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BOTTOM PAINTING

As a boat owner, getting dragged to the depths of the ocean by a giant sea monster is probably not high on your list of concerns. But make no mistake, there are some very foul creatures lurking beneath the waves.

We’re talking microscopic sea monsters: acorn barnacles, zebra mussels and slime-causing bacteria that cause serious hull drag, and wallet drain from higher fuel costs and repair bills.

You may not even know they’re there until it’s too late because they don’t come at you flailing ferocious tentacles, at least not ones you can see. What you will see—and want to prevent—is the ugly, dirty, slimy mess they make on the bottom of your hull that decreases your speed and increases your fuel bill because your engine has to work harder. A fouled hull bottom is also a safety risk because it can decrease your ability to maneuver.

Battle the barnacles and other biofouling bottom huggers with the right bottom paint for smoother sailing.

Choosing an Antifouling Bottom Paint

Location, location, location, types of antifouling bottom paint, which bottom paint is best for your boat, figuring how much paint you need, how to strike a waterline on your boat, bottom painting equipment, surface prep for bottom painting, best conditions for bottom painting, bottom painting like a pro.

The purpose of applying antifouling bottom paint is to prevent hard biofouling organisms like mussels, barnacles, and tubeworms, and soft growth like weeds and algae (slime!) from attaching to your hull below the waterline.

There are several different antifouling coatings available, with new ones being formulated all the time, making it very difficult to choose the paint that’s right for your boat and your budget. Some coatings work better in different locations, including fresh or salt water. Some are more environmentally friendly than others, and some cost more based on the type of biocide and the protection they provide.

The key antifouling ingredient in bottom paint is some type of biocide for deterring hard marine growth. Some antifouling paints also include an algaecide for preventing soft growth.

Biocide basics : For centuries, some form of copper has been used successfully to prevent the attachment of barnacles and other marine growth on hull bottoms. Today, the type of copper most commonly contained in antifouling paint is either cuprous oxide or cuprous thiocyanate. Cuprous thiocyanate has the added benefits of being a lighter copper in terms of color, so it produces brighter, truer paint colors. Also, paints using cuprous thiocyanate use half the amount of copper used in conventional, heavier cuprous oxide paints.

Because copper in the concentrations used in antifouling paints is a potential threat to some marine ecosystems, there are now equally effective, eco-friendly, antifouling paints that contain a metal-free biocide called Econea™ (main ingredient is tralopyril). Econea’s main benefit is that it dissolves after it is shed into the water, leaving no byproduct to harm marine life. Its secondary benefit is that it allows for the creation of brightly colored paints, unlike bottom paints containing cuprous oxide as the biocide.

Algaecide basics: If you use your boat in an area where slime, algae, and grass growth on the bottom of your hull are common, you need an antifouling paint that also contains an algaecide to prevent this soft growth. In the past, some antifouling paints contained an algaecide called Irgarol, which is no longer being used. Irgarol was discontinued because of its persistence after release into the water, and harmful effects on marine life. Zinc pyrithione (Zinc Omadine™) is now the slime-fighting agent used in many antifouling bottom paints. Its effectiveness is similar to Irgarol, but it dissipates quickly and harmlessly into marine or fresh water ecosystems. Zinc pyrithione is found in chemical solvent-based and water-based antifouling marine paints.

Chemical solvent-based or water-based antifouling paint? Another consideration is the type of solvent in the paint. Solvents keep the biocide, algaecide (if included), and pigment suspended in the paint so they’re distributed evenly in the coating as it’s applied to the hull surface. In the past, most antifouling paints contained harsh chemical solvents, and required the use of chemical solvents for thinning and cleanup. Those harsh chemical solvents contain toxic VOCs (volatile organic compounds) that evaporate easily into the atmosphere. To help meet environmental regulations in some areas of the country, and the world, there are now water-based paints, that also use water for thinning and cleanup. Many of these water-based antifouling paints contain the biocide Econea, and zinc pyrithione as the algaecide, because both dissolve in the water after release.

Won’t a water-based antifouling paint just dissolve and leave the hull unprotected while the boat is in the water? : The short answer is no. As the water-based paint cures, the water evaporates, leaving behind a protective film of biocide and/or algaecide, and pigment.

Teflon and vinyl bottom paints : Teflon paints are expensive, dry quickly, cure to a very thin film, and are ideal for fresh water areas where algae is a problem. Vinyl bottom paints are hard bottom paints that can be burnished smooth for racing, and are especially effective in saltwater, though not as effective as ablative paints for battling biofouling organisms. Both Teflon and vinyl bottom paints are used more to enhance performance, as in race boats, instead of antifouling.

Proprietary two-part bottom coatings : These products are new and expensive, using patented chemical formulas to create a hard and very slippery biofilm that doesn’t allow living organisms to attach to the boat.

Deciding on bottom paint is a regional, sometimes section-of-the-harbor-specific choice. It’s based on lots of variables like water temperature, silt, substrate, pollution, water flow, biofouling organisms present, and the frequency and type of boating you do.

Making that choice is made even harder because a bottom paint that works in one part of the harbor may not be as effective a few hundred yards away in that same harbor–even on the same type of boat.

The general consensus is there’s more fouling activity in warmer water and still water, and less growth in water that’s colder or where there’s more current flowing beneath the hull. It’s also harder for biofoulers to attach to a moving target, so the more you use your boat, the cleaner the bottom should remain.

At any rate, it’s always a good idea to ask fellow boaters and local boatyard professionals to help pinpoint paints that work best where your boat floats.

Bottom paints are usually one of two types: hard or ablative, with variations whose effectiveness depends on how much time the boat spends in the water, and how often it moves.

Hard bottom paints are typically less expensive than ablative antifouling paints. However, hard paints are effective for a single season, and they build up season after season, eventually requiring costly removal. Ablative paints come in single-season and multiseason varieties and don’t build up.

Hard bottom paint dries hard, stays that way, and doesn’t wear away gradually like an ablative paint. It works constantly while the boat is in the water, regardless of whether the boat is moving, and stops working once all its copper biocide gradually leaches out. So the coating can still be in great shape, but the biocide is gone and so is the protection. Water can seep in to the unprotected coating and damage the hull. Also, because hard bottom paint doesn’t wear away, it builds up and eventually has to be removed–a costly, labor-intensive endeavor.

Another problem for hard bottom paints is they lose their copper faster–and their effectiveness–if the boat is kept out of the water more than 60 days after applying bottom paint. For this reason, hard bottom paint is typically used on boats that remain in the water for extended periods. It’s also great for boats operated at faster speeds, like racing boats, because it can be burnished to increase hull smoothness and speed, unlike ablative bottom paints.

Ablative bottom paint wears away gradually as water flows under the hull, either from use or tidal movements. As the paint wears away, it exposes a fresh burst of biocide to keep biofoulers from attaching to the surface. There are ablative paints for multiple season use, and others that are effective for a single season. The single-season ablatives are typically less expensive than the multiple season ablatives.

For most ablative paints to work effectively, motion is required, so this paint is best if you use your boat fairly often–at least once a week. A hull painted with a single-season ablative antifouling paint can be pulled and left out of the water up to two weeks, but will require a light scuffing with a Scotch-Brite pad to reactivate the antifouling properties directly prior to launching.

A hull coated with a multi-season ablative can be pulled and left out of the water up to two weeks, without scuffing to reactivate the antifouling. However, after two weeks, scuffing is required directly before launching.

Self-polishing, copolymer ablative bottom paint also wears away gradually to expose fresh layers of biocide. However, it’s effective whether or not the boat is moving because it uses a self-polishing, controlled-release, copper copolymer formula. Some copolymer ablatives can last multiple seasons, requiring only a light scuffing to reactivate the antifouling in the spring, directly before launching.

Hybrid copolymer ablative bottom paint has all the self-polishing, controlled-release biocide benefits of a copolymer ablative. The difference is that it can also be burnished–like a hard bottom paint–for smoothness and speed, unlike other ablative bottom paints. And there’s less buildup to remove next season, as with hard bottom paints.

Preventing biofouling is not a one-shot-and-you’re-done deal, and no bottom paint is best for every boat. Your decision depends on answers to these practical questions.

What type of hull do you have? Most bottom paints contain copper as their antifouling biocide, which is fine for wooden, and fiberglass/gelcoat hulls, but causes galvanic corrosion, which will destroy a pontoon boat or an aluminum hull. For use on aluminum hulls, aluminum bottom paint typically uses a copper-free biocide such as Econea. Underwater metals such as outdrives and trim tabs also need this metal-free antifouling paint. And don’t forget the bottom of your inflatable, it needs protection, too. Inflatable bottom paint is ablative, so it wears away gradually, and is designed not to crack or peel while the boat is being rolled up, or after drying. What kind of water is your boat sitting in, and what’s the water temperature? In terms of temperature, biofouling levels are typically higher in warmer waters than cooler waters. Fresh water biofouling, while not as severe as saltwater (marine) biofouling, still poses problems which are compounded if the water is brackish or polluted. By far the biggest challenge comes from hard, marine biofouling organisms such as zebra mussels and barnacles, which destroy the hull surface and allow moisture in, causing blistering and other expensive damage. If moderate to heavy fouling is a problem in your region, you might consider a bottom paint that offers greater protection and lets you haul and relaunch without repainting, such as a multi-season paint. In lower fouling waters, you can get adequate single-season protection from a more economical bottom paint . The copper biocide (cuprous oxide or cuprous thiocyanate) or copper-free biocide (Econea) in these paints is designed primarily to combat hard shell marine growth. If slime is a problem in your area, use a slime-shedding bottom paint boosted with a slime-fighting agent (zinc pyrithione) that controls slime growth at the waterline. How and when do you use your boat? For example, do you trailer your boat? If so, you should use a harder ablative bottom paint that can withstand trailering. Do you race it or just like to go fast? Try a hybrid copolymer ablative that allows you to burnish the surface, and provides good single or multiple season protection. Do you go out every weekend? Every day? Do you want to be able to do your bottom painting at the end of the season so you’re ready to launch first thing in the spring? At TotalBoat, we’re DIY boaters that create products to suit every type of use in all types of waters. Do you live in an area that restricts the use of solvent and copper-based bottom paints? To address ever-increasing environmental regulations, some ablative bottom paints are now water-based and/or copper-free, containing an environmentally friendly biocide called Econea™, and fewer volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Other water-based ablatives contain copper for added antifouling protection, but offer easy soap and water cleanup. How much money do you want to spend on bottom painting? With bottom paint, usually the more biocide, or different types of biocide, the greater the cost. Also certain properties, like self-polishing, single or multi-season effectiveness, or slime-fighting ability, require the inclusion of certain additives, which can increase the cost. If you don’t need it, you shouldn’t have to pay for it, which is why we created a complete line of bottom paints to balance every boater’s needs and budget.

Figuring out the approximate surface area (in square feet) of your hull below the waterline is a good way to determine the amount of bottom paint you’ll need. Here’s an easy formula to use:

Length x Beam x .85

How heavily you apply the bottom paint is another factor in determining the quantity. The amounts below assume you want to coat the surface as thickly as possible without causing runs, and that you are applying two coats. For specific quantities, always refer to the manufacturer’s details on coverage areas.

Applying two coats of bottom paint up to the old waterline is a fairly straightforward task–if you know where the waterline is. Sometimes the line gets covered up by topside coatings, or it needs to be raised as the boat gets outfitted for cruising. Or you may have a new boat and need to find the waterline. Here’s a simple way to mark the waterline on your boat in preparation for bottom painting.

What You’ll Need for Bottom Painting

The safest and best way to do a DIY bottom paint job involves applying the paint with a brush or roller. Due to the substantial toxic hazards, spraying is not recommended.

If using a solvent-based antifouling paint, it’s important to use solvent-resistant roller covers, brushes, and paint trays and liners because the solvents in bottom paint are strong enough to dissolve regular household-type versions of these painting tools.

• Personal protection for sanding – paint suit with hood , goggles, and a respirator with appropriate cartridges, and gloves
• If bottom paint is cracking and peeling or otherwise requires removal (as in the case of hard bottom paint) use chemical stripper to remove it. Our TotalBoat TotalStrip paint remover is safe for gelcoat and fiberglass, and it’s easy to apply, odor-free, biodegradable, can strip up to 25 layers in a single application, requires no acid wash neutralization, and cleans up easily with just plain water. It’s also very effective on bottom paint.
• If previous bottom paint is in good condition and not too thick (only a couple of previous coats), you don’t need to sand it down, just scuff it up using a clean, maroon Scotch-Brite pad
• Paint scraper for removing loose or chipping antifouling paint to clean up the hull bottom before sanding
• When sanding down old bottom paint, use 80-grit large diameter sanding disks and a right angle grinder or dustless sander (recommended). 80-grit paper is the most common grit for sanding antifouling paint. Always use a dustless sander to keep the toxic antifouling paint sanding residue contained.
• Masking tape – solvent and water-resistant tape is ideal for lengthy bottom painting jobs that require two coats. This clean-release masking tape lifts off easily, leaving no gummy residue.
• Scratch-free cleaning and wiping rags and acetone or mineral spirits for removing surface dust and residue
• Solvent-resistant paint brush or 3/8" nap roller, paint tray and liner, plus small-width chip brushes for cutting in
• Drop cloths for any sanding debris, and for catching paint drips and spills

To ensure the best possible bond and the most effective antifouling results, take time to assess the type and amount of surface preparation needed. Typically, most ablative bottom paints can be applied over hard paints, but not the other way around. Also most other antifouling paints can’t be painted over vinyl or Teflon bottom paints. Incompatible paints must be removed first. Substrate matters, too, so for example, if you’re painting on steel or aluminum, check that you coat the surface with an appropriate metal primer first. Incompatible bottom paint or previous bottom paint that is extremely deteriorated should be stripped first. Use a chemical stripper that works with bottom paint to remove it. If you stripped the old antifouling and found hull damage or damage to the barrier coat, or if you’re painting a new boat for the first time, you’ll need to apply an epoxy barrier coat before applying bottom paint.

Cleaning Tips

In many cases, you’ll be painting over a previous bottom paint job that’s in good condition, so you don’t need to strip the paint or sand. Just chip away any loose paint with a paint scraper or putty knife, then abrade with a medium-grade 3M ScotchBrite pad, then wipe the surface with a clean, lint-free cheesecloth, rag, or tack cloth dampened with acetone or mineral spirits (or thinner recommended by the paint manufacturer) to remove residual dust and grease, let dry, then apply masking tape.

Sanding Tips

If you need to sand, sanding makes a mess, so first lay down some drop cloths under and around your work area. Sanding bottom paint also creates toxic dust, so use a dustless sander. And protect your exposed eyes, skin, and lungs with high-quality protective equipment before you begin sanding.

Masking Tips

For the cleanest line, try to position the tape as close to the bootstripe as you can, beginning at a natural start point in the line. Draw the tape out slowly, outlining every 1.5 to 2 feet. In addition, mask around underwater metals to protect them from contact with any copper-based antifouling paint.

Use 80-grit sandpaper to sand the entire bottom to smooth it out and remove any high or uneven spots. Sand lightly so you don’t sand through a protective barrier coat or damage gelcoat. After sanding, wipe down the surface using the solvent recommended by the bottom paint manufacturer.

After masking, and before painting, wipe the surface with a clean, lint-free cloth to remove any residual dust or dirt.

Getting great performance from your antifouling paint takes more than just completing the surface prep properly so the paint has every chance to bond mechanically and chemically to the hull. You also have to apply the paint when the timing is right in terms of temperature and humidity.

Resist the urge to start painting until temperatures are between 50°-85°F and the humidity is between 65 and 90%, or according to the manufacturer’s specifications. Be patient and wait for the weather to cooperate. You’ll be rewarded not just with optimal antifouling effectiveness, but with better looking, longer lasting results.

Before you start, pay attention to the dry time between coats and the recommended number of coats, as indicated by the manufacturer. Also, be sure to check if there are any maximum limits on the amount of time the boat can remain out of the water after bottom painting and prior to launch. For example, copolymer ablative paints dry faster, which means their overcoating times are shorter. They also have longer or unlimited launch windows.

Once you know the characteristics of your coating, and you’re ready to paint, here are some tips to expedite the process.

• To make it easier to get as much copper off the bottom of the can and into the paint, take it to a paint shop and have it shaken first. This will make it easier for you to stir the paint thoroughly.
• Do not thin bottom paint or it will lose its antifouling effectiveness.
• Use a solvent-resistant brush or 3/8" nap roller to apply paint thickly, without drips, onto the hull. Keep the thickness even, and paint from one end of the boat to the other.
• Because ablative paints wear away faster in areas of greatest turbulence, apply extra coats to these places such as the leading edge of the keel and the bow.
• Remember to paint underwater metals such as transducers, with a copper-free antifouling paint that will not cause galvanic corrosion.
• Recoat based on the manufacturer’s directions for overcoat times. Ensure that the weather conditions are optimal for recoating.
• After the final coat of bottom paint has dried, remove the masking tape slowly and carefully. After cleaning up, be sure to dispose of used solvent and paints properly.

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Sailing Smoothly: The Best Guide to Selecting the Perfect Bottom Paint for Your Boat

Maintaining your boat’s performance and longevity is deeply anchored in the choice of the right bottom paint. It’s not just about aesthetics; it’s about creating a shield against marine life that can slow you down.

Dive into this all-encompassing guide to discover how the right bottom paint, tailored to your boating lifestyle, can make a world of difference.

The Vital Role of Bottom Paint

Think of your boat’s hull as a warrior in constant battle against underwater foes. Without bottom paint, it’s vulnerable to fouling, which can lead to reduced speed and efficiency. The secret weapon? Bottom paint infused with biocides that repel these unwelcome guests, keeping your hull sleek and swift.

Exploring the Seas of Bottom Paint Choices

Navigating the world of bottom paints can be like sailing through uncharted waters. There’s hard paint for the long haul, ablative paint that gracefully wears away with use, and even eco-friendly options that embrace green sailing. Each type has its unique strengths, so your choice should reflect your nautical needs.

The Copper Conundrum

Copper-based paints have long been the go-to for their fouling-fighting prowess. But as we become more conscious of our environmental impact, it’s important to weigh the effectiveness against potential ecological concerns.

Tailoring Paint to Your Boating Style

Your boating habits are the compass that guides your choice of bottom paint. Whether you’re leisurely cruising or racing against the wind, there’s a paint that aligns perfectly with your aquatic adventures:

Cruising Boats

With sleek and sturdy boats, their hulls coated in durable paint, resist the corrosive forces of time and tide. These vessels offer unwavering protection, allowing you to sail confidently through any weather conditions.

Racing Boats

For those seeking speed, ablative paints provide a slick and clean surface that is crucial for cutting through the waves. Their sleek, streamlined bodies sliced through the water with precision and speed. Each boat was coated in a shimmering layer of ablative paint, creating a smooth and clean surface that was essential for achieving maximum velocity.

Factors to Navigate When Choosing Paint

The waters you sail, the material of your hull, and even local laws are crucial markers in your journey to the perfect paint:

As you glide through the vast expanse of ocean, the type of water beneath your boat plays a crucial role in determining the ideal paint for your vessel. The crystal clear waters of a freshwater lake call for a different coating than the salty waves of the open sea. And even the laws and regulations of the local area can impact your choice of paint.

Hull Material

Selecting the hull material for your boat is like choosing a vessel as a sailor. The material you choose will play a crucial role in determining which type of paint will adhere best and provide optimal protection for your boat. Think carefully about your options, for the material itself can greatly impact the performance and longevity of your watercraft on the open seas.

DIY or Professional

Taking on a DIY project can be both exciting and daunting. Are you confident in your skills to paint your own ship, or will you leave it to the professionals? Consider the type of paint you choose–some are more forgiving for those without professional experience. As you set out on this endeavor, envision yourself as a deckhand navigating rough seas, armed with your chosen brush and paint, ready to transform your ship into a masterpiece.

Local Rules of the Sea

As you sail the open sea, always keep a vigilant watch on the horizon for any local regulations that may dictate your voyage. Pay special attention to any restrictions regarding copper-based options, as they may affect your journey in unexpected ways. Stay informed and navigate confidently to ensure smooth sailing ahead.

Final Thoughts

Your boat is more than a vessel; it’s a testament to your passion for the sea. Choosing the right bottom paint is a crucial step in ensuring it remains your faithful companion on countless voyages. With a keen understanding of the types of bottom paint and a thoughtful consideration of your boating style and environment, you can set sail confidently, knowing your boat is as ready for adventure as you are. Keep your hull in prime condition, and the sea will always welcome you with open arms.

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How to Prep and Bottom Paint Your Boat

A step-by-step process for sanding, prepping and bottom painting your boat [video].

Bottom paint (also known as antifouling paint) helps protect your boat from barnacles, weeds and other aquatic organisms from attaching to the underwater portion of your boat’s hull. If you leave your boat in the water all season, you need bottom paint.

One of the final spring preparation jobs before launching your boat for the boating season is typically painting the bottom.

As I prepared my sailboat Bay Poet for launch this spring, I started with a winter hull inspection in the yard. That is when I determined what projects need to be completed before launch. This year, I took the opportunity to  install a new shower sump and then I  replaced the sacrificial zincs on the prop shaft (an annual task for me).

Then it was time for final preparations before launch. This includes washing and waxing the hull, followed by preparing the bottom for painting and then, of course, painting.

Here is the step-by-step process that I took this year to prep and paint the bottom of my boat.

Preparing to Paint the Bottom

Determine the Scope of the Work

During that walk-around inspection to which I referred, you may have identified some dings and defects in your fiberglass. If you did find any, you will need to have those repaired or do that yourself.

Those sorts of repairs are beyond the scope of this article. If any deep repairs are necessary…and that would be any damage that might compromise the integrity of the fiberglass, they will need to be addressed and absolutely so if the core is exposed.

It is important to get any such repairs made BEFORE you proceed to sand the bottom in preparation to paint. This way any fiberglass repairs or patches can be faired before your paint. The repair may also need a barrier paint applied before you apply the bottom paint.

Understand that the purpose for sanding is not to remove all of the existing bottom paint, if any. It is to create a surface which will allow better bonding with the new layer of paint. In other words, you want the surface to be painted to have some “tooth”.

Preparing to Sand

A note of caution here: Bottom paints are generally toxic. That is the purpose for them – to inhibit the attachment and growth of organisms, both plant and animal. It will do this by sloughing off microscopic layers while underway. However, the paint itself will often contain a biocide. That biocide is generally non-specific and somewhat toxic for humans as well.

Before attempting to sand your boat’s bottom, check with your marina for their guidelines. You will likely be required to use a ground cover to catch any falling paint particles and dust. You may also have to connect your electrical sander to a dust collection system, generally a shop vac with a HEPA filter installed. Under no conditions should you allow any of the sanding dust to wind up in the water.

Allow for a full day or more. The more helpers you have, the faster it will go. But don’t rush because that will lead to a poor surface preparation or injury. Do not assume that you will be able to sand and paint all in one day.

Before sanding, you may need to use a stiff brush or scrubbing pad to wash away any remaining dirt or organic material. Be very careful with barnacles as they can be very sharp and cause injury. Sometimes you can pop them off with a paint scraper. Other times, you might have to sand them off.

As with woodworking, you want to start the sander before putting it on the hull and then keep it moving so it does not remove too much material in one spot. If you paint your prop shaft and propeller, don’t forget to sand them as well but you are likely to have to do those by hand.

Sanding is generally tedious and some of the positions in which you find yourself will be uncomfortable. I guarantee that you will “feel your work” the next day or two after you are done!

When you are all done with that, dispose of any collected dust and debris in an approved manner. This is a matter of local environmental regulations and just plain common sense. You may also want to throw away your coveralls as they will be very dusty.

Bottom Painting

Tools and Protective Clothing

For the best quality job, you will want to purchase good quality brushes and rollers. At the same time, it will probably not be worth the effort to clean your rollers and brushes at the end of the job. I choose to just throw those away along with the pour spout, rags, and disposable gloves. I do keep the roller handles, extension rods, and plastic painting tarps.

I also wear Tyvek coveralls but not the same ones I might have used during sanding. I will reuse my painting my coveralls until they become too damaged for use. I also wear safety glasses. If you have to get paint off your prescription glasses, it can damage the lenses and coatings. So for the tools that you can reuse, it is worth buying good quality. For items that will be used only once, buy good quality but not top of the line.

Painting Day

I have seen marina staff paint a boat and immediately launch it. I am not sure about that but while you might be able to paint in damp weather, you probably won’t want to do so for your personal comfort, if nothing else.

Next I spread a plastic drop cloth and keep moving it to keep it underneath the area on which I am working.

(NOTE: some marinas will put down a ground cover for you when your boat is hauled out. Of course, there is a cost but that is a decision you may be able to make.)

My preference is to start from the rear since all of the more complicated structures like the rudder and the through-hull box from which the prop shaft exits are in the back.

Work from the wet edges. For all the crevices and corners that your roller can’t quite reach, go back afterward with a smaller roller or a 2 to 3-inch brush. I do not worry about the complete underside of the bulb keel but I will do the underside of wings and under the front of the bulb.

Do NOT attempt to move jack stands on your own when you paint. Coordinate with your marina to have their staff move the stands or alternatively, the marina may paint the areas under the jack stand pads when they launch the boat.

Cleaning Up

I have used my left over paint 2 years later with no problems. It had not even skinned over. This may be a little bit of a challenge next time because the type of paint I have used the last 6 years has been discontinued. I will need to find a compatible replacement both in terms of bonding to the current paint and mixing with the half gallon of my left overs.

All the rollers, brushes, disposable gloves, and even the pour spout should go into a heavy duty plastic bag that gets tied closed securely and then put into the appropriate waste container. Check with your marina for information on proper disposal.

Check out Spring Prep Gear  for bottom paint options

Watch this recap video highlighting how I painted the bottom of my sailboat, Bay Poet .

Painting prep and painting can be physically tedious but your bottom needs fresh paint for best performance. If you do the job right, your bottom paint could last more than one season, especially on sailboats. The ablation that occurs is likely to be more pronounced on power boats owing to the higher speeds at which they travel through the water. In any case, inspect, prep, and repaint as necessary.

Likewise, check your sacrificial zincs yearly. You will probably have to replace them at least once a year.

A little bit of maintenance will allow you to enjoy your boat for a long time!

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I like your advice to do a walk-around inspection to identify any dins or defects in the boat’s fiberglass to get them repaired. When adding a top or bottom coating to your boat, it would probably help to hire a professional. A professional could ensure that it’s inspected and prepped properly so that it’s ready for the coating, which can then be applied correctly so you have the best results.

I have found the cost of have the marina prep and paint my 41-foot sloop to be somewhat cost prohibitive. The quoted cost is about $6000. I feel very comfortable prepping my bottom myself. I did my research and spoke with the marina service manager before starting. I have had to patch my rudder a couple of times but the bottom paint holds up at least 2 years.

It might not be a bad idea to inspect the boat with a professional in case one misses an important detail. However, from both a cost consideration and to become more familiar with my boat, I always prefer to do as much of the work myself as possible.

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How To Paint A Sailboat: A Complete Guide

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Whether you’re new to owning a sailboat or not, you have likely put some thought into painting your boat yourself. It is important to keep your boat well painted as it can save you a lot of money in the long run. It can also save you a lot of money if you choose to paint your boat yourself.

Whether or not this is the first time you have painted your boat, you will still find this article useful. It has lots of tips and tricks for making sure you get the job done and get it done well. Hiring a professional may be easier, but there is a sense of pride and accomplishment in doing it yourself. If you use this article as a reference, you can’t go wrong.

Table of contents

Why is it important to paint your sailboat?

Painting your boat is not just an excuse to put some creative flair into your boat, it is an important process in keeping the boat safe. Safe from salt, safe from barnacles, and safe from damage. The paint acts as a vital protective layer, without it your boat will be vulnerable to all kinds of damage. If you have a wooden hull, this protective layer will keep the wood from rotting. It can also plug any minuscule holes that might allow sea life and salt to make its way into the body of the boat.

There is also, of course, the added benefit of having a boat that looks good . A boat is a point of pride and should be treated as such. Having a glossy looking boat is something to be proud of. Most boats are not painted far above the waterline, so it is even an opportunity to make your boat stand out. Some people also believe that painting a boat brings good luck. Unless of course, you paint it green, green is thought to bring bad luck. Whether or not you believe that is up to you.

What are the benefits of painting your boat yourself?

When it comes to painting your boat there are only two options. Hire a professional boat painting contractor, or bite the bullet and do it yourself. They both have their pros and cons, of course, but there is so much more to be gained by doing it yourself. First of all, painting your boat yourself is just as fun as it is difficult. Learning to paint is a valuable life skill that you won’t regret learning as early on in your sailing career as possible. If you can learn to paint your boat now, you will save yourself a small fortune in the long run.

Hiring a contractor is expensive, to say the least, it may be faster and easier overall, but the extra cost can make it simply not feasible. Or simply unappealing. If this is the first time you are painting your sailboat you will need to make a one-off purchase of all the equipment needed for prepping, painting, and finishing the boat. After these one-off purchases are out of the way, you will only need to buy paint and new rollers the next time. Even if you need to buy all the equipment brand new, it can be cheaper than hiring someone else to do the job for you.

How often do you need to paint your sailboat?

The general rule of thumb for painting your boat is that it will need bottom paint about once a year. This is when you will need to take the boat completely out of the water and give it a fresh new coat. If your boat spends all of its time in the water, it certainly needs painting at least once a year. The saltwater is so corrosive that you shouldn’t let your boat go without a fresh coat of bottom paint for more than 2 years. Even if your boat only spends half its time in the water, and the other half on land, you will find that its best to keep its coat topped up.

The top paint, or the above waterline paint, doesn’t need painting anywhere near as often. It isn’t in direct contact with the seawater so it simply isn’t going to get eroded down as much. The salty sea spray can still be damaging over time so this paint should be re-done every 3 years. It can be more or less frequent depending on use and personal preference. Some people like to do above waterline paint yearly, with the rest of their boat, but it isn’t necessary.

What are the best paints to use for your sailboat?

There are plenty of great brands of paint out there, in various colors and shades, so you won’t struggle for choice. There are some things you might want to look for in your paint . For example, you may have noticed that a lot of boats tend to have red hulls. This isn’t just a fashion statement, and while red is supposed to bring luck this isn’t the main reason either. The reason is that this red/orange paint is perfect for added protection along the bottom of your boat.

This red/orange paint is interestingly chosen because it is, of course, traditional; but mostly because of its copper. The copper is actually what gives the paint its red/orange color.

Copper is perfect for the bottom of your boat for several reasons. First, copper acts as a biocide. It stops worms from making their way into the hull if your boat is wooden. If it is metal or fiberglass, it still has the benefit of stopping barnacles and other sea life from attaching themselves deep into the hull of the boat. Copper is also strong enough to hold up to scraping.

Scraping is when you scrape barnacles and other sea life off the hull of your boat. Scraping is an important part of keeping your boat in good condition. It is important to check with the marina or port authority whether or not you are allowed to scrape. If you scrape without permission you may find yourself on the receiving end of a hefty fine. The reason is that they don’t want you introducing invasive species on to the marina floor. This is mostly a problem when you are coming from somewhere vastly foreign, not sailing from New York to Chicago for example.

How many coats of paint does a sailboat need?

When painting your boat it’s a good idea to think about how many coats of paint you are going to need. There is no exact number that is needed, it is mostly to do with how well protected your boat needs to be and how much time you have on your hands. Every coat takes time and attention to detail.

If you choose to do four coats of paint it is going to be time-consuming but very well protected. That being said, the minimum number of coats is two. One is not enough. If your boat only spends part of the time in the water, two to three coats are plenty.

If you are someone who lives on their boat full-time, or at least most of the time, you may want to do more coats. Three, maybe even four, might be ideal here. The reason is that first, your boat is going to experience way more wear and tear than one that is just an ocean part-timer. And second, taking out your boat (which is also your home) is a giant hassle. It is a tedious process, so doing it as infrequently as possible is probably in your best interest. More coats last longer. When you are sailing from place to place, finding somewhere to take your boat out of the water and perform this maintenance is inconvenient. You want to be doing it as little as possible.

What safety precautions do I need to take when painting my sailboat?

All paint can be toxic when inhaled. Even if it is “non-toxic” paint it is going to be harmful to your lungs. They aren’t meant to inhale anything but air, even non-toxic paint is going to be bad for them. This is why it is important to wear a face mask.

Your mask should be specifically for painting, not surgical masks or other cheap medial masks. They are not going to be strong enough, with a fine enough air filter. Whether you feel the need to wear eyewear is up to you during the painting process.

Before the painting begins, when you are scraping and sanding, it is a good idea to wear some goggles to keep debris and splinters out of your eyes. It is also a good idea to wear gloves. You don’t want to rough your hands up too much, they need protection from not only the paint but splinters and sharp pieces of metal.

Painting a boat can be dangerous work. Without taking the proper safety precautions you are putting yourself at unnecessary risk. This safety equipment costs just a few bucks and is equally important as any of the other tools needed to paint your boat.

What tools do I need to paint a boat?

There is more to painting your boat than just using paint and a brush . You will also need tough sandpaper , potentially an angle grinder or welder , paint, primer , brushes, paint rollers , paint thinner , and solvent. You will need to make sure you have all of these things before you start painting. You can pick any of these items up at a boating goods store.

It is a good idea to bring some buckets with you for filling with water, both for rinsing off your boat and your brushes. All of your safety equipment needs to be brought too.

If this is your first time painting your boat yourself, you may find you need to buy all of these things at once. That can be a lot to stomach when its all in one go, luckily, most of these tools and equipment can be reused. Besides, it is still going to be far cheaper than hiring someone to do it for you. All of this equipment is an investment in your boat.

How to paint a sailboat

Whether this is the first time you have painted your boat or not, you may find some of the tips in this next section useful. Painting your sailboat may be tricky at first, but over time you will get the hang of it. The problem with painting your boat is that it can be a very expensive mistake if you get it wrong.

It is important to read this guide carefully, take your time, and make sure you do the job properly. It may be slow going at first, speed will come over time. Once you have gathered all of your safety equipment and tools you are ready to get started.

The workspace

First of all, you need to ensure you have the right workspace. You cant paint your boat in the water so you are going to need to find somewhere to do your work. This is easy enough if you don’t live on your boat full time, take the boat to your house and do your painting on the driveway. If this isn’t an option because you don’t have space or live on your boat full time, you are going to need to rent somewhere. There are typically places affiliated with the marina that you can use. In some cases, these even come with a majority of the equipment you will need. This, of course, drums up the price a bit, but that’s unavoidable.

Your workspace needs to be well ventilated, or you risk making yourself very sick. Both from paint fumes, rubbing alcohol fumes, and fine matter from when you sand the hull down. This means painting your boat in your garage, if it even fits, is not always the best idea. If you do decide to paint outside, it is important to consider the chance of rain. Of course, your boat is pretty waterproof, but once you begin sanding rain might damage the wood if left to sit there.

Before you do anything else, it is important to look your boat over fully from top to bottom. You are looking for any bumps, scrapes, cracks and general damage. This damage is not going to be noticeable while the boat is in the water, so just before you paint it is one of the only times you get to have a close look. Once you have made note of all this damage, it is time to get to work repairing it. Depending on just how severe this damage is, you may want to get help with this next stage.

All of this damage needs to be repaired before anything else can take place. Painting over these damaged areas is just going to hide the problem temporarily, the next time it comes to painting you will find they are far worse. If you don’t deal with this now, they are going to snowball into complicated and expensive repairs.

After your repairs are done it is time to start sanding. This is very time consuming as you need to do it three times. Per coat. First, take the 600 grit sandpaper and make your way around the boat. It is best to use electrical tape to mark out a section at a time so you don’t keep losing your place. After you have finished with the 600 grit sandpaper, it is time to move on to 800, then 1200. This process is important so you will be painting on as smooth a surface as possible. It is then a good idea to wipe the surfaces of the boat down with a damp cloth to remove any of the dust and flakes of metal/wood. Otherwise, you end up painting over them.

You could wash the boat down with a hose but you want to avoid getting the boat unnecessarily wet now that the hull has lost its protective layer. If you are sanding down a boat with a copper paint bottom, you may find the sanding process difficult. Just do your best, it doesn’t need to be 100% perfect. It is important to get as much of the old paint off as possible. Your new paint won’t adhere to the old paint as well as it would to the boat hull itself.

Putting on a layer of primer is not 100% necessary but it is recommended. The idea is that you want your topcoat to adhere to the boat as well as possible, a layer of primer can help you do that. The primer needs to be painted on evenly all over the boat. If you only feel like doing below the waterline, that is fine too. It will save you a lot of time. Putting on the layer of primer is not the most time-consuming part, it is mostly the sanding down that you will have to do. You will need to sand down using the 600 grit paper, then the 800, then 1200. Just like last time. Your layer of primer needs to be as smooth as possible for the maximum adhesion.

Now comes the paint. It is recommended to do at least two layers of paint. One undercoat and one top. Some people choose to go as far as two layers of primer, two layers of undercoat, and three layers of topcoat. This is going to be very time consuming, remember you will need to sand down three times between each layer of paint. You can paint using a brush if you like but is far easier to use a roller. It is also far easier if you employ someone to help you with this stage. It could be your spouse, child, friend, or anyone. It doesn’t need to be a paid professional. It can take a long time to go through this process. Especially if you are effectively doing 8 layers of paint (including primer).

The fastest way to paint, especially if you are on your own, is to use a sprayer. They are easy to use, with a little practice. If you haven’t used one before you may find that you struggle to get an even coat. You should always paint in vertical stripes, not horizontal. Additionally, it is a good idea to have someone following after you with a small brush doing small touch-up jobs. Any unevenness will need to be sanded down and repainted. The whole painting process can take a week if you aren’t efficient.

Take pictures

It is a good idea to take pictures throughout the whole process. This is for future reference. For example, if you take pictures of the boat when you are assessing it for damage, you can compare them to after you have repaired or sanded the trouble spots down. If you cant see the trouble spots still, great! If you can, it will help you keep an eye on them after you have painted too. It’s a good idea to catalog all of these areas if they start to become regular problems you may want to have your boat looked at by a mechanic. You might also like to have a before and after picture for your blog, or just as a personal memento.

Hopefully, you now have all the theory needed to paint your boat. There is a lot more that goes into painting your boat than simply grabbing some paint and a brush. It takes planning, practice, and attention to detail. If you follow this guide you will have no trouble at all. If this is your first time painting your boat, don’t be disheartened if it takes a lot longer than you expected. Speed will come with time, it is far more important to get the job done right than get it done quickly. If you put the work in you will be painting like a pro in no time at all.

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How Much Does It Cost to Bottom Paint a Boat? (Price Estimates)

A boat is an investment but for water lovers, the payoff is well worth it! Bottom painting your boat is part of the investment to maintain your boat. What does bottom painting involve? And, exactly how much is it going to cost, anyway?

Fortunately, there are a lot of options! Whether you are on a budget or you want the project completed quickly, there is a solution for you and your boat. Let’s find out more about bottom painting a boat, and the costs involved.

Table of Contents

What is Bottom Paint?

Why bottom paint a boat, primer/barrier coat, estimated cost, cost for labor, hauling and storage fees, cost per square foot, materials needed, time needed, when is it unnecessary to bottom paint a boat.

Bottom paint is also often called antifouling marine paint. It is a specially formulated paint or paints that coat the bottom of a boat. This multi-layer coating helps discourage the growth of aquatic organisms on the boat.

Bottom paint coats the bottom of the boat in order to discourage the growth of fouling aquatic organisms. These organisms, such as barnacles and algae, adhere to solid surfaces in the water, such as the bottom of your boat.

These aquatic organisms grow fast. You may try to keep up with scraping down the bottom of the boat, but it will be difficult to keep up with the growth on the underside.

All those barnacles and algae will slow down your boat, as well. The increased water resistance may cause as much as a 50% loss in hull through water efficiency. Not only will that cost you time, but you’ll spend more on diesel to get you to your destination. If your prop has aquatic organisms, your engine will suffer , as well.

What Paint is Needed for Bottom Painting a Boat?

Bottom painting a boat usually involves three layers of paint applied to the bottom of the boat. Typically, you will need two coats of each kind of paint.

The first coat of paint will be either an epoxy primer or a barrier coat . The two-part epoxy primer is perfect for repairs to the bottom of the boat. It will dry rock hard for a durable base coat.

A barrier coat is a similar, hard paint that will adhere to fiberglass, repair damage, and dry hard. Barrier coats are typically only used on fiberglass boats. Based on the condition of your boat, you would choose either a primer or a barrier coat.

The base coat of paint will be an antifouling paint or an ablative paint . This softer layer of paint will provide a layer to repel the build-up of marine growth.

Antifouling paint is quick-drying. It will slowly self-polish or wear down over time. This helps reduce the build-up of paint.

Ablative paint is very similar to antifouling paint. Often, the two terms are used interchangeably. Ablative paint is self-polishing as well. As the boat is in use, the paint will wear away gradually. It also repels aquatic organisms.

If you have an aluminum boat, avoid antifouling paint that includes copper. Copper may cause corrosion on the aluminum unless you have a protective primer in place between the boat and the antifouling paint.

The top coat is a gel coat that gives the boat a glossy, protective finish. This step may be skipped, depending on the antifouling paint, and your desired finish on the boat.

How Much Does It Cost to Hire Someone to Bottom Paint a Boat?

Most boat painters charge by the foot. For a 17-18 foot boat, expect to pay a total of between $1,200 to $3,000 or more to bottom paint a boat. As with any important job, it may be best to drop the lowest estimate and go with a reputable business that will treat you and your boat well.

Your dollars pay for materials, labor, and hauling, and storage fees.

Depending on the size of the boat, and the amount of work involved, a professional will probably spend between 10-20 hours painting the bottom of your boat. Most painters will charge $50-$100 per hour for labor. As you can see, labor makes up a good portion of your bill!

Often, your boat will need to be hauled to a painter, and stored during the painting process. Of course, there is a fee for this, as well. Most boat yards will charge by the linear foot to haul, wash, and block the boat. This fee is typically between $6-$10 per foot.

Yard storage fees are typically by the month. Often, boat owners will have their boat bottom painted during the off-season and will pay for several months of storage. Depending on the location, and the boat, be prepared to spend $100-$300 per month for storage fees.

In addition to paint, you are paying for the use of the painter’s brushes, tools, and equipment. The cost for paint for a 17-18 foot boat depends on the variety of paint used. Antifouling paint is fairly expensive. The cost for materials will be around $400-$700.

If you have about 200 square feet of paintable area on the bottom of your boat, your cost per square foot to bottom paint a boat will be $6-$15 or more.

How Much Does it Cost to DIY Bottom Paint a Boat?

If you are painting your boat yourself, your only costs are materials. For a 17-18 foot boat, the cost for materials will be $500-$800. This depends on the condition of your boat, as well.

Boat Primer is the first step. This primer covers 200 square feet at under hundred bucks. Next, this antifouling paint costs slightly more. One gallon covers 500 square feet, so that will be enough for two coats.

The final layer of paint is a gel coat . If you want to build up several layers of gel coat, you will need 3-8 gallons of gel coat at around $35 per gallon. For 5 gallons, that would be $175.

You will also need brushes, paint suits, rollers, and other painting supplies. Plan to spend $30-$50 on these supplies.  The fees to haul, block, and launch will be around $300.

The total amount for materials will be about $750.

If you have never bottom painted a boat or have extensive scraping and cleaning, be prepared to spend a little extra time. Otherwise, to bottom paint around 200 square feet of the boat, it will probably take 15-25 hours.

For 200 square feet of paintable space, the cost per square foot to bottom paint your boat yourself will be around $3.75.

If your boat is not stored in the water, it may not be necessary to use bottom paint. If you typically have your boat in a trailer or dry storage when it is not in use, it will be easy to perform regular maintenance. You should be able to remove all aquatic growth in between uses.

Final Thoughts

Bottom painting is a good investment for boats that spend a lot of time in the water! Evaluate your priorities. If you have the time, you can save a lot of money by bottom painting your boat yourself.

About Elissa Huebert

Elissa has been a homeowner for 18 years. During that time, she has painted every surface of her home at least twice (and some of her friends' homes, too!). She enjoys writing, learning, traveling, and trying new things.

2 thoughts on “How Much Does It Cost to Bottom Paint a Boat? (Price Estimates)”

I’m looking at a 34 ft boat that needs screws replaced an the bottom to be Re-Painted it is in water it doesn’t have a trailer. So before I invest in a fixer up I would like to know how much it will cost me to hire someone to have this done?

Hi Elissa, I’ve recently bought a Hunter 18.5 that’s in dry storage at clinton lake Kansas, near Lawrence. There’s little time for me to do the painting myself and I’m looking for someone who would do that for me so I am looking for estimates. Thank you very much, Hal Crites

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Home » Blog » Sail » Boat bottom paint: choose the best antifouling paint for your boat

Boat bottom paint: choose the best antifouling paint for your boat

By Author Fiona McGlynn

Posted on Last updated: February 9, 2022

You’re perusing the chandlery looking for a gallon of boat bottom paint (a.k.a antifouling paint). You just want to get in, get out, and get on with painting your boat.

But you reach the paint aisle and are awash in choices and confounding terms : hard modified epoxy, premium ablative, water-based, photoactive, thin film … The shop assistant suggests one paint, but your marina neighbor swears by another brand.

You’re feeling defeated. What happened to the good old days of slapping on some tar with a paintbrush and calling it a day?

Welcome to the convoluted (and at times highly controversial) world of marine boat bottom paint!

Fortunately, antifouling paint is not all that complicated . We’ll walk you through the different types of paint, help you choose the right bottom paint for your boat, and list the best boat bottom paint brands in each category.

Note: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product through a link on this site we will earn a small commission. All opinions are our own. Thanks for your support!

What is boat bottom paint?

Antifouling paint is a specialized paint that is applied below the waterline to inhibit the growth of weeds, slime, and animals (e.g., barnacles and tube worms).

All antifouling paints are made from a combination of these four components:

• Biocide (deters living organisms)
• Resin (keeps the paint together)
• Solvent (determines application characteristics and clean up/removal methods)
• Pigment (color and viscosity)

The differences in paints are based on the sources and mixes of these four elements .

For example, the softness or hardness of a paint is determined by the type, combination, and quantity of resin used in the mix. More on the differences between soft and hard paints later!

Do I need bottom paint on my boat?

For boats kept in the water for more than a week at a time, it is necessary to apply boat bottom paint to prevent growth of marine life (fouling).

Why would you bottom paint a boat?

Boat owners apply antifouling paint to the bottom of boats that are left in the water all season because it reduces the growth of marine life (fouling). Fouling not only reduces a boat’s performance but can also permanently damage the hull.

• Fouling can dramatically reduce a boat’s performance. A fouled bottom causes drag, which reduces fuel efficiency, speed, and handling, and can even cause a boat to sit lower in the water.
• Fouling can permanently damage the hull. In extreme cases, where marine growth has been left unchecked for extended periods of time, the “glue” produced by fouling critters can damage fiberglass and wooden boats.

How long does bottom paint last on a boat?

Depending on the marine life in your area, how you use your boat, and how often you clean your hull, you may need to apply antifouling paint anywhere from once a year to once every three years .

When should you bottom paint a boat?

Bottom paint may last one to three years, but you should check to see if it needs new paint, every year. If you see worn-through patches, flaking, blistering, corrosion, or any of the signs below, it’s time to repaint. Clean the bottom of your boat first, so you can see the condition of the paint.

• The paint has worn through. A common practice is to alternate boat bottom paint colors so you can clearly see when this has happened. • Flaking or blistering paint. When water gets under the paint (often around hardware) it can cause blistering and damage. If you see a fair bit of flaking or blistering, it’s time to repaint. • If you find yourself using abrasive tools and scrubbing to remove growth while cleaning your hull. Your dive service can also advise you on when it’s time for new paint. • If you notice performance issues , like reduced boat speed or handling and you have persistent growth on the hull. • Corrosion (if you have an aluminum boat). Aluminum doesn’t “rust”, though it does produce aluminum oxide which causes paint to flake off, exposing the aluminum underneath. • Your boat has been stored in the water for three seasons . Despite manufacturer claims to the contrary, most paint jobs don’t last more than three seasons.

A note on timing and temperature

Most boaters apply antifouling paint at the beginning of the season once temperatures have warmed up enough for the paint to dry. It’s important to know that paint will only dry under the right conditions (generally speaking 50-85 degrees F and below 65% humidity). It can be too cold, hot, or humid for the paint to cure, so read the manufacturer’s directions and choose your timing carefully.

Note that hard boat bottom paints lose their antifouling effectiveness when exposed to air so you would not want to apply hard paint in the winter and then store it out of the water for several months.

Types of boat bottom paint

Antifouling paints can generally be classified into three groups: s oft paints , hard paints , and hybrid paints. As mentioned previously, the difference between soft and hard paint is the type, combination, and quantity of resin used in the mix.

Ablative bottom paint

Soft bottom paint (a.k.a. self-polishing and ablative bottom paint) is intended to gradually wear away as water flows over the hull. As the paint gradually sloughs off, it exposes fresh biocide, preventing marine organisms from attaching to the hull.

• Reduces buildup of old paint (as it’s constantly wearing away) which means less sanding and expense when you go to repaint.
• Soft paints contain less copper but the ablating action means the copper is used more efficiently.
• Does not lose effectiveness when exposed to air.
• If the boat is docked for long periods (not moving) the paint will not effectively slough off and fouling will occur.
• Ablative antifouling paints are a poor choice for fast boats because higher speeds quickly wear away the paint.

Generally recommended for:

• Slow boats (e.g. cruising sailboats and non-planing powerboats) that are used frequently as well as boats that are stored out of the water for part of the year. While displacement boats may choose either soft or hard bottom paints, many boat owners opt for soft paints due to the advantages of lack of paint build-up.

Interlux’s Micron CSC

Pettit’s ultima sr40.

Hard bottom paint

Hard bottom paint ( a.k.a non-sloughing or hard modified epoxy paint) does not erode over time and instead, the  biocide leaches into the water. Water will gradually penetrate the paint until the biocide has been completely used up at which point the hard paint is no longer effective.

• Great for fast boats (e.g. racing sailboats and powerboats) as their tough exterior does not erode with increased speeds .
• Can be “burnished ” (finely sanded and polished) to provide a fast and smooth surface .
• Often contain a higher copper content which means better antifouling performance.
• Can be scrubbed more aggressively than ablative paint when cleaning the bottom of your boat.
• Hard paints build up over time with each additional coat unless vigorously sanded back each year. Eventually, the paint may build to a point where it cracks and peels and the hull will need to be stripped back (a very time-consuming process).

Stripping back paint to gel coat is a multiweek paint job and one of the downsides to hard paints which build up over time.

• Fast boats (e.g. racing sailboats or planing powerboats) and boats that stay in the water year-round. Ablative paints won’t last long at high speeds and a hard burnished surface will be faster for racers.

Interlux’s Ultra

Pettit’s trinidad sr.

Hybrid bottom paint

Hybrid bottom paints (aka semi-hard ablative paints) incorporate many of the benefits of both hard and soft bottom paints into a single product. Hybrid paints are self-polishing (like soft paint) and release biocides at a controlled rate (like a hard bottom paint), but they can’t be burnished to a smooth slippery surface for smoothness and speed. They also have less buildup than a hard paint.

• Ablative action
• Releases biocides
• Less buildup than hard bottom paint
• Holds up to faster speeds
• Can tolerate haulouts and air exposure without loss of protection
• Can’t be burnished

Generally recommended for

• Highspeed powerboats
• Slower displacement boats
• A fast trailerable boat may be better off with no paint at all as hard paints don’t do well when exposed to air for long periods . If that’s not possible, a hybrid paint may be a better option.

Things to consider before buying bottom paint

There are a few important things you should consider when choosing a boat bottom paint.

What type of material is my boat’s hull?

Boat hulls can be wood, fiberglass, aluminum, and steel. It’s important to ensure that a paint is appropriate for your boat’s hull material.

For example, aluminum boats must use specialized aluminum-safe paint. The cuprous oxide in regular paints will result in galvanic corrosion and damage an aluminum hull. Aluminum-safe paints use alternate biocides like zinc and cuprous thiocyanate.

For the same reason, you should never paint underwater metal components (like a propeller) with cuprous oxide paints .

Examples of aluminum safe paints: • Interlux’s Pacifica • Pettit’s Ultima Eco

What type of paint is on my boat right now?

If you’re repainting a boat you must ensure that any paint you apply is compatible with the existing paint on the hull. West Marine , Pettit , and Interlux all publish compatibility charts for reference .

As a rule of thumb, soft paints can be applied over hard paints but hard paints cannot be applied over ablative paints . To switch from soft paint to hard paint, the soft paint should first be entirely removed.

But what if I don’t know what the old paint on the hull is?

If you don’t know what type of bottom paint is currently on the hull, you can at least determine whether it is hard or soft paint by rubbing the hull with a light-colored, damp rag. If the paint easily rubs off onto the rag, it’s likely ablative.

How often do I use my boat?

If you use your boat frequently, ablative bottom paint is a good choice because fresh biocide will be released as the boat moves through the water.

If your boat will be sitting for long periods, a hard bottom paint may be a better choice.

Where will I be using my boat?

There are many different types of fouling. Marine biologists estimate there are more than 4,000 known fouling species! Generally, these species fall into one of three groups: animals, weeds, and slime.

Factors like water temperature, water quality, nearby population centers, inflows from rivers and streams, the speed of currents, and the amount of sunlight will affect the types and degrees of fouling in your area.

You’ll want to choose a bottom paint that is suitable for the fouling in your area. As fouling can differ from one marina to the next, it’s a good idea to ask the dockmaster or boaters in your marina what fouling they notice and what paint they use.

For example, freshwater areas like the Great Lakes, don’t have to worry about barnacles, but they do suffer from slime. In this case, a thin film paint might be a good option as it offers a super slippery, low friction finish to prevent slime from attaching to the hull.

Examples of thin film paints:

Interlux’s vc offshore, pettit’s sr-21, do i plan on racing my boat.

If you’re looking for high-performance, opt for a hard bottom paint that can be burnished (wet sanded) to a shiny, slippery, and fast finish.

What are the environmental regulations in my area?

The word “biocide” literally means “life-killer”. The biocides used in anti-fouling paint are harmful to aquatic life (and not particularly healthy for humans to work with). It’s widely accepted that accumulated copper from boat bottom paint is detrimental to the marine environment .

In places like California and Washington state, this has led to new environmental regulations regarding the sale and use of boat bottom paints. Many locales also limit copper accumulation by prohibiting in-the-water hull cleaning.

In response to these health risks and environmental concerns, paint manufacturers have begun to offer more environmentally friendly alternatives, including:

• Water-based, low volatile organic compound (VOC) bottom paints
• Copper-free bottom paints containing photoactive materials and organic biocides.  

These non-toxic, copper-free, and environmentally responsible alternatives to conventional antifouling paints are effective, kinder to the environment, and healthier for the person using them.

Examples of eco-friendlier bottom paints:

Interlux’s micron cf, pettit’s hydrocoat eco.

How many coats of bottom paint do I need?

For ablative paint , a single coat is sufficient for a season, whereas two or three coats of paint are recommended for multi-season use.

For hard paint , one or two coats is generally recommended. Additional coats will just add to more sanding down the road.

If in doubt, check the manufacturer’s recommendations.

How many gallons of bottom paint do I need?

The amount of bottom paint you’ll need depends on the size of your boat and how many coats you apply.

You can use this calculation to give you a rough estimate of how many gallons of paint you’ll need per coat.

Calculate the area you’ll need to paint:

[Length of your hull LOA (in feet) x Beam (in feet) x .85]

Then, divide it by the paint coverage listed by the manufacturer.

Area to paint (in square feet) / coverage (in square feet per gallon)

For example, a 35-foot sailboat with a 12-foot beam using a paint with a coverage of 400 square feet per gallon would be:

[35 x 12 x .85] / 400 = .9 gallons per coat

With this information in hand, you can now walk confidently into your local chandlery and make an informed decision on antifouling paint. It’s time to paint!

Fiona McGlynn is an award-winning boating writer who created Waterborne as a place to learn about living aboard and traveling the world by sailboat. She has written for boating magazines including BoatUS, SAIL, Cruising World, and Good Old Boat. She’s also a contributing editor at Good Old Boat and BoatUS Magazine. In 2017, Fiona and her husband completed a 3-year, 13,000-mile voyage from Vancouver to Mexico to Australia on their 35-foot sailboat.

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Favorite Bottom Paints by Region

Reader survey reflects localized preferences among brands, types..

Lately, readers have been asking us about which antifouling paints serve well for specific bodiesof water (or type of water). So, in this article-our annual spring bottom paint report-we will try to answer these questions with some recent reader survey data and sales reports from the two biggest brands in the U.S. (Pettit Paints and Interlux Yacht Finishes). But before we get into the regional breakdowns, a quick recap on choosing bottom paint and our paint testing program is in order. If youre a longtime subscriber, feel free to skip down to the Current Testing section.

Paint Types

We loosely classify bottom paints into two categories: hard paints and ablative paints. Hard paints hold up well to underwater cleaning and can usually be burnished smooth for racing. However, they leave behind paint layers that build up and eventually must be sanded off. Also, hard paints can lose their punch if they are stored ashore for too long and may require a light sanding before re-launch to re-activate the formula. Most ablative paints can be hauled and re-launched without worry.

Ablative paints, which wear away so they don’t build up paint layers over time, come in two main types: bottom-tier workboat ablatives that slough away to activate more biocide and more expensive copolymer ablatives that release biocides at a more controlled rate.

Although ablatives are sometimes called soft paints, some, like the new dual-resin ablatives, are relatively hard. These usually resist light underwater cleaning and are suitable for applying to trailered boats.

Hard and ablative paints are further divided into five broad sub-categories that often overlap: freshwater paints, aluminum paints, racing paints, water-based paints (easy for the do-it-yourselfer to apply), and eco-friendly paints. Paint types are indicated in the accompanying tables, and the best paints in each category earn Practical Sailors Recommended ratings.

Current Testing

In this issue, we have four tables presenting results from two different test-panel sets. The six-month tables present our first look at a test of 66 paints that were submerged at our test site in Sarasota, Fla., in June 2013. The table Antifouling Paints at 16 months wraps up data from a smaller test of paints, many of them copper-free, introduced in 2012; there is a short article along with the table, analyzing those results.

As for the newer panel set, most of the paints are still fighting hard growth fairly well, as would be expected after such a short time in the water. A couple of the newer copper-free blends are struggling, but most of the panels rinsed clean when they were sluiced with water prior to being rated. Each paint is rated either Poor (hard growth), Fair (heavy soft growth), Good (light slime), or Excellent (spotless); the ratings are relative to each panel set. For details on our test protocol and rating procedures, see the online version of this article.

The 2013 panel set features several new paints using Econea, a pesticide recently introduced to take the place cuprous oxide (copper), which is falling out of favor for environmental reasons. As states such as California clamp down on copper use in antifoulings, these paints offer a glimpse of what a copper-free future may look like for sailors. Econea is still in the experimental stage, in our view, as paint makers try to find a formula that is both effective and affordable. (Econea is more expensive than copper.)

So far, the copper-free results have been mixed. Although a couple of Econea paints are doing extremely well, our only failure after six months was a new water-based Econea paint from Pettit. Epaints have been the most reliable copper-free paints in our tests, but even they can’t keep up with the longevity of copper paints.

It is important to remember that unlike boats, our test panels do not move, and our test waters may be very different from the ones you sail. These test results are one of many data points to consider when narrowing down your choices of bottom paints.

Regional Preferences

As it turns out, the preferences in our reader survey closely match the general trends observed by major marine paint manufacturers Pettit and lnterlux. Budget-priced ablative paints had a more loyal following in the north, while sailors in Florida and Southern California, where sailing is year-round, gravitated toward copper-loaded modified epoxies like Trinidad and Ultra.

Northeast and Mid-Atlantic

In the Northeast, where seasons are short and many sailors apply a new coat of bottom paint every year, the budget-priced paints, particularly ablatives (because they don’t build up year after year) like Interluxs ACT, had a larger following than in other regions. A high percentage of sailors in this area also used high-strength ablatives such as Interlux Micron Extra. We presume these boats are being relaunched the following season without being repainted.

Favorites from Interlux included: Micron 66, Micron Extra, Fiberglass Bottomkote NT, and ACT. Pettit paints popular in this region included the ablatives SSA, Vivid, and Hydrocoat, and the budget-priced hard paint Unepoxy.

In the warmer waters of the Southeast, the more potent modified epoxy (hard) paints were predominant. The single most popular paint in this region was Pettits Trinidad, although Interluxs Micron paints (Micron 66, Micron CSC, and Micron Extra) combined for a higher number of followers. Pettits Ultima SR 60, a high-strength ablative, and Hydrocoat SR, a water-based paint that attracts do-it-yourselfers with its easy cleanup and no odor, were also top contenders. Other popular Interlux paints included value-priced Bottomkote NT. Sea Hawks Cukote also turned up good numbers on the survey.

Great Lakes

Great Lakes boaters almost universally agreed that Interluxs VC17 was the paint of choice. This freshwater paint goes on about six times thinner than most antifouling paints, it dries quickly, and requires almost no prep work year to year. It has always done poorly in our saltwater tests, although some New England racers who keep their hulls scrubbed each week use it because the finish is so slick and smooth.

Other top sellers for Interlux in this region are Bottomkote NT, ACT and Micron CSC. Pettits thin-film, freshwater paint SR21, and mainstays Hydrocoat and Vivid have a strong following in this region as well.

Both Washington and California are moving to eliminate or reduce the use of copper-based antifouling paints among recreational boaters in their waters, but boaters are resisting the change. In the northern waters from San Francisco to the Canadian border, where soft growth such as algae and tunicates are the chief problem, the ablative paints had a larger contingent of followers. Micron 66 and Micron Extra remained popular choices among PS readers. Pettits Ultima SR also notched good numbers in the Washington area. Other Interlux paints that did well in the northwest were the aluminum-friendly paint Trilux 33 and Micron CSC.

In Southern California, where bottom scrubbing is part of the gameplan and anti-copper sentiment is taking hold, harder paints and copper-free paints saw more service. Pettits Trinidad was a favorite among PS readers. Copper-loaded Ultra, water-based Bottomkote Aqua, and copper-free Trilux 33 lead Interluxs roster here. Perrenial favorites Hydrocoat and Eco Vivid round out top picks from Pettit.

Looking at these reports, along with the overall top picks and our top 20 long-term paints, a few names stand at the top in almost every region: Pettits Trinidad, Hydrocoat, and Vivid, and the Interlux Micron series. West Marine paints (PCA Gold and CPP), Blue Water 67 SCX, Sea Hawk Cukote, and Epaint 2000 also made the list, but these were sprinkled throughout the country. These are excellent paints for multi-season use in heavy-fouling waters, but they are overkill for a boater who hauls out and paints every year, in our opinion. For single-season sailors, a budget-priced ablative will serve just fine.

Remember that performance can vary from harbor to harbor, so the information in this report should be regarded as additional data to support your own research with your local yard owners and other sailors in your area.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

So is aluminum as bad for the water as copper . Which paints have aluminum ?

My 2 cents. I have never scrubbed bottom paint, but scrape it with a 8-10 inch drywall knife. In my experience cruising MX and South the paint lasts exponentially longer and it’s much faster and easier to remove hard growth and clean the prop.

Fantastic article Darrell! I will definitely be using this info to inform our customers on this topic. Here in North Carolina, we get some pretty rapid growth, and more often than not, we recommend either Pettit or Interlux as our preferred brand. However, we are getting quite a few people asking about the Sea Hawk Cukote.

Do you know much about the new Pettit Odyssey Triton paint? I have recently heard about it, and it sounds promising.

Thanks again for the detailed info!

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Small boats with stained bottom require single pass.

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Painting the Bottom of your boat with a high quality anti-fouling paint is one way to ensure that your boat doesn't get blisters on the bottom and to provide lasting protection.

Anti-fouling life depends on how often the vessel actually moves. stagnant boats collect more foul and will lose more anti-foul protection next time underway. .

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