any <br />

metallic objects inside or outside the boat. <br />

• Avoid contact with any items connected to the lightning conductive system (mast, <br />

shrouds, etc) and especially in a manner to act as a bridge between them (mast to shroud, <br />

etc). <br />

• Avoid swimming during a lightning storm. <br />

• If the boat is mildly struck by lightning, check all compasses and electrical gear to <br />

determine that no damage or change in calibration has taken place. <br />

• Check all thru-­‐hull fittings, keel bolts, engine rubber gasket membrane, for leakage <br />

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 39 <br />

Galley Stove <br />

A 2-­‐burner non-­‐pressurized alcohol stove is part of the Systems Group Option and is in "ready-­to-­‐use"<br />

condition. It is significantly safer than older pressurized models and is a remarkably fast <br />

heating stove, nearly equaling the heating of home ranges. It can boil a 2 quart pot of water in 8 <br />

to 10 minutes. Engineered with high quality stainless steel, it will last for years with proper care. <br />

Be sure to read the stove manufacturer's instructions on use and the filling of its canisters. You <br />

will find it easy to use as long as you follow proper precautions. <br />

To begin stove operation, you must first fill the canisters with alcohol fuel. Inside the canister is <br />

a "wick-­‐like" material that absorbs alcohol. Once filled, the alcohol will last three to four hours. <br />

If the stove is not in use for a long period of time, place the rubber seal over the burner opening <br />

to reduce evaporation of the alcohol. <br />

Safety Equipment <br />

You can never be prepared enough for emergencies that may arise at sea. During commissioning <br />

of your J/105, triple check that you have all required safety gear and adequate spares aboard. <br />

Make it a policy to thoroughly brief any first time crew members with emergency procedures <br />

including man-­‐over-­‐board, fire, and sinking. Please contact your local U.S. Coast Guard office for <br />

up to date USCG safety requirements. <br />

IT IS THE OWNER’S RESPONSIBILITY TO COMPLY WITH ALL FEDERAL AND STATE REGULATIONS WITH <br />

RESPECT TO SAFETY EQUIPMENT; OPERATION OF THEIR VESSEL; AND SAFETY OF ALL PASSENGERS <br />

Maintenance Tips <br />

Even though modern construction has helped reduce upkeep, regular attention should be given <br />

to the maintenance of your boat. This includes the fiberglass exterior surfaces, the interior wood <br />

surfaces, and the mechanical and electrical systems. <br />

A well-­‐maintained boat will not only bring you years of enjoyment, but most importantly, will <br />

bring you greater personal pride and joy. <br />

Fiberglass/Gelcoat <br />

Apply a marine wax to the hull topsides at least twice annually to preserve the “factory fresh” <br />

appearance for many years. Be sure fiberglass surfaces are clean and free of salt before waxing. <br />

Abrasive cleansers should never be used for general cleaning as they can severely mar the shiny <br />

gelcoat finish. <br />

Bottom Paint <br />

Keeping your bottom clean is of paramount importance as it not only keeps off bottom growth, <br />

but maintains passage-­‐making speed. Even though you have applied anti-­‐fouling paint, take a <br />

swim once a month or so (or hire a diver) and scrub the bottom and propeller with a scrub brush <br />

or lightly abrasive sponge pad.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 40 <br />

Zincs <br />

The shaft zinc should be inspected for integrity. If it is severely pitted, replace it immediately. <br />

Remember it is a sacrificial anode to protect the propeller and shaft from electrolysis. It can <br />

deteriorate quickly, so inspect it frequently particularly if in a known “active” harbor. The split <br />

design allows replacement while the boat is in the water. Unusually rapid zinc deterioration may <br />

be a sign of other electrical problems. Proper inspection and immediate corrective action should <br />

be taken to identify and isolate the source of electrical current. Failure to do so may lead to <br />

damage of the propeller and shaft. <br />

Deck Hardware/Running Rigging <br />

Wash deck hardware frequently with fresh water to remove accumulated salt and grime. Salt is <br />

VERY corrosive and a healthy wash down after each day of use will help keep things looking <br />

great. Regularly wash down the jib sheets, spinnaker sheets, and other lines in fresh water. <br />

Check for chafe and turn non-­‐tapered sheets end-­‐for-­‐end once every year to more equally <br />

distribute wear. <br />

Check all deck blocks and also wash them with fresh water. Most ball-­‐bearing blocks need only <br />

hot water to cleanse them. On conventional sheave/pin blocks, wash off, disassemble, clean, rub <br />

a light waterproof lubricant on the center pin, and then reassemble. Use only lubricants as <br />

recommended by hardware manufacturers. <br />

Furthermore, check and lubricate the sheaves and blocks on the mast. Also, ensure the <br />

turnbuckles are clean and well lubricated. Without proper care they can “freeze up”. <br />

In general, it is handy to keep a spray can of an appropriate light lubricant in your tool kit for <br />

frequent squirts of blocks, shackles, mainsheet travelers, and other moving fittings. <br />

Winches & Rope Clutches <br />

Read the manufacturer’s manuals on winch and rope clutch maintenance. Winches are fine <br />

pieces of machinery that for the most part take little effort to maintain. However, all too <br />

frequently, they suffer neglect because no one can see how much they wear down or get dirty. <br />

Clean And Lubricate Them! It takes little time to disassemble and put back together. Note that <br />

the gears and bearings are lubricated with special winch grease. Pawls and pawl springs need <br />

only a light oil. Keep spare pawls and springs in a kit for replacement. <br />

Deck Hatch <br />

Hatches need lubrication of their hinges with a silicone grease once a year. Also check the seals <br />

to see they are not unduly cracked, or are losing their ability to seal correctly. To increase <br />

traction on the plastic hatch covers, some owners prefer to apply non-­‐skid tape. The foredeck <br />

hatch seals and hinges can see the quickest wear especially if the spinnaker is being actively <br />

hoisted and doused through this hatch. If you like to leave the spinnaker tack line, sheets and <br />

halyard rigged to the spinnaker while it is below, it is better to use the “vent” setting while <br />

dogging the hatch to reduce torque on the frame and reduce potential for premature problems.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 41 <br />

Cabin Ports <br />

The ports are made of acrylic and are highly impact resistant. However, avoid highly abrasive <br />

cleansers which can scratch them. Instead, use mild soap and water to clean ports. Avoid <br />

chemical solvents, notably acetone, which can "melt" the ports...i.e. smear its smooth finish. <br />

DO NOT PERMIT ACETONE OR TEAK CLEANER TO GET ON PORTS OR HATCHES AS THEY WILL <br />

DISINTEGRATE AND “BLUR.” <br />

Stainless/Chrome <br />

Salt is an extremely corrosive element and whenever possible owners should spray all stainless <br />

and chrome deck hardware with a healthy amount of fresh water after sailing each day. <br />

Hardware like the pedestal guard, stanchions, handrails, bow/stern pulpits, and winches can be <br />

treated with Never-­‐dull® or other light cleansers. After applying cleanser, polish to a gleam with <br />

a clean cotton rag. For more aggressive cleaning a product called Wichinox (made by French <br />

company Wichard) has been highly recommended for cleaning and protecting SS. <br />

Your steering system is the most important system on board your boat <br />

As with all mechanical systems used in the harsh marine environment, proper inspection and <br />

maintenance is required for long life and years of proper service. Systems that have not been <br />

maintained and lubricated properly may show signs of wear early and perform less than <br />

satisfactory. Therefore, it is important that all boats fitted with wheel steering systems get an <br />

annual inspection of the critical system parts and that routine maintenance guidelines are <br />

followed. <br />

Jefa Rudder Bearings & Gaiter <br />

Bottom Bearing -­‐ The bottom bearing doesn't need any maintenance except for a good hose down <br />

when the boat is taken out of the water. The main reason for this hose down is to remove the salt <br />

water out of the bearing housing so it can't crystallize. If the shaft rotates irregularly, it could be <br />

that some rollers have developed a flat side. <br />

The exchange of the rollers is quite simple: Lower the rudder out of the boat. Remove the thin <br />

Delrin ring holding the roller track. Now the rollers and roller track will fall out. Mount the new <br />

rollers. To ease this job one can apply a film of detergent (soap) to the inside of the bearing <br />

housing, so the rollers will stick (NEVER use any grease). Mount the bottom roller track again <br />

and clip-­‐in the newly supplied Delrin ring. <br />

Top Bearing -­‐ The top bearing doesn't need any maintenance. Unless the bearing is exposed (no <br />

deck cover present) one should yearly hose it down to wash away any sand and dust between the <br />

rollers and the housing. <br />

Gaiter -­‐ Gaiters should be inspected yearly for mechanical damage. Carefully inspect the complete <br />

gaiter surface if any cracks are present, especially around the clamps. If you don't trust the <br />

sealing capabilities of the gaiter any more, replace it with a new one. Gaiters can be supplied in <br />

unglued state, so the rudder shaft doesn't have to be dropped. Bend the new gaiter around the

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 42 <br />

rudder shaft, apply the specially supplied neoprene glue on the indicated area. Carefully press <br />

the surfaces together and let it dry for a while. Mount the clamps again. <br />

Fiberglass/Gelcoat/Formica <br />

Interior gelcoat surfaces should be cleaned periodically with non-­‐abrasive cleansers and smooth <br />

areas should be waxed. Formica should be cleaned with non-­‐abrasive cleaners. <br />

Wood <br />

On unfinished teak, scrub off the gray weathered look and dirt with water and a stiff scrub brush, <br />

then apply one of the many available teak cleaners. <br />

On oiled surfaces, additional coats can be easily applied with a foam brush or sponge. For an <br />

even finish the oil should be rubbed with a rag shortly after application. <br />

On varnished surfaces, consult your dealer or a professional as to the best procedures. It takes <br />

great care, time, and patience to do the job correctly. <br />

Bilges <br />

Bilges are painted with air-­‐dry gelcoat to prevent water permeation and accumulation of mildew. <br />

They should be washed regularly with strong solvents to keep them smelling clean and to <br />

prevent the fouling of bilge pumps.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 43 <br />

Annual Maintenance Checklist <br />

Running Rigging<br />

___ Check running rigging lines for wear at splice, turning<br />

blocks, etc.<br />

___ Inspect blocks and shackles for wear. Clean and<br />

lubricate or replace as necessary.<br />

___ Service winches, check for free spinning operation<br />

(bearings) and ratchet stop action (pawls).<br />

Deck Hardware<br />

___ Check lifeline integrity, stanchions, and pulpits.<br />

___ Check all cleats for signs of fatigue. Tighten fasteners<br />

or replace as required.<br />

___ Re-caulk chainplates. Remove stainless cover, clean &<br />

re-caulk perimeter.<br />

Steering System<br />

___ Consult Edson maintenance guide (OPTIONAL WHEEL<br />

STEERING).<br />

___ Check rudder for impact damage or cracks.<br />

___ Check rudder shaft play in bearing tube.<br />

Thru Hull & Seacocks<br />

___ Check seacock integrity, operation, and watertightness,<br />

Replace, reassemble, and lubricate as required.<br />

___ Check hose attachment and clamps.<br />

Electrical<br />

___ Disconnect power source when making repairs or<br />

adjustments to electrical systems.<br />

___ Check battery charge, terminal connections.<br />

___ Check electrical panel, breakers, and switch condition<br />

and operation; tightness of wire connections.<br />

___ Check running light operation.<br />

___ Check ground wire attachment to keel, mast step, thru<br />

hulls, and engine.<br />

___ Check seal of electrical solenoid valve and ensure it<br />

closes when switched to “OFF” position.<br />

Engine & Drive Train System<br />

___ Read engine owner’s manual maintenance guide.<br />

___ Check engine fluid levels and systems for leaks- shut-off<br />

controls.<br />

___ Check throttle action - start and stop controls, cable<br />

clamps, etc.<br />

___ Check exhaust system soundness, hose clamps.<br />

___ Check coolant system, hose clamps, intake, and filters.<br />

___ Check transmission shift lever action, control cables,<br />

clamps; fluid level and alignment.<br />

___ Check alignment of shaft, coupling, and prop<br />

attachment- key, nuts, and cotter pin. Also check shaft<br />

zinc.<br />

___ Check shaft log tube integrity, packing, hoses, and<br />

clamps.<br />

___ Check strut bolt attachment, cutlass bearing, and shaft<br />

bolts.<br />

___ Check all engine wire connections.<br />

Fuel System<br />

___ Check fuel tank and gauge, hoses, clamps.<br />

___ Check fuel fill hoses and connections.<br />

___ Check fuel filters.<br />

Keel<br />

___ Check keel bolt nuts for tightness. Do not arbitrarily<br />

tighten bolts unless you’ve experienced a severe<br />

grounding. If there is concern for leakage, consult your<br />

dealer or professional yard.<br />

Plumbing<br />

___ Check bilge pump function, electrical wiring, hose<br />

clamps, and strainer. Clean, disassemble, lubricate as<br />

required.<br />

___ Check head and holding tank hoses, clamps,<br />

connections, and valves.<br />

Water System<br />

___ Check water tank hoses, clamps, valves, connections.<br />

___ Check water filters.<br />

Mast & Standing Rigging<br />

___ Inspect all mast termination fittings and halyard sheaves<br />

and exits.<br />

___ Remove tape from spreader ends and clevis pins and<br />

inspect and re-tape

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 44 <br />

Storage Tips <br />

Many of the maintenance problems surrounding boats can be pinpointed during the end-­‐of-­season<br />

haul-­‐out. This is the time when a careful inspection will reveal the ravages of a long <br />

summer. If you live in colder climates, it is also the time to prepare the boat for what might be an <br />

even more brutal winter ashore. <br />

First, clean your boat as thoroughly as possible. Get the yard to use a high-­‐powered hose to clean <br />

off most of the growth before it dries onto the bottom paint. You may have to use a scrub brush <br />

and putty knife for heavy growth, like barnacles, and for areas around the propeller and shaft and <br />

underneath the keel. <br />

Rigging <br />

Sails and lines should be removed at the end of each season, rinsed thoroughly in fresh water and <br />

stored in a warm, dry place. This will prolong their useful life as mildew can affect even today’s <br />

synthetic materials. Most sail lofts offer a cleaning/storage service. <br />

Engine <br />

Check the engine owner’s manual for maintenance guidance during the season and for the <br />

specific haul out procedures necessary to winterize the engine. Fill fuel tank to minimize <br />

condensation. In the exhaust system, water can accumulate in the bottom of the muffler. This <br />

should be drained using the drain plug, or anti-­‐freeze added so residual water doesn’t freeze. <br />

Batteries <br />

It is preferable to remove the battery(ies) and store in a heated area, recharging periodically to <br />

maintain full charge status. If you are in warmer climates, it is possible to leave the battery <br />

aboard. Simply check once a month to ensure a full charge. <br />

Head <br />

Read the owner’s manual for specific maintenance procedures. Generally, you will want to drain <br />

all water and replace with an anti-­‐freeze agent. To maintain the lubrication of its internal seals, <br />

flush through a light oil. Again, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for winter <br />

maintenance. <br />

Pump bilges completely dry and use a strong cleaning solvent to eliminate odors and bacteria. <br />

Electronics <br />

Remove as many as possible to avoid condensation caused by the extreme rise and fall of <br />

temperature and humidity that come with winter.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 45 <br />

Interior & Ventilation <br />

Clean the cabin thoroughly with a damp rag, for any salt left behind will breed mildew. Clean out <br />

the head and sinks. Any paper items-­‐ books, toilet paper, and notepads-­‐ should be taken off so <br />

they don’t mildew. <br />

If a winter cover is used, it is good to leave the hatches cracked open to enhance air circulation. <br />

This helps prevent mildew. Also, remove boat cushions and store indoors. <br />

Exterior <br />

If storing outdoors, a winter cover is recommended. It can be a simple piece of canvas forming a <br />

tent over the entire boat or heat-­‐shrunk plastic. In either case, a tent-­‐like support structure is <br />

necessary to prevent pools of water and to assure proper air circulation. <br />

Ensure the entire deck is covered to prevent uneven discoloration of the gelcoat. <br />

Cradle <br />

It is critical the boat is adequately supported. The keel must rest solidly on the main beam and <br />

the vertical risers should merely stabilize the boat. If it appears that the boat is supported too <br />

much by the vertical risers, correct the problem…. as this could structurally damage the hull. <br />

Mast Storage <br />

Store masts on well-­‐padded supports and do not place any weights on them. Avoid tape on the <br />

mast surface as it leaves a difficult to remove residue. Wash all surfaces, sheaves, standing <br />

rigging with fresh water. If possible, remove all standing rigging, halyards and mast instruments <br />

and store indoors. For painted masts, it is usually NOT advisable to wrap the mast in plastic, as <br />

moisture can become trapped, and lead to premature paint blistering.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 46 <br />

Appendix <br />

APPENDIX A: Best Practices – Boat Inspection <br />

J Boats has compiled, with the help of several industry experts, the following “best practices” <br />

inspection, maintenance and use guide for J/Boat owners. We urge each owner to read carefully <br />

the recommendations, to proactively and periodically inspect all critical components of your <br />

boat, and to contact anyone in the J/Boats network of dealers, builders and class associations if <br />

you need any assistance. <br />

Inspection Overview <br />

Considering the typical high-­‐frequency use seen by many J/Boats, at a minimum, we recommend <br />

that owners have their boats inspected on an annual basis and that a professional survey be done <br />

every five years. An inspection should include a detailed review of the high-­‐load areas, such as <br />

the rudder and keel attachments, rigging terminals, structural bulkheads, keel floors, mast step, <br />

mast partners, steering systems, mast and boom fittings, lifelines, etc. Inspection should also <br />

include identifying any possible leaks, including thru-­‐hull fittings, as well as identifying worn <br />

rigging and hardware. Additional inspections/surveys should be performed immediately after <br />

any instances of grounding, collision, and/or extreme weather sailing. <br />

The American Bureau of Shipping (A.B.S.) calls for a detailed inspection every two years and a <br />

professional survey every 6 years (see Appendix B for details) following new construction. <br />

According to Carter Gowrie of the Gowrie Group, most insurance companies mandate a <br />

professional survey for boats at 10 years. A survey may indicate a structural or safety issue that <br />

an owner needs to address in order to continue insurance coverage. For boats that haven’t <br />

changed hands (which usually triggers a pre-­‐sale survey), it’s otherwise left entirely to the owner <br />

to determine when a survey should occur. <br />

Keels & Keel Floors <br />

Overview -­‐ One of the most critical areas of a modern, fin-­‐keeled composite boat is the keel and <br />

keel floor area. This is an area that absorbs incredible loads and enormous stress. <br />

Use Considerations <br />

Groundings -­‐ after any grounding or collision with any underwater object, soft or hard, be sure to <br />

carefully inspect the keel, sump area and keel floors for any signs of cracking or weakness. This is <br />

best handled by a qualified marine surveyor. Even a seemingly minor grounding can weaken the <br />

overall structure, particularly if left un-­‐repaired for any length of time and/or if the boat <br />

continues to sail without repairing. There have been cases where a moderate grounding revealed <br />

no visible damage (due to the bottom of the boat absorbing the impact and then returning to <br />

shape), only later to reveal the presence of fractured glass on the inner hull laminate just aft of <br />

the keel. Have repairs done by a professional yard with a follow-­‐up survey. <br />

Trailering/ Hauling/ Poppets -­‐ boats that are actively trailered can be subject to excessive stress <br />

and strain on the keel/hull joint. In fact, years of trailering alone can subject a keel/ hull joint to <br />

excessively sharp vertical accelerations that can cause significant wear and tear on any portion of <br />

the composite structure; including keel sump and keel floors.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 47 <br />

According to Triad Trailers, one should first load a trailer by placing most of the weight (80-­‐<br />

90%) on the keel as it sits in the trailer’s keel tray. Then screw each individual hull support up to <br />

the hull just until light contact is made. Do this for each of the six individual hull support stands <br />

(on the Triad Trailer). After all six stands are touching the hull release the lifting straps so the <br />

boat is now mostly on the keel with the hull support stands preventing the boat from tipping side <br />

to side. Adjust each hull support stand upwards towards the hull to a point where you are only <br />

able to spin the carpeted top on the hull with a good amount of force. After each hull support <br />

stand is properly adjusted tighten the set screw on each of the 6 hull supports. This set screw <br />

prevents the wing nut handle from vibrating down during travel. <br />

Be particularly careful when strapping a boat down to the trailer. It’s not uncommon at regatta <br />

venues to see boats quickly hauled and lowered onto their trailers, with little time to get the boat <br />

aligned and sitting properly on the poppets, then strapped down hard onto the trailer with <br />

powerful ratcheting webbing straps and then driven off. In short, the hull is being pulled down <br />

hard on top of the keel/sump and in a very short period of time is potentially subjected to <br />

excessive stresses and strains on the entire hull/keel/sump structure. If you have a bow-­‐stop on <br />

the trailer, use shorter strap runs (running nearly vertical) over the boat rather than long <br />

diagonal straps through the bow and stern rails. This reduces the possibility of trailer flex <br />

contributing to any excess strain. <br />

Docking & Mooring -­‐ care should be taken to avoid mooring or docking your boat in locations that <br />

can result in the keel being occasionally imbedded in the mud/sand/silt when at low tide or low <br />

water. A combination of the keel bulb imbedded with any sort of wave action against the hull <br />

can cause undue stress to the hull and structure. The same is true for boats that use special <br />

dockside hoisting systems to hoist the hull out of the water, while the keel remains underwater <br />

and unsupported. <br />

Maintenance Considerations <br />

Care should be taken to avoid having standing water in the bilge. Not only does standing water <br />

accelerate corrosion of wiring, fasteners and keel bolts over time, it ruins floor boards and <br />

interior woodwork. As the gelcoat/ paint ages in the bilge area, bilge water can eventually seep <br />

into the fiberglass laminate by way of pin holes in the gelcoat and weaken the fiberglass laminate <br />

structure. The process of hydrolysis can be initiated in the fiberglass laminate anytime there is <br />

ingress through cracks in the paint/gelcoat in the bilge. The process of hydrolysis is persistent <br />

and invisible-­‐ it's water that chemically degrades the quality and strength of the laminate over <br />

time. Bilges (all areas under the floorboards, not just the centerline bilge) should be cleaned <br />

thoroughly once per year and then every five years recoated with fresh gelcoat or epoxy paint to <br />

ensure proper protection. In northern climates, water turns to ice in the winter. If moisture gets <br />

into the laminate and freezes, this can rapidly accelerate deterioration in the laminate. The New <br />

Hampshire Materials Testing Labs website (www.nhml.com) has an informative article on <br />

hydrolysis, see Newsletter of May 1, 2006. <br />

In any cored hull, take special care to avoid having any fasteners penetrate the inner hull <br />

laminate. Water in the bilge area can easily weep through the fastener into the laminate and <br />

cause core damage. If you need to secure a fitting or wire tie to the hull, the best fastening <br />

method is to glue a piece of epoxy coated marine ply to the hull and then fasten into the ply. <br />

A growing trend amongst active one-­‐design racers is to use a dehumidifier to keep the inside of <br />

the boat dry. This extra step not only keeps the boat a little lighter, but helps everything from <br />

wiring, to woodwork, to sails, last longer.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 48 <br />

Standing Rigging -­‐ The general rule of thumb from Hall Spars is that standing rigging (whether <br />

wire or rod) should be replaced every 10 years, unless excess strain due to hard ocean sailing <br />

shortens this life. Fatigue can be in any form-­‐ sailing in extreme wind conditions, unnecessary <br />

flogging of loose leeward shrouds, corrosive environment. Any signs of a broken wire strand(s) <br />

indicate immediate replacement is necessary. Otherwise keep a close look out for corrosion or <br />

cracking in the swage fittings and turnbuckle threads. In southern coastal areas, with the high <br />

salinity and year round warm weather, rigging must sometimes be replaced every 5 years. Fresh <br />

water sailed boats will generally have a longer rigging life, but are still subject to fatiguing after <br />

years of stress. <br />

Headstay -­‐ The top of the headstay (wire or rod) should be checked to make sure it’s not bent. <br />

The fasteners and the top of the headstay foil should also be routinely checked. <br />

Clevis pins -­‐ More rigging and spar mishaps are caused by clevis pins backing out, than perhaps <br />

any other culprit. If the clevis pins are semi-­‐permanent (only removed a few times per year), <br />

then use appropriate sized cotter pin and fully bend them back around the clevis pin. Then cover <br />

with clear sealant rather than tape so that they are visible. <br />

Running rigging -­‐ suffers the greatest wear and tear (chafing primarily) and should be checked <br />

frequently for wear, particularly high load lines like main and jib halyards and jib sheets. <br />

Spars <br />

Spar life can vary, but Hall Spar’s general rule is the mast should be replaced every 20 years. <br />

Frequently check your spar for problems. Spars break more often than not by a failure in the <br />

standing rigging, but there are some specific areas to keep an eye out for: <br />

Deck Area -­‐ The mast section at the partners (where the mast passes through the deck) is usually <br />

subject to the most fatigue over time. This is due to the rig getting set up with pre-­‐bend, then <br />

pulling on lots of backstay tension, and the constant flexing of the spar over many years. The <br />

best prevention is a good set of mast wedges or the Spartite mast wedge system. Unchecked <br />

movement at the deck can significantly shorten the life of the spar. Be especially careful about <br />

drilling any holes in the mast near the deck, and periodically inspect any holes in the area to <br />

make sure, there are no cracks developing. Any holes must be round or have rounded corners. <br />

Spreader Tips -­‐ these should be untaped and inspected annually. Seizing wire should be redone <br />

annually so that the shrouds will never “pop” out of the spreader tip. Use spreader chafe covers <br />

that won’t collect water. <br />

Rig Tuning -­‐ to provide not only the best performance but also a longer mast life, it’s very <br />

important to properly “tune the mast.” Tuning means adjusting the shroud tension so that the <br />

top of the mast is centered over the boat, and such that the mast is in column or straight as you <br />

site up the mast groove on the aft side. Proper tuning for all conditions usually means <br />

maintaining enough tension on the shrouds so that they do not go completely slack on the <br />

leeward side while sailing. Many successful one-­‐design classes have tuning guides published and <br />

provided by sailmakers. Some of these may suggest very loose settings on the shrouds for better <br />

light air performance. Care should be taken by owners to avoid sailing in windy conditions with <br />

light air shroud settings. This may significantly shorten the life of the mast and lead to breakage.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 49 <br />

Aluminum Spars -­‐ are subject to corrosion and fittings should be routinely inspected and replaced <br />

when necessary. Particular problem areas over time can be fasteners around boom vang, boom <br />

and mast ends, and gooseneck attachment brackets. <br />

Booms -­‐ often have a shorter life than masts, particularly on race boats that do a lot of windward-­leeward<br />

buoy racing in breezy conditions. In some class boats it is common practice to pull the <br />

boom vang hard going upwind (vang-­‐sheeting) and then release the boom vang several inches <br />

going downwind. However if one bears away without first releasing the boom vang (from its <br />

vang-­‐sheeted position) then most booms will bend under this load. Repeated occurrences will <br />

shorten the life of the boom and could cause breakage. <br />

Rig Cutting Tool -­‐ Every sailboat should carry aboard a tool that is capable of cutting through <br />

standing rigging quickly. When a mast does break, the portion that is in the water can easily ram <br />

a hole and potentially sink a boat. You may not have time to unwrap the rigging tape and pull <br />

clevis pins at all the attachment points. The top of the line cutters are hydraulic, which can be <br />

used on wire or rod rigging. For small one designs (ex…J22, J24 & J80), a good hacksaw should <br />

be carried at a minimum. <br />

Other Structure <br />

Bulkhead Tabbing -­‐ the primary structural bulkheads of the boat are tabbed both to the hull and to <br />

the deck. This tabbing (or fiberglass tape) should be inspected annually and, especially, after any <br />

groundings or excessive exposure to “hard trailering”. If there is any evidence of gelcoat cracking <br />

or actual tabbing visibly loose or beginning to peel, ensure that a marine surveyor inspects the <br />

boat and recommends adequate remedies to correct potential damage. <br />

Hull-­‐to-­‐Deck Joint -­‐ all modern J/Boats are built with a “glued” PLEXUS (2-­‐part elastomer glue) <br />

hull to deck joint. It is an ISO/ABS approved method for hull-­‐to-­‐deck bonding. This joint should <br />

be inspected at least annually and, in particular, if any leaking is noticed inside the hull. <br />

Sometimes the best check is to use a “non-­‐permanent dye” in water to squeeze into the hull/deck <br />

joint and look for “runs” inside the hull. If any leaking is observed, have the hull to deck joint <br />

surveyed and have the surveyor make recommendations for adequate remedies to correct <br />

potential damage. <br />

Chainplate Fittings -­‐ Both port and starboard chainplates and the bow and stern chainplates <br />

should be checked at least annually. Look for leaks where they intersect the deck. <br />

Bow Sprit System -­‐ the sprit system is a combination of a carbon tube, pulley system and an <br />

integral bulkhead/ bow support. The system can easily be damaged, particularly when struck <br />

laterally or vertically at the end of the pole with any force (e.g. when rounding marks hitting <br />

sterns, hitting metal buoys, or burying the bow in steep seas under full force of the asymmetric <br />

spinnaker too many times). Regularly inspect the sprit for excessive wear where the sprit <br />

intersects the outer bearing at full extension. <br />

Deck Hardware <br />

Lifelines & Lifeline Fittings -­‐ should be replaced at least every 10 years or at the first sign of <br />

corrosion or damage to the wire strands, swages or turnbuckles. Many older boats have white <br />

vinyl coated lifelines, which are no longer allowed by ORC Offshore regulations, as the vinyl can <br />

disguise ongoing corrosion or damage to the wire. These should be replaced using appropriate <br />

wire type and diameter immediately.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 50 <br />

Sealants -­‐ used for deck hardware can last anywhere from 3 -­‐10 years depending on the stress <br />

exerted on the hardware. If most of your hardware is still original, you should consider backing <br />

off the fasteners and rebedding with Sikaflex. Jib and genoa tracks are usually the first areas to <br />

start to leak over time. Stanchion set screws should be re-­‐inspected and replaced when <br />

necessary. <br />

Additional Remarks <br />

There are few industry guidelines regarding pro-­‐active maintenance, inspection and periodic <br />

replacement of key components on aging composite boats. Many owners rely on reminders from <br />

their boatyards for upgrades or required maintenance. For trailerable one-­‐designs, it’s mostly up <br />

to the owner unless a surveyor gets involved with a pre-­‐sale survey, and even then, not all <br />

surveyors are versed in composites. There are critical areas on every boat that need to be <br />

vigilantly looked after and routinely inspected, and we strongly encourage all owners to start by <br />

inspecting their boats now to best ensure a long, productive life. <br />

FOOTNOTE: The contents of this article are thought to be accurate, but do not necessarily <br />

include all of the possible preventative maintenance suggestions that owners could follow to <br />

ensure long-­‐term, safe operation of their boats. Boats incur wear and tear in unique ways. When <br />

in doubt please consult a professional for advice/instruction on maintaining, inspecting, <br />

repairing and/or operating your boat.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 51 <br />

Appendix B: ABS Recommended Survey Schedule <br />

American Bureau of Shipping (ABS) 1994 Guidelines for Offshore Racing Yachts <br />

Section 11-­‐ Surveys after Construction <br />

Summary: <br />

ABS specifically recommends that a boat should be inspected every two years (the “Biennial Classification <br />

Survey”-­‐ Section 11.2) and every six years after date of construction (the “Special Periodical Survey”-­‐ <br />

Section 11.3). <br />

The 2 year surveys defined in Section 11.2 recommend the following survey to be completed: <br />

11.2(a)-­‐ boat hauled, cleaned, dried in satisfactory condition for examination. <br />

11.2(b)-­‐ general examination externally and internally and placed in satisfactory condition. <br />

11.2(c)-­‐ all thru-­‐hull openings and valves to be examined internally and externally. <br />

11.2(d)-­‐ basic list of items to be examined and placed in satisfactory condition; including superstructures, <br />

hatches, companionways, ventilator and airpipe coamings, skylights, flush deck scuttles, all openings in <br />

yacht sides including freeing ports. <br />

11.2(e)-­‐ general examination of the steering gear, operationally tested and placed in satisfactory condition. <br />

11.2(f)-­‐ general examination of anchoring equipment and placed in satisfactory condition. <br />

11.2(g)-­‐ general examination of mast, spars, standing rigging, running rigging and sails and placed in <br />

satisfactory condition. <br />

The 6 years surveys defined in Section 11.3 recommend a far more complete survey. In addition to all <br />

elements as described in 11.2-­‐ Biennial survey, the following components need examination: <br />

11.3(c)-­‐ examination of the rudder, bearings and stuffing boxes and placed in satisfactory condition. <br />

11.3(e)-­‐ complete examination of the interior, including removal of lining, ceiling, portable tanks and <br />

ballast as may be required by Surveyor to satisfy the condition of all parts of the structure. <br />

11.3(f)-­‐ all integral tanks tested to full capacity <br />

11.3(g)-­‐ examine anchor windlass, hawse pipes, anchors and cables and placed in satisfactory condition. <br />

11.3(i)-­‐ examine hull/keel fastenings and “hammer tested” to ascertain soundness by Surveyor. <br />

11.3(k)-­‐ all sails, masts, spars, standing and running rigging to be unstepped, laid down on ground and <br />

fully examined by Surveyor and placed in satisfactory condition. <br />

11.3(m)1-­‐ examine all framing, holds, hull laminate on the interior, tanks, bilges, drains and machinery. <br />

11.3(m)2-­‐ if there's evidence of cracking, distortion, wetness or delamination, destructive or non-­destructive<br />

testing and removal and repair of the defect carried out to the satisfaction of the Surveyor. <br />

11.3(m)3-­‐ examine engine foundations and attachment to hull <br />

11.3(m)4-­‐ examine the hull, fastenings and backing reinforcements regards hull fittings and attachments.

J/105 <strong>Owner</strong> Guide ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 52 <br />

Appendix C: US Watercraft Limited Warranty <br />

The sole and exclusive warranty of the product is the US Watercraft Warranty printed on the Warranty <br />

Card furnished with the yacht. The reprinted information on the following pages is included for <br />

reference but may or may not include the latest information from US Watercraft.

• More documents
• Recommendations

• Page 2 and 3: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 4 and 5: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 6 and 7: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 8 and 9: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 10 and 11: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 12 and 13: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 14 and 15: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 16 and 17: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 18 and 19: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 20 and 21: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 22 and 23: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 24 and 25: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 26 and 27: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 28 and 29: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 30 and 31: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 32 and 33: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 34 and 35: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 36 and 37: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 38 and 39: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 40 and 41: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 42 and 43: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 44 and 45: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 46 and 47: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 48 and 49: J/105 Owner Guide ..............
• Page 50 and 51: J/105 Owner Guide ..............

J/105 Owner Guide ..............

Extended embed settings

Inappropriate

You have already flagged this document. Thank you, for helping us keep this platform clean. The editors will have a look at it as soon as possible.

Mail this publication

Delete template.

Are you sure you want to delete your template?

DOWNLOAD ePAPER

This ePaper is currently not available for download. You can find similar magazines on this topic below under ‘Recommendations’.

Save as template?

• Help & Support
• tuxbrain.com
• ooomacros.org
• nubuntu.org
• Terms of service
• Privacy policy
• Cookie policy
• Cookie settings

Choose your language

Main languages

Further languages

• Bahasa Indonesia

Performing this action will revert the following features to their default settings:

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!

The Worldwide Leader in Sailmaking

• Sail Care & Repair
• Sailing Gear
• Find A Loft
• Sail Finder
• Custom Sails
• One Design Sails
• Flying Sails
• New Sail Quote
• 3Di Technology
• Helix Technology
• Sail Design
• NPL RENEW Sustainable Sailcloth
• Sailcloth & Material Guide
• Polo Shirts
• Sweaters & Cardigans
• Sweatshirts & Hoodies
• Accessories
• Summer Sale
• Shop the look
• Mid & Baselayers
• Deckwear & Footwear
• Luggage & Accessories
• Spring Summer '24
• North Sails x 37th America's Cup
• Sailor Jackets
• SALT X North Sails
• NS x Slowear
• T-shirts & Tops
• Sailor Jacket
• Sustainability
• North Sails Blog
• Sail Like A Girl
• 37th America's Cup
• Icon Sailor Jacket
• Our Locations
• Certified B Corporation
• North SUP Boards
• North Foils
• North Kiteboarding
• North Windsurfing

SAIL FINDER

SAILING GEAR

COLLECTIONS & COLLAB

COLLECTIONS

WE ARE NORTH SAILS

ACTION SPORTS

Popular Search Terms

Organic cotton

Scuba fleece

Drawstring hood

Utility pocket

Stand collar

Sorry, no results for ""

Subscription

Welcome aboard.

We want to make our emails as relevant as possible for you.

Interests saved

Something went wrong, please try again

Welcome to North Sails

Stay up to date with the latest North Sails news.

Receive a 10% discount code for your first apparel order. Excludes sails and SUP’s. See our Terms and Conditions .

Yes, I agree to the terms of use and privacy policy.

J/105 DOWNWIND TIPS AND TRICKS

How to sail as deep as possible while still keeping your speed up.

We often see teams get a little too relaxed when sailing downwind, even though this is where you will make the largest gains (and losses) when racing your J/105. You are trying to get to the bottom mark as fast as possible, so you need to sail as deep as possible while still keeping your speed up. Since the J/105 is primarily a displacement boat and doesn’t plane easily, the key is to coordinate several critical elements as you sail through velocity changes.

Puffs and lulls

Sailing with the wind, you will only see about half as many puffs as you did sailing upwind, so it is critical to designate one crew to call the breeze. A constant stream of verbal puff and lull communication will help keep your team in sync and anticipate the next change in velocity.

The goal for the helm is to minimize rudder movements while steering the boat downwind, using crew movement and sail trim to steer the boat. Make sure you are in a comfortable position with good visibility. We often see the helm trying to sit too far forward, which makes it difficult to steer accurately. As a driver, you are going to be working hard all race, so get comfortable!

Kite Trimming

The spinnaker trimmer and helm should maintain a continuous dialogue, discussing the pressure on the spinnaker and the correct angle to sail. “Up in the lulls and down in the puffs”…right? Yes, but make sure the angle changes are slow and smooth. As the breeze starts to drop, begin to “heat” up slowly—before the boat speed crashes—until you reach the angle that will keep your speed up in less breeze. When the puff returns, bear away and gradually build speed until you reach the new lower target angle.

In non-planing boats like the J/105, the goal is to get the spinnaker to rotate to weather, which increases its projected area and gets the sail out of the disturbed air behind the mainsail. To accomplish this we use both heel angle and tack line ease. In all but very light wind, keep the boat flat (or even slightly heeled to weather). This will also help the boat sail deeper in the puffs with less helm movement. Generally speaking, you can ease the tack line of the spinnaker as long as it goes straight up or to weather; if it goes to leeward when eased, keep it tight.

Weight placement

The J/105 is very responsive to weight placement, and moving crew weight to help turn the boat will minimize the amount of rudder needed.To head up, the crew leans to leeward; to head down, the crew hikes/leans to windward. In light air, we like to keep only the helm and main trimmer behind the cabin top winches; put the rest of the crew at the shrouds. As the breeze picks up, we move weight back just enough to keep the bow from digging in.

At least once a season, we like to completely empty the boat of EVERYTHING. This is a great way to see how much excess weight is on board, as well as an opportunity to pare back to the bare necessities.

Stabilize the rig

Keeping the rig from bouncing around in puffs and waves will mean the sails are pulling the boat forward and not just moving the mast. Apply enough backstay tension to make it “just snug”, and tension the jib sheets after furling to take the “slop” out of the headstay.

Four Modes of Downwind Sailing

Light air vmg.

In VMG mode, the apparent wind will be around 90 degrees. Make sure the trimmers are easing sails in the puffs so the driver can work lower. The crew will be sitting forward and to leeward in the light spots, moving to the centerline and even up to weather in the puffs to help steer the boat down. Constant communication between the trimmers and helm is critical!

Moderate air running

The crew sits just behind the shrouds, heeling the boat to weather to help rotate the spinnaker out from behind the main. Ease the tack line as much as possible while keeping the spinnaker stable; don’t let the tack fall to leeward.

Heavy air running

The crew slides aft to help grind in the spinnaker and to keep the bow from digging in. If you are having a hard time steering straight, there is too much weight forward.

Wing on Wing

Sailing wing and wing can be very beneficial, especially for tactical reasons. Our recommendation is to sail conventionally, unless the water is very flat or you need to dig low for tactical reasons. A winged-out spinnaker is not as stable, and recovering from a collapse is very slow.

When all of these variables work in harmony, huge gains can be made by continuously sailing lower and faster and smoother than the boats around you. By working on these elements in practice and then applying what you learn on the race course, you can definitely “up your game.”

GET IN TOUCH

REQUEST A QUOTE

BROWSE ALL SAILS

FIND YOUR SAIL

Featured stories, offshore sailing guide, how to care for your foul weather gear, npl renew faq.

• Refresh page