composting head sailboat

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• Systems & Propulsion

Dissecting the Desiccating Head

Ps embarks on an excretionary voyage into the world of alternative, ‘composting’ toilet systems..

Our first cruising boat had a conventional portable toilet. We didn’t like it, but we made peace with it, cruising for up to two weeks at a time. Using the best treatment helped (see PS September 2018, “Controlling Porta-potty Odor).

Our next boat, a PDQ 32 cruising cat, had a holding tank system. We replaced the hoses with low permeation types (see PS April 2012, “Marine Sanitation Hose Test,”), and used the best treatments (see PS February 2012, “Solutions for a Stinky Holding Tank”). As long as we maintained the head properly, it was just like home. We were fortunate to have accessible pump-out stations in our marina and cruising ground.

Then, we downsized to an F-24 trimaran. Like our first boat, it came with a conventional portable toilet, and we didn’t like that. My back was 25 years older, so carrying it through the cabin and up to the dock was annoying, maybe even dangerous. Smaller toilets (a weight I can actually lift) fill up in two days, making them impractical for us. Weight isn’t the only issue with a portable toilet. You have to take it home, dump it, clean it, top off the flush tank, and bring it back to the boat. For the past three years we’ve used WAG bags deployed in the empty portable head. Because we were day sailing, they were only for emergencies, and we could always charge the portable with water and chemical and use that if we felt the need.

Composting toilets are growing very popular, and we’ve tested a few (see PS November 2002, “Composting Marine Heads”). They reduce odor by separating the urine from the solids and then begin a composting process. We concluded that they worked well, but on sailboats they technically function as dry toilets not composting toilets. A true composting toilet, as defined by NSF/ANSI standard 41, Non-Liquid Saturated Treatment Systems, provides actual composting and will reduce coliform bacteria to <200 MPN/100ml. This takes months of holding capacity, venting, controlled temperature, moisture, aeration, and mixing, and a lot more space and power than any boat can afford.

DRY TOILET TYPES

Dry toilets, more accurately referred to as desiccating toilets, take a different approach, eliminating odor by separating the urine from the solids, and then drying the solids to form a dry crust. As it turns out, most of the odor is generated when urine and solids are mixed, and by separating them, they can each be treated to avoid odor.

Properly treated urine has no smell —amazing, but true—and you can’t smell dried dog poop until you step in it (see page 18 “Additives Fight Urine Odor”). Separation is accomplished using a separating toilet seat that funnels urine away into a separate container and away from the solid waste (see page 16, “DIY Desiccating Head Options”). Composting systems use a mixer to chop up and blend the solids with the absorbent, making a mess you hope will start to compost. Desiccating toilets can take several approaches. The C-Head dry toilet uses a gentle wave motion to coat the solids with absorbent, the result is more like a cat litter box with lumps than a homogenous mixture (see page 23, “Clever C-head Downsizes the Waterless Toilet System”).

Non-churn systems allow you to line the container or bucket with a bag, making for truly simple servicing; no mixer to pull out or work around, no waste to pour into a bag, leaving no possibility of spills. This is a considerable advantage if guests or multiple users may make a mistake, inadvertently peeing in the solid waste side.

If urine and solid waste are mixed, you’ll need to start over to prevent odors, and this is easier if you use a bag liner. The down side of the bag approach is that you will need to add absorbent after each use. Additionally, if you leave the boat for more than a day or a few, it is best to empty the bin, a bag makes that easy.

All of these dry “treatment” options that involve separating liquid and solid waste will allow you to cruise longer than you could with a conventional portable toilet. Even the smallest waterless toilet system can hold a week or two. The larger ones can go weeks without requiring a shore stop.

This convenience doesn’t come cheap. You’d think the few pieces of plastic required to assemble a desiccating toilet would cost less than a quality portable or inexpensive marine head, but in fact they are 5-10 times that price.

Fortunately, there are DIY kits that include key parts, like a molded plastic urine diverter, so your DIY project will have a finished appearance. Our F-24 had a tiny space allotted for the head, commercial units were too expensive and not the right shape, and having designed municipal waste treatment systems, including odor control, I thought would give it a go, from optimizing the treatment chemistry to building a supercompact DIY unit.

Composting is a misnomer for dry toilets used on boats. They are desiccating systems, like a litter box, and the waste is only dried. Every few days to few weeks, and anytime you leave the boat for more than a day or two, you should empty the bin.

For day and weekend use, we opted for the no-churn method and bagging the waste. Initially we used WAG bags (see PS September 2018). These are a double bag system, with a 1-mil inner bag and a 2-mil outer Ziplock bag, plus an absorbent to contain liquids. (We bought them without absorbent and used our own).

Because the urine and solid waste go in the same bag during standard WAG bag usage, and they are gelled but not dried, a sturdy bag system is required. However, using the PS dry toilet design, the bucket waste is very dry and didn’t even stick to the bag, so we switched to quality kitchen bags and double bagged for disposal, just to be safe.

Common sense says don’t use the small waste bin by the marina office or the garbage can near the dinghy landing for your toilet waste. Walk it to the main dumpster.

If you still feel guilty, consider that the EPA estimates that 1.5 percent of the domestic trash stream is disposable diapers. We are not aware of any specific federal regulation regarding small quantity waste disposal from desiccating or composting toilets.

You can, of course, transport your bagged waste home for flushing (in small ‘doses’ only), using for compost, or adding to the trash bins. Alternatively, you can skip the bags, get a second bucket with a lid, and consider the churn method (see C-head review, page 20). True composting is more complex, and will take 6 months on the average. Do not use the finished compost for food crops, because human pathogens are still possible. Control access and run off.

As for the urine, taking the jugs ashore is simple. Some marinas forbid the disposal of portable toilet waste, but they’re taking about the blue-treated mess from a conventional portable toilet. Yes, many users dump it over the side. However, this is forbidden inside the 3-mile limit and there really is a lot of nitrogen and phosphorous in there. At the very least, avoid poorly flushed harbors.

OBSERVATIONS

Physiology differs and some will find it more difficult to get everything in the right spot. Sometimes it helps to urinate first, somewhat forward on the seat, and then slide back as it becomes mission critical.

Start with about two cups of absorbent in the bag. Cover the solids with about one cup of absorbent first, before adding TP, and then another cup of absorbent after. There’s no harm in using more absorbent, it will just fill the bucket sooner, but you will soon learn that you need less than you think.

Alternatively, you can place the toilet paper in a separate resealable bag to save space in the head. Doing this will reduce the amount of absorbent needed and the desiccation will dramatically reduce the waste volume. We found that a 3-gallon bucket will last one person about 10 days, toilet paper and all, assuming the toilet is used exclusively. A 5-gallon bucket should easily last two people one week. If you dispose the toilet paper separately, it will last 2-3 times longer and smell slightly less because the absorbent is more effective at controlling odor. We tested both ways, and concluded it comes down to personal preference and needs.

Spray the urine diverter with treatment after each use. A spray bottle filled with 5:1 – 10:1 dilution of one of the odor treatments recommended in “Additives to Fight Urine Odor” (see page 18). The chute in the back does not get soiled and does not require cleaning. It is only there to prevent a mess in the event of a stomach bug.

Solid waste should not be left in the toilet if the toilet is not going to be used for more than a few days. Empty the toilet every week regardless of how full it is and leave it clean if you are going to be away. Really, there is little advantage to being able to store large amounts of waste in the toilet. It only means a more difficult process when emptying becomes inevitable. Compost the waste outside in a compost tower or discard it (see below, “Disposing of Desiccated Waste”). If it is wet it will stink; this is rule number one. The drier you keep it, the easier it will be to empty the bucket and keep it clean.

Venting can help, but generally is not needed if the container is sufficiently dry. Following that thread, we experimented with keeping a container of calcium chloride or silica gel adsorbent cylinders (see “High and Dry for the Winter,” November 2012) in the enclosure (but not in the bucket itself). Yes, it seemed to help, since the drier the absorbent and the deposits, the less potential for smell. But do not add desiccant (silica gel or calcium chloride) to the bucket itself; we are trying to pull water out of the bucket, not draw it in. This is why we want a cover material with good wicking characteristics.

CONCLUSIONS

Using any of the recommended urine treatments and bowl sprays, we experienced zero odor for at least 3 days, and greatly reduced odor for up to a week. There is no reason to leave the jug longer than that. Mill work shavings are our favorite solids media, but many things will work, according to availability and personal preferences. Placing TP in a separate bag reduces odor by improving coverage and reduces volume by several times, but it works either way. We let short-term guests do as they like; if they can separate the pee and the poop, that’s victory enough. Hanging a small pouch of a pool chlorine powder inside the rim also reduced odor.

We had low expectations when we started this little project, procrastinating for years. How could a bucket ever serve our needs, in other than the crudest sense? In fact, we were stunned by how efficient desiccating toilets are. It suits our daysailing and short-term cruising needs far better than any portable head ever did. Odor is nearly zero, use is simple, and clean-up back at the dock simpler and less unpleasant; just seal the a bag and pitch it in a dumpster, and dump the urine in any toilet. We can see no advantage to conventional portable toilets, other than economy. Hopefully, with increased demand prices will fall, since they are simple constructions.

Desiccating toilets may also be superior to holding tank systems for sustained cruising in areas, such as freshwater lakes and estuaries, where pumpout facilities are far between. Some advocates prefer desiccating toilets for all applications, but we still see merit in a well designed holding tank system for larger boats cruising longer distances.

Composting takes time and space. We tested Air Head and Ecolet (“Composting Marine Heads,” November 2002) and found them functional, efficient, and a good bit bigger than traditional marine heads. And although the composting process certainly gets a start, it won’t get far in a head that is in continuous use.

A first glance, the C-head looks like a gussied up seat-and-bucket, but in fact they paid great attention to design basics. Instead of a horizontal mixer that tears through the waste, breaking it up, the motion gently rolls the waste into the media, covering it and eliminating odor without making a mess. This makes the bucket easier to dump and to clean.

For daysailors, bags are less messy to use, but you can make a bag-ready conversion for daysailing by simply putting a 3.5 gallon in place of the 5-gallon bucket or by cutting out a half moon section of the rim of any 5-gallon bucket to accommodate the urine funnel.

Visit the C-Head web site for information and a full discussion of the relative merits of churn and churnless methods ( www.c-head.com/post/churning-vs-churnless-versions ).

As we have explained, the same process can be accomplished without churning, but it uses more media and the user will have to cover their waste after each use.

C-head sells far more churn than churnless models, but they do make churnless models ($35 deduction).

Bottom line: We found the C-head to be well-finished and sturdy, and we couldn’t think of anything about it we could improve. Simple is good. Price is $699 for the basic churn model.

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Hi Darrell, thanks for the article. Could you offer a link or hint where I could follow up on “… there are DIY kits that include key parts, like a molded plastic urine diverter…?”

I am contemplating longer (> 2 nights) stays on my 1995 Hunter h23.5, which was originally equipped with a 2.5 gal. Dometic, similar to your Corsair.

Seems like maybe there was some info in the print magazine and that didn’t make it into this electronic version. ?

We’ve been using a Natures Head “composting” toilet on a Macgregor 26M for the past 8 summers. We live aboard for 2 months in Summer at a marina so aren’t using the Head daily. However we’ve found the toilet works well. It’s solid capacity for two of us is around 17 days of use. We’ve been out sailing for up to 10 straight days and never experienced any odours. We use Coir ( coconut husks) as the desiccant. We vent it to a nicro solar vent. Toilet paper is bagged not put in the toilet. Clean up/emptying is easy and not smelly at all. Compared to our neighbours having to pump out, worrying about capacity, mess with Joker valves and the smell, we feel we’ve got the better deal.

I sail a Freedom 30. I singlehand mostly so my strategy may not be applicable to all.

I removed all of my head plumbing and holding tank five years ago. It was ridiculous, taking up lots of room and bizantine in its complexity. I never used it having transitioned to wag bags many years ago. I plugged the base of my marine toilet and it serves as a wag bag holder now.

I became aware of the urine mix issue about the same time I removed the holding tank. I started diverting by using my pee bottle, after all, we are peeing much more than #2 so you need somewhere to go when it is not possible or appropriate to pee overboard so a pee bottle has been part of my gear for a long time. One must carefully choose a bottle for proper opening size BTW.

This works quite well for me but those wag bags can smell like the Dickens even with no liquid in them. I tried coconut coir as a dessicant and that was a partial success but I still got smell. I then began storing the used bags in a 5 gal sealed home Depot bucket. But this felt like back to the past. Maybe not as sloshy as a holding tank, still…

About a year ago I came across the laveo dry flush toilet. It is a pretty interesting device, but no way I am paying a grand for the thing. Also it is big.

However, the Laveo did have one huge benefit. It contained waste in a mylar wrapper ( read about the toilet to see how it works, it’s kinda wild).

They claim once wrapped, no smell due to mylar impermeability. The wrapped waste simply stays in the toilet which will accomodate maybe 15 bombing runs.

I wanted to test this assertion so bought a pack of 1/2 gal sealable mylar bags on Amazon.

Absolutely amazing! When I place a used wag bag in the mylar bag and seal it…no odor at all, even with urine involved.

These can then be stored in some safe spot for shore disposal.

Mylar is not biodegradable so if you have misgivings about this, the wag bags can be emptied into the trash and the mylar bags reused.

This current Waypoints is very informative, but your editorial staff should have checked to make sure the links mentioned work. (IE give a date and issue numbe not just a page number). Also C-Head has been out of business for over 2 years and the price of their base model had risen to over $1100. I paid for one and never received it. There are several new entries in this market now under $500, maybe it’s time for a PS update?

Glad to see this topic addressed again. Like other folks, I was appalled at the price of the Air Head and similar products. I had looked into the C-Head as well. We even paid a visit to their office/manufacturing facility in Florida before they relocated and subsequently closed shop. I liked the idea of the unit but thought it was grossly overpriced. Based on what I’ve read in sev eral boating publications,I’m very happy that I didn’t go that route! I have an “85 Macgregor 25 which had a traditional PortaPotti when I bought it. Those devices always reminded me of an outhouse on the water. Stinky and very unpleasant to service. Since I’ve been refurbing my Mac 25, I wanted to change her head facility. I thought about a DIY dessicating head but with all the other things I had going on I decided to look at current commercially available solutions. These aren’t nearly as pricey as the churning units. They are a bit more fancy than the WAG Bag approach. I finally settled on a unit from Trelino, a German company (mytrelino.com). It has a modern European esthetic with clean lines. It is easy to service and is available in two lines each of which has three sizes offered. The medium unit fit the confined space in my boat. (BTW: I have no financial interest in this company.) There is also another German company, Boxio, with a similar type toilet. I ordered both and compared them side-by-side as to foot print and seating comfort. I prefer the look and feel of the Trelino. So far, it has worked well for me.

Well done article describing these heads and there use, Darrell. My son bought an Air Head but for my little 27′ Pacific Seacraft Orion that and other commercial models were too big so I built my own with a mixer (Youtube: Trails and Sails). I would add that we (2 of us) stir after each use and twice a day and use the coconut Coir, changing about 2 weeks. After use we spray the diverter with 1:2 dilution vinegar. I bought a bottle of Nilodor concentrate but have yet found a need to use it.

Thanks for the informative article. I’m disappointed at the complexity/cost of these solutions. With misgivings I bought a Thetford 345 a few years ago for my new 27’ tri and have been very happy with it for me and often one crew mostly cruising offshore for up to two months. I read a lot of the suggestions RV users posted and haven’t researched the ecology involved but it seems OK. First, the flush system is hopeless and wasteful. A one quart container of fresh water judiciously used works for 3-4 ‘flushes’. Second, dissolving bowl liners are essential. Third, an initial small dose of Napi-San takes care of the odour, with a subsequent sprinkle if needed. My partner is particularly sensitive to odour and speaks well of it. Continuous use by two people is good for five to seven days. Then it can be simply dumped offshore beyond the 3 mile limit. While unpleasant, it beats a shore trip. Perhaps our success is that virtually all our pee is in a bottle or bucket. I c the 345 as it has adequatez’ dangle room’, at least for me.

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Composting head options

When we first bought our Pacific Seacraft, Maria 31, the plumbing systems were in pretty bad shape, the head and black tank being the most serious issue. The previous owner had removed the original black tank and run a hose from the head to a collapsible five-gallon jug in the bilge. It was unsanitary and cringeworthy. Further inspection revealed that the old pump-out line had been semi-abandoned and stuffed into the space between the settee and the hull. The line was old and clogged by decades of dried-out waste. There was less than an inch of clearance and, should someone have been daft enough to try using it for its intended purpose, a crack in the line would have spewed sewage down along the inside of the hull and into the bilge. The whole setup needed to be replaced. 

At first we debated installing a traditional marine head. In order to do this, we would need a new black tank and pump-out line. Then we could look forward to all the unpleasantness that comes along with traditional marine heads. Odors can be controlled and minimized with chemical treatments, lots and lots of cleaning solutions and open port lights. But that often means time and effort refocused from enjoying the boat onto odor control. There is also the issue of extra chemicals being pumped into the ocean all in order to avoid nauseating smells. Even marine and ocean-safe cleaners can have an effect on the marine environment.    Looking at alternatives Deciding that a traditional marine head was probably not the best bet for us, we started looking at composting heads. There was a lot of conversation online about them but not many out on the water for us to look at. That being the case, research was our best solution. What we found was refreshing. Composting toilets don’t require a black tank or chemical treatments. Instead, the toilet is the storage unit. Since they trap all waste products within the toilet itself, the odor and mess of a traditional head is negated. In addition, they are very easy to install and require little maintenance other than the occasional emptying.

How it works is relatively simple. The composting head is an all-in-one fully functioning unit in which solids and liquids are stored and separated. Liquids are collected in a bottle toward the front of the head. The liquids bottle can be easily removed and poured out, either offshore or down a restroom drain. Solids are collected and composted separately in a drum under the lid of the head. A base of absorbent material like newspaper, husks or wood shavings is typically used as a composting starter. A handle is mounted on the side of the drum that stirs the solid material for aeration and effective decomposition. What little gas there is, is vented from the body of the drum to the exterior of the boat. The only difficulty in using a composting head is muscle control. Liquid and solid deposits need to be made separately for proper containment. No special cleaners or bowl treatments are needed. 

The head is mounted to the sole of the boat by a mounting plate and brackets. This plate holds the toilet in place and makes it possible for the drum and liquids bottle to be removed easily when necessary. Since there is no separate black tank and the collection bin is part of the unit, the head does sit a bit taller than a traditional marine head. This height difference must be taken into consideration when contemplating options. 

How often the head needs to be emptied depends entirely upon how often it is used. A full-time live-aboard may need to empty the bottle every other day, and the tank every other week. We are seasonal sailors and only need to empty the tank once a season and the bottle every other week. It is not very difficult or time consuming, though taking the head apart for the solids disposal does have a little bit of a learning curve. 

Three popular options There are three primary manufacturers of composting marine heads: Air Head, Nature’s Head and C-Head. They all function in basically the same way, but each have a unique design and their own set of quirks. 

The Air Head option is perhaps the most popular composting toilet for boats, and it is the one we chose for our own. There are options for a marine or household seat size, which is very convenient considering the limited space of a typical sailboat head. From back to front the entire toilet is 18 inches deep. It stands an overall 20 inches tall. The solids tank sits in the base and is secured to the mounting bracket by two wing nuts. There are also two handles on the side of the tank to make lifting it out easier. The mixing handle sticks out from one side and, when considering placement, the full range of motion must be examined. The liquids bottle is held in place at the front of the unit with tabs that extend up from the mounting bracket. The seat is secured to the solids tank with wing nuts and sealed with a rubber gasket. There is a built-in funnel that directs the liquids away from the solids tank and to the liquids bottle at the front. 

To empty the liquids bottle, simply unscrew the two wing nuts and lift the bottle away. The waste can be poured down a restroom drain or overboard if the vessel is far enough out to sea to comply with pump-out laws. To empty the solids tank, first remove the seat and lid by loosening the wing nuts at the front and top of the solids tank. Next, twist and lift the seat up and off the tank then set it aside. Unscrew the two wing nuts holding the tank in place and lift it out. Empty the solid waste into a garbage bag and dispose of it.    The Air Head costs $1,029. This is a fully inclusive price and there are no additional pieces that must be purchased. Additional holding tanks and spare bottles can be purchased but are not necessary for initial setup. Visit the Air Head website, www.airheadtoilet.com , for full specs and options. 

The Nature’s Head toilet is very similar in design, function and maintenance. The entire unit is 21 inches wide, 19 inches deep and 20 inches tall. There is an option for mixing handles that can reduce the width from 21 inches to 17 inches for conserving space. The unit overall, is a little bigger than the Air Head, but this allows for more stability. 

The solids tank is located under the seat and the liquids bottle is separate and at the front of the head. Rather than being secured in place by two wing nuts, the bottle sits in a tray that is integrated into the mounting plate, as does the solids tank. The seat is latched in place over the solids tank and rests atop the liquids bottle, further holding it in place. To empty the head, simply raise the latches on both sides of the seat and lift it away. The bottle can then be pulled out of the holding tray and emptied, as can the solids tank.  

For the Nature’s Head, prices start at $925 and can range up to $965, depending on handle and bottle options. There are no extra parts that need to be purchased for the installation and in a single afternoon this head can be set and ready for use. For more info visit Nature’s Head at www.natureshead.net .  

The C-Head option is more common for off-the-grid housing and RVs, but they are made with marine applications in mind as well. This unit looks the most like a conventional toilet. The seat is a little larger and there are four different size options available depending on installation needs. All four models are 13.25 inches wide and 18 inches tall. The models range in depth from 18 inches to 15 inches, and have slightly different shapes for bulkhead and corner sets. 

As with the previous two models, the C-Head separates the solid and liquid waste. The primary difference is how this is done. The liquids are collected in a non-secured bottle set inside an inset within the housing of the unit. The design does not include a predesigned bottle but suggests using a milk jug or similar bottle. The solids tank is built into the C-Head housing and requires emptying every 10 to 15 uses. To empty, lift the lid and pull the collection tank or bottle out. 

The cost of a C-Head starts at $609 and, depending on options, can cost up to roughly $680. This does not include the mounting hardware or the liquids collection bottle. While this option is the least expensive it also requires a bit more effort to get ready. For more info visit C-Head’s website at www.c-head.com .  

Composting heads are safe for the environment, easy to use, clean and virtually odorless. There is no pump-out hassle, and disposing of waste is easy. For all these reasons, a composting head made the most sense for us. 

Sarah Moore is a mother, writer, adventurer, sailor, backpacker, and avid splasher of puddles. Her work has appeared in Maine Boats Homes & Harbors, Adventure Hats, The Sandy River Review and Doire Press.

By Ocean Navigator

Best Marine Composting Toilets For Sailboats

Composting toilets are a smart and environmentally-friendly option for marine sanitation.

The best composting toilets for sailboats are the Air Head Mobile toilet, the Nature's Head self-contained toilet, the Separett Villa 9215 toilet, the Sun-Mar Compact electric toilet, and the Pikkuvihrea waterless composting dry toilet.

In this article, we'll review five of the best composting toilets for sailboats. Additionally, we'll cover the legality of composting marine toilets in the United States, along with the fundamentals of self-contained composting sanitation systems.

The information used in this article was sourced directly from composting toilet manufacturers and reference guides for the United States Coast Guard sanitation rules. Additionally, we considered the recommendations of sailors who use and install composting toilets in sailboats.

Table of contents

Are Marine Composting Toilets Different?

Many people wonder if there's a difference between standard composting toilets and marine composting toilets. The answer is complicated, is it depends on the brand and the boat. Many standard composting toilets, which are designed for houses, work perfectly fine on sailboat applications, while others definitely do not.

All of the models on this list can be used on boats, though some require varying levels of modification to be sanitary and to work properly. Positive ventilation is almost always required for a functioning composting toilet, and this can usually be accomplished with a simple low-volume DC fan and a pipe.

Composting Toilet Legality

But what about the Coast Guard? Are there different rules for both with composting toilets? Yes, but in many cases having a composting toilet is actually easier. The Coast Guard's primary concern with toilets is where the waste goes. As long as it doesn't end up in the water where it's not supposed to, then it usually isn't a problem.

That means no dumping or pumping in areas where you're usually not allowed to empty a septic tank. The rules refer to toilets as Marine Sanitation Devices or MSDs. There are different types of MSDS that are subject to different requirements.

According to the EPA, composting toilets are usually considered Type III MSDs , which do not have to be certified by the Coast Guard. They can therefore be used anywhere a Type III MSD can be used as long as they're installed properly and don't discharge waste in unapproved locations.

Requirements vary between boats based on size. Be sure to check Coast Guard, state, and local requirements for your specific boat size and configuration before installing a different toilet.

Choosing the Best Sailboat Composting Toilet

Composting toilets are still fairly new arrivals to the market, so it can be difficult to figure out which one to choose. There are not a whole lot of composting toilets that can be used on boats, given the nature of composting waste in an enclosed environment. That said, there are a few qualifications that make composting toilets ideal for marine use.

First, a marine composting toilet should be entirely self-contained and sanitary. This is especially important in a small enclosed environment like a sailboat head. Additionally, all areas that contain liquid should be leak-proof, and the ventilation pipe should be adaptable for use on a boat.

Given that marine toilets are subject to rolling, they should have sufficient space in the holding tanks to prevent waste from splashing back up the toilet during heeling or rough weather. They should also be compact enough to fit well in a sailboat head.

Best 5 Composting Toilets for Sailboats

We scoured the internet and found five of the best composting toilets for use in sailboats. These toilets come in multiple shapes and sizes, and there's one available for almost every vessel size and configuration.

Though most of these toilets are not specifically designed for marine use, their characteristics make them suitable for adaptation (though some modification may be required).

1. Air Head Mobile Composting Toilet

The Air Head composting toilet  is the go-to model for sailboats and powerboats. It's been featured and reviewed and famous publications such as Cruising World, Bluewater Sailing, and Practical Sailor, and it's a favorite of boat builders in many areas.

The simple and self-contained system does away with complex pipes and sanitation tanks without causing unpleasant smells or unsafe conditions. The toilet itself is quite compact, though it hardly resembles typical marine toilets. It features separate holding tanks for liquid and solid waste, which keeps everything efficient and sanitary.

When you purchase the toilet, you purchase your boat's entire sanitation system (more or less), and it's extremely easy to install. All you have to do is hook up the ventilation hose properly, and you'll have a composting head with everything you need to get started.

The airhead composting toilet is one of the most compact units on the market, and it still features all of the typical components found on proper composting toilets. It's safe to use in a rolling and pitching environment, as its self-contained holding tanks are designed to resist leakage.

Overall, the Air Head mobile composting toilet is the best option for sailboats, especially if you're removing an existing head. It's affordable and designed specifically for mobile applications. It's made in the USA with the highest quality materials and most reliable parts.

2. Nature's Head Self Contained Composting Toilet

The Nature's Head self-contained composting toilet  is a proven and time-tested product that made a name for itself in tiny houses and off-grid cabins over the years. Its basic design principles are quite similar to the Air Head mobile composting toilet, as this configuration has proven to be quite reliable and pleasant for users.

It's larger than the Air Head composting toilet, but it's still compact enough to fit in most sailboat bathrooms. This model has also seen fairly extensive use on sailboats, even though it's not specifically designed for marine applications.

The chambers are separated, sealed, and lashed together with heavy-duty metal latches. This makes them quite impervious to the rolling and pitching that you're likely to encounter in the cabin of a sailboat. Additionally, the Nature's Head self-contained composting toilet is simple to operate and long-lasting.

Operation is simple, and this composting toilet's holding tanks have a very large capacity. According to the manufacturer, the toilet can be used full-time by two people and emptied only every 4 to 6 weeks. This is great for liveaboards if they don't have to worry about emptying their storage tanks in a place where they're not allowed to.

The design of the Nature's Head composting toilet is modern, which is why it can be so compact and yet highly sanitary. It weighs a mere 28 pounds empty, which means that it will not throw off the balance of your boat when installed.

3. Separett Villa 9215 Composting Toilet

The Separett Villa 9215 composting toilet  isn't what you'd traditionally consider a marine toilet, but its design is robust and simple enough to adapt to marine applications. It's a self-contained unit with positive ventilation and separate sealed tanks, which makes it a good candidate for marine use.

It operates on AC or DC power, which is convenient for vessels that are typically wired for 12-volt direct current. Since the unit is entirely self-contained and features a separate gray water tank, it should qualify as a Type III Marine Sanitation Device (MSD).

Solid waste is contained inside of a disposable liner bag, which makes it sanitary and convenient for offloading periodically at the dock. If you have a little more space to work with, the Separett Villa 9215 composting toilet is a good option that's worth considering.

4. Sun-Mar Compact Electric Self-Contained Composting Toilet

The Sun-Mar composting toilet  is a self-contained and sanitary unit that makes an excellent option for a boat with a larger head. Though the toilet isn't designed specifically for marine use, Sun-Mar toilets are well-known for use in moving tiny homes and other non-stationary applications.

The Sun-Mar composting toilet is quite advanced, as it includes a thermostatically controlled heater to produce the best quality compost. Additionally, it features electric fans for ventilation that draw minimal power.

The unit is relatively lightweight and entirely self-contained. It's larger than some of the other models on this list, though it's an excellent representation of industry-standard composting toilets. The unit requires a 2" ventilating stack, which is common and usually made of a lightweight and easy to work with material such as PVC or ABS.

5. Pikkuvihrea Waterless Composting Dry Toilet

The Pikkuvihrea waterless composting toilet  is the simplest model on our list. It can be adapted for marine applications, though it's probably best suited for houseboats or liveaboard sailboats. The model is entirely self-contained and features very few separate parts.

Unlike most composting toilets, this model comes with virtually everything you need to install and use the toilet. This includes all the necessary hoses, vent pipes, and inserts. The model doesn't have a separate sealed container for liquids, which could be a downside on sailboats (especially in rough water).

Overall, the Pikkuvihrea waterless composting toilet is an affordable and simple composting toilet that will get the job done. If you need a toilet in an extra compartment, or if you're shopping on a budget, the Pikkuvihrea composting toilet should meet the mark. It's lightweight and easy to use and requires no water or drain plumbing.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Upgrading Your Marine Toilet

• By Jen Brett
• Updated: July 7, 2020

Just about every sailor has a head story, which is usually humorous and quite likely fairly gross. These stories typically include massive clogs, holding-tank issues, or pump malfunctions that occur at just the wrong time (really, is there a right time?), followed by a debate over marine and environmental issues and the merits of replacing the whole marine toilet system with just a bucket. And while a bucket may eliminate plumbing and holding tanks, the experience of using and dumping said tub leaves something to be desired. Fortunately, sailors today have more boat toilet choices than in the past, and those choices are more reliable and cost efficient than ever.

Unlike household toilets, which are all pretty much the same, marine toilets come in different shapes and sizes and have different flush mechanisms and tank options, so you can design a system that works for your boat, budget, and cruising plans. While the emphasis here will be on what’s available in marine heads, this is also the time to take a look at what the experts refer to as the marine-sanitation-device system. New, high-quality, sanitation-grade hoses, a clear vent hose, and a new or scrubbed-out holding tank will go a long way to ensuring that the system operates as efficiently and as free of odor as possible. If replacing your head and related sanitation gear is in your future, you may want to consider an upgrade to an electric head, a vacuum head, or even a composting head. Or if you’re on a tight budget, you can always go back to basics, so to speak.

Manual Boat Toilets ($200 to $1,750)

Keeping it simple certainly has its merits, and manual boat toilets have done the job for years. From the venerable (but now hard to find) Wilcox-Crittenden Skipper head to the widely available Jabsco manual head ($200), cruising sailors have relied on these due to ease of use, simple system designs, readily available rebuild kits, and, in the case of the Jabsco, low replacement cost. If you’re going to replace your head with another manual boat toilet, consider looking for one that’s pumped with a back-and-forth motion, such as the Groco K-H manual head ($1,750), because many people find this easier than an up-and-down motion. A bronze base is more robust than a plastic one and may hold up longer, too, and a large joker valve clogs less frequently.

Electric Marine Toilets ($550 to more than $1,600)

A common marine toilet upgrade is to go electric, which can sometimes be as simple as installing an electric pump in an already compatible system. An electric marine toilet eliminates the need to manually pump, pump, pump to clear the bowl. Electric heads also typically include a macerator as well, which is similar to a garbage disposal and grinds up waste and paper before discharge into the holding tank (or overboard, if you’re offshore). All you do is push a button. This simplicity is nice if you frequently have landlubbers aboard. “They’re easy to use for those who come on board and aren’t familiar with a marine system, and they do a good job of chopping up any solids before it enters the sanitation hose, reducing the possibility of a clog,” says John Corbishley of Ocean Link ( oceanlinkinc.com ), a marine-systems specialist with an office in Portsmouth, Rhode Island.

Some electric marine toilets, such as the Jabsco Lite-Flush ($659), are designed as a direct replacement for a specific manual head, which typically makes for easier installation. “When choosing a macerating electric head, another element that we consider is access to the moving parts,” Corbishley continues. “If they’re located in more than one area, like a locker or under a platform, they’re much harder to service. The macerator blades are one of the major components to fail when the wrong thing is introduced to the toilet, so they need to stand up to the job.”

Electricity consumption, which is almost always a concern on cruising boats, is something to think about when switching to an electric marine toilet. Corbishley says that the draw on the electrical system is minimal on a typical modern cruising boat. However, he notes that when the head is used, there is a brief load burst of between 20 and 30 amps, so each head should have its own breaker, either at the boat’s panel or a separate breaker somewhere else.

An electric macerating toilet that Corbishley recommends to his customers who are looking to upgrade the head on their sailboats is Saniflo’s SaniMarin (from $670). He notes that the parts are all located under the china bowl and that by undoing three screws, you can pivot the unit and gain access to those inner workings. The macerator blade is stainless steel, and the pump is quite powerful, which reduces clogs.

If nothing’s too good for your boat and you’re truly looking for a throne, Tecma’s X-Light carbon-fiber head may suit your fancy. It’s the most expensive head that we could find (not to mention the coolest-looking one!), at prices that start at just over $10,000.

Vacuum Marine Toilets ($400 to $2,000)

Vacuum systems have been used on larger poweryachts for many years. They work well; however, since the systems are usually large and use fresh water to flush, many sailors have stayed away from them. A new product from Dometic may change that.

The SailVac holding-tank system, when paired with one of its VacuFlush marine toilets ($1,670 for both), is specifically designed for the small spaces typically found on most sailboats ( editor’s note July 2020: Dometic does not seem to be producing the SailVac any longer ). The SailVac combines a vacuum pump, vacuum reservoir, and holding tank into one unit. A real benefit of vacuum systems is that although they use fresh water to flush, they use only a very modest amount, usually around a pint or so. They also typically use much less power (three amps at 12 volts DC for the SailVac) than a standard macerating electric head.

Popular among sailors for its reliability, the Lavac head (from $440) also uses vacuum pressure to clear the bowl, but it works differently than the SailVac system. When you close the lid on the Lavac, a seal forms. A diaphragm pump, the only moving part, then creates a vacuum, which pulls out the waste and draws in the flush water. After a few seconds, the vacuum breaks, and the toilet is ready to be used again.

After using a Lavac head on some other boats, cruising sailor Brian Cole decided to install one on his own vessel. After using it for a couple of years, he offers a few thoughts. On the plus side, since the pump is external and has simple gaskets, the Lavac is easy to fix and rarely clogs.

However, Cole finds that the Lavac uses more water for a full flush than does a manual head, and the normal installation requires a user to wait about 30 seconds before being able to open the lid, which can be a problem if there’s an ill person on board. “Other than that,” Cole says, “I’d recommend the Lavac over any head that we’ve ever had or used on board. The simplicity is wonderful. The installation does require a little more thought, but the long-term repair benefits are worth it.”

Composting Toilets ($800 to $1,000)

A relative newcomer to the marine-toilet marketplace, composting heads are starting to make their way onto more boats. Such composting heads as the Air Head ($1,030) or Nature’s Head ($925) offer a major benefit over other systems in that they require no through-hulls. Both toilets work in the same way: Moist, crumbled peat moss is put in the composting chamber at the bottom portion of the toilet. When the toilet is used, liquid waste is channeled into a separate tank, while solid waste goes into the composting chamber. You turn a crank handle, which agitates the contents; the process to transform it all into compost begins immediately. An integral 12-volt vent fan keeps the compost dry and hastens the process. According to Air Head, the solid tank has enough capacity for a couple to use it during a month of living aboard before needing to empty it; however, the liquid tank needs to be emptied every two or three days.

Although sailors switching over to a composting head will definitely have to deal with a learning curve—not to mention the job of removing all parts of the previous system—the composting head, when set up and maintained properly, should be free of odor, and you’ll never have to worry about clogged hoses or finding pumpout stations again.The marine head has certainly come a long way from its beginnings as a hole in the bow of a ship, and while you’ll still probably need to give thorough instructions on head procedures to all your onboard guests, with the many advances in toilets and M.S.D. systems, those gross, though amusing, head stories may become a thing of the past.Installing a new marine toilet is within the skill set of most do-it-yourselfers, but if you’re completely redesigning your system or, say, upgrading from a manual head to a vacuum system, you may want to consult with someone who has experience with marine plumbing.

Jen Brett, CW senior editor, is a liveaboard sailor who’s somehow managed to convince her husband to do all of the head rebuilds—so far.

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Composting Head Article in SAIL Magazine

“K.I.S.S. Keep it simple, Sailor,” Author Annie says in this article in the June/July 2020 issue of SAIL Magazine . Because that’s exactly what our swap to a composting head has done for Phillip and me—made life aboard our boat so much simpler, safer, sweeter-smelling even! We will never regret the decision. While I’m excited to continue sharing our BVIs voyage next time, I can never help sharing when I see my name (and face!) in print. Look at Author Annie, go! Many thanks to the hardworking team at SAIL for putting this fantastic piece together. Be sure to grab a copy and check out the article! If you’ve ever pondered swapping your standard marine head to a composting head, you’ll find this piece helpful. I have also written at length about our reasoning, research, and decision to swap to a composting head as well as put together a video showing the install . This is some seriously interesting shit! Sorry, had too. ; )

Enjoy the article SAIL readers!

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3 thoughts on “ composting head article in sail magazine ”.

I bet you guys are loving that wine cellar! 😉

Indeed, indeed. Boxed or bottled, you can never have enough wine on a boat!

Truth sista!

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