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Lightweight and Small Outboard Motors for Sailboats

• By Ed Sherman
• Updated: April 22, 2019

When you’re facing strong winds and you need to get somewhere fast, it’s time to break out a small outboard such as an aluminum genny. A dependable outboard that has enough horsepower to get you to the racecourse and back, yet is light enough not to be a drag on your race results, is invaluable. Most racing sailors don’t need as much horsepower as they might think.

An eight-horsepower outboard, for example, will push a 30-foot, 6,000-pound boat along at 6.5 knots. Anything bigger will weigh more than 90 pounds and isn’t suitable for lifting on and off the stern. Here’s our roundup of some of the best outboard motors for sailboats, and some help in deciphering what’s right for your boat.

We focus our attention on engines available under nine different brand names. Two of the best-known names, Johnson and Evinrude, have dropped out of the small-engine end of the market as part of parent company Bombardier Corporation’s restructuring of these two companies. Currently they’re advertising the availability of six- and eight-horsepower four-stroke models in 2003. Another dropout in the mini-engine market is Suzuki. Their smallest two-stroke is a five-horsepower unit and in the four-stroke configuration, a 9.9 horsepower. Brand and corporate shuffling aside, of particular interest is whether the companies that are building nine horsepower- and-below engines have incorporated four-stroke technology into the lower horsepower range, since it’s now beginning to dominate the mid-sized and larger outboard engine market. The answer to that is yes, to a point.

Two or Four Stroke Outboards for Sailboats

Outboards are either two or four-stroke engines, and the four-strokes have definitely gained favor in recent years for several reasons: they’re quiet, they use much less fuel, and they run more cleanly. Since no oil is mixed with the fuel, the classic two-cycle smokescreen isn’t a factor. In a four-stroke, the piston reciprocates inside the cylinder four times for each power stroke (that is, each time fuel combusts). Rather than opening ports cut into the sides of the cylinder, intake and exhaust valves controlled by a camshaft allow a fuel/air mix to enter the combustion chamber with the suction created by the piston as it moves inward in its cylinder. Exhaust gases are forced out of the cylinder as the piston moves outward.

By carefully designing the camshaft, engineers minimize the amount of time that the intake and exhaust valves are both open, considerably reducing the amount of unburned fuel that exits with the exhaust stream. The end result? Fewer emissions and greater economy.

But they do have at least one distinct disadvantage for the racing sailor, and that’s weight. For example, four-stroke engines in the five-horsepower category are about 20 percent heavier than comparable two-stroke engines of the same horsepower. The good news, however, is that only amounts to between 10 and 15 pounds, depending upon the engine. Four-stroke engines cost more, also, but the improved technology may be well worth it.

If you’re totally weight and price conscious, you’ll want a two-stroke engine. But, if you think you can lose the weight elsewhere, a clean, quiet four-stroke without the hassle of mixing fuel could be the answer. In fact, Mercury/ Mariner’s newest six-horse four-stroke engines are actually 18 pounds lighter than their older two-stroke equivalents–a testament to the benefits of improved design and technology.

Environmental regulations are pushing manufacturers towards four-strokes as well. Four-strokes meet emission control standards, and US Environmental Protection Agency regulations mandate that new outboard and personal watercraft engines reduce engine hydrocarbon emissions by 75 percent by 2006. Environmentally conscious sailors should look for either a C.A.R.B. (California Air Resources Board) “very-low” or “ultra-low” designator, or a specification indicating 2006 EPA compliance.

How Much Horsepower Do You Need?

The amount of power you’ll need depends on several key factors. The first consideration is the weight of your boat. The second is the boat’s wetted surface. Full-keel boats not only weigh more but also have more surface area to push through the water. My rule of thumb here is to start with a two-horsepower engine for small centerboard and keelboats less than 1,000 pounds, and add one horsepower for every 1,000 pounds of displacement. For more exact, albeit complex formulae, I suggest The Propeller Handbook by Dave Gerr (McGraw-Hill 2001).

Compare your boat’s dimensions against what existing classes have found to work; for example, a Melges 24 at 1,650 pounds is typically rigged with a three-horsepower short-shaft engine, while a J/80 at 2,900 pounds can still squeak by with a long-shaft, three-horsepower engine. A 1,790 pound J/22, on the other hand, typically uses a four-horsepower long-shaft engine. On the larger end of boats using outboards, you’ll find the outboard version of the J/29, at 6,000 pounds, requires a 7.5-horsepower long-shaft engine.

If you are intending to do some cruising, or even long deliveries to regattas, an option that’s available on some engines is a high-thrust propeller. On larger boats, this option can save weight over a bigger engine and really make a difference when trying to punch through a strong tide or headwind. High-thrust props cost more and are less fuel efficient–but they can save weight and give you more power.

Once you’ve determined how big an engine you’ll need, the next step is to begin comparing features in the given horsepower range you’ve selected. There are nine manufacturers included in our roundup, but some of their brands are identical products with different labeling. In the smaller sizes, the Mercury and Mariner brands are identical. As for the Nissan and Tohatsu engines, Tohatsu builds them all. Yamaha, Suzuki, and Honda all offer competitive products as well, but they’re all independent brands.

What to Look For in Lightweight Outboard Motors

In the small engine sizes, specific features to look for can be reduced to several key items. For some, having an integral fuel tank will be important. The smallest engines have integral tanks that hold only a quart or two of fuel–good enough for an hour or two of operation. No manufacturer lists fuel consumption because the size boat the engine is pushing and the wind and wave conditions vary widely. Compare the size of the tanks, and whether you can attach a remote tank for longer trips. The extra weight and space of a separate fuel tank will be a burden on smaller ultra-light boats.

The availability of long- and short-shaft versions in the horsepower size you need is also important. Honda for example offers 20 and 25-inch transom height (long or short shaft) right down to their smallest BF2 (two-horsepower) model. Mercury and Mariner only offer a 15-inch short-shaft version on their 3.3- and 2.5-horsepower engines. Shaft length is measured from the top of the bracket to the tip of the shaft–make sure your shaft is long enough to position the propeller and cooling water intake deep enough below the waterline to avoid cavitation when the boat pitches through waves.

Other specifications that are worth comparing are whether the engine is equipped with a simple forward and neutral gearshift or if the unit has a full functioning forward-neutral-reverse gear unit. If you’re going to be doing long deliveries to regattas, or in the larger sizes for a racer/cruiser configuration, consider whether or not a charging system is part of the engine package, and if so, it’s output. Will it be adequate to keep your battery recharged and power things like a tiller pilot and running lights? Also, on the larger engines check to see if electric starting is available, or offered as a standard feature. Having it can be the difference between pain and pleasure.

If you are racing in a strict one-design group, check any class rules that apply to outboard engines. Issues related to brackets, storage of the engine and/or alternative weight might be issues, so be sure to check with your class before making any final decision.

Ed Sherman is the author of Outboard Engines, Maintenance, Troubleshooting and Repair, International Marine/McGraw Hill and a contributing editor to Sailing World.

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Marine Expert

8 Best Small Outboard Motors – (Reviews & Guide 2022)

Looking for the best small outboard motor out there? This piece of equipment is essential for most sailors out there, so picking a great model is important.

That’s why we prepared small outboard motor reviews to see which models have gathered a lot of appreciation on the part of the boaters that have invested in them. These are all capable of excellent performance and are also easy to maintain. You can also find our comprehensive buying guide where you can learn what exactly to look out for.

See The Quick Comparison Chart

Advantages of Small Outboard Motors

If you have been wondering whether this type of motor addresses your requirements or not, you’re going to enjoy reading the following section. We have put together a list of some of the most significant benefits that you will get if you decide to start using an outboard motor for your boat.

1. Easy to Replace

The first and most obvious advantage is that the engine can be replaced very easily in case of failure. An outboard motor is capable of improving a boat’s handling since it provides articulated thrust unlike rudders used with inboards. Most modern outboards are able to offer an excellent power-to-weight ratio, especially when put side by side with the other options out there.

2. Size and Space

Small outboard motors are easy to handle, lighter than their heftier counterparts, and they also occupy less space on your boat. Their name is ‘outboard’ for a reason, meaning that you can use the amount of space that they put at your disposal for anything else — a boat seat or use it as storage for something you might need while out on the water.

3. Maintenance & Dependability

A few years ago, diesel inboards would have been more likely to be yard-maintained by a professional mechanic, and therefore, they would have been pricier to own and use compared to outboards.

If you have to upgrade or replace an engine or prop, it’s far easier to do it with an outboard. Since everything is at your disposal, you can also take a good look and see whether the motor has sustained damage from an impact, for example.

Outboards run on gas whereas inboards are mostly diesel-powered. You can, of course, come across gas inboards, but for safety reasons, diesel ones are recommended. Diesel is about twenty percent more expensive than gasoline, so outboard motors make it cheaper for you to do your boating.

On top of everything, over the past decade, diesel motors have become less and less popular, also because they produce a lot more pollution. Some countries have forbidden diesel cars completely and are forcing their owners to upgrade to a gas automobile. At this point, we don’t know if this will happen with diesel motors for boats, but it’s quite likely that it will.

Small outboards motors that don’t come with any bells and whistles can be quite affordable. While the cost might not be the most important aspect to consider, it does make a difference, especially if you are on a budget.

However, there are expensive outboard motors, too, such computer-controlled models, many of which can be quite sophisticated.

Best Small Outboard Motors Comparison Chart

Best Small Outboard Motor Reviews

1. us deliver outboard motor 6.5hp water cooling 4-stroke.

The 6-HP engine gives you all the power that you need. It runs on gas and it does tend to make a lot of noise, so you do need to consider that before investing your hard-earned cash in this one. The unit doesn’t wear more than 100kg, which makes it lighter than some of its competitors.

It is a great match for rubber boats, inflatable boats, but also some types of fishing boats. As for the fuel efficiency, we haven’t come across any complaints in this sense. We also couldn’t help noticing that most of the feedback acquired by this unit is favorable.

• Comes with a booklet, tubing, cotter pin, a start rope, a start key, and a pump impeller, but also a toolbox and other accessories
• Has been approved for use by the CE
• Max speed (r/min) is estimated at 5000-6000
• Very powerful, given its 6.5-HP
• Newly designed handles make it easy to transport
• It’s not the cheapest engine in this line.

2. NOPTEG Hangkai Water Cooled 2 Stroke 3.5 HP Outboard Boat Motor

You can’t compare a 6.5HP engine with a 3.5HP one, but you can definitely opt for this one if your boat is light and you don’t need a lot of power. The cooling technology is another aspect to keep in mind, and this one is water-cooled, which is convenient and reliable.

On top of everything, the NOPTEG alternative is eco-friendly, energy-efficient, and also easy to carry. The compact design makes it easy for you to service your engine before you store it for the winter. You don’t have to worry about anything in terms of durability as this one is made from high-grade marine material, so it doesn’t corrode easily.

• Perfect for fishing boats, inflatable boats, but also small yachts
• Covered by a 1-year warranty
• Doesn’t make a lot of noise
• It weighs in at about 21 lbs, so it’s quite lightweight
• Durable and easy to operate
• It can smell like rubber when it’s running, which can bother some boaters.

3. SEA DOG WATER SPORTS 4 Stroke 4.0HP Outboard Motor

As for the waters in which you can rely on this motor, you’ll be glad to know that it works both in saltwater and in freshwater. It can be installed on a variety of watercraft from fishing boats, canoes, and sailboats to good old kayaks.

Durability is not a factor that you should worry about if you decide to opt for this model. It boasts a compact structure, but it is made to be anti-corrosive, meaning that it’s not going to become the victim of rust anytime soon. It’s also quite lightweight and easy to carry around.

• Modern fuel-saving technology
• Can be installed on a broad range of ships
• No assembly required
• It starts easily, with almost no effort and no issues whatsoever
• Backed by a 1-year warranty
• It calls for a financial investment compared to other small and budget-friendly choices in the same line, but we might argue that it pays off in the end.

4. SEA DOG WATER SPORTS Outboard Motor 2.5 HP 2 Stroke

Nevertheless, it still makes a great option for watercrafts such as small yachts, fishing boats, inflatable boats, as well as sailboats. It’s durable, economical, and compact, so you can service it with as little effort as possible. What’s also worth noting about it is that it boasts an anti-corrosive construction.

Being compatible with both freshwater and saltwater, you can basically use this engine anywhere you please or wherever you do your boating or fishing. It’s a single-cylinder, 2-stroke, air-cooled model and it works with less noise, especially compared to others. As a final note, this model works with gasoline, so do keep that in mind when making your decision.

• Works great based on the feedback it has received
• Offers excellent power for a small boat
• Offers amazing value for every cent spent
• The motor can be tilted
• More stable and reliable compared to traditional land motors
• Since it’s been described as a weed eater, try to avoid using it in waters with heavy cover.

5. HANGKAI 6HP 2 Stroke Outboard Motor with Water Cooling System

It’s also worth noting that it comes with 360-degree steering rotation for reverse without any gear shifting whatsoever. You might want to consider this unit if you are in the market for a convenient and easy-to-operate engine that’s also fuel-efficient and eco-friendly.

Despite its quite large tank capacity, the motor boasts a compact design. This is one of the reasons that makes it easy to winterize and carry from one place to another and even install on another boat, if you’re looking to change your watercraft. As is the case with some of the other engines described in this selection, this one is CE certified.

• Suitable for freshwater and saltwater alike
• Works on a variety of ships
• Comes with a 2.5L fuel tank capacity
• Doesn’t take a lot of skills and effort to operate
• Convenient, reliable, and reasonably quiet
• Avoid starting the motor on the shore or using it when you come out of the water — this can result in irreparable damage.

6. Sky 2-Stroke 2.5HP Superior Engine Outboard Motor

Furthermore, the 2-stroke single cylinder engine can get you moving on the water efficiently and easily, but also in as little time as possible. The 2.5HP motor makes the perfect choice for inflatable boats or small fishing boats.

Additionally, you might want to know that this engine comes with a compact and durable construction, which means that you will get as much use of it in the future as possible. Plus, it’s also easy to store and carry, which makes winterizing it a breeze. Last, but not least, we’d like to add that the motor doesn’t make as much noise as you might expect it to.

• Suitable for freshwater and saltwater
• Lightweight and easy to carry
• Compact and durable
• Perfect for small inflatable boats
• This one isn’t powerful enough for bigger and heavier boats, so we would recommend against purchasing it if that’s the type of watercraft that you own.

7. Coleman Powersports 2.6 HP Outboard Motor

The easy start TCI ignition, the 360-degree steering, as well as the fact that this motor has been both CE and EPA approved are all things worth writing home about. It has been specifically engineered to offer reliable and quiet operation. That’s why it makes one of the best options out there for inflatable boats and small boats.

Needless to say, you are also free to rely on this outboard motor as an auxiliary trolling engine. On the other hand, it calls for a significant financial investment, so do keep that in mind when deciding between this one and another unit.

• Adjustable steering friction
• Vibration reduction
• Made with marine aluminum alloy parts for corrosion protection
• Meets EPA and CE standards
• It’s water-cooled, so operation is a breeze
• The fuel shutoff valve works backwards, which might confuse some boaters in the beginning.

8. CLIENSY 4HP 4 Stroke Outboard Motor Boat Engine

The engine is equipped with its own patented air cooling system, which means that you can rely on it for a whole day of fishing. Furthermore, it comes with a 360-degree steering rotation for reverse without any gear shifting, so you also get to operate it conveniently and easily.

If you are worried about durability and safety, you will be happy to know that this unit comes with a lubricating system and a safe twist grip throttle control. This engine makes an excellent alternative for fishing boats, inflatable boats, as well as rubber boats.

• Can be used in freshwater and saltwater
• Weighs in at just 29lbs
• It’s a dry motor, so it uses air cooling, not water cooling
• Very easy to grease and get ready for the winter
• Fairly inexpensive
• This unit wouldn’t be strong enough to pull a raft or to be used for water skiing.

What is an Outboard Motor?

Similarly to many other marine power systems, the engine spins a shaft. The shaft consequently spins a propeller shaft, and the latter spins a propeller so as to create thrust.

If you have been trying to tell whether alongside the rest of your boating gear , you should consider using an outboard motor, we’re here to help you understand just that. An outboard motor simplifies the boat building process as both an inboard or stern drive would have to be mounted to the motor, lined up, and then attached to the drive system.

Like other types of equipment, from the models from our boat seat reviews to boat anchor reviews , outboard motors have come a long way in the past years. They were invented at the end of the 19th century and they initially were 1.5-horsepower motors that could be clamped to the back of any rowboat. Later on, 2-stroke and 4-stroke motors were invented.

Different Types of Outboard Motors

1. Two-Stroke Outboards

If you are both price and weight conscious, what you need is a two-stroke small outboard motor. It effectively produces the compression strokes of the plunger and its consumption in just a single action.

Two-stroke outboards are usually lighter, cheaper, and they also have a simpler construction compared to their four-stroke counterparts. This is what makes them easy to maintain. They are also quite rugged, in spite of their size and somewhat ‘limited’ capacity.

2. Four Stroke Outboards

4-stroke engines have become more and more popular in recent years, and that’s because they use less fuel, they are quiet, and they also tend to run more cleanly. There is no oil mixed with the fuel, so the two-cycle smokescreen is automatically eliminated.

Four-stroke outboards also have a greater economy and fewer emissions, so if you’re not so particular about the size (since they tend to be bigger and heavier), you might want to consider this type.

The weight is something definitely not worth writing home about when it comes to four-stroke outboards. For instance, four-stroke engines that are in the 5-HP category are about 20% heavier than 2-stroke engines that have the same horsepower. They also tend to cost a pretty penny compared to their 2-stroke counterparts.

The nice thing about four-stroke outboard motors, though, is that they are in compliance with environmental regulations. This, of course, can’t be said about 2-stroke motors.

3. Cooling Categories

Every engine, no matter whether it is small or large, or four-stroke or two-stroke, will have to be cooled using one method or the other. To date, manufacturers have come up with two types of cooling:

• Air cooling
• Water cooling

Air-cooled systems cool down the engine thanks to a fan. They are quite rare, they’re small, and they don’t seem to do that good of a job.

Water-cooled systems , on the other hand, are a great choice in most situations. They obviously rely on water to cool the motor. Most compact outboard motors rely on closed-loop cooling where the surrounding water is used for the purpose. However, the water never gets into the motor or the boat.

Small Outboard Motor Buying Guide

It contains all of the essential aspects that you ought to mull over before you make up your mind on a specific model. Check it out below.

1. Horsepower

This factor is by far the most important one to consider when shopping for a boat motor. Technically, bigger is better, but the truth is that you have to pick the right horsepower for the boat type and size that you own. If you have a small boat and you get a large engine, it might affect the ship’s stability. Plus, the additional power can cause damage to the transom.

On the other hand, using a too small outboard motor on a boat that’s too large can effectively burn out the engine due to excessive demand and drag. Making sure that the size and horsepower of the motor match your boat can provide you with reliability, but also stability.

There is an easy way of telling what type of HP motor you should get. You can look at the National Marine Manufacturers’ Association Certification Plate, which should normally be found inside your boat stern. There you will find the horsepower rating that is recommended for your type of ship.

2. Transom Height

The boat transom is the part of the backend where you will mount your portable outboard motor. The reason this part is so important is that the thrust and momentum of the engine will be transferred to the whole boat through the transom.

Look at the transom height when shopping for any outboard motor as you need to make sure that it is a good fit for your type of vessel. You can measure the transom height of your boat by measuring from the top center section to the bottom center of your hull.

3. Electric Start

Recoil start engines can be difficult now and then, but today’s recoil start motors are easier to work with thanks to their automatic decompression. This feature effectively bleeds off cylinder pressure so as to reduce the pulling force.

There are outboard motors out there that have an electric start. The core advantage of an electric start is that it can get the engine running with just one push of a button. It can also give you some reassurance when it comes to safety. If you end up in a rocky shore area, you can just press the electric start button and get away from danger.

4. Fuel Type

Gasoline can be a little more expensive and it can also put less strain on the engine valve seats, especially when compared to propane. It has been the fuel of choice for many years now, and many boaters will find it comfortable to work with.

However, propane has been gathering a lot of appreciation, too, and that’s because it’s more efficient and also cleaner than gasoline. It will also not gum up or degrade the engine as fast. In addition to this, propane engines start quicker and more easily as the fuel is effectively pressurized.

If you already use propane as a fuel for other types of equipment, such as your grill, for instance, you might want to eliminate gasoline altogether and choose a motor that can be used with propane. You might want to do this out of pure convenience.

5. Controls

For manual tilting, you should find a tiller handle that you can just push down and snap from and into any angle. Most portable outboard motors come with a power tilt and this can be a great feature to have, but it can be difficult to work with on larger engines.

After launching your ship, you will have to tilt it down into the water, so you might need to tilt your motor up, especially in shallow areas. You’ll need to tilt it back down when you get back to deeper waters. You should also tilt up your outboard motor when you are retrieving your boat at the boat launch.

There are modern outboard motors out there that are built with EFI engines. These ensure controlled throttle response and reliable and fast starting no matter the weather. On top of everything, EFI engines are known for not gumming up like carburetor engines. They also call for a lot less maintenance in the long run.

Although the vast majority of boaters seem to prefer the simplicity of carburetor engines, many will learn to appreciate how efficiently and clean EFI models can run, even in inclement weather or when it’s very cold outdoors.

7. Size & Weight

The size can matter a lot in the grand scheme of things. If the engine is too sizable for your ship, it can make the latter lose its balance. This can mean that you and the rest of the people in the boat can be put in a dangerous situation.

Picking the right size of motor can be done easily nowadays since most manufacturing companies can be contacted and they can give recommendations with regard to which engine size works best for what ship size.

As for the weight, it also has a say in your decision. If the motor is too heavy, it might not work properly, and it might also make the front of your watercraft lift up and essentially modify its position on the water. Under such a circumstance, a boat can lose power and speed, which has a negative impact on fuel efficiency, too.

As we have already mentioned, the majority of small outboard motors that are available for sale right now are either two-stroke or four-stroke. If fuel economy and being environmentally friendly matter a lot to you, a four-stroke engine is the best choice of the two.

On the other hand, two-stroke engines are smaller, have a simpler construction, and they also tend to cost significantly less compared to their four-stroke counterparts.

9. Shaft Length

All outboard motors come with a shaft, and it can be either short or long. If you have a lower boat, then you should definitely select a motor that comes with a shorter shaft length.

On the other hand, higher boats call for longer shafts. The length of the shaft goes a long way when it comes to determining the performance and cooling system of the motor.

10. Build Quality

You can’t really assess the construction quality of a small outboard motor just by having a look at some pictures online. Make sure you read as many reviews of the outboard motor as possible before ordering it. Additionally, we would like to note that in this case, the brand actually matters.

It is universally acknowledged that bigger brands make their products using better quality materials. Plus, if you get a model made by a reputable company, you will also benefit from a generous return and refund policy in case you come across any problem.

How to Install & Use a Lightweight Outboard Motor

General Tips

• Make sure that the engine is in the correct position.
• Tighten it and look at how you can use it in relation to your hand or other type of operation. The middle part of the outboard should be moved up and down with as much ease and convenience as possible.
• Check the manufacturing brand’s manual and then look at the pictures provided and compare them with the reality. If the motor doesn’t seem to be well-installed, call a technician.
• Before using the motor for the first time, make sure that it is fastened as best as possible so that it doesn’t detach from the boat when being operated.
• Rely on safety cables to position the motor as best as possible. This will ensure that, in the unlikely event that the motor bumps into an object in the water, it won’t be knocked down from the transom.
• Position the outboard motor’s fuel tank in a well-ventilated area of the boat. Ideally, this part of the boat should also be away from direct sunlight and no more than six feet away from the outboard motor (and less than 3 feet below the fuel connector).
• Always use a startup checklist before anything.

Maintenance & Safety Tips for Portable Outboard Motors

It can be more or less easy to keep your outboard engine in top shape, even if you aren’t a mechanic. A little TLC and preventive maintenance can make sure that your boating is always safe. It can also make sure that the motor runs reliably for many years to come.

Regular Maintenance

Prevention is worth a pound of cure, they say, and we couldn’t agree more. Here is a checklist of things that you ought to ensure on a regular basis.

• Check the fuel line for worn spots and cracks.
• Make sure that the fuel primer bulb isn’t cracked or pliable.
• Ensure that the fuel line fittings don’t leak and seat right.
• Check the clamps for corrosion or rust, especially those on the fuel line.
• Check the fuel tank for corrosion or any other type of damage.
• Check the tank vent so as to ensure that it aspirates correctly.
• Regularly check for any water present in the fuel.

After Every Trip

1. Flush Out the Motor

Remove the water using a hose connected to the water outlet and then run the engine until there’s no more exiting the hose.

2. Burn Off Any Excess Fuel

Turn off the fuel tap and run the engine until it naturally stops. This will get rid of the fuel in the carburetion system. Needless to say, make sure that the battery switch is turned off when the motor isn’t in use.

3. Check for Leaks

Remove the engine cowling and inspect it for fuel or water leaks. If you find one, get in touch with your local mechanic as he or she can perform repairs before things get worse. Pipe clips can also become loose quite easily, and if you notice any signs of rust or corrosion, you should change that clip.

4. Use WD40

Spraying the engine with WD40 can protect it against corrosion. After getting rid of any rust present on the motor parts, you should use an appropriate lubricant. As time-consuming as these tasks might seem, they are essential in maintaining your outboard for as long as possible and in as good condition as ever.

5. Fresh Fuel

When the season ends, drain the fuel from the tank. It goes without saying that you should dispose of it correctly. Grease everything before storing your boat and get in touch with a mechanic so as to perform a thorough check of your motor. The same should be done when the season starts, again.

FAQs About Small Outboard Motors

1. how to winterize an outboard motor.

Winterizing an outboard involves several steps. First, fill up the gas tank, which gets rid of the moisture buildup over the winter months. Check the bulbs, hoses, and connectors and replace them if there is any damage present. Change the water separator and fuel filter and add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank — this makes sure that the gas is fresh in the spring.

Use a motor flusher and while the water’s running, start the motor and allow it to go idle for a quarter of an hour. Spray a fogging agent through the carburetors until you see smoke coming out the exhaust and the engine kills. The oil lowers the chance of any moisture occurring inside the motor.

Spin the flywheel by hand several times to distribute the oil as evenly as possible. Check the spark plugs for wear. Coat the engine body with silicone anti-corrosion spray as this will prevent moisture from sticking to its parts.

Remove the propeller and inspect for weeds or fishing line or whatever else that might have become entangled around the shaft. If the seals are obviously damaged, they have to be replaced. Then coat the shaft with lube and replace the prop. You have now winterized your outboard motor.

2. Where Should Water Come Out On an Outboard Motor?

Water should be removed via the hose attached to the water pump. However, there can be situations in which you might notice that water is coming out of your exhaust pipe, for example.

You should know that cooling water can exit through the exhaust and it’s absolutely normal. It’s a part of the cooling system, along with the pee stream. When you are not moving, the exhaust can even bubble out from the lower unit as it exits out through the prop while you are underway. There’s nothing to worry about, in this case.

3. How to Build an Outboard Motor Stand?

Building a motor stand really isn’t that difficult. You do have to make sure that it is a good fit for the engine that you have on your hands, though. For example, for a 550lb engine, you’d need bottom runners that would have to be 4×4 3’, 2 feet behind and 1 in the front, and a height notched 1” into the bottom runners.

You’d also need a 12-motor mounting plate, 2×4 side support and one behind the upper legs, and 3/4″ side plates. You can use glue, screws, and lags, and even add casters later on. There are a lot of free instructions on the Internet, as well as tutorials and tips.

As you might have been able to tell, picking the best small outboard motor from the plethora of the models that are available these days can be quite challenging. We hope that our small outboard motor reviews have assisted you in making the right decision for your boat and your needs and preferences.

Just remember to do as much research as possible before opting for one unit or the other. Go through as many consumer reports as your time allows you to as other boaters can let you know what mishaps they have encountered, especially in terms of installation, operation, and maintenance.

About Peter Richardson

Peter Richardson decided that he needs to balance out the sedentary lifestyle of a software developer by getting out there more. He found passion in none other than – boats. This website represents everything he learned along the way. Finding the right equipment for your boat is no easy task, and that is what Peter’s articles aim to help you with.

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20 Best Small Sailboats for the Weekender

• By Mark Pillsbury
• Updated: May 24, 2024

In order to go cruising, most of us require a sailboat with a head, a galley, and bunks. The boat, likely a 30-footer and more often a 40-footer, will have electronics for navigation and entertainment, refrigeration if the trip is longer than a coastal hop, an engine for light wind, and, depending on our appetites for food and fun, perhaps a genset to power our toys and appliances.

To go sailing , however, all we really need is a hull, mast, rudder, and sail. To experience the pure joy of sheeting in and scooting off across a lake, bay, or even the open ocean, there’s nothing better than a small sailboat – we’re talking sailboats under 25 feet. You can literally reach out and touch the water as it flows past. You instantly feel every puff of breeze and sense every change in trim.

Some of the boats in this list are new designs, others are time-tested models from small sailboat manufacturers, but every one is easy to rig, simple to sail, and looks like a whole lot of fun either for a solo outing on a breezy afternoon or to keep family and friends entertained throughout your entire sailing season. This list is made up of all types of sailboats , and if you’re looking for a list of some of the best small sailboats for beginners, you’ll find exactly that here.

Any one of these popular boats could be labeled as a trailerable sailboat, daysailer, or even a weekender sailboat. And while most would be labeled as a one or two person sailboat, some could comfortably fit three or even four people.

– CHECK THE WEATHER – The weather changes all the time. Always check the forecast and prepare for the worst case. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

Marblehead 22 Daysailer

If you have an eye for elegant lines and your heart goes pitter-patter over just the right amount of overhang beneath a counter transom, the Marblehead 22 daysailer, designed by Doug Zurn and built by Samoset Boatworks in Boothbay, Maine, will definitely raise your pulse. Traditional-looking above the waterline and modern beneath, the cold-molded hull sports a deep bulb keel and a Hall Spars carbon-fiber mast with a wishbone rig and square-top main. The 11-foot-9-inch cockpit can seat a crowd, and a small cuddy forward will let you stow your friends’ gear for the day. samosetboatworks.com

Catalina 22 Sport

Many a harbor plays host to an active fleet of Catalina 22s, one of the most popular small sailboats over the years, given its basic amenities and retractable keel, which allows it to be easily trailered. Recently, the company introduced the Catalina 22 Sport, an updated design that can compete with the older 22s. The boat features a retractable lead keel; a cabin that can sleep four, with a forward hatch for ventilation; and a fractional rig with a mainsail and a roller-furling jib. Lifelines, a swim ladder, and an engine are options, as are cloth cushions; vinyl cushions are standard. The large cockpit will seat a crowd or let a mom-and-pop crew stretch out and enjoy their sail. It’s clear why the Catalina 22 is one of the best sailboats under 25 feet. catalinayachts.com

With its large, open-transom cockpit and sloop rig, the Hunter 22 makes a comfortable daysailer for family and friends. But with its cuddy cabin, twin bunks, optional electrical system, opening screened ports, and portable toilet, a parent and child or a couple could comfortably slip away for an overnight or weekend. Add in the optional performance package, which includes an asymmetric spinnaker, a pole, and a mainsheet traveler, and you could be off to the races. The boat features a laminated fiberglass hull and deck, molded-in nonskid, and a hydraulic lifting centerboard. Mount a small outboard on the stern bracket, and you’re set to go. marlow-hunter.com

Not sure whether you want to race, cruise or just go out for an afternoon sail? Since 1958, sailors have been having a ball aboard the Uffa Fox/George O’Day-designed Daysailer. Fox, who in the 1950s was on the cutting edge of planning-dinghy design, collaborated with Fall River, Massachusetts boatbuilder O’Day Corp. to build the 16-foot Daysailer, a boat that features a slippery hull and a small cuddy cabin that covers the boat roughly from the mast forward. Thousands of Daysailers were built by various builders, and they can be found used for quite affordable prices. There are active racing fleets around the US, and new Daysailers are still in production today, built by Cape Cod Ship Building. capecodshipbuilding.com

BayRaider from Swallow Boats

Easy to rig and trailer, the BayRaider from England’s Swallow Yachts is a relative newcomer to the small-boat market in the United States. Nearly all of its 19 feet 9 inches is open cockpit, though a spray hood can be added to keep the forward sections dry. The BayRaider is ketch-rigged with a gunter-style mainmast. The topmast and mizzen are both carbon-fiber, which is an option for the mainmast as well. The BayRaider can be sailed with a dry hull in lighter conditions or with 300 pounds of water ballast to increase its stability. With the centerboard and hinged rudder raised, the boat can maneuver in even the thinnest water.

$28,900, (904) 234-8779, swallowyachts.com

Big fun can come in small packages, especially if your vessel of choice happens to be the 12 ½-foot Beetle Cat. Designed by John Beetle and first built in 1921, the wooden shallow draft sailboat is still in production today in Wareham, Massachusetts at the Beetle Boat Shop. With a draft of just 2 feet, the boat is well-suited for shallow bays, but equally at home in open coastal waters. The single gaff-rigged sail provides plenty of power in light air and can be quickly reefed down to handle a blow. In a word, sailing a Beetle Cat is fun. beetlecat.com

– LEARN THE NAVIGATION RULES – Know the “Rules of the Road” that govern all boat traffic. Be courteous and never assume other boaters can see you. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

West Wight Potter P 19

With berths for four and a workable galley featuring a cooler, a sink, and a stove, West Wight Potter has packed a lot into its 19-foot-long P 19. First launched in 1971, this is a line of boats that’s attracted a true following among trailer-sailors. The P 19′s fully retractable keel means that you can pull up just about anywhere and go exploring. Closed-cell foam fore and aft makes the boat unsinkable, and thanks to its hard chine, the boat is reportedly quite stable under way. westwightpotter.com

NorseBoat 17.5

Designed for rowing and sailing (a motor mount is optional), the Canadian-built NorseBoat 17.5—one of which was spotted by a CW editor making its way through the Northwest Passage with a two-man crew—features an open cockpit, a carbon-fiber mast, and a curved-gaff rig, with an optional furling headsail set on a sprit. The lapstrake hull is fiberglass; the interior is ply and epoxy. The boat comes standard with two rowing stations and one set of 9-foot oars. The boat is designed with positive flotation and offers good load-carrying capacity, which you could put to use if you added the available canvas work and camping tent. NorseBoats offers a smaller sibling, the 12.5, as well; both are available in kit form.

$19,000, (902) 659-2790, norseboat.com

Montgomery 17

Billed as a trailerable pocket cruiser, the Montgomery 17 is a stout-looking sloop designed by Lyle Hess and built out of fiberglass in Ontario, California, by Montgomery Boats. With a keel and centerboard, the boat draws just under 2 feet with the board up and can be easily beached when you’re gunkholing. In the cuddy cabin you’ll find sitting headroom, a pair of bunks, a portable toilet, optional shore and DC power, and an impressive amount of storage space. The deck-stepped mast can be easily raised using a four-part tackle. The builder reports taking his own boat on trips across the Golfo de California and on visits to California’s coastal islands. Montgomery makes 15-foot and 23-foot models, as well. If you’re in search of a small sailboat with a cabin, the Montgomery 17 has to be on your wish list.

With long overhangs and shiny brightwork, the CW Hood 32 is on the larger end of the daysailer spectrum. Designers Chris Hood and Ben Stoddard made a conscious decision to forego a cabin and head in favor of an open cockpit big enough to bring 4 or 5 friends or family out for an afternoon on the water. The CW Hood 32 is sleek and graceful through the water and quick enough to do some racing, but keeps things simple with a self-tacking jib and controls that can be lead back to a single-handed skipper. A top-furling asymmetrical, electric sail drive and Torqeedo outboard are all optional. The CW Hood 32 makes for a great small family sailboat.  cwhoodyachts.com

Sun Cat from Com-Pac

Shallow U.S. East Coast bays and rock-strewn coasts have long been graced by cat boats, whose large, gaff-rigged mainsails proved simple and powerful both on the wind and, better yet, when reaching and running. The 17-foot-4-inch Sun Cat, built by Com-Pac Yachts, updates the classic wooden cat with its fiberglass hull and deck and the easy-to-step Mastender Rigging System, which incorporates a hinged tabernacle to make stepping the mast a one-person job. If you want a personal sailboat ideal for solo sailing, the Sun Can is a great choice. Belowdecks, the twin 6-foot-5-inch berths and many other features and amenities make this cat a willing weekender.

$19,800, (727) 443-4408, com-pacyachts.com

Catalina 16.5

The Catalina 16.5 sits right in the middle of Catalina Yachts’ line of small sailboats, which range from the 12.5 to the 22 Capri and Sport, and it comes in both an easy-to-trailer centerboard model and a shoal-draft fixed-keel configuration. With the fiberglass board up, the 17-foot-2-inch boat draws just 5 inches of water; with the board down, the 4-foot-5-inch draft suggests good windward performance. Hull and deck are hand-laminated fiberglass. The roomy cockpit is self-bailing, and the bow harbors a good-sized storage area with a waterproof hatch. catalinayachts.com

No roundup of best small sailboats (trailerable and fun too) would be complete without a mention of the venerable Hobie 16, which made its debut in Southern California way back in 1969. The company has introduced many other multihulls since, but more than 100,000 of the 16s have been launched, a remarkable figure. The Hobie’s asymmetric fiberglass-and-foam hulls eliminate the need for daggerboards, and with its kick-up rudders, the 16 can be sailed right up to the beach. Its large trampoline offers lots of space to move about or a good place to plant one’s feet when hanging off the double trapezes with a hull flying. The boat comes with a main and a jib; a spinnaker, douse kit, trailer, and beach dolly are optional features. hobiecat.com

Novice sailors or old salts looking for simplicity could both enjoy sailing the Hunter 15. With a fiberglass hull and deck and foam flotation, the boat is sturdily built. The ample freeboard and wide beam provide stability under way, and the heavy-duty rubrail and kick-up rudder mean that you won’t have to worry when the dock looms or the going grows shallow. Both the 15 and its slightly larger 18-foot sibling come standard with roller-furling jibs.

$6,900/$9,500 (boat-show prices for the 15 and 18 includes trailers), (386) 462-3077, marlow-hunter.com

– CHECK THE FIT – Follow these guidelines to make sure your life jacket looks good, stays comfortable and works when you need it. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

Super Snark

Under various owners, the Snark brand of sailboats, now built by Meyers Boat Co., has been around since the early 1970s. The Super Snark, at 11 feet, is a simple, easily car-topped daysailer that’s fit out with a lateen rig and sail. Billed as unsinkable, the five boats in the company’s line are built with E.P.S. foam, with the external hull and deck vacuum-formed to the core using an A.B.S. polymer. The Super Snark weighs in at 50 pounds, and with a payload capacity of 310 pounds, the boat can carry two.

$970, (800) 247-6275, meyersboat.com

Norseboat 21.5

Built in Canada, the NorseBoat 21.5 is a rugged looking craft that comes in a couple of configurations: one with an open cockpit and small doghouse, and another with a smaller cockpit and cabin that houses a double berth for two adults and optional quarter berths for the kids. Both carry NorseBoat’s distinctive looking carbon fiber gaff-rigged mast with main and jib (a sprit-set drifter is optional), and come with a ballasted stub keel and centerboard. Because of its lightweight design, the boat can be rowed and is easily trailered.

$36,000 (starting), 902-659-2790, norseboat.com

Flying Scot

Talk about time-tested, the 19-foot Flying Scot has been in production since 1957 and remains a popular design today. Sloop rigged, with a conventional spinnaker for downwind work, the boat is an easily sailed family boat as well as a competitive racer, with over 130 racing fleets across the U.S. Its roomy cockpit can seat six to eight, though the boat is often sailed by a pair or solo. Hull and deck are a fiberglass and balsa core sandwich. With the centerboard up, the boat draws only eight inches. Though intended to be a daysailer, owners have rigged boom tents and berths for overnight trips, and one adventurous Scot sailor cruised his along inland waterways from Philadelphia to New Orleans.

Known primarily for its line of racing dinghys, RS Sailing also builds the 16-foot, 4-inch Venture, which it describes as a cruising and training dinghy. The Venture features a large, self-draining cockpit that will accommodate a family or pack of kids. A furling jib and mainsail with slab reefing come standard with the boat; a gennaker and trapeze kit are options, as is an outboard motor mount and transom swim ladder. The deck and hull are laid up in a fiberglass and Coremat sandwich. The Venture’s designed to be both a good performer under sail, but also stable, making it a good boat for those learning the sport.

$14,900, 203-259-7808, rssailing.com

Topper makes a range of mono- and multihull rotomolded boats, but the model that caught one editor’s eye at Strictly Sail Chicago was the Topaz Taz. At 9 feet, 8 inches LOA and weighing in at 88 pounds, the Taz is not going to take the whole crowd out for the day. But, with the optional mainsail and jib package (main alone is for a single child), the Taz can carry two or three kids or an adult and one child, and would make a fun escape pod when tied behind the big boat and towed to some scenic harbor. The hull features Topper’s Trilam construction, a plastic and foam sandwich that creates a boat that’s stiff, light, and durable, and shouldn’t mind being dragged up on the beach when it’s time for a break.

$2,900 (includes main and jib), 410-286-1960, topazsailboats.com

WindRider WRTango

WRTango, a fast, sturdy, 10-foot trimaran that’s easy to sail, is the newest portable craft from WindRider International. It joins a line that includes the WR16 and WR17 trimarans. The Tango features forward-facing seating, foot-pedal steering, and a low center of gravity that mimics the sensation of sitting in a kayak. It weighs 125 pounds (including the outriggers and carbon-fiber mast), is extremely stable, and has single-sheet sail control. The six-inch draft and kick-up rudder make it great for beaching, while the hull and outriggers are made of rotomolded polyethylene, so it can withstand running into docks and being dragged over rocks.

$3,000, 612-338-2170, windrider.com

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6 Best Small Outboard Motors – (Reviews & Buying Guide 2021)

Having a boat is a pretty good way to relax and spend your free time without being bound with people you do not know, their time and their willingness to do something else. One of the most important things about the boat is the motor. Having the best small outboard motor is just a thing that helps you with the best experience you can have.

Having a reliable motor is essential as it is not only a matter of good performance but is often a matter of safety and convenience as well.

What types of outboard motors can you find? What are the benefits of using one? What else should you know about the engines and their use? Our team has done some research, collected new facts, relevant information and has compiled some small outboard motor reviews. All this can help you choose the right small motor for your boat.

Best Small Outboard Motors Comparison Chart

Best Small Outboard Motor for Boats (New List)

Let’s begin by highlighting the most excellent products of that class. Here you will see a list of 6 outboard motors and their write-ups. Nothing is arranged in any specific order because we understand that whatever suits you, might not suit someone else.

1. Sea Dog Water Sports Outbound Motor 2 Stroke

The engine is started manually, and it comes with a safe twist grip throttle control for easier maneuverability. Moreover, it has the 360 steering rotation which allows you to reverse without changing the gear.

The shaft is rather long-26 inches, and it is needless to say that you need to measure your boat to check if it fits or not. The motor is cooled by water and maintenance is quite simple. It is suitable for freshwater and saltwater.

• 1-year warranty
• Large fuel tank
• Suitable for freshwater and saltwater
• Difficult to start in cold weather.
• Too expensive for a 2-stroke engine
• 26 inches might be too long a shaft to fit some boats

2. Enshey Boat Engine

The 4-stroke engine is powered on 93 Lead-free gasoline, and we also recommend you add a special 4-stroke lubricant. The oil tank has a capacity of 1.8L. All necessary parts are included in the shipment, and a user manual included for easy installation.

• Comfortable throttle handle
• May emit initial smoke and gas smell
• Will not provide powerful thrust
• The instruction manual can be misguiding.

3. SEA DOG WATER SPORTS Outboard Motor

We recommend that you add special 4-stroke oil and clean the air filter each time after more than 5 hours of use for optimal use. In some cases, we found that the motor can overheat after continuous use, in which case we recommend you switch it off for about 20 minutes. The product comes with a 1-year warranty and an installation manual.

• Energy efficient
• Light and easy to carry
• Suitable for freshwater or saltwater
• No reverse gear
• Oil may leak
• Instruction manual not clear

4. Sea Dog Outboard Motor 2 Stroke 2.5 HP

This outboard motor is a 2-stroke traditional engine that will produce 2.5hp. It is fair to say that it doesn’t have the robust horsepower, but the motor is reliable. The engine can start without any problem under any weather condition. It is also well-built and will resist corrosion making it more durable.

The fuel tank capacity is 1.2L, and on a full tank, it will run for a couple of hours. The motor has an air cooling system. The throttle handle has a safe twist grip feature so that you can maneuver with ease. It has a CDI ignition system, and the engine needs to be started manually.

• Compact and lightweight
• Corrosion resistant
• Competitive price
• Only forward and neutral gear

5. Leadallway 4 Stroke 4HP Air Cooling Outboard Motor

The outboard motor features a start-in-gear protection clutch which prevents the propeller rotation while it is idle. Such a feature will be beneficial while fishing at your favorite spot. On top of that, it will make the motor run less often which will ultimately boost its durability.

It is a 4 stroke engine and has 4 Hp with an air cooling system. The unit weighs 23.8 pounds which are considered to be lightweight for an outboard motor. Thus, ideal for a small boat. The recommended fuel is No.93 gasoline

Another advantageous feature of this motor is the 360-degree steering rotation. This makes maneuvering easier as the boat can be reversed without shifting gear. It has a 17 inches shaft and will fit most boats. The motor is started manually by pulling the starter handle.

• The 360-degree steering rotation feature
• Low fuel consumption
• start-in-gear protection
• The instruction manual is not in English

6. Hafiy 2/4 Stroke Heavy Duty Outboard Motor

The unit is durable as it is made from cast aluminum. The motor has a start-in-gear protection feature which stops the propeller from rotating while it is idle. This will enhance the durability of the engine. It weighs only 21.6 pounds and can be easily mounted in any small boats such as kayak or canoe.

The engine is manually started by pulling the starter handle. Like most outboard motors, the unit also has a 360-degree steering rotation. This is very helpful in maneuvering as you can reverse without changing gear.

• Sturdy as they are built with cast aluminum
• The engine is hard to start in cold weather
• A larger fuel tank capacity would have been more appropriate for such horsepower

What is the Outboard Motor?

The engine is one of the main marine elements when you prepare your boat for the water. In our case, we will focus on what an outboard motor is and how it works . The small outboard motor is an engine system for small watercraft. It consists of an engine (the powerhead), exhaust housing and gearbox. This motor provides propulsion, but you can also control the direction.

Types Of Outboard Motors

The first and most significant thing about choosing the right engine for your watercraft is the size, the weight and the power to be matched with the performance characteristic of the motor. Now you can take a quick look at the types of small outboard motors. We collected the most essential information to make the right choice easier.

Small two-stroke outboard motor

A two-stroke engine produces the consumption and compression strokes of the plunger in a single action. The expansion and exhaust strokes occur. The expansion stroke is the point, which generates the power that put the engine in motion. The exhaust, expansion, suction, and compression appear in ”two strokes”  of the piston. The Two-stroke outboards are cheap, light, they have simple construction, and they are sturdy enough.

Small four-stroke outboard motor

Four-stroke outboards have the same principle of work as the two-stroke motors. The four stages are shared in four strokes, making it a four-stroke engine. This type of motors runs smooth and silent. They do not need any oil which makes them ‘green’.

Both types of small outboards have their disadvantages:

• Four-Stroke motors need extra maintenance and regular checkups. They are also more massive than the two-stroke.
• Two-strokes motors are less fuel-efficient than the other engine. If you are living in the ‘green’ era, it is pretty essential to think about the pollution, so a significant disadvantage of the two-stroke motor is the addition of oil to fuel. It is not only harmful to nature, but it is also more expensive.

All engines, even the high-end trolling motors can be divided into two other categories – air-cooled outboards and water-cooled cooling outboards.

Air-cooled systems work be decreasing heat via a fan. They are currently produced only by a few manufacturers, but they are also small and not too convincing.

Water-cooled systems are a great alternative when the air is not an option. They use water to cool the engine. This system can be divided into two other categories – open loop cooling and closed-loop cooling. Small Outboard motors use in most cases closed-loop cooling.

Closed-loop cooling uses the surrounding water to cool the engine, but the water never enters the boat. Hot antifreeze goes around the inside of a ride plate, which disperses the heat into the surrounding water. Most waterways are much colder than the motor, the ride plate can transfer the heat out of the engine and into the water.

Benefits Of Small Outboard Motors

Size and Space

We all know that free space is essential – in our bag, in our car, in our home and of course, on our boat. This group of outboards is called “small” not only because they are used for small watercraft, but also because they are compact. They give you enough free space on your boat, which you can use for something else.

The small outboards are designed not only as an engine, but you can also control the direction of your watercraft. They are good with and without power, so docking and low-speed maneuvering are easy.

This type of engine is the cheapest one. The price is not the most relevant thing about the choice of a motor, but yes – it is a big advantage of the outboards.

Portability and Maintenance

The small outboard motors can be easily lifted out the water when they are not in use. The engine can be reached from the inside so it can be repaired faster. It can also be moved from the boat to be put in storage – if you do not need it – just grab it, put it in your garage or house, it will be safe, and you can do some checkups, only to be sure everything is okay with the engine.

All items that we buy have some advantages, but also some disadvantages. Here we have summed some information about the small outboards.

As you already read, the small outboard engines can be easily removed from the boat, which makes them easy to steal.

Our tip: If you decide to choose this type of motor, just keep them safe. Store them properly when they aren’t in use.

Dangerous Situations

If you plan to go sailing into a sea, you may experience some rough-sea-situation. In this case, outboards are not the right decision. It depends on where or when you are planning to sail. Be careful! Safety is the most important thing!

Features to Pay Attention to

Yes, size matters. It is important about the balance and speed of the boat. If the engine is too big for the ship, it can lose its balance. This is a dangerous situation, so make the right choice about the size of the motor.

Be aware of the weight. If the motor is too heavy for your boat, it will not work right. Not only the size matters because the engine can be small, but heavy enough to make your vessel lose balance. The front side of the boat will go higher, and the rear end will be almost in the water. The watercraft will lose its speed and power, you will not be able to enjoy your outing.

Two-strokes vs Four-strokes

Our team already mentioned the differences between the two types of motors. If the environmental friendliness and the economy of fuel are essential for you – look for a four-stroke engine. If the power, simpler construction and the price matter more for you – choose the two-strokes one.

Electric Start

This feature lets you start the engine only pushing one button. The older recoil-start motors are more difficult to use sometimes – when you are in a hurry and need to start the motor fast. With the electric start button, you can start the outboard engine easily and quickly, and in some particular situations, this is very important.

High-Power Thrust

Some outboards have this feature for better performance with heavy watercraft – it is designed to produce more thrust for better maneuverability with heavier boats. If you have one of these beautiful, but really heave boat – you must mandatorily insist on this feature.

Horse-power

The horse-power is an essential feature for the vessel. Check it before buying the motor – if it is too powerful or not powerful enough – it will be problematic for smooth usage. The bigger the boat is, the more powerful the engine you will need.

Maintenance of Lightweight Motors

Some good news for you is that if you decided to take this type of engine, you wouldn’t need a marine battery charger because outboards motors don’t need such suppliers.  As you already saw, the maintenance of the engines is not something complicated, but now we will introduce you to some important details about it.

First of all, the maintenance depends on what type of engine you have. The best you can start with is the manual from the manufacturer. The most important information can be found there.

The oil change is crucial for all engines, and the outboards are no exception. In most cases, you should drain the waste oil through a drain hole instead of pumping it out. You should always check the oil level – using the dipstick, it is similar to the car.

Spark plugs must be changed once a year, but it is not a bad idea to have one, so you can replace the old one if needed.

Last but not least, always check the fuel level. It is bad for the fuel to be stored, even with the stabilizers added, modern fuels do not last very long when stored. The best thing you can do – every summer put some fresh fuel to your engine.

Supporting is essential for the life of the motor. Take proper care for it, and it will be reliable for a long time.

Installation

You have bought your engine, and now you need to install in on the boat. If you think that the installed motor will bother you, you can always consider buying a tray that will cover it. Reading the manual from the manufacturer, you will find information about the installation of a particular motor. Here are some more tips for it:

• Be sure that you had to choose the right engine for the boat!

Yes, this is important, and you have already read it. But for your safety – keep the watercraft balanced.

• Make sure that the engine is in the center if the after-deck.
• Tighten the motor.
• Make use you can move the middle part of the outboard up and down.
• Follow the instruction from the manufacturer.
• If the motor does not look right installed, call technicians – they will make sure if the engine is well installed or not. Safety first!
• Use a safety cable in case of the motor bumps into a submerged object and is knocked from the transom. This cable will keep the motor from falling and sinking in this case.

Safety tips

• Choose the engine about your boat! It is essential for the boat to have a suitable motor. The power, the size, even the weigh is significant. If you do not attend this rule, you may experience some dangerous situations and lose the balance of the watercraft.
• Find the right place for the engine. It must always be in the center of the after-deck. When you find this particular spot for the motor, you will be able to keep the balance, to navigate your boat quickly and to be sure that you will not have any problems, while boating.
• Check the possibility of the outboard to move! It must smoothly run left and right. If you have any problems with navigating, check the surrounding area. Maybe something is in the way of the propeller and impedes the motor from turning around. In this case, you may experience some troubles. Remove the obstacle and check again. If you have any other difficulties, remove the motor from the boat and put it back. If it does not help, call a technician – they will help you resolve the problem.
• Check the connection on the motor. Listen carefully for strange sounds.
• Start the motor and let the water pump do all the rest.
• While using the motor, always check the water pump – just to be sure it works fine. Put your finger into the water carefully – it can be warm, but if it is hot – you have a problem. Stop the engine to prevent overheating.
• Always use only fresh fuel. At the end of the season, drain the fuel. In spring – buy a new one, do not use stored fuel, it is bad for the motor.
• Do not forget the maintenance of the outboard. It is essential for life. If you have some problems, do not try to fix it yourself, unless you are absolutely sure what you do. Take it off the boat and find a technician, qualified to repair engines.
• Clean the motor properly. You can find information about the right kind of care in the manual from the manufacturer.
• With trouble-free small outboard motor, you can enjoy sailing and spending your time in the water.

Well done guys, you have successfully finished our article on finding the best small outboard motor . Having read our reviews of the best small outboard motor and our additional information and tips, you now realize that finding a reliable product can be a bit hard.

If you think our guide was helpful and it could be useful for other boat lovers as well, don’t forget to share it with them. Also, if there is anything you would like to add or you want to tell us, write a comment or send to our team an email- we love feedback from you.

We hope you like what you just read. Make sure you will find some free time to check out the other articles devoted to choosing the marine supplies for you. Thanks for reading, and stay put!

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4 Best Electric Outboard Motors

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Taking a small dinghy with an electric outboard motor on your sailboat can provide a means of quick and reliable transportation.

While electric outboard motors can have difficulty moving full-size sailboats around, they are more than powerful enough to get a small dinghy going fast. While trolling motors are only good for slow speeds, an electric outboard motor can get a boat going fast as long as the boat is small enough.

Electric outboard motors can be a better choice than gas motors. As well as being powerful enough, they are lighter, more compact, and more reliable. You can count on motors from ePropulsion and Torquedo to last for a while.

If your sailboat is large enough, you should always take a dinghy with you. As well as being a potential lifesaver in an emergency, a dinghy is useful any time you need to drop anchor and make it to shore. A dinghy with a motor is cheap compared to a sailboat, so a sailor should always have a dinghy with them.

Table of contents

How fast can you go with an electric outboard motor?

If you are running a powerful motor on a small boat at full speed, you might be able to do 15 knots or better. Usually, you won't go that fast when you are in a dinghy and running an electric motor.

If you want to make it as far as possible, you will run the motor on much less than full power. Fifteen knots is what you might get if you are running a powerful 6000 watt motor on a small boat. Normal speeds are slower - you might move at less than five knots if you want to travel as many miles as possible before the battery dies.

How far can you make it in a dinghy with an electric motor?

Something like 20 miles is a rough, ballpark figure, although with some motors, you might be able to make it 70 miles at a slow speed. Don't take any risks when it comes to whether or not your battery will run out in the middle of the sea. Be on the safe side.

You will do much better if you run your motor at a slower speed. If you run your motor as fast as possible, you might make it only a fraction of the maximum distance before your battery runs out. Distances high above 20 miles are sometimes possible if you go slow, although it depends on the boat and the motor.

How is power measured for electric motors?

The power of an electric motor is usually measured in watts, not horsepower. Sometimes the power of an electric motor is given in horsepower, but usually in watts.

Boat motors vary greatly in how powerful they are. A motor that is only 10hp, 5hp, or 3hp is common even though outboard motors can be 20hp or more.

Usually, you can go more like 5 knots than 15 knots with an electric or gas motor. To go 15 knots, you might need something like a 100hp motor - this is too expensive and not what people are likely to put on a small dinghy.

What are the advantages of gas motors?

In the long run, electric motors can save you money because it costs less to keep them running. After the first few years, electric motors are the cheaper choice.

The maintenance cost per hour of use is much higher for petrol motors. After only a few hundred hours of use, a petrol motor's cost will exceed the cost of an electric motor.

One disadvantage of electric motors is that they run on batteries, which take time to charge. You will have to charge your batteries overnight, compared to quickly refueling a gas engine.

One way out of this problem is to use a solar charger. With a solar charger, you can charge your batteries anywhere as long as the sun is out.

Electric outboard motor advantages

As well as being effectively cheaper than gas motors, electric motors are much quieter. Compared to a gas engine, an electric motor is almost silent. You will hear almost nothing and will not scare fish away.

Electric motors are also much cleaner to deal with than gas motors. If you use an electric motor, you won't have to deal with engine grease. You can get engine grease on your boat and not just on your hands and clothes with a gas motor.

Gas motors also have exhaust fumes, so an electric motor is better for your health. Electric motors are also simpler than gas motors, so you won't have to repair them as often.

Is it possible to buy high powered electric outboard motors?

Yes, you can find an electric motor with a power equivalent to an 80 horsepower gas engine. Not many people put such powerful motors on their dinghies, though. Dinghies mostly have weaker motors, often less than five horsepower.

Is it easy to break a propeller if you hit something?

You can definitely do expensive damage to a propeller if it hits a rock. A small bump won't damage it - most propellers are made well and are reasonably durable. If your motor does not come with a propeller guard, you should buy one separately.

Are 3hp motors good enough for many boats, or are they too weak for most purposes?

If you are using a small dinghy that weighs less than two tons, and do not intend to go very fast, a 3hp motor is good enough. You can go much faster than trolling speed with only a 3hp motor if your craft is small enough. For a small sailboat that weighs more like six tons than one or two tons, a 10hp motor may be enough.

Best electric outboard motors

Make sure you buy a high-quality motor because these are not tiny investments. You can lose more than a little money if you buy a shoddy product that does not have a good warranty. Put a bit of time into verifying the reliability of whatever you purchase.

1) ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Plus

If you are fine with a fairly weak 3HP motor, the Spirit 1.0 Plus is a great product with few disadvantages. The Spirit 1.0 Plus from ePropulsion is built to last, uses power efficiently, and doesn't cost a fortune.

At full speed, the Spirit will only last for about 90 minutes on a single battery. With a 12 foot boat, you can go about 9 km/h - not bad for a relatively low power engine. You also do not need to run the boat on full power to approach your boat's maximum speed.

If you run the Spirit on 1/4 power, you can keep it going for 6 or 8 hours. Batteries are fairly heavy, but you can keep the motor running for a long time if you bring extra batteries. The motor can save you in a dangerous situation and is great for non-emergency uses as well.

Another advantage of the Spirit is that the battery floats, so it won't sink if you drop it in the water. The Spirit is also light, even with the powerful battery it comes with. The digital display that shows how much battery power you have left is accurate.

Like other electric boat motors, the Spirit is more environmentally friendly and healthier than a gas engine. Gas engines have fuel leakage and fumes; an electric motor avoids these problems. The Spirit even comes with a 180W solar panel to charge it, although this is not the only or the fastest way of charging the battery.

The motor even has a remote control, so you can steer it and adjust the speed with a console. If the Spirit has a disadvantage, it is that the range on a single battery is unimpressive. You can make it a little more than 20 miles, but many other electric motors let you go farther on a single battery.

2) ePropulsion Navy 6.0

If you are looking for something longer lasting than and more powerful than the Spirit 1.0 Plus, ePropulsion also offers the more powerful Navy 6.0 . The Navy 6.0 is equivalent to a 10Hp engine, so it won't struggle to move a relatively big boat.

The range on the Navy 6.0 is impressive. The battery is powerful enough that you can travel 40 miles before having to recharge. If you want to bring more than one battery, the Navy 6.0 can be compatible with other companies' batteries.

The Navy 6.0 also has a propeller that will stop immediately if it hits anything. This can save your engine from damage if the propeller hits a rock or anything else. There is also an emergency stop kill switch to

The Navy 6.0 works just as well in freshwater as in saltwater. It is advantageous to have an electric motor on a lake because there are laws against gas motors in some lakes.

3) Torquedo Travel 1003

One thing that makes the Torquedo Travel stand out is its onboard GPS computer, which can calculate how far you can travel before the battery runs out. The computer will continuously update how far you can travel based on how much battery power is left, how fast you are going, and how much power you are using.

While the Torquedo Travel can run for 10 or 11 hours on a full charge, it can only move a small boat at 1.5 or 2 knots for that long. If you run the engine at half throttle, it will last for 3.5 hours at 3 knots. If you travel faster, the battery runs out very fast - it will only last half an hour at 5 knots.

If you want a solar charger for the motor, you can buy it separately from the company. It is costly, but the solar panels do work well and give you a way to charge the battery at sea.

The Torquedo Travel is also a small and light motor that does not take up much room. Without the battery, it weighs only 8.9 kilograms. You can easily remove and store the engine.

Another useful feature is the kill switch that allows you to stop the motor immediately in an emergency. You can also use the engine/battery as a power source for electronics through a USB.

The Torquedo is a reliable engine backed by a two-year warranty. It is equivalent only to a 3HP engine, so it is not powerful enough for everyone.

4) Torquedo Cruise 4.0 T

The Torquedo Cruise is the best choice if you want a more powerful alternative to the Torquedo Travel. The Torquedo Cruise electric outboard motor is equivalent to an 8HP gas engine. If you need a motor for a boat that weighs three or four tons instead of one or two tons, get the Cruise instead of the Travel.

The Torquedo Cruise will stay completely waterproof for a long time and not develop small leaks quickly. Small leaks can ruin some of the cheaper engines on the market. The Torquedo Cruise is also very corrosion resistant, so you can use it in saltwater for a long time without damage.

The Torquedo Cruise has the same onboard GPS computer, emergency off switch, and two-year warranty as the Torquedo Travel does. The only disadvantage compared to the Torquedo Travel is the higher price. Not everyone needs a more powerful motor, but it is an excellent engine if you do.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Transom Brackets For Small Outboards: Fulton Rates Best

In our test of eight transom-mounted brackets, the fulton was the easiest to operate. garelick's model for motors up to 20 hp earns runner-up honors, and omc's unit deserves consideration..

The most common form of auxiliary propulsion for small sailboats is the outboard motor. On some boats, it is mounted in a well forward of the transom. Such arrangements conceal and protect the motor but may not allow it to be tilted up to get the prop out of the water when sailing. More common, perhaps is the mounting of a bracket on the transom. These generally have two positions—up and down—for lowering the motor’s prop into the water, and raising it. Brackets should be strong, durable, and, most importantly, easy to operate without having to hang out over the transom.

What Was Tested We rounded up eight brackets from five manufacturers—Fulton, Garelick, Triangle, Minn Kota and Outboard Motor Corp. (OMC). Prices ranged from $95 to $380. All are manually operated, except for the electrically powered Minn Kota.

Early on we discovered that your choice depends not only on the outboard’s horsepower and weight but also on whether it’s a two- or four-stroke. We understood why weight and horsepower make a difference but weren’t sure why a four-stroke would require a special, and subsequently more expensive, bracket.

“It’s the increased torque and thrust of a four-stroke,” said Jayson Klade, a Fulton Industries technical representative. The four-stroke’s greater force imposes more stress on the bracket; therefore it needs to be stronger than a bracket for a two-stroke.

How We Tested The main criteria for evaluation was ease of use, but also considered was the ease of assembly and mounting, quality of materials, price and instructions. We noted how sturdy each bracket was by shaking the motor from side to side and fore and aft while placing the bracket in several positions—a “wiggle test,” if you will. We also measured the range of motion, or vertical distance, of each.

To test, we collaborated with our sister publication, Powerboat Reports, whose editor owns a 21′ walkaround with a large outboard; his interest was mounting a small backup “kicker.”We had a local machine shop weld up a stainless steel plate that could be bolted to his boat’s transom and used to mount the brackets.

Three motors were used—a 2000 Nissan 5-hp four-stroke, a 1980’s-era 9.9-hp Mercury two-stroke and a 1970’s 15-hp Evinrude. We hauled the boat, mounted each bracket and tried all three outboards on each one.

What Was Found The three Garelick models, the four-stroke Fulton model and the OMC bracket included 3″ bolts; the other Fulton bracket came with 2-1/4″ bolts, too short for the 2-1/2″ thick transom. This was annoying as no one likes to interrupt a project with a trip to the hardware store.

Minn Kota and Triangle included no hardware.

Instructions that came with most of the brackets were fairly good, advising where to mount them so the outboard could perform properly. Minn Kota failed to offer this information, and the Triangle came with no directions.

All but one bracket—the two-stroke Fulton—offered clearance between the motor and the bracket handle when tilted. Most used some sort of spring as its primary lifting and lowering mechanism. All except the Triangle and Minn Kota included raised strips of polypropylene or stainless steel on the mounting boards to prevent the motor from sliding off.

We were surprised that OMC and Garelick’s instructions advised that the motor be taken off before trail-ering the boat. We figured the brackets would face much more stress at sea than rolling down the highway. But representatives from both companies told us otherwise. A bump in the road can cause more damage than a large wave, they said.

“The G-forces are greater on the road,” said Dean Devore, OMC director of product development.

Only one bracket, the four-stroke Garelick, came with a safety harness to prevent the motor from sinking to the bottom if it came off the bracket.

All Fulton and Garelick models offered at least four levels to adjust outboard trim. Two of the three Garelicks—the up-to-8 hp and up-to-20 hp models—included flange-type brackets that allow you to convert the unit from a negative transom setup (an angle greater than 90°) to a positive transom (an angle less than 90°, seen mostly on sailboats). But the conversion involves swapping the brackets, reversing their position and adjusting the springs. Each of the five adjustment holes represents a 7° increment.

With most of the coil-spring models, you must be very careful while operating the bracket when it is not mounted on the boat. The force of the springs is so great that you could seriously injure yourself if you trigger the release with a finger or hand inside the mechanism. Garelick’s instructions provide several warnings; Fulton’s instructions do not.

Fulton: Two-strokes up to 10 hp We found this model extremely difficult to raise, so much so that we had to put our left knee on top of the transom and our right foot in the motor well to gain enough leverage to move it. The difficulty stems from the unit’s lack of springs and the fact that you must simultaneously push the one-arm lever aft and up, which is very awkward. Lowering the unit wasn’t much easier.

Fulton representative Jayson Klade said the company recognizes this problem and may discontinue this model because of it. He said he has had calls from older owners who have had trouble moving a 2-hp outboard on this bracket.

The unit itself is solidly built, with an anodized aluminum bracket and a polypropylene mounting board. However, the bolts used to secure this board to the bracket were rusted. We suggest replacing them with stainless steel.

This was the only bracket that presented clearance problems. The Evinrude 15’s steering arm hit the bracket’s lever handle, and the Mercury’s choke smacked it when the motor was tilted.

Bottom Line: Not recommended, mainly due to the difficulty we encountered raising and lowering the unit.

Fulton: Two- and Four-strokes up to 30 hp This model, also anodized aluminum, was much easier to operate than its little brother, due to its four springs, 1-3/4″ wider stance and larger, two-arm lever. With all three engines, we needed only one hand to operate it.

However, we found two drawbacks. First, installation requires shimming (placing a 1″- to 2″-thick block of wood or aluminum between it and the transom) if mounted below the rubrail and on a flat transom, such as ours. Without a shim, the lever handle will hit the transom. In addition, shimming may require longer mounting bolts. Second, the springs obstruct eight of the 12 mounting holes, making installation more difficult. (Use a long screwdriver to bend the spring ends out of the way.) Fulton recognizes this design flaw and is working on it, said Klade.

Bottom Line: Recommended. The easiest to operate.

Garelick: Two-strokes up to 8 hp The body of this unit is stainless steel. Its four torsion springs helped us lift and lower it easily. You can also lessen the spring tension by cutting up to three of the four springs if lowering the bracket is too difficult due to the use of a light motor.

Click here to view the Transom Brackets Value Guide.

Our main complaint with this bracket was the sloppy play (fore and aft) in the up position encountered during the wiggle test. Even with its locking mechanism engaged, the bracket afforded too much play.

Bottom Line: Easy to use but its sloppy play is a drawback.

Garelick: Two-strokes to 20 hp This is essentially the same bracket as the smaller Garelick, except its longer body gives greater vertical travel, and it includes eight springs instead of four. We encountered no wobbling and found it to be even easier to operate than the smaller Garelick.

Bottom Line: Recommended. Only the Fulton four-stroke model is easier to operate.

Garelick: Two- and Four-strokes up to 30 hp This model is well-made and the only one equipped with two locks and a safety harness. Unfortunately, we had great difficulty lowering all three outboards.

The motors were not heavy enough to overcome the unit’s spring-loaded tension. Garelick says it becomes easier after you get the feel for it. We never did. The company does not advise cutting the springs on this model, so we have little confidence that it will work with motors up to 15 hp. We’d only use it for heavier motors, such as those from 20 to 30 hp.

We also discovered that this unit requires shimming to be installed on a boat with a flat transom. (Like the small Fulton, we were only able to mount it because the stainless steel plate acted as a shim.) The directions do point this out: “Add a 1″ shim if the release handle is at or below the rubrail or the top of the transom.” But some of the diagrams show a successful mounting on a flat transom. This is misleading and confusing to the installer.

Note: Garelick listed the wrong telephone number in the directions. The correct number is listed at the end of this story.

Bottom Line: Recommended only for use with engines from 20 hp to 30 hp.

OMC: Two- and Four-strokes up to 15 hp Unlike the Fulton and Garelick brackets, this model operates with a gas-filled cylinder. It was easy to operate, accomplished by moving a small lever with a red handle to positions marked “raise” or “lower.” To lower, simply jerk the motor up slightly and push down; to raise, push down on the motor, and the lift unlocks and rises. However, unlike most of the others, the OMC does not have multiple positions for engine trim—only two, up and down.

“We’ve found that most people only use one level anyway,” said OM’s Devore. “Rarely do they want to change settings.” For $380, the most expensive motor lift in our group, the consumer might prefer this option. (The device’s shock alone costs about $100, according to Devore.)

Like Garelick, OMC warns against trailer travel with the engine on the boat. It goes a step further, though, advising the owner to attach a rope to the engine in “choppy water,” suggesting to us that the manufacturer is not very confident of its product. “Perhaps that could be worded better; we are just being overly cautious,” said Devore.

OMC recently introduced a larger bracket made of die-cast aluminum (the model we tested is a combination of die-cast and stamped aluminum) for outboard motors up to 125 pounds that retails for $380.

Bottom Line: Works very well, but price is a drawback.

Triangle: Up to 10 hp This unit came without hardware or directions. Its wooden mounting board is susceptible to rotting because raw wood is exposed on the inside of its four mounting holes. In addition, we couldn’t safely attach the 9.9-hp Mercury because the 7″-wide mounting board was too narrow. The circular pads of the engine’s bolts hung off the plate. With no directions, we weren’t sure whether this bracket could hold four-stroke engines. We called Triangle, and a representative ruled them out.

Another concern is the spring on this stainless steel unit; it failed to hold the weight of the Nissan and Mercury motors. We discovered this abruptly when the Nissan came crashing down after we had released the locking mechanism. Needless to say, we believe that this bracket needs a stronger spring.

Bottom Line: Not recommended, due to its weak spring, very narrow and unprotected wooden mounting board.

Minn Kota: Two- and Four-strokes up to 20 hp This was the only electrically powered (12V) bracket tested. We found installation easy, the directions simple and the motor, which turns a jack screw to raise and lower the mounting board, worked effectively.

Even though this unit is listed in the West Marine catalog, it is not intended for saltwater use, which explains the steel components (only the mounting board is anodized aluminum). Minn Kota may come out with a saltwater version in 2002, said spokesman Dave Golladay.

We thought the electrical connections were inadequate (for salt- or freshwater use), especially the two spade connectors that attach to the unit’s motor. They are directly exposed to the water.

The silicone meant to protect the motor’s housing was sloppily applied, hanging off and failing to cover certain spots.

The Minn Kota flunked our wiggle test. The two arms attached to the jack screw don’t offer enough support. We would attach a third arm—there’s room.

The jack screw is a potential problem, too, because it sticks out when the unit is up, leaving it open to be struck by the corner of a dock or other solid structure. Golladay said, “These are all very good points. We’re trying to enhance that product line. Our primary focus is trolling motors.”

Bottom Line: Not recommended. An automatic bracket is a great idea, and one we’d like to see developed, but the Minn Kota’s subpar materials and construction make it difficult to recommend.

Conclusion The Fulton four-stroke bracket is our top choice for any size outboard. It does require some shimming, but its solid construction and ease of use place it ahead of the pack.

Our runner-up, the Garelick (up to 20 hp) was extremely easy to use, and it’s $60 less than the Fulton. But it’s limited to two-stroke engines, which leads us to this point: Because four-strokes are becoming more popular, it does not make sense for manufacturers to continue producing brackets for two-stroke use only. We think it only confuses the consumer. (For instance, we’ve received reader letters asking why some motor lifts are restricted to two-stroke motors.)

Case in point: A 5-hp four-stroke does not produce as much torque as a 20-hp two-stroke, and yet the Garelick (up to 20 hp) restricts all four-strokes.

The OMC bracket was also impressive, but you have to be willing to pay. The smallest Garelick worked well, but its failure in the wobble test is a concern.

We don’t think you should consider the other models because they had, in our opinion, too many flaws.

Contacts- Fulton Performance Products, Inc., 50 Indianhead Drive, P.O. Box 8, Mosinee, WI 54455; 715/693-1700. Garelick, PO Box 8, 644 2nd St., St. Paul Park, MN 55071; 651/459-9795. Minn Kota, Johnson Outdoors, 706 Holly Lane, Mankato, MN 56001; 800/227-6433. OMC, 3225 Prairie Ave., Beloit, WI 53511; 847/689-5630. Triangle, Inc., 51 Fernwood Lane, Roslyn, NY 11576; 516/365-8143.

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i have a 19 foot sail boat with a 5 hp nissan ob. the Garelic a bracket MN 10470 (not sure of MN). The main issue is the grommets spacers corrode within 2 seasons . I sail in salt/brackish water. I complained and they gave me a discount on another one they said better modle. It did the same thing. Not sure what to get now that I purchaesed a 6 hp Tahatsu that is heavier 55lbs.

Anyone know where I can buy a gas cyclinder for the OMC bracket

Darrell, what about short shaft vs long shaft outboards? Can I use my short shaft 15 Hp Evinrude on a sailboat with a bracket?

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Best small outboard motors: Electric vs petrol in head-to-head group test

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The choice of 2-3hp outboard engines has never been better now that there are electric as well as petrol motors to choose from, but which is right for you? We test six of the best small outboard motors.

Choosing an outboard engine for your tender used to be as simple as going to your nearest dealer and picking up whatever 2.5hp engine they had in stock.

It barely mattered what brand it was, they were all much of a muchness. Now, however, things have got a bit more complicated – in a good way.

First you’ve got to decide whether you are going to stick with petrol or go electric. Then there’s the question of who offers the best combination of power, range, weight, build quality, refinement, ease of use and, of course, price.

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We have put six 5hp outboard engines to the test to find out which one offers the best performance, practicality

VIDEO: Six of the best 10hp outboard engines in group test

Fitting a 10hp outboard to your tender can transform a functional boat into a pocket rocket. In this video we

You could go round and round in circles for hours trying to decide what was right for you. So that’s exactly what we did, on your behalf, by assembling all the main players at the Royal Lymington Yacht Club along with one of F-RIBs brilliant little 2.75m folding mini-RIBs to test them on and work out which were the lightest, fastest, most user-friendly engines for your tender.

Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha and Selva all provided petrol engines of 2.3-2.5hp for the test while Torqeedo and ePropulsion represented the electric outboard alternatives.

The only major engine manufacturer which couldn’t supply a test engine was the Mercury group, which includes the Mercury, Tohatsu and Mariner brands.

UK Importer Barrus had hoped to deliver one on the day but delays in shipping and a run on existing stock meant they simply couldn’t get one to us in time. Hopefully we’ll be able to catch up with one at a later date.

In the meantime, here is what we learned from our group test of 6 of the best small outboard motors.

Ribbed rests show which side the engine needs to be laid down

Honda BF2.3 outboard motor

It’s a bit of an exaggeration to say that the BF2.5 has been around since Noah’s time but it sometimes seems that way. The reason it’s been around so long is because it continues to sell well.

So well in fact, that S.A.L Marine in Lymington, who supplied the test engine and represent both Honda and Suzuki, reckon they sell ten Honda BF2.3s for every one Suzuki DF2.5.

S.A.L puts this down to the little Honda’s light weight (13.6kg), compact dimensions and the brand’s reputation for reliability.

Air cooling keeps things light and simple at the expense of noise

It’s commendably simple air-cooled single-cylinder 57cc four-stroke engine should certainly be less prone to overheating from a blocked water intake or failed impeller than its water-cooled rivals and with no salt water circulating through the power head there’s less risk of corrosion or frost damage too.

Unlike the other petrol engines, it uses a twist-and-go centrifugal clutch rather than a manual gear lever. It’s also the only engine to boast a six-year warranty instead of the usual five years.

But that’s where the good news stops because in use the BF2.3 feels rather basic. The transom clamps are sliding metal rods, the pull-out choke and petrol switch are flimsy plastic affairs and the skinny tiller arm feels rather slender compared to the chunkier Yamaha and more sophisticated Torqeedo.

To keep the weight down everything has been kept as slender as possible

It has to be laid down on one side to prevent oiling up but at least it has raised supports to show which side to place it and prevent scratches on the cowling.

It works well enough and started on the first pull but it was the slowest of the petrol engines on test (5.1 knots solo and 4.4 knots with two) and the noisiest at 106db flat out. Without the damping effect of a water-cooling jacket, it makes a distinctive putt-putting noise at idle that rises to a raucous crescendo at full throttle.

The twist-and-go clutch is a mixed blessing, it saves fiddling around going into and out of gear but means you don’t get any drive or steering at idle, making subtle docking manoeuvres surprisingly tricky.

A centrifugal clutch means there’s no need for a gear lever

We can see the appeal of having something so simple, reliable and lightweight and could live with the average performance and rather basic appearance but we’re not sure we could put up with that noise for any length of time.

Unless you’re a die-hard Honda fan we think there are better options.

Honda BF2.3 outboard motor specifications

Power: 2.3hp Weight: 13.6kg Capacity: 57cc Tank: 1.1 litres Top speed: 5.1 knots (solo) / 4.4 knots (2 up) Noise: 83db (idle) / 108db (max) Warranty: 6 years Price: £720 MBY rating: 3/5

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The kill switch and throttle cable are integrated into the throttle arm for a neater look

Yamaha 2.5hp outboard motor

The Yamaha 2.5 is at the opposite end of the scale to the Honda, literally. It’s the heaviest of the petrol engines at 17.0kg and the largest too.

The upside of this is that everything about it feels chunkier, better engineered and more robust, from minor switchgear like the fuel tap and choke to the major controls like the transom clamps, gear lever and throttle arm.

It also has a larger capacity single-cylinder engine of 72cc compared to 57cc for the Honda and 68cc for the Suzuki so it should have more torque as well, although none of the manufacturers quote a figure for this.

Powerful, well-built and smooth running, the Yamaha was our pick of the petrol engines despite its extra weight

To cope with the extra weight, Yamaha has added a soft grip carrying handle to the back of the engine but there’s no escaping the fact that you can feel those extra 3.5kg, especially when lifting the engine onto the transom.

On the plus side you can lie it flat on both sides or even on its back without oil flowing into the cylinder. This makes it easier to store and all but rules out the chance of it being laid down incorrectly and ruining your day.

It has a 5-year warranty as standard and in common with the Suzuki and Selva is water-cooled.

Unlike its petrol rivals the Yamaha can be laid down on either side

Out on the water it started on the second pull and had a smooth, quiet idle (73db) that sounded far more refined and sophisticated than the noisy Honda, an advantage that became even more pronounced further up the rev range (91db).

This was by some margin the quietest and smoothest of all the petrol engines as well as the fastest.

With just one person on board it actually had enough grunt to get the little F-Rib up on the plane and scooting along at 9.5 knots, although with two people that dropped to a still useful 4.6 knots.

Transom clamps are widely spaced with large plastic handles

It has a slightly smaller fuel tank of 0.9 litres than either the Honda (1.1l) or Suzuki (1l) but we can’t see that making a meaningful difference to many people.

It does carry a bit of a price premium over its petrol counterparts at £760 but in terms of build quality, engineering, performance and above all, refinement, we reckon it justifies it.

Unless low weight is your number one priority this would be our top choice of the petrol engines.

Yamaha 2.5hp outboard motor specifications

Power: 2.5hp Weight: 17.0kg Capacity: 72cc Tank: 0.9 litres Top speed: 9.5 knots / 4.6 knots (2 up) Noise: 73db (idle) / 91db (max) Warranty: 5 years Price: £760 MBY rating: 5/5

BF2.5 is a good compromise being easy to start, light to carry and smooth running

Suzuki BF2.5 outboard motor

Suzuki has pulled off quite a coup with its BF2.5 because although it’s a water-cooled 68cc single-cylinder four-stroke engine it actually weighs less than the smaller 57cc air-cooled Honda (13.5kg vs 13.6kg).

Not that anyone’s going to notice the extra 100g but they certainly will appreciate the 3.5kg saving over the Yamaha. They’ve had to be pretty canny with those weight savings though and it does show in places.

The transom clamps are the thinnest, fiddliest and least comfortable of the group, being little more than sliding metal pins which could easily snag a stray sleeve or trouser leg. The throttle arm is also thinner than the Yamaha’s with a separate sleeved cable rather than the Yamaha’s neater, integrated one.

Like the Honda it can only be laid down on one side to avoid oil leaking into the cylinder but somewhat counter-intuitively it needs to be throttle-side down rather than up.

There is a small rest at the back of the cowling but not on the throttle-arm itself so you’ll have to be careful on concrete quays to avoid scratching it and we can’t help feeling the chances of putting it the wrong way up are higher because of it.

Water cooling makes for quieter running than the Honda

As with all the petrol engines it has an offset throttle-arm on the port side of the engine to create more room for the operator to sit and steer from the starboard side of the boat but for some reason the latch to unhook the engine from its raised position is tucked away underneath the port side of the cowling, making it unusually hard to locate and use from the natural seated position.

It’s a nice light pull-start that fired up first time and there’s an easily visible tell-tale to show that the cooling mechanism is working.

The idle is commendably smooth and quiet, if not quite as refined as the Yamaha, and it remains usefully quieter than the Honda all the way through its rev range up to a maximum sound reading of 95db.

It doesn’t feel quite as punchy as the Yamaha under way, failing to get the F-RIB planing with one person on board, but did come close to matching it two-up with an average speed of 4.5 knots.

If you crave the quieter running of a water-cooled engine but without the weight of the Yamaha, then the Suzuki BF2.5 is a good compromise.

Suzuki BF2.5 outboard motor specifications

Power: 2.5hp Weight: 13.5kg Capacity: 68cc Tank: 1.0 litres Top speed: 5.8 knots (solo) / 4.5 knots (2 up) Noise: 76db (idle) / 95db (max) Warranty: 5 years Price: £685 MBY rating: 4/5

Punchy Selva managed to get the F-RIB planing but did vibrate at speed

Selva Guppy 2.5hp outboard motor

Italian company Selva may not have the brand recognition of the big three Japanese players but it boasts a full range of outboard engines from 2.5hp to 300hp, the same five-year warranty as most of them and a very competitive pricing structure.

At the time of writing the entry-level 2.5hp Guppy cost just £579 inc VAT – more than £100 cheaper than any of its Japanese rivals.

And its technical specifications look pretty convincing too; its water-cooled 87cc four-stroke single cylinder engine has the largest capacity of them all yet it weighs the same 13.5kg as the featherweight Suzuki.

Despite its parent company’s Italian heritage, this model is actually built in China, helping to explain that ultra-competitive pricing. It doesn’t look or feel as sturdy as the Yamaha but that’s hardly surprising given the weight differential.

It’s closer to the Honda and Suzuki in that respect, with some elements such as the plastic moulded transom clamps actually being easier to use than either of them, while other parts, such as the rather flimsy metal support that locks the engine in the raised position, fall below par.

87cc single cylinder engine is the biggest of the group and delivers strong performance

Like the Suzuki this is tucked away on the port side of the engine, making it hard to find when sitting to starboard. Another characteristic it shares with the DF2.5 is that it can only be laid throttle-side down, meaning it rests on the throttle arm when not in use.

On the water it was the only other engine to get the F-RIB up on the plane and skimming along at a maximum speed of 8 knots with just the helmsperson on board. Even when we added a second person it managed a gutsy 5 knots.

However, that big capacity cylinder meant it required a heftier pull to start it than any of the others and it was notably noisier than all bar the raucous little Honda, especially toward the upper reaches of its rev range when you could also feel it vibrating through the throttle arm.

In summary the engine block didn’t feel as slick or well-engineered as either the Yamaha or Suzuki, although in terms of bang for buck it was up there with the best of them.

Whether that has any impact on long-term reliability or durability is hard to say but that five-year warranty should provide peace of mind.

Selva Guppy 2.5hp outboard motor specifications

Power: 2.5hp Weight: 13.5kg Capacity: 87cc Tank: 0.9 litres Speed: 8.0 knots (solo) / 5.0 knots (2 up) Noise: 82db (idle) / 105db (max) Warranty: 5 years Price: £579 MBY rating: 3/5

Buy it now on swmarinestore.com

Progress is wonderfully serene while built-in GPS gives a real-time readout of remaining range

Torqeedo Travel 1103C electric outboard motor

German company Torqeedo was the first to spot the potential for a cleaner, quieter electric alternative to the petrol outboard in 2005 and has built up a strong following since.

The entry-level Travel 603C model is equivalent to a 2hp petrol engine and costs £1,499, but we chose to test the 1103C costing £2,109. This is powered by a 1.1kW electric motor equivalent to a 3hp petrol motor with a 915Wh lithium ion battery.

Although it weighs almost as much as the Yamaha when assembled (17kg), it breaks down into three parts making it much easier to lift onto the tender’s transom as well as store. And of course there’s no risk of petrol or oil spills.

The main shaft and motor weighs 11kg, while the battery accounts for most of the rest. An optional Travel bag (£199) provides extra protection for long-term storage.

Throttle arm detaches along with the battery and motor for easier stowage and carrying

It’s a beautifully designed motor that is stylish, well built and beautifully engineered. Assembly is a little bit fiddlier than the ePropulsion Spirit and requires more care as although it’s waterproof, the battery on this model won’t float and at £829 a pop, replacements aren’t cheap.

A built-in GPS gives speed over ground but also real time range as well as current draw and battery percentage so you know exactly how far you can go at any given pace.

On the water it’s a joy to use with no pull cord, choke, stale petrol or oiled up carburettors to worry about. You just clip the magnetic kill cord onto the top of the throttle arm, press the on button, twist the throttle and away you go.

There is no gear lever or idle speed, it just sits silently at rest waiting for you to apply some throttle. The lack of noise and vibration is a revelation, especially under way when the only sound you’ll hear is water passing the hull.

915Wh battery gives a claimed 4.6nm at half throttle but doesn’t float

It makes exploring creeks and rivers so much more enjoyable. Its top speed of 4.7 knots solo and 4.2 knots two-up was a little shy of the petrol engines but not enough to make a big difference, while a claimed range of 18nm at half throttle (around 3 knots) or 4.6nm at full throttle is more than enough for most needs.

Unlike the petrol motors it also has a reverse gear, simply by twisting the throttle the other way. It is more than double the cost of a petrol motor but for cleanliness, refinement, ease of use and sheer enjoyment we reckon it’s worth it.

Whether it can justify the £369 premium over the ePropulsion is harder to say.

Torqeedo Travel 1103C electric outboard motor specification

Power: 1.1kW/3hp Weight: 17.3kg Battery: 915Wh Speed: 4.7 knots (solo) / 4.2 knots (2 up) Noise: Silent (idle) / 80db (max) Warranty: 2 years Price: £2,019 MBY rating: 5/5

Long tiller arm intrudes on space but still a joy to use after noisy petrol rivals

ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Plus electric outboard motor

Chinese company ePropulsion is the new electric kid on the block and clearly has its sights set on Torqeedo. The Spirit 1.0 Plus has a slightly less powerful 1.0kW motor but a longer lasting 1,276Wh battery that floats if dropped overboard.

It’s a bit heavier than the Torqeedo at 19.3kg, but most of that extra weight is in the removable battery, with the motor and shaft weighing a comparable 10.6kg.

Unlike the Torqeedo, the throttle arm is permanently attached to the shaft but folds down parallel to it for storage. Charging takes 8.5 hours using the standard 240v charger or 3.5 hours with the optional fast charger. Solar and 12v DC chargers are also extras, as is a travel bag.

Assembly is a little bit quicker and easier than the Torqeedo. The throttle arm folds up, the battery locks into place using a sprung handle and there is only one threaded power cord to connect.

It lacks the Torqeedo’s built-in GPS so displays range as remaining cruising time at your current speed as well as battery level.

It’s not quite as useful for working out whether you’ve got enough charge to reach a specific place but most tender journeys are short enough not to need this. Besides, the bigger battery means you will have a longer range anyway; ePropulsion claims 22nm at around 3.5 knots.

1,276Wh battery floats and has a claimed range of 22nm at 3.5 knots

On the water it’s slightly less powerful electric motor means it can’t quite match the pace of the Torqeedo let alone the petrol engines (4.3 knots solo, 4.1 knots two up) but the difference is small enough for it not to be a deal breaker.

However, it is just as quiet and user-friendly as the Torqeedo with a similar magnetic kill cord and shaped throttle that allows you to instinctively feel how far you’ve twisted it.

The larger, slower revolving plastic propellers of these electric motors give excellent low speed control and a proper reverse without having to swing the motor through 180 degrees.

They also have centrally mounted (rather than offset) throttle arms meaning you can sit comfortably on either side, although the ePropulsion’s longer arm does sometimes get in the way on a small tender.

From a subjective point of view we don’t think it looks quite as stylish or neatly-finished as the Torqeedo but it’s three-year warranty is longer than Torqeedo’s two-year offering, and it’s £369 cheaper at £1,650.

ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Plus electric outboard motor specifications

Power: 1.0kW Weight: 19.3kg Battery: 1,276Wh Speed: 4.3 knots (solo) / 4.1 knots (2 up) Noise: Silent (idle) / 80db (max) Warranty: 3 years Price: £1,650 MBY rating: 5/5

Buy it now from promarinestore.co.uk

All of the engines were tested for size, weight, performance, ease of use and refinement under way

Conclusions: Which is the best small outboard motor for my boat?

We could make a case for buying any of these engines as different boat owners have different priorities. For some, simplicity and reliability will outweigh everything, while for others storage space, ease of use or refinement will be key.

However, unless budget is your number one priority then it’s hard to ignore the appeal of the latest generation of electric outboard motors. Other than a slight reduction in outright performance they trump the petrol motors in almost every regard. They are cleaner, quieter, easier to lift and store, and require no effort to start.

They give better low-speed manoeuvrability, require less maintenance and are likely to be more reliable as a result. With their slower-turning plastic propellers and lack of petrol vapours and toxic emissions, they are arguably safer too.

Unless you regularly make round trips of 15nm or more in your tender, the range issue is also something of a red herring as most of the time you will be able to charge the battery overnight at home or on the boat.

Choosing between the Torqeedo and the ePropulsion is largely a matter of personal preference but we reckon the ePropulsion has the edge with regards to value for money and its more powerful floating battery.

If you’d prefer to stick with a petrol outboard motor then our top pick would be the Yamaha 2.5hp. It’s a bit heavier and pricier than the competition but it feels sturdier and better engineered too. It also delivered the best performance on test as well as being the smoothest and quietest of the petrol engines.

The Suzuki sneaks into second place as the best compromise between lightness, ease of use, performance and refinement, with Honda and Selva sharing third place depending on whether price and performance or simplicity, brand reputation and length of warranty are more important to you.

Small outboard motor specifications at a glance

First published in the October 2021 issue of MBY.

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electric trolling motors for small sailboats?

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i recently purchased a san juan 21, 7'' beam, weighs 1250 lbs. i am considering powering it with electric trolling motor(s), the kind typically used by fishermen for keeping quiet. naturally, this is not a permanent arrangement. i intend to install a small gas outboard in a short while, but need a quick power fix to move the boat and get me around in the meantime. has anyone tried this before? will the engines produce enough power to get me through the water? i have access to some really cheap electric motors, which is why i am even considering this. any guidance would be most appreciated.  

I have powered a 18'' daysailer with a 1.2hp outboard. It worked OK. There was a guy that powered a 25'' sailboat with a simular motor. He moved slow. Unfortunately the trolling motors are rated in pounds of thrust and the small outboards in horsepower. In short I think that it would work in light winds to move you a short distance in and out of the dock. I''ve seen some bass boats moving along at several knots with their trolling motors.  

The sailing school I went to allowed you to charter their school boats, Tanzer 22s, for day sails. They had 12 boats or so, but only three outboards. If you didn''t get there early, you had to get towed out and back. So I pulled a trolling motor off of my small aluminum fishing boat (35-pounds of thrust) and brought it with me for the Tanzer. Got me out away from the dock and out on the water, and back with no problem. In later years I used it on a Catalina 22 with similar results. You didn''t move fast, but even in a blow you could make forward progress. They make 55-pound thrust saltwater motors and I was considering one of those to replace an old Johnson 9.9 that was a bit finicky. Was motoring out next to a J-24 that had one of them, and the guy was moving along very smartly, much faster than I did with the smaller motor. The 55-pound thrust motor is used with a 12-volt deep cycle battery. If you rig up a 24-volt system, you can get electric motors that have much higher thrust. These would be more than enough for a small sailboat.  

I power my Express 27 (2450#) with a Honda 2HP. The motor only weighs 28lbs and burns 1qt/hr. In protected waters, I can motor at about 5-6 knots, and it''s never failed to start.  

Quite a while back I owned a Holder 20 that I think weighs about the same as your San Juan. I used an old Sears trolling motor and a marine battery as an auxiliary. It worked fine. I eventually moved up to a 2 HP Honda outboard, and that worked even better. Gerhard  

I currently use a walmart bought 50lb thrust electric to push my 18Ft trimaran around. works great, very quiet no fumes and just needs an occasional battery charge. A friend has alos used one to push his Oday 20'' as well. Stan  

I have a 22' US Yacht and I want to go down from an 8HP 2 stroke to a 2HP Honda 4 stroke and I'm wondering if it will help at all when the winds pick up and I decide to try and head into the wind to lower my sails. 8 and 9.9 HP motors are just too heavy and that's what I've been using for over 10 years. I like everything about Hondas little 2 except I know I'm loosing a lot of power and my only concern is what happens in a heavy storm?  

I was on a capri 22 with a 2 hp honda on the Delaware river which has a strong current, it did "ok", not a world beater. If I was in any coastal conditions, I would like a bigger motor, perhaps a 3.5 hp ?  

Thank you. Looks like the Tohatsu you have is the 2 stroke and that they do not make anymore. They do have a 4 stroke though and their prices look better than Honda and Yamaha. ]  

I use a 30 pound pushpower trolley (probably the smallest) on my inflatable dinghy. The consumption is about 230 watt. I use two 80 amp batteries. One in the dinghy, the other on board the ship for charging. One charge last for 4 hours use. For charging I use a 2,5 KW gas-generator. If were not that I also need to use the generator for a whole lot of other charging purposes, like charging the batteries for use with refrigerator, TV, computers etc. I would probably spend more gasoline, make more noyce charging the batteries for the dinghy than i would using a small 5 -6 HP two-stroke for propulsion. I believe you need to make an input/output calculation of the charge/use of current. It is the charging capacity that will define the distance of "the point of no return".  

I had one on my Siren, a 36lb thrust motor attached to a group 24 battery. It worked just fine, pushed the boat at 3.5mph.  

I thought this thread had something to do with electric motor propulsion? Howard  

I'm interested in electric trolling motor too I have a 25' fixed keel Quarter Tonner weighing 1600 kg and am seriouly considering using a 80 lb thrust 24V trolling motor. These motors have up to 1140 Watt motors, direct drive without gearbox losses so would probably equate to about 2 HP (1500 Watts, less gearing losses). Would only be used for moving around pens and getting in and out of Yacht Club marina. I intend to eventually replace my 6HP Volvo in-board with a 5KW electric, but that will take time. I'd be interested in others using these great little motors for larger yachts.  

Where I sail is a nature preserve and no gas engines are allowed. On my Elan 19 I have a 550W Minkota E55. This is the most powerful 12V trolling Minkota there is but it's still only about 2/3 of a HP. I flat water I can get 2.5 knots but it will not punch into more than a force 3 headwind. I only use it to get back if becalmed. There are boats with several kW electric motors but these are hugely expensive. Unless you are on a lake or very sheltered waters with never any current, forget it. Buy a gas O/B.  

Thanks For that feedback. Very informative and valuable.  

I am not a huge fan of electric motors, but a 17' Siren in our marina has been slippig in and out of the harbour this season with a Minn Kota trolling motor on the transom, and I was looking for a new propulsion system for our small dinghy, so I decided to try electric, for a couple of reasons: 1. Our dinghy is LIGHT. TOO light. ie, tippy. In fact, too tippy to safely load into from the dock, as our dock is 3 feet above the floor of the dinghy. So I figured the added ballast of a group 27 battery would help, and I liked the fact that the battery ballast was movable to make allowances for payload. 2. Ergonomically, our boat was too small to start our 2 stroke OB. The pull was too long, and you ran out of boat before you ran out of rope. When you did get the OB started, with no neutral, you better make sure you are pointed in the right direction. So, this wekend we strapped a Minn Kota 24 lb. thrust trolling motor on the transom, and SWMBO took it for a test drive. The results were mixed. When it ran, it ran well, and powered the dinghy along respectably.... BUT, our marina has a big issue with weeds... and so does our trolling motor. On the shakedown cruise, my wife repeatedly had to clear the prop, as it simply did not have enough "oomph" to get rid of the wad of weeds that it collected. Maybe a "weedless" prop will help. We plan to install one next weekend. On the upside, , SWMBO did like the quiet, the fact that the motor had a reverse, and the added stability provided by the group 27 ballast. I like the light weight of the motor and the fact that we don't have to carry an additional tank of fuel. The downside is that that ballast also cut into available legroom, which reduces the usability of the boat as a 2 person conveyance. The verdict? The jury is still out. With a little dinghy frame redesign work, we might be able to make the battery stow a little better, and with a new prop weeds may not be an issue. I'll report back with an update next week.  

Minn kotas RT202/em The Minn kota RT202/em can be used at variable voltage and will deliver a fine force behind your boat. The RT160/em and the 101 should be exceptional power. These are salt water trawlers and the prices are in line or as much as half in line with gas motors. And to top it all off ad a folding prop and your good to go. Specifications for Minn Kota's saltwater Engine Mount motors: Model Motor Configuration Maximum Thrust Volts/Max. Amp Draw Recommended Boat Length MSRP RT202/EM Dual 202 36/98 22' - 26' $1499.99 RT160/EM Dual 160 24/116 20' - 24' $999.99 RT101/EM Single 101 36/49 18' - 22' $899.99 RT80/EM Single 80 24/58 16' - 20' $799.99 RT55/EM Single 55 12/50 14' - 18' $599.99 Also search youtube for minn kota and electric boats These guys sell a 20hp kit that will work as an inboard replacement or outboard. They also have an electric outboard. Electric Motorsport :: Marine Thats 20 horsies inboard for 1400.00 think about it.  

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Small Motors for Boats: A Complete Buying Guide

Searching for small motors for boats to give you a better range and security in mind than paddling?

Look no further than an electric motor for your small boat, considering the power and range it could provide, its quiet nature, portability, and other unbeatable advantages (see part 1).

And the higher upfront cost of the electric motor for small boats can be easily compensated by longer runtime and less maintenance cost, making it a cost-effective choice in the long run.

Today we are going to talk about how to select the best small motors for boats that are portable, easy to start, and with satisfying battery life and speed to get the best out of your small boats.

Also, we will introduce the best small motors for boats ranging from 3 hp to 10 hp to satisfy your needs for inflatable boats, Jon boats, dinghies, etc.

Table of Content:

• Why Electric Motor for Small Boat

Top 3 Small Motors for Boats in 2020

Small engines for boats buying guide.

Why Electric Motors for Small Boats

Some of you might be considering the more affordable trolling motors, small gas engines for boats, and the all-electric motor for small boats.

If you’ve done the research, you’ll find that the electric motors for small boats have a lot of unbeatable advantages compared to the trolling motor and small gas motors for boats, making it the most popular choice today for small boat owners.

And anglers choose the electric motor for small boats mainly for the following reasons:

#1. Quietest Small Engine for Boat

One of the most obvious benefits of the electric motor for small boats is that it is so quiet (usually 55 db max) that you can hardly hear the engine noise at all, making the whole journey a lot more enjoyable and successful – no noise will spook the fish.

You can compare the noise difference between small gas motors for boats vs electric in this video:

Small motor models for boats in comparison: 3 hp ePropulsion electric motor vs 3 hp Mercury gas engine

The electric motors for small boats are a game changer for the boating experience. If you are looking for a prime experience with your small boats, electric motors are the best choice.

#2. More Power & Extra Long Trolling Range

With small electric motors for boats, you will gain more power than trolling motors and have comparable long trolling range as small gas motors for boats, but in a much more efficient way：

#1. Electric motor for small boats usually provides at least 3 hp power to get you to the fishing spot quietly and quickly. It is a huge power boost compared with the trolling motor that provides 112 lbs at best.

#2. Compared to small gas motors for boats, electric small outboards are much more efficient and environment friendly especially when trolling at a slow speed

These two factors combined make small electric outboards for boats the best choice if you are looking for a little bit more power as an outboard and long battery life in general use.

#3. Portable, Foldable & Lightweight

Besides, a big winning point of small electric motors for boats is that it is highly integrated and portable with a lightweight. For example, the 3 hp small motor for a boat only weighs about 10 kg.

Unlike the gas small motors for boats, the electric types can fold their tiller and some small motors for boats (usually the models under 3 hp) even come with an integrated and light-weighted battery pack.

So the electric motor for small boats is just as convenient and you don’t need to worry about the heavy batteries issues as the higher horsepower motors.

#4. Easy to Start: Friendly for Women and Children

We all know the pain of getting the small diesel motor for boats started. It’s loud and the manual starting cord is not friendly to the female and children when you are going on a family trip.

The electric small engine for boat is designed to save you headaches with a super easy electric start. Just turn on the electric throttle, and you are ready to go.

You might have heard about the electric starting gas outboard, but the tricky thing is that it is usually only available for large horsepower gas outboards (20 hp and above).

So if you are looking for a small motor for a boat with electric starting, you will need an all-electric small motor for your boat.

#5. Other Benefits of Electric Motors for Small Boats

Other than all the benefits mentioned above, the electric outboard motor for small boats has also inherited some big advantages from its “electric” nature:

• Minimum maintenance
• Clean, no petrol leak or stain
• Exhaust-free
• Solar charging capability
• Helm Steering Compatibility
• Neutral & Reverse Gear

Learn more details on this post: When You Need Small Motors for Boats, Do You Choose Electric or Petrol

If you are in a hurry and want a quick answer on the best small motors for boats, check out the three small engines for boats that are proven to be a solid choice for users worldwide (with a distribution network covering over 40 countries over the world).

#1. 3 HP Small Motor for Boat:  Spirit 1.0 Plus

This 3 hp outboard is the most popular choice for people looking for a small motor for boats including the Jon boats, dinghies, RIBs, tender boats, sailboats, etc.

Thanks to the advanced direct-drive technology, the small motor for boat is totally maintenance-free for a lifetime, saving you a lot of trouble and money over time.

Ranked as a small motor for boats, it can still reach 9 km/h max speed to drive a 12 ft boat with a 150 kg load and provide more than sufficient propulsion for a 10 ft tender or work as auxiliary power for daysailers of up to 1.5 tons.

Check out how this 3 hp small motor for boats work in the water:

#2. 6 HP Small Motor for Boat:  Navy 3.0

Want a little more juice for your small boat like tenders, RIBs, small sailboats, and fishing boats?

This 6 hp small motor for boat would be your best option.

It works excellently with our exclusive Navy battery, so you don’t need to go through the trouble searching for the right battery type and brand. The Navy battery delivers the best performance for this small motor for boat.

The small motor for boat can get to 20 km/h at fast acceleration on a 12 ft boat with 150 kg load and can easily motorize a 3-ton boat, just as powerful as a 6 hp petrol outboard.

Check out how this 3 hp small motor for boats works in the water:

#3. 9.9 HP Small Motor for Boat:  Navy 6.0

Some of you might look for a small motor for boats like bass boats, RIBs, and workboats up to 6 tons, and want to level up the speed on the water.

In that case, this 9.9 hp small motor for boat will suit you better.

The best point for this small motor for boats is its advanced cooling system. With the closed-loop liquid cooling technology, the motor can handle much faster speed and acceleration.

The 9.9 hp small motor for boat delivers 27 km/h max speed when driving a 12 ft boat with 150 kg load and remains at the top speed for hours.

Check out how this 9.9 hp small motor for boats works in the water:

It’s not that easy to decide on a suitable small motor for a boat given considerations to the numerous options available on the market:

Will the more affordable trolling motors do the job as a small engine for a boat with decent battery life and speed? Or should you go electric or gas in terms of the small motors for boats?

• Usually, we will recommend anyone that wants a superior boating experience (easy start without any noise and terrible smell) to go with an electric motor for small boats.
• Trolling motors are good tool for fishing and slow speed trolling, but if you want higher power than 112 lbs (the power rate of the most powerful trolling motor by far, equivalent to 1.87 hp), they are not a good choice.

So how to select motors for small boats? There are mainly two things to consider:

#1. What size motor can I put on my boat?

There is typically a metal tag inside the boat that tells you the maximum horsepower you can legally put on your boat.

But within that range, the ideal size of small motors for boats is actually decided on your boat type, boat load/weight, and your speed and range requirement.

Just to give you an easy reference, an ePropulsion 3 hp small engine for boat can power a 14-feet dinghy boat at 6.2 mph max speed, and also keep a 20-feet sailboat running at similar speed.

You can check how the small motors for boats perform in these performance bulletins first to find the closest reference model, or you may consult the local dealer. If you would like to fill out the form have a dealer contact me , our dealer closest to you will contact you shortly.

#2. What brand/manufacturer of small motors for boats should I trust?

If you are not sure which brand to turn to, it’s always advised to check the small outboard motor reviews before actually getting one. Learning how the outboard motors work in real life can help you understand what you’re going to deal with.

Also remember to check out the warranty of the small motors for boats and communicate with the dealers beforehand, which will be helpful in case there is anything that needs to be fixed during use in the future.

And that’s especially important if you are purchasing a used small motor for boats or one on sale.

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