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sailboat mast hinge

Hinged Mast Bases

Hinged mast bases are designed for deck stepped masts to be used to help in the stepping process using a gin pole or on smaller masts, by hand. They are not designed to be used as tabernacle bases for temporarily lowering a mast to pass under a bridge or obstruction. For that use, we can custom make tabernacle bases that, along with mast and rigging modifications and using the boom as a gin pole, can make "on the fly" lowering possible.

We produce several sizes of hinge plates. The size is defined by the flat area of the plate that is available to mount the mast step or plug and mast section. The sizes follow:

HMB E27 5" X 3.5" Punched flanges 5 holes each side. HMB SC27 6.75" X 4.25" No flanges. HMB M30 6.5" X 4" Punched flanges 5 holes each side. HMB 8055 8.0" X 5.5" Punched flanges 5 holes each side.

As you can see, the largest hinge plate has a flat area of 8" x 5.5". This will usually accommodate extrusion up to 8" x 5.5" and that is what we consider the largest section that can be safely stepped with a hinge plate. Larger sizes can use a custom tabernacle. The top plate of all of the tabernacles have fastener holes predrilled and countersunk. The base plates of all but the HMB E27 are left undrilled so that the existing bolt pattern in the deck can be match drilled. The holes will also have to be counter sunk. There are several methods of attaching the mast extrusion to the top plate. If the existing mast step casting is in good condition and with enough inherent strength to do the job, it can be attached to the top plate by machine screws , either with nuts or tapped into the step casting. The mast would be then attached to the mast step by drilling and tapping through the mast wall.

The second method is to make a plug out of thick aluminum (min. 3/4") that fits into the mast reasonably tightly. Small masts can use thick (3/4" +) Delrin or UHMW or similar plastic. The plug can then be attached to the top plate and the mast using the same method as with a casting. It is best to drill and tap all attachments since it usually works best to install the plug in the mast extrusion first and then attach it to the top plate.

With all methods of attachment , it is strongly recommended that thin plastic is installed between the mast , mast step or plug and the stainless steel top plate to inhibit galvanic corrosion. This is especially important if the boat is sailed in salt water. We can supply this material, optionally.

The base plate should be mounted on a flat on the boat deck that is at least as large as the base plate. It is important that the base plate is fully supported. Hard epoxy filler can be used if the buildup is not thicker than about 1/4". Thicker buildups should be done using fiberglass and resin laminations. G10 can also be shaped and glued to the deck with epoxy . The base plates are preferably bolted through the deck although long screws or lags can be used if the deck has sufficient thickness. Short screws or screws used in holes that are not close fitting and free from rot should not be used. Many manufacturers used plywood under the mast steps and through the years water may have penetrated the wood causing rot. This should be checked and repaired. The screws must grip very well if they are to be used instead of bolts. Use silicone sealer under the deck plate to seal the fasteners.

After the mast is stepped, the two hinge plates should be in full contact with the alignment pin fully engaged with the top plate. If this is not the case, the mast step under the bottom ss plate should be leveled. The alternative is to trim an angle in the butt of the mast extrusion. Many mast butts are not cut at 90 degrees in order to compensate for deck angle. If this is the case on your mast, this angle should be maintained and the plug or casting should be attached at that angle. In other words, if the mast is sitting down properly on the step before the hinging process is started, do not trim the base of the mast at a different angle. If you build up the boat under the step, be sure not to change the angle. If you do, the mast may need to be trimmed to accommodate the new mast/step angle.

There are a number of methods of raising the mast with a hinge base. Some use A frames, others step by hand and I like to use a gin pole set up. I believe that the gin pole method is the safest and fastest method to step a mast. The method employs a dedicated gin pole (some people use their spinnaker pole) which attaches to the mast and has a couple of lines that go from the deck to its tip, athwartships to support it side to side. A dead ended halyard goes over the tip of the gin pole an attaches to either a block and tackle attached to the bow or to the trailer winch in the case of a trailer boat. The mast needs a sideways support line from each side of the boat go keep it from falling sideways during the lift. These support lines or wires should attach to the boat at about the same vertical height as the hinge pin so that their lengths remain the same over most of the lift.

To lift the mast, usually the upper shrouds are not attached since they do not have enough range to go through the arc of the lift. The backstay should be attached and the aft lowers (if the boat has them) should be attached along with the gin pole guides lines and mast lifting wires. The halyard that is over the gin pole is tensioned, after clearing all bystanders from the fall zone of the mast, and the lift begins by cranking the trailer winch or pulling on the block and tackle. The mast will come up and it is important to clear all of the shrouds as it does. Never should anyone stand or sit in the fall zone of the mast. As the mast reaches its full up postion, the upper shrouds and forward lowers can be attached and tightened, and the headstay attached and tightened. When the mast is up and the wires tensioned, the lifting gear can be removed.

Safety tips:

  • NEVER, NEVER, NEVER allow anyone to be in the fall zone of the mast when raising the mast.
  • All parts of the raising gear should be first class, fully rated hardware. No cheap hardware store clips or other parts that can bend or break. Rated screw shackles are the best to use. Galvanized is fine and less expensive than stainless. No snap hooks, use rated snapshackles or rated locking carabineers if quick release is desired.
  • Extreme care should always be used. Go slowly and stop if something does not seem right. Watch the rigging as the mast is raised to be sure that nothing has snagged or that turnbuckles are leading properly.
  • Inspect all of the raising gear before attempting to step the mast. Inspect all connections before lifting.
  • Never try to catch the mast if it starts to fall. It may seem counterintuitive to say this, but the natural reaction is to try to catch the mast. Stay out of the fall zone when lifting.
  • Attempting to step the mast in high winds or on the water when the boat is rolling due to wave action is not safe.

No one set up will work with all boats. I have outlined a method that has worked on a number of boats that I have set up. It allows for the operator to be at the bow of the boat, in the safest spot. There are other methods that use the boom for a gin pole and lift the mast from the bow. The boom must be fixed in position and not on a sliding gooseneck. This method works well and is the preferred method when a tabernacle step is used for "on the fly" mast lowering for bridges. The tabernacle system uses a custom designed mast base and requires that the bottom of the mast be modified . The standing rigging has to be modified as well so that the rigging can remain attached and relatively tight as the mast is lowered. Again, the hinge base is not designed for this type of mast lowering. The hinged mast base can, however, be reversed with the hinge forward so that the mast can be raised from the bow using the boom as a gin pole. This is not for lowering the mast on the go, but for mast stepping under controlled conditions.

This article is for informational purposes only. Ballenger Spar Systems, Inc. will not be held liable for the use or misuse of the information in this article. This article is not to be reproduced or used in any way without prior consent.

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hinged mast

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sailboat mast hinge

It really depends on the size of the boat, but considering that you asking about passing under bridges, I am guessing this is considerably bigger than a sailing dinghy. However, if you mean hinging the mast in the center of the spar, when you say "Hinging a mast in the center," you're either mad or a complete idiot. JMHO. Generally, the loads on a mast are generally such that you don't want a weak point in the center of the spar. Also making such a hinged point would add quite a bit of weight aloft, if the point were to be strong enough to take the loads experienced by a spar. Most setups that allow you to drop the mast on the water involve using a tabernacle setup or a hinge point at the mast step. Generally, a mast step-type hinge is limited to smaller boats, due to the size and weight of the spar. My boat, which has a 35' 6" mast, has a mast lowering system, but the spar is lowered as a whole, using a series of A-frames instead. I can lower or raise the mast using a single control line. The process can be stopped at any point and reversed at any point if need be.  

sailboat mast hinge

Tabernacle mast I'm looking to buy a 30ft Hunter sloop 1978, and have access to a slip at a friends house for free the only problem is I have to go under a bridge to get there and I think the mast will be to tall at low tide to make the passage. I believe this boat has a 45ft mast and is on a tabernacle mount. Will this solve the bridge problem in fact do away with the low tide problem? Thanks for your advice. Rick in California.  

sailboat mast hinge

Captphil; While I don't agree with Sailingdog's assessment of your mental state I do agree that the physics of a mast hinged in the center are pretty much insurmountable in your case. A stayed mast is under a surprising amount of compression, or to put it another way, the rig is trying to make the mast shorter. Brian Toss gives an analogy of taking an uncooked piece of spaghetti and pushing the ends together. It doesn't take much force to cause it to break in the middle. Obviously a joint of any kind would have to be at least as strong as the rest of the mast, a daunting task to design, and it would be very heavy, placing all that weight well above the waterline where it will have the most affect on stability. Mounting the mast on a tabernacle will allow it to be lowered and raised and the ease with which that is done is totally dependant on the way it is rigged. The design of the rig (masthead or fractional) location and length of the chain plates, the arraignment of the lowers, the rigging of the forestay and backstay and the arrangement of the running rigging are just a few of the factors that will affect the ease or lack thereof of lowering your mast. It is not impossible, and has been done very well many times, but it will take a bit of study and planning to make it work well. One of the hardest parts is the ability to keep, or at least be able to re-create the tune of the rig after lowering and raising the mast. Check out your local library and look through the book sellers for books on rigging. Check out other boats with tabernacle stepped masts and if possible talk to the owners. Do a few Google searches on the topic. Then when you have some working knowledge of the topic and still decide to go ahead the questions you ask here will be much more specific and easier for the pundits on this form to answer knowledgeably. Feetup  

feetup said: Captphil; While I don't agree with Sailingdog's assessment of your mental state I do agree that the physics of a mast hinged in the center are pretty much insurmountable in your case. A stayed mast is under a surprising amount of compression, or to put it another way, the rig is trying to make the mast shorter. Feetup Click to expand...

As Keelhauling mentioned Santa Cruz has a large population of tabernacled rigs because of the bridge disecting the harbor. A 45' rig is at the upper limits of what is normally tabernacled here, but it is done on rigs this tall. If you have a rigid roller furler the task is much more complicated. sce56, if you already have a tabernacle base you've got the hardest part done. On a rig that size you'll want an electric winch, smaller rigs generally use the main sheet to lower the mast. As Feetup mentions specific questions will be much easier to answer but here's a very generalized synopsis of how it is normally done. * add pivot the upper shrouds in line with the mast pivot point * add pelican hooks or another quick release to the aft lowers if you have them (these are not your normal pelican hooks, they are custom made and large enough to take the shroud load) * Make a bridle to stay the boom end to the shroud pivots and then back to the primary winches. This holds the boom center line and stays the upper shrouds at the pivot point. * Add method to connect the back stay to the boom end. * Add a quick release to the back stay You then use the winch or the main sheet attached to the boom end to lower and rase the mast. There's a rigger here in Santa Cruz who has extensive experience in tabernacling boats, but in a sign of the times, he was sued and no longer rigs tabernacles, but I believe Ballenger Spars still makes the pelican hooks. Hope this helps.  

Lion35 said: As Keelhauling mentioned Santa Cruz has a large population of tabernacled rigs because of the bridge disecting the harbor. A 45' rig is at the upper limits of what is normally tabernacled here, but it is done on rigs this tall. If you have a rigid roller furler the task is much more complicated. sce56, if you already have a tabernacle base you've got the hardest part done. On a rig that size you'll want an electric winch, smaller rigs generally use the main sheet to lower the mast. As Feetup mentions specific questions will be much easier to answer but here's a very generalized synopsis of how it is normally done. * add pivot the upper shrouds in line with the mast pivot point * add pelican hooks or another quick release to the aft lowers if you have them (these are not your normal pelican hooks, they are custom made and large enough to take the shroud load) * Make a bridle to stay the boom end to the shroud pivots and then back to the primary winches. This holds the boom center line and stays the upper shrouds at the pivot point. * Add method to connect the back stay to the boom end. * Add a quick release to the back stay You then use the winch or the main sheet attached to the boom end to lower and rase the mast. There's a rigger here in Santa Cruz who has extensive experience in tabernacling boats, but in a sign of the times, he was sued and no longer rigs tabernacles, but I believe Ballenger Spars still makes the pelican hooks. Hope this helps. Click to expand...

sce56- Yes; the boat you are looking at does appear to have a tabernacle setup. How it works is a question for the seller; you really need to know exactly how to rig it before you drop the mast down. Usually what is done is the mast is dropped down while underway and only far enough to assure that the mast will go beneath the bridge and then once through the mast is hoisted back up. Also you need to consider that as the angle of the mast increases; the load on the mainsheet will go up because the leverage of the boom is getting less effective against the CG of the mast. So you probably should not drop it down much more than 45-50 degrees (just an educated guess don't take that as a hard value). I think Lion35's explaination of how it should be rigged is an excellent starting point. If the owner does not know how to tabernacle; you should hire a rigger/surveyor or someone who knows how to get it setup properly to help you do it dockside before you attempt this while underway. And definitely practice it a few times while underway because you don't want to have an accident by either dropping the mast onto the deck or crashing it into the bridge you are going under.  

Hi Rick, Keelhauling is right. You need to figure out exactly how the PO rigged the boat for tabernacling, or re-engineer it to be certain it is sound , but the good news is it sounds like it's completely setup with the hardware. If possible, talking with the PO about how he used it would be best. With a '45 mast and a '32 bridge you probably won't need a mast crutch, but you'll need to figure out the rig geometry to know for sure. The first big questions will be: how long is your boom, how high up the mast is the goose neck, and what is the height off the water of the mast pivot. The bridle stays fixed and taught. It is run from the end of the boom, to the pivot points on the upper shrouds and then back to winches in the cockpit or some other point well aft. This holds the boom in column with the mast and provides the pivot point on the shrouds with aft tension. The backstay is attached to the boom end and then either the main sheet or a winch is used to lift or lower the mast via the boom. I have good friends in Channel Island Harbor on a 46' boat named "Oz". They love it there, if you happen to see the boat say hi form Lion in SC.  

Rick, I just looked at the pics of the boat. I would bet the winch line ran up through the inspection port on the helm seat, the angle looks right for it.  

Thanks guys. I appriciate all the comments. If we presue this design, and live through it, I will report back. I was hoping to have a wise old gray beard say, "oh, yea, reminds me of what we did back in 1920" lol.  

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(001) 401-739-1140 -- (001) 401-739-1149

Z-Spar has produced an incredible variety of cast aluminum Standard and Tabernacle (hinged) Mast Steps. Most Hinged (Tabernacle) Mast Steps are listed below, for Standard (non-hinging) Mast Steps, See, . If you require a listed below, please specify Mast Section and Mast Step description when inquiring.


Cast aluminum Deck Plate for use with Tabernacle Mast Foot on Z145, Z170, and Z190 Mast Sections. Features holes on each side for use with turning blocks. Mast Foot hinges on 6mm pin ( ), included, which goes through holes on aft side of Deck Plate. Deck Plate measures 4 7/8" (124mm) long, by 4 1/4" (108mm) wide and fastens to deck with (4) 1/4" (6mm) FH screws.

 

 

 


SS Hinge Pin for use with Deck Plate. Pin is 6mm (1/4") diameter with a 95mm Grip length.

 

 

 


Special SS Vang Toggle slides over Mast Step Hinge Pin in & Tabernackle Deck Plates. Formed Toggle with welded post will fit over 6mm & 8mm Hinge Pins and is 1 1/16" (27mm) wide to fit between Mast Step casting ears. Toggle has 6mm hole for attachment of shackle Pin, ears spread to 3/8" (10mm) wide to better support Shackle. Use with any 6mm Pin Shackle, or use Heavy-duty 6mm Screw Pin Bow Shackle

 

 

 


Special high-density Spacer for use with Deck Plate. Plastic Spacer fits under Deck Plate, raising it 1 1/2" to make up for height lost when switching from Mast Foot with Sheaves, below. Spacer is drilled to match holes in Deck Plate.

 

 


Cast aluminum Mast Foot for Z145 section hinges on 6mm pin ( ) which goes through holes on aft side of Deck Plate. Unit may be labeled 1397.

 


Cast aluminum Mast Foot for Z170 section hinges on 6mm (1/4") pin ( ) which goes through holes on aft side of Deck Plate. Unit may be labeled 1011 and/or 1095.

 


Cast aluminum Mast Foot for Z190 section hinges on ( ) which goes through holes on aft side of Deck Plate. Unit is (maximum) 5" (127mm) long x 3 1/4" (82mm) wide. Unit may be labeled 1012 and/or 1096.

 

Cast aluminum Deck Plate for use with Tabernacle Mast Foot on Z190, Z230 and Z265 Mast Sections. Features holes on each side for use with , and turning blocks, or Block Studs. Mast Foot ( ), included, which goes through holes on aft side of Deck Plate. Deck Plate measures 6" (152mm) long, by 5 1/8" (130mm) wide and fastens to deck with (4) 1/4" (6mm) FH screws.

 

 

 


SS Hinge Pin for use with Deck Plate. Pin is 8mm (5/16") diameter with a 103mm Grip length.

 

 

 


Special SS Vang Toggle slides over Mast Step Hinge Pin in & Tabernackle Deck Plates. Formed Toggle with welded post will fit over 6mm & 8mm Hinge Pins and is 1 1/16" (27mm) wide to fit between Mast Step casting ears. Toggle has 6mm hole for attachment of shackle Pin, ears spread to 3/8" (10mm) wide to better support Shackle. Use with any 6mm Pin Shackle, or use Heavy-duty 6mm Screw Pin Bow Shackle

 


cast aluminum Mast Foot for Z190 section hinges on ( ) which goes through holes on aft side of Deck Plate. Unit is (maximum) 5 1/4" (134mm) long x 3 1/4" (82mm) wide. Unit may be labeled 1012 and/or 1171.

 


Cast aluminum Mast Foot for Z230 section hinges on 8mm (5/16") pin ( ) which goes through holes on aft side of Deck Plate. Unit may be labeled 1014 and/or 1097.

 


Cast aluminum Mast Foot for Z230E furling mast section hinges on 8mm (5/16") pin ( ) which goes through holes on aft side of Deck Plate. Unit may be labeled 4001.

 


Cast aluminum Mast Foot for Z265 section hinges on 8mm (5/16") pin ( ) which goes through holes on aft side of Deck Plate. Unit may be labeled 1015 and/or 1098.

 


Old-Style Mast Feet with integral sheaves have been obsoleted. Some sizes and angles are available on a limited basis.
 
Aluminum Deck Plate fits Z145, Z170, and Z190 Mast Feet with Sheaves. Cast Plate measures 97mm (3 13/16") long (on deck) x 60mm (2 5/16") wide, with vertical rib, and slot on aft side for 6mm pin. Attaches to deck with (4) 6mm (1/4") FH screws on 32mm (1 1/4") x 79mm (3 1/8") centers.

 






Old-Style small Cast Aluminum Mast Foot with Sheaves for Z145 Mast and Deck Plate. Used with up to six (6) 28mm Sheaves, , and 6mm knurled axle Pins in a variety of lengths. See: .

 


Old-Style small Cast Aluminum Mast Foot with Sheaves for Z170 Mast and Deck Plate. Used with up to six (6) 28mm Sheaves, , and 6mm knurled axle Pins in a variety of lengths. See: .

 





Old-Style small Cast Aluminum Mast Foot with Sheaves for Z190 Mast and Deck Plate. Used with up to six (6) 28mm Sheaves, , and 6mm knurled axle Pins in a variety of lengths. See: .

 

 

 






Knurled SS Axle Pins used for Sheaves in a variety of Mast Steps and in other applications.

 

for Z145: Z-145SF-SKit:


Replacement Kit for Old-Style small Mast Feet includes Deck Plate, above, with special high-density Spacer, , and the proper size Mast Foot to go with it. This arrangement eliminates the need to shorten rigging required with the New-Style Tabernacle alone, while maintaining Boom height. Conversion requires a separate Exit Plate, , for halyards cleated on the Mast. For each halyard that was led through the Old-Style Mast Foot , an Exit Plate, , a Turning Block, will be required (order separately). Attaches to deck with (4) 6mm (6mm) FH screws . To order, specify Mast Section.
As used on and others.
As used on
As used on

 

 
Aluminum Deck Plate fits Z230 and Z260 Mast Feet with Sheaves. Cast Plate measures 138mm (5 7/16") long x 78mm (3 1/16") wide, with vertical rib and horizontal SS 8mm pin. Attaches to deck with (4) 6mm (1/4") FH screws.

 


Old-Style large Cast Aluminum Mast Foot with Sheaves for Z230 Mast and Deck Plate. Used with up to six (6) 45mm Sheaves, , and 8mm knurled axle Pins in a variety of lengths. See: .

 

for Z230: Z-230SF-SKit:
Replacement Kit for Old-Style Z230 Mast Feet includes Deck Plate, above, with special high-density Spacer, and the Mast Foot, to go with it. This arrangement eliminates the need to shorten rigging required with the New-Style Tabernacle alone, while maintaining Boom height. Conversion requires a separate Exit Plate, , or , for halyards cleated on the Mast. For each halyard that was led through the Old-Style Mast Foot , an Exit Plate a Turning Block, , , or , or Block Stud will be required (order separately). Attaches to deck with (4) 6mm (1/4") FH screws, .

 

 



Cast Aluminum Mast Foot with Sheaves for Z260 Mast and Deck Plate. Used with up to six (6) 45mm Sheaves, , and 8mm knurled axle Pins in a variety of lengths. and are shown here for identification only.

 

Aluminum Deck Plate to fit old-style Z260 and other Mast Feet with Sheaves. Cast Plate measures 160mm (6 5/16") long x 120mm (4 3/4") wide x 22mm (7/8") thick, with fore and aft slot to accept rib in mast foot, and slot in aft side for 6mm hinge pin. Attaches to deck with up to (8) 6mm (1/4") FH screws. As used on early and others. *

 


Cast Aluminum Mast Foot with Sheaves for Z260 Mast and Deck Plate. Used with up to six (6) 45mm Sheaves, , and 8mm knurled axle Pins in a variety of lengths. As used on early and others. and is shown here for identification only.

 

 

 


Sheave used in Mast Foot and a variety of other applications. Nylon Sheave is 45mm (1 3/4") x 13mm wide x 8mm ID.

 

 

 









Knurled SS Axle Pins used for Sheaves in a variety of Mast Steps and in other applications.

 

 

 






Knurled SS Axle Pins used for Sheaves and Axles in a variety of applications.

 

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  6. Hinged Mast Bases

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  9. hinged mast

    Most setups that allow you to drop the mast on the water involve using a tabernacle setup or a hinge point at the mast step. Generally, a mast step-type hinge is limited to smaller boats, due to the size and weight of the spar. My boat, which has a 35' 6" mast, has a mast lowering system, but the spar is lowered as a whole, using a series of A ...

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