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1984 hunter 27 sailboat

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1984 hunter 27 sailboat

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1984 hunter 27 sailboat

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  • Sailboat Reviews

The Hunter 27 is a boat built to a price--a low price--and it shows; but it may represent a good value.

The Hunter 27 is the smallest boat in the Hunter line, which runs up to 43′ in length. The Hunter 27 is a popular boat with first-time sailboat buyers, and with small-boat sailors purchasing their first auxiliary cruising boat. Since the boat was introduced in 1975, thousands have been built.

Hunter 27

Like other boats with a reasonably long production run, the Hunter 27 has gone through minor changes since its introduction. Wheel steering is now standard. The boat utilizes a split backstay to allow a stern boarding ladder and to prevent the helmsman from hitting his head on a centerline backstay. All the ports open for ventilation, The mainsheet lead has been altered, and there have been other minor modifications, such as a switch to European-style pulpits and running lights.

Judging from the response of Hunter owners we’ve talked to, all Hunters, including the 27, are purchased for one reason: price. The Hunter 27 is just about the cheapest diesel-powered 27′ cruising boat money can buy.

In their advertising literature, Hunter stresses that efficiency in construction, standardization of components, and low overhead keep their prices low, To some extent, this is true, and it is neither new, nor is it anything to be ashamed of. The Herreshoff Manufacturing Company, known neither for cheap boats nor low quality, pioneered in component standardization and assembly-line construction.

By eliminating factory-installed options, every Hunter 27 can be built the same. No going to the stockroom for an optional item. No time-consuming reading of each boat’s specifications as it moves down the assembly line. There are trade-offs, however.

An inability to custom-tailor a boat. A lack of flexibility in deck layout. The Hunter 27 owner must customize his boat at the dealer level, or do it himself. This appeals to dealers, who often make as much on the installation of options as they do on commissions.

The Hunter 27 is a bit high-sided and sterile looking. High freeboard and a high cabin trunk are almost necessary in a 27, boat that claims over 6′ of headroom. The sterility comes from the Hunter bone white on bone white color scheme, and paucity of external teak trim. Exterior teak is to the fiberglass boatbuilding industry what chrome is to Detroit. There are no hull and deck color options.

Construction

Construction of the Hunter 27 is solid glass layup, with plywood reinforcement in high-stress areas such as winch mountings and locker tops. Gelcoat and finish quality of the hull molding are good. No roving printthrough is evident, and the hull is quite fair—more than can be said for many more expensive boats.

The hull-to-deck joint of the Hunter 27 is simple and strong. The hull molding has an internal flange molded at right angles to the hull at deck level. This flange is heavily coated with adhesive bedding, the deck molding is laid over the flange, and the joint covered with a slotted aluminum toerail which is through-bolted with stainless steel bolts at 6-inch intervals. This is an obvious and very satisfactory answer to the hull-to-deck joint problem. The flaying surfaces of the joint appear to match well, and the adhesive compound has squeezed out along the joint where it can be inspected.

Across the transom, the joint is less satisfactory. The gelcoat and putty with which the joint is faired at the stern was sloppy on every Hunter 27 we examined.

The keel of the Hunter 27 is a narrow, high aspect lead fin weighing 3,000 lbs. The shoal draft version has a much shallower lead fin weighing 3,200 lbs. The additional weight of the shoal keel is to make up for the shift in the vertical center of gravity of the boat that would occur if a shoal keel of the same weight as the deep fin were to be used.

The keel-to-hull joint has caused problems in some Hunter 27s. The narrowness of the lead keel at the point of attachment to the hull results in considerable leverage on the hull when the boat heels. Several Hunter 27 owners who returned The Practical Sailor boat owner evaluations report oilcanning of the hull, leaking keelbolts, or vertical misalignment of the hull and keel. We have observed this vertical misalignment in the Hunter 25, but we have not seen it specifically in the 27.

Hunter 27

The chainplates of the Hunter 27 consist of stainless steel U-bolts fastened through the anodized aluminum toerail. No backing plates are used with these. The chainplates are likely to carry any load to which they will normally be subjected. However, a simple U-bolt, no matter how heavy, is a poor choice for a primary chainplate unless the arc of the U-bolt is radiused to the diameter of the clevis pin which goes through it, and unless the strain on the bolt lines up with its vertical axis, U-bolt chainplates of the correct configuration are used in some European boats, notably the Nicholson and Bowman lines. Both of these lines of boats carry Lloyd’s Bureau of Shipping classification certificates. We strongly suggest that Hunter 27 owners consider installing aluminum or stainless steel backing plates under their U-bolt chainplates, and check them periodically to be sure that the nuts are tight. With only two nuts on each shroud anchorage, this check is extremely important.

The rig is a modern, high aspect ratio masthead sloop. The mast is a deck-stepped, white Kenyon spar, supported by a wood compression column attached to the main bulkhead. We have seen no sign of compression stress in the Hunter 27 mast step.

Hunter uses gate valves on underwater skin fittings, We prefer seacocks. We also prefer some kind of shutoff valve on any skin fitting remotely near the waterline. Few builders provide them. Hunter is no exception.

Handling Under Sail

The Hunter 27 comes with a mainsail and 110% genoa. The total sail area with this configuration is 360 square feet, an average amount for a modern 7,000 lb boat. A larger genoa will be required for sailing in light-air areas.

Despite a ballast/displacement ratio of almost 43%, owners do not consider the Hunter 27 a stiff boat under sail. They also consider the boat’s performance under sail only fair to good. There are several reasons for the boat’s mediocre sailing qualities.

First of all, the boat comes factory-equipped with sails. This means cheaper sails, for they are bought in quantity by the builder. It also, almost inevitably, means sails that are not designed for specific local conditions. Average sails make for average performance.

There is no provision for headsail sheeting angle adjustment. Without a genoa track, all headsails must sheet to the slotted toerail. On a wide 27-footer with this arrangement, the headsail slot will rarely be the proper width for good windward performance.

With a small headsail, the lead will almost always be too far outboard.

There is also no traveler for the main sheet. This limits the creation of the proper angle of attack of the mainsail, and complicates draft control.

A relatively fat boat such as the Hunter 27 rapidly acquires weather helm as the boat heels. This is due in part to the asymmetry of the boat’s submerged sections. The judicious use of sail controls such as travelers, vangs, and flattening reefs greatly enhances the ability to keep the boat sailing on her feet, which will help reduce weather helm. Hunter 27 owners complain that the boat suffers from extreme weather helm.

Chainplates set at the outboard edge of the deck also compromise windward performance. This arrangement makes it almost impossible to close the slot effectively with a large headsail.

If the Hunter 27 were equipped with well-made sails, inboard chainplates, inboard and outboard headsail tracks, a good vang, and a mainsheet traveler, we suspect that there would be a substantial improvement in the boat’s windward ability. There would also be a marked difference in price. Should you desire to make these changes, the parts would probably cost upwards of $1,500. Then the problems begin. How do you attach the chainplates? Will the deck take the vertical loading that will be on the track? Can the boom handle heavy vang loads? We are not talking about turning the Hunter 27 into a hot racer. We are only talking about improving the performance of the boat to a reasonable level for cruising.

Windward performance, then, is one of the tradeoffs made for low price. Only the prospective purchaser, after considering how the boat is to be used, can decide how much that is worth. Since the shoal-draft Hunter 27 is more heavily ballasted than the deep-draft version, its stability is likely to be similar. However, the deep, high aspect ratio fin is likely to be more efficient.

Handling Under Power

With only eight horsepower to push around a 7,000 lb, high-sided boat, do not expect a Hunter 27 to be a sprightly performer under power.

In 1979, the power plant of the Hunter 27 was changed from the eight horsepower Renault diesel. The Renault diesels were relatively untried in the US marine market. The early Yanmar engines, though noisy and noted for their vibration, are also known for their reliability.

At least one owner we talked to was, to put it mildly, disappointed with the Renault installation. Although the engine runs well, the attachment of the shifting mechanism to the transmission lever has the disconcerting habit of vibrating itself loose. When docking, the results of this shortcoming could be less than amusing to both the boat owner and his insurance company.

Owners of Renault-powered Hunter 27s should definitely be aware of this potential problem.

Another owner reported leaking strut bolts and shaft wear due to improper shaft alignment, All engine installations should be realigned after the boat is launched for the first time. This should be a routine part of commissioning, but it rarely is. A given used Hunter 27 may not have had it done.

Engine access is good, behind the removable companionway ladder. There is partial soundproofing in the engine enclosure, but not enough to shield the interior from a substantial amount of noise.

Fuel capacity is 12.5 gallons, in an aluminum tank located in the starboard cockpit locker. The tank is held in place by a stainless steel strap, There is no grounding jumper between the fuel fill and the tank. This is in violation of the standards for fuel tank installation of the American Boat and Yacht Council, which sets minimum standards used in the industry.

Hunter 27

Owners consider the boat underpowered with either the Renault or Yanmar engines. They consider the boat’s performance under power only fair to good.

Deck Layout

Because the Hunter 27’s decks are relatively free of sail control hardware, there are relatively few toe stubbers. Even the grayest cloud has a silver lining.

New Hunter 27s have international style running lights mounted on the bow and stern pulpits. These are far superior to the in-hull running lights on older Hunters, and better than those used on many more expensive boats. New boats also have a good-sized foredeck anchor well, incorporating a well-designed latch and a heavy stainless steel eye for the attachment of the bitter end of the anchor rode. The well has a large scupper which drains through the stem.

Although owners consider the cockpit of the Hunter 27 small, we find it comfortable for five, and certainly large enough for a 27′ boat. Wheel steering has definitely made the cockpit seem bigger. With five people in the cockpit, the stern of the boat begins to squat. A bigger cockpit would only encourage sailing with more people, causing the boat to squat even more.

Late models have Yacht Specialties pedestal steering. There is good provision for an emergency tiller, which is supplied with the boat.

Access to the steering gear is excellent, through the lazarette locker. Unfortunately, because the steering gear, scupper hoses, and exhaust hose go through this locker, it cannot be used for storage. To do so would be to risk damage to vital parts of the ship’s systems.

There is a large locker under the starboard cockpit seat. Unfortunately, because the fuel tank is located in this locker, nothing can really be stowed there without risking damage to the fuel system. Wet lines or sails stored in the locker would drip on the aluminum tank, inviting corrosion. Shelves installed in both these lockers would make them more useful.

To raise the cockpit sill above the level of the lowest cockpit coaming, the lower drop-board must be left in place, This complicates access below when underway, but having the companionway blocked up to deck level is essential for sailing in unsheltered waters or heavy weather.

The cockpit bulkhead slopes forward. This means that a dodger must be installed if one wishes to ventilate the cabin in rain or heavy weather.

The high cockpit coamings provide good backrests for those sitting in the cockpit. They should also help keep the cockpit dry. These coamings have moldedin sheet winch islands. The owner wishing to upgrade to winches larger than the standard Lewmar 7s will discover that the islands are too small for a much larger winch. For the owner who wishes to use a large genoa, this could be a real problem. Despite these shortcomings, the T-shaped cockpit is reasonably comfortable, and is one of the boat’s better design features.

The Hunter 27 is a roomy boat. Headroom is just over 6′ under the main hatch, and almost 5′ 10″ at the forward end of the main cabin.

The forepeak contains a double berth. Aft of that cabin is a full-width head. Newer Hunter 27s have a holding tank system. Older boats are likely to have portable heads.

The main cabin has settee berths port and starboard. These settees extend under the forward bulkhead. While this arrangement reduces seating area, it also allows more room for the galley and quarterberth. It’s a reasonable trade-off.

To port, at the aft end of the cabin, there is a quarterberth. A folding chart table is located over the forward end of the quarterberth. To starboard is the galley, with sink, two-burner alcohol stove, and icebox.

With eight opening ports, two opening hatches, and the companionway, ventilation in newer Hunter 27s is excellent at anchor in good weather. Older models have fewer opening ports. As with many boats, there is no provision for ventilation in heavy weather.

With a molded glass headliner, teak-finished bulkheads, solid teak trim, and teak cabin sole, the cabin has a finished appearance. There is good storage for a boat of this size for short-term cruising. Joinerwork is of fair stock boat quality.

Conclusions

A new Hunter 27 in the ’80s was about the least expensive boat in its class—far cheaper than many other boats of this size. The boat also comes standard with items that are optional on other boats, such as wheel steering, life jackets, anchor, and fire extinguishers.

However, it is not realistic to expect a boat that is 15% cheaper than another boat of the same size and type to be equivalent in quality. There is just so much that efficiency, standardization, and bulk buying can do toward reducing the price of a boat. Inevitably, the price of a boat is a function the time, materials, and incidental costs that go into it. There is no magic way to reduce the cost of building a boat.

The Hunter 27 graphically demonstrates how costs can be reduced. A great deal of time is saved in construction by hurrying finish work, by using staples instead of screws, by eliminating the necessity to customize each boat.

Hunter owners are the first to admit the influence that the low price of the boat had on their boat-buying decision. Many are happy with their boats, some are defensive about them, and others are really unhappy with them. For the relatively unsophisticated sailboat buyer—the new sailor, the powerboat convert—the Hunter 27 may represent a good value. As his experience grows, we expect he will be willing to pay more, in order to get more.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Thank you for this article as I, a novice am about to rehab and deal with a 1978 Hunter. As I go through this I suspect many a sentence will ring in my mind to remind me what an experienced sailor has: time to reflect on learning experiences and sharing it with others. Best Wishes and fair winds – Alex Schult

I have a 1979 Hunter 27 I have completely restored her I re manned a yanmar 20gmf new North Sailes new standing and running rigging keel bolts do not leak self tailing winches yes she is a production boat but points and sails fine for cruising. Interior completely renovated hmmn no staples! I have seen and been on some so called higher end boats quality and preformence is a matter of opinion you need deep pockets for a custom boat if you have the $$$ go for it for me I’ll stick with my Hunter 27 Aura great boat without breaking the bank!😎

Hey Theodore, I’ve owned a 82 Hunter 27’ for over 20 years. I took a job about 5 years ago that included a lot of international travel and found myself using my boat for doc candy and Christmas decorations at our home doc. So, I’m beginning a complete refrub, which includes a new Yanmar motor (ouch). I’ve got quite a bit of interior and exterior rehab with not a lot of experience. Anyway I could pull on some of your experience?

We purchased a 1979 Hunter 27 in 2020 as an upgrade from our Nordica 16. Our territory (the Baie de Chaleurs) in northern New Brunswick Canada has a reputation for unpredictable winds and weather. I installed wheel steering (an Edson outfit) which greatly improved my enjoyment. However, I still has issued with docking using the low-cockpit controls for the Yanmar diesel. Researching for solutions, I came across the website of “Electric Yacht” out of Minnesota. So, in 2021, I converted the drive to electric. It has taken me two years to sell the Yanmar. The conversion cost me around $15,000 CA including 4 hours for a machinist to align the propeller shaft and electric motor properly (the hardest part). We are more than happy with the results. Docking now is a joy. I even learned to back-in to our berth and my eyes are always on my surroundings. All the controls are on my binacle The 10 KW motor uses four 150 AmpHr lithium iron-phosphate batteries and works flawlessly. We have even crossed the bay to Quebec twice under just power alone. No gas, no fumes, no noise. He are happy saiiers 🙂

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Quick Look: Hunter 27

  • By Cruising World Staff
  • Updated: August 26, 2010

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

Even if you can’t have–or don’t want–a big boat, you can have big-boat stuff. At least that’s the message Hunter Marine is sending with the new Hunter 27, especially when it’s tricked out with the Deluxe Package.

Right down to the shore-power supply, the half-electric/half-butane two-burner stove, the microwave, and the 12-volt cooler that you load at home and stow in a specially built drawer in the galley, this boat is equally well equipped for life at the dock and for sorties to nearby cruising grounds.

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

The Hunter design team came up with a boat that fits the niche of a 27-foot sailboat for novices who want stability, ease of operation, and value. With leisure time being a rare commodity for most folks, a Category C venue is about as far as most will get on the spur of a moment before it’s time to head back. The Hunter provides a means to enjoy such moments in comfort.

For anyone whose experience in 27-footers is determined by boats like the Bristol 27 of the 1960s–me, for one–the Hunter 27 offers a new yardstick. Thanks to its plumb stem, long waterline, broad beam, and high freeboard, there’s elbow room everywhere the older boats lack it: in the V-berth (in this layout, essentially an extension of the saloon), the saloon (with comfortable seating for at least six around a central table), the head (complete with shower), and the galley. In addition, the Hunter provides an aft cabin complete with a hanging locker, a seat, and a huge athwartships berth under the cockpit–all wrapped into a package with crisp and attractive lines.

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

An inboard engine, a 9-horsepower Yanmar, is standard, and access to it is generous, particularly from the front: The companionway steps hinge up, their weight taken by gas struts, to reveal most of the maintenance points and a water heater for the shower.

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

The Hunter 27 is also quite nicely equipped for sailing. The mainsheet is double-ended–one end with a 3:1 purchase for quick trimming, and the other with a 6:1 ratio for fine-tuning–and the cockpit is laid out for easy singlehanding. The standard rig is a fractional B&R arrangement with optional in-mast furling.

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

Another big-boat feature is the wheel steering. At 27 feet, the boat is at the margin between the practicality of a tiller and the comfort of a wheel, but Hunter insists the market has embraced wheel steering, so a wheel it is. The optional Lewmar folding wheel further improves access to the walk-through transom, but it’s pushed so far aft to open up the cockpit that the stern lifeline interferes with the helm seat. As on all Hunters, back-seat drivers can second-guess the skipper from perches in the corner pushpits, but they’d better not be too critical, as guest spots on this boat will be easy to fill.

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1984 Hunter 27

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

Boat: 1984 Hunter 27 Hull Num: HUN55308M84A KY Number: KY-0660-YK Name on Boat: Knot Stress N Color: White w/Blue Stripe Const: Fiberglass Motor: Westerbeke Model: 12B 2 Cylinder HP: 12 Serial Number: LOA: 27’ 2” LWL: 22’ Keel: Fin Draft: 4’ 3” Beam: 9’ 3” Displacement: 7,000 lbs Ballast: 3,000 lbs. Mast Height: 40’ 11” Spars and Rigging: Masthead Rig Sails: Main w/Cover (new 2013, reconditioned 2018), 150% (new 2015, reconditioned 2017) Sail Area: 362 sq. ft. Steering: Wheel Tanks: Fuel 12.5 Gal. Water: 36 Gal. HOLDING TANK: 18 Gal Galley: Icebox, Alcohol Stove, Pressure Water Head: Marine Head, Vanity Electrical: 2 Batteries w/SwitchBattery Charger, LED Interior Lighting, LED Mast & Running Exterior Lights Electronics: Cobra VHF, Stereo w/Speakers, Depth 2024 Accommodations: Sleeps 5 in 2 Cabins Equipment: Bimini, Cockpit Cushions, Marine AC/Heat, Winch Covers, Pedestal Cover,

Price: $8,2000

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Hunter 27



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1984 hunter 27 sailboat

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Hunter 27 2

The hunter 27 2 is a 26.58ft fractional sloop designed by hunter design team and built in fiberglass by hunter marine (usa) between 1989 and 1994..

The Hunter 27 2 is a light sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat. The fuel capacity is originally very small.

Hunter 27 2 sailboat under sail

Hunter 27 2 for sale elsewhere on the web:

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

Main features

Model Hunter 27 2
Length 26.58 ft
Beam 9 ft
Draft 3.50 ft
Country United states (North America)
Estimated price $ 0 ??

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1984 hunter 27 sailboat

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Sail area / displ. 16.85
Ballast / displ. 40 %
Displ. / length 198.07
Comfort ratio 17.49
Capsize 2.11
Hull type Monohull wing keel
Construction Fiberglass
Waterline length 22.42 ft
Maximum draft 3.50 ft
Displacement 5000 lbs
Ballast 2000 lbs
Hull speed 6.34 knots

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

We help you build your own hydraulic steering system - Lecomble & Schmitt

Rigging Fractional Sloop
Sail area (100%) 307 sq.ft
Air draft 39.20 ft
Sail area fore 141.91 sq.ft
Sail area main 165.16 sq.ft
I 29.35 ft
J 9.67 ft
P 30.50 ft
E 10.83 ft
Nb engines 1
Total power 9 HP
Fuel capacity 12 gals

Accommodations

Water capacity 0 gals
Headroom 6.08 ft
Nb of cabins 0
Nb of berths 0
Nb heads 0

Builder data

Builder Hunter Marine (USA)
Designer Hunter Design Team
First built 1989
Last built 1994
Number built 0 ??

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1984 hunter 27 sailboat

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  • Sailboat Guide

1984 Hunter 27

  • Description

Seller's Description

1984 Hunter 27 Shoal Draft (wheel steering), used on the Chesapeake Bay and has been a great pocket cruiser. Perfect for day and weekend trips!

Brand new 140% Genoa and Asymmetric spinnaker bought in 2019. New partially battened main purchased in 2017. Most running rigging replaced in 2018/2019.

Westerbeke 10 Two diesel engine rebuilt in 2019. Less than 30 hrs on rebuilt engine.

Custom bimini, however canvas is torn and will need to be replaced. SS frame is intact.

All 8 ports have been replaced with new tinted OEM windows.

Front hatch replaced with tinted heavy duty ocean series window.

Cutlass bearing, stuffing box, packing and shaft tube replaced 2019.

Equipment: - Older Raymarine wind speed instrument. Fully functional however masthead transducer cable is run external. Next time mast is off cable can be run inside.

Garmin echoMap DV 43 GPS/Chart plotter and depth and down view.

Window unit AC (fits in companionway during those hot nights, needs shore power)

Two Danforth anchors with chain and rode.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Shoal draft/wing keel: 3.25’, Disp. 7200 lbs. Later boats were available with Yanmar diesel.

Tall Rig: I: 37.50’/11.43m J: 11.30’/3.44m P: 32.30’/9.85m E: 9.30’/2.83m Total (100%): 362 ft2/33.63m2

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Lake Canyon Yacht Club

1984 Hunter 27

1984 Hunter 27 located in D337: great boat to learn to sail and enjoy the lake. Includes an inboard diesel, Bimini, roller fulling jib, Wheel steering, all the gear to sail the lake. Needs some TLC.  Asking $3,750 OBO

For more information contact Thomas Burkhart (512)-540-1267 or Shelly Burkhart (469)-446-2540

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Hunter 27, 1984 at [email protected]

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Advice on 1984 Hunter 27

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

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1984 27' Sloop Hunter Sailboat Diesel Daysailer - eBay (item 320644498856 end time Jan-24-11 12:47:48 PST) Just wanting your advice on this boat. I would have to have iit transported to Kemah. Probably about $1200 on top of whatever I pay for the boat. Any words of wisdom appreciated.  

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

Looks good in the ad. I wouldn't buy or make an offer on a boat I hadn't seen personally though. Tall rig with a shallow wing keel seems a bit strange to me - wouldn't you want a deep keel with the taller rig?  

I don't know why for certain they would have the taller rig with the shoal wing keel, but I can only think that with our area having many shallow parts that possibly he got it that way to keep it from running aground and to try to still get the best performance he could out of it. Am I right in thinking that the wing keel has the "wings on the bottom" That way it can have the hefty ballast and still run the shoal draft that we need here in the Kemah area? Just my thaughts. What do you think? Will it have a problem with the tall rig and shallow draft even with the extra ballast running in the wing keel? It doesn't have one now but if I get this boat I plan to put a spinnaker on it later.  

When the same boat is offered with deep and shallow draft the biggest difference with the shallow draft version is usually in pointing ability. Stability is usually not a real factor as the shallow draft versions usually have more ballast. I don't think there is anything wrong with shallow draft/tall rig combinations but is seems a bit strange that one would want the performance oriented rig and the underbody with the lesser performance of the 2 versions.  

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

With the buy it now price at 4900 i would want a real good survey  

I only have experience with the Watkins 23 and it is a VERY rugged boat that is very forgiving and easy to sail, its tough to hurt her. The Watkins were built in Florida and many of the designs emphasised the needs of vessels in the state; ie: shoal draft and the ability to survive groundings.  

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

There's a guy giving away a Hunter 27 on the SBO forums.  

You would want a tall rig and shoal draft, I imagine, for shallow water and light air. Common Chesapeake conditions, and a reasonable compromize if performance is not your goal, but sailing in August is.  

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

I also think that the 'tall rig' with the 'shoal draft' wing keel is a bit odd. I also doubt that the boat weighs 7000 #'s as claimed in the ebay add and sailboatdata.com seems to confirm this: HUNTER 27 WK Sailboat details on sailboatdata.com More like 5 to 6,000 lbs. I'm also not really a big fan of winged keels. Why? I've run aground enough times on various boats and always been able to get off the grounding - except on a winged keel boat (O'Day 272) in an ebbing tide. With a winged keel you can't even try heeling the boat over to one side as the 'wings' will just dig themselves in deeper. On the O'Day 272 we waited for the tide to roll out and back in while the boat stood on the beach on its winged keel. This may be less of an issue on the TX Gulf coast where I don't think you get much in the way of regular tidal range - where we sailed the 272 the tidal range was 8' like clockwork (LI Sound). The cost for moving it will add somewhere up to $2K I'd guess. There must be a whole bunch of 27' boats in Kemah for sale. Besides, Lake Travis is where smackdaddy keeps his Catalina 27 so this one has probably made contact with the SmackTanic.  

Caleb Part of the 7000 lbs may be extra ballast due to the shoal draft. The shoal draft version of my boat (CS27) has an extra 400 lbs of ballast. I have the deep draft version. I agree with the wing keel disadvantages as well. A conventional keeled boat draws less when heeled over to get off a shoal.  

1984 hunter 27 sailboat

If it's truly in good solid shape withvery good standing rigging... very good sails then I'd say offer the guy $ 3,900 but no more because of your shipping/transport issue ...tell the seller that your budget is less than 6 grand. I'd really have to walk on the boat...bring a knowledgeable friend if your not sure what to look for...research it as much as possible and spend an hour at least looking her over in person before any decision that involves that much cash. and ebay.For me if I was paying more than a couple grand I'd say definitely get a reputable surveyor.  

I cheked with a transport company today and they quoted $1200 to move it to Kemah. That doesn't include lowering the mast. I will have to pay somebody there to do that, but I have a bucket truck here to put it back up. I was told that should cost about $100. Then there is the cost of the haul out to put it on the trailer. I will have to get it figured out I guess. I will have it all figured before I make the 3 hour drive to look at it. Thanks for all the help. Always looking for good advice.  

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1984 Hunter 27 - Emergency Tiller System

  • Thread starter Hunter Enthusiast
  • Start date Jul 15, 2024
  • Forums for All Owners
  • Ask All Sailors

Hunter Enthusiast

Greetings all, I recently purchased a 1984 Hunter 27 and am diligently preparing it for sea. One issue I've ran into is that there is no Emergency Tiller on-board. My research suggests it might not be a difficult job to make/fabricate an Emergency Tiller for my particular sail-boat. This said, it would be nice to know what the original Emergency Tiller looked like. If anyone has pictures of the OEM Emergency Tiller, suggestions, comments, etc., I'd certainly appreciate it. Additionally, I've attached pictures of what my particular Emergency Tiller interface looks like. Respectfully, Mark Lord  

Attachments

Emergency Tiller - P1.jpg

You may do better by fabricating your own emergency tiller. Boat builders tend to cheap out on temporary tillers. If you are really going off shore you should realize that a lot of failed passages fail because of loss of steering. I would submit that steering is a bigger risk to off shore yachts than standing rigging. For ocean sailing I would always go for the best steering hardware possible. And redundancy.  

kappykaplan

kappykaplan

shemandr said: You may do better by fabricating your own emergency tiller. Click to expand

dLj

Are the pictures showing the top of the rudder post? Or is that a coupling that attaches somehow to the rudder? If I were going to make an emergency tiller, I'd make sure I understood that entire connection. It also looks like you may have a clearance issue with the current wheel. I have seen short emergency tillers that run using block and tackle to run short tillers as it looks like you might need. Those require attachment points on the sides to connect the tiller and have enough power to run them. Just some quick and dirty observations. dj  

heritage

It is a bent steel rod with a notched cylinder welded to one end. The notch fits over the bolt (shown in your pics) that secures the top of the rudder post. Reminds me of a tool that turns on the city water valve. It turns the rudder like a tiller would, but it is short and takes some effort when heeled over. I can post a picture of mine when I am at the boat in a few days.  

heritage said: It is a bent steel rod with a notched cylinder welded to one end. The notch fits over the bolt (shown in your pics) that secures the top of the rudder post. Reminds me of a tool that turns on the city water valve. It turns the rudder like a tiller would, but it is short and takes some effort when heeled over. I can post a picture of mine when I am at the boat in a few days. Click to expand
dLj said: Are the pictures showing the top of the rudder post? Or is that a coupling that attaches somehow to the rudder? If I were going to make an emergency tiller, I'd make sure I understood that entire connection. It also looks like you may have a clearance issue with the current wheel. I have seen short emergency tillers that run using block and tackle to run short tillers as it looks like you might need. Those require attachment points on the sides to connect the tiller and have enough power to run them. Just some quick and dirty observations. dj Click to expand
kappykaplan said: Click to expand
shemandr said: You may do better by fabricating your own emergency tiller. Boat builders tend to cheap out on temporary tillers. If you are really going off shore you should realize that a lot of failed passages fail because of loss of steering. I would submit that steering is a bigger risk to off shore yachts than standing rigging. For ocean sailing I would always go for the best steering hardware possible. And redundancy. Click to expand

kloudie1

Yup.. a piece of pipe or thick wall tubing that fits into the stock about 3-4 inches past the cross pin in the rudder post.. a slot cut into the pipe to engage the pin the pipe should stick up above the rudder post 4-6 inches .. weld a kinda horizontal handle to the top of the pipe; make the handle long enough to just clear the wheel to get the max leverage.. lots of folks drill a hole in the end of the handle so that a line can be tied there to lock the rudder in place or operated using the combing winches..  

JamesG161

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

For more information on how to make one, read this link. No emergency tiller... but then again... no emergency... yet! I have pictures of mine on a larger boat but concept on how the ET is designed and use is explained. Jim...  

kloudie1 said: Yup.. a piece of pipe or thick wall tubing that fits into the stock about 3-4 inches past the cross pin in the rudder post.. a slot cut into the pipe to engage the pin the pipe should stick up above the rudder post 4-6 inches .. weld a kinda horizontal handle to the top of the pipe; make the handle long enough to just clear the wheel to get the max leverage.. lots of folks drill a hole in the end of the handle so that a line can be tied there to lock the rudder in place or operated using the combing winches.. Click to expand
JamesG161 said: For more information on how to make one, read this link. No emergency tiller... but then again... no emergency... yet! I have pictures of mine on a larger boat but concept on how the ET is designed and use is explained. Jim... Click to expand

Tally Ho

I have a similar issue as the original poster. Question: how does it lock in or is it just a gravity thing, or is it bolted in?  

Gravity mostly… no pins or locks on mine.  

Tally Ho said: Gravity mostly… Click to expand

When is use... Gravity plus Muscle power. Jim...  

20240718_104217.jpg

This is what happens to an H27 emergency tiller after being in the bottom of the aft locker for six years! Looks like I will also be having one made, maybe in stainless. The old one was designed to fit inside the pipe that carries the rudder shaft. It could also be designed to fit over the pipe and capture the outside ends of the bolt that supports the rudder shaft. The tiller extension is about 12 inches and made of 1 inch square stock. The notches need to be large enough to capture the bolt that supports the top of the rudder. Definitely would need some power assist to operate it in anything but calm waters.  

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COMMENTS

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    1984 27' Sloop Hunter Sailboat Diesel Daysailer - eBay (item 320644498856 end time Jan-24-11 12:47:48 PST) Just wanting your advice on this boat. I would have to have iit transported to Kemah. Probably about $1200 on top of whatever I pay for the boat.

  23. 1984 Hunter 27

    Jul 15, 2024. #1. Greetings all, I recently purchased a 1984 Hunter 27 and am diligently preparing it for sea. One issue I've ran into is that there is no Emergency Tiller on-board. My research suggests it might not be a difficult job to make/fabricate an Emergency Tiller for my particular sail-boat. This said, it would be nice to know what the ...