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What is a Marconi Rig

Discussion in ' Boat Design ' started by Velsia , Aug 24, 2013 .

Velsia Floater

Hey, We all know it is the predecessor of the Bermudian rig but I am hoping some of the more learned participants of this forum hopefully can answer this question for me once and for all and definitively. What defines the Marconi rig? Angle of Leech Length of boom Design year of rig Standing rigging All of the above or something more? I would be extremely grateful for anyone who could answer this for me as I am going to meet some friends at a prestigious classic yacht regatta in October and I want to finally put our debate to end!  

Crowsnest Junior Member

Hi Velsia: The name Marconi is a kind of nickname for the Bermudian rig. It cames from the first times of Radio invention. Those old aerials where very slender vertical bars made from a single part. Their slenderness leaded to fit them with a joint of wires arranged in a more or less pyramidal form. That kind of arrangement was adopted by light Bermudian rigged boats due to its simplicity. As from the Old times seamen point of view, those rigs were more similar to an aerial than to a real mast, hence they gave it that nickname. Regards  

sharpii2 Senior Member

A 'marconi rig is a stiffly stayed Bermudan rig. Once the airplane was invented, it became known that higher Aspect Ratio (span squared/Area) produced more lift than short low aspect ratio ones. This new information was quickly adopted by the sail boat racing community. The original Bermudan rig had a much longer Boom in relation to the mast height, and had a small jib. To get a taller mast (to have a higher Aspect Ratio sail) The mast had to be lighter. This is because, to double the mast length, you have to cut its weight in half, in order for its Vertical weight moment to equal that of the shorter mast. The elaborate staying was to make this possible by turning bending loads into compression loads. Today 'Bermuda Rig' and 'Marconi Rig' are considered to be one and the same and the terms are used interchangeably. I think that is a mistake. When talking about rig that has a mainsail, with just a mast and a boom, and no gaff or yard, and maybe just a pair of lower shrouds and a head stay, you are talking about a 'Bermudan Rig'. If this same rig has elaborate staying, such as upper and lower shrouds and long spreaders, it is a 'Marconi Rig'. Even gaff rigs had elaborate staying, as racing fleets, using that rig, did all they could to reduce weight aloft. Typically such rigs had mostly vertical gaffs, with the lower shrouds and spreaders set just above the throat hoist. The upper shrouds went over the spreader ends to the top of the mast, just as they do with the Bermudan rig counterpart. A major advantage elaborate staying is it allows larger jibs. And a properly set jib is much more effective than a properly set main of the same area. So, the two rigs, Bermudan and Marconi, have similar shaped mains, but different design goals. The Bermudan rig is to get sail area inexpensively, where as the Marconi one is to get the maximum structural efficiency for its rig. A Bermudan Rig without elaborate staying, IMHO, is not a Marconi Rig.  

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Wow thanks very much for that. When I recount this info back to my pals I might be able to sound like the professional I am! As an aside, can anyone recommend any good books on the history of yacht design? Cheers  

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Why is the Bermudian rig also called the Marconi rig?

Modern recreational sailboats are generally equipped with a Bermuda rig, with a triangular mainsail and one or two headsails. This configuration is also often referred to as the Marconi rig, but why is the Italian's name associated with it?

A rig present in Bermuda for centuries

Today, the vast majority of recreational sailboats are equipped with a Bermuda rig. Composed of a triangular mainsail with a strong elongation and, most often, a headsail, it progressively supplanted in Western countries at the beginning of the 20th century the auric and houari rigs, which dominated there with their trapezoidal sails. But this efficient sail plan was known for several centuries in the American archipelago of Bermuda, which gave it its name. Its origins date back to the 1600's, an evolution of the lateen sail rig, whose antenna would have been fixed directly on the deck by eliminating the mast.

Simultaneous development of sailing and radio

But what is the link between the Italian Marconi and the Bermuda archipelago? Nothing! But nevertheless Marconi rigging and Bermuda rigging have become almost synonymous.

Guglielmo Marconi was born on April 25, 1874 in Bologna into a wealthy family. He was fascinated by developments in physics and in 1895 he began experiments on the waves discovered by Heinrich Rudolf Hertz in 1888. As his experiments progressed, he developed wireless communication techniques, filing various patents and achieving the first transatlantic radio transmission on 12 December 1901. This performance allowed him to obtain with Karl Ferdinand Braun the Nobel Prize in 1909. His name and that of the Marconi Wireless Telegraph Company became famous, associated with the antennas that flourished for radio communication.

At the same time, sailboats and regattas experienced a golden age of innovation , driven by wealthy owners. Rigs became longer and Bermuda mainsails appeared in the yachting world. Because of their lengthening, the mainsails required higher masts than those of their Houari counterparts. In order for them to resist without requiring too large sections, the designers used the same techniques as on land to hold the radio antennas. Guyed spreaders appeared on the boats, recalling the silhouette of the radio towers. This was enough for some to call these "new" Marconi rigs.

If his support to the fascist regime of Mussolini have tarnished his glory, the name of Marconi is now well anchored in the vocabulary of boaters.

The Bermuda Rig: A Classic Sailboat Design

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 28, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer: Bermuda rig

The Bermuda rig, also known as the Marconi rig, is a type of sailing rig commonly used on modern sailboats. It features a triangular mainsail with one or more headsails. Its efficient design allows for good maneuverability and performance in various wind conditions.

1) Exploring the History and Function of the Bermuda Rig

When it comes to sailing, one cannot overlook the importance of a proper rig. And among the various rigging systems used worldwide, the Bermuda rig stands out as an elegant and efficient design. In this blog post, we will take you on a journey through time to explore the captivating history and impressive functionality of the Bermuda rig.

The origins of the Bermuda rig can be traced back to the early 17th century in Bermuda (hence its name), where it was first developed by local sailors who were constantly seeking innovative ways to improve their vessels’ performance. This distinctive triangular sail setup quickly caught on due to its remarkable advantages over other traditional rigs.

One of the key reasons behind the popularity and effectiveness of the Bermuda rig lies in its aerodynamic efficiency. Unlike older square-rigged sails that required a large crew to handle and maneuver, the triangular design optimized wind capture while reducing drag, enabling sailors to harness more power with fewer people onboard. This breakthrough revolutionized sailing by making smaller boats more manageable without compromising speed or maneuverability.

Another notable advantage of the Bermuda rig is its versatility across varying wind conditions. Its inherent ability to “spill” excess wind through twist control allows sailors to adjust their sails effortlessly, ensuring optimal performance in both light breezes and stronger gusts. The adaptability of this rig makes it an ideal choice for recreational yachts as well as high-performance racing vessels – truly illustrating its timeless appeal for seafarers of all kinds.

Over time, advancements in sailmaking technology have further enhanced the potential of the Bermuda rig. With modern materials like Dacron or carbon fiber replacing traditional canvas fabrics and innovations such as fully battened mainsails becoming commonplace, today’s sailors have even more control over their rigs’ shape and performance characteristics.

Despite numerous advancements in sail technology, one might wonder why the Bermuda rig has not been entirely superseded by newer designs. The answer lies in its fundamental elegance; the simplicity and balance of the triangular geometry offer an unparalleled efficiency that remains unrivaled to this day. While other rigs, such as the modern wing sails seen on America’s Cup boats, deliver impressive speed in certain conditions, they often come with complex control systems that require highly skilled crews to operate. The Bermuda rig offers a more accessible option for both recreational sailors and racing enthusiasts seeking a winning formula without sacrificing ease of use.

In conclusion, the Bermuda rig stands as a testament to human ingenuity in sail design. From its humble beginnings in Bermuda centuries ago, it has evolved into a versatile and efficient rig favored by sailors worldwide. The perfect fusion between history, functionality, and elegance makes the Bermuda rig a true masterpiece of naval engineering. Whether you’re exploring calm waters or chasing your next racing victory, this enduring design will continue to grace the seas for generations to come.

2) How to Sail with a Bermuda Rig: A Step-by-Step Guide

Sailing with a Bermuda rig can be an exhilarating experience, but it’s important to have a solid understanding of the rig and its components. In this step-by-step guide, we will walk you through everything you need to know to sail smoothly and confidently with a Bermuda rig.

Step 1: Familiarize Yourself with the Bermuda Rig The Bermuda rig is a triangular configuration that consists of a tall mast, a mainsail, and usually one or more headsails. Its design allows for efficient wind handling and optimal sailing performance. Take some time to study the different parts of the rig and understand how they work together.

Step 2: Set Up Properly Before setting sail, ensure that your rig is properly set up. Start by checking your mast for any signs of wear or damage. Inspect the stays and shrouds, which are cables or wires that support the mast. Make sure they are tight and secure.

Step 3: Hoist the Mainsail To hoist the mainsail, begin by attaching it securely to the halyard using appropriate attachments like shackles or clips. Slowly raise the mainsail by pulling on the halyard line while someone else helps guide it upward. Keep an eye on any potential snags or tangles as you hoist it fully.

Step 4: Adjusting Sail Trim Once your mainsail is fully raised, it’s time to adjust its trim. The goal here is to achieve an optimal balance between power and control. Begin by easing out the boom until your sails start filling nicely with wind flow from behind (known as “sailing downwind”). Experiment with different positions until you find a sweet spot where your sails maintain shape without excessive luffing.

Step 5: Utilizing Headsails If equipped with multiple headsails such as jibs or genoas, you can enhance sail control further by deploying them appropriately. Start by hoisting the desired headsail, carefully attaching it to its halyard, and raising it in a similar manner as your mainsail.

Step 6: Tacking and Jibing Tacking refers to changing direction while sailing against the wind, whereas jibing involves turning downwind. When tacking, ensure you have enough speed and momentum to complete the maneuver smoothly. Turn your helm away from the wind, simultaneously releasing the sheets (lines controlling sails) on one side while pulling them in on the other side. Jibing requires steering into the wind briefly, so ensure proper communication with your crew members to avoid any mishaps.

Step 7: Responding to Wind Shifts Whilst sailing with a Bermuda rig, you’ll encounter shifts in wind direction and intensity. Be responsive to these changes by adjusting your sails accordingly. Avoid excessive heeling (tilting) by reducing sail area during strong gusts or increasing sail area during lulls.

Step 8: Safety First! Always prioritize safety when sailing with a Bermuda rig – wear appropriate personal flotation devices (life jackets), maintain clear communication with fellow crew members, and be mindful of other vessels in your vicinity. Keep an eye on changing weather conditions and adjust your sail plan accordingly for optimal safety.

By following this step-by-step guide, you’ll be able to sail confidently with a Bermuda rig while enjoying the thrill of harnessing nature’s power. Remember that practice makes perfect; don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from each sailing experience you undertake!

3) Unraveling Your Queries: Frequently Asked Questions about the Bermuda Rig

Unraveling Your Queries: Frequently Asked Questions about the Bermuda Rig

Are you curious about the Bermuda Rig and its fascinating features? Look no further! We have compiled a list of frequently asked questions that will help unravel any uncertainties you may have. Prepare to dive into the world of sailing as we explore this unique rigging system.

1. What is the Bermuda Rig, and how does it differ from other rigging systems?

The Bermuda Rig is a type of rig commonly used in modern sailboats, known for its distinct triangular mainsail shape. Unlike traditional square-rigged sails or gaff rigs, which are prevalent in historical vessels, the Bermuda Rig relies on a single triangular sail mounted on a mast positioned near the bow of the boat.

2. Why is it called the “Bermuda” Rig?

The name “Bermuda” originates from its association with the island nation in the North Atlantic Ocean. The rig gained popularity in Bermuda during the 17th century due to its efficiency and suitability for sailing in strong winds prevalent in that region. Its success led to widespread adoption and eventually earned it this iconic name.

3. What are the advantages of using a Bermuda Rig?

One of the significant advantages of this rigging system is its simplicity and ease of use. The triangular shape allows for efficient airflow across both sides, enabling better control over sail trim and reducing drag while maximizing speed potential. Additionally, sailors appreciate its ability to be easily reefed or reduced in size during adverse weather conditions.

4. Can you explain how a Bermuda Rig works?

Certainly! The mainsail on a Bermuda Rig attaches to both sides of the mast using booms or slugs along their luff (leading edge) and battens along their leech (trailing edge). This setup creates an aerodynamically efficient surface that interacts with wind currents to generate forward propulsion. By adjusting various lines connected to different parts of the sail, sailors can manipulate the shape and position of the mainsail to optimize performance.

5. Are there any downsides to using a Bermuda Rig?

While the Bermuda Rig boasts numerous advantages, it is not without its limitations. Due to its triangular shape, downwind sailing may present challenges compared to rigs with square sails, as it may require additional equipment like spinnakers or gennakers for optimal performance in those conditions. Additionally, due to their taller masts, vessels with the Bermuda Rig may face height restrictions in certain areas like low bridges or marinas with overhead obstructions.

6. Can the Bermuda Rig be used on different types of boats?

Absolutely! The versatility of the Bermuda Rig is evident in its application across various boat types and sizes. From small dinghies and day sailors to large cruisers and even racing yachts, this rigging system has proven its adaptability and effectiveness across diverse sailing contexts.

7. Are there any alternative rigging systems similar to the Bermuda Rig?

Yes, indeed! While the Bermuda Rig reigns supreme in modern sailing, there are alternative rigs worth exploring. These include the Marconi rig (commonly used on smaller sailboats), lateen rigs (frequently found in traditional dhows), and ketch or schooner rigs (known for their multiple masts). Each rig offers unique characteristics suitable for specific sailing needs.

Now armed with a deeper understanding of the intricacies of the Bermuda Rig, you can appreciate why it remains a popular choice among sailors worldwide. Its efficiency, simplicity, and time-tested reliability have secured its place as one of history’s most iconic sailboat rigging systems. So set your course confidently and embrace the wonders of this remarkable rig – whether navigating treacherous waters or gracefully gliding into open horizons!

4) Mastering the Art of Setting Up a Bermuda Rig: Key Tips and Tricks

Title: Mastering the Art of Setting Up a Bermuda Rig: Unleashing the Secrets to Smooth Sailing!

Introduction: Setting up a Bermuda rig can be seen as both an art and a science. With its distinct triangular shape and efficient design, this rig is widely popular among sailors for its ability to catch the wind and propel vessels with grace. In this blog post, we will unlock the key tips and tricks that will elevate your sailing experience to new heights. Get ready to become a master of setting up a Bermuda rig as we harness the wind in our sails!

1) The Anatomy of Perfection: To truly master setting up a Bermuda rig, it is essential to understand its components meticulously. From masthead to boom, each part plays a crucial role in achieving optimized performance on the water. Start by investing time in studying how each piece fits together flawlessly – from securing shrouds and stays to adjusting forestays for proper mast rake – attention to detail is paramount.

2) Going with the Wind: Sailing with a Bermuda rig involves embracing not just the wind but also adapting oneself accordingly. Familiarize yourself with meteorological patterns so you can anticipate winds’ directions; understanding how various points of sail impact sail trim becomes crucial. After all, capturing every last puff of air effectively elevates both your speed and maneuverability.

3) Taming the Main Sail: The main sail is often considered the powerhouse of any boat rigged with Bermuda sails; hence perfecting its setup is vital. Begin by ensuring that battens are properly inserted, aiding stability and shape control across different conditions. Pay close attention to cunningham tension for precise luff control while keeping leech tension for optimum downwind performance.

4) Ride the High Seas Confidently with Jib Setup: Having mastered controlling your main sail, turning our focus towards configuring jibs efficiently becomes essential. Jib halyard tension dictates proper sail shape, so experiment with different tensions according to varying wind strengths. Use your cunningly designed jib sheet tracks and cars to optimize sail trim while maintaining control throughout your maneuvers.

5) Safe & Efficient Sail Handling: As in every aspect of sailing, safety should remain paramount while upholding efficiency. Familiarize yourself with proper techniques for reefing (reducing sail area) when encountering excessive winds or challenging conditions. Knowledge of efficient winch handling and maneuvering around the deck will not only save you precious time but also ensure smooth collaboration among all crew members.

6) Trial and Error – The Path to Mastery: Remember, mastering the art of setting up a Bermuda rig is an ongoing process that requires practice, patience, and persistence. Don’t shy away from experimenting with different controls and settings until you find what works best for your vessel and personal sailing style. Each voyage is a learning opportunity, enabling further refinement of your rig setup expertise.

In Summary: Setting up a Bermuda rig distinguishes itself as more than a routine task; it’s an enriching journey that enables sailors to achieve the pinnacle of performance on the water. Through meticulous attention to detail, understanding wind patterns, optimizing sail setups, and embracing curiosity-driven experimentation – you can elevate your sailing experience to new heights. So chart your course confidently and let the winds carry you towards mastering the art of setting up a Bermuda rig!

5) Understanding the Anatomy of a Bermuda Rig: Components and Their Roles

Title: Demystifying the Bermuda Rig: Delving into its Intricate Anatomy and Functionality

Introduction: Embarking on a sailing adventure requires a thorough understanding of the vessel’s rigging system. In particular, comprehending the anatomy of a Bermuda rig is essential for any sailor aiming to navigate the seas with finesse and grace. Thus, in this blog post, we will dissect each component of this highly regarded rig type, shedding light on their individual roles in ensuring smooth sailing.

1) Mast: The mast stands tall and proud as the central element of the Bermuda rig. It serves three crucial functions: supporting the sail, providing stability to the structure, and transferring wind energy from the sails to help propel the vessel forward. Typically constructed from aluminum or carbon fiber for strength and flexibility respectively, choosing an appropriate mast is pivotal for optimal performance.

2) Main Sail: Hailed as one of the most iconic features of a Bermuda rig, the main sail extends from atop the mast down towards its boom. Crafted using durable fabrics like Dacron or Mylar, it captures wind power efficiently while interacting with various controls for trim adjustments. The main sail plays a pivotal role in harnessing wind energy effectively throughout your voyage.

3) Boom: Positioned horizontally along (or below) the foot of the mainsail, you’ll find another crucial component -the boom. Acting as an extension of your mast’s function by supporting part of the mainsail’s weight and shape, this vital steel or aluminum spar ensures controlled airflow over its surface while enabling ease in trimming adjustments during different points-of-sail.

4) Mainsheet System: Aboard any Bermuda-rigged vessel, you’re likely to find a well-designed mainsheet system that allows precise control over your mainsail’s angle and power settings. Comprising blocks, sheets (lines), winches (on larger yachts), and various tackle configurations – these delicate yet powerful systems are engineered to uphold the perfect balance between vessel responsiveness and wind forces.

5) Rigid Vang: As sailors, we’ve all been acquainted with an unexpected gust of wind that threatens to overpower our carefully set sails. That’s where the rigid vang comes into play. Acting as an adjustable strut, this component tames the boom’s height during different points-of-sail, managing sail shape and minimizing excessive mainsail twist. Most often crafted from solid aluminum or carbon fiber, it grants skippers ultimate control over their rig.

6) Headsail and Jib: Completing the Bermuda rig ensemble are headsails like genoas or jibs – pivotal for maneuvering in various wind conditions. Attached to forestay cables tensioned by a turnbuckle system or furling gear allowing controlled deployment/retrieval, these secondary sails enhance aerodynamics while counterbalancing any weather helm effects.

Conclusion: Understanding every facet of a Bermuda rig enhances your mastery of these magnificent sailing vessels. From comprehending the roles of each component — the mast, main sail, boom, mainsheet system, rigid vang, headsails — to recognizing their interactions within the rigging system allows you to unveil their true essence on your seafaring journey. Embark on your next sailing adventure well-versed in this intricately designed masterpiece and experience sailing at its finest!

6) Optimizing Performance with a Bermuda Rig: Techniques for Smooth Sailing

Optimizing Performance with a Bermuda Rig: Techniques for Smooth Sailing

Ahoy, fellow sailors and enthusiasts! Today, we are diving into the fascinating world of optimizing performance with a Bermuda rig. This centuries-old sailing technique has revolutionized the way sailors navigate the open seas, offering a plethora of benefits and pushing the boundaries of what is possible on water. Join us as we explore some clever techniques that will not only make your sailing experience smoother but also elevate your prowess on the high tides.

For those unfamiliar with the term, a Bermuda rig refers to a specific type of sail configuration commonly found in modern sailing boats. Its distinct triangular sails provide several advantages over traditional square-rigged setups. So, without further ado, let’s delve into these techniques and discover how to harness the full potential of this fantastic rig.

1. Sheet it Right:

While it may sound simple, properly adjusting the sheet tension can significantly impact your vessel’s performance. When set too tightly, excess drag can slow you down–a cardinal sin when aiming for peak performance. On the other hand, if too loose, it hampers airflow around your sails and compromises efficiency. Achieving that sweet spot where your sails are firm yet still able to generate lift requires practice and attentiveness.

2. Ride those Gusts:

One key advantage of Bermuda rigs is their ability to handle varying wind conditions effectively. By keeping an eye on gusts and shifting winds while actively adapting your sail plan accordingly, you can maximize boat speed and maneuverability. Embrace these gusts as a resourceful ally rather than an unwelcome challenge by trimming sails promptly when they arrive.

3. Master the Art of Balance:

A well-balanced boat is integral to efficient sailing with a Bermuda rig. By evenly distributing weight throughout your vessel, you reduce resistance caused by imbalances in both lateral forces and displacement—an essential factor impacting overall performance in any condition. Additionally, maintaining equilibrium improves boat responsiveness, making it easier to make those swift turns that leave your fellow sailors in awe.

4. Catch the Leech:

In sailing parlance, “catching the leech” refers to skillful sail trimming, particularly along the aft edge. Utilizing cunning adjustments at this crucial area of your sail can help optimize performance significantly. If you find yourself losing too much speed due to excess backwind or turbulence, don’t be afraid to adjust and tighten the leech for a smoother ride while still harnessing those favorable winds.

5. The Cunning Art of Reefing:

Reefing is an essential technique that allows sailors to adapt their sails according to changing wind conditions. By partially reducing the overall surface area of your sails through strategically placed reef points, you achieve greater control and stability when encountering heavier gusts or stormy weather. This prudent practice not only ensures safety but also enables you to maintain optimal performance even when turbulent seas come calling.

6. Fine-Tuning Mast Rake:

The angle at which your mast leans forward or backward in relation to the vertical is known as mast rake, and fine-tuning this aspect can deliver remarkable results. A slight adjustment here can aid in achieving superior upwind speeds or enhance downwind stability, depending on your desired outcome. Experimentation is key; by finding the perfect balance for your vessel and sail configuration, you unlock its true potential on any course.

So there you have it: our guide to optimizing performance with a Bermuda rig! By skillfully implementing these techniques into your sailing endeavors, you’ll be well on your way to smooth sailing mastery. Remember that practice makes perfect, so don’t hesitate to take every opportunity available to test out these strategies and discover what works best for you and your vessel’s unique characteristics. Embrace the artistry and engineering behind this remarkable rigging method as you pave new paths on those enchanting open waters!

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Sail Rigs And Types - The Only Guide You Need

A well-designed sailboat is a thing of pure beauty. Whether you're a proud owner of one, a guest on one, or a shore-side admirer, you'll fall in love with the gliding sails, the excitement of a race, and the eco-friendly nature of these sophisticated yet magnificent vessels. With good sails, great design, and regular maintenance, sails and rigs are an important part of a sailboat.

If you’re thinking about going sailing, one of the first things you have to understand is the variety of modern sail plans. Unlike old sailboats, modern sailboats don't need huge, overlapping headsails and multiple masts just to get moving. In the past, when sailboats were heavy, keels were long, the only way to get the boat moving was with a massive relative sail area. You needed as much square footage as you could just to get your sailboat moving. But with the invention of fiberglass hulls, aluminum or composite masts, high-tensile but low diameter lines and stats, and more efficient sails, sailboats no longer need to plan for such large sail plans.. Still, there are various rig styles, from the common sloop, to the comfortable cat-rig, to the dual masted ketch and schooner, there are various sail types and rigs to choose from. The most important thing is to know the different types of sails and rigs and how they can make your sailing even more enjoyable.

There are different types of sails and rigs. Most sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. The mainsail is generally fore-and-aft rigged and is triangular shaped. Various conditions and courses require adjustments to the sails on the boats, and, other than the mainsail, most boats can switch out their secondary sail depending on various conditions.. Do you want to sail upwind or go downwind? You cannot hoist just any sail and use it. It's, therefore, of great importance to understand how and when to use each sail type.

In this in-depth article, we'll look at various sail types and rigs, and how to use them to make your sailing more enjoyable.

Table of contents

Different Sail Types

It is perhaps worth noting that a sailboat is only as good as its sails. The very heart of sailing comes in capturing the wind using artfully trimmed sails and turning that into motion. . Ask any good sailor and he'll tell you that knowing how and when to trim the sails efficiently will not only improve the overall performance of your boat but will elevate your sailing experience. In short, sails are the driving force of sailboats.

As such, it's only natural that you should know the different types of sails and how they work. Let's first highlight different sail types before going into the details.

• Jib - triangular staysail
• Spinnaker - huge balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs
• Genoa - huge jib that overlaps the mainsail
• Gennaker - a combination of a spinnaker and genoa
• Code zero - reaching genoa for light air 
• Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
• Drifter - versatile light air genoa made from particularly lightweight cloth
• Storm jib - a smaller jib meant for stormy conditions
• Trysail - This is a smaller front-and-aft sail for heavy weather

The mainsail is the principal sail on a boat. It's generally set aft of the mainmast. Working together with the jib, the mainsail is designed to create the lift that drives the sailboat windward. That being said, the mainsail is a very powerful component that must always be kept under control.

As the largest sail, and the geometric center of effort on the boat, the mainsail is tasked with capturing the bulk of the wind that's required to propel the sailboat. The foot, the term for the bottom of any sail, secures to the boom, which allows you to trim the sail to your heading. The luff, the leading edge of the sail, is attached to the mast. An idealized mainsail would be able to swing through trim range of 180°, the full semi-circle aft of the mast, though in reality, most larger boats don’t support this full range of motion, as a fully eased sail can occasionally be unstable in heavy breeze.

. As fully controlling the shape of the mainsail is crucial to sailing performance, there are many different basic mainsail configurations. For instance, you can get a full-batten mainsail, a regular mainsail with short battens, or a two-plus-two mainsail with two full-length battens. Hyper-high performance boats have even begun experimenting with winged sails which are essentially trimmable airplane wings! Moreover, there are numerous sail controls that change the shape by pulling at different points on the sail, boom, or mast. Reefing, for instance, allows you to shorten the sail vertically, reducing the amount of sail area when the boat is overpowered.

Features of a Mainsail

Several features will affect how a particular sail works and performs. Some features will, of course, affect the cost of the sail while others may affect its longevity. All in all, it's essential to decide the type of mainsail that's right for you and your sailing application.

Sail Battens, the Roach, and the Leech

The most difficult part of the sail to control, but also the most important, are the areas we refer to as the leech and the roach. The roach is the part of the sail that extends backwards past the shortest line between the clew, at the end of the boom, and the top of the mast. It makes up roughly the back third of the sail. The leech is the trailing edge of the sail, the backmost curve of the roach. Together, these two components control the flow of the air off the back of the sail, which greatly affects the overall sail performance. If the air stalls off the backside of the sail, you will find a great loss in performance. Many sail controls, including the boom vang, backstay, main halyard, and even the cunningham, to name a few, focus on keeping this curve perfect. 

As for parts of the sail itself, battens control the overall horizontal shape of the sail. Battens are typically made from fiberglass or wood and are built into batten pockets. They're meant to offer support and tension to maintain the sail shape Depending on the sail technology you want to use, you may find that full battens, which extend from luff to leech, or short battens, just on the trailing edge, are the way to go. Fully battened sails tend to be more expensive, but also higher performance.

Fully Battened Mainsails

They're generally popular on racing multihulls as they give you a nice solid sail shape which is crucial at high speeds. In cruising sailboats , fully battened mainsails have a few benefits such as:

• They prevent the mainsail from ragging. This extends the life of the sail, and makes maneuvers and trimming easier for the crew.
• It provides shape and lift in light-air conditions where short-battened mainsails would collapse.

On the other hand, fully-battened mainsails are often heavier, made out of thicker material, and can chafe against the standing rigging with more force when sailing off the wind.

Short Battens

On the other hand, you can choose a mainsail design that relies mostly on short battens, towards the leech of the sail. This tends to work for lighter cloth sails, as the breeze, the headsail, and the rigging help to shape the sail simply by the tension of the rig and the flow of the wind. The battens on the leech help to preserve the shape of the sail in the crucial area where the air is flowing off the back of the sail, keeping you from stalling out the entire rig.

The only potential downside is that these short battens deal with a little bit of chafe and tension in their pockets, and the sail cloth around these areas ought to be reinforced. If your sails do not have sufficient reinforcement here, or you run into any issues related to batten chafe, a good sail maker should be able to help you extend the life of your sails for much less than the price of a new set.

How to Hoist the Mainsail

Here's how to hoist the mainsail, assuming that it relies on a slab reefing system and lazy jacks and doesn't have an in-mast or in-boom furling system.

• ‍Maintain enough speed for steeragewhile heading up into the wind
• Slacken the mainsheet, boom vang, and cunningham
• Make sure that the lazy jacks do not catch the ends on the battens by pulling the lazy jacks forward.
• Ensure that the reefing runs are free to run and the proper reefs are set if necessary.
• Raise the halyard as far as you can depending on pre-set reefs.
• Tension the halyard to a point where a crease begins to form along the front edge
• Re-set the lazy jacks
• Trim the mainsail properly while heading off to your desired course

So what's Right for You?

Your mainsail will depend on how you like sailing your boat and what you expect in terms of convenience and performance. That being said, first consult the options that the boatbuilder or sailmakers suggest for your rig. When choosing among the various options, consider what you want from the sail, how you like to sail, and how much you're willing to spend on the mainsail.

The headsail is principally the front sail in a fore-and-aft rig. They're commonly triangular and are attached to or serve as the boat’s forestay. They include a jib and a genoa. 

A jib is a triangular sail that is set ahead of the foremost sail. For large boats, the roto-furling jib has become a common and convenient way to rig and store the jib. Often working in shifts with spinnakers, jibs are the main type of headsails on modern sailboats. Jibs take advantage of Bournoulli’s Principle to break the incoming breeze for the mainsail, greatly increasing the speed and point of any boat. By breaking the incoming wind and channeling it through what we call the ‘slot,’ the horizontal gap between the leech of the jib and the luff of the mainsail, the jib drastically increases the efficiency of your mainsail. It additionally balances the helm on your rudder by pulling the bow down, as the mainsail tends to pull the stern down. .

The main aim of the jib is to increase the sail area for a given mast size. It improves the aerodynamics of the mainsails so that your sailboat can catch more wind and thereby sail faster, especially in light air

Using Jibs on Modern Sailboats

In the modern contexts, jib’s mainly serve  increase the performance and overall stability of the mainsail. The jib can also reduce the turbulence of the mainsail on the leeward side.

On Traditional Vessels

Traditional vessels such as schooners have about three jibs. The topmast carried a jib topsail, the main foresail is called the jib, while the innermost jib is known as the staysail. The first two were employed almost exclusively by clipper ships.

How to Rig the Jibs

There are three basic ways to rig the jib.

Track Sheets - A relatively modern approach to the self-tacking jib, this entails placing all the trimming hardware on a sliding track forward of the mast. This means that on each tack, the hardware slides from one side of the boat to the other. This alleviates the need to switch sheets and preserves the trim angle on both sides, though it can be finnicky and introduce friction.

Sheet up the Mast - This is a very popular approach and for a good reason. Hoist the jib sheet up the mast high enough to ensure that there's the right tension through the tack. Whether internally or externally, the sheet returnsto the deck and then back to the cockpit just like the rest of the mast baselines. The fact the hardware doesn't move through the tacks is essential in reducing friction.

Sheet Forward - This method revolves around ensuring that the jib sheet stays under constant pressure so that it does not move through the blocks in the tacks. This is possible if the through-deck block is extremely close to the jib tack. Your only challenge will only be to return the sheet to the cockpit. This is, however, quite challenging and can cause significant friction.

Dual Sheeting - The traditional method, especially on smaller dinghies, though it is not self-tacking. This requires a two ended or two separate sheet system, where one sheet runs to a block on starboard, and the other to port. Whenever you tack or gybe, this means you have to switch which sheet is active and which is slack, which is ok for well crewed boats, but a potential issue on under-crewed boats.

Another important headsail, a genoa is essentially a large jib that usually overlaps the mainsail or extends past the mast, especially when viewed from the other side. In the past, a genoa was known as the overlapping jib and is technically used on twin-mast boats and single-mast sloops such as ketches and yawls. A genoa has a large surface area, which is integral in increasing the speed of the vessel both in moderate and light winds.

Genoas are generally characterized by the percentage they cover. In most cases, sail racing classes stipulate the limit of a genoa size. In other words, genoas are usually classified by coverage.

Top-quality genoa trim is of great importance, especially if the wind is forward of the beam. This is because the wind will first pass over the genoa before the mainsail. As such, a wrongly sheeted genoa can erroneously direct the wind over the mainsail,spelling doom to your sailing escapades. While you can perfectly adjust the shape of a genoa using the mast rake, halyard tension, sheet tension, genoa car positioning, and backstay tension, furling and unfurling a genoa can be very challenging, especially in higher winds.

That being said, here are the crucial steps to always keep in mind.

• Unload and ease the loaded genoa sheet by going to a broad reach
• Do not use the winch; just pull on the furling line
• Keep a very small amount of pressure or tension on the loaded genoa sheet
• Secure the furling line and tighten the genoa sheets
• Get on the proper point of sail
• Have the crew help you and release the lazy genoa sheets
• Maintain a small tension while easing out the furling line
• Pull-on a loaded genoa sheet
• Close or cleat off the rope clutch when the genoa is unfurled
• Trim the genoa

To this end, it's important to note that genoas are popular in some racing classes. This is because they only categorize genoas based on the fore-triangle area covered, which essentially allows a genoa to significantly increase the actual sail area. On the contrary, keep in mind that tacking a genoa is quite a bit harder than a jib, as the overlapping area can get tangled with the mast and shrouds. It's, therefore, important to make sure that the genoa is carefully tended, particularly when tacking.

Downwind Sails

Modern sailboats are a lot easier to maneuver thanks to the fore-and-aft rig. Unfortunately, when sailing downwind they catch less wind, and downwind sails are a great way of reducing this problem. They include the spinnaker and the gennaker.

A spinnaker will, without a doubt, increase your sailing enjoyment. But why are they often buried in the cabin of cruising boats? Well, the first few attempts to rig and set a spinnaker can be difficult without enough help and guidance. Provided a solid background, however, spinnakers are quite straightforward and easy to use and handle with teamwork and enough practice. More importantly, spinnakers can bring a light wind passage to life and can save your engine.

Spinnakers are purposely designed for sailing off the wind; they fill with wind and balloon out in front of your sailboat. Structured with a lightweight fabric such as nylon, the spinnaker is also known as a kite or chute, as they look like parachutes both in structure and appearance. 

A perfectly designed spinnaker should have taut leading edges when filled. This mitigates the risk of lifting and collapsing. A spinnaker should have a smooth curve when filled and devoid of depressions and bubbles that might be caused by the inconsistent stretching of the fabric. The idea here is that anything other than a smooth curve may reduce the lift and thereby reduce performance.

Types of Spinnakers

There are two main types of spinnakers: symmetric spinnakers and asymmetric spinnakers.

Asymmetric Spinnakers

Flown from a spinnaker pole or bowsprit fitted to the bow of the boat, asymmetric spinnakers resemble large jibs and have been around since the 19th century. The concept of asymmetric spinnaker revolves around attaching the tack of the spinnaker at the bow and pulling it around during a gybe.

Asymmetric spinnakers have two sheets just like a jib., These sheets are attached at the clew and never interact directly with the spinnaker pole. This is because the other corner of the spinnaker is fixed to the bowsprit. The asymmetric spinnaker works when you pull in one sheet while releasing the other. This makes it a lot easier to gybe but is less suited to sailing directly downwind. There is the loophole of having the asymmetric spinnaker gybed to the side opposite of the boom, so that the boat is sailing ‘wing-on-wing,’ though this is a more advanced maneuver, generally reserved for certain conditions and tactical racing situations.

On the contrary, the asymmetric spinnaker is perfect for fast planing dinghies. This is because such vessels have speeds that generate apparent wind forward. Because asymmetrics, by nature, prefer to sail shallower downwind angles, this apparent wind at high speeds makes the boat think that it is sailing higher than it really is, allowing you to drive a little lower off the breeze than normal. . In essence, the asymmetric spinnaker is vital if you're looking for easy handling.

Symmetric Spinnakers

Symmetric spinnakers are a classic sail type that has been used for centuries for controlling boats by lines known as a guy and a sheet. The guy, which is a windward line, is attached to the tack of the sail and stabilized by a spinnaker pole. The sheet, which is the leeward line, is attached to the clew of the spinnaker and is essential in controlling the shape of the spinnaker sail.

When set correctly, the leading edges of the symmetric spinnaker should be almost parallel to the wind. This is to ensure that the airflow over the leading edge remains attached. Generally, the spinnaker pole should be at the right angles to the apparent wind and requires a lot of care when packing.

The main disadvantage of this rig is the need to gybe the spinnaker pole whenever you gybe the boat. This is a complicated maneuver, and is one of the most common places for spinnakers to rip or get twisted. If, however, you can master this maneuver, you can sail at almost any angle downwind!

How to Use Spinnaker Effectively

If you decide to include the spinnakers to your sailboat, the sailmaker will want to know the type of boat you have, what kind of sailing you do, and where you sail. As such, the spinnaker that you end up with should be an excellent and all-round sail and should perform effectively off the breeze

The type of boat and where you'll be sailing will hugely influence the weight of your spinnaker cloth. In most cases, cruising spinnakers should be very light, so if you've decided to buy a spinnaker, make sure that it's designed per the type of your sailboat and where you will be sailing. Again, you can choose to go for something lighter and easier to set if you'll be sailing alone or with kids who are too young to help.

Setting up Spinnakers

One of the main reasons why sailors distrust spinnakers is because they don't know how to set them up. That being said, a perfectly working spinnaker starts with how you set it up and this revolves around how you carefully pack it and properly hook it up. You can do this by running the luff tapes and ensuring that the sails are not twisted when packed into the bag. If you are using large spinnakers, the best thing to do is make sure that they're set in stops to prevent the spinnakers from filling up with air before you even hoist them fully.

But even with that, you cannot fully set the spinnaker while sailing upwind. Make sure to bear away and have your pole ready to go as you turn downwind. You should then bear away to a reach before hoisting. Just don't hoist the spinnakers from the bow as this can move the weight of the crew and equipment forward.

Used when sailing downwind, a gennaker is asymmetric sail somewhere between a genoa and a spinnaker. It sets itself apart because it  gennaker is a free-flying asymmetric spinnaker but it is tacked to the bowsprit like the jib.

Let's put it into perspective. Even though the genoa is a great sail for racing and cruising, sailors realized that it was too small to be used in a race or for downwind sail and this is the main reason why the spinnaker was invented. While the spinnakers are large sails that can be used for downwind sail, they are quite difficult to handle especially if you're sailing shorthanded. As such, this is how a gennaker came to be: it gives you the best of both worlds.

Gennakers are stable and easy to fly and will add to your enjoyment and downwind performance.

The Shape of a Gennaker

As we've just noted, the gennaker is asymmetrical. It doesn't attach to the forestay like the genoa but has a permanent fitting from the mast to bow. It is rigged exactly like a spinnaker but its tack is fastened to the bowsprit. This is fundamentally an essential sail if you're looking for something to bridge the gap between a genoa and a spinnaker.

Setting a Gennaker

When cruising, the gennaker is set with the tack line from the bow, a halyard, and a sheet that's led to the aft quarter. Attach the tack to a furling unit and attach it to a fitting on the hull near the very front of the sailboat. You can then attach the halyard that will help in pulling it up to the top of the mast before attaching it to the clew. The halyard can then run back to the winches to make the controlling of the sail shape easier, just like when using the genoa sail.

In essence, a gennaker is a superb sail that will give you the maximum versatility of achieving the best of both a genoa and a spinnaker, especially when sailing downwind. This is particularly of great importance if you're cruising by autopilot or at night.

Light Air Sails

Even though downwind sails can be used as light air sails, not all light air sails can be used for downwind sailing. In other words, there's a level of difference between downwind sails and light air sails. Light air sails include code zero, windseeker, and drifter reacher.

A cross between an asymmetrical spinnaker and a genoa, a code zero is a highly modern sail type that's generally used when sailing close to the wind in light air. Although the initial idea of code zero was to make a larger genoa, it settled on a narrow and flat spinnaker while upholding the shape of a genoa.

Modern boats come with code zero sails that can be used as soon as the sailboat bears off close-hauled even a little bit. It has a nearly straight luff and is designed to be very flat for close reaching. This sail is designed to give your boat extra performance in light winds, especially in boats that do not have overlapping genoas. It also mitigates the problem of loss of power when you are reaching with a non-overlapping headsail. Really, it is closer to a light air jib that sacrifices a little angle for speed.

In many conditions, a code zero sail can go as high as a sailboat with just a jib. By hoisting a code zero, you'll initially have to foot off about 15 degrees to fill it and get the power that you require to heel and move the boat. The boat will not only speed up but will also allow you to put the bow up while also doing the same course as before you set the zero. In essence, code zero can be an efficient way of giving your boat about 30% more speed and this is exactly why it's a vital inventory item in racing sailboats.

When it comes to furling code zero, the best way to do it is through a top-down furling system as this will ensure that you never get a twist in the system.

Generally used when a full size and heavier sail doesn't stay stable or pressurized, a windseeker is a very light sail that's designed for drifting conditions. This is exactly why they're designed with a forgiving cloth to allow them to handle these challenging conditions.

The windseeker should be tacked at the headstay with two sheets on the clew. To help this sail fill in the doldrums, you can heel the boat to whatever the apparent leeward side is and let gravity help you maintain a good sail shape while reaching.The ideal angle of a windseeker should be about 60 degrees.

Though only used in very specific conditions, the windseeker is so good at this one job that it is worth the investment if you plan on a long cruise. Still, you can substitute most off the breeze sails for this in a pinch, with slightly less performance gain, likely with more sacrifices in angle to the breeze. 

Drifter Reacher

Many cruising sailors often get intimidated by the idea of setting and trimming a drifter if it's attached to the rig at only three corners or if it's free-flying. But whether or not a drifter is appropriate for your boat will hugely depend on your boat's rig, as well as other specific details such as your crew's ability to furl and unfurl the drifter and, of course, your intended cruising grounds.

But even with that, the drifter remains a time-honored sail that's handy and very versatile. Unlike other light air sails, the drifter perfectly carries on all points of sails as it allows the boat to sail close-hauled and to tack. It is also very easy to control when it's set and struck. In simpler terms, a drifter is principally a genoa that's built of lightweight fabric such as nylon. Regardless of the material, the drifter is a superb sail if you want to sail off a lee shore without using the genoa.

Generally stronger than other regular sails, stormsails are designed to handle winds of over 45 knots and are great when sailing in stormy conditions. They include a storm jib and a trysail.

If you sail long and far enough, chances are you have or will soon be caught in stormy conditions. Under such conditions, storm jibs can be your insurance and you'll be better off if you have a storm jib that has the following features:

• Robustly constructed using heavyweight sailcloth
• Sized suitably for the boat
• Highly visible even in grey and white seas

That's not all; you should never go out there without a storm jib as this, together with the trysail, is the only sails that will be capable of weathering some of nature's most testing situations.

Storm jibs typically have high clews to give you the flexibility of sheet location. You can raise the sail with a spare halyard until its lead position is closed-hauled in the right position. In essence, storm jib is your insurance policy when out there sailing: you should always have it but always hope that you never have to use it.

Also known as a spencer, a trysail is a small, bright orange, veritably bullet-proof, and triangular sail that's designed to save the boat's mainsail from winds over 45 knots and works in the same way as a storm jib. It is designed to enable you to make progress to windward even in strong and stormy winds.

Trysails generally use the same mast track as the mainsail but you have to introduce the slides into the gate from the head of the trysail.

There are two main types of rigs: the fore-and-aft rig and the square rigg.

Fore-and-aft Rig

This is a sailing rig that chiefly has the sails set along the lines of the keel and not perpendicular to it. It can be divided into three categories: Bermuda rig, Gaff rig, and Lateen rig.

Bermuda Rig - Also known as a Marconi rig, this is the typical configuration of most modern sailboats. It has been used since the 17th century and remains one of the most efficient types of rigs. The rig revolves around setting a triangular sail aft of the mast with the head raised to the top of the mast. The luff should run down the mast and be attached to the entire length.

Gaff Rig - This is the most popular fore-and-aft rig on vessels such as the schooner and barquentine. It revolves around having the sail four-cornered and controlled at its peak. In other words, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff.

Lateen Rig - This is a triangular fore-and-aft rig whereby a triangular sail is configured on a long yard that's mounted at a given angle of the mast while running in a fore-and-aft direction. Lateen rig is commonly used in the Indian Ocean and the Mediterranean.

Square Rigged

This is a rig whereby the mainsails are arranged in a horizontal spar so that they're square or vertical to the mast and the keel of the boat. The square rig is highly efficient when sailing downwind and was once very popular with ocean-going sailboats.

Unquestionably, sailing is always pleasurable. Imagine turning off the engine of your boat, hoisting the sails, and filling them with air! This is, without a doubt, a priceless moment that will make your boat keel and jump forward!

But being propelled by the noiseless motion of the wind and against the mighty currents and pounding waves of the seas require that you know various sail types and how to use them not just in propelling your boat but also in ensuring that you enjoy sailing and stay safe. Sails are a gorgeous way of getting forward. They remain the main fascination of sailboats and sea cruising. If anything, sails and boats are inseparable and are your true friends when out there on the water. As such, getting to know different types of sails and how to use them properly is of great importance.

All in all, let's wish you calm seas, fine winds, and a sturdy mast!

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Sail boat rigs: the pros and cons of each popular design

• Peter Poland
• July 24, 2023

Peter Poland looks at the history of popular rig designs and how the different types affect boat performance

Annie Hill’s FanShi can be easily reefed, a real benefit of the junk rig when sailing solo. Credit: Annie Hill Credit: Annie Hill

Having once asked yacht designer Andrew Wolstenholme if we could meet to discuss the evolution of modern sail boat rigs – and the continuing popularity of some older designs – we talked about boats in general and gaff rigs in particular, many of which he designs.

“The gaff still has much to recommend it. With stiffer, yet lighter carbon fibre spars , it can offer bigger benefits than it ever did in the past,” said Andrew.

His recent gaff-rigged designs like the new Cornish Crabber 24 MkV and smaller Kite 21 prove this point.

The 45ft barge yacht  Juno  was designed by Andrew Wolstenholme, built by Charlie Ward and launched in 2000. If you fancy a taste of history she can be chartered through  www.sailingbargejuno.com . Credit: Neil Foster

It’s generally accepted that the gaff evolved from the spritsail rig , which in turn evolved from earlier lugsail and – before then – square sail rigs .

The lugsail attaches to a spar that is hoisted at an angle. So part of the spar and sail protrude ahead of the mast, and this leading edge enables a boat to sail upwind.

The evolution of the lugsail started when someone discovered that by setting a square sail at an angle – with one end of the yard pointing down towards the deck – the sail could set closer to the wind.

Upwind advantage

Some say the Chinese junk rig is also descended from square sails as used on Chinese ships before the 12th century.

The junk rig , also known as the Chinese lugsail or sampan rig, evolved with full length battens extending the sail forward of the mast, providing a leading edge to help sail upwind.

The ever-inventive Blondie Hasler designed and built a modern version of the junk rig for his modified Nordic Folkboat, Jester .

He then entered the first single-handed transatlantic race in 1960, helping to initiate the OSTAR and boosting the appeal of long-distance solo sailing in general, and the junk rig in particular.

Blondie Hasler’s Jester helped cement the appeal of the modern junk rig. Credit: Ewen Southby-Tailyour

David Tyler, Annie Hill and Roger Taylor are three leading lights of the Hasler-inspired move to modern junk rigs, and have sailed many thousands of miles between them.

A Sadler 25 was the first of five junk rig boats that David Tyler owned. He and Annie Hill were also founder members of the ever-informative Junk Rig Association .

David told me he “could not contemplate sailing under anything else than a junk rig”, and has a long history of experimenting with and making variations of the junk rig.

David Thomas designed a ply/epoxy 35ft shoal draught junk rig ocean cruiser for David Tyler.

Tystie  with an earlier single mast sail plan. She later converted to a ketch  rig . Credit: Darren Bos

Hedley Bewes built Tystie beside the Hamble to a completed and painted woodwork stage; then Tyler fitted her out with junk rig, engine , electrics , and deck hardware in just three months.

She was launched in August 2000 and ended up in New Zealand, where she was sold – 16 years later – having sailed 85,000 miles.

“I could not possibly have done this under any other rig,” said David.

He then designed a modern cambered junk rig for his Hunter Duette 23, admitting that this “still does not compete with a big genoa to windward but is superior in all other ways – especially if you define efficiency as ‘miles sailed per unit of input of crew effort’. She had a junk rig of my own design first, then a junk rig-based wingsail.”

David concluded that a modern cambered junk rig “can encompass many features: including various sailmaking ways of building 3D camber into each panel with straight battens; or a flat sail with hinged battens; or a flat fanned sail with twist (a fiendishly cunning method found in Hong Kong junks). My favourite sail has slightly cambered panels with hinged battens. This is easier to set without diagonal creases than deeply cambered panels; and has a smoother curved foil shape than a flat sail with hinges.”

Sail boat rigs proven offshore

Annie Hill is another junk rig enthusiast who has sailed many thousands of miles and written books about her voyages.

She’s now based in New Zealand, having built the David Tyler-designed FanShi “from scratch with a small amount of amateur assistance from friends.”

“The best aspect of a junk rig for single-handed sailing is the speed and ease with which you can reef ,” explained Annie. “The sail tacks automatically which helps in close quarters sailing, as does having exactly the right amount of sail for the situation. I find another great advantage is that when I’m sailing off the anchor or a mooring , I can raise three or four panels, so the boat doesn’t go charging off as I walk back to the cockpit. I can then raise the rest of the sail while leaving the anchorage. And of course, I only raise just what I need.”

Annie Hill christens her self-built FanShi on launch day in New Zealand. Credit: Annie Hill

Annie Hill mentions several junk rig benefits: “The junk rig is much easier to handle downwind. It’s reluctant to gybe until you are sailing well by the lee. The sail is fully squared out so that it is working efficiently. And it’s easy to change from running to reaching to beating, without having to handle guys, poles or vangs.

“In short, the junk rig is much easier to sail. The junk sail is intrinsically self-tacking, which makes beating to windward, especially in close quarters, infinitely less work. Ease of reefing – and making sail again – also means you always sail under the correct amount of canvas. This makes for faster passages and ensures the boat is properly underway in the aftermath of a gale.”

And the disadvantages? Most agree that the junk rig is less efficient when s ailing to windward in light airs .

Easy handling

Roger Taylor came upon the junk rig when buying his first Mingming ; one of around 25 factory-built junk rig Corribees.

“The conversion work was to make her more suitable for serious offshore work – unsinkable, watertight bulkheads, reduced cockpit, proper watertight hatch and so on. I bought her specifically to sail in the first Jester Challenge , and so nothing was more appropriate than a junk rig! I had, in any case, been fascinated by Jester herself for many decades.”

Mingming II came next – a standard triple keel Achilles 24 – so Roger replaced her Bermuda rig with a new junk rig.

Roger Taylor has covered many solo miles in his modified Achilles 24, Mingming II and says the junk sail is easy to repair at sea. Credit: Bertie Milne

“The main differences to the Hasler sail on Mingming were higher aspect ratio for speed in the light airs you get in the high Arctic latitudes in summer – so seven panels instead of six. And cambered panels instead of flat-cut, for better windward performance.

“The lower four panels were built separately as I didn’t have enough room in my London flat to sew the sail in one piece. It’s attached to the carbon-fibre battens with a hinge system. I named the sail the HHT – Hybrid Hinged Turbo! The unstayed mast was a cut down municipal lamp post, 8in diameter at the base, tapering to about 3in at the masthead; solid as a rock in all weathers.”

Roger added “I can reef instantaneously from the hatch and do all other sail handling from the safety and shelter of the main hatch. So I am never exposed on deck and am therefore warmer, drier, less stressed, and therefore more likely to make better decisions.”

As well as ease of handling, Roger says it is “a wonderfully relaxed and supple rig, with none of the extreme tensions of its Bermuda cousin.”

“The sensation at sea is quite different; you feel more in harmony with the elements, rather than their adversary. Few junk rig sailors I know would ever revert once they have experienced this. The rig is easy to repair at sea. If a sail panel tears you can take it out of service by lashing two battens together. If a batten breaks you can lash it to its neighbour (I did almost a whole voyage to Iceland and back like this, after breaking a batten in a Force 9 off the Dogger Bank) or fix it with a splint. With a fully battened rig, the sail is evenly supported at all points.”

A classic sail boat rig

Moving on to modern luggers , there are some recent interpretations of this classic rig.

British designer Nigel Irens is famous for his multihulls but also has an eye for the unusual, and in 1994 he came up with a couple of beautiful luggers.

His first was the Roxane , a 29ft yawl-rigged lugger loosely inspired by an old Shetland Island fishing boat.

Fitted with a carbon fibre main mast and yard, she has plenty of modern technology on board.

As an active racing class boat that doubles up as a tender and potterer, the 11ft 4in lug sail scow has many fans. Credit: Will Perritt/Alamy

He followed this with the smaller 22ft Romilly , another yawl-rigged lugger for trailer sailing . Both models were later produced by CoCoBe in Holland.

The songwriter and broadcaster Sir Richard Stilgoe was “immediately beguiled” by the Roxane after sailing her in 1995, and has his own called Ruby II .

“The lightness of the carbon spars undoubtedly makes a difference to stability. The rig works and sails really nicely. But I admit that I and another owner are working with Nigel to investigate a conversion to two Bermuda masts – still unstayed – with fathead sails. I don’t expect to go faster, but I do hope to be able to raise and lower the sails more quickly and easily,” said Sir Richard.

If you fancy trying a very small lugsail boat, the famous 11ft 4in scow has much to offer.

It’s widely sailed in the UK and the best-known example is the Lymington Scow. Fleets can be found along the South Coast.

Originally built in clinker, scows are now moulded in GRP.

Rooted in the past

The spritsail is another rig evolution. It appeared on small Greek craft in the Aegean Sea many centuries ago. The Romans followed suit with spritsail-rigged merchant ships.

The rig became increasingly sophisticated until the luff of the sail sat behind the mast, while the sprit went from the base of the mast to the peak of the sail.

The luff became long and straight and the boat could sail closer to the wind, especially with leeboards to reduce sideways drift and a foresail to increase sail area: both said to be Dutch innovations.

The most famous spritsail rigged workhorses were the large, flat-bottomed leeboard Thames barges, which could lower their masts to ‘shoot’ bridges before unloading their cargo.

The Optimist was designed as low cost started boats to children. Credit: Getty

There aren’t many new spritsail-rigged craft around these days, apart from thousands of Optimist dinghies sailed by children as starter-boats.

The Optimist was designed in 1947 by American Clark Mills to offer low-cost sailing for young people.

He drew a simple pram that could be built from three sheets of plywood, then the design was slightly modified and introduced in Europe by Axel Damsgaard.

There are now more than 160,000 Optimists sailed in around 120 countries.

At the 2020 Olympics, at least 75% of medallist skippers were former Optimist champions: the spritsail remains a cornerstone of sailing.

Working boat designs

The gaff rig – extensively used on workboats of all sorts – was a logical progression.

The sprit was replaced by a gaff that slid up the mast so two sides of the mainsail were attached to solid spars.

The later addition of a boom improved performance, but made lowering and raising the rig trickier when shooting bridges.

Some builders solved this problem by attaching the boom gooseneck to the top of a tall tabernacle in which the mast hinged, so the lowered mast, gaff and sail could still stack on top of the boom.

Continues below…

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The gaff rig improved the versatility of workboats; the ability to sail to windward diluted sailors’ dread of a lee shore.

The gaff rig held sway on small to medium sized working craft and on growing numbers of leisure yachts until the Bermuda rig arrived.

Originally developed in Bermuda for smaller vessels then adapted to the larger ocean-going Bermuda sloop, this rig features a triangular mainsail hoisted to the top of the mast. Marconi’s invention of wire rigging to hold up tall radio masts soon spread to sailboats.

Performance-oriented designers borrowed Marconi’s idea and hoisted large three-sided mainsails on tall and well-supported masts.

As a result, the mainsail had a long, straight leading edge which optimised windward performance.

Crafted for speed

Predictably, yacht racing encouraged the proliferation of these ‘Marconi’ Bermuda rigs.

Metre boat and ocean racer designers were quick to forsake gaffs and go for large mainsails and smallish headsails set on tall masts.

When the Royal Ocean Racing Club (RORC)’s rules started influencing the post-war racing scene, masthead Bermuda rigs with smaller mainsails and larger overlapping genoas received favourable racing handicaps and therefore became the norm; masthead rigs with 150% overlapping genoas dominated the scene.

Fortuitously, self-tailing winches were invented (1974 patent) and fitted on race boats. And GRP production family cruisers followed suit.

The Westerly Centaur with a masthead rig and overlapping genoa

From top-selling Beneteaus like the First 30 (1977) to cruising twin keelers like the Westerly Centaur (1969), masthead rigs and overlapping genoas became the norm.

At the same time, the shorter mast, smaller main and standard working jib saved the builder money – and a large genoa went onto the ‘extras’ list!

The Hunter 19 was an example of how the RORC rule encouraged small mains and big genoas.

The National Squib keelboat’s identical hull and keel sports a well-balanced fractional rig with a small jib and a big mainsail.

But when the Squib grew a cabin and coachroof to become a handicap race boat, the rig height and mainsail shrunk while the headsail became a 150% genoa.

And early Hunter 19s won handicap races galore.

Meanwhile, classic 1960s and 70s cruiser-racers such as the Nicholson 32 , Contessa 26 and 32, Twister, Stella, Beneteaus and Jeanneaus et al clung to masthead rigs with small mainsails, working jibs and large genoas; the latter still lurking on the extras list.

The same applied to most of the British bilge- and twin-keel family cruisers .

Fractional sail boat rigs

Impressed by David Thomas’s quarter ton design, Quarto , Hunter was one of the first British builders to beat a path back to fractional rigged cruiser-racers .

Unlike most other quarter tonners at that time, Quarto featured a fractional rig.

In 1975, Hunter asked Thomas to design a GRP cruiser-racer with a similar rig. This became the Sonata, and Hunter never again built a masthead-rigged yacht.

At around the same time, the new International Offshore Rule (IOR) handicap rule – followed later by the Channel Handicap System (CHS) and International Rating Certificate (IRC) rules – treated fractional sail boat rigs more fairly.

Hunter twin keelers, like the Hunter Channel 31, have fractional rigs. Photo: Sven Petersen/Hunter Association

Hunter’s twin keel cruisers also had easily handled fractional rigs, later including self-tacking jibs as standard.

As most sailors moved over to Bermuda rigs, working boats such as fishing smacks and pilot cutters stuck to their four-sided mainsails held aloft on gaffs.

As did several leisure yachts. Why? What are the advantages of these ‘four sided’ mainsails?

While gaff-rig aficionados concede that it’s less close-winded than a Bermuda rig, they reckon it scores off the wind.

Although a gaffer’s mast is shorter, ample sail can be set because the gaff puts more area at the top of a mainsail than you get beneath the diminutive headboard on a Bermuda rig mainsail.

On a reach or a run, gaff rigs provide power aplenty.

Design expert CA Marchaj also said a low aspect ratio mainsail is more efficient than a high aspect ratio equivalent when sailing off the wind.; if you want to pile on more horsepower in light airs, the space above the gaff can also be filled with a topsail.

Ideal for novices

In the 21st century, modern gaffers are still popular, and thousands of novices enjoy sailing in a ubiquitous and simple little gaffer: the Mirror dinghy .

The Mirror’s gunter-rigged gaff slides up parallel to its short mast and offers many benefits.

Sail boat rigs: The Mirror Dinghy originally had a gunter-rigged gaff rig; later the Mirror Class introduced a Bermuda rig option. Credit: Getty

The mast and gaff are much shorter than a one-piece Bermuda rig mast, so are easy to handle and transport when the boat is trailed.

Yet windward performance is good, thanks to the straight luff that continues from the tack of the mainsail to its head on the ‘gunter’ gaff.

The Mirror Class later introduced a Bermuda rig option.

Modern gaffers

Designer Andrew Wolstenholme attributes much of the credit for the popularity of the gaff rig in cruising yachts to Cornish Crabbers.

These boats have sold in large numbers since Roger Dongray designed the original Cornish Crabber.

Her smaller sister, the 19ft Cornish Shrimper, sports a nicely balanced gaff rig with a sizable roller genoa tacked to a bowsprit.

Over 1,000 have been sold and she’s still in production. Wolstenholme has recently designed a new Cornish Crabber 24 MkV with a lightweight carbon mast which also simplifies trailer-sailing.

Sail boat rigs: The gaff-rigged Cornish Crabber 24, with a lightweight carbon mast. Credit: David Harding

Wolstenholme’s Kite 21 is another modern gaffer to take advantage of new materials.

“My aim is to keep her light and simple… the sail plan is generous and set on lightweight carbon spars. I want her to sail well in light and moderate winds – not just in a blow. I want to tow her behind a normal 1.8 litre saloon – not some gas guzzling 4×4.”

The Old Gaffers Association aims to encourage interest in the traditional gaff rig, but also welcomes the development of the rig.

One of these exotic ‘new’ gaffers is the Simon Rogers-designed Alice III. Chris Spencer-Chapman, whose company McKillop Classic Sails was involved in the rig and sail plan, says the “combination of the light carbon spars and hydraulic lifting deep fin and bulb keel allows an enormous sail area which would not be possible with a conventional hull and spars. She is exciting in light conditions but the windage can be an issue to windward in heavy conditions. “Off the wind she is always very fast… for easy cruising, the Bermuda rig will win, but there will always be the aficionado who likes the features of traditional rigs. Unless you are a real purist, why not take advantage of modern materials?”

Sail boat rigs: The Kite 21 is a modern gaffer designed to sail well in light and moderate winds. Credit: Peter Chesworth

Stephen Akester, who co-owns Alice III , told me she “is light displacement at 7.5 tonnes. In light airs and no sea she outperforms Bermuda rigs but to windward in a blow she loses out due to windage and not being as close winded. [She has] much less weight aloft and a very different motion to a classic gaff-rigged heavy displacement vessel. We opted for a gaff rig for the fun of it. Further refinements using modern materials mean we can set the rig up for single-handed sailing with headsails and topsail on rollers and boom bags to catch main and mizzen.”

The Nigel Irens-designed 63ft Maggie B was another dramatic ‘modern gaffer’.

Builder Covey Island Boatworks called her a ‘fusion’ yacht because she fused modern materials with traditional ideas.

Her schooner rig featured short, high peaked carbon gaffs on Irens’s slippery and almost plumb stemmed shoal draught hull design.

The carbon spars are held up by Vectran fibre shrouds tensioned by special deadeyes.

Reducing weight

Vectran costs more than wire, but the weight reduction is huge – as is the cost saving on fabrications to attach wires to the mast and on rigging screws to tension them.

The weight saving aloft meant that 600kg worth of ballast was saved down below, improving performance and righting moments.

Maggie B was succeeded by Farfarer – another Irens masterpiece featuring an unstayed rig with ‘fathead’ mainsails, with a stiff top batten doing the job of a mini gaff.

Matt Newlands of Swallow Boats also brought gaffs into the modern age; then went further.

“The gunter rig was what we offered, and still do, to customers who prefer having shorter spars making trailer-sailing easier for two reasons – less length to trail and easier to raise the mast. But in my opinion, it has been made almost obsolete by two developments. One is carbon fibre masts, and the other is fathead mainsails.

The mast on the BayRaider 20 is only 1m longer than the boat; the ‘fathead’ mainsail improves the lift and drag ratio and maintains sail area. Credit: David Harding

“Carbon masts on trailer-sailer sized boats are so light that it’s easy to raise a full-length mast if the base is hinged. The mast length problem is cured by using a ‘fathead’ mainsail, reducing mast length (on our boats by as much as 1m) while maintaining the same sail area and improving lift/drag ratio.

“On our popular BayRaider 20 this results in a mast that is only 1m longer than the boat. This new rig has many advantages over the gunter, chief among them being ease of reefing. I love quirky rigs, but it’s hard to beat the Bermuda mainsail setup especially with a fathead main on a carbon mast.”

All of which brings us to the Bermuda rigs on today’s production cruisers.

Many have moved on from the old RORC-inspired masthead sail plan. I asked rigging expert Nigel Theadon whether he preferred masthead or fractional sail boat rigs.

“Modern swept-back spreaders provide a ‘safer’ rig without the need for babystay or forward lowers to stabilise the mast’s middle sections… forestays are now higher up the mast than in years gone by, so the modern fractional rig is closer to a masthead than it once was,” he says.

“Fractional rigs are more attractive to look at and do not need expensive and powerful backstay adjusters. When buying a new boat, consider what you want from the rig. When buying a used boat, get a rigger to carry out a mast inspection: because hull surveyors rarely look above eye height.”

Whether you opt for a gaff- or Bermuda-rigged boat, this is sound advice.

Nigel was class champion of the X332; its well-balanced ultra-modern fractional rig works as well for a small cruising crew as it does for keen racers.

But don’t let this put you off a modern gaffer if you enjoy its quirks and character.

Our coastline would be a boring place if we all sailed the same sorts of boats.

Pros and cons of popular sail boat rig designs

Chinese junk rig.

Sail boat rigs: Chinese junk rig. Credit: Darren Bos

Pros: Easy to raise and reef. Easy to tack, gybe and sail single-handed. Easy to control in strong winds.

Cons: Not as close-winded as other rigs. Can be expensive and complicated to build/fit.

Sail boat rigs: Gaff rig. Credit: Neil Foster

Pros: Shorter spars make trailing easier. Modern carbon spars are light and easier to raise/lower. Efficient on a reach or run. Easy on the eye.

Cons: Not as close-winded as modern Bermuda rigs.

Masthead Bermuda rig

Sail boat rigs: Masthead Bermuda rig. Credit: Graham Snook

Pros: Close-winded. Large genoas can be reefed with modern roller furling gear. Modern self-tailing winches make short-tacking easier. Small mainsails easier to control.

Cons: Large genoas can be hard work for cruising.

Fractional Bermuda rig

Sail boat rigs: Fractional Bermuda rig. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Very close-winded with tight sheeting angles. Smaller jib is easier to tack, set and trim when shorthanded A large mainsail adds extra off-wind power

Cons: Swept spreaders can chafe mainsails when dead-running.

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marconi rig

Quick reference.

Sometimes confused with the Bermudan rig, particularly in the USA where for a long time it was a synonymous term. It was introduced by the yacht designer Charles E. Nicholson onto the 15-metre (49.5-ft) Istria in 1912. He did away with the traditional gaff rig where the topmast is fitted on to a fid on the lower mast. Instead, he socketed a hollow topmast into the mainmast, so that it looked like a single spar. This meant that the luff of the triangular-shaped jackyard topsail could be set on a track on the socketed topmast, which enabled it to be raised and lowered much more quickly during a race, a handy advantage. It also meant the topsail yard could be discarded, which saved weight aloft, another advantage when racing. However, this type of mast had to have a complicated series of stays to keep it upright as it was very much taller than that used in the gaff rig. The system of staying made it look like the new Marconi radio masts for transmitting Morse code, hence its nickname.

The use of the Bermudan rig in the smaller racing classes had been encouraged by the introduction of the International Metre Class in 1907, but the technical difficulties of staying the mast, and the conservatism of the owners, prevented its introduction into the larger classes. However, once the staying of the marconi mast had been mastered it was a logical step to introduce the Bermudan rig into the Big Class which raced between the wars.

The marconi rig caused quite a stir when it was introduced, and when one old tar was asked during a regatta what he thought of it, he replied: ‘If I was at the top o’ one o' them, I should reckon I was a long way from home.'

From:   marconi rig   in  The Oxford Companion to Ships and the Sea »

Subjects: History

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Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

What are the different types of sail rig? The sail rig is determined by the number of masts and the layout and shape of sails. Most modern ships are fore-and-aft rigged, while old ships are square-rigged. Rigs with one mast are sloops and cutters. Ketches, yawls, brigs, and schooners have two masts. Barques have three masts. Rigs can contain up to seven masts.

'Yeah, that's a gaff brig, and that a Bermuda cutter' - If you don't know what this means (neither did I) and want to know what to call a two-masted ship with a square-rigged mainsail, this article is definitely for you.

On this page:

More info on sail rig types, mast configurations and rig types, rigs with one mast, rigs with two masts, rigs with three masts, related questions.

This article is part 2 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 1 is all about the different types of sails. If you want to know everything there is to know about sails once and for all, I really recommend you read it. It gives a good overview of sail types and is easy to understand.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

First of all, what is a sail rig? A sail rig is the way in which the sails are attached to the mast(s). In other words, it's the setup or configuration of the sailboat. The rig consists of the sail and mast hardware. The sail rig and sail type are both part of the sail plan. We usually use the sail rig type to refer to the type of boat.

Let's start by taking a look at the most commonly used modern sail rigs. Don't worry if you don't exactly understand what's going on. At the end of this article, you'll understand everything about rig types.

The sail rig and sail plan are often used interchangeably. When we talk of the sail rig we usually mean the sail plan . Although they are not quite the same. A sail plan is the set of drawings by the naval architect that shows the different combinations of sails and how they are set up for different weather conditions. For example a light air sail plan, storm sail plan, and the working sail plan (which is used most of the time).

So let's take a look at the three things that make up the sail plan.

The 3 things that make up the sail plan

I want to do a quick recap of my previous article. A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

I'll explore the most common rig types in detail later in this post. I've also added pictures to learn to recognize them more easily. ( Click here to skip to the section with pictures ).

How to recognize the sail plan?

So how do you know what kind of boat you're dealing with? If you want to determine what the rig type of a boat is, you need to look at these three things:

• Check the number of masts, and how they are set up.
• You look at the type of sails used (the shape of the sails, how many there are, and what functionality they have).
• And you have to determine the rig type, which means the way the sails are set up.

Below I'll explain each of these factors in more detail.

The most common rig types on sailboats

To give you an idea of the most-used sail rigs, I'll quickly summarize some sail plans below and mention the three things that make up their sail plan.

• Bermuda sloop - one mast, one mainsail, one headsail, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff cutter - one mast, one mainsail, two staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff schooner - two-masted (foremast), two mainsails, staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff ketch - two-masted (mizzen), two mainsails, staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Full-rigged ship or tall ship - three or more masts, mainsail on each mast, staysails, square-rigged

The first word is the shape and rigging of the mainsail. So this is the way the sail is attached to the mast. I'll go into this later on. The second word refers to the mast setup and amount of sails used.

Most sailboats are Bermuda sloops. Gaff-rigged sails are mostly found on older, classic boats. Square-rigged sails are generally not used anymore.

But first I want to discuss the three factors that make up the sail plan in more detail.

Ways to rig sails

There are basically two ways to rig sails:

• From side to side, called Square-rigged sails - the classic pirate sails
• From front to back, called Fore-and-aft rigged sails - the modern sail rig

Almost all boats are fore-and-aft rigged nowadays.

Square sails are good for running downwind, but they're pretty useless when you're on an upwind tack. These sails were used on Viking longships, for example. Their boats were quicker downwind than the boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails, but they didn't handle as well.

The Arabs first used fore-and-aft rigged sails, making them quicker in difficult wind conditions.

Quick recap from part 1: the reason most boats are fore-and-aft rigged today is the increased maneuverability of this configuration. A square-rigged ship is only good for downwind runs, but a fore-and-aft rigged ship can sail close to the wind, using the lift to move forward.

The way the sails are attached to the mast determines the shape of the sail. The square-rigged sails are always attached the same way to the mast. The fore-and-aft rig, however, has a lot of variations.

The three main sail rigs are:

• Bermuda rig - most used - has a three-sided (triangular) mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided (triangular) mainsail on a long yard

The Bermuda is the most used, the gaff is a bit old-fashioned, and the lateen rig is outdated (about a thousand years). Lateen rigs were used by the Moors. The Bermuda rig is actually based on the Lateen rig (the Dutch got inspired by the Moors).

Other rig types that are not very common anymore are:

• Junk rig - has horizontal battens to control the sail
• Settee rig - Lateen with the front corner cut off
• Crabclaw rig

Mast configuration

Okay, we know the shape of the mainsail. Now it's time to take a look at the mast configuration. The first thing is the number of masts:

• one-masted boats
• two-masted boats
• three-masted boats
• four masts or up
• full or ship-rigged boats - also called 'ships' or 'tall ships'

I've briefly mentioned the one and two mast configurations in part 1 of this article. In this part, I'll also go over the three-masted configurations, and the tall ships as well.

A boat with one mast has a straightforward configuration because there's just one mast. You can choose to carry more sails or less, but that's about it.

A boat with two masts or more gets interesting. When you add a mast, it means you have to decide where to put the extra mast: in front, or in back of the mainmast. You can also choose whether or not the extra mast will carry an extra mainsail. The placement and size of the extra mast are important in determining what kind of boat we're dealing with. So you start by locating the largest mast, which is always the mainmast.

From front to back: the first mast is called the foremast. The middle mast is called the mainmast. And the rear mast is called the mizzenmast.

What is the mizzenmast? The mizzenmast is the aft-most (rear) mast on a sailboat with three or more masts or the mast behind the mainmast on a boat with two masts. The mizzenmast carries the mizzen sail. On a two-masted boat, the mizzenmast is always (slightly) smaller than the mainmast. What is the purpose of the mizzen sail? The mizzen sail provides more sail area and flexibility in sail plan. It can be used as a big wind rudder, helping the sailor to have more control over the stern of the ship. It pushes the stern away from the wind and forces the bow in the opposite way. This may help to bring the bow into the wind when at anchor.

I always look at the number of masts first, because this is the easiest to spot. So to make this stuff more easy to understand, I've divided up the rig types based on the number of masts below.

Why would you want more masts and sail anyways?

Good question. The biggest advantage of two masts compared to one (let's say a ketch compared to a sloop), is that it allows you to use multiple smaller sails to get the same sail area. It also allows for shorter masts.

This means you reduce the stress on the rigging and the masts, which makes the ketch rig safer and less prone to wear and tear. It also doesn't capsize as quickly. So there are a couple of real advantages of a ketch rig over a sloop rig.

In the case of one mast, we look at the number of sails it carries.

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

Most single-masted boats are sloops, which means one mast with two sails (mainsail + headsail). The extra sail increases maneuverability. The mainsail gives you control over the stern, while the headsail gives you control over the bow.

Sailor tip: you steer a boat using its sails, not using its rudder.

The one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

The cat is the simplest sail plan and has one mast with one sail. It's easy to handle alone, so it's very popular as a fishing boat. Most (very) small sailboats are catboats, like the Sunfish, and many Laser varieties. But it has a limited sail area and doesn't give you the control and options you have with more sails.

The most common sail plan is the sloop. It has one mast and two sails: the main and headsail. Most sloops have a Bermuda mainsail. It's one of the best racing rigs because it's able to sail very close to the wind (also called 'weatherly'). It's one of the fastest rig types for upwind sailing.

It's a simple sail plan that allows for high performance, and you can sail it short-handed. That's why most sailboats you see today are (Bermuda) sloops.

This rig is also called the Marconi rig, and it was developed by a Dutch Bermudian (or a Bermudian Dutchman) - someone from Holland who lived on Bermuda.

A cutter has three or more sails. Usually, the sail plan looks a lot like the sloop, but it has three headsails instead of one. Naval cutters can carry up to 6 sails.

Cutters have larger sail area, so they are better in light air. The partition of the sail area into more smaller sails give you more control in heavier winds as well. Cutters are considered better for bluewater sailing than sloops (although sloops will do fine also). But the additional sails just give you a bit more to play with.

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the mainmast. If the extra mast is behind (aft of) the mainmast, it's called a mizzenmast . If it's in front of the mainmast, it's called a foremast .

If you look at a boat with two masts and it has a foremast, it's most likely either a schooner or a brig. It's easy to recognize a foremast: the foremast is smaller than the aft mast.

If the aft mast is smaller than the front mast, it is a sail plan with a mizzenmast. That means the extra mast has been placed at the back of the boat. In this case, the front mast isn't the foremast, but the mainmast. Boats with two masts that have a mizzenmast are most likely a yawl or ketch.

The two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (a cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast is much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without a mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Bilander - two masts (foremast). Has a lateen-rigged mainsail and square-rigged sails on the foremast and topsails.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. The main mast carries small lateen-rigged sail.

The yawl has two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged and a mizzenmast. The mizzenmast is much shorter than the mainmast, and it doesn't carry a mainsail. The mizzenmast is located aft of the rudder and is mainly used to increase helm balance.

A ketch has two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged. The extra mast is a mizzenmast. It's nearly as tall as the mainmast and carries a mainsail. Usually, the mainsails of the ketch are gaff-rigged, but there are Bermuda-rigged ketches too. The mizzenmast is located in front of the rudder instead of aft, as on the yawl.

The function of the ketch's mizzen sail is different from that of the yawl. It's actually used to drive the boat forward, and the mizzen sail, together with the headsail, are sufficient to sail the ketch. The mizzen sail on a yawl can't really drive the boat forward.

Schooners have two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged. The extra mast is a foremast which is generally smaller than the mainmast, but it does carry a mainsail. Schooners are also built with a lot more masts, up to seven (not anymore). The schooner's mainsails are generally gaff-rigged.

The schooner is easy to sail but not very fast. It handles easier than a sloop, except for upwind, and it's only because of better technology that sloops are now more popular than the schooner.

The brig has two masts. The foremast is always square-rigged. The mainmast can be square-rigged or is partially square-rigged. Some brigs carry a lateen mainsail on the mainmast, with square-rigged topsails.

Some variations on the brig are:

Brigantine - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Mainmast carries no square-rigged mainsail.

Hermaphrodite brig - also called half brig or schooner brig. Has two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Mainmast carries a gaff rig mainsail and topsail, making it half schooner.

Three-masted boats are mostly barques or schooners. Sometimes sail plans with two masts are used with more masts.

The three-masted rigs are:

• Barque - three masts, fore, and mainmast are square-rigged, the mizzenmast is usually gaff-rigged. All masts carry mainsail.
• Barquentine - three masts, foremast is square-rigged, the main and mizzenmast are fore-and-aft rigged. Also called the schooner barque.
• Polacca - three masts, foremast is square-rigged, the main and mizzenmast are lateen-rigged.
• Xebec - three masts, all masts are lateen-rigged.

A barque has three or four masts. The fore and mainmast are square-rigged, and the mizzen fore-and-aft, usually gaff-rigged. Carries a mainsail on each mast, but the mainsail shape differs per mast (square or gaff). Barques were built with up to five masts. Four-masted barques were quite common.

Barques were a good alternative to full-rigged ships because they require a lot fewer sailors. But they were also slower. Very popular rig for ocean crossings, so a great rig for merchants who travel long distances and don't want 30 - 50 sailors to run their ship.

Barquentine

The barquentine usually has three masts. The foremast is square-rigged and the main and mizzenmast fore-and-aft. The rear masts are usually gaff-rigged.

Faster than a barque or a schooner, but the performance is worse than both.

The polacca or polacre rig has three masts with a square-rigged foremast. The main and mizzenmast are lateen-rigged. Beautiful boat to see. Polacca literally means 'Polish' (it's Italian). It was a popular rig type in the Mediterranean in the 17th century. It looks like the xebec, which has three lateen-rigged masts.

Fun fact: polaccas were used by a Dutch sailor-turned-Turkish-pirate (called Murat Reis).

The xebec is a Mediterranean trading ship with three masts. All masts are lateen-rigged. I couldn't find any surviving xebecs, only models and paintings. So I guess this rig is outdated a long time.

A boat with three or more masts that all carry square-rigged sails is called a ship, a tall ship, or a full-rigged ship. So it's at this point that we start calling boats 'ships'. It has nothing to do with size but with the type of rigging.

More sails mean less stress on all of them. These ships use a lot of sails to distribute the forces, which reduces the stress on the rigging and the masts. Square sails mean double the sail area in comparison to triangular sails.

They are quite fast for their size, and they could outrun most sloops and schooners (schooners were relatively a lot heavier). The reason is that tall ships could be a lot longer than sloops, giving them a lot of extra hull speed. Sloops couldn't be as large because there weren't strong enough materials available. Try making a single triangular sail with a sail area of over 500 sq. ft. from linen.

So a lot of smaller sails made sense. You could have a large ship with a good maximum hull speed, without your sails ripping apart with every gust of wind.

But you need A LOT of sailors to sail a tall ship: about 30 sailors in total to ie. reef down sails and operate the ship. That's really a lot.

Tall ships are used nowadays for racing, with the popular tall ship races traveling the world. Every four years I go and check them out when they are at Harlingen (which is very close to where I live).

Check out the amazing ships in this video of the tall ship races last year near my hometown. (The event was organized by friends of mine).

What is the difference between a schooner and a sloop? A schooner has two masts, whereas the sloop only has one. The schooner carries more sails, with a mainsail on both masts. Also, sloops are usually Bermuda-rigged, whereas schooners are usually gaff-rigged. Most schooners also carry one or two additional headsails, in contrast to the single jib of the sloop.

What do you call a two-masted sailboat? A two-masted sailboat is most likely a yawl, ketch, schooner, or brig. To determine which one it is you have to locate the mainmast (the tallest). At the rear: schooner or brig. In front: yawl or ketch. Brigs have a square-rigged foremast, schooners don't. Ketches carry a mainsail on the rear mast; yawls don't.

What is a sloop rig? A sloop rig is a sailboat with one mast and two sails: a mainsail and headsail. It's a simple sail plan that handles well and offers good upwind performance. The sloop rig can be sailed shorthanded and is able to sail very close to the wind, making it very popular. Most recreational sailboats use a sloop rig.

What is the difference between a ketch and a yawl? The most important difference between a ketch and a yawl are the position and height of the mizzenmast. The mizzenmast on a yawl is located aft of the rudder, is shorter than the mainmast and doesn't carry a mainsail. On a ketch, it's nearly as long as the mainmast and carries a mainsail.

There are a wonderful lots of DIY changeability shows on the cable airwaves these days.

Rick the rigger

There are SO many errors on this site it really should be taken down.

First major mistake is to say you are no longer afraid of the sea.

One that truly gets up my nose is the term ‘fully’ rigged ship. It’s a FULL rigged ship!! Your mast names are the wrong way round and just because there may be 3 it doesn’t automatically mean the one in the middle is the main.

I could go on and totally destroy your over inflated but fragile ego but I won’t. All I will say is go learn a lot more before posting.

Shawn Buckles

Thanks for your feedback. If you like to point out anything more specific, please let me know and I will update the articles. I’ve changed fully-rigged to full-rigged ship - which is a typo on my part. I try to be as concise as I can, but, obviously, we all make mistakes every now and then. The great thing about the internet is that we can learn from each other and update our knowledge together.

If you want to write yourself and share your knowledge, please consider applying as a writer for my blog by clicking on the top banner.

Thanks, Shawn

Well, I feel that I’ve learned a bit from this. The information is clear and well laid out. Is it accurate? I can’t see anything at odds with the little I knew before, except that I understood a xebec has a square rigged centre mainmast, such as the Pelican ( https://www.adventureundersail.com/ )

Hi, Shawn, You forgot (failed) to mention another type of rig? The oldest type of rig known and still functions today JUNK RIG!

Why are so many of the comments here negative. I think it is wonderful to share knowledge and learn together. I knew a little about the subject (I’m an Aubrey-Maturin fan!) but still found this clarified some things for me. I can’t comment therefore on the accuracy of the article, but it seems clear to me that the spirit of the author is positive. We owe you some more bonhomme I suggest Shawn.

As they say in the Navy: “BZ” - for a good article.

Been reading S.M. Stirling and wanted to understand the ship types he references. Thank you, very helpful.

This site is an awesome starting point for anyone who would like to get an overview of the subject. I am gratefull to Shawn for sharing - Thanks & Kudos to you! If the negative reviewers want to get a deeper technical knowledge that is accurate to the n-th then go study the appropriate material. Contribute rather than destroy another’s good work. Well done Shawn. Great job!

Good stuff Shawn - very helpful. As a novice, it’s too confusing to figure out in bits and pieces. Thanks for laying it out.

First of all I have to say that Rick ‘the rigger’ is obviously the one with the “over inflated but fragile ego” and I laughed when you suggested he share his knowledge on your blog, well played!

As for the content it’s great, hope to read more soon!

Alec Lowenthal

Shawn, I have a painting of a Spanish vessel, two masted, with. Lateen sails on both masts and a jib. The mainsail is ahead of the main mast (fore) and the other is aft of the mizzen mast. Would this be what you call lugger rig? I have not seen a similar picture. Thanks, Alec.

Thank you for your article I found easy to read and understand, and more importantly remember, which emphasises the well written.. Pity about the negative comments, but love your proactive responses!

This vessel, “SEBASTIAN” out of Garrucha, Almería, España, was painted by Gustave Gillman in 1899.

Sorry, picture not accepted!

Thank you for a very informative article. I sail a bit and am always looking for more knowledge. I like the way you put forth your info and I feel if you can’t say anything positive, then that person should have their own blog or keep their opinions to their-self. I will be looking for more from you. I salute your way of dealing with negative comments.

Thank you for a great intro to sailing boats! I searched different sailboats because I use old sails tp make bags and wanted to learn the difference. Way more than I ever expected. Thanks for all the work put in to teach the rest of us.

Your description of a cutter is lacking, and your illustrations of “cutters” are actually cutter-rigged sloops. On a true cutter, the mast is moved further aft (with more than 40% of the ship forward of the mast). A sloop uses tension in the backstay to tension the luff of the foresail. The cutter can’t do this.

Also, a bermuda-rigged ketch will have a line running from the top of the mainmast to the top of the mizzenmast.

wow great guide to rig types! thanks

Interesting guide, however I am confused about the description of the brig. You say the main mast on a brig can have a lateen sail, but in your picture it looks like a gaff sail to me. How is it a lateen sail?

Hi Shawn, thank you for taking the time to share this information. It is clear and very helpful. I am new to sailing and thinking of buying my own blue water yacht. The information you have supplied is very useful. I still am seeking more information on performance and safety. Please keep up the good work. Best Regards

mickey fanelli

I’m starting to repair a model sailboat used in the lake I have three masts that have long been broken off and the sails need replacement. So my question is there a special relationship between the three masts I do have reminents of where the masts should go. they all broke off the boat along with the sails I can figure out where they go because of the old glue marks but it makes no sense. or does it really matter on a model thank you mickey

Cool, total novice here. I have learnt a lot. Thanks for sharing - the diagrams along with the text make it really easy to understand, especially for a beginner who hasn’t even stepped on a sailing boat.

Daryl Beatt

Thank you. Cleared up quite a few things for me. For example, I was familiar with the names “Xebecs” and “Polaccas” from recent reading about the Barbary War. I had gathered that the two Barbary types were better suited to sailing in the Med, but perhaps they were less able to be adaptable to military uses,(but one might assume that would be ok if one plans to board and fight, as opposed to fight a running gun duel). Specifically, the strangely one sided August 1, 1801 battle between the USS Enterprise under Lt. John Sterett and the Polacca cruiser Tripoli under Admiral Rais Mahomet Rous. On paper both ships seemed nearly equal in size, guns and crew, but pictures of the battle are confusing. While the Enterprise is usually rendered as the familiar schooner, the polacca Tripoli has been pictured in radically different ways. Thus the Wikipedia picture by Hoff in 1878 used to illustrate the Battle shows a Brig design for Tripoli, indicating 77 years later, polaccas were no longer common.

Lee Christiansen

I am curious as to what you would call a modern race boat with a fractional jib,not equipped for full masthead hoist? Thanks Lee

Thanks Guy: The information and pictures really eliminate a lot of the mystery of the terminology and the meanings. Also appreciate the insight of the handling idiosyncrasies “hand” (staff) requirements to manage a vessel for one that has not been on the water much. I long to spend significant time afloat, but have concern about the ability to handle a vessel due to advancing age. The Significant Other prefers to sit (in AC comfort)and be entertained by parties of cruise line employees. Thanks again for the information.

Gordon Smith

Your discussion made no mention of the galleon, a vessel with either square-rigged Fore and Main masts and a shorter lateen-rigged Mizzen, or, on larger galleons, square-rigged Fore and Main masts, with a lateen-rigged Mizzen and a lateen-rigged Bonaventure mast, both shorter than either the Fore or Main masts. Also, it was not uncommon for a galleon to hoist a square-rigged bowsprit topsail in addition to the usual square-rigged spritsail.

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SAILS & RIGGING: Junk Rigs For Cruisers

I HAVE ALWAYS been very attracted to junk rigs, first, I suppose, because they seem so very strange and archaic. As one early Western proponent, a British cruiser named Brian Platt , who sailed from Hong Kong to California under junk rig in the late 1950s, once wrote: “Nobody could have designed the Chinese Sail, if only for fear of being laughed at. A device so elaborate and clumsy in conception, yet so simple and handy in operation could only have evolved through trial and error.”

Junk rigs are in fact safer and much easier to operate than Marconi rigs, hence they probably deserve more attention as a modern cruising rig than they currently receive. As far as we know, the rig was first adapted for use on a Western vessel when Joshua Slocum installed three junk sails on the 35-foot boat Liberdade he built in Brazil in 1887 after he and his family were shipwrecked there. Liberdade performed quite well, covering a total of 5,500 miles (from Brazil to the United States) in 52 sailing days, with daily runs as high as 180 miles. Afterwards, Slocum pronounced the junk rig “the most convenient boat rig in the whole world.”

Joshua Slocum and family aboard his junk-rigged dory Liberdade

In spite of this stamp of approval, the junk rig remained mostly a unique creature of the East for another 70 years. It wasn’t until 1960, when retired British army officer Colonel H.G. “Blondie” Hasler took second place in the first singlehanded transatlantic race aboard a 25-foot junk-rigged Swedish folkboat named Jester , that Western sailors again took a serious look at this eclectic apparatus.

China Blue , a junk-rigged replica of Blondie Hasler’s famous folkboat Jester

Since then it has remained persistently attractive to a very small minority of cruisers who desire an easily handled rig above all else. At least two American yacht designers, Jay Benford and Tom Colvin , both of whom favor traditional craft generally, have specified junk rigs on a number of their designs. Of these, Colvin’s 42-foot junk schooner Gazelle , designed to be built in steel or aluminum , is certainly the most popular. Junk rigs are slightly more prevalent in Great Britain, and there have even been a small number of junk-rigged British fiberglass production boats built over the years. There is at least one British specialty broker and builder, Sunbird Marine , that deals primarily in junk-rigged boats.

In essence, a junk rig consists of a fully battened balanced lug-sail (the Chinese describe it as “an ear listening for the wind”) that is hoisted on a mast that is either freestanding or only lightly supported by a few shrouds. Unlike a conventional Western sail, which has a simple unitary airfoil shape, a junk sail has a more complex scalloped shape. As such, the aerodynamics of the two sails are entirely different. Where a Western sail depends on a smooth laminar flow of air across its surface, a junk sail is believed to rely on turbulent airflow to operate effectively, although no one is exactly sure how this works.

On a Western sail, battens are used only to expand the area of the roach and to help maintain a shape that is inherent to the sail itself. They are very flat and are built into the sail so as not to disturb the airflow. On a junk rig, battens are integral to the rig. They are more tubular and stand proud from the sail, in effect acting as small booms that separate the different panels of the sail from each other. They also disturb the airflow over the sail, creating a series of vortices across its surface. Each batten is attached separately to the mast by a rope parrel and is controlled by a separate sheet, or sheetlet. These are gathered together in series through crude friction blocks known as euphroes. In some cases, if there is not room on deck to lead a single set of sheetlets aft of the sail, two separate groups of sheetlets control the battens from either side of the sail.

This sounds complicated, but in practice the rig is simple to operate. A junk sail can be a bit cumbersome to hoist, due to the weight of all its battens and the many bits of line that can snag on something, but once up it is easy to manage. Because the sail is balanced, with area both forward and aft of the mast, there is no risk of power-jibing, since the sail brakes itself as it pivots about the mast. It never flogs in a breeze, but instead flutters quietly. Because there is no headsail to bother with, tacking the rig is effortless. Best of all, when it comes time to reef there is no drama or anxiety. You simply release the halyard and the sail drops neatly down into its lazyjacks, panel by panel, no matter how hard the wind is blowing. There’s no need to luff up or ease sheets to spill air from the sail, nor is it necessary to tie down or secure the reefed portion of the sail.

A Jay Benford-designed dory with a junk rig reefed down in a brisk breeze

A junk rig is also inexpensive to create and easy to maintain. It requires little or no standing rigging, and the sail itself is never heavily loaded, so almost any material can be used as sailcloth. The Chinese literally build sails out of rags and old canvas sacks. Some modern junk-rig sailors like to use Sunbrella, the UV-resistant acrylic material normally used to make sail covers and dodgers, so that they never have to worry about covering their sails. Because the cloth is cut flat with no shape to it, rank amateurs can build their own sails. And if a junk sail ever tears, the hole can be safely ignored, as it does not otherwise decrease the sail’s efficiency and the battens normally prevent it from spreading from panel to panel.

Battens for a junk sail likewise can be made from most any convenient material. The Chinese have traditionally used bamboo and most modern Western rigs employ fiberlgass rods, but anything with an appropriate shape and weight can be pressed into service. So it is with the entirety of the rig. No specially made fittings are required. Most anything found laying about that looks like it might serve most likely will.

Here again is Brian Platt on the issue of maintenance:

The materials and workmanship that go into a Chinese sail, if applied to a Western rig, would blow to pieces in the first serious wind. The sail cloth is poor quality shirting-material, bound together with huge “homeward-bound” stitches. The battens are attached to the sail with a few strands of wire. There is no reinforcing in the way of the battens and no grommets. The wire is simply pushed through the cloth and round the batten a couple of times. The Chinese operates his boat on a very tight budget but he would use better materials if he thought they were necessary. In fact, the strains on a Chinese sail are so much less, due to the absence of flogging and slatting, that such materials are perfectly adequate. As for the workmanship, the Chinese sees no point in making it out of proportion to the materials.

This creatively rigged Wharram catamaran has “biplane” junk sails flying side by side

Performance-wise it is hard to compare a junk rig to a conventional Marconi rig, as the principles involved are so different. Any sailor familiar with a Marconi rig probably won’t be able to hop aboard a junk-rigged boat and sail it well without first practicing for a while. For Western sailors used to sails with a lot of draft it is hard to know when a junk sail is properly trimmed. Reportedly, even a little over-sheeting will instantly stall a junk sail and kill its drive. Those with a light touch on the helm and a strong intuitive sense of when a boat is pulling along at its best usually achieve the best results.

A junk rig generally does not sail to windward as well as a Marconi rig. Some claim, however, that though junks can’t point as high, they can sail faster closehauled. Others believe junks can point high if the panels in the sail are nicely cambered and are not kept too flat. On a reach a junk sails well, since the many sheetlets allow exact control of twist; on a run, at least in a moderate to strong wind, it is nearly ideal, as the entire sail, like a square sail, can be presented to the wind at a perfect right angle. A junk rig is weak downwind in light air, however, as usually there is no way to increase sail area by flying spinnakers and the like. A rig with multiple masts–two-masted junk schooners are a popular Western variant, while three-masted rigs are common in Asia–can, however, be flown goose-winged, with sails plopped out on either side, which helps to some extent.

The real deal. A Chinese junk with its rig splayed out on a run

Truth be told, of course, no sailor who is very interested in performance is likely to take a junk rig very seriously. Really it is a rig for lazy cruisers, which is the other big reason I find it attractive. The older I get, the lazier I often feel when it comes to sailing, and sometimes I am fairly certain I will end up owning and sailing a junk of my own before I am done with this sport.

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Such an useful blog on SAILS & RIGGING: Junk Rigs For Cruisers detailed explanation with snaps. . cruising spinnaker.

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No Visible Means of Support – Freestanding Rigs

Posted by Rob Mazza | Boat Reviews , BWI Award-Winning Articles , Monohull , Reviews

Freestanding rigs offer an intriguing comparison to traditional, stayed masts.

I n 1985, when I joined the office of Mark Ellis Design , Mark took me sailing aboard a Nonsuch 30 called Lotus . He wanted to demonstrate the Nonsuch and the advantages of its unstayed, freestanding rig. With Mark sailing the boat entirely on his own, we charged upwind in a nice breeze, tacking at will with just his simple turning of the wheel. Then we went off on a reach with the main eased but with just a comfortable amount of weather helm. But the real revelation came when we turned downwind. Mark simply eased the main out beyond 90 degrees, with no shrouds getting in the way, allowing us to sail slightly by the lee with no real threat of an accidental jibe.

That day on the water made clear the ways in which a freestanding rig could make sailing easier–hence, more accessible—to many. There are really only two ways to hold a mast upright: support it with wires, or bury its base soundly below decks and build it strong and flexible enough to support itself. The former is the stayed mast, the latter is known as the freestanding mast. And while the freestanding mast has been around for a long time (think junk, lug, or cat rigs), daring innovators of the 1970s, including Mark Ellis, began to mate a freestanding mast to modern hulls. The result was a rig that offered benefits (and a few drawbacks) compared to boats with stayed masts. But there’s more to understanding freestanding rigs than weighing the pros and cons—lots more .

What’s Old Is New

While both freestanding and stayed masts have been around as long as there have been sailboats, stayed rigs have vastly outnumbered freestanding rigs throughout western and European history. The only boats that have consistently used freestanding masts are those on which the mast was placed so far forward in the hull that there was not enough beam to allow the installation of chainplates and shrouds. That applied specifically to catboats, on which the mast was located as far forward in the boat as possible to set one large single sail—think Gloucester , the subject of Winslow Homer’s famous oil on canvas, “Breezing Up (A Fair Wind),” which he painted in the 1870s.

One hundred years after Homer’s lovely work, along came Gary Hoyt’s Freedom 40 in 1976, rigged as a cat ketch using two freestanding rigs of almost equal height. Other Freedom designs followed, and then in 1978 came the Nonsuch 30, a boat with a mast so far forward that its design is predicated on the same criteria as Homer’s Gloucester : lack of beam to install chainplates. (The 30 was soon followed by the 26, 36, 22, 33, and the cat ketch Nereus 40, all originally with spun-tapered aluminum masts.)

The inspiration behind the Nonsuch 30 was noted Toronto yachtsman Gordon Fisher, who worked closely with Ellis to realize Fisher’s vision of a boat that was simple to sail with minimum crew. Fisher had owned several CCA and IOR racers and had become disillusioned with their complexity, cost, and difficulty to sail. He sought a simpler approach.

While Freedom started with an innovative, cat ketch, freestanding rig atop a hull with a shoal-draft, full keel with a centerboard, Nonsuch perched a traditional East Coast catboat design atop a modern hull with separate keel and rudder. As with all catboats, the freestanding mast for the single sail was located well forward. The primary improvement on the traditional gaff-rigged catboat configuration was to introduce a more flexible, tapered aluminum mast to support a single high-aspect-ratio sail, combined with a hull shape and keel configuration that did not build weather helm with heel angle, so prevalent in the traditional, wide-beam, centerboard catboat. A wishbone boom meshed with the desire for simplicity, self-vanging as it is. (The wishbone angle was increased on all Nonsuch models that followed the 30 to take greater advantage of its self-vanging characteristic.)

My sail with Mark aboard the jib-less, stay-less Lotus was eye-opening, and when we came off the wind, I realized that if the mainsheet were long enough, we could ease the main until it was streaming directly downwind. But surely, jibing such a large single sail would be a handful?

Yes and no—and again, history provided a guide.

The 19th-century sloops on the Hudson River, sailed by a man and a boy, developed a jibing technique that involved turning the boat over 90 degrees through the jibe so that when the main came around, it would have a soft landing and even luff slightly on what was now slightly closer than a beam reach. Once the main was on the new jibe, the course could be adjusted to downwind.

This maneuver is not for the faint of heart, but we performed the Hudson River jibe several times without incident. It was quite a demonstration of the ease-of-sailhandling advantages of the freestanding rig.

With the feasibility and success of mating freestanding rigs to modern hulls and sail plans established, other designers and companies followed Freedom and Nonsuch. Designer Yves-Marie Tanton drew his take on the freestanding rig for Offshore Yachts, a line that began with the 44 in 1980, all built by Ta Chiao in Taiwan. Eric Sponberg also designed many boats with freestanding rigs, parlaying the engineering experience he derived from working at Tillotson-Pearson, builders of the carbon-fiber masts used by Freedom.

Design Considerations

To deepen our understanding of these fundamentally different philosophies in rig design, let’s start by understanding the primary difference between a modern freestanding mast and conventional stayed mast. To be freestanding, a mast must be stepped through a substantial collar at deck level and be seated in an equally substantial mast step beneath the cabin sole. In this way, the mast is essentially a cantilevered beam, subjected to bending loads only. To withstand these loads, the mast must be broader at the deck, tapering towards the top, and made of materials that possess the necessary strength and flexibility characteristics.

Stayed masts, on the other hand, are held upright by stays and shrouds. Stays support the mast fore and aft, while shrouds support the mast transversely. Unlike freestanding masts, stayed masts can be either stepped on deck or through the deck on the keel, although keel-stepping the mast provides better lower column support. A stayed mast is subject to compression loads—a downward force on the mast column—induced by the tension on the shrouds and stays. If not designed properly, these loads can lead to the column buckling between the support points at the deck and spreaders. Unlike a freestanding mast, on which width tapers with height, the profile of a stayed mast remains essentially uniform over its length.

Sailboat designers have varied means of managing the potential loads on a stayed mast. For example, they can widen the base of the rig by moving the shrouds and chainplates outboard, reducing the total compression load on the mast proportionally. They can introduce more spreaders and shrouds to reduce the length of each unsupported section of column—greatly reducing the risk of buckling (the critical buckling load is inversely proportional to the squared function of length). They can sweep the spreaders aft, inducing some fore and aft support from the shrouds. Those are a lot of factors to consider and balance.

The designer of a boat with a freestanding rig faces fewer such factors, and they are primarily material choice (aluminum or carbon fiber), mast diameter, and mast wall thickness. For example, to reduce the weight of a freestanding mast of a given material, a designer has only to increase the mast diameter and reduce the wall thickness. However, this decision has the detrimental effect of increasing windage—both the overall windage of the mast, as well as the windage that disrupts the clean airflow as it meets the sail luff. In fact, the weight-or-windage dilemma is the reason there are few racing boats, other than one-design dinghies, with freestanding rigs.

A huge advantage of the freestanding mast is its ability to bend, both to absorb forces and control sail shape. The use of mast bend to control sail shape came to the fore in racing dinghies. The Finn, OK Dinghy, and Laser have all shown the benefit of mast bend to flatten a sail in heavy weather, as well as the benefits of the mast falling off to leeward in gusts to spill wind, relieving stress on the boat (and on the hiking helmsman). These dinghies also demonstrated that a single sail could go upwind very well, thank you very much. A jib was not essential.

Of course, mast bend also became popular in stayed rigs to control mainsail fullness, but the desired bend must be induced with equipment and crew, whereas it happens automatically on a freestanding rig. And mast bend in stayed rigs can be induced only fore and aft, not transversely. Finally, inducing mast bend in a stayed rig immediately takes the mast out of column fore and aft, requiring the use of running backstays to prevent buckling of the column. Compared to a freestanding rig, mast bend in stayed rigs is a complicated affair.

As well, a freestanding mast exerts an entirely different set of forces on the hull it’s attached to. While a stayed mast transfers a tremendous compression load to the mast step and a huge lifting force on the windward chainplate, a freestanding mast exerts none of those forces. Being a cantilever, the freestanding mast is supported in bending by the mast collar (at deck level) and the mast step. Because the mast is essentially a lever (picture a crowbar), with the fulcrum at the deck partners and the sail heeling forces acting at a point well above deck, you can see how great the “prying load” would be on the mast step.

While these forces are intuitive, there is a less intuitive and equally significant force that can be exerted on the hull by a freestanding mast: torsional loads. And the hull of a boat with a freestanding mast must be built to withstand them.

Thanks to its hull shape and low center of gravity achieved with a ballast keel, a sailboat resists heeling. This resistance is called the righting moment. When wind pushes on a sail and that force is transferred to the mast and to the hull, that force is called the heeling moment. If the wind is strong enough, the heeling moment will exceed the righting moment and the sailboat will heel. (As the sailboat heels, the righting moment increases; when the two forces are in balance, the boat will cease further heeling.)

A sailboat’s total righting moment can be considered roughly centered fore-aft, adjacent to the center of gravity and center of buoyancy, in the vicinity of the keel. On a sailboat with a stayed mast, the mast is usually located about the same place, where the hull is beamy enough to attach shrouds. This works well, because the mast is exerting its heeling moment at roughly the same place that the hull is countering with its righting moment.

In the case of the Nonsuch, the mast is stepped well forward of the hull’s righting moment. All good, except that when the forward-positioned mast exerts a heeling moment, that torque is resisted where the righting moment is, which might be, for example, many feet aft of the mast. That torsional or twisting load has to be absorbed by the hull. Nonsuches have a full bulkhead installed immediately aft of the mast to help transfer these torsional loads as well as to prevent hull distortion from the opposing mast collar and mast step loadings.

From an engineering point of view, a freestanding mast is a simpler design problem than a stayed mast with one exception: fatigue loading. Without question, the Achilles heel of aluminum freestanding masts has been metal fatigue, caused by the constant repetition of alternating loads. Compared to their stayed counterparts, freestanding masts are always in motion. With any structure subject to oscillating loads, be it an aircraft wing, bridge, or road sign, the ultimate life of that structure is a function of the loading experienced, the number of oscillating cycles encountered, and the stress concentrations involved. The higher the loading, the fewer cycles can be absorbed before fatigue failure. This inter-relationship between loading, stress concentrations, and the number of cycles all has to be taken into account in designing for fatigue. The key is to keep the working load below what is known as the “fatigue limit.” If that is done, then a long life of well over a million cycles is pretty well assured.

On a heeled Nonsuch, where the mast is a cantilever beam in bending, the weather side of the mast is in tension, while the leeward side is in compression. When the boat tacks, the forces reverse. As the mast pumps in a seaway, the loads fluctuate. Over time, the sides of the mast alternate from tension to compression hundreds or thousands of times depending on how and how often the boat is used. This is classic fatigue loading.

Fatigue loading becomes especially problematic when there are holes drilled in the lower section of the spar. These holes introduce stress concentrations—or stress risers—that can result in fatigue cracks that then emanate from the holes, especially if they have rough edges or sharp corners. A number of early Nonsuch spars failed due to this problem, with fatigue cracks emanating from either the hole drilled for the mast tiedown pin at the mast collar or from the halyard exit. The fasteners at the mast splice were another source of problems, requiring a variety of remedies. Designers eventually figured out that the solution to fatigue failures involved avoiding holes in the mast and ensuring the mast wall thickness was sufficient to extend the fatigue limit. It took a while and involved the redesign and replacement of a lot of mast lower sections, but now aluminum freestanding rigs can be assured of many years of service.

Ultimately, the Nonsuch adopted carbon-fiber masts that had their own stringent requirements for the fastening of hardware and drilling of holes.

Almost 40 years after Mark Ellis impressed me with a sail on Lotus , the majority of sailboat masts are still held upright with wires. Despite their benefits as extolled by their devoted followers, we still don’t see many sailboats with freestanding masts in our marinas. I’m not sure this situation will change anytime soon.

A Term is Born

Eric Sponberg, a naval architect who designed the masts used on several of the boats built by Freedom Yachts, did not like the term “unstayed” applied to these spars. “It sounded too negative,” he says on his website, ericwsponberg.com. “I adopted the term ‘freestanding’ to describe these rigs with no wires holding them up because it sounded like a much more positive term.”

Why Marconi?

It is ironic that the term Marconi rig is used to describe the high-aspect-ratio, triangular sail attached to a tall freestanding spar, such as that on the Nonsuch. The term Marconi rig was introduced in the early 20th century as sail plans transitioned from the traditional gaff rig to elongated higher-aspect-ratio “leg ’o mutton” or Bermuda rigs on tall, single-piece masts. People thought that the large numbers of wires required to support these slender masts resembled the wires supporting the Marconi radio towers springing up all over North America at that time. The term began to apply to the sail shape that these masts could support, rather than the mast itself. The irony is that a sail configuration owing its designation to a large number of supporting wires actually has no wires on the Nonsuch and other freestanding masts. But the designation persists.

The Marion, Massachusetts, Marconi array, circa 1914. Photo courtesy Sippican Historical Society.

A Single-Sail Precation

In a boat where all or the majority of the sail area is in one sail only, any loss of that sail due to a major tear, headboard failure, or loss of a halyard can be catastrophic—especially when sailing offshore. The primary source of propulsion is lost, with the engine now the only option. That single sail really is putting all the eggs in one basket. When considering the importance of the sail to a freestanding mast, a sailor should think also about the failure points that could affect a crew’s ability to fly the sail, such as the halyard, mainsheet, sail track, and topping lift. In addition, some owners pull their freestanding masts annually to inspect hardware and look for stress cracks.

Freedom 40: The First

The Freedom 40 was the first boat to take real advantage of and popularize the bend characteristics inherent in the freestanding rig. But in addition to its freestanding masts, the Freedom 40 was a platform for other innovations—some successful, others not so much. Among these was a wraparound sail rather than sail tracks to mate the sail with the mast, as well as a wishbone boom straddling the sail and spar, rather than a conventional boom and vang. It soon became obvious, however, that when the wraparound sail got wet it was difficult to lower, raise, or reef. Some earlier Freedoms also experimented—briefly—with rotating masts. Freedom eventually abandoned the wraparound sail and wishbone boom and adopted fully battened sails on tracks with conventional booms. Although the use of the carbon-fiber freestanding rig was, without question, Gary Hoyt’s inspiration and execution, Freedom went through a variety of hull designers including Halsey Herreshoff, Jay Paris, Ron Holland, Dave Pedrick, and Gary Mull (as well as Gary Hoyt himself in the earlier models). The hulls evolved from shoal-draft, full-keel configurations with centerboards to the separate keel and rudders of their IOR sisters. In fact, in Freedom Yacht’s long history under various owners, the only real constant was the commitment to the freestanding rig, with ketches giving way to sloop rigs even in the largest models.

About The Author

Rob Mazza is a Good Old Boat contributing editor. He set out on his career as a naval architect in the late 1960s when he began working for Cuthbertson & Cassian. He's been familiar with good old boats from the time they were new and had a hand in designing a good many of them.

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Marilee: The inside story of the 1926 Herreshoff NY40’s remarkable restoration

• September 3, 2019

Marilee is one of just four remaining ‘Fighting Forties’. The 1926 Nat Herreshoff design has just undergone an incredible restoration. Alison Langley reports

When the New York Yacht Club commissioned the new NY40 one-design class in 1916 Nathanael Herreshoff’s objective was to design a competitive racer that was seaworthy enough for ocean racing, yet also provided elegant accommodation for coastal cruising.

The rules required that owners helm the yacht – except when the boat was on a run or a reach. Professional crew was limited to four, with an additional two allowed when racing. The rest of the crew would be ‘Corinthian’ sailors.

The design initially came under criticism for its wide beam and high freeboard – a major shift from Herreshoff’s earlier class racers. It was given the moniker ‘the flying saucer’, but it wasn’t long before the boat’s performance was proven and the flying saucers soon became known as the ‘Fighting Forties’.

The 12 original NY40s only saw two racing seasons before World War I put a halt to sailing. Competition resumed in 1920. In 1926, two new NY40s were launched: Marilee (hull 955) for Edward I Cudahy, and her sistership, Rugosa II (hull 983). The two boats were identical in their lines, but Marilee featured a newly designed coach house, accommodation plan, and a larger cockpit.

The NY40s were known to race hard in their heyday, producing some infamous battles. The boats were also renowned for their hearty seaworthiness, and despite their vast sail areas were famously rarely reefed. Just four NY40s survive and race today: the well-known Rowdy , Chinook , Rugosa , and Marilee .

Although the war had ended, the United States had not fully recovered economically in the ’20s. The trend was for smaller boats and by 1927 most of the NY40 fleet had been sold, continuing to cruise and race only periodically.

In 1933, Marilee was given an engine, and was one of several Forties who traded her gaff and massive sail areas for a more manageable Marconi rig.

She received her first major refit some six decades later, in preparation for the 2001 America’s Cup Jubilee Regatta at Cowes. Seventy-five years after the last true season of NY40 class racing, Marilee and Rugosa tied for first overall at the regatta. Marilee went on to race with success on the Med classic circuit.

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Stripped back

A bottom-up restoration for Marilee wasn’t on the radar in 2014. Then just some aesthetic improvements, racing enhancements, and ‘light structural’ projects were on the docket.

French & Webb was chosen to undertake the work, while Kurt Hasselbalch, curator of the MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology) Hart Nautical Collections, which houses Herreshoff’s original plans and drawings, was to prove a valuable member of the restoration team.

Marilee was literally pulled back into shape using chain fails

In early winter 2014 they began with a 3D scan of the existing hull. This, combined with a CAD drawing created from the original Herreshoff plans, enabled the team to accurately examine Marilee ’s current shape and compare it with the design from 1926. They discovered that the deck line and sheer were grossly misshapen – by over four inches – from years of unsupported rigging loads.

That first winter a portion of the keel was replaced, along with the horn timber, and approximately 80 per cent of the floor frames. Bronze plates were incorporated for added strength and resilience in the floor frame connections and the mast base itself. Additionally, two of the hull frames were cut to double thickness for exponentially more hull stiffness.

Around half the planking was replaced, both single and double planks, using custom- designed fasteners. The wheel was replaced with a tiller and an accompanying rudder, all built according to original Herreshoff plans. Lastly, the engine was moved from far aft, where it was unsupported, to the centre of the boat – better for racing and also for the structure of the boat.

The original Herreshoff order book shows hull #955

After being rapidly relaunched for a summer of racing in 2014, the following autumn Marilee entered her second phase of restoration, and there was quite a bit more to do. The yard had to completely rip the boat apart, breaking it all the way back down to just framing and planking.

When the chainplates were removed, it was found that the boltholes were oblong, and that the sheer plank had lifted vertically from the strain on planks below. To avoid any similar problems in the future, and strengthen the mast-step foundation, the chainplates were attached to a large bronze load plate that would be fastened to the hull framing. A team of metalsmiths custom-fabricated all the hardware, in place, to ensure a perfect fit.

The high-stress area of the running backstay terminals were treated the same way, but in practice this was much more complex, because it meant hand-rolling a load plate to fit a curved area of the hull. Additionally a bronze knee was welded to the framework. The largest loads are now distributed along this custom-fabricated bronze framework.

Originality

When Marilee was originally launched, her coach house and larger cockpit gave her a distinctive silhouette. But by 2015 Marilee ’s deck furniture had grown tired, heavy and Victorian in style. It was not up to the usual Herreshoff standard.

Todd French and team planned to return Marilee to her original proportions on deck. The coach houses, skylight, hatches, coamings, and cockpit were all rebuilt to correct scale and accuracy, while restoring them to clean, utilitarian, fine shapes.

Additional design elements, such as the 90-year-old antique glass layered under safety glass, brought character back to the coachhouse. Marilee ’s signature pugilist ‘Fighting Forties’ racing logo was etched in the glass mirror.

River-aged cypress and antique textiles bring character to the interior

Marilee ’s owner had the bold vision to create an interior that reflected the yacht’s century-long provenance while creating an open space below. Having seen hundreds of classic yachts around the world, he realised that many interiors were dominated by darkness in all things from varnish to seat cushions. These ‘cigar room’ interiors often simply don’t translate in a modern era, where people value a more relaxed style of comfort.

It became clear from comparing plans that ever since the inception of the class, the interior space has been personal to each owner. In fact, Herreshoff designed many different layouts to accommodate the widely varied preferences of each NY40 owner. With this in mind, Marilee ’s restoration team set out to create a fresh, innovative space.

The team worked with Paul Waring of Stephens Waring Yacht Design, to create a traditional and properly constructed interior with an updated layout for modern day use. They chose to emphasise one of Herreshoff’s guiding principles: of uncluttered sightlines.

Bronze load plates and additional hanging knees make interior features

Panelled bulkheads, seating areas, and functional areas were crafted out of cypress, as specified in Herreshoff’s NY40 plans. To create the desired patina, materials were sought that were authentic to Marilee ’s original design. So old growth cypress logs that were sunken for 150 years in a North Carolina riverbed were resurrected and sawn for her interior bulkheads.

The team used distressing techniques and custom finishes that were available at the time of her original build, to create a sense of depth and age to the newly made panels.

Metalwork of bronze and copper was forged, cast, and fabricated with metallurgy techniques used over a century ago in Bristol on the USA’s eastern seaboard, integrating structural and aesthetic elements.

During restoration Marilee’s original compass was inset into the top of a chest of drawers in the aft cabin

With the help of interior designer Angela Thompson, antique linens, leathers, wood and pewter accents brought additional texture and warmth to the space. An American flag, used for the privacy café curtain, is an authentic 45-star flag. Leather drawer handles and locker pulls were sewn by hand, using old weaving techniques.

A modern addition came in the form of hidden LED lights, which were installed to highlight the design details and emphasise the interior sight line. The updated lights also extend the usefulness of the cabins and saloon well beyond sundown.

Ultimately, the owner felt strongly that stepping into a classic yacht’s interior should be comforting, like wearing a well-loved T-shirt or pair of jeans.

Marconi and gaff rigs

Marilee is the only NY40 to have had both rigs designed by Herreshoff. All-bronze hardware was used for authenticity

When looking through all of the original drawings at MIT’s Hart Nautical Collections, Kurt Hasselbalch discovered more #955 plans for Marilee than he had previously known existed.

In particular, he uncovered a drawing of a Marconi rig, originally designed for Marilee ’s 1933 refit. To find a Herreshoff-penned design of a modern rig was an incredible discovery.

It was decided that it would be possible to sail Marilee with two different rigs. Armed with the original Herreshoff drawings, the team set out to design a Bermudan rig that would be as fast and competitive as her current setup, maybe even faster. It also gives the owner options, with a larger sail inventory and the advantages of flexible race ratings.

A unique custom fabrication was designed to support the loads at the bow that were expected with a Bermudan rig. Blindly notched into the underside of her bowsprit is a split bronze tang, ready to accept the new headstay and tack fitting.

This tang is directly attached to a giant bronze framework that was carved into the stemhead, with multiple bolts connecting the deck structure to this new stem fitting. In less than an hour, the bowsprit can be removed and the rigging adjusted to accept the headstay loads of a Bermudan rig.

Marilee is raced without lifelines, but threaded sockets were machined along the edge of her deck to help crew stay safe when sailing offshore between regattas

At the transom, a similarly hidden provision was installed to accept a fixed backstay attachment. The new mast was also designed to plug directly into the existing chainplate locations. The mast step and partners were elongated with specific moulds designed to fit either gaff or Marconi mast.

The construction proved to be a challenge, explains Todd French of French & Webb: “Because of the fore and aft forces on this type of rig, the 84ft [Marconi] mast had a more elliptical section. Taller and lighter than the gaff round mast, she was supported by double sets of spreaders.”

Internal halyards were used, and all mast wall penetrations were reinforced with Epoxy G-10 Tube. A square boom section accommodates a loose-footed mainsail.

“ Marilee ’s mast, hollow in section, was constructed of eight staves – three pieces on the front, three on the back, and two expanded side pieces provide a stiffer fore and aft section shape,” explains French. “Skilfully sculpted, these hollow spars appear like one piece of evenly toned wood where even the glue joints look like a grain line.”

Specification

Year launched: 1926 Construction: Wood LOA: 18.0m (59ft) LWL: 12.2m (40ft) Beam: 4.4m (14ft 6in) Draught: 2.5m (8ft 2in) Rig: Gaff sloop, second Marconi rig Sail Area: 195m 2 (2,100ft 2 ) Ballast: Lead

Marconi, Jib-Header, or Bermudian

The evolution of the Marconi rig, unabated in invention, descendent of patent disputes, and improper adjectivization,

Guglielmo Marconi was born at Bologna, Italy, on April 25, 1874, the second son of Giuseppe Marconi, an Italian country gentleman, and Annie Jameson, daughter of Andrew Jameson of Daphne Castle in the County Wexford, Ireland.

During his early years, Marconi studied the works of Maxwell, Righi, Lodge and the detailed accounts of Heinrich Hertz, who, beginning in 1888, demonstrated that one could produce and detect electromagnetic radiation—now generally known as radio waves.

In 1895 Marconi, utilizing Heinrich Hertz spark arrester, a Alexander Stepanovich Popov antenna and a Edouard Blamely coherer, succeeded in sending wireless signals over a distance of one and a half miles.

The young Marconi had taken out the first wireless telegraphy patent in England in 1896, which was grated in March of 1897. His device had only a two-circuit system, which some said could not transmit “across a pond.”

Nikola Tesla was born “at the stroke of midnight” during a summer lightning storm on July 10, 1856 in Smiljan, Lika, which was then part of the Austo-Hungarian Empire, region of Croatia. Tesla’s interest in electrical invention was inspired by his mother, Djuka Mandic, who invented small household appliances in her spare time while her son was growing up. Tesla’s father, Milutin Tesla, was an Orthodox priest and a writer,

Nikola Tesla immigrated to the United States in 1884 to work for Thomas Edison in New York City. He soon struck out on his own with financial backers, setting up laboratories and companies to develop a range of electrical devices.

In 1891 Tesla invented the infamous Tesla Coil, an air-core resonating transformer which would become the forerunner of the radio-frequency coil and allowed the “Radio Age” to take one of it’s first formative steps.

By early 1895, Tesla was ready to transmit a signal 50 miles to West Point, New York… But in that same year, disaster struck. A building fire consumed Tesla’s lab, destroying his work.

Tesla filed his own basic American radio patent applications in 1897. They were granted in 1900.

In 1899, through the use of Tesla’s oscillators Marconi successfully  transmitted across the English Channel. Later Marconi then placed an antenna and receiving station at the “Twin Lights” Navesink Light Station to demonstrate his Wireless Telegraph. The New York Herald newspaper had hired him to report on the 1899 America’s Cup yacht races which were being held off the tip of Sandy Hook, the first use of wireless telegraphy on a commercial basis.

The increased length of the transmitter and receiver antennas, increased transmitting distances significantly. Mast-like wireless antennas, with many complex standing supporting cables, a concept that was used and incorporated in 1912 on  Charles Ernest Nicholson’s revolutionary 15mR ISTRIA.  Her first sailing season brought great success, winning 23 out of 36 races.

William Fife’s 15-Metre LADY ANNE built in 1912 was altered in 1913 with the Jib-headed rig, but the “Great War” intervened in the 1914 season before much use could be made of her.

Until, British yacht designer, Charles E. Nicholson developed ISTRIA’s new mast, the topsail was laced to a jack-yard, which was then hoisted from the heavy solid cored topmast. The cleverness of the new mast lies wherein the topmast were hollow and were extended to the full height of a jack-yard, and the leading edge of the topsail is hoisted on a track for its full length. The main advantages of this design lay in improved sail shape.

The new rigs, were known at the time as “fish-pole” mast. These mast, with marconi-like rigging, were adaptions of the Bermuda rig, forebears of the Jamaican sloops of the 17th century.

After ISTRIA came the 1917 William Gardner  designed  VARUNA, the Larchmont Yacht Club’s flagship, She was built for, the Commodore of the club, James B. Ford of Rye, New York. VARUNA was the first American  designed yacht fitted out with the innovative and controversial Marconi rig. VARUNA was skippered by Butler Whiting and she proved conclusively, for the first time, that the Marconi rig was the fastest. The Marconi rigs came out in force at the close of World War I, and owe their success and use to ISTRIA and Larchmont O VARUNA.

In November in the year 1920, Mr. Charles Ernest Nicholson protested against the use of the name Marconi, and suggested that it should be called the jib-header. His recommendations found and audience citing that the terminology was incorrect and meaningless. In England the term Marconi was substituted and Marconi, Bermuda or Mudian was used and remains to this day.

By the end of “Great War” and the beginning of the early 20’s many designers were embracing this new concept.  The 1906 Nicholson 28-metre NYRIA, was re-rigged and fitted out with a new jib-headed mainsail. Francis Sweisguth designer of the Star class boat re-rigged the stars to the new Marconi. These great success’s paved the way, revolutionizing the rig for generations to come. “Marconi Rigs,” development of the often misused term Bermuda rig, or Bermudian rig (although non-Bermudians who are ignorant of the proper adjectivization often use Bermudan, this should be avoided as it causes offense to Bermudians.

Through the numerous patent disputes, with Tesla patent being granted in 1900, came controversy. Marconi’s first patent application in America, filed on November 10, 1900, was turned down. Marconi’s revised applications over the next three years were repeatedly rejected because of the priority of Tesla and other inventors.

Otis Pond, an engineer then working for Tesla, said, “Looks as if Marconi got the jump on you.” Tesla replied, “Marconi is a good fellow. Let him continue. He is using seventeen of my patents.”

But Tesla’s calm confidence was shattered in 1904, when the U.S. Patent Office suddenly and surprisingly reversed its previous decisions and gave Marconi a patent for the invention of radio. The reasons for this have never been fully explained, but the powerful financial backing for Marconi in the United States suggests one possible explanation.

With the collective great minds of the “Golden Age” in communication, came great invention to an unrelated industry. The enormous antenna’s  with their shrouds and guys were used as inspiration and guided and changed forever the future of the sailing world. Heavy solid cored mast, would forever be a thing of the past.

MotorBoating Dec 1941 Motorboating – ND Jul 1937 Mocavo / Records / The Dictionary of National Biography The 15-metre class

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The Various Types of Sailboats and Rigs

 Aditya Adjie / EyeEm / Getty Images

The Modern Sloop

The most common type of small-to-midsize sailboat is the sloop. The rig is one mast and two sails. The mainsail is a tall, triangular sail mounted to the mast at its leading edge, with the foot of the sail along the boom, which extends aft from the mast. The sail in front called the jib or sometimes the headsail, mounts on the forestay between the bow and the masthead, with its trailing corner controlled by the jib sheet.

The Bermuda or Marconi Rig

These tall triangular sails are called the Bermuda rig, or sometimes the Marconi rig, named for their development more than two centuries ago in Bermudan boats. Because of the physics of how force is generated by wind blowing past a sail, tall thin sails generally have more power when the boat is sailing into the wind.

Racing Sloop

Gail Oskin / Getty Images

Here is another example of a sloop with a Bermuda rig. This is PUMA Ocean Racing's il Mostro, one of the fastest monohull sailboats in the world, in the 2008/2009 Volvo Ocean Race. The sails are much bigger than found on most cruising sailboats, but the general rig is the same. In both of the sloops shown so far, the jib reaches to the top of the masthead. These are sometimes called masthead sloops.

Fractional Sloop Rig

Ahunt [CC0] / Wikimedia Commons

Here, notice a small racing dinghy with a sloop rig. This is still a Bermuda rig, but the mainsail is proportionally larger and the jib smaller, for ease of handling and maximum power. Note that the top of the jib rises only a fraction of the distance to the masthead. Such a rig is called a fractional sloop.

KenWiedemann / Getty Images

While a sloop always has two sails, a cat-rigged boat generally has only one. The mast is positioned very far forward, almost at the bow, making room for a very long-footed mainsail. The mainsail of a cat rig may have a traditional boom or, as in this boat, a loose-footed mainsail attached at the aft corner to what is called a wishbone boom.

Compared to Bermuda Rigs

A primary advantage of a cat rig is the ease of sail handling, such as not having to deal with jib sheets when tacking. Generally, a cat rig is not considered as powerful as a Bermuda rig, however, and is more rarely used in modern boats.

Cat-Rigged Racing Dinghy

technotr / Getty Images

In this photo, there is another cat rig, which works well on small racing dinghies like this Laser. With a small boat and one sailor, a cat rig has the advantages of being simple to trim and very maneuverable when racing.​

John White Photos / Getty Images

A popular rig for midsize cruising boats is the ketch, which is like a sloop with a second, smaller mast set aft called the mizzenmast. The mizzen sail functions much like a second mainsail. A ketch carries about the same total square footage of sail area as a sloop of the equivalent size.

Make Sail Handling Easy

The primary advantages of a ketch are that each of the sails is usually somewhat smaller than on a sloop of equivalent size, making sail handling easier. Smaller sails are lighter, easier to hoist and trim and smaller to stow. Having three sails also allows for more flexible sail combinations. For example, with the wind at an intensity that a sloop might have to double-reef the main to reduce sail area, a ketch may sail very well under just jib and mizzen. This is popularly called sailing under “jib and jigger”—the jigger being an old square-rigger term for the aft-most mast flying a triangular sail.

While a ketch offers these advantages to cruisers, they may also be more expensive because of the added mast and sail. The sloop rig is also considered faster and is therefore used almost exclusively in racing sailboats.

Public Domain

A yawl is very similar to a ketch. The mizzenmast is usually smaller and sets farther aft, behind the rudder post, while in a ketch the mizzenmast is forward of the rudder post. Aside from this technical difference, the yawl and ketch rigs are similar and have similar advantages and disadvantages.

Tomás Fano [ CC BY-SA 2.0 ], via Wikimedia Commons

A typical schooner has two masts, and sometimes more, but the masts are positioned more forward in the boat. Unlike in a ketch or yawl, the forward mast is smaller than the aft mast (or sometimes the same size). One or more jibs may fly forward of the foremast.

Traditional Schooners

While some modern schooners may use triangular, Bermuda-like sails on one or both masts, traditional schooners like the one shown here have gaff-rigged sails. At the top of the sail is a short spar called the gaff, which allows the sail to extend back along a fourth side, gaining size over a triangular sail of the same height.

Gaff-rigged schooners are still seen in many areas and are well loved for their historic appearance and sweeping lines, but they are seldom used anymore for private cruising. The gaff rig is not as efficient as the Bermuda rig, and the rig is more complicated and requires more crew for sail handling.

Schooner With Topsail and Flying Jibs

  Print Collector   / Getty Images

Above is another gaff-rigged schooner that is using a topsail and several flying jibs. Tacking or gybing a complicated sail plan like this takes a lot of crew and expertise.

Square-Rigged Tall Ship

Bettmann  / Getty Images

In this illustration, notice a large three-masted square-rigger flying five tiers of square sails, several headsails, and a mizzen sail. Although this is a modern ship, one of many still used around the world for sail training and passenger cruise ships, the rig is essentially unchanged from centuries ago. Columbus, Magellan, and the other early sea explorers sailed in square-riggers.

Generating Power

Remarkably efficient sailing downwind or well off the wind, square sails do not generate power from their leading edge as in the Bermuda rig, which has become predominant in modern times. Thus, square-riggers generally do not sail upwind. It was due to this limitation that the great trade wind sailing routes around the world were developed centuries ago.

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• Sailing Rigs

Basic Sailing Rigs shapes

The basic shape of the Sailing Rigs most commonly found on wooden sailing boats of every size.

• Bermudan rig
• Leg O'Mutton

The Bermuda, or Marconi sailing rig, as it is some time called, is the familiar sail configuration most commonly found on modern sailing boats.

As with many sail plans there are countless variations on the theme.

Basically it has a triangular sail set behind the mast.

The foot of the sail is attached to a boom whose angle is controlled by the main sheet.

Originally used on small boats in Bermuda, the addition of a triangular head sail has given rise to the now familiar Bermuda sloop.

The Gaff is the spar from which a four cornered sail is hung.

This allows a fore and aft sail of a larger area, than that of a Bermudan sailing rig, to be hung from a mast of similar height.

The advantage is the large area of sail high up, however the extra weight aloft brings its own complications.

The Lug Sail lies somewhere between the square sail and the gaff rig.The four cornered sail cloth hangs from a yard.

However unlike a square sail the halyard which raises the yard is not attached at the center but nearer to the forward end.

The sail hangs fore and aft with the forward lower corner of the sail held, the lower aft corner attached to the controlling sheet.

With the forward edge hauled down the aft end of the yard is allowed to peak up.

This arrangement is much less complicated than the gaff rig .

There are many variations including the Chinese Junk , the Dipping Lug and the Ballanced Lug .

This arrangement for small boats has a sail behind the mast usually without any supporting stays.

Sprit Sailing Rig

The spritsail is another four cornered, fore and aft sail.

In this case the aft upper corner is held out by a long pole called the sprit.

The bottom end of the sprit is held to the lower mast in an arrangement which allows it to swing laterally.

The upper end of the sprit is attached to the peak of the sail.

This was the favoured sailing rig for Thames Sailing Barges.

The arrangement allowed a small crew (one man, a dog and a boy) to brail up and set the sail without having to raise and lower the heavy spar.

Leg O’ Mutton

In this arrangement the sprit is used to pole out the clew or clue end of a triangular sail.

The lateen is another with its sail hung, fore and aft, from a yard.

However in this case, it is a triangular sail hung from a very long spar on a short mast.

This has historically been the standard rig for those graceful Nile Feluccas and Arab Dhows.

The crab claw is a triangular sail on a short mast.

In this case the sailcloth is supported by spars both along the top and bottom of the sail.

Unlike the lateen where the sail pivots around the mast the crab claw pivots around the upper leading spar.

Traditionally the spars were curved and the leach concave hence its similarity in appearance to a crabs claw.

In craft such as a the proa a change in direction requires the front end of the rig to be moved to the other end of the boat and the boat to then head in the opposite direction.

A Square Rig has four cornered sails suspended from the horizontal yards.

The sail is not necessarily square in shape however, the yards are by definition hung from the middle and at right angles to the centreline.

The yards can be ‘braced’ laterally around the mast. 

However, most traditional square riggers can only sail six or seven points from the wind, at best. 

Shrouds and stays would generally prevent the yard being braced up closer than 3 points from the fore and aft line and the wind would have to be at least a further 3 points aft in order to fill the sail. 

Then once the vessel began to move the apparent wind would begin to move forward requiring the vessel to bear off by another point or so. 

While in use for hundreds of years by western seafarers these sailing rigs would have to wait for favourable winds before setting off. 

Smaller vessels with un-stayed masts could get closer to the wind by effectively turning their ‘square’ sail into a fore and aft Lug Sail.

Gunter is a rig designed more for use on smaller boats.

A gaff supports a triangular sail on a relatively short mast.

The gaff, when hoisted pivots upwards until it is vertical along side the mast.

This allows for a decent sized sailing rig which can be stowed relatively easily.

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> > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 16-12-2011, 22:40   17-12-2011, 00:09   Boat: Under construction 35' ketch (and +3 smaller) 17-12-2011, 00:33   Boat: Cutter-Rigged Moody 54 , plus a sprit and so forth (because the rig is shorter and so must be longer). That would have been the main alternative to the Marconi or rig for pleasure . No one used square rigs on small for centuries -- they are certainly not less expensive or complicated. -- I don't know; that's outside of my experience. Cat rig? Maybe simpler but not really acceptable performance except maybe on a really , unless you have two masts, and then you've already started to defeat the purpose . . . No, I don't know of anything better -- that is, a better balance of , simple and good performance -- than the rig for a pleasure sailing . The Bermuda rig is very and simple. Only two spars (assuming we are not talking about ketches or yawls), no sprit necessary, and higher aspect ratio than other rigs. This rig came into its own when mankind discovered ballasted keels, as this allowed the to be taller; the resulting long leech gives better and better performance upwind. Gaff rigs became obsolete exactly when we discovered ballasted keels. 17-12-2011, 00:54   Boat: Under construction 35' ketch (and +3 smaller) 17-12-2011, 01:24   Boat: Cal 40 (sold). Still have a Hobie 20 to drag ratio. is perpendicular to the apparent and drag is in the same direction that the apparent wind is going to. Sailing upwind the drag is pretty much in the direction to pull the backwards. Best lift to drag ratios are made with high aspect ratio , look at a glider wing as an example. A sailboat's slowest point of sail is trying to make progress into the wind. If you have to sail the same distance upwind and down you spend a lot more time upwind, so optimizing the boat to go upwind results in the most progress in the least amount of time. Same distance upwind and downwind trips happen more on a course than in other forms of sailing. Many forms of transportation mimic to a certain degree what is found on the course, so one reason we have Marconi rigs is due to . I spend a lot of time sailing upwind, if I had a boat that performed poorly to I'd have to do a lot of motoring. Some people never sail to , they would probably go faster with a gaff rig than a Marconi. The Dashews report on their around the world sail on the milk run spending 20% of their time sailing upwind. I don't think that I'm the type to wait days or weeks in port waiting for a change of wind so I'll stay with the Marconi, besides hoisting up a gaff and having to balance pulling the peak and throat halyards sounds like more and complication to me. I have a bit of background, so I might not find sailing upwind is quite as evil as some do. John 17-12-2011, 02:24   Boat: 33ft sloop the majority of my courses are upwind. To be on the lee shore means that you have to deal with all the winds from the western half when winds vary from NW to SW dominantly. John says it all. The sloop-rig or whatever name you give it (Bermuda, Marconi) is the best rig to sail upwind. The today' s hullforms are fashioned after the racers that sail under different conditions, therefore the older designs are much better in upwind sailing. And thus for us upwinders. 17-12-2011, 04:43   Boat: Bavaria 36 17-12-2011, 05:15   Boat: Now boatless :-( 17-12-2011, 05:41   Boat: 33ft sloop is not that much more heavy than the alu one. Problem is mainly the material cost and find the good quality . Modern wooden mast are hollow and glued. So weight is a ver relative subject. The process of making is more expensive and qualified mastbuilders are not that easy found. 17-12-2011, 06:09   Boat: contessa 32 , but there was more motoring to windward. My marconi rigged can be sailed up a waterfall if necessary, and so has become my favorite point of sail (passages excepted). Admittedly form compliments this windward ability,but I no longer have to fear the dreaded LEE SHORE. I realize that I'm inviting some thread drift here, but it's a slow grey morning here in the N.E. so I thought might liven things up. 17-12-2011, 06:15   technology did......I think it's always primarily been a rig for the recreational sailor - rather than a working rig......as one market declined (ended!) the other got bigger. You build for the market - whether the market is right or wrong don't really matter. I the look of Gaff Rig, but would probably never buy one.......(too much string - Additions Welcome. 17-12-2011, 06:22   Boat: Allures 44 in more than 20 knots of breeze, then you appreciate another advantage of the Marconi / Bermuda rig. BTW, racing masts are lighter and more prone to failure, regardless of the material. You can build a strong, long-lasting cruising mast of carbon. If you're skeptical I recommend you avoid flying on modern airliners ; ) 17-12-2011, 06:37   Boat: 33ft sloop in more than 20 knots of breeze, then you appreciate another advantage of the Marconi / Bermuda rig. BTW, racing masts are lighter and more prone to failure, regardless of the material. You can build a strong, long-lasting cruising mast of carbon. If you're skeptical I recommend you avoid flying on modern airliners ; ) 17-12-2011, 07:11   Boat: grampian 26 17-12-2011, 08:22   Boat: 14 meter sloop . Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. Messing about in boats since 1975.  Online Since 1997. Home   |  Intro   |  Our Design Process   |  Stock Design Info   |  Motor Yacht Designs   |  Sailing Yacht Designs   |  Prototype Designs Plans List   |  Articles   |  Our CAD Design Stream   |  Maxsurf   |  News..!   |  SITE MAP..!   |  Site Search   | Design Team   |  Contact Us Please see the  AVAILABLE BOAT PLANS web page What's the Ideal Sailing Rig...? Kasten Marine Design, Inc. Copyright 2001 - 2020 Michael Kasten   Rig Choice Cat, Sloop; Cutter; Ketch; Schooner... these are the basic configurations. How shall we choose among them? The type of rig is often a pre-ordained choice once one has determined vessel size, the preferred layout, and the maximum size of sail one can handle. While this may seem somewhat heretical at first, there is no arguing the fact that no one wants a mast in the middle of their double berth...! Therefore, if a double berth right forward is a priority, it is likely to rule out the schooner rig on a vessel under around 50 feet. For that layout, we would instead tend toward the ketch or cutter rig. On a fairly small vessel though, we might make excellent use of the Cat rig. How shall we choose? It is always a benefit to windward performance to limit the number of sails. A cutter will perform better for example than a ketch or a schooner due to there being less windage in the rig, in other words less drag, and less turbulence introduced per sail area by the masts. Since lift is important for windward sailing, one might then ask which sails provide the most lift...? The answer to this depends on the sail rig, and on the relative proportion of total sail area given to each sail. Since headsails can be varied, their relative contribution to overall lift can be varied as well. It also tends to be that area for area a headsail will provide more lift than a sail mounted on a mast, mainly due to the turbulence caused by the mast. However that can be mitigated by the use of dual-skinned sails that create a true foil with one sail on each side of the mast, as is done on the Ljungstrom rig. Why would we consider a split rig then? In nearly all cases this choice boils down to the simple question, "What is the maximum size sail you are comfortable handling?" In answering this question honestly, we nearly always discover that on all but the smallest of boats, for general cruising we will probably be better off with a split rig, such as a ketch or schooner. This will serve to limit the size of the main sail for easier sail handling, and still allow a generous overall sail area. It will also give us the benefit of having a rig that is less tall, so better able to be supported. Rather than having a preference for any one rig type, I believe this question will best be answered during the course of developing a design. The rig should naturally be suited to the specific purpose for which the vessel is being developed. The following is intended to shed some light on these questions...   Racing or Voyaging...? We know that lift is important when sailing to windward, across the wind on a reach, and possibly as far off as a broad reach, but not so much when sailing directly off the wind. The farther off the wind you sail from 90 degrees, the less important is lift, and the more important is drag. Of additional importance is a vessel's handling and steering behavior. These factors result in two extremes... and a middle path...   RACING For racing, it is important to maximize lift and mimimize drag so that windward efficiency is achieved. Given that racing yachts must maximize lift, the aspect ratio of their sails and their keels are designed to be at the maximum that the boat can carry. The more time the boat will spend sailing to windward, the more important its windward performance becomes. Since most races are won / lost on the windward leg, maximizing aspect ratio, and therefore maximizing the amount of lift to drag, that wins the race. However, with many such boats fairly severe handling problems can arise due to the fact that a higher aspect rig exerts a greater turning moment on the vessel as it fills with wind. In other words, the taller mast provides a longer lever with which to turn the boat to windward. The keel does the same, i.e. a deeper keel provides a longer lever with which to resist and augment the windward-turning force of the sails. This tends to make the boat relatively stable to windward, with both forces in balance, but makes the vessel very unwieldy and hard to manage down wind. Along with the enhanced windward performance provided by high aspect sails comes rather poor off-wind performance, therefore the use of big spinnakers on racing boats in order to make up for the poor efficiency of the high aspect sails off the wind. This comes at an additional price in terms of steering stability. Moreover, spinnakers themselves are not so easy to handle, nor so well behaved. Often the boat itself is not optimum for off-wind sailing. For example, the usual wide, shoal body, fat-transom racing type with a deep fin keel and spade rudder will always be unstable downwind, especially when flying a spinnaker, requiring constant attention at the helm.   VOYAGING By contrast, since any long distance sailing adventure will be specifically planned to take advantage of following winds, or at the very least to make use of favorable winds, if a vessel’s design is to be optimized for sailing with the wind, the aspect ratio should be reduced. In fact, the best sail rig for off-wind voyaging is the square rig, with an aspect ratio of one. In combination with the low aspect sail rig, the keel should also be low aspect, i.e. long, spread out, and not too deep. This is for the sake of steering stability; to match the aspect ratio of the sails; and so the boat is not so easily tripped by its keel and rolled over in a beam sea. Although this combination is perfect for running in the trade winds for weeks on end, it can hardly be recommended for sailing well to windward...   MODERATION Naturally, no modern sailing vessel ALWAYS sails off the wind even if it will be primarily used for voyaging. Neither extreme is appropriate, therefore a compromise is needed. If a boat is to be optimized for all-around sailing, including voyaging , it makes no sense whatever to provide the kind of high aspect rig optimized to win a round-the-buoys race. Nor does it make any sense to do the opposite, i.e. provide a square rig and long shoal keel. The best is somewhere in-between, i.e. with an aspect ratio for the sails on the order of that recommended below. In order to match the aspect ratio of the sail rig, the keel should also be something in-between, thus a cut-away forefoot and reduced wetted area, without becoming too deep, nor too long and shallow. This moderate configuration will provide good efficiency all around, the sails will be less tall and easier to handle, and the hull will be better able to provide the all-important course keeping ability desired for ocean crossings.   What About Windward Performance? To reiterate the above, if the keel is very long and shoal, and the rig is similarly low and spread out with gaffs and bowsprits and multiple masts ( say like a mid-1800's US coastal fishing schooner) then provided there is adequate sail area, performance will usually be excellent when reaching or running, but less than optimum to windward. At the opposite extreme (disregarding hull form for now) is a deep high-aspect fin keel, with a tall high-aspect Marconi sloop rig. This type of vessel will ordinarily perform very well to windward, but will be quite inferior on other points of sailing, requiring spinnakers and a sizable inventory of reaching and running sails. As noted above, these are two extremes. Given all that we have learned about windward sailing since the days of old, there is no reason to suffer poor windward performance on any vessel, nor poor off-wind performance necessitating a large sail inventory (read expense and hassle) often accompanied by poor down-wind handling. There is a wide middle ground...! Examples among my designs that have maximized voyaging ability, but still have reasonably good windward ability, are Redpath , and Zephyr , both excellent for voyaging. If one were to take the keel design on those vessels just a few notches farther toward reducing wetted surface, but still good for voyaging, you have a keel configuration like that on Jasmine , with separate keel and combination skeg / rudder. In each of these designs, a modern NACA foil keel and modest aspect rig has been provided for the sake of all around sailing both on and off the wind, and good steering stability. If one were to take this a few steps farther in the direction of windward performance, a configuration like that shown for my prototype design called Sonja makes good sense, in this case having a NACA foil bulb keel and a NACA foil spade rudder. It is worth mentioning that Sonja is not yet a completed design, and when finalized might have a slightly deeper keel, although possibly not. The reason to be equivocal on this point is because the bulb on the keel bottom acts as an “end-plate” effectively doubling the aspect ratio of the keel without having to make it deeper... If it is desired to not have a bowsprit, then in order to achieve adequate sail area the rig must simply become taller yet, and the keel deeper.   Quantifying Performance The type of rig one chooses will certainly have an effect on performance, as will the amount of sail area. For maximum performance, there is much benefit to be had with a good hull and keel design, and with well proportioned and well cut sails. We tend to observe many older vessel types which may have neither optimum hull design nor well proportioned sails, and then pass judgment on the type without considering those mitigating factors. Instead, we should look at the components of good cruising performance, and optimize the hull and sails to suit those highly specialized requirements. Aspect Ratio is defined as the height of the sail squared, divided by the area of the sail. A perfectly square sail would have an A/R of 1. A 450 sq. ft. triangular sail with an A/R of 6 would have a 52' luff and a 17' boom. They are both extremes. It is well known that higher aspect sails produce greater lift when close hauled. It not so widely known however that high aspect sails stall much more readily as the angle of attack widens. As A/R gets higher, sails get less and less efficient at pulling when anywhere but close hauled. For racing, where windward performance is of prime importance, it has been shown that an aspect ratio greater than 6 is of little use on monohull racing craft. An appropriate range for optimum windward sailing will be an A/R of from 4 to 6. A polar diagram showing lift vs. drag plotted for sails having the same area but differing aspect ratios very graphically shows that the favored lift / drag position is quickly handed off to shorter and shorter rigs as a sail is eased. If you would like see this data graphically presented, please have a look at the Aero-hydrodynamics of Sailing by Marchaj, p. 444, Fig. 2.138, also shown below... A study of this data shows that the most favorable aspect ratios for ocean cruising, where all-around performance is the goal, an aspect ratio from 2.5 to 3.5 is very appropriate , with an approximate upper limit of around A/R 4. Naturally, these are not "hard" boundaries, only guidelines. In most cases, a compromise is struck in consideration of the times inevitably spent sailing to windward and according to owner preference. In the data presented by Marchaj in the above graph, the angle of incidence of the sail is plotted against lift vs drag. A sail having an A/R of 6 performs exceedingly well at an angle of attack to the apparent wind of 10 degrees, where lift divided by drag (L/D) yields a ratio of around 8.5. At 10 degrees, a sail with A/R 3 has an L/D ratio of 6.5. At 15 degrees, the A/R 6 sail has an L/D ratio of 4.47, and the A/R 3 sail has an L/D ratio of 4.5. At 20 degrees, the A/R 6 sail has an L/D ratio of 2.7, while the A/R 3 sail has an L/D ratio of 3.3, and so forth. By the time an angle of attack of 30 degrees is reached, the favored position is handed off to a sail with an A/R of 1...! Note that A/R as used here refers to the A/R of each individual sail. If the A/R of each sail is, say 3, when adding the sails together the overall height of the rig would not increase, but the overall base dimension WOULD increase, therefore the A/R of the whole rig would be less. The optimum A/R discussed above - and as measured, discussed, and graphed by Marchaj as above - is that of each individual sail. The salient point is that extremely high aspect sails are not "bad" sails, they are just not optimum for general ocean cruising where it is rare to be sailing dead to windward. When required to do so, sails with an A/R of from 3 to 4 will perform quite well, in particular when eased off a few degrees. The benefits of lower aspect sails become much more evident when performing the engineering stunts required to keep an A/R 6 sail's mast from collapsing..! The simpler rigging made possible by lower aspect sails will be its own reward in terms of ease of construction, less rig stress, easier maintenance, and greater rig longevity.  Reduced maintenance and greater longevity... the holy grail for cruisers...!  Whether using a Bermuda rig, a "Marconi" rig, or a Gaff rig, the above factors encourage keeping aspect ratio of the individual sails under around 3.5 to 4 for an ocean cruising vessel. To see an example of this type of modest Bermuda rig, please check out my Fantom design - a perfect all-around cruising vessel. Rig choice is mainly a matter of assessing one's priorities. If those priorities tend toward racing, then the choices will be quite different than the choices made by a cruising sailor.   Keel Profile If the rig is tall and the keel deep, the lever arm will be relatively longer from the center of lateral resistance to the center of effort of the sails, therefore the amount of horizontal lead of the CE forward of the CLR must be proportionately greater to compensate. If on the other hand, the rig is kept fairly low, there will be less draft, and the ideal amount of lead will be much less, even though sail area and stiffness are not reduced. For the best steering and course keeping behavior, and for the greatest overall structural strength, a long full keel offers the most benefit to the long distance cruising sailor. This type of long and relatively shoal draft keel is ideally suited to the lower aspect sail rigs, say up to an aspect ratio of around 3.5. An example is my design Redpath , having relatively shoal draft and generous sail area, yet good sail carrying ability (stiffness). Other examples with similar A/R and keel configuration are Benrogin , Lucille 42 , Lucille 50 , Grace , Zephyr , and Shiraz designs. For the ketch Shiraz , the rig height was limited to 60' off the water for convenience while traveling the ICW along the East Coast, and the draft was limited to 5' - 6" for sailing in the Bahamas. Since Shiraz is an aluminum vessel, there is actually greater sail carrying ability than necessary, so we have the option to give her more sail area, or we may on the other hand choose to keep the rig as-is and assume there will be an extra margin of safety when flying a mule or a spinnaker. Taking the Shiraz a bit further in the direction of windward performance, we might increase the aspect ratio of the mains'l and mizzen, and deepen the keel. At that point, it might be desirable to consider splitting the keel into a deeper portion to contain the ballast, then a shallow portion to contain the shaft alley, then another deeper portion to act as a skeg for the rudder. This would allow a very efficient foil shaped "cruising fin" type of keel, and a similarly efficient combination skeg / rudder combination, while also limiting wetted surface. When the aspect ratio of the sails becomes greater than around 3.5, this kind of long "cruising fin" and skeg hung rudder will usually be preferred. Primarily this choice will be made in order to deepen the keel (and the ballast) but to avoid extra wetted surface. For quick maneuvering, this kind of keel will always be a bit more responsive. The "cruising fin" keel, having a higher aspect ratio and therefore greater lift vs. drag, will naturally have better windward performance than a long and relatively shoal full keel. If not carried to extremes, this will not materially degrade course keeping ability nor the strength of the keel and rudder. Of course when the rig becomes very tall, the keel will become still deeper. Windward performance will be improved, but performance on other points of sail will be degraded, as will course keeping ability. Taken to its logical extreme with deep fin keel and spade rudder, when running in a sea of any size attention to the helm will be critical. This is especially so with fast high aspect sea-going sleds having very fine entries and broad flat sections aft, where lack of attention to the helm may result in an instant broach. While there is no question that this is exhilarating sailing, it can hardly be recommended for safe family cruising... For long passages with the helm unattended, a long and relatively shoal full keel will always be more steady than any other type. For long distance cruising, a longer keel will "track" somewhat more like it is on rails. In harbor, maneuvering turns will have a larger radius. The tactic in that situation is to use a bit of reverse gear to take headway off the boat, then give it a burst in forward gear with the helm over, then another burst in reverse, etc. With that, any full keel boat can be pivoted in her own length. Rather than there being any right or wrong choice, the type of keel profile is a matter of preference, usually based on the type of sailing that is planned. During the design process, once the preferred keel configuration and rig type are chosen, it is simply a matter of balancing them against each other in order to obtain the required lead for the sail area vs the lateral area, and to place the ballast where required for proper trim. Regardless of whether a design is given a long full keel or a "cruising fin" keel, it will benefit performance both on and off the wind to make use of an efficient NACA foil shape. The particular choice of foil type will depend on the keel profile in order to maximize lift, and minimize drag.   What About Winged Keels...? Should the cruising sailor consider a winged keel...? An excellent question. The wing keel concept is not brand new. It has come to us as an evolution of various approaches from the past. For long full-keel applications, the idea was promoted by Henry Scheel from the 1960's onward. It became known as the " Scheel Keel " which has the form of a modified "bulb" along the base of the keel. The particular configuration is to widen the base of the keel via a broadly curved keel bottom (athwartships), with a concave return to the body of the keel above. This creates both a large envelope for the ballast down low, without having to increase draft, and also provides an "end plate" to reduce the induced drag from eddy making at the base of the keel foil, effectively increasing the A/R of the keel without having to make it deeper... Among racers, this concept is transformed into a blade with a distinct "bulb" at the base containing the ballast. This serves the same function as the Scheel type of arrangement, i.e. to lower the ballast and to reduce eddy making at the tip of the keel. A few bulb keel examples can be seen on the 96' schooner Zebulun and the 50' ketch Sonja . The further evolution of the simple bulb is a "bulb with wings." Quite a few combinations have been developed, including several that are aimed more at the cruiser / racer types. In moulded fiberglass or cast lead, nearly any shape can be achieved. In metal construction however, one of the basic challenges in order to keep building costs within bounds is to make use of shapes that are both easily fabricated, and that are also efficient in use. For a cruising boat, an additional priority is to create a structure that is sufficiently robust to withstand serious abuse. In metal construction, for the greatest economy of labor during fabrication (i.e. the most bang for the buck) the most reasonable approach is to make use of simple and distinct shapes, rather than "blended" surfaces as would be more typical with fiberglass construction. For metal construction therefore, if a bulb is planned, it will ideally be a distinctly formed shape, attached to another distinctly formed shape, the keel foil. If wings are provided on the ballast bulb, they will also ideally be distinct "appendages" having a long low aspect shape. If a Scheel type of keel bottom is planned, then for ease of construction it will ideally make use of large diameter heavy wall tubing for the bottom shape, and sections of similar tubing for the concave "return" to the keel foil. The cruising sailor empirically observes, " What sticks out, breaks off ." To address that observation, appendages to the hull are approached with an extreme conservatism... With a winged keel, we have added an appendage to an appendage...! I believe an approach such as that taken by Scheel, or possibly a bulb or modest bulb / wing arrangement, will have the greatest merit for the long distance cruiser. The primary requirement is that the boat be able to take the ground and heel right over on the hard without any chance of structural damage, for which the plain keel, the Scheel arrangement or the bulb keel are ideally suited.   Is the Gaff Rig Suited to Modern Cruising...? If windward sailing is of paramount importance then of course the Bermuda rig has much to recommend it. For modern day cruising the gaff rig is often maligned. In my view, for blue water voyaging the gaff rig has much to offer. If a vessel's keel is shaped efficiently and if the sails are cut for maximum efficiency on the wind and if the sail plan has been designed well, a gaff rigged boat will perform incredibly well, in many cases besting the performance of a high aspect ratio Marconi rigged boat. This is especially so if one is sailing on any course other than a hard beat to windward. A gaff rig provides the chance to set more sail area on a given length of mast. For a given sail area the mast can be quite a bit shorter, so the mast will be that much stronger and will require less complex rigging to keep it in place. The stiffness of a column is inversely proportional to the square of its length. A mast that is twice as long will fail with only one fourth the load, therefore must be four times stronger. One strategy is to use a heavier mast section. The more typical approach is to divide the mast into several "panels" by the use of spreaders. This is the "Marconi" rig. It introduces more stress, more places for failure, more cost, more maintenance, etc. For racing, this is of course justified. For general cruising however, we can make a good case for keeping things simple and strong. If set up simply, a traditional rig will be friendly and easy to use. For example, one will be handling soft lines rather than harsh stainless wire and winches. If the sails are laced, we will have eliminated sail track and other hardware, along with its relatively much greater expense. This is not to say that one should be old fashioned... far from it! For example, nearly all the masts I specify are welded aluminum tube or pipe. These are perfect for the gaff rig as well as for the low aspect Bermuda rig. Compared strictly on a strength to weight to cost basis, aluminum pipe spars are impossible to improve upon. As further example, among the gaff rigs that I have drawn, one will observe that I prefer short gaffs without tops'ls. Primarily, this is for reasons of simplicity, efficiency, and ease of use. The penalty in excess rigging required for gaff tops'ls is more than I'm usually willing to fool with while sailing. In my experience, due to that added complexity, gaff tops'ls often just sit in their bags unused. In exchange for the added complexity of rigging, gaff tops'ls ordinarily provide little gain in terms of usable sail area.   Notes on the Short-Gaff Rig My short-gaff sail plans are meant to address the shortcomings of the traditional types of gaff rig sail plan when used on smaller craft (say under around 60 feet). By using a short gaff with no tops'l, there is more luff length to the sail. With a longer luff on the lowers, the lower sails are able to perform much better when on the wind. As an added bonus, sails are not broken into such small units, so are able to be more efficient on all points of sail. As a further bonus, the short gaff arrangement permits a single halyard to be used with a fixed bridle (not a sliding bridle). With a short gaff there is no need for a separate throat halyard. The bridle legs are balanced during sailing trials, then permanently made fast at the best spot. Luff tension is thereafter adjusted at the gooseneck. As a bonus, the fixed bridle always keeps the gaff in the same attitude while raising and lowering. This works so well that all of the gaff rigs that I’ve specified for yachts under 60 feet on deck have a single halyard for the gaff. While it is possible to do this with a longer gaff, it works best with a short gaff. Certainly larger vessels can use the short gaff and single halyard, provided sails are not too large. As sails become too large to man-handle, a winch can be used for raising sail. Even on much larger sails the short gaff offers the benefit of greatly reduced weight aloft, and an easier job of raising sail. The short gaff - long luff sail is not my invention by any means... In fact, in its ideal form the short-gaff-sail is fairly close in profile to the shape of the fully battened elliptical plan form racing sails of today. The short-gaff rig was developed and was well proven on vessels such as the Dutch sloops, Bermuda sloops, and of course the pilot schooners that sailed out of Baltimore during the 1800's and early 1900's. The pilot schooners needed a foolproof rig that had superior performance, and that could be handled by a man and a boy. They were large vessels...! Applying the same strategy to smaller sailing vessels one can easily single hand a 50 footer. As far as their sailing properties, the improvement in windward performance is well documented among those vessels, and by my own experience having sailed with this arrangement on my own schooner Emerald . The benefits are to simplify the rig, to reduce windage, to reduce the work of raising and lowering sail, to increase luff length for better windward sailing, to reduce weight aloft, and to eliminate those pesky tops’ls. That said, on a schooner I do like to use a fisherman tops’l beetween the masts since it provides enough area to be worthwhile and is easy to set and strike. By comparison, gaff tops’ls are often more trouble than they are worth - another point strongly favoring the "bald headed" gaff rig.   What About the Schooner Rig? The schooner is able to spread more sail per length of spars than any other rig. This allows a generous sail area, while the center of effort is kept low down. On a schooner of any size I like to arrange for both main and fore sails to be similarly sized. This is done to prevent the mains'l from becoming too big to handle. To determine the size of each sail, one should try to make use of sails as large as can be confidently handled, and no larger. Much of what is written about schooners and gaff rigs assumes that one will be using a traditional sail plan with long gaffs, two halyards for each gaff, main and fore tops'ls, fisherman tops'l, stays'l, jib, jib tops'l, etc. Added together even on a small schooner, that represents some twenty halyards and other control lines. As an example of how one might simplify that configuration, Lucille and her sisters, Redpath and Benrogin have only four halyards for the lowers, and two for the fisherman tops'l. The total: six halyards... ! Simple is beautiful...   Redpath as Example We had the opportunity to sail two 34' schooners having exactly the same hull form and sail area against each other. One vessel had a "traditional" gaff schooner rig, with long gaffs, gaff tops'ls, stays'l and flying jib. The other vessel had a short-gaff rig of my design with exactly the same sail area. One feature of the rig I tend to prefer (as with designs like Redpath) is that the working sails are sized to be as nearly alike in area as possible, so there is no single dominant sail. All of these improvements served to simplify and lighten the rig and provided far less windage. The result...? Although both vessels performed more or less equally on a down wind course, we out sailed the "traditional" rig hands down both reaching and beating. With the short-gaff rig as I modified it, as compared the other vessel of the same hull design (but having a traditional long-gaff rig and gaff tops'ls) we could better their windward performance by around 5 degrees. What I had done is to eliminate the tops'ls and raise the throat of the gaffs up farther, like on Redpath and Lucille. The combination of better windward performance with a simpler, but still classic rig... it is a big success! Another bonus is that the simper short-gaff rig was far easier to build, to handle and to maintain. I liked it so much that I made an identical rig for my own schooner, Emerald . I attribute the improved windward performance to the following factors: Fewer sails, therefore more lift per amount of drag (reach, run or close hauled). Longer luff length on fore and main. Less running rigging and clutter (less than half the number of halyards) so considerably less windage. Flatter cut to the sails in order to maximize windward sailing. Hollow cut to the jib luff to allow for wire sag, so the sail still has good foil shape to windward. Redpath was yet another refinement of the concept, having been designed to take best advantage of the optimum rig right from the beginning. A further refinement on Redpath has been the use of a NACA foil keel. The combination of the improved keel with the taller and more efficient short-gaff rig will provide some 7 to 10 degrees closer sailing tack to tack (the "real" measure of performance) than does a more traditional schooner type having tops'ls, multiple jibs, a nest of extra halyards, and a long straight shoal draft keel. The improvement to windward has been accomplished without sacrificing reaching or running performance, and at the same time whilst improving the vessel's tracking ability on all courses. Redpath is relatively light in terms of displacement to length, and has a high sail area to displacement ratio in her working sails. This not only makes the boat fast, but also makes the rig ultimately easier to deal with, since there are no light weather spinnakers and so forth to fool with. For light weather sailing, the Fisherman Tops'l is kept very well controlled between the two masts, having a line at each corner. If one could say there is any single factor responsible for providing excellent performance on Redpath, it would have to be attributed to the amount of sail area provided. The sail area given to Redpath is able to be generous because it is located relatively low down, rather than on one single tall stick. A Marconi type of rig will ordinarily require a deeper keel for adequate sail carrying ability. One cannot make reasonable comparisons of course to vessels having a fin keel, spade or skeg hung rudder, and sloop rig, as those types will always have superior windward performance. What those keel and rig types give up in terms of off-wind sailing is considerable... Steering stability off-wind is compromised, as is safety in taking the ground, as is the ability to heave to gracefully, etc. The main thing is simply to define the type of sailing one wishes to do. If it is "round the buoy" racing, then shoal draft and low aspect rigs will not be competitive and thus they will be very unsuitable. Nor are they intended to be suited to that type of sailing... It is the windward leg after all that inevitably wins a round the buoys race. For offshore voyaging, relatively more shoal draft and lower aspect rigs will ordinarily make the most sense. Redpath, for example, is designed for fast sailing. On any course from a close reach to a dead run, using only her working sail (not allowing the Fisherman, spinnakers, or any other light weather sails), Redpath simply will walk away from the majority of equally sized Marconi rigged boats. For offshore voyaging one would be hard pressed to do better... Particularly if ruggedness, ease of handling, economy and ease of maintenance are of any import.   The Schooner Lucille Image, Copyright 1999   Other Useful Cruising Sails For Schooners: The Fisherman Tops'l On a schooner, the fisherman tops'l is an excellent tool, is easy to use, and provides plenty of area, so is well worth it. The fisherman tops'l is a thing of beauty and highly functional, without a lot of complicated rigging. It's like having overdrive... It's up where it can catch the breeze and it has a meaningful size, so that the reward for setting the fisherman is substantial. Of course, a Fisherman tops'l is not absolutely required, but it is almost silly to do without one on a schooner, given the outstanding opportunity between the masts to spread a large amount of sail without much fuss or bother.   For all Sailing Vessels: The Stays'l or "Mule" One might be tempted toward even greater simplicity, eliminating the staysail and outer jib in favor of a single jumbo jib. We can quickly see however that a staysail and jib combination are a bit better suited to offshore sailing, as follows: The most obvious advantage of the stays'l, whether it is on a schooner, ketch or cutter, is to make the individual headsails smaller and easier to handle. A much less apparent advantage is that the stays'l also provides for easy self-steering. A "steering sheet" led from the stays'l boom, aft along the windward side, and then to a tiller will give reliable and easy self steering. It's hard to believe, but this really does work...!! The gaff rig being somewhat lower aspect, lends good self steering to the boat particularly when sailing long passages off the wind. Naturally this statement must be qualified by presuming that the rig is of good design, and that a good hull form for self steering has been provided. You can see example vessels of this type by clicking on the links to the schooners, Lucille and Redpath , and the very fine ketches Grace and Shiraz .   For Nearly any Hull Type: The Junk Rig... Along with the Gaff Rig, the Chinese Junk Rig has much to offer in terms of simplicity, ease of use, and also in terms of safety, in particular for the long range voyager. For more information, please have a look at my web page on the Chinese Junk Rig .   Choices... Overall, subtleties abound in copious amplitude...! One cannot say one thing absolutely... there exist many shades of grey. A given boat design is neither good nor bad, but instead simply optimized for a given purpose. This includes the full spectrum from the all-out racing machine, to the square rigged clipper. These choices are just a matter of degree; of one's intended sailing; and ultimately of one's preference. One type is not inherently "wrong" or the other inherently "right" but instead are just differing expressions of one's preferred style. Therefore... there really is no argument with regard to keel and rig choices. In the end, the these various design factors are simply a matter of the owner's preferences being expressed in the type of vessel being created. In other words, once you know what you want to do with a boat, i.e. its function , only then do you have a framework within which to create and / or judge its form .   Image Copyright 1999   Other Resources... For further reading on self steering, please see the excellent book, "Self Steering for Sailing Craft, " by Dr. John Letcher. For further reading on the gaff rig, please have a look at " Hand, Reef and Steer ," by Tom Cunliffe.   Please see the  AVAILABLE BOAT PLANS web page. 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Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media Media New media New comments Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe Marconi vs Bahama sloop? Thread starter Jim Cook Start date Jun 29, 2002 Forums for All Owners Ask All Sailors I've seen both terms, almost always used together, but I don't know what the difference is between them.Please enlighten me.Thanks,Jim Cook"Dream Chaser", O'Day 27   Sailing Rig Type vs. A Type Of Sailboat... The term "Marconi" is used to describe a three sided mainsail on a sailboat, almost all modern sailboats uses a Marconi rig. It is a fore and aft rig sailboat with a tall triangular mainsail and a sharply raked mast. A "Marconi" rig uses just two spars (mast and boom), whereas a traditional "Gaff" rigged sail has four sides and uses three spars(mast, boom and gaff).A "Bahama Sloop" is a general style of sailboat that is based on a traditional Bahama working sloop, the type of craft used for fishing and inter-island transport by generations of islanders before the development of engine powered ships. I thought that the "Bahama Sloop" used a "Gaff" rigged mainsail instead of a "Marconi" rig. It also had a "Jib" set on a bowsprit. The "Bahama Sloop" is similar to an "New England" centerboard Cat boat which was popular around the turn of the century for fishing and oystering in shallow coastal waters. The classic Cape Cod Cat was a "Gaff" rigged sailboat with a beam measurement that was half the waterline length, which made the New England Cat boat a very stable boat. A "Bahama Sloop" also has a wide beam, but not has wide as "New England" Cat boat and it also has jib set on a bowsprit.I've haven't heard about or seen a "Marconi" rigged "Bahama Sloop", is it new?Fair WindsClyde   Bermuda Sloop??? After looking at your question again, I think you meant to ask what is a "Marconi" vs. "Bermuda Sloop". A modern sailboat is sometimes called a "Bermuda Sloop" or "Bermuda Rigged" sailboat. A Bermuda sloop is a sailboat that is rigged fore and aft with a "Marconi" mainsail and jib.Since a "Berumda" type sloop always has a "Marconi" sail, I guess that's why they are often used together.Fair WindsClyde   Wanderer138 Marconi rig vs Bahama Sloop I'm no expert, but I always thought the Bermuda rig was a sloop with a high-aspect ratio triangular main and possibly loose-footed jib, as opposed to a shorter, gaff-rigged main and self-tacking jib on a jibboom. Gaff mains are characteristic of small traditional working sail. The Bermuda rig was more efficient working upwind and may have been what they needed in Bermuda. I guess when you live on a small island you have to sail upwind at least half the time.I thought the term "Marconi rig" was coined when tall metal masts supported by a network of spreaders, stays and shrouds were developed. This rig resembles a radio transmitter antenna (invented by Marconi) supported by guy wires.Bahamas sloops have triangular mainsails. However, because of their shape and size, the headboards on bigger sloops (raced in The Bahamas today as Class A sloops) almost look like gaffs. Bahamas sloops have long booms, large mainsails and a small jib.PeterH23 "Raven"   This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more… Ketch Schooner Yawl Cutter Dipping / lugsail The modem Dutch boeier (below) has changed little from the designs which could be seen in the Netherlands in the 17th century.The gaff mainsail, from which the rig derives its name, is four-sided and set from a movable spar, or gaff, as it is known. Dutch boeier Marconi rig The Marconi mainsail, from which the rig derives its name, superseded the gaff rig in the early years of the 20th century. It is a triangular sail set on a tall mast. Cutter (J class) Staysail schooner Staysail schooners have sails set forward on stays. A mainsail is sometimes set on the main mast (below). Three-masted staysail schooner still true today. The Arabian dhows, a typical example, were probably once the fastest small trading vessels in the world, and are still used. In the West, different waters, cargoes and financial considerations necessitated different designs. Economic factors, for instance, demanded that crews were limited: the rig of a Thames barge, a boat which is bigger than most dhows, was designed to be handled by a crew of only two. Long journeys across oceans were most easily conducted in large vessels and the vast amount of canvas which was required to drive them had to be broken down into manageable units. Some of the enormous cargo vessels, which were built at the turn of the century, carried as many as seven masts. The variety of rigs which evolved in Europe and North America to meet all the different needs were numerous. Rig variations Square- rigged ships , particularly suited to sailing downwind, traversed the oceans by exploiting the steady trade winds. In European and other coastal waters, where winds are more variable, square sails were combined with fore-and-aft rigs. These latter rigs, which set the sails lengthways along the boat, were more suited to windward sailing. Barques and barquentines, brigs and brigantines, snows, schooners, ketches and yawls plied the coastlines. Each exploited its special advantages, whether of speed, ease of handling, cargo-carrying capacity, or of maneuverability in narrow channels. In other parts of the world, different solutions were found. The Chinese lugsail, for example (popularly known in the West as the "junk" rig) is efficient both when sailing to windward and when sailing free, and can be easily reefed and managed by a small crew. Because the sail is made up in sections and stiffened by bamboos, it is also easily and cheaply repaired. Although this simple but efficient rig was never adopted on working boats in other parts of the world, designers have begun recently to recognize its advantages and the junk rig is being adapted for use on some modern boats. In most parts of the world, the old work boats are no longer employed. The big square-riggers, as well as the smaller coastal vessels, were largely usurped by steam-powered craft in the early years of this century. Those which survived, the cutter, ketch, yawl and schooner, did so because their size and rig made them particularly suitable for recreational sailing. Many early cruising boats were old converted pilot cutters or fishing smacks and most present day yachts with their fore-and-aft rigs are adaptations of those types. All fore-and-aft rigs consist of a main mast with a headsail set in front of it and a mainsail set behind. Each rig varies a little from the others. The cutter, for example, has one mast with two or more headsails and a gaff or Marconi mainsail. The sloop rig (now probably the most popular in the Western world) has a single headsail and a mainsail. Ketches and yawls carry an additional mast, known as a mizzen mast, stepped in the after part of the boat. In a ketch, the mizzen is stepped forward of the rudder post and on a yawl it is stepped behind it. Right, the 1991 Admiral's Cup fleet at the start of one of its inshore races. Inset, top, a gaff ketch, with all its sails set, reaches in a light breeze. Inset, middle, a staysail schooner with a gaff mainsail, sets an array of staysails and headsails. Inset, bottom, a modem cruising boat, rigged as a junk schooner. Continue reading here: Hinged Mast Step Was this article helpful? Recommended Programs Myboatplans 518 Boat Plans Related Posts Dictionary of Boating Sailing, Schooners, Naval, Ships, Boat and Seafaring Terms Design by William Garden Commentary by Joel White The Last Days of Sail - Science of Sailing Flatbottomed beachable cat ketch with poptop Sailing Ships A - Naval History Readers' Questions What is a ketch sailboat? A ketch sailboat is a type of sailing vessel characterized by having two masts. The larger mast, called the mainmast, is located closer to the center of the boat, while the smaller mast, known as the mizzenmast, is positioned towards the rear. The mizzenmast is usually set behind the rudder, which distinguishes a ketch from a yawl. Ketches typically have two or more foresails, with the mainsail attached to the mainmast and the mizzen sail attached to the mizzenmast. Ketches are popular among sailors for their versatility, as they offer a wide range of sail combinations and balance, making them relatively easy to handle. Do staysail schooners not sail well? Yes, staysail schooners can sail very well. They are a type of sailboat characterized by having two or more masts, with the foremost mast being the shortest, and a large jib or staysail set between the masts. Staysail schooners are very maneuverable and make excellent cruising vessels due to their good balance and stable hull shape. How to sail a gaff rig boat? Prepare the boat to set sail: Before attempting to sail, make sure all the rigging is in place and that the sails are lowered and the boat is securely moored. Raise the mainsail: Hoist the mainsail up the mast, leading the halyard over the gaff and securing it to the mast. Adjust the sails: Adjust the mainsail to the desired trim using the outhaul, topping lift and other controls. Also adjust the jib or mizzen as required to balance the sail plan. Collect the lines: Make sure all the lines are collected neatly, in order to avoid any tangles or snags. Release the boat: Release the mooring lines, cleating them off to the side. Start sailing: Begin sailing by heading the boat into the wind and allowing the sails to fill with air. Make sure to adjust the sails as necessary to get the best possible performance. Tack and gybe: Use the tiller to adjust the boat's course as needed, to tack or gybe. As you reach the new heading, sheet in the main and jib to balance the sail plan. Manage the gaff: When tacking and gybing in a gaff-rigged boat, the gaff must be handled carefully. Make sure it is properly secured and its position monitored to ensure it doesn't slam against the mast or interfere with the sail plan. During maneuvers, the gaff may need to be released and moved to the opposite side of the boat. Can a yawl be steam powered? No, yawls are traditionally sail-powered vessels. Can a ketch be converted to a sloop easily? Yes, a ketch can be converted to a sloop relatively easily. The main difference between a ketch and a sloop is the mast arrangement, so a ketch can be converted to a sloop by replacing the two masts with a single mast. This will require some rigging work, but it is possible to do without too much difficulty. Can a yawl be converted to a schooner? Yes, a yawl can be converted to a schooner by removing its mizzenmast and substituting the smaller schooner foremast, as well as adding a bowsprit. This conversion will require the assistance of a boat builder or professional rigger. MarketPlace Digital Archives Order A Copy Voyager explains junk rig choice My decision to buy a Chinese junk-rigged schooner was shaped by several factors. Foremost was the certainty that I would be voyaging and not racing. The second important consideration was the rig’s simplicity. Made up mostly of lines and knots, this feature guaranteed less maintenance time and far less maintenance and replacement costs. There would be no expensive stainless fittings, winches, or high-tech sail materials. The third consideration was ease of handling. I knew that I would probably sail by myself or with inexperienced crews. Therefore, I wanted a boat I could handle safely and comfortably from the cockpit with a minimum of sail handling on the foredeck. Last, I was won over by the design and voyaging exploits of several well-known sailors who experimented with modern interpretations of this almost 2,000-year-old rig. Back in the 1970s, Thomas Colvin designed and built several junk-rigged boats in Chesapeake Bay. One of his most popular designs, an aluminum schooner called Gazelle, can still be found occasionally in classified sailing magazine advertisements. He extolled the unique charm of the Chinese junk rig in a book called Cruising as a Way of Life. Englishmen Blondie Hassler and Michael Richey made history by sailing the junk-rigged folkboat, Jester, in 13 successive Atlantic singlehanded races. It was the first singlehanded Atlantic race in 1960 that pitted Chichester against Hassler and his junk-rigged sloop. Chi-chester’s Gypsy Moth won that race, but Jester, captained by Michael Richey, subsequently established a record for the most race attempts. The fact that the boat and rig held up in this most inhospitable North Atlantic Ocean race is a testament to the boat and sail designs. In 1988 Hassler teamed up with Jock McLeod to write a definitive book on the junk-rig called Practical Junk Rig. A dedicated group of British sailors has adapted this ancient sail plan for modern Western craft. They also formed the Junk Rig Association to further the study and exchange of ideas toward improving the rig. One of my all-time favorite sailor-authors is Bernard Moitessier. This Frenchman was born in Vietnam and acquired much of his early sailing experience in traditional junks. Although he changed to a more modern Bermuda-rigged boat for his many sailing exploits, he wrote nostalgically about those early sailing days in junks. Almost everyone’s first sailing hero is Joshua Slocum. His greatest exploit is being the first singlehander to make it around the world in 1895 and write about it in a book called Sailing Alone around the World. He accomplished this awesome feat in a boat called Spray, a traditional gaff-rigged schooner. However, later in life he built the junk-rigged Liberdade for a trip from South America back to the U.S. This adventure is described in his book The Voyage of the Liberdade. The writings of these famous sailors made a deep impression on my choice of boat. Admittedly, I was also drawn to the uniqueness of the sail design. I wanted to be different and not have a boat that looked like every other boat in the harbor. I finally settled on a 32-foot Sunbird schooner made in England. It has a traditional Western, fiberglass hull and a pair of tan-bark, Chinese junk sails. Almost everyone who stops to stare at my rig admires the unusual design but quickly turns the discussion to her poor light-air windward performance. I don’t disagree with this assessment, although I get a little frustrated and defensive having to explain that there is much more to voyaging than going to windward. I feel that the positive qualities of the rig far outweigh this concern. Over years of coastal cruising I have learned to live with the fact that anywhere from 20% to 40% of passage time is spent under engine power or motorsailing. On my two transatlantic crossings, the engine was used more sparingly, and the sailing was slow but kindly. Even after an unfortunate dismasting of the foresail in mid-ocean, 1,500 miles from the Canaries, the remaining sail provided a safe, albeit slower, passage to the Bahamas. In his wonderfully illustrated book, Ships of China, Valentin Sokoloff writes, "A hand-crafted sailing ship is a living thing with its own character and charm. A Chinese junk is even more so, and no wonder, as it was invented by an offspring of a nymph and a rainbow. His name was Fu Hsi, the first great ruler, who, they say, was born in 2852 B.C. Then Lu Pan, founder of the art of carpentry, greatly improved the original design. Further generations of Chinese shipwrights gave junks their final seaworthy and practical shape." The evolution of sailboat design in the West has taken place over a much shorter period of time and a much different tack than in China. Today the epitome of Western boat design is represented by America’s Cup contenders and similar high-tech racing boats. Variations of the Bermuda rig (also known as Marconi rig, for the inventor’s tall radio transmitting tower) is seen on virtually every racing and voyaging boat to come off the showroom floor. For the most part, the emphasis in these designs is speed and, particularly, performance to windward. But there are obviously other aspects of sailing, especially voyaging; that is where the Chinese rig comes into its own. The distinct advantage of the Chinese balanced-lug rig is in shorthanded, comfortable voyaging. Modern junk rigs have married the ancient designs with new materials, replacing bamboo and grass mats with fiberglass and Dacron. The resulting modern rig can be easily handled with less strength and endurance and without leaving the safety of the cockpit. Sailing with this rig can be relaxed, enjoyable, and safe without the high working loads of more popular triangular sails with their taut sheets and strenuous winching. The junk rig is easily reefed in strong winds and easily balanced for self-steering vanes and for lower loads on the tiller or wheel. At first sight the rig’s unusual appearance is confusing to Western eyes. However, it is extraordinarily simple, clever, and easy to handle. The balanced-lug sails have full-length fiberglass battens that are laced across the width of the sail from luff to leech, as shown in the accompanying illustration. Each of the battens divides the sail into separate panels. The top batten is the yard, a heavier batten than the others because it carries the full weight of the sail. The bottom batten is the boom. It carries very little load and, therefore, needs to be no larger than the other battens. The head of the sail is laced to the yard, which is hauled up by the halyard. The halyard is a multi-part block system to reduce the effort of hauling the sail. No winches are needed with this system, and the halyard can be hauled from the cockpit. The sail is held against the mast by a series of batten parrels. The sail always lies on one side of the mast and extends a short distance forward of the mast. This is what makes it a balanced lug rig, similar to a balanced rudder with a small area in front of the rudder stock. On one tack the sail lies directly on the mast. On the other tack it is constrained by the batten parrels. Multiple topping lifts, or lazy jacks, are tied off at the boom and create a cradle for the sail when reefed or completely lowered. Two additional parrel lines are led back to the cockpit to control the fore and aft position of the sail. The yard parrel is used to hold the yard snugly to the mast. This is most important when the sail is reefed and would have a tendency to swing aft of the mast. The yard parrel brings the sail forward. Similarly, the luff parrel is used to prevent the sail from going too far forward and maintains moderate tension on the luff of the sail. Between these two parrel lines, the sail is kept in correct position, especially when reefed. Simply lowering the halyard any distance reefs the sail. The more the halyard is lowered, the more panels are reefed. It acts like venetian blinds that are easily raised or lowered. As the panels are reefed, they and their battens lie in the cradle formed by the lazy jack system. The weight of the lowered battens prevents the sails from billowing out between the lazy jacks. The sails are automatically held in check no matter how many battens are lowered. This makes it unnecessary to tie reefing points or bundle the sail with sail ties. As soon as the halyard is slackened, the sheets become loose, and the sail begins to spill wind. However, unlike other sails, it will not flog and damage itself if the sheet is loosened. The full-length battens make the rig much quieter without the loud banging associated with flogging sails. In light, downwind sailing, the battens also prevent the sails from collapsing periodically, thereby reducing sail wear and noise. A single sheet system controls the boom and all the other battens through a series of spans (sheetlets). This provides control over the entire leech of the sail, unlike a Bermuda rig where sheet control is only over the boom or clew of the sail. Therefore, the load on the tail end of the multi-part sheet is light and easily handled without a winch. The portion of the balanced-lug sail forward of the mast performs an important function, contributing to the safety and comfort of the crew. When wind and boat direction conspire to create an accidental gybe, the small portion of sail before the mast counters the wind’s effect on the remaining sail area and dampens the motion of the sail. This slows the otherwise violent tendency of the sail to flip to the other side of the boat. Both intentional and accidental gybing become much less hair-raising. The free-standing masts of a junk-rigged boat are typically designed to be somewhat flexible. They bend when winds get too strong, and spill the wind in the process. This bending reduces the heeling of the boat and acts as an automatic shock absorber in sudden gusts that would otherwise severely heel a conventional stayed-mast boat. The Chinese junk-rigged boat is not for everyone. For most people, the Bermuda rig, with its conventional triangular sails, is more popular, either for the look or the windward performance. However, for those seeking a more effortless sailing experience with a unique traditional rig, the junk sail plan is an interesting alternative. n Michael L. Frankel is a freelance writer who lives in Orange Park, Fla., when he isn’t voyaging aboard his 32-foot Chinese junk-rigged Sunbird, Sabra. By Ocean Navigator 485 IMAGES Scarano 22 2012 Custom Catboat With Marconi Rig Sail Boat For Sale Close-up of an all-wood sailboat, Marconi rig, GORGEOUS bright work 2012 Custom Catboat With Marconi Rig Sail Boat For Sale Two Boats in One 1985 Sutton Schooner Marconi Rig Sail Boat For Sale VIDEO IRINA VII = ALFRED MYLNE/ WILLIAM FIFE & SON 54 FT CUTTER 1935 Island Packet 31 Walk Thru Simple to tie OMC Spinner Rig proa Penobscot 14 St. Jacques Sail Sea Trials 18 Jul 17 NUBA II COMMENTS Bermuda rig Bermuda rig. J-Class sail plan with Bermuda Rig c. 1930. A Bermuda rig, Bermudian rig, or Marconi rig is a configuration of mast and rigging for a type of sailboat and is the typical configuration for most modern sailboats. This configuration was developed in Bermuda in the 17th century; the term Marconi, a reference to the inventor of the ... What is a Marconi Rig A 'marconi rig is a stiffly stayed Bermudan rig. Once the airplane was invented, it became known that higher Aspect Ratio (span squared/Area) produced more lift than short low aspect ratio ones. This new information was quickly adopted by the sail boat racing community. Why is the Bermudian rig also called the Marconi rig? Modern recreational sailboats are generally equipped with a Bermuda rig, with a triangular mainsail and one or two headsails. This configuration is also often referred to as the Marconi rig, but why is the Italian's name associated with it? The Bermuda Rig: A Classic Sailboat Design Short answer: Bermuda rig The Bermuda rig, also known as the Marconi rig, is a type of sailing rig commonly used on modern sailboats. It features a triangular mainsail with one or more headsails. Its efficient design allows for good maneuverability and performance in various wind conditions. 1) Exploring the History and Function of the. On this Day (December 12) The evolution of the Marconi rig, unabated in invention, descendant of patent disputes, and improper adjectivization Guglielmo Marconi was born at Bologna, Italy, on April 25, 1874, the second son of Giuseppe Marconi, an Italian country gentleman, and Annie Jameson, daughter of Andrew Jameson of Daphne Castle in the County Wexford, Ireland. Sail Rigs And Types Bermuda Rig - Also known as a Marconi rig, this is the typical configuration of most modern sailboats. It has been used since the 17th century and remains one of the most efficient types of rigs. The rig revolves around setting a triangular sail aft of the mast with the head raised to the top of the mast. Sail boat rigs: the pros and cons of each popular design Marconi's invention of wire rigging to hold up tall radio masts soon spread to sailboats. Performance-oriented designers borrowed Marconi's idea and hoisted large three-sided mainsails on tall and well-supported masts. Bermuda rig Bermuda rig. A Bermuda rig, also called a Marconi rig, is a fore-and-aft rig that uses a triangular mainsail. [ 1] The sail is usually attached to a boom at its foot. [ 2] It has a number of variations. Due to the physics of the wind, the tall thin sails of the Bermudian rigs have more power sailing into the wind than other types. [ 3] Marconi rig The use of the Bermudan rig in the smaller racing classes had been encouraged by the introduction of the International Metre Class in 1907, but the technical difficulties of staying the mast, and the conservatism of the owners, prevented its introduction into the larger classes. However, once the staying of the marconi mast had been mastered it was a logical step to introduce the Bermudan rig ... Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures) More Info on Sail Rig Types First of all, what is a sail rig? A sail rig is the way in which the sails are attached to the mast (s). In other words, it's the setup or configuration of the sailboat. The rig consists of the sail and mast hardware. The sail rig and sail type are both part of the sail plan. We usually use the sail rig type to refer to the type of boat. SAILS & RIGGING: Junk Rigs For Cruisers Junk rigs are in fact safer and much easier to operate than Marconi rigs, hence they probably deserve more attention as a modern cruising rig than they currently receive. As far as we know, the rig was first adapted for use on a Western vessel when Joshua Slocum installed three junk sails on the 35-foot boat Liberdade he built in Brazil in 1887 after he and his family were shipwrecked there ... No Visible Means of Support The term Marconi rig was introduced in the early 20th century as sail plans transitioned from the traditional gaff rig to elongated higher-aspect-ratio "leg 'o mutton" or Bermuda rigs on tall, single-piece masts. Marilee: Inside the 1926 Herreshoff NY40's remarkable restoration In particular, he uncovered a drawing of a Marconi rig, originally designed for Marilee 's 1933 refit. To find a Herreshoff-penned design of a modern rig was an incredible discovery. Marconi, Jib-Header, or Bermudian Marconi, Jib-Header, or Bermudian. The evolution of the Marconi rig, unabated in invention, descendent of patent disputes, and improper adjectivization, Guglielmo Marconi was born at Bologna, Italy, on April 25, 1874, the second son of Giuseppe Marconi, an Italian country gentleman, and Annie Jameson, daughter of Andrew Jameson of Daphne Castle ... The 10 Most Common Sailboats and Rigs The most common types of sailboat rigs today, with photos showing the differences. Over history, dozens of sailboat rigs have been developed and used. Basic Sailing Rigs shapes The Bermuda, or Marconi sailing rig, as it is some time called, is the familiar sail configuration most commonly found on modern sailing boats. As with many sail plans there are countless variations on the theme. Why is the Marconi Rig so Popular? The sloop-rig or whatever name you give it (Bermuda, Marconi) is the best rig to sail upwind. The today' s hullforms are fashioned after the racers that sail under different conditions, therefore the older designs are much better in upwind sailing. And thus for us upwinders. 17-12-2011, 04:43. Defining The Ideal Sailing Rig A Marconi type of rig will ordinarily require a deeper keel for adequate sail carrying ability. One cannot make reasonable comparisons of course to vessels having a fin keel, spade or skeg hung rudder, and sloop rig, as those types will always have superior windward performance. How to Furl A Sail, Part 1 In Part 1, Ben Mendlowitz and Maynard Bray show us why and how to furl a sail as they put Ben's Concordia Yawl to bed. Marconi vs Bahama sloop? It is a fore and aft rig sailboat with a tall triangular mainsail and a sharply raked mast. A "Marconi" rig uses just two spars (mast and boom), whereas a traditional "Gaff" rigged sail has four sides and uses three spars (mast, boom and gaff).u000bu000bA "Bahama Sloop" is a general style of sailboat that is based on a traditional Bahama ... Ketch Schooner Yawl Cutter Marconi rig The Marconi mainsail, from which the rig derives its name, superseded the gaff rig in the early years of the 20th century. It is a triangular sail set on a tall mast. Cutter (J class) Staysail schooner Staysail schooners have sails set forward on stays. A mainsail is sometimes set on the main mast (below). Staysail schooner Three-masted staysail schooner Staysail schooner Staysail ... Cat (Marconi) Rigs: Cat (Marconi) Based on the John Barnett designed Butterfly to race with other 12 foot scow classes. Later built by Hydrostream Boats, who produced it under the model name FOX. Voyager explains junk rig choice Today the epitome of Western boat design is represented by America's Cup contenders and similar high-tech racing boats. Variations of the Bermuda rig (also known as Marconi rig, for the inventor's tall radio transmitting tower) is seen on virtually every racing and voyaging boat to come off the showroom floor. catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht