backstay on a sailboat

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Backstays to the Future

• By Alvah Simon
• Updated: March 28, 2013

backstay setup

A running backstay is a removable stay that provides aft support to the mast from either the masthead or the point at which an inner forestay is attached. It originated as a response to the material limits of the period. At that time, solid wooden masts, for example, were either too weak or too heavy to be made particularly tall. Therefore, to achieve an acceptable area of sail for the heavy-displacement boats of the day, either the boom had to be extended beyond the transom or a gaff had to be added to the top of the sail—or both. This precluded the use of fixed backstays because the boom and gaffs had to be free to swing across the vessel when it tacked and jibed. As a tack or jibe was initiated, the burdened backstay had to be released and, as the spars swung through, the new, now windward, stay had to be fastened quickly before the entire rig came tumbling down.

With the advent of hollow masts, first of wood and then of alloy, and stainless-steel wire, the aspect ratio of the rigs began to extend to 3-to-1 and beyond. This allowed for the development of the Bermuda or Marconi rig, which eliminated gaffs and shortened the booms considerably without the loss of sail area or performance.

Running backstays, or runners, were then generally found only on cutter-rigged vessels. But through the 1960s and 1970s, the sloop became the rig du jour, and running backstays fell from favor. With the introduction of Freedom Yachts’ freestanding mast and Hunter’s B&R rig, the trend veered toward eliminating backstays, running or not, altogether.

Where are we today? Are running backstays now simply anachronisms that add unnecessary weight, windage, and clutter? I think not, especially in the context of bluewater cruising.

Sloops are fast around the buoys, but in the open sea, they display two disadvantages. First, the sail area is shared by only two large and therefore more difficult to handle sails. Second, in storm conditions, a sloop’s headsail, no matter how much it’s furled, still leaves the center of effort too far forward and too high to produce a safe and comfortable motion.

The cutter rig distributes the sail area over an additional sail, and that inner forestay is a superior position from which to hank on a low-flown storm sail. But with any real force upon it, the inner forestay can distort the shape of the mast; this will require a countereffort. Enter the intermediate running backstay. The arguable benefit of a staysail aside, this lower triangulation of support adds strength and stability to the mast, which translates into a better chance of coming up from a knockdown with the rig intact. Think sailing in the South Atlantic Ocean —it matters.

But alas, when you’re sailing off the wind, these same runners will have to be attended to on each and every tack. In open-ocean situations, this might not happen for days at a time. In confined waters, however, it’s necessary to have a quick and efficient method for setting and stowing runners.

Ideas and hardened opinions on running backstays are diverse and plentiful enough to keep seaside barstools warm all night. See the accompanying images and diagrams to learn about some of the most common approaches to setup and stowage.

If you’re considering adding an inner forestay and running backstays, I recommend that you get professional advice addressing the minimum engineering angles required, appropriate deck hardware, proper tangs and toggles needed at the mast, and wire types and diameters.

I don’t mean to imply that running backstays are suitable for all boats and applications. But if your interests lie in bluewater passagemaking and you take a belt-and-suspenders approach to your safety, I believe that you’ll agree that the added weight, windage, cost, and inconvenience are more than justified.

Alvah Simon, a CW contributing editor, is the author of North to the Night .

Click here for more pictures of running backstay setups . Click here to read about how an inner forestay and staysail can help you beat along in a blow.

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The Running Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The running rigging on a sailboat consists of all the lines used to hoist, lower, and control the sails and sailing equipment. These lines usually have different colors and patterns to easily identify their function and location on the vessel.

Looking at the spaghetti of lines with different colors and patterns might get your head spinning. But don’t worry, it is actually pretty simple. Each line on a sailboat has a function, and you’ll often find labels describing them in the cockpit and on the mast.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the functions of every component of the running rigging. We’ll also look at the hardware we use to operate it and get up to speed on some of the terminology.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts, the  standing , and the  running  rigging.

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing. Check out my guide on standing rigging here!
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate and control the sails on a sailboat which we will explore in this guide.

The components of the running rigging

Knowing the running rigging is an essential part of sailing, whether you are sailing a cruising boat or crewing on a large yacht. Different types of sailing vessels have different amounts of running rigging.

For example, a sloop rig has fewer lines than a ketch, which has multiple masts and requires a separate halyard, outhaul, and sheet for its mizzen sail. Similarly, a cutter rig needs another halyard and extra sheets for its additional headsail.

You can dive deeper and read more about Sloop rigs, Ketch Rigs, Cutter rigs, and many others here .

Take a look at this sailboat rigging diagram:

Lines are a type of rope with a smooth surface that works well on winches found on sailboats. They come in various styles and sizes and have different stretch capabilities.

Dyneema and other synthetic fibers have ultra-high tensile strength and low stretch. These high-performance lines last a long time, and I highly recommend them as a cruiser using them for my halyards.

A halyard is a line used to raise and lower the sail. It runs from the head of the sail to the masthead through a  block and  continues down to the deck. Running the halyard back to the cockpit is common, but many prefer to leave it on the mast.

Fun fact:  Old traditional sailboats sometimes used a stainless steel wire attached to the head of the sail instead of a line!

Jib, Genoa, and Staysail Halyards

The halyard for the headsail is run through a block in front of the masthead. If your boat has a staysail, it needs a separate halyard. These lines are primarily untouched on vessels with a furling system except when you pack the sail away or back up. Commonly referred to as the jib halyard.

Spinnaker Halyard

A spinnaker halyard is basically the same as the main halyard but used to hoist and lower the spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor. 

The spinnaker halyard is also excellent for climbing up the front of the mast, hoisting the dinghy on deck, lifting the outboard, and many other things.

A sheet is a line you use to  control and trim a sail to the angle of the wind . The  mainsheet  controls the angle of the mainsail and is attached between the boom and the  mainsheet   traveler . The two headsail sheets are connected to the sail’s clew (lower aft corner) and run back to each side of the cockpit.

These are control lines used to adjust the angle and tension of the sail. It is also the line used to unfurl a headsail on a furling system. Depending on what sail you are referring to, this can be the  Genoa sheet , the  Jib sheet , the  Gennaker sheet , etc.

The outhaul is a line attached to the clew of the mainsail and used to adjust the foot tension. It works runs from the mainsail clew to the end of the boom and back to the mast. In many cases, back to the cockpit. On a boat with  in-mast furling , this is the line you use to pull the sail out of the mast.

Topping lift

The topping lift is a line attached to the boom’s end and runs through the masthead and down to the deck or cockpit. It lifts and holds the boom and functions well as a spare main halyard. Some types of sailboat rigging don’t use a topping lift for their boom but a boom vang instead. Others have both!

Topping lifts can also be used to lift other spars.

A downhaul is a line used to lower with and typically used to haul the mainsail down when reefing and lowering the spinnaker and whisker poles. The downhaul can also control the tack of an asymmetrical spinnaker, gennaker, or parasailor.

Tweaker and Barber Haul

A tweaker is a line, often elastic, attached to the sheet of a headsail and used to fine-tune the tension on the sheet.

Barber haul

A barber haul is a line attached to a headsail’s sheet to adjust the sheeting angle to the wind. It is often used to pull the clew further toward the center or outboard than the cars allow.

Boom Preventer

A boom preventer is a line attached to the boom’s end when sailing off the wind. Its function is to hold the spar in place and prevent it from swinging wildly.

If the boat were to get an accidental gybe, it could cause serious damage to the rigging or even harm people on board. It is important for the rigger to be cautious when setting up the boom preventer.

Running Backstay

Running backstays is similar to a normal backstay but uses a line instead of a hydraulic tensioner. Some rigs have additional check stays or runners as well.

Bonus tip: Reefing

The term reefing is used when reducing the effective sailing area exposed to the wind of a given sail. Headsails are usually reefed by partially furling them in, and they often have marks for what we refer to as 1st, 2nd, and 3rd reefs.

The mainsail is reefed similarly with an in-mast furling or in-boom furling system.

On a traditional mast, we use a system called slab reefing. The system has reefing lines running through the boom to reinforced points on the luff and leech, allowing you to pull the sail down to the boom and effectively reduce the sail area.

Having at least two reefing points in the mainsail is normal, but most cruising sailboats have 3. The 3rd is used for the heaviest conditions, giving you only a tiny bit of sail area exposed to the wind.

You want to reef your sails  before  the wind increases to a point where your boat gets overpowered.

It is essential to practice your reefing technique . You will find yourself in situations with rapidly increasing winds where you need to reduce your sails quickly.

Rule of thumb:  If you think setting a reef might be a good idea, do it.

Shaking a reef  is the term used when we sail with a reefed sail and want to increase the sail area back to full.

Hardware used for sail handling and the running rigging

Furling system.

Most sailboats have their headsail on a furling system. A furling system is a tube that runs along the forestay from the bottom furler drum to the masthead swivel.

This system allows you to roll the headsail around the forestay, making furling the sail in and out accessible. It is also convenient when reefing the sail when the wind picks up, as you can easily do this from the safety of the cockpit. These furling systems come in manual versions and electric versions.

In-mast furling

In-mast furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the mast. To unfurl the mainsail, we use the  outhaul .

In-boom furling

In-boom furling is a system that rolls the mainsail in and out of the boom. This system has been costly and has mostly been seen on big yachts earlier. They are becoming more affordable and common on smaller boats, though. To unfurl this setup, we use the main halyard.

A Stack pack is also called a Lazy Bag or Lazy Pack. It is a bag with a zip attached to the boom where the mainsail is stored when unused. It protects the mainsail from UV rays from the sun and weather elements. It is a very nice and tidy way to store the mainsail and reefing lines if you don’t have in-mast or in-boom furling.

Lazy Jacks is a system of lines running from the stack pack to the mast. The Lazy Jacks guide the mainsail up and down from the Stack Pack and prevent it from falling down on the deck. It is also possible to rig Lazy Jacks without a Stack Pack.

A block is a pulley with a sheave wheel. Blocks are used to change the direction of a pull on a line or rope and give a mechanical advantage. They have many uses, especially onboard sailboats.

A winch is a metal drum that gives you a mechanical advantage to control and tighten lines. These can be operated by turning a rope around it and pulling manually or by a winch handle to get more force. Most modern winches are self-tailing, which means they lock the line on so you can winch the line without holding on to it. Some boats even have electrical winches operated by a button.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a horizontal track that the mainsheet is attached to through a series of blocks. The traveler enables you to adjust and lock the boom at an angle and also plays a critical part in trimming the mainsail.

Most cruising sailboats have their traveler attached to the top of the coachroof in front of the spray hood. A racing boat typically has the traveler in the cockpit near the helm to give the helmsman better control over the mainsheet.

The cars are basically a pulley or block attached to a track on the port and starboard deck that your headsail sheets run through. Cars are used to control the angle of the sheet between the clew and the deck. The cars are handy when you trim the sail to set the right balance of tension between the foot and leech, depending on your point of sail.

The jammer is used to lock a line in place. Most sailboats use these for locking the halyards, mainsheet, outhaul, reef lines, traveler lines, boom vang lines, etc. You can pull or winch a line through a closed jammer, but it won’t run away if you let go of it unless you open the lock. 

As I explained earlier, it is normal to have most or all of the lines led back to the cockpit, and they are usually run through a series of jammers.

The jammers are often labeled with the name of the line it locks, which makes it easier to remember which line goes where.

Spinnaker Pole

A spinnaker pole is a spar used to wing out a headsail when sailing off the wind, particularly the spinnaker. The spinnaker pole should have the same length as the distance between the mast and the forestay measured along the deck. We use a fore and aft guy and the pole’s topping lift to rig a pole correctly.

The rigging varies depending on the layout of the boat, but it usually looks like this:

• One line runs from the bow to the end of the pole.
• An aft line runs from near the stern to the end of the pole.
• A topping lift is used to raise and lower the pole.

Whisker Pole

A whisker pole is similar to the spinnaker pole and is rigged similarly. It is typically built lighter and attached to a track on the mast. These can be found in fixed lengths or adjustable lengths. Ideally, the length should be the same as the foot of the headsail you intend to pole out.

Boom Vang/Rod Kicker

The Boom Vang has a few different names. Rod-kicker, kicking strap, or kicker. It is used to tension the boom downwards. When you are sailing downwind and have the boom far out, the mainsheet won’t pull the boom down as much as inboard, and you can then use the vang to adjust the twist and shape of the mainsail.

Mooring line

A mooring line is a traditional rope lead through a fairlead to the vessel’s cleat and a mooring buoy, key, or pontoon.

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of how the running rig on a sailboat functions. We’ve covered the different lines, their purpose, and the hardware used to operate them. I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide and learned something new.

Now it’s time to take what you’ve learned and put it into practice by getting out on the water, setting sail, and getting hands-on experience with the lines.

Or you can continue to my following guide and learn more about the different types of sails .

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

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It's All About that Backstay

May 6, 2021

As the 2021 summer season kicks off, Quantum Portland's Carter White recaps a few lessons learned at Canandaigua Yacht Club’s J Daze regatta.

I just returned from calling tactics on the J/24 Ice Cube at Canandaigua Yacht Club’s J Daze regatta in the Finger Lakes region of New York State. I spent many summers on Skaneateles Lake when I was younger and four years on Seneca Lake sailing for Hobart and William Smith Colleges. These lakes are narrow and oriented north-south. When I saw west winds forecasted for the regatta, I was both pleased and worried. We would have wind, yes, but the sailing would be challenging, with large shifts and huge pressure differences every few seconds.

For the race weekend, we had 4 knots to 12 knots out of the west, with an occasional larger gust on Sunday. On each leg, the shifts were between 15 degrees and 45 degrees, and the pressure varied by 6 knots every few minutes. Two boats could sail upwind within a boat length of each other, yet be 30 degrees apart and 4 knots apart in speed.

After the first day, we were winning by a large margin. We had two mediocre races on the second day, and ended up finishing in second place by one point. In all, there were only six points separating the top six finishers, which showed the strength of the top teams and the inconsistent race conditions. After this challenging weekend, our crew had four major takeaways.

1. Have Options at the Start

If the wind or currents change during the start, you want flexibility to change where you start. Look for open space on the line and any space developing behind the line. Starting where there are fewer boats gives you the option to tack or go straight. If you find yourself too close to other boats at the start, decide quickly which tack you want to be on right off the start. If you want to be on starboard tack first, stay close to the boat windward of you. This gives you plenty of room to leeward to put your bow down and accelerate off the start. A good acceleration is key to holding your lane on starboard tack off the line. If there is a large left hand shift during the start, then push towards the boat to leeward of you and leave a hole to windward so that you can tack into that space. If you get enough speed, you’ll hopefully be able to tack and cross the boats to the right of you if they’re slow. Worst case is that you all tack at the same time or you need to duck a boat or two. This will be worth it, as you will be on the lifted tack first and sailing less distance.

2. Sail the Lifted Tack

Sailing the lifted tack applies both upwind and downwind. By sailing the lifted tack or jibe, you’ll sail the shortest distance. Figure out quickly which tack or gybe is closer to the mark, and sail on that heading as often as possible.

3. Set Up for the Lower Wind Range

Make sure your rig is tuned for the lower wind range. It’s easier to depower the boat in the puffs than it is to add power when you need it in lighter air. The Quantum Tuning Guide base is 4 knots to 8 knots, which is where we set up the first day for mostly light wind. On the second day, the wind picked up a bit, and we sailed at base and one step up from base. Refer to the Quantum J/24 Tuning Guide to learn about these steps and tuning your rig.

4. It’s All About that Backstay

If you’ve ever heard the song ‘All About that Bass,’ now you’ve got it stuck in your head, too! The backstay is your gas pedal and helps drive the boat, allowing the skipper to use less rudder and the keel to do its magic. All of this keeps the boat going fast.

When the wind changes frequently, the skipper needs to keep the boat at a consistent heel angle. On a J/24 that angle is close to flat or 5 degrees to 8 degrees heel at most. Communication and coordination from the crew calling the wind are essential. As a crew member calls a puff or, even more importantly, a lull, the skipper should prepare for the change in velocity with a backstay adjustment. Much like braking before turning in a car and accelerating out of the turn, the skipper can put on backstay just before a puff to keep the boat flat, keeping more keel in the water and using that lateral pressure to propel the boat forward. If no change is made to depower the boat and the boat heels over, the keel has less lateral pressure and the boat slides sideways instead of forward. Conversely, if a skipper doesn’t release the backstay when a lull materializes after a puff, the boat won’t have enough power and may even heel to windward, causing loss of flow over the keel, which stalls the foils and slows the boat.

To adjust the backstay effectively in these conditions, make sure it is neither too tight or too loose for the base condition or median wind range. This allows you to use the full range of what is available: loose in lightest wind and tight in the gusts. If you’re too tight from the get-go, you won’t be able to power up the boat; too loose and you’ll bottom out the bridle and end up unable to depower. You should be adjusting your backstay tension on the turnbuckles along with the turns on the shrouds ( See our tuning guide for details ).

In the end, patience is important in conditions like these. Remember that everyone is frustrated and experiencing the same challenges. Don’t get discouraged, but instead have fun, laugh at the conditions or yourself, and learn something for the next time.

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Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Published by rigworks on november 19, 2019.

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me?

From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’…

Forestay (1 or HS) – The forestay, or headstay, connects the mast to the front (bow) of the boat and keeps your mast from falling aft.

• Your forestay can be full length (masthead to deck) or fractional (1/8 to 1/4 from the top of the mast to the deck).
• Inner forestays, including staysail stays, solent stays and baby stays, connect to the mast below the main forestay and to the deck aft of the main forestay. Inner forestays allow you to hoist small inner headsails and/or provide additional stability to your rig.

Backstay (2 or BS) – The backstay runs from the mast to the back of the boat (transom) and is often adjustable to control forestay tension and the shape of the sails.

• A backstay can be either continuous (direct from mast to transom) or it may split in the lower section (7) with “legs” that ‘V’ out to the edges of the transom.
• Backstays often have hydraulic or manual tensioners built into them to increase forestay tension and bend the mast, which flattens your mainsail.
• Running backstays can be removable, adjustable, and provide additional support and tuning usually on fractional rigs. They run to the outer edges of the transom and are adjusted with each tack. The windward running back is in tension and the leeward is eased so as not to interfere with the boom and sails.
• Checkstays, useful on fractional rigs with bendy masts, are attached well below the backstay and provide aft tension to the mid panels of the mast to reduce mast bend and provide stabilization to reduce the mast from pumping.

Shrouds – Shrouds support the mast from side to side. Shrouds are either continuous or discontinuous .

Continuous rigging, common in production sailboats, means that each shroud (except the lowers) is a continuous piece of material that connects to the mast at some point, passes through the spreaders without terminating, and continues to the deck. There may be a number of continuous shrouds on your boat ( see Figure 1 ).

• Cap shrouds (3) , sometimes called uppers, extend from masthead to the chainplates at the deck.
• Intermediate shrouds (4) extend from mid-mast panel to deck.
• Lower shrouds extend from below the spreader-base to the chainplates. Fore- (5) and Aft-Lowers (6) connect to the deck either forward or aft of the cap shroud.

Discontinuous rigging, common on high performance sailboats, is a series of shorter lengths that terminate in tip cups at each spreader. The diameter of the wire/rod can be reduced in the upper sections where loads are lighter, reducing overall weight. These independent sections are referred to as V# and D# ( see Figure 2 ). For example, V1 is the lowest vertical shroud that extends from the deck to the outer tip of the first spreader. D1 is the lowest diagonal shroud that extends from the deck to the mast at the base of the first spreader. The highest section that extends from the upper spreader to the mast head may be labeled either V# or D#.

A sailboat’s standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ® , carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO.

• 1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which varies from boat to boat, 3/16” through 1/2″ being the most common range.
• 1×19 Compact Strand or Dyform wire, a more expensive alternative, is used to increase strength, reduce stretch, and minimize diameter on high performance boats such as catamarans. It is also the best alternative when replacing rod with wire.
• Rod rigging offers lower stretch, longer life expectancy, and higher breaking strength than wire. Unlike wire rope, rod is defined by its breaking strength, usually ranging from -10 to -40 (approx. 10k to 40k breaking strength), rather than diameter. So, for example, we refer to 7/16” wire (diameter) vs. -10 Rod (breaking strength).
• Composite Rigging is a popular option for racing boats. It offers comparable breaking strengths to wire and rod with a significant reduction in weight and often lower stretch.

Are your eyes crossing yet? This is probably enough for now, but stay tuned for our next ‘Ask the Rigger’. We will continue this discussion with some of the fittings/connections/hardware associated with your standing rigging.

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A Guide to the Different Parts of a Sailboat  

Table of Contents

Last Updated on November 29, 2023 by Boatsetter Team

When you use Boatsetter, you have the opportunity to choose from a myriad of different  sailboat rentals  from all over the  United States and beyond . A sailboat is a perfect way to relax on the water, either on a solo adventure or on an excursion with friends and family.

When you rent a sailboat with Boatsetter, you will have the option to book a captained sailboat to enjoy your day out on the water or book bareboat to hone your sailing skills. Either way, you may be interested in the intricacies of a sailboat and its different parts. If this sounds like you, you have come to the right place. In this article, we go in-depth about the different parts of a sailboat so that you can be more knowledgeable about whatever boat you may choose and come away from reading this feeling more confident about the whole sailing experience.

A basic sailboat is composed of at least 12 parts: the hull , the keel , the rudder , the mast, the mainsail, the boom, the kicking strap (boom vang), the topping lift, the jib, the spinnaker, the genoa, the backstay, and the forestay. Read all the way through for the definition of each sailboat part and to know  how they work.

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In short, the hull is the watertight body of the ship or boat. There are different types of hulls that a sailboat may have, and these different hulls will often affect the speed and stability of the boat.

Displacement Hulls

Most sailboats have  displacement hulls , like round bottom hulls, which move through the water by pushing water aside and are designed to cut through the water with very little propulsion. The reason these are called displacement hulls is that if you lower the boat into the water, some of the water moves out of the way to adjust for the boat, and if you could weigh the displayed water, you would find that it equals the weight of the boat, and that weight is the boat’s displacement. One thing to know about displacement hulls is that boats with these hulls are usually limited to slower speeds.

Planing Hull

Another type of hull is a planing hull. These hulls are designed to rise and glide on top of the water when enough power is supplied. When there is not enough power behind the boat, these boats often act as displacement hulls, such as when a boat is at rest. However, they climb to the surface of the water as they begin to move faster. Unlike the round bottom displacement hulls, these planing hulls will often have flat or v-shaped bottoms. These are very common with motor-driven water vessels, such as pontoon boats, but they can also be found on smaller sailboats which allow them to glide quickly over the water.

Finally, sailboats can differ depending on the number of hulls that they have. There are three options: monohulls (one hull), catamarans (two hulls), and trimarans (three hulls).

Monohulls , which have only a single hull, will usually be the typical round bottom displacement hull or occasionally the flat bottomed or v-shaped planning hull. Catamarans have two hulls with a deck or a trampoline in between, with the extra hulls providing increased stability. Finally, trimarans have three hulls — a main hull in the middle and two side hulls used for stability. These trimarans have gained popularity because of their excellent stability and ability to go at high speeds.

When evaluating a sailboat , it is important to pay attention to the type of hull that the boat has because the type of hull a sailboat has can drastically change the sailing experience, especially when it comes to stability and speed.

All sailboats have a keel, a flat blade sticking down into the water from the sailboat’s hull bottom. It has several functions: it provides counterbalance, life, controls sideways movement, holds the boat’s ballast , and helps prevent the boat from capsizing. When a boat leans from one side to the other, the keel and its ballast counteract the movement and prevent the boat from completely tipping over.

As with hulls, there are a number of different types of keels, though the two most common types of keels on recreational sailboats are the full keel or the fin keel. A full keel is larger than a fin keel and is much more stable. The full keel is generally half or more of the length of the sailboat. However, it is much slower than the fin keel. A fin keel, which is smaller than the full keel, offers less water resistance and therefore affords higher speeds.

A more recent feature on sailboats is the “winged keel,” which is short and shallow but carries a lot of weight in two “wings” that run sideways from the keel’s main part. Another more recent invention in sailing is the concept of the canting keels, which are designed to move the weight at the bottom of the sailboat to the upwind side. This invention allows the boat to carry more sails.

The Rudder 

A rudder is the primary control surface used to steer a sailboat. A rudder is a vertical blade that is either attached to the flat surface of the boat’s stern (the back of the boat) or under the boat. The rudder works by deflecting water flow. When the person steering the boat turns the rudder, the water strikes it with increased force on one side and decreased force on the other, turning the boat in the direction of lower pressure.

On most smaller sailboats, the helmsman — the person steering the boat — uses a “ tiller ” to turn the rudder. The “tiller” is a stick made of wood or some type of metal attached to the top of the rudder. However, larger boats will generally use a wheel to steer the rudder since it provides greater leverage for turning the rudder, necessary for larger boats’ weight and water resistance.

The mast of a sailboat is a tall vertical pole that supports the sails. Larger ships often have multiple masts. The different types of masts are as follows:

(1)  The Foremast  — This is the first mast near the bow (front) of the boat, and it is the mast that is before the mainmast.

(2)  The Mainmast  — This is the tallest mast, usually located near the ship’s center.

(3)  The Mizzen mast —  This is the third mast closest to the stern (back), immediately in the back of the mainmast. It is always shorter than the mainmast and is typically shorter than the foremast.

The Main Sail

The mainsail is the principal sail on a sailboat, and it is set on the backside of the mainmast. It is the main source that propels the boat windward.

A boom is a spar (a pole made of wood or some other type of lightweight metal) along the bottom of a fore-and-aft rigged sail, which greatly improves the control of the angle and the shape of the sail, making it an indispensable tool for the navigation of the boat by controlling the sailes. The boom’s primary action is to keep the foot (bottom) of the sail flatter when the sail angle is away from the centerline of the sailboat.

The Kicking Strap (Boom Vang)

The boom vang is the line or piston system on a sailboat used to exert a downward force on the boom, enabling one to control the sail’s shape. The vang typically runs from the base of the mast to a point about a third of the way out the boom. It holds the boom down, enabling it to flatten the mainsail.

The Topping Lift

The topping lift is a line that is a part of the rigging on a sailboat, which applies an upward force on a spar (a pole) or a boom. Topping lifts are also used to hold a boom up when it’s sail is lowered. This line runs from the free end of the boom forward to the top of the mast. The line may run over a block at the top of the mast and down the deck to allow it to be adjusted.

A jib is a triangular staysail set ahead of the foremost mast of a sailboat. Its tack is fixed to the bowsprit, the bow, or the deck between the bowsprit and the foremost mast. Jibs and spinnakers are the two main types of headsails on modern boats.

The Spinnaker

A spinnaker is a type of sail designed specifically for sailing off the wind from a reaching downwind course. The spinnaker fills up with wind and balloons out in front of the sailboat when it is deployed. This maneuver is called “flying.” The spinnaker is constructed of very lightweight material, such a nylon fabric and on many sailing vessels, it is very brightly colored.

Another name for the spinnaker is the “chute” because it often resembles a parachute, both in the material it is constructed from and its appearance when it is full of wind.

People often use the term genoa and jib as if they were the same thing, but there is a marked difference between these two types of sails. A job is no larger than a foretriangle, the triangular area formed by the mast, the deck or bowsprit, and the forestay. On the other hand, a genoa is larger than the jib, with part of the sail going past the mast and overlapping the mainsail. These two sails, however, serve very similar purposes.

The Backstay

The backstay is a standing rigging that runs from the mast to the transom (the vertical section at the back of the boat), counteracting the forestay and the jib. The backstay is an important sail trip, control and directly affects the mainsail’s shape and the headsail.

There are two general categories of backstays:

1) A permanent backstay is attached to the top of the mast and may or may not be readily adjustable.

2) A running backstay is attached about two-thirds up the mast and sometimes at multiple locations along the mast. Most modern sailboats will have a permanent backstay, and some will have permanent backstays combined with a running backstay.

The Forestay

A forestay is a piece of standing rigging that keeps the mast from falling backward. It is attached at the very top of the mast, or at certain points near the top of the mast, with the other end of the forestay being attached to the bow (the front of the boat). Often a sail, such as a jib or a genoa, is attached to the forestay.

A forestay might be made from stainless steel wire, stainless steel rod or carbon rod, or galvanized wire or natural fibers.

Parts of a sail

Sails are vital for sailboats, made up of complex parts that improve performance and maneuverability. In this section, we’ll  take a closer look at the different parts of that make up the sails. 

Luff – The luff is a vertical sail part that maintains its shape and generates lift by interacting with the wind. It attaches securely with a bolt rope or luff tape for easy hoisting.

Leech – The leech controls air flow and reduces turbulence. Battens or leech lines are used to maintain shape and prevent fluttering.

Foot – The foot of a sail connects the luff and leech at the bottom edge. It helps define the sail’s shape and area. The outhaul is used to adjust its tension and shape.

Head – The sail’s head is where the luff and leech meet. It has a reinforced section for attaching the halyard to raise the sail.

Battens -The b attens are placed horizontally in sail pockets to maintain shape and optimize performance in varying wind conditions. They provide structural support from luff to leech.

Telltales – Sailors use telltales to adjust sail trim and ensure optimal performance.

Clew – The clew is important for shaping the sail and connecting the sheet, which regulates the angle and tension, producing energy. It’s located at the lower back corner of the sail.

Sailing is a favorite pastime for millions of Americans across the country. For some, there is nothing better than gliding across the water propelled by nothing more than the natural force of the wind alone. For both experienced and non-experienced sailors alike, Boatsetter is the perfect place to get your ideal sailboat rental from the mouthwatering Florida keys to the  crystal blue waters of the Caribbean .

Smaller sailing boats are perfect for a single day out on the water, either by yourself or with friends and family. In comparison, larger sailing boats and sailing yachts can allow you days of luxury on longer excursions full of adventure and luxury.

Whatever your sailing dreams are, it is always good to know, for both the experienced sailor and the novice, all about the sailboat’s different parts. In this article, we learned all about the boat’s hull, the keel, the rudder, the mast, the mainsail, the boom, the kicking strap (boom vang), the topping lift, the jib, the spinnaker, the genoa, the backstay, and the forestay, which make up the basic parts of any sailboat you might find yourself on.

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What is a Sailboat Stay?

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

A sailboat stay is a cable or line that supports the mast. Stays bear a significant portion of the mast load.

Stays are a significant part of a sailboat's standing rigging, and they're essential for safe sailing. Stays support the mast and bear the stress of the wind and the sails. Losing a stay is a serious problem at sea, which is why it's essential to keep your stays in good condition.

Table of contents

‍ How to Identify Sailboat Stays

Sailboat stays connected to the top of the mast to the deck of the sailboat. Stays stabilize the mast in the forward and aft directions. Stays are typically mounted to the very front of the bow and the rearmost part of the stern.

Sailboat Forestay

The forestay connects the top of the mast to the bow of the boat. The forestay also serves an additional purpose—the jib sail luff mounts to the forestay. In fact, the jib is hoisted up and down the forestay as if it were a mast.

Boats equipped with roller furlings utilize spindles at the top and base of the forestay. The spindles rotate to furl and unfurl the jib. Roller furlings maintain the structural integrity of a standard forestay.

Sailboat Backstay

Backstays aren't as multifunctional as forestays. The backstay runs from the top of the mast (opposite the forestay) to the stern of the sailing vessel, and it balances the force exerted by the forestay. Together, the forestay and the backstay keep the mast upright under load.

Sailboat Stay vs. Shroud

Stays and shrouds are often confused, as they essentially do the same thing (just in different places). Stays are only located on the bow and stern of the vessel—that's fore and aft. Shrouds run from the port and starboard side of the hull or deck to the top of the mast.

Best Sailboat Stay Materials

Traditional sailboat stays were made of rope and organic line. These materials worked fine for thousands of years, and they still do today. However, rope has limitations that modern sailboat stays don't.

For one, traditional rope is organic and prone to decay. It also stretches, which can throw off the balance of the mast and cause serious problems. Other materials, such as stainless steel, are more ideal for the modern world.

Most modern fiberglass sailboats use stainless steel stays. Stainless stays are made of strong woven stainless steel cable, which resists corrosion and stress. Stainless cables are also easy to adjust.

Why are Stays Important?

Stays keep the mast from collapsing. Typical sailboats have lightweight hollow aluminum masts. Alone, these thin towering poles could never hope to withstand the stress of a fully-deployed sail plan. More often than not, unstayed masts of any material fail rapidly under sail.

When properly adjusted, stays transfer the force of the wind from the thin and fragile mast to the deck or the hull. They distribute the power of the wind over a wider area and onto materials that can handle it. The mast alone simply provides a tall place to attach the head of the sail, along with a bit of structural support.

Sailboat Chain Plates

Sailboat stays need a strong mounting point to handle the immense forces they endure. Stays mount to the deck on chainplates, which further distribute force to support the load.

Chainplates are heavy steel mounting brackets that typically come with two pieces. One plate mounts on top of the deck and connects to the stay. The other plate mounts on the underside of the deck directly beneath the top plate, and the two-bolt together.

Mast Stay Mounting

Stays mount to the mast in several ways depending on the vessel and the mast material. On aluminum masts, stays often mount to a type of chain plate called a "tang." A tang consists of a bracket and a hole for a connecting link. Aluminum masts also use simple U-bolts for mounting stays.

Wooden masts don't hold up to traditional brackets as well as aluminum. A simple u-bolt or flat bolt-on bracket might tear right out. As a result, wooden masts often use special collars with mounting rings on each side. These collars are typically made of brass or stainless steel.

Sailboat Stays on Common Rigs

Stays on a Bermuda-rigged sailboat are critical. Bermuda rigs use a triangular mainsail . Triangular sails spread their sail area vertically, which necessitates a tall mast.

Bermuda rig masts are often thin, hollow, and made of lightweight material like aluminum to avoid making the boat top-heavy. As a result, stays, and shrouds are of critical importance on a Bermuda rig.

Traditional gaff-rigged sail plans don't suffer as much from this issue. Gaff rigs use a four-pointed mainsail. This sail has a peak that's taller than the head and sometimes taller than the mast.

Gaff-rigged cutters, sloops, schooners, and other vessels use comparatively shorter and heavier masts, which are less likely to collapse under stress. These vessels still need stays and shrouds, but their stronger masts tend to be more forgiving in unlucky situations.

How to Adjust Sailboat Stays

Sailboat stays and shrouds must be checked and adjusted from time to time, as even the strongest stainless steel cable stretches out of spec. Sailboats must be in the water when adjusting stays. Here's the best way to keep the proper tension on your stays.

Loosen the Stays

Start by loosening the forestay and backstay. Try to do this evenly, as it'll reduce the stress on the mast. Locate the turnbuckles and loosen them carefully.

Match the Turnbuckle Threads

Before tightening the turnbuckle again, make sure the top and bottom threads protrude the same amount. This reduces the chance of failure and allows you to equally adjust the stay in both directions.

Center the Mast

Make sure the mast is centered on its own. If it's not, carefully take up the slack in the direction you want it to go. Once the mast is lined up properly, it's time to tighten both turnbuckles again.

Tighten the Turnbuckles

Tighten the turnbuckles as evenly as possible. Periodically monitor the direction of the mast and make sure you aren't pulling it too far in a single direction.

Determine the Proper Stay Pressure

This step is particularly important, as stays must be tightened within a specific pressure range to work properly. The tension on a sailboat stay ranges from a few hundred pounds to several tons, so it's essential to determine the correct number ahead of time. Use an adjuster to monitor the tension.

What to Do if you Lose a Stay

Thankfully, catastrophic stay and shroud failures are relatively rare at sea. Losing a mast stay is among the worst things that can happen on a sailboat, especially when far from shore.

The stay itself can snap with tremendous force and cause injury or damage. If it doesn't hurt anyone, it'll certainly put the mast at risk of collapsing. In fact, if you lose a stay, your mast will probably collapse if stressed.

However, many sailors who lost a forestay or backstay managed to keep their mast in one piece using a halyard. In the absence of a replacement stay, any strong rope can offer some level of protection against dismasting .

How to Prevent a Stay Failure

Maintenance and prevention is the best way to avoid a catastrophic stay failure. Generally speaking, the complete failure of a stay usually happens in hazardous weather conditions or when there's something seriously wrong with the boat.

Stays sometimes fail because of manufacturing defects, but it's often due to improper tension, stripped threads, or aging cable that hasn't been replaced. Regular maintenance can prevent most of these issues.

Check the chainplates regularly, as they can corrode quietly with little warning. The deck below the chainplates should also be inspected for signs of rot or water leakage.

When to Replace Standing Rigging

Replace your stays and shrouds at least once every ten years, and don't hesitate to do it sooner if you see any signs of corrosion or fraying. Having reliable standing rigging is always worth the added expense.

Choosing a high-quality stay cable is essential, as installing substandard stays is akin to playing with fire. Your boat will thank you for it, and it'll be easier to tune your stays for maximum performance.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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What to do when the backstay breaks?

Margriet Kapteyn 1st September 2017 Underway Leave a Comment

Sunday the 13th of August we left Porto Colom for the south of Mallorca. At first there wasn’t much wind so we engined. While I was inside working on my laptop, I suddenly heard some noise: Jon had caught a fish! Actually 2 at the same time, and shortly after another 3. Keeping the big ones and releasing the little ones, within 30 minutes we had 5 nice sized mackerels in our fridge and we decided that was sufficient for our dinner, so we took the lines back in. The wind picked up and around lunchtime we were able to put the sails out. Because we were going downwind we poled out the jib sail with the spinnaker pole.

That’s dinner sorted

Oh oh, something is not right!

Around 3pm we arrived at Punta Salinas, the Southern tip of Mallorca. I was on the helm turning starboard to go west and while Jon was sorting out the spinnaker pole I suddenly noticed the block and multipliers from the backstay collapsing in a heap next to me. Miraculously they had missed the puppy who was sitting beside me on the cockpit seat. It took me 1 second to realise that the backstay had broken and it took me another 2 seconds to remember the word ‘backstay’. As soon as I figured it out I shouted: “Babe, the backstay is gone!”Without either of us understanding exactly what had happened, but both of us realising this was bad and we had to do something, Jon jumped into action and ordered me to steer into the wind while he rolled in the jib. I turned the engine on while he pulled the mainsheet to the center and together we lowered the main. Jon took the main halyard (the line that normally holds the mainsail up) to the stern and connected it to the hard point on the stern so this would act as a temporary backstay.

The broken block: the top of the metal eye had broken off

Luckily we had the sun cover up between our bimini and the spray hood so the culprit of it all, the corroded block, had fallen on this cover. If we had left the suncover rolled up, the force of it breaking and subsequently falling down could have caused some serious damage. There’s always an upside to everything!

What is the backstay??

The backstay is kind of a big deal. It is the line (or cable in our case) that runs from the top of the mast to the stern of the boat. It is the counterpart of the forestay, which runs from the top of the mast to the bow of the boat; the two stays together with the shrouds, on either sides of the mast, form the standing rigging. The main function of the standing rigging is to support the mast –  quite an important job. A secondary function of the backstay is to allow the mast to be tuned whilst sailing: you can bend it more backwards or forwards to counteract the force of the sails. In order to do this, the backstay is divided into several parts, so you can pull it in or let it out without too much risk and without using too much force. For this reason our backstay consists of 2 blocks (the second one is not clearly visible in the picture below) and a multiplier.

Our backstay configuration

Now, we replaced all of our standing rigging last winter because the previous rigging was more than 20 years old and our insurance would not insure us for a de-masting unless we replaced it. While all the cables were being replaced, we were told that the blocks that were used by the backstay were of excellent quality and “would probably outlast the hull” so we did not replace those. Perhaps a trained eye could have spotted the metal corrosion on the block (block 1 in the picture above), but since it’s 3 meters up in the air it’s not something you check regularly.

What to do next?

The cable that was connected to the broken block and the top of the mast was now swinging loose around the mast. We had to tie it down, but that was easier said than done because it was more than 3 meters up from the deck. Jon fiddled around with the boathook and eventually managed to get a slipknot around the shackle at the end of the cable and tied it down to the boom.

Given (luckily) we were in very light winds there was little danger of our mast actually collapsing once we stabilised it however you definitely don’t want to continue sailing or in any way or put extra pressure on the mast. We had two options: we could continue to where we were going: a yet to be decided anchorage on the south of the island or we could go back to Porto Colom. It didn’t take us long to decide to turn around and head back up north to Porto Colom. We knew this was a sheltered anchorage with good holding and lots of space. We also knew there was a car rental, and it would only take us an hour to get to the chandlery in Palma to get a new block. The three hour trip back to Porto Colom was a little bit tense as we were now going into the wind and into the waves, without our backstay. Suffice to say we were quite relieved when had the anchor down again in Porto Colom.

‘Just’ getting a new block

We decided to take a rest on Monday, so on Tuesday Jon headed up to Palma in a rental car while I stayed at the boat to do some work. When he arrived at the chandlery, it was closed though: it was a bloody bank holiday! We should have known better as Spain has bank holidays at the most unusual days (apart from national holidays there are also often provincial and local holidays), but we could barely remember what day of the week it was most days so let alone considering to check for the Assumption of Mary! No major harm done though (except the expense of hiring the car), and on Wednesday off Jon went back to try again. Mission completed: he returned with 2 brand new blocks and a new multiplier mechanism.

2 new blocks + multiplier system + shackles

On attempting to fit everything back together on Thursday there was one problem: the cable that had to be fed through the block had a large ring on each end, which meant it did’t fit. If only the block could be opened up – like the old one – but alas, that was not the case. So on Friday we were off to Palma once again to find out if we could change it for a different block that could be opened. Well, such a block did exist but the price we were quoted for it was over € 1000! Thankfully the lady serving us in the chandlery was very helpful and she suggested to re-use the old block (as that could be opened) but replace the top metal part that had broken with the part from the new block. This turned out a fantastic idea, and in the end it cost us less than € 100 to fix the problem.

A week later than planned we ventured out again to explore the south side of Mallorca. This time with a very solid backstay, which, regardlessly, we watched like hawks for hours. If your backstay goes, it could not have been at better circumstances then when it did for us: in calm weather, near the shore, with relatively easy access to replacement parts. Still, it’s one of those heart-stopping moments you can do without.

New second block + multiplier in place

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Split back stay: pros and cons

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This is a bit theoretical issue at this point, but I will be facing it down the road, so please bear with me. When I finally buy a boat for an Atlantic crossing (most likely Bristol 34) I will be replacing the standing rigging and chainplates, as well as installing a windvane. It would make sense to install a split back stay at that time. But what are the pros and cons of a split back stay, besides easier access to windvane and higher cost? Your help is always greatly appreciated.  

Seems to me disadvantages would be more potential points of failure, and ensuring new chainplates are adequate. Depending on cockpit layout the lower portions may interfere with helm seating positions where the original single did not. Advantages would include, as you've mentioned, improved vane access and simple, inexpensive tension adjustment options.  

Hmmm... I would think that a split back stay would be stronger, as the loads get more distributed. Helm seating positions is a very good point. Can you elaborate on the tension adjustments?  

From a structural view, there's really no true advantage for split backstays on a sloop, as running backstays are more 'versatile' in the function of applying additional 'helper' stress to the forestay; and, the runners are just as redundant as the second backstay. With two backstays its easier to overload and then break a forestay. For cutter rigs, the TWO backstays better 'react' with the two stays forward of the mast - forestay and headstay; although and again in that function, runners are better and more versatile in rigging 'stress' (sag) balancing - but this is in comparison to inefficient 'auxiliary stays' found on cutter rigs - IMO. I say that besides providing a redundant safety function, 'runners' have become my favorite stays for making micro-adjustments to rig tension and headsail (sag) shape while on-the-fly?  

RichH said: From a structural view, there's really no true advantage for split backstays on a sloop, as running backstays are more 'versatile' in the function of applying additional 'helper' stress to the forestay; and, the runners are just as redundant as the second backstay. With two backstays its easier to overload and then break a forestay. For cutter rigs, the TWO backstays better 'react' with the two stays forward of the mast - forestay and headstay; although and again in that function, runners are better and more versatile in rigging 'stress' (sag) balancing - but this is in comparison to inefficient 'auxiliary stays' found on cutter rigs - IMO. I say that besides providing a redundant safety function, 'runners' have become my favorite stays for making micro-adjustments to rig tension and headsail (sag) shape while on-the-fly? Click to expand...

Great picture. Thanks. In real life is such tension adjustment a visual thing, or do you actually measure it? Yes, chainplate attachment would have to be done properly. I was thinking of using SS plates bolted to the hull on the outside. That part of the hull is usually quite thick and solid. I would most likely use a commercial rigger to do the whole thing.  

Other common arraignment is block on backstay with 1x19 starting at one aft corner of boat,then going up through the block and down to other aft corner of boat. Usually you have a hydraulic ram at one of the inferior attachments to allow varied backstay tension. Usually over time you learn how to tension for different points of sail, different jibs, different wind speeds. Hydraulic ram is calibrated Boats are different. We have a masthead sloop with Solent. We have running back stays. The running backstays are never used except on passage. They are too much a PIA when tacking/gybing. They are used to tension inner for stay the Solent lives on when on passage or in storms or persistent strong winds to prevent mast pumping.  

krisscross said: When I finally buy a boat for an Atlantic crossing (most likely Bristol 34) I will be replacing the standing rigging and chainplates, as well as installing a windvane. It would make sense to install a split back stay at that time. But what are the pros and cons of a split back stay, besides easier access to windvane and higher cost? Click to expand...

That makes a lot of sense, Jon. Much appreciated. No, I have not used a windvane before, so it is all a very important primer for me. The plan is for a crew of 2 and have an auto-pilot, but being able to use the self steering vane is high on my list.  

Have lower portion of backstay split. Have had no issue with my SSB. In fact like connection to antenna ( upper portion of backstay) being above the Bimini . Think it's less likely to be messed with, is above the salt spray and in a protected spot. I'm with hypeer on this one. Perhaps if I had a fractional sloop or a square head main I'd feel differently. Think two full backstays create unnecessary windage and complexity. But perhaps belt and suspenders if both are spec'd to carry the full load. Think on masthead sloops having runners is good addition support for the stick, allow tensioning inner jib or Solent and prevent pumping. But on most cruising boats the stick is stiff, has required prebend and doesn't have winches dedicated for runners. We do set ours up when running in a fresh breeze or above and when the storm jib baby stay goes up for passage. Otherwise they sit by the shrouds ( have their own attachment point there). But if OP decides to not go with split backstay think he should still have some way to adjust tension of whatever backstay he ends up with. Losing ability to tension fore stay via backstay and flatten main with mast bend is too much to lose even for a cruiser.  

Design,build install hyfield levers for running backs is a worthy addition and so easy to use or not use as conditions require. Most big gaffers use them as there is no backstay.  

Excellent review Richmand much appreciated. One would further note when you apply additional backstay tension you increase tension on the head stay but decrease tension on the fore stay. This decreases sag if you are flying a genny but increases sag if you are flying the Solent. We have found it necessary to adjust stay tensions several times a year depending are where we are. We find putting in more tension in the Solent stay then the genny stay necessary wherever we are. Given constructed prebend and nature of shrouds this is not a problem. We do use runners to prevent pumping but also find when there are long boards we tension the runner to leeward just before a tack by hand. When it then becomes the windward after the tack and you ease the other one jib shape is good.  

I'm wondering, based on these comments, and esp on a boat like the Outbound, whether adding a hydraulic adjuster to the solent wouldn't be a good way to tweak things depending on conditions..  

Huge plus for the Solent is having a sail that is appropriately sized for winds common in trades and offshore. Makes less sense for boat to be used exclusively in coastal environs if overwhelmingly most common working sail is Genoa. Of course your basic premise is wrong as you would never fly the genny and Solent together except ddw on dual poles. We don't do that either using parasailor or wing and wing. But if we did pole both out when going ddw some sag is a good not bad thing on that point of sail. Solent make great sense for a cruising boat. We very rarely gybe the Genoa. If persistent light air fly parasailor. Upwind if short tacking fly the Solent as it's the front third doing most of the work lose very little and point wonderfully so vmg is excellent. Other big advantage of Solent is as center of effort shifts when wind speeds increase sail plan remains balanced. Decades ago it was thought cutter was ideal for cruising boat as centers of effort move toward mast as sail plan shorten. Now thought benefit of this thinking is not borne out. Rather Solent or scutter a la Shannons actually preferable. That's why for last twenty odd years variants of Solent most common on ocean boats even short handed racers. Finally when traveling unless the dinghy is going to be launched frequently ( meaning near daily) it lives on the fore deck. It's real easy to put it there with a Solent rig. Unless you have end of boom sheeting or a really large boat it's harder to do when that spot is gone. Don't like leaving dinghy on the davits except when coastal. Just curious have you ever cruised with a Solent rig. I've had cape dories and a Tayana with cutter rigs. I would never go back to a cutter from a Solent. If a rich uncle died and then I could afford Bobs services it would probably be another Solent although I'm started to rethink my opinion about the newest fractional rigged boats done right for ocean service not the rig you see on many current production boats.  

Hi would note Bob is building four beautiful cutters which I would love to own. Think those boats are exceptional in many regards.  

.... a nice 'evolution'. But I often wonder if the consideration STEEL vs. FIBERGLASS construction would be the way to go. Could someone recommend such a discussion? <gag>. :-o  

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• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Harken Boasts Best Overall Quality Among Backstay Adjusters

Others we like are the wichard ratcheting model and for sheer value, the c. sherman johnson adjusters..

In these times when everyone seems interested in tight tacking angles, a taut forestay is the ticket to ride.

And to create a taut forestay you need an equally hard-working backstay.

If youre a serious racer, the forestay-backstay combination is needed to bend the mast to change the mainsail shape. If youre a club racer or cruiser, its to take most of that awful sag out of the jibs luff.

To ease off the tension-when on other points of sailing or to make it easier to furl up the jib-you need a backstay whose length can be readily changed.

Further, one of the most important functions of any backstay adjuster is to ease the strain on the rig and boat when at anchor, when docked or when hauled-for repairs or for seasonal lay-up. Leaving a boat unnecessarily burdened with extreme tension in the standing rigging is like leaving the Kentucky Derby winner saddled for a week.

The quickest way to pump up or release the pressure in the triangles made by the backstay, the mast, the forestay and the boat is with a hydraulic pump. Theyre costly. Well deal with them in a subsequent report.

For now, weve assembled all the mechanical backstay adjusters we could find. All sizes. All shapes. Theyre not cheap, mostly because they must be strong and foolproof.

Included in the international collection are backstay contraptions from Dermac, Harken, Hasselfors, Johnson, R.D.M. Sparcraft, Spinlock and Wichard. (An English firm, Barton, and an Australian company, Ronstan, used to make backstay adjusters but have dropped out of the competition.)

These seven devices benefit from a single engineering approach. Each utilizes the immense power of simple threads cranked with a lever of some sort. What results is nothing more than a compact, circular version of the Egyptians inclined plane, which enabled them to build pyramids.

In alphabetical order, here are the choices.

Dermac The French-made Dermac is a tapered chunk of polished stainless steel with T-toggled shackles at both ends.

It has two fold-up, arc-like handles made of black powder-coated aluminum. Tension on the handles is via nylon washers-not the best, but they can be tightened by taking up on the handles axles.

Because Dermac uses 10 threads per inch on the rod, it will extend or retract an inch quicker than, for instance, will the Harken, which has more threads. However, the load will be heavier.

The stainless threaded rod comes out of the body covered with black grease, which is unsightly and could collect dirt, carrying it back inside. Worse, perhaps, someone who leans against it or grabs for a handhold would not be pleased.

The welds attaching the T-toggles to the stainless body are neither artistic nor as mechanically well done as they could be. However, someone thought to drill a drain hole in the bottle toggle.

The shackles are made of stainless plate rather than forged and the finish on the shackles is poor. The ends of the clevis pins are quite rough, a far cry from the fine surface finishing and polishing of Wichard. (A good mirror finish on stainless is not just cosmetic; its a vital part of the anti-corrosion protection.)

There are three entirely different sizes of Dermacs. The one for 7/16″ clevis pins lists for $450. The 1/2″ is $490. The 5/8″ is $725. The prices are list and should be about a third less at discount if ordered through West Marine or Boat/U.S.

Harken As with virtually all Harken gear, the Harken backstay adjuster is a quality piece of work.

Made in Italy by Barbarossa (which Harken owns), it comes in four sizes (pin sizes from 1/2″ to 3/4″) and standard strokes from 5-1/2″ to 8-11/16″, with custom lengths available in the two larger models.

The 7/16″ and 1/2″ pin models have fold-down handles. Because of the fine threads, youll be turning these handles about 20 times per inch of linear adjustment. Thats a lot of turning. The handles stay folded down and store in the up position with good springs that eliminate any annoying rattles.

The larger ones operate with a standard winch handle, which is much more convenient if you have the room to swing the handle.

The Harkens have O-rings at the top to keep water out of the sealed worm tube. The rod that extends is clean.

Made largely of solid stainless and chromed bronze-with bronze worm gears, bronze thread drives and greased bearings on moving parts-the Harkens are heavy equipment. They range in weight from nearly 4 pounds to more than 8 pounds.

Breaking strength? Forget it. Youll never break one of these.

Considering the perfectionist (and massive) approach, the Harkens are not badly priced, considering that they discount about 30% to $650 to about $1,600.

Hasselfors Made in Sweden, the Hasselfors backstay adjuster comes in one model, two sizes-one with almost a 10″ throw, the other with 15-3/4″.

Both sizes, made for 13 mm clevis pins, have a breaking strength of 14,333 pounds.

Both are adjusted with a standard winch handle powering a worm gear. The driven gear is bronze, the driver is stainless with needle bearings.

Because the worm has seven turns per inch, and is cranked with a continuous-motion winch handle, the Hasselfors is the second quickest to retract or extend.

The entire mechanism, along with the threaded rod, is nicely encased in anodized aluminum tubing regularly used by Hasselfors to cover turnbuckles. Plastic caps keep the aluminum from touching the stainless.

Although somewhat semi-custom, the Hasselfors adjusters are not very expensive. The large model, which has the greatest throw of any stock backstay adjuster, lists for $630

Johnson If Harken is elegance, C. Sherman Johnson is working man tough.

The Connecticut company buys good stainless steel, uses the steel wisely with what-you-see-is-what-you-get engineering and doesn’t have to build into its budget much, if any, money for warranty work.

Johnson backstay adjusters, for pin sizes ranging from 1/4″ to 5/8″, are basically turnbuckles (for which Johnson is noted) with locking handles. They have T-toggles and heavy shackles at both ends. The bronze toggle heads are threaded on 5/8″ bronze rods to prevent any galling.

The adjuster is operated with stainless steel fold-out handles that are stamped and bent in a C section. The C shape engages a large stainless nut on the top of the barrel to lock the turnbuckles in a simple, foolproof manner.

The handles work surprisingly well and, with 18 threads per inch on the larger models, the adjuster is on a par for power with Harken.

Because of the thrifty engineering, the powerful Johnson adjusters are relatively light in weight, which along with their reasonable cost adds to their allure.

For comparison, a Harken adjuster for 3/8″ wire, a 5/8″ pin and a breaking strength of 16,755 pounds weighs nearly 10 pounds. It has a stroke of 7″. It costs more than $1,000.

A Johnson of similar specifications weighs 3 pounds, 12 ounces and costs $220. The Johnsons downside: The stroke is 6″ and it doesn’t shine.

R.D.M. Sparcraft Imported from France by Charleston Spars in Charlotte, North Carolina, the R.D.M. adjusters are meant for either backstays or inner forestays. For the latter, a Wichard shackle replaces the standard jaws.

The R.D.M. adjusters have stainless bodies, toggles and worm screws. The worm drive is about 6-1/2 threads per inch, making this the fastest drive unit of all. For quick adjustments, thats good. However, it also means that it will be much more difficult to crank in the upper levels of tension.

The nut body (the housing that advances or retracts the worm) is made of bronze, which is cotter-pinned to a black-anodized aluminum ring to which the fold-down arms (spring-loaded when stored) are attached. The aluminum ring is so indifferently made that one cranking arm comes down perpendicular to the shaft, but the other stops about 10 or 12 short of perpendicular.

On the model examined, the not-very-smooth weld affixing the toggle to the worm screw already was showing the telltale brown color of what appears to be corrosion.

The R.D.M. adjusters come in two sizes-for 3/8″ and 1/2″ pins.

They list for $310 to $514.

Spinlock The little Spinlock backstay adjuster in our collection is from a small British firm known for its hiking sticks and line-handling hardware (including a new and very unusual rope clutch that we will be examining in a few weeks).

The Spinlock adjusters, intended for boats in classes like the J/24, Melges 24 and Etchells, are two-handle devices like the Johnson discussed above. Theyre meant for all stays and shrouds, not just backstays. They have about a 3″ throw but the 22-per-inch threads mean youll be turning 22 times to take up or ease an inch.

Among the refinements on the Spinlocks are numbers (from 0 to 65 mm) laser-etched on the machined stainless barrel to permit repeatable changes (as on Ronstans Sealoc turnbuckles, which also can be fitted with a wrench-like handle).

A unique Spinlock touch is the articulated jaw base to take up any misalignment or sag. It makes a toggle unnecessary. The take-up collar is bronze, as it should be, to avoid the galling that can occur when the threads on both the stud and barrel are stainless.

Spinlock very properly is quick to advise that when used on backstays, care should be taken as these turnbuckles have no end stop.

The Spinlocks currently come in three sizes-for 4 mm, 5 mm wire and 3/16″ wire, to which it is intended that the adjusters be swaged.

With the marked calibrations and the locking handle, the Spinlocks would be great to have on all stays and shrouds of any small boat when its time to step and tune the mast. Great except that they cost $150 a shot vs. about $20 or $30 for a standard jaw-swage turnbuckle. For a boat with uppers and lowers, the total cost would be about $900 worth of Spinlocks instead of $150 for standard turnbuckles.

Wichard Widely known for its shackles, Wichard makes two basic adjusters.

One version, for 1/4″, 9/32″ and 5/16″ wire, is available with either a wheel adjuster or a single fold-up lever. A larger version with a ratcheting handle, for up to 3/8″ wire, comes in two lengths. Except for the very , which takes a 5/8″ pin, all take 1/2″ pins, which seems like a good idea.

The wheelie version is popular and discounts for about $316. It has a 6-1/4″ black-anodized wheel turning against a bronze collar to adjust the stainless threaded rod and even an arrow to tell the operator which is the tensioning direction. The handle version, which you use as a wrench, slipping it on and off the turning nut, has a rubber grip and stows in a rubber clamp.

Both have T-toggles beautifully welded on the stainless rod and excellent shackles.

On each model, the stainless barrel has a cut-out slot with stamped numbers, ranging from 0 to 160 mm, and a handy red indicator button. Its very well done.

The large Wichards have good throws-17-5/16″ x 26″ and 19-7/8″ x 29-3/4″-and have excellent switchable ratchet mechanisms that, along with a 12-to-the-inch threaded rod, make them the easiest of all to adjust.

The Wichards, with breaking strengths right up to or slightly exceeding the equivalent Harken and Johnson counterparts, discount to $1,160 for the large model and $620 for the smaller version.

Bottom Line The word contraptions was used early on in this report to describe these devices. Thats unfair, if the word has for you a negative connotation. All of these devices are well made, as they must be. A backstay and all parts thereto must not fail.

With the Spinlocks in a separate category, our view of the larger backstay adjusters has to do with ease of operation, weight and finish and appearance.

For ease of operation, the winch-handled Harkens and quick-adjusting Hasselfors are excellent, but our choice would be the single-lever, ratchet-model Wichard, followed by the two-handled Harken.

For light weight, the Johnson is the clear standout.

For finish and appearance, wed rank them Harken, Wichard and Dermac.

Best overall are the smooth-operating Harkens, but theyre heavy-both in weight and in price.

Firm holder of the weight/price middle ground is Wichard, which makes good gear-especially the single-handle ratchet models.

The Best Buy by a mile and a quarter is the two-handle Johnson.

Contacts- Dermac, Marinox, 401 NE 8th St., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304. 800/379-3330. Harken, 1251 E. Wisconsin Ave., Pewaukee, WI 53072. 414/691-3320. Hasselfors, Selden Mast, Inc., 4668 Franchise St., N. Charleston, SC 29418. 800/571-0440. Johnson, C. Sherman Johnson Co., Inc., Industrial Park, East Haddam, CT 06423. 860/873-8697. R.D.M. Sparcraft, Charleston Spar, 3901 Pine Grove Circle, Charlotte, NC 28206. 704/597-1502. Spinlock, Maritime Supply LLC, 42 Grandview Terrace, Essex, CT 06426. 860/767-0468. Wichard, 507 Hopmeadow St., Simsbury, CT 06070. 860/651-8406.

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attach flag to backstay

• Thread starter pupluv
• Start date Feb 21, 2014
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

What's the best way to attach a flag to the backstay so it flies well?  

I use the DuBro flag clips http://shop.proseriesfishing.com/p/flag-clips?pp=12 I can only get my 3'x5' Calico Jack pirate flag as far up as I can reach, or as far as I feel like trying to push it up with my whisker pole. Eventually the clips work their way together as the flag flaps. Putting burgees on the starboard upper shroud, I sometimes try to reach up and put some electrical tape around the wire, to prevent the clips from sliding together on the wire, but it doesn't last but a few times clipping the burgee on before it gets chewed up and needs replaced. I have considered lashing a small bullet block to the backstay, and then running a 3/16" line for a flag halyard. It would allow me to get the pirate action roughly 1/3" up the backstay, higher than I can reach.  

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani

I have spring clips lashed to the backstay as high as I can reach. I have some of the ones like shown in the first response, but they tend to slip down. Very annoying.  

Although no longer a hard, fast rule... it is traditional to reserve the backstay or stern flagstaff for the national ensign of a boat's country of registration. If you fly only a pirate flag from your backstay you are basically stating that your boat has no home. go figure.  

I have a small block at the masthead. Attached to that is a 1/8 line that runs along the backstay to a shroud cleat. The cleat is mounted pretty high so that it's most comfortable for me to stand on a cockpit seat or on the transom to raise the flag. This seemed best just to keep things away from people while sailing. On the line are a couple of stainless clips, tied to the line to accommodate the size of our ensign. Those clips attach to the ensign AND the backstay so that they run up the stay, which keeps the line (and the flag) on the backstay. I used this arrangement because my mainsail is pretty close to the backstay and I wanted to keep the line from fouling on the sail. Sailcare sells kits for this, with the little clips (which I have not seen anywhere else) for about half what you'd pay for a Johnson flag halyard kit. It works really well; we hoist the ensign up about 2/3-3/4 up the height of the backstay. Aside from being technically correct and (I think) looking very yachtsman like, the best thing about having a flag on the backstay is that it is a great wind indicator. We use it more often than the wind vane at the masthead. One caution; we don't raise anything to the top out of fear that it may foul on a halyard or something else up there where things get tight. My kids really want to fly a big streamer up there, but I worry it would result in a tangled mess.  

Joe said: If you fly only a pirate flag from your backstay you are basically stating that your boat has no home. Click to expand

Brian S said: Or stating: "Prepare to be boarded and give up your loot and women!" Arrrrr! Click to expand

Indysailor said: I'm happy just looting them of their beer. Click to expand

pupluv said: What's the best way to attach a flag to the backstay so it flies well? Click to expand

I ran a continuous line to the back of the masthead without a pully. You can fly your flag at any height you want. Even multiple flags. Only changed out the line once in twenty years. It was very dirty..... heh heh. I fly a 6X10 American flag on it on the fourth of July. I attach the two brass clasps directly to the flag so there are no clips. SS  

We tried inserting a short section of VHF antennae in the edge of our flag but it kept poking through the material. Since we're in Florida right now, away from a sewing machine and other materials, I just found a cheap yardstick to hold the grommets apart. An added bonus is being able to measure wave heights or set plug gaps.  

Attachments

I had what could have been a serious issue using flag clips on the back stay of my boat. When I bought my boat it had flag clips on the back stay. Before I splashed it last spring I replaced the side shrouds and back stay. I reinstalled the flag clips so I could fly my O'Day burgee. My boat was in the water from mid June until Nov 1. When stripping the boat for the winter I took off the burgee and clips and found the back stay was badly worn from the flag clips. I have had suggestions that it was electrolysis and that it was wear from dissimilar metals. My thought was they were so bent up that I had to rebend them and got them too tight. Whatever the reason, the photos show the type of clips and the worn back stay that was less than 6 months old. While I am sure others did/do not have this problem, I won't be putting clips on stays again. For this season I will have separate flag shrouds.  

Holy Moly.... that's serious.... those are not intended to be attached to stays and shrouds.  

Ward H said: I had what could have been a serious issue using flag clips on the back stay of my boat. When I bought my boat it had flag clips on the back stay. Before I splashed it last spring I replaced the side shrouds and back stay. I reinstalled the flag clips so I could fly my O'Day burgee. My boat was in the water from mid June until Nov 1. When stripping the boat for the winter I took off the burgee and clips and found the back stay was badly worn from the flag clips. I have had suggestions that it was electrolysis and that it was wear from dissimilar metals. My thought was they were so bent up that I had to rebend them and got them too tight. Whatever the reason, the photos show the type of clips and the worn back stay that was less than 6 months old. While I am sure others did/do not have this problem, I won't be putting clips on stays again. For this season I will have separate flag shrouds. Click to expand

For what it worth, West Marina claims to have flag clips particularly for halyards, antennas, and I thought I saw backstays in the print catalog.  

pupluv said: For what it worth, West Marina claims to have flag clips particularly for halyards, antennas, and I thought I saw backstays in the print catalog. Click to expand

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Alinghi Red Bull Racing Suffers Second Mast Failure

• By Dave Reed
• August 20, 2024

Alinghi Red Bull Racing, Swiss challenger for the Louis Vuitton 37th America’s Cup, suffered its second AC75 mast failure on Tuesday, August 20, in Barcelona, during a training session ahead of the final Preliminary Regatta set to start on Thursday. Silvio Arrivabene, a general manager with the team reported that all crewmembers were safe and that the team “remains fully focused on racing.”

According to former AC Recon personnel and Sailing World contributor, Justin Busuttil, on site in Barcelona’s Port Vell, the mast that collapsed today in moderate conditions and benign sea state is the team’s newest spar, and it was its first day of usage on the water and under real sailing loads.

Alinghi Red Bull Racing’s previous mast failure occurred in June in Barcelona while the team was training at the higher end of the wind range. That spar, also a new-generation mast tube, broke into several pieces during a high-speed bear-away. At the time, Arrivabene shrugged off the incident and said, “that’s why we have spares.”

Days later, Alinghi’s BoatOne was back on the water with its spare “legacy” mast that it had procured when the team purchased the 36th America’s Cup-winning AC75 of Emirates Team New Zealand. According to Busutill, the team has continued to train with the legacy mast since June. 

The carbon D-shaped mast tube for the AC75 fleet is listed as a supplied part, or “stock component,” in the AC75 Technical Regulations, which specify that the stock mast tube “excludes any attached components such as luff tracks, mainsail support structures and control systems as well as taping or local reinforcements for the connection of such components.”

The root cause of the first failure has not been publicly shared by the team, but it is well understood that the absence of backstay on the current generation AC75s, distribution of the sail loading is an ongoing technical concern and significant design challenge. 

The AC75 Technical Regulations specify the number of masts a team can build or modify, as they do for sails and certain foil components, and the regulations allow one legacy mast, with restrictions on modifications, and two new mast tubes. Mast tubes can be repaired (as Alinghi’s first tube is believed to be) as long as they retain predetermined materials, bend and weight parameters.

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