sailboat hull paint

How Much Does It Cost To Paint The Hull Of A Sailboat?

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Sailboats are designed to be exposed to the harshest of elements – water. As such, there is much more to painting the hull that choosing a color and slapping it on. A quality hull painting job will take time and have a range of cost involved. Hull painting is more than simply decorative, it is also protective.

Table of contents

Do I Need To Paint My Hull?

There are instances where the bottom painting isn’t necessary. If your boat is typically stored in a dry storage facility or on a trailer and only hits the water for a short time, you can opt not to paint. In these cases, your boat hull can be properly maintained with a heavy coat of wax and periodic cleanings. For most other boats that are docked in the water or see heavy off land use, bottom painting is essential.

Once you have made the choice to paint your hull, you must maintain it with periodic cleanings, paint removal and repainting with antifouling paint . This will help preserve the integrity of your hull intact and in proper operational condition.

What Is Antifouling Paint?

If your boat is usually stored in a dry storage facility or on a trailer and only hits the water for a short time, you can opt not to paint. This paint is applied all along the bottom of the hull up to the water line of the boat. This paint helps to protect the boat from various forms of water-based damage that can occur. Hull paint also prevents barnacles, weeds and other water-based life from attaching to the bottom of the sailboat.

Just like with regular paint there is a diverse range of brands, styles, and colors to choose from. Aside from these options, there are three types of antifouling paint; hard, hybrid, and ablative. The type you choose largely depends on the type of sailboat you have and your overall budget.

Hull Paint Types

Hard bottom paint is best for powerboats or other fast moving boats. It is a longlasting coating that is very hard and has a thick layer of biocide. The biocide layer wears away over time which allows the hull paint to last longer prior replacement. Once the biocide has been depleted, however, the hull must be repainted.

Ablative paint is well suited to casual boats and slow-moving sailboats. Unlike hard bottom paint, this type wears away directly over time. As the paint wears away while moving through the water, it releases more biocides. Many boaters call this paint self-polishing. As the paint wears thin on the hull, it will need to be replaced. Since there is less paint to remove, repainting the hull is easier and tends to be more affordable.

Hybrid paint is exactly what the name implies. It is a mix of both hard and ablative paint and can be used on all types of sailboats.

How Much Does It Cost to Paint a Sailboat?

Now that you recognize some of the basics about the need for hull painting as well as the main types of paint available, we can cover the cost. When it comes to hull painting, you can hire a professional or you can do it yourself. Just like most hobby projects, compared to hiring a professional you will save money. On the other hand, having your hull professionally painted will cost you more, but it will take less time and come with a guarantee.

DIY Hull Painting

A certain peace comes from caring for your sailboat with your own hands. If you choose to take on the task of painting your hull on your own, make sure to plan adequately and give yourself plenty of time to get the job executed properly. Though you can expect to pay less when you do it yourself, the cost still will vary widely. The main expense depends on the amount of paint you need and the type of paint you choose for your hull.

Hull paint is sold in one-gallon containers and can range from $20 - $200 per gallon. The price range depends on primarily the brand and style of hull paint. Aside from the paint, you will also need to budget for painting supplies such as;

• Paintbrushes
• Drop Cloths
• Paint trays
• Masking tape
• Breathing mask

The size of your boat will determine how much product you need, and each brand list the amount needed per linear foot on the can. The majority of ablative hull paints will require two coats and modified epoxy hull paints only require one coat. Make sure to keep these in mind when calculating your cost.

• Single coat paints for boats that are between 20 – 35 feet will need 1 ½ gallon of paint.
• Double coat paints for boats that are between 20 – 35 feet will need 3 gallons of paint.
• Single coat paints for boats that are between 36 – 35 feet will need 3 ½ gallons of paint.
• Double coat paints for boats that are between 36 – 51 feet will need 6 gallons of paint.
• Single coat paints for boats that are between 53 – 63 feet will need 4 ½ gallons of paint.
• Double coat paints for boats that are between 53 – 63 feet will need 9 gallons of paint.

Professional Hull Painting

Hull painting by a professional starts off with a base cost that is determined by the size of your sailboat. As of 2019, the average cost per linear ft falls around $25 for basic selections which can range up to $125 per linear foot for premium selections. Boats that need more work or additional repairs may incur an additional cost.

Customarily, professionals will charge a moderately lower rate for larger boats over smaller ones. There are also cost involved with where your boat will be painted. Sailboats that must be blocked, stored or transported prior to painting will incur heftier fees than those on a trailer or stored on a personal slip. Older boats that have damage to the hull or other defects will need to be repaired prior to painting the hull which can also increase the cost. Virgin hulls, basically ones that have never been painted before will cost less to complete since there will be no need to have a paint removal service completed.   

Depending on your boat size and your exact location, you can expect to pay the following estimated rates for basic hull painting & premium hull painting.

• $25.00 per linear ft. –  29′ sailboat  + $155.00 for premium upgrades
• $29.00 per linear ft. – 30′ to 36′ sailboat + $190.00 for premium upgrades
• $34.00 per linear ft. – 37′ to 43′ sailboat + $250.00 for premium upgrades
• $38.00 per linear ft.. – 44′ to 49′ sailboat + $330.00 for premium upgrades
• $43.00 per linear ft. – 50′ to 54′ sailboat + $400.00 for premium upgrades
• $49.00 per linear ft. – 55′ to 59′ sailboat + $490.00 for premium upgrades
• $56.00 per linear ft. – 60′ and larger sailboats + $555.00 for premium upgrades

The Bottom Line

When it comes down to it, the cost of painting your sailboat hull is neither excessive or unmanageable. You have a range of options that will allow you to choose the best paint and finish for your hull that falls within your personal budget. Caring for your hull will ensure you get the most use out of your sailboat for years to come. Proper hull maintenance will prevent the growth of waterborne pests such as slime and barnacles while also giving your boat a sophisticated appearance. We wish you smooth sailing ahead and hope to see you again soon!

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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How to Paint a Sailboat? – A Step-by-Step Guide

Written by J. Harvey / Fact checked by S. Numbers

Painting a sailboat hull not only lets you save money, but it can also be quite gratifying. Plus, learning how to paint a sailboat can be likened to taking that one important step of truly claiming your vessel as your own. I mean, they’re our darlings, right?

This simple guide teaches you how to paint the hull of a boat, including a sailboat’s. Overall, it’s not hard to grasp – just a bit tiring, and plenty of waiting is involved.

Table of Contents

Prepare the Following

Step 1. give the sailboat a thorough cleaning., step 2. start sanding the hull’s surface., step 3. prepare the primer, then apply it., step 4. prepare the paint, then start applying the topcoat and antifouling coat., the importance of painting your sailboat, how often do i need to paint my sailboat, some best paints to use for a sailboat, safety tips for painting.

• Marine-grade paint
• Primer (epoxy recommended) and hardener
• Sandpaper (80-grit, 220-grit, and 400 grit)
• Cleaning cloth
• Masking tape
• Roller (or paint sprayer)
• PPEs such as gloves, a coat, and a respirator

Choose a workspace with good ventilation to avoid exposing yourself to fumes, which have many detrimental but highly avoidable side effects. Painting the boat on its trailer on a clear, dry day and positioning it so the paint won’t get direct sunlight exposure are ideal.

Practical Steps for Painting a Sailboat

This guide works well for fresh paint jobs and even if you’re repainting the boat.

Any dirt, debris, and grease should be taken care of in any sailboat paint job. Check for debris and algae clinging to the hull and the sailboat deck, and just use the brush and cloth to get it off.

Double-check parts of the keel because mud and seaweed tend to stick to it the most. If there are barnacles present, you may have to power wash them or any stubborn green stuff you encounter.

Dip the sponge in a mix of boat soap and water, then start scrubbing any stains. Afterward, give the sailboat a good rinse. Wait for it to dry.

Put on your respirator and coat. Use an 80-grit or 100-grit to roughen the surface and remove any lingering trace of old paint by scrubbing in circular motions.

Then, grab the 220-grit to smoothen the surface more. That said, an 80-grit or 40-grit paired with a sander will do just as well, based on my experience every time I repaint a fiberglass boat .

You’d want the surface to be as even and smooth as possible before applying the first coat.

The epoxy primer helps to ensure that the paint will adhere well, too, so I recommend you don’t skip it. Epoxy also acts as a good sealant and prevents cracking and rust.

Before you apply it, put some masking tape over the areas of the hull that you don’t want the coats to go over. It will ensure even coats, too.

Every epoxy primer and hardener combination is different in one way or another. As such, follow what the manufacturer recommends when mixing. Be mindful of how quickly the mixture hardens.

Once you’re done with that step, use the roller to apply even coats of it over the whole surface of the hull. Depending on the size of your boat, this may take a while and can be tiring, so I suggest you ask for help.

Done? It’s time to wait a day to apply another layer. The next day, you can either apply another coat of primer (up to 4 coats is great) or proceed to the painting part.

Mix the paints according to the instructions.

You need to make sure the primer has dried before painting. I suggest two layers of topcoat followed by two equal coats of antifouling paint. But you can also skip to the antifouling paint immediately – your boat, your choice.

• Be sure to pick a good marine-grade paint like TotalBoat’s Alumipaint AF or Interlux’s Fiberglass Bottomkote Aqua. Better yet, you can just head to your local marine shop and ask for recommendations (trust me, they know their sailboat paint best).
• We’re not exactly doing something artsy here, like making an easy sailboat painting with acrylics. You want coats that can take a beating, so choose marine grade only.

Once you’re ready to work, use a roller or a sprayer to apply the paint. Personally, I’d suggest the latter choice because if you spray paint a boat, you’ll get a sleeker, more attractive finish, although it requires some skills.

Therefore, if you’ve never handled a sprayer, the best way to paint a boat would be with a roller. Here are some tips to ensure the best results:

• Pour the paint into the t
• Slightly dampen the roller with clean water.
• Lightly dip the roller into the paint so that no more than half of it is submerged.
• Run the roller on the paint tray’s ramp a few times to evenly distribute the pigment.
• Run the roller from the top to the bottom of the hull. Make sure you apply even pressure as you do so. Remember: the strokes should be parallel and uniform; under no circumstance should you change the stroke to a different pattern.
• Use a paintbrush to access cavities and holes on the hull that your roller can’t reach.
• Apply the suggested number of coats for each type of paint, taking care to sand with the 400-grit or higher with each However, make sure you confirm that it’s recommended by the paint’s manufacturer.

• The first is aesthetics. How can your gaze possibly not be arrested by an exquisitely painted sailboat sailing in the distance? It’s an automatic postcard image.
• Secondly but just as important (if not more), you’re protecting your baby from damage, barnacles, rot, and other nasty things, extending its life and boosting its value.
• It exercises your creativity. Try out some sailboat paint schemes available on sites like Pinterest, and you’ll know what I’m talking about.

I’ve certainly tried one or two of these ideas myself, but not on a skiff and jon boat that I made from scratch. My wife and buddies were positively mesmerized.

• Much like how videos on YouTube showing easy boat acrylic painting puts my mind at ease, I can say the same for when I’m painting sailboat hulls.

A lot of my friends who love to sail, fish, and paint sailboats on canvas say the same since they’re often more than willing to stop by and lend a helping hand during my paint days. We exchange sailboat painting ideas occasionally, and they like the method I’ve shared here.

As such, painting boats can be a way to relax your mind and help you connect with like-minded people. You may also learn helpful tips regarding sailing and boat maintenance along the way. 

You need to paint your boat every year if you let it sit in the water all the time and the vessel shows signs of degradation.

That said, if you paint your sailboat with high-quality products, such as marine-grade paint, the coating can last for as long as 10 years, especially if you’re extra careful with your boat and have proper storage for it.

Besides the two brands I mentioned above, you can also try antifouling paints by Rust-Oleum. I just rotated between TotalBoat, Rust-Oleum, and Interlux because these three provided the best results among the sailboat paints I tested.

Rust-Oleum’s Topside Paint paired with the brand’s fiberglass primer work well with fiberglass hulls. But I can say the same for TotalBoat’s Topside Paint. To me, it’s really just whichever of the three is available on my local marine shop’s shelf. Besides choosing the right paint, you may also ask yourself how much it costs to paint a boat. Is it worth it? Check out this article to get the answer!

If you follow most of the preliminary preparatory steps I’ve shared here, you will be keeping yourself safe from start to finish.

• Wear the PPEs I said above every time you’re sanding and applying epoxy and paint on the surface.
• Read any warning labels on the paint and other chemicals you use, like acetone for drying the paint quickly. Handle it with care always.
• Learn how to dispose of your paint properly. It’d be even better if you learned how to recycle it.
• Beware of accidents that may happen while you’re doing the cleaning and prep work. I mean, I’ve hit my head on a sailboat mast while doing them, so I reckon the chance of such misfortunes happening isn’t zero, even on a paint job.

To recap everything I’ve said regarding how to paint a sailboat:

• Position your boat in a good workplace.
• Clean and sand its hull well using boat soap and water and sandpaper.
• Apply 4 coats of the primer, 2 coats of the topcoat, then 2 antifouling coats, or skip to the antifouling paint coat immediately.
• Decide how you’re going to apply the paint based on the finish you want and your skill in using each tool.

We wish you the best of luck with your painting project. If you want to share your results with us, feel free to reach out via the comment below.

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The Best Boat Paints to Decorate and Repair Your Ride

No matter what type of boat you own, painting it and adding a bit of personal flair is always fun. Whether you choose to add a colorful stripe to the side or repaint the entire boat’s body, using high-quality, durable, and long-lasting paint is essential. Regardless of how you choose to paint your boat, you first need to decide on the right boat paint for your DIY project. To help you out, we've collected the best boat paints of 2024. The classic  TotalBoat Boat Paint is our top pick, and you can check out our buying guide and other recommendations to learn more!

Our Top Picks For Boat Paints

• Best Overall: TotalBoat Boat Paint Shop Now ➔
• Easiest To Use: Duralux Boat Paint Shop Now ➔
• Quick Drying: Rust-Oleum Boat Paint Shop Now ➔
• Best Colors: Marine Coat One Gel Repair Kit Shop Now ➔
• 1 The Types of Boat Paint
• 2 Topside boat paint
• 3 Bottom paint
• 4 Wood boat paint
• 5 Tips When Using Boat Paint
• 6 Use the right type of paint
• 7 Follow the instructions carefully
• 8 Give ample time for the paint to dry
• 9 Choose the right colors

Can boat paint be used on all parts of the boat?

When should i paint my boat, does boat paint last forever, related articles, the best boat paints of 2024, best overall.

TotalBoat Boat Paint

Boats are almost always left exposed to the elements, which is why you’ll want a boat paint that will last you for years to come. The TotalBoat Boat Paint is a solid choice for any boat lover and has more than 20 colors to choose from, including aqua mist, sea foam, and fire red. The paint leaves behind a gloss that’s bright and is sure to stand out among other boats at the dock. This boat paint is incredibly easy and simple to apply. You don’t need to be an expert to give your boat a good coating with this seamless paint. Thanks to this boat paint’s bold profile and numerous color options, we’ve chosen it as our best overall pick, particularly for those who want to try painting their boat for the first time.

• Glossy and durable finish
• Up to 20 colors to choose from
• Self-leveling formula
• Not all colors are always available

Easiest To Use

Duralux Boat Paint

For many, painting a boat can be a risky endeavor. Owning a boat isn’t very cheap, and making a mistake during the paint job can lead to stains and errors that are difficult to fix. So, unless you can afford professional help, you may not want to take the plunge. Fortunately, painting a boat isn’t rocket science and with the help of the Duralux Boat Paint, it can be a fun and easy task. The paint only needs two thin coats with either a brush, roller, or airless sprayer. As long as you don’t paint your boat under the sun, you’ll get consistent and reliable results with this paint. The range of colors is a little bit limiting, but if you can get past that this boat paint is a strong first choice for novice boat owners.

• Very easy to apply
• Can be applied with various tools
• Long-lasting finish
• No warm color options available

Quick Drying

Rust-Oleum Boat Paint

Are you pressed for time or just itching to head into the water as soon as possible? The Rust-Oleum Boat Paint offers a quick and easy solution to all your problems. This paint dries in as little as one or two hours, which means you can start boating on the very same day you apply the paint. With a formula that retains its gloss over time, your boat will look as good as new for months or years to come depending on how you maintain it. While this boat paint only offers eight color options, it has a nice range of colors and most boaters are sure to find exactly what they’re looking for. If you’re okay with neutral color tones, such as sand beige or battleship gray, this fast-drying boat paint is a great investment.

• Dries very quickly
• Retains its gloss
• Great for use on fiberglass
• Not many color options

Best Colors

Marine Coat One Gel Repair Kit

With an easy-to-use formula and fast-drying properties, this gel coat will make your DIY boat project into an effortless task. Its versatile nature extends beyond boats, making it a perfect choice for fiberglass and other materials as well.

The real charm of Marine Coat One is its ability to create perfect color matches, bringing a fresh, vibrant look to your ride. Mix it up to get your preferred shade and watch as your boat wears a new, sparkling look. And it’s not just about aesthetics, it’s about enhancing durability too. So, if you’re looking forward to a sailing season with a boat that looks brand new and stands strong, this might just be your best bet.

• Easy to mix and apply
• Durable and long-lasting
• Provides a good color match
• Instructions are not novice-friendly

The Ultimate Buying Guide to the Best Boat Paints

When launching a boat renovation project, there’s a lot to keep in mind, such as boat carpets , boat seats , boat cushions , and more. But the most important element of all is boat paint.  To renovate your boat, you’re going to need more than just regular old paint. Enter boat paint, a unique type of paint that is durable enough to stick to a boat in water.  Boat paint usually leaves behind a glossy finish that gives your vehicle a nice tone that really pops when out on the water.

Because boat paint is made to last, you can expect a coating to stay in good condition for months or even years to come. How long your boat paint lasts will vary depending on how often you use your boat, where you’re boating, and how you store your boat when not in the water. There’s a lot to consider when buying boat point, so we’ve prepared a guide to help you out. 

The Types of Boat Paint

Topside boat paint.

Topside paint is paint that’s applied on the top half of the boat, or the part of the boat that isn’t submerged in the water. While this type of paint can get wet, it’s used mostly for decorative purposes rather than protective purposes. You can get topside paint in a variety of colors and they can dry as quickly as one hour after application depending on the formula.

While topside paint may not be as protective as bottom boat paint, it’s still great for keeping your boat protected from harsh UV rays. Even your boat can feel the effects of the sun after weeks or months of exposure and a good coating of topside paint can prevent any UV damage from occurring on your boat’s hull.

Bottom paint

Bottom paint is a type of paint that’s applied to the bottom half of the boat, or the part of the boat that’s submerged underwater. This type of paint isn’t always visible as it’s under the water, but depending on how clear the water is you may be able to get a glimpse of it. Where bottom paint truly shines is in its ability to protect the boat from organisms in the water.

There are many critters in seas and lakes that can cause damage to your boat over time. Weeds and barnacles are some of the most common culprits. Bottom paint minimizes the chances of these critters from getting on your boat, ensuring it stays in good condition for much longer.

Wood boat paint

Wood boat paint is a type of paint that’s applied to wooden parts of the boat. These paints are not as long-lasting as other paints but are great if you want to preserve the wood finish on your boat.

Tips When Using Boat Paint

Use the right type of paint.

There are many types of boat paints that are used for certain applications. Before you think about the color or finish of the paint, first consider where you’re applying the paint. Are you trying to protect the bottom of your boat? Will you be adding color to the topside? Ask yourself these questions before buying so you can be sure to choose the correct type of paint, then you can choose the color.

Follow the instructions carefully

Paint is pretty easy to use and apply, but not all paints are the same. Depending on the formula of the paint, you may need to apply it a certain way or use specific tools for the best results. Even if you have experience painting walls, floors, or other surfaces, boats are a different thing entirely. You should always follow the instructions on the product packaging.

Give ample time for the paint to dry

Some paint formulas take overnight to dry, while others take only one or two hours. While you may be tempted to take the boat out for a ride as soon as the recommended drying time is over, it never hurts to wait one or two more hours just to be on the safe side. Unless you can comb over every inch of where you painted, it’s always a good idea to give the paint just a little extra time to dry. After all, the paint will be there for months or even years to come, so an extra hour won’t hurt.

Choose the right colors

Choosing the right colors for your boat paint can be a tricky task depending on how you want the paint to look. If you’re looking to simply paint over some scratches, it’s not too difficult to find the right color, but if you want to redecorate the hull that’s a different story. Think about what colors you like and how you want your boat to look. You may also want to consider the location itself, or where you plan on using the boat. These considerations may be trivial, but they’re worth thinking about if you want your boat to look nice in the end.

People Also Asked

No. There are certain types of boat paint used for specific parts of the boat, such as the topside or bottom.

If you feel like your boat could use a new paint job or if your boat has scratches from damage done by docking, it may be time to repaint your boat.

While boat paint formulas are made to last for as long as possible, these paints do not last forever and you will eventually have to apply another coat in the future.

Article Contributors

Sail magazine review team.

SAIL Magazine Review Team reports on best-selling products in sailing and boating. SAIL Magazine is reader-supported: When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Artificial Intelligence (large language models) may have been used in the research and creation of the content.

To ensure questions about product testing or a specific article are addressed, please contact [email protected]

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It Takes a Tough Sailor to Make a Smooth Boat Bottom

Fairing in through hull fittings will go a long way toward reducing bot­tom drag in light air, but it won’t really do the job unless the paint surface of the bottom is smooth.

A surprisingly high percentage of boats not used primarily for racing have bottom paint jobs that range from poor to atrocious. If your bottom has peeling patches that haven’t been in, brush marks from failure to smooth out thick bottom paints, or stipple marks from ap­plication with a roller, your boat will be slower in light air than it could be.

Bottom paints, unlike topside paints, are not formulated for smooth application, in most cases. They have a high solids content and quick-flashing solvents, a combination guaranteed to make smooth application difficult. Even the racing boat with the smoothest bottom didn’t start out that way. The smoothness is the result of a fair amount of time consuming, but not particularly difficult labor. If it pays off for the racing sailor, it can pay off for any sailor.

Unfortunately, the bottom of the typical non-racing boat generally gets a lick and a promise. Bottom painting is usually the very last thing done before the boat is launch­ed, and by that time all you want to do is get the thing in the water and go sailing. The bottom is a classic case of out of sight, out of mind.

If your bottom painting and boat launching sequence consists of slap it on and slip it in, you’re doing yourself and your boat no favor. Just one extra day of work can go a long way toward improving light air performance of almost any boat.

On the other hand, if your bottom paint is a peeling mess, one day of work won’t get you very far — but then your boat won’t get you very far very fast in winds under eight knots either.

While small areas of peeling paint can be faired in with polyester putty such as Bondo, it may be almost as much work to fair and patch as it is to start from scratch and do it right.

Chances are that if your bottom paint has begun to peel, it will only continue to get worse, in spite of patching of the finish. If you don’t take it all off this year, you’ll pro­bably have to do it next year.

Removing Bottom Paint

Getting the old bottom paint off is one of the least plea­sant tasks associated with boating. Most bottom paints sand poorly. Using a heat gun puts a lot of unpleasant and toxic vapors in the air. Drill-attached mechanical paint removing tools we have used are hopelessly slow.

That leaves chemical paint removers, and chemical paint removers are messy, expensive, and no fun at all. Generally, however, they are the best solution.

When choosing a paint remover, you must select one that is mild enough that it will not harm the hull material beneath the paint. If you have a fiberglass hull, use only a remover specifically formulated for use on fiberglass, such as International Fiberglass Pintoff 299. The use of more powerful removers may seriously damage your gelcoat, if in doubt, don’t use it!

When using paint removers, you must mask off areas of the hull that are not to be treated. Splashing of the remover is inevitable, so take the extra time to mask off topsides and boottop with newspaper and masking tape. Use paint remover sparingly near masking tape, as it may dissolve.

Use cheap, throwaway bristle brushes to apply paint remover. Foam brushes will dissolve. Do not under any circumstances use steel wool to remove paint sludge. The small particles of steel wool which inevitably break off will turn to tiny rust marks guaranteed to plague you forever.

Wear protective clothing when using paint remover. Old long sleeve shirts, old pants, and old shoes are called for, as are rubber gloves. Protective glasses are also a good idea.

Use a thick coat of paint remover, and be patient. Most people waste about half of each coat of remover by scrap­ing it off before the action is completed. The stuff is ex­pensive, so impatience is costly.

The ambient temperature will greatly affect the speed with which the remover acts, so you must rely on the ap­pearance of the surface to judge when the remover has done its things.

When the paint is bubbling off the surface, test a small area with a wide (3″) putty knife. If the paint peels off down to the fiberglass, it’s ready. If not, wait a few more minutes (but not so long that the mess becomes dry).

Realistically, several applications are likely to be required, particularly if there is buildup of several years of paint.

After the old paint is removed, it may be necessary to wash the hull, either with a solvent or with water, depending on the paint remover used. It is important that all traces of paint remover be eliminated before going on to the next step. A large portion of the success of a good bottom job both in light air performance and in longevity of the surface -lies in the preparation done before application of bottom paint. Bottom preparation means more than a good sanding to provide adhesion for the new paint. It means the creation of a smooth surface that is impervious to water.

While the process of gelcoat blistering is not completely understood, there is little doubt that overzealous sanding of bottom gelcoat can create a porous surface that increases the likelihood of blistering. At the same time, failure to adequately sand the bottom gelcoat means poor paint adhesion, flaking, and ultimately, a repeat of the paint stripping process.

The best way to prepare a gelcoat surface for the application of bottom paint is thorough machine sanding, followed by one or more coats of epoxy primer. The epoxy primer will provide a surface far more impervious to water than the original gelcoat surface of the hull.

Sanding can be done with a compact orbital sander, or with a foam pad in a slow speed rotary sander. Unless you’re skilled with a rotary sander, stick with the orbital type. A rotary sander in inexperienced hands is second only to a belt sander in its ability to turn a valuable boat to a piece of junk in minimum time. We once observed an overzealous owner with a rotary disc sander halve the value of a 34-footer in two days of grinding.

As a rule, 100 grit aluminum oxide paper in a sander such as the Makita 04510 will do an adequate job of surface preparation prior to the application of epoxy primer. Remove all sanding residue with an air hose, a vacuum cleaner, or a solvent wipedown before priming. If you use solvent, it must be compatible with the epoxy primer used. The thinner for the primer is usually the best choice.

Priming and Fairing Before priming, any obvious gouges in the surface of the hull should be faired out with an epoxy-based fairing putty. The dings must be thoroughly clean and dry before applying compound. A portable hair dryer can be used to remove all traces of moisture from gouges. You can use a premade fairing compound, such as Interlux 4496A/4497B, or you can make up your own from epoxy resin and microballoons or microspheres.

It is important that the fairing compound not be harder than the surrounding surface, or it will be almost impossible to smooth without creating hollows. For this reason, super hard epoxy compounds designed for mending broken metal are not recommended for fairing. An epoxy and microballoon mixture just dense enough to hang on a vertical surface without sagging off is ideal.

Priming with a two-part epoxy primer is the key to a long lasting bottom finish. Every major paint manufacturer makes this type of primer. A good example is Interlux 404/414 Barrier-Kote Epoxy primer, but there are plenty of others on the market.

Epoxy primers can be applied by brush, roller, or spraying. For the average boatowner, one of the best ways is to apply with a smooth roller while someone follows behind with a wide foam brush, smoothing out the roller nap marks. However you apply it, make the coat as smooth as possible, since sanding out surface irregularities in epoxy paint isn’t easy.

Putting a good bottom on your boat is probably one of the most time-consuming jobs you will face as a boatowner.

No matter how careful you are in applying the primer, sanding will be necessary. You can sand with the same electric sander used to prepare the surface before priming, but wet sanding with silicone carbide paper is faster and more effective. You cannot, of course, wet sand with an electric sander.

When wet sanding, you must use some type of sanding block. The ideal sanding block for the rounded surface of a hull is dense rubber, with just a little flexibility. Rubber blocks sold for auto body repairs are ideal for this. You must not sand without a block, as even the slight differential in pressure between the different fingers on your hand will make it difficult to get a really smooth surface.

220 grit paper, used wet, is just about right for sanding primer. If you find yourself cutting through to the base gelcoat in a lot of places, however, switch to finer paper.

The secret of wet sanding is to use plenty of water, as the paper clogs quickly. You use much less paper wet sanding than dry sanding if you rinse the paper constantly. It also helps to hose off the hull frequently. It is possible to wet sand without a hose, using a large bucket of water for rinsing your sanding block, but a hose is far more effective.

If your hull is a good, smooth fiberglass molding, wet sanding with a small block will be effective. If, however, there are numerous bumps and hollows, a longer sanding block will have to be used to keep from accentuating local irregularities in the surface. You can make your own “long boards” for fairing using l/4” plywood or Masonite, padded out with a thin layer of Neoprene or other dense, closed cell foam. Simple wood grips can be screwed to the top of the board, with the paper wrapped around and stapled to the top. A board long enough to accommodate two sheets of paper laid end to end is the maximum size one person can handle comfortably, and will do an adequate job on most surfaces.

As an alternative, you can use blocks of Foamglas, which can be cut to any size, and which works very well when used wet. Used dry, it makes a terrible mess, and is one of the most uncomfortable materials you will ever handle, as the small glass particles can really irritate the skin. A further disadvantage of Foamglas is that it is too abrasive for most surfaces, and will almost instantly cut through coats of primer. It is most effective in preliminary fairing in new construction or on a heavily puttied hull.

Foamglas is a product of Pittsburgh Corning, and is an insulating material used in the construction industry. Check the Yellow Pages under “Insulation Materials” for a local distributor. Foamglas is available in small, prepackaged pieces under various names (touted as a “miracle sanding product”) but the cost is ridiculous when purchased this way.

You must use heavy gloves, preferably leather, with taped up fingers, when using Foamglas. It will cut through fabric work gloves in a matter of minutes when sanding, so you can imagine what it can do to hands: it’s probably a good way to permantely remove your fingerprints.

As a rule, wet sand whenever possible. Not only will the paper work faster, but you will create no sanding dust to get in your hair, eyes, and skin.

After thoroughly sanding the first coat of epoxy primer, you will probably discover small surface irregularities that you missed the first time around with the fairing compound. Epoxy fairing compounds stick well to epoxy primer, so you can still touch them up before applying the next coat of primer.

If you’ve cut down through the primer to the gelcoat in only a few places, touch these up with a patch coat of epoxy primer before applying another full coat. If you’ve cut through in a lot of places, either your hull surface is uneven or you used too coarse a grit of sandpaper. If you need to spot prime more than about 10% of the bottom, just put on another full coat. It will go faster than a spot prime coat.

In all cases, a second full coat of epoxy primer is recommended. You really want a good, thick epoxy barrier between your bottom gelcoat and the water. In addition, a thick prime base will let you get away with years of wet sanding your bottom paint without fear of cutting through to the glass.

After applying a second coat of primer, wet sand the bottom again. Spot prime and re-sand any places where you break through to the gelcoat after the second coat of primer.

Now spend some time going over every square inch of the bottom. The most effective way to do this is at night, using a handheld spotlight with the beam directed almost parallel to the hull surface. Dings and brush marks will stand out like a sore thumb, showing you areas that need a little more work. Since the quality of the bottom depends very much on the attention you give it at this stage, take your time. They may laugh at you now, but we know who gets the last laugh.

The epoxy surface should now have a dull sheen. Any high gloss patches haven’t been adequately sanded. Admittedly, you walk a fine line between having a smooth, fast surface and one that is too slick to hold bottom paint.

Painting Proper application of bottom paint varies with the type of paint used. As a rule, the preparation you have done is far more thorough than that recommended by the paint manufacturer, and you may undo your hard hours of labor if you blithely slap on a coat of paint.

If you’ve gone to the trouble to carefully prepare your hull, you’ll want to use at least a medium hard paint to get a final surface as good as the subsurface you’ve created. The bottom paint should be hard enough to allow wet sanding.

Because fouling characteristics vary so dramatically from place to place, the most practical bottom paint is the one that works best for boats in your area. That statement isn’t a copout, it’s a simple fact.

Although most paints have good general instructions on the can, it can be helpful to call the manufacturer for more details. Every paint manufacturer has a chemist or technician who can make recommendations for the application of bottom paint over a smooth, fresh, epoxy bottom. The paint chemist can also tell you what type of applicator will be most effective and give the smoothest job.

Like the epoxy primer, the bottom paint must be applied as smoothly as possible. As a rule, two coats of paint will yield a paint film thick enough for wet sanding, although the required film thickness for effective antifouling properties will vary from paint to paint.

Spray application of bottom paints is not a job for amateurs. Solvents such as xylene and toluene, used to thin some paints for spraying, and the organotin antifouling components of some bottom paints, are quite toxic. An amateur -or professional using inadequate protective clothing or lacking a respirator designed for toxic vapors is simply asking for trouble.

Application with brush or roller is far less dangerous (but not safe). Protective clothing, including long sleeves and gloves, should be worn at all times, and the use of a respirator -not a paper particle mask will offer further protection.

The same precaution goes for wet sanding the bottom paint to achieve the final smooth surface. Don’t get the bottom paint residue on your skin. Wear rubber gloves, long sleeves, and a respirator. The 3M #8709 Easy Spray Paint Respirator, which costs under $10, is an inexpensive, fairly comfortable respirator for use when toxic materials such as bottom paints are handled only occasionally.

Wet sanding bottom paint is little different from wet sanding epoxy primer, except that you may be able to use finer grits of paper. All you want to do is smooth down irregularities resulting from paint application, removing as little paint as possible. Once again, the rubber sanding block is the ideal tool.

By the time you get to the point of wet sanding the bottom paint, you’re probably pretty tired from the seeming ly endless tedium of bottom sanding. If thorough sanding of the entire bottom is more than you can bear, concentrate on the front half of the hull. Few boats maintain laminar water flow much past the keel.

Putting a good bottom on your boat is probably one of the most time-consuming jobs you will face as a boatowner. It is not something to go through if you plan on selling the boat next year.

However, a smooth bottom will pay big dividends whether you race, daysail or cruise. The advantage in racing is obvious. The smoothness of the bottom doesn’t affect your rating under any racing rule, but it has a dramatic effect on light air performance.

Good light air performance should be the concern of the cruiser, too. A boat that is sluggish in light air from a rough bottom will have to carry more fuel, since you’ll probably run the engine more in light air.

A smooth bottom will help you save hours on short passages, days on longer ones. A boat averaging 6.25 knots will complete a 625 mile trip in 100 hours. A boat that is a quarter knot slower -a conservative estimate of the difference in speed a smooth bottom can make in light air -will take more than four hours longer to make the same trip.

Over time, the effort you put into creating a smooth, well-sealed bottom will probably pay off in lower maintenance. Most peeling bottom paint is the result of poor surface preparation. If you go through the effort of putting a good bottom on, then thoroughly wet sand before applying more paint, you’ll have less paint buildup. Less paint buildup means less tendency for the paint to separate from the hull.

It may be psychologically difficult to put the time into the part of the boat that no one ever sees. It’s not like the instant gratification you get when someone admires your varnished mahogany or well-oiled teak. Nevertheless, you can take pride in knowing that a smooth bottom on a boat is one of the important jobs in making your boat better, and that you can do it yourself.

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Applying Bottom Paint

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Preparation required for a successful bottom job begins as soon as the hull clears the water.

Slime and growth are relatively easy to remove while the bottom is still wet, but let the stuff dry and you will have to chisel it off. Fortunately most boatyards pressure wash the bottom as soon as they haul the boat, and many will also knock off hard growth with a long-handled scraper. If bits of bottom paint flake off under the pressure of the washer nozzle, ask the yard worker to make another pass to remove as much loose paint as possible.

Remember that the adhesion of the new paint is only as good as that of the paint under it, so watch for signs of adhesion failure. Anywhere the old paint is flaking or lifting, worry exposed edges with a knife or small chisel. If the paint zips off, the bottom needs to be stripped.

You may also have to strip the bottom if you are changing the type of paint. For example, the aggressive solvents in vinyl paints lift other types of bottom paints, so if you are applying vinyl, any non-vinyl paint has to come off. And soft, sloughing paints are a poor undercoat for anything other than a fresh coat of the same.

Using a 2-inch hook scraper is the stripping method least injurious to both you and the planet, and this is often the easiest method as well. If you decide to use a chemical stripper, be sure it is one formulated for fiberglass; regular strippers will attack the gelcoat.

When the old paint is in good condition, in general you need only sand it, wash it, tape the waterline, and roll on a fresh coat or two. A grinder loaded with 80-grit disks on a foam pad can quickly prepare a hull for recoating, but it can also chew through the paint and into the laminate in an instant. If you lack experience with this powerful tool, 80-grit paper in a random orbit sander or a finishing sander will do the same job somewhat less quickly but with much less risk to the hull. Do not use a belt sander; it is designed to make things flat and that is the effect it will have on your hull.

Many boatyards now prohibit normal power sanding because of the dust it generates. The solution is a shop-vac and a random-orbit sander with a vacuum hose connection. If you don't want to buy a new sander, slip a length of plastic hose over the dust bag mount on your old palm sander and tape the other end into the shop-vac hose. Either rig will capture most of the toxic dust sanding generates, but not all of it. Be sure to wear a tight-fitting respirator — not a paper mask — while sanding. Also wear earplugs to shut out the din of the sander and the vac. You'll save your hearing and find the work much less tiring.

Even if you aren't stripping the bottom, it is good practice to sand away most of the previous application. This avoids a thick build-up that will eventually turn brittle and cause new paint to flake. A different color first coat provides a flag that signals when you have sanded enough.

Bare Fiberglass

A hull that has not been previously painted has mold release wax on the fiberglass that will interfere with paint adhesion unless you remove it. Clean the hull surface thoroughly with dewaxing solvent and plenty of clean rags before you sand; otherwise sanding drags the wax into the scratches and it will be that much harder to remove.

Sand the de-waxed hull lightly with 80-grit paper before applying the first coat of paint — the flag coat — which should be a different color from the top coat(s).

If the boatyard has a paint shaker, run it for at least 5 minutes to get the copper and the pigment evenly distributed throughout the paint. A drill-powered mixing paddle can also do a good job. In the absence of a either, pour half the paint into a mixing bucket so you can mix the remaining half vigorously without sloshing paint onto the ground. Keep dredging up the copper off the bottom of the can until the bottom feels clean to the touch of your paddle. Slowly stir in what you poured off until the paint is uniform in color and consistency. If the paint has been on the shelf awhile, getting it mixed thoroughly can take 10 or 15 minutes, but don't skimp; if the copper isn't evenly distributed, some areas of your hull won't be protected.

Roll the paint onto the hull using a short-nap roller cover. An extension for the handle will make painting the keel easier and keep you clear of the inevitable droplets the roller will sling. Wear sleeves and gloves to keep the paint off your skin.

Don't add any thinner to bottom paint unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise. (There are exceptions to every rule: thinner may be required if the day is hot and windy.)

Fill the basin of your paint tray with paint. Dip your roller, unload it on the tray slope, and roll it up and down on the hull, i.e. from waterline to keel. Work fast as many bottom paints dry quickly. Each time you refill the paint tray, first stir the paint in the can to keep the copper in suspension.

By the time you work all the way around the hull, many bottom paints will be dry enough to overcoat. Check the specifications on the paint you are using. A second coat lengthens the life of almost any bottom paint; copolymers benefit from 3 or 4 coats. No sanding or other prep is needed between coats. Save some paint for the areas under the stand or cradle pads.

Get the yard manager to move the stands as soon as the rest of the hull is dry (never move stands yourself!), and put rags or sheet plastic on the pads to protect your new paint. Prep the bare spots and apply the appropriate number of coats. Save a little paint to slap on the areas on the bottom of the keel you can't get to until the boat is lifted.

Prop and Shaft

You can paint the prop if you like, but copper-based paint won't stay on a bronze prop (nor bronze rudders and struts) for long. Prop paints are available, but demanding prep — up to four prime coats — discourages their use. A heavy coat of wax on the prop will keep it clean for a time.

Don't paint the shaft, and be sure you leave all anodes unpainted. If you are installing new anodes — a good idea — make certain you don't paint over their mounting locations. Good electrical contact is essential for anodes to do their job.

Let bottom paint dry at least overnight before you put masking tape on it to paint the bootstripe. Get hard bottom paint into the water within the time specified on the label.

For more information about painting, consult Sailboat Refinishing by Don Casey

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Contributor, BoatUS Magazine

Don Casey has been one of the most consulted experts on boat care and upgrades for 30 years, and is one of the BoatUS Magazine's panel of experts. He and his wife cruise aboard their 30-footer part of the year in the eastern Caribbean. His books include Don Casey's Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual, and the recently updated This Old Boat, the bible for do-it-yourself boaters.

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The Fastest Boat Bottom Paints: Antifouling for Speed

Whether you're racing your boat or cruising casually, everyone wants to sail faster. Is there a bottom paint that will make your boat sail faster? And is it right for you?

What are The Fastest Boat Bottom Paints? The fastest bottom paints are vinyl or Teflon based hard paints, which can be wet sanded and burnished to a smooth finish .

Maintaining a fast, racing finish with these paints requires more maintenance than a hard copolymer or a softer ablative paint. It is more maintenance, but it can make a big difference in boat speed.

On this page:

What slows you down, bottom preparation is everything, maintaining the finish, alternatives to hard and burnished, how much faster is it, what are your goals, racing vs. cruising.

In a word: friction. Friction causes turbulence and drag

Without requiring a degree in Computational Fluid Dynamics to explain it, a rough bottom is slower. More friction is slower - think about rubbing your hand across a carpeted floor versus a glass table top with a little oil spilled on it. Which is easier? Now imagine you're playing with a toy boat on either surface. If you push the boat, which one will be easier to push? Which might even keep sliding a little if you let it go?

Getting more into the science (still without the degree!), when fluids move over a surface there is a "boundary layer," the layer of fluid closest to the surface skin. When a hard surface moves through a liquid, molecules of the liquid get dragged along with it. This increases "skin friction" and causes drag. The faster something moves, the more drag.

If the flow of molecules in the boundary layer is "laminar", it is evenly spread and more calm. A "turbulent" boundary layer pulls more water with it and causes more friction and drag. A smooth bottom helps maintain laminar flow and reduce turbulence and drag as the boat speeds up.

These forces can be considerable if a boat bottom is not a fair surface, and the effect is more pronounced at higher boat speeds.

Given the power provided from your sails is constant, a boat with less drag will move through the water faster.

Spraying a layer of VC Offshore or Baltoplate on your boat will not make it instantly faster. To get the full benefit of a hard, fast bottom paint job the surface bottom must be prepared with care.

• Old incompatible bottom paint must be stripped. You can't put a Teflon based paint over an ablative or copolymer paint. It won't stay on.
• The bottom should be "faired." The aim is to create a smooth, curved surface with no bumps, dips or ripples. This is labor intensive and requires expertise and a keen eye to fair a hull.
• The bottom should be sanded smooth after fairing and before painting. Even if an orange is round and fair, if you spray paint it you will not end up with a smooth surface. You must start with a smooth surface.
• For a fast finish, spraying gives an even, smoother coating and reduces the amount of sanding time. Rolling hard bottom paint makes little sense because of the increased work from the rough paint application.
• Sanding and wet sanding is a must. Sprayed paint will still feel rough to the touch. For a fast finish sanding and wet sanding with up to 400 grit sandpaper will get results.
• Burnishing is a step even farther than wet sanding, and can give a mirror finish to a well prepared bottom.

Hard bottom paints designed for racing are not as effective at preventing grown as softer ablative paints or copolymers. They don't hold as much active antifouling, and it doesn't leach out of the paint or get refreshed since the paint doesn't slough off. And wet sanding and burnishing both remove some surface active ingredients.

In high growth areas, a racing finish with require constant maintenance and cleaning. When I raced my last boat, I had a diver come every week to clean the bottom and we dove on the boat ourselves at major regattas. You won't get hard growth quickly, but you will get slime buildup in very little time which can slow you.

You may not get two seasons from a coat of racing paint. If you don't, you'll want to wet sand it before the start of the season to ensure everything is smooth and ready again. The good news is that a properly prepared bottom is easy to re-spray and sand back to a good finish compared to the first time you do it.

What if you don't dive, can't clean your boat regularly, or don't want to pay a diver? Maybe you just want to go faster but aren't a speed-mad racer looking for every 1/10th of a knot speed extra?

Dry sailing for smaller boats is very popular. Fair the bottom and leave it unpainted or put on an underwater epoxy paint. As long as you don't store the boat in the water for more than a couple of days during a regatta there shouldn't be any growth. Most dinghies are dry sailed. Many smaller boats kept at clubs or marinas with a crane have this option, though there may be a cost to haul and launch.

If you stay in the water, a good choice is a hard copolymer paint. These are often referred to as "self polishing," as they smooth themselves with use as the paint sloughs off. Many of these are quite hard and can be carefully sanded to a smooth finish. Since they’re softer, you don’t want to sand through the paint. With proper preparation before painting, a sprayed paint job, and a little sanding, your bottom can be almost as fast as the high maintenance race boats.

Even without the sanding, a good bottom preparation before painting can give you more speed on passages. These paints are popular with long distance cruisers and people who use their boats frequently. You'll lose a little edge if you're racing, but you won't put yourself at the back of the fleet with it.

"What are you getting for your money" is a common question when preparing a boat for racing. The faster bottom and the newest sails won't win races for you if your crew can't tack or gybe and you can't spot wind shifts. You can lose the entire advantage of that quarter knot speed increase with a blown tack or a missed shift.

From personal experience, replacing a rough, coarse, orange-peel looking bottom with a polished and burnished bottom made a big difference. Both in my boat speed, and my wallet. It was expensive to do and expensive to maintain. But the boat was faster, and we were racing competitive regional events. The difference was most noticeable at low speeds and in light air.

There is not a lot of empirical data about how much faster a burnished Teflon bottom is over a well prepared copolymer paint. So the answer is "yes, it's faster," but with your boat, your budget, and your application there’s no way to predict that you may be 5% or 10% or half a knot faster.

To the casual club racer or cruiser, is it worth the time and money to prepare and maintain the fastest of possible finishes? It may not be; that's a question that only you can answer.

The best choice for a fast bottom comes down to you, your boat, and how you will use it.

• Are you a racer? If yes, is it weeknight club racing, or are you racing at higher level regional events against serious racers?
• If you cruise, how much maintenance are you willing to do to keep every extra fraction of a knot of speed?
• Where do you sail? Some areas have more aggressive growth than others. A sailor in the Great Lakes may get away with a hard bottom paint with less work than a New England coastal racer or a cruiser in the Caribbean.
• What is your budget for bottom preparation and maintenance? Are you willing and able to do some yourself?
• What us the current condition of your bottom? How ready is it for a top quality refinishing?

You will find very few non-racers who take the time and effort to apply the fastest bottom paints. The cost/benefit/effort analysis doesn't show a reasonable payback for what you get.

Most sailors aren't taking their boats to world-class regatta venues, they're taking off for weekends and vacations and maybe doing the club series on Wednesday nights or the annual regatta. Most of those boats are not going through the expense and effort for a competitive racing finish.

On the other hand, if you're racing in a competitive one-design fleet at New York Yacht Club Race Week or the San Diego NOOD Regatta, you can bet almost every boat in your fleet will have a smooth, wet sanded finish.

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You may also like, do i need to antifoul (bottom paint) my boat - sometimes.

Any time you buy a new boat, you get a work list as long as your arm. Bottom paint is expensive, toxic, and can be difficult to apply. It's an easy task to want to …

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How to Paint a Boat Hull

• Written by Doityourself Staff on Dec 22, 2009 To ensure our content is always up-to-date with current information, best practices, and professional advice, articles are routinely reviewed by industry experts with years of hands-on experience. Reviewed by H.R. Helm on Jun 01, 2021

• 6-30 hours •
• Intermediate •

A poorly painted boat hull will easily strip away. If foreign materials in the sea don't get to it, simple water pressure will eventually destroy a poor paint job. Even worse, improper painting can actually result in not just discoloration of the hull, but actual weakening of the hull. Knowing how to paint a boat hull isn't just a great way to give the vessel a vibrant appearance, it can also extend the lifespan of your boat.

Painting a boat hull requires a lot of time and effort. Here are some helpful steps that will enable you to effectively paint your hull.

Step 1 - Protect Your Skin

Throughout the preparation and painting process, wear gloves to reduce the contact between your skin and the substances you'll be using. This not only is a neat way to limit messes, but also protects your skin from any irritants or allergens that may be in the materials.

Step 2 - Prepare

Even though you will be using specialized boat or marine paint for this job, you'll still need to prepare the hull's surface for it to stick properly. In this case, that means a layer of industrial solvent.

Dip a sponge into the industrial solvent and apply it to the boat hull surface. In addition to prepping the surface for paint, this step also removes any wax that may be present from your regular boat maintenance.

Step 3 - Sand

After applying the solvent, it’s time to clean the boat hull further by using an oscillating power sander. This device strips away previous traces of paint from your boat hull. Be thorough with your sanding, as painting on an improperly sanded boat hull will result in paint discoloration or removal.

Follow all manufacturer instructions when using the power sander. It's a dangerous heavy duty piece of machinery.

Step 4 - Repair

Before applying the paint, make any necessary repairs to the hull. Apply epoxy glue to any holes or abrasions and smooth it out carefully to prevent any epoxy lumps from forming on the hull. Lumps will make it harder for you to paint the boat hull.

Step 5 - Apply the Primer

Once the boat hull is fully repaired, it’s time to apply the primer by using a roller. Roll the primer over the boat hull as evenly as possible.

After priming, sand the boat hull for a second time. Apply another layer of primer after sanding. This back and forth of sanding and priming create a fortified foundation for your paint job.

Step 6 - Paint

Once you've created a strong base with your repeated sanding and priming, it's time to paint. Use a roller and paintbrush to color your boat hull with marine paint. Brush the hull carefully, especially on areas where bubbles form up. When the painting job is done, let your boat hull dry for several hours.

Step 7 - Finishing Touches

Apply thinner layers of paint in order to smooth out your newly painted boat hull. Continue applying paint until you’ve achieved a thoroughly smooth, even paint job.

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Boat paint and marine paint are not the same formulations as interior or exterior house paint that you can buy at any warehouse store. That’s because marine grade paint is oil-based, whereas the latter is latex-based. This means that boat paint will hold up better and wear longer when used on boat surfaces, especially those submerged in water. When your craft requires painting, give us a call. Wholesale Marine is a leading retailer of marine paint and only carries the top brands like Aquagard , Interlux , Tuff-Coat , Pettit , Moeller Marine , and more.

There are different types of boat paint for a wide range of marine applications. Antifouling boat bottom paint, marine primers, marine varnish, topside boat paint, and engine spray paints. Make sure, when you are selecting paint for your boat, that it is the right one and has been specifically formulated for the appropriate application. Using the incorrect marine-grade paint can lead to corrosion, oxidation, and other damage. If you are not sure which marine paint is right for your task, just ask our knowledgeable representatives.

Protect Your Boat With Marine Paint

For example, protecting the hull of your boat with the proper antifouling boat bottom paint can prevent damage and costly repairs. Antifouling paints come in hard and ablative options that help protect from various organisms attaching to your boat and causing hull damage.

Topside boat paints are for use above the waterline including the sides, hull, deck, and interior of your vessel, and provide a protective barrier between your boat and the elements. We offer a wide range of options for all applications.

When shopping for your marine-grade paints, make sure you have all the painting accessories you will need to get the job done. At Wholesale Marine we offer one-stop shopping and an unmatched selection of painting supplies that covers everything from brushes, rollers, tape, and more.

Plan to contact Wholesale Marine for all your boat painting needs. We not only have one of the largest online inventories of boat paint and supplies but expertise as well and gladly offer sound advice. Remember, if you are not sure which type of marine paint is right for your needs, just give us a call and consult with one of our representatives. You can contact us at 877-388-2628. Our boating experts are here to help Monday through Friday from 8:30 AM until 4:30 PM EST. You’ll save even more by signing up for our Captain’s Club Rewards Program and begin to accrue points for extra discounts the next time you shop at Wholesale Marine!

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The Best Paints For Boat Hull in 2024

Many boat owners are frustrated with how their aluminum, steel, or even wood boat exteriors keep running into problems over a short amount of time. I bet that they have not found out the right item to coat on these types of material.

What if I tell you that you can have a brand new attractive paint color on the topside surfaces, combining with a strong layer against multiple risks? Get to know the best paint for boat hull for optimal boat restoration in this article.

1. TotalBoat Wet Edge Marine Topside Paint

2. duralux m735-4 marine paint, 3. kop-coat pettit paint splash zone a-788, 4. totalboat outdrive af antifouling paint, 5. interlux y404kit/1 epoxy primekote, 6. totalboat inflatable boat bottom paint, who is this for, factors to consider when buying a paint for boat hull, advantages and disadvantages of using paint for boat hull, care and maintenance, frequently asked questions, best paint for boat hull reviews.

Should you ask me about the best overall marine paint for boat hulls currently available on the market, I will not hesitate to choose the TotalBoat Wet Edge Marine Topside Paint for providing this wide range of outstanding features.

Aside from 21 high-gloss paint color variations, there are also some flat finishes for your choice. You might be concerned about discoloring or fading over time, but its formula makes sure the paint will deliver superior adhesion.

Its high resistance is impressive to fight abrasions and UV damages. Being flexible and resilient helps this item endure ever-changing conditions with no cracking or peeling; plus, enables its compatibility with non-skin additives.

The Wet Edge paint is suitable for a variety of surfaces like wood, fiberglass, metal, etc. As long as you use the paint above the waterline, it will dry quickly regardless of your application method (rolling, brushing, tipping, or spraying).

You only need to apply from 2 to 3 thin paint coats on a surface to achieve long-lasting shine. The 1-part aluminum hull paint is easy to use and offers an uninterrupted flow with the incredible durability of a 2-part polyurethane.

That is why you can even paint the house with this marine-grade formula due to its powerful blockage against tough conditions. It also works well with other types of exteriors such as canoe, camper, golf cart, kayak, even an RV.

In my opinion, this paint coverage of 350 to 400 square feet per gallon is enough to fill a wide surface in one dip. There are versatile liquid capacities for you to select in different regions worldwide, including quarts, gallons, pints.

You should not miss out on this information about its applicable temperature from 50 to 90°F as it plays an important role in helping the paint dry up on time. Any uses outside of this range will result in its failure to set completely.

• 21 paint shades in an adhesive formula
• UV, abrasion-resistant for better endurance
• Allows different methods of application
• Easy to use with thin but durable coats
• Suitable for versatile types of exterior
• Requires the right temperature for drying

This boat hull paint manages to offer an amazing amount of protection that all boaters desire to equip their transportation. I would definitely recommend trying the durable all-in-one TotalBoat Wet Edge Topside Paint at least once.

DuraLux M735-4 Aquamarine Boat Paint is a premium boat hull protection paint with properties for commercial and pleasure boats, now developed to work with all types of marine maintenance applications on and offshore.

Remember that as long as the targeted surface is properly primed in the first place, this type of marine paint will provide an excellent level of adhesion to a variety of popular surfaces, including aluminum, fiberglass, metal, and wood.

The best news about this product is how it can endure repeated washing and does not discolor under the harbor gas effect. It also resists UV radiation, gasoline, oil, chemicals, as well as saltwater with no further surface rusting.

The base paint material is acrylic and it is the most important feature to help it achieve solid transparency and a high gloss sheen. Feel free to combine it with a roller, paint sprayer, or brush as desired for flexible applications.

In terms of after-paint drying, the liquid needs at least 240 minutes to reach the dry-to-touch condition without smudging all over the place. You should perform the next recoat after 24 hours to ensure the best performance.

In spite of having a relatively limited coverage area of 125 square feet per gallon compared to many other available painting products, I believe that you can still spread the paint evenly on topside marine and boat structures.

However, there were certain cases of the paint spilling out on arrival and led to a significant amount of content shortage. This is probably because of its unprotected can that could not hold up to external pressures during delivery.

• Works for on/offshore marine applications
• Can be used on a variety of surfaces
• Multiple resistance without discoloring
• High-gloss finish with solid transparency
• Does not take much time to dry up
• Flimsy container results in content spill

Other than the fragile container that requires a serious construction upgrade, DuraLux M735-4 Aquamarine Boat Paint can still provide a great level of exterior protection for your favorite boat that dries quickly without discoloring.

Have you ever wondered why the Pettit Paint Splash Zone A-788 is called “The duct tape of the marine world”? I will introduce its multi-purpose features to prove to you that this compound is the most versatile surface amendment.

Its formula contains 2 parts of epoxy patching mixed with an effective repair compound to provide excellent underwater damage repair. It is also flexible for above and below waterline use to fix buoys, docks, sea walls, boat hulls, etc.

You would certainly enjoy how the product performs multiple types of repairment with its putty-like formula: filling, sealing, patching, re-building on diverse surfaces such as fiberglass, steel, wood, aluminum, and concrete.

If you are worried about metal boat corrosion through frequent submergence in saltwater, it will produce a protective surface that is rock-hard. The good news is that the marine paint also prevents concrete and wood deterioration.

As boat owners obtain a newly painted solid layer, they will be able to either tape, drill, and even machine through this powerful surface. That is why this paint is widely known as an effective repairment for damaged boat exteriors.

Based on my experience, it appears that this item does slow down the leak inside your boat, but its effect is not the best possible. The water would not stop completely so I do not think that its sealing ability has a fine performance.

• High versatility for multiple purposes
• Effectively repairs diverse marine parts
• Enables amendment on different surfaces
• Eliminates metal, wood, concrete corrosion
• Helps coat a strong, protective layer
• Blocks water leakage but not the finest

Without a doubt, the Pettit Paint Splash Zone A-788 is one of the most excellent amendments you can get to fix boat damages. Besides the regular corrosion-proof for metal, it also prevents wood and concrete deterioration.

Looking for a marine-grade bottom paint that is antifouling for your propeller, outboard, outdrive, and boat hull? Try the Outdrive Antifouling Paint from the famous manufacturer TotalBoat and be amazed at its impressive abilities.

While many conventional antifouling paints containing cuprous oxide cause underwater metal components to corrode, you can rely on this copper-free formula with organic biocide for boatyard use under environmental limitations.

Thanks to this safe, natural ingredient, this antifouling product promises that no algae, barnacles, or slime growth can develop within its application. This protection is full-season use below the waterline in either salt or freshwater.

I appreciate how boat owners can use 3 different methods to coat the paint on their selected surface, including rolling, spraying, and brushing it. Its fast-drying feature at 90°F allows you to use the surface at least 2 hours later.

There is a wide range of surfaces for you to apply this outdrive product on, such as properly primed iron, aluminum, steel, and even underwater metal. Its smooth eggshell finish is polishing and durable enough for long-term use.

You can get a 1-quart container of black paint for one purchase. The paint coverage is approximately 125 square feet per quart, which is an average rate with 1.5 mils of dry film thickness. I bet that the final results would be great.

Unfortunately, I encountered a huge blob of solids at the bottom of this can from the beginning and spent nearly an hour trying to break it up. Therefore, I guess its content should be completely mixed (broken up) to be effective.

• Offers an antifouling coat for boat hulls
• Copper-free formula with organic biocide
• Full-season protection from slime, algae
• Dries up quickly after at least 2 hours
• Provides a sleek finish on multiple surfaces
• The bottom solids have to be broken up

It is true that having a protective coating from UV rays and material corrosion for your boat is necessary, but sealing it against algae and slime is equally crucial with TotalBoat Outdrive Antifouling Paint and its quick-drying feature.

Apart from optimal topside boat paints in this article, I would like to present you with an effective priming product for better surface preparation as well – the multi-purpose Interlux Y404KIT/1 Epoxy Primekote in a bright white shade.

Its main formula contains epoxy to be applied to form a solid base for 2-part finishes, especially for topside paint systems containing polyurethane from the same brand. Moreover, this paint also performs well for single-part enamels.

When you apply this primer over clear epoxies, it can eliminate the annoying adverse effect of amine blush. The main reason why I always choose the product for bilge and locker areas is because of its bright white paint finish.

From my perspective, adding a priming layer is a crucial part of the system because it is able to resurface crazed and cracked gel coats before you apply a topside paint. The item helps you prepare this surface properly in advance.

What I enjoy the most about priming this product on my boat exterior is how it sands at ease with a great level of adhesion to clear epoxy, together with a large number of surfaces including fiberglass, steel, Gelcoat, and wood, etc.

The best thing is the primer only takes about 1 to 3 hours for complete drying to touch. It is possible for you to recoat the applied surface at least 8 hours later in 73 F, and the most effective overcoat timing ranges from 6 to 12 hours.

If you choose to prime any of the mentioned surfaces above the waterline, I would recommend 1 to 2 coats. However, underwater use will require more sustainability so opt for 6 coats for it to stick longer under such conditions.

Lastly, there are different coverage dimensions available with 450 square feet per gallon for brush and 375 for spraying this paint. It will be sold in a kit with a capacity of either a quart or a gallon to perform for diverse painting projects.

I must say that I have not discovered any serious problems related to how the 2-part primer works. It fills imperfections quite brilliantly on many surface types, sands good then stick onto the targeted layer better than expected.

• Delivers a solid base for 2-part finishes
• Reduces amine blush on clear epoxies
• Can resurface a damaged gel coat
• Versatile capacities for different projects
• No defections have been found so far

Interlux Y404KIT/1 Epoxy Primekote provides an incredibly solid base for any of your marine painting projects. Kick off with this effective primer prior to your topside paint on multiple surfaces, and you will receive a great adhesion level.

The last sailboat hull paint on this list is the only product with a water base – TotalBoat Inflatable Boat Bottom Paint. It provides an ablative antifouling layer for inflatable boats of diverse materials, such as PVC, rubber, and Hypalon.

With its smooth polishing finish that is extremely durable regardless of the surrounding conditions and an attractive, neutral gray shade, I believe this paint will look stunning on all mentioned materials of an inflatable marine boat.

From my perspective, using water-based paint for boat hull has its very own benefits. The product does not contain any harmful fumes or solvents and is incredibly easy to wash away with soap in case of undesirable applications.

Although this bottom paint contains 25% copper in the formula, your inflatable marine transportation will attain a strong repellent from algae and barnacle growth in both salt and fresh water, using the item to coat a protective layer.

Moreover, you will notice how the copper ingredient wears away at a controlled rate over time. This feature is beneficial to maintain the antifouling protection coating for any selected surface of every kind all season long.

The flexible coating is durable enough for you to deflate or roll the boat up without cracking or lifting from this applied surface. You can compare it with other similar products and still find the item a brilliant invention for inflatables.

There is no specific restriction for its normal launch time but you should better wait for 6 to 10 hours, depending on the temperature conditions. It will take around 3 hours for the inflatable bottom paint to fully dry to touch at 70° F.

Despite being stored in a sturdy container, I am deeply disappointed how the paint came really clumsy. Furthermore, there is a high chance that this content may dry out from sitting on the shelf for too long, costing more time to remix it.

• Durable, smooth finish for inflatable boats
• Easy-to-wash safe water-based formula
• 25% copper blocks algae and barnacles
• Does not crack when rolling up the boat
• No specific restrictions for the launch time
• Possess a great risk of drying out on-shelf

I am confident that you will never regret trying out this USA-made water-based paint for inflatable bottom coverage. TotalBoat Inflatable Boat Bottom Paint is an awesome product that includes what it takes to shield your boat effectively.

As an effective product for topside boat coating regardless of the surface materials, it is most suitable for boat owners who wish to equip their marine transportation with better exterior protection or old damaged paint coverage

With so many products available on the market, which criteria should you rely on when buying this type of paint for aluminum boats? Here are important features that you should not miss out on to ensure making the best decision.

Applicable Areas

The first and foremost criteria that you should account for when buying paint for topside boat is its application areas. Other than boat hulls, it is possible for you to use this type of paint on buoys, docks, sea walls, etc.

Also, there is a wide range of surfaces that are compatible with the product such as metal, wood, fiberglass , aluminum , iron, and steel. They should be properly primed in advance with a fine primer for increased paint adhesion.

A few products can only be applied for surfaces above the waterline that undergo water submergence shortly, while other choices are able to work well either in brackish, fresh, or saltwater without losing the main effectiveness.

Quality Formula

Undoubtedly, the formula determines how well the boat hull paint performs. It is your choice to either choose organic ingredients or one with copper in the formula since each of them comes with a different benefit.

Its formula base also varies depending on your purpose of use. Many products with acrylic provide enhanced adhesion and saturation, while a water base does not contain solvents or fumes and is much easier to wash away.

With a quality topside boat paint formula, I can assure you that you will be amazed by its function to eliminate peeling, cracking, discoloring and stopping certain materials (metal, wood, aluminum, etc.) from immature deterioration.

Moreover, this formula will limit the strong growth of barnacles, algae, and slime on the applied surface. It also brings a powerful resistance to UV rays, saltwater, chemicals, rusting, and other thick liquids such as oil and gasoline.

Diverse Capacities

I highly appreciate the diversity when it comes to the container capacities of this marine boat paint. For one single model, you can have different capacity choices since it will be available in gallon, pint, quart.

The marine-grade paint will usually be contained inside a thick can for optimal storage regardless of the surrounding conditions. You just need to stir the content well, apply a thin layer of paint on a surface and spread it evenly.

Besides, remember that different coats are required for different use: 1 – 2 coats for using above the waterline, 5 – 6 coats to add more durability if your boat stays afloat often. Its coverage ranges up to 450 square feet per gallon.

Advantages:

• Provides a protective marine-grade coating
• Adaptable to a variety of different surfaces
• Suitable for diverse boat area applications
• Offers a wide range of saturated colors
• Creates a smooth, durable polishing surface
• Enables resistance against versatile factors

Disadvantages:

• May take too long to dry up completely
• Stiff content becomes frozen with ease
• Not enough thickness produced in use
• Stored inside a flimsy, unsealed container
• Requires priming the surface beforehand

Based on my experience, the most important thing when it comes to taking care of a marine paint container is to store it at normal room temperature. Stir the content sometimes to make sure it does not freeze in a cold season.

Out of all available choices, opt for a sealed and sturdy container because a flimsy one is likely to result in distortion and internal content spillage. Follow these rules of thumb and I believe that you will do perfectly fine with the paint.

How Often Should you Paint the Boat Hull?

As new users may wonder how often they need to repaint boat hull, it is ideal to apply this bottom paint once every year, though some products can last up to 2 years while still remaining effective to safely protect such a marine part.

Keep in mind that if your boat stays in the water or is being used on a regular basis, bring it to a professional for precise annual checkup. This routine will help you determine if the marine boat needs a new bottom paint application .

How to Spray Paint the Boat Hull?

There are many popular methods that you can use for painting a boat hull, including brushing, tipping, rolling, and spraying. Among these choices, my preference will go to using a sprayer to attain the most appealing results.

Some products will require thinning with xylene in advance to enhance the overall adhesion for a better finish. Remember that the thinning percentage varies by the sprayer and surrounding conditions, usually from 15 to 20%.

You should spread the paint evenly on the targeted surface to avoid applying it too thickly, or else the finish will not be able to dry properly. With a prepared surface in hand, I am certain that your spraying work will end up much better.

Using an effective marine hull paint will make sure you have a proper boat protection against harmful external impacts in the long run. There are multiple types of risks out there in the water waiting to damage your transportation.

What is your opinion on this article reviewing the best paint for boat hull on the current market? If you have not yet decided which product suits you the most, follow my buying guide for other good choices. Thank you for reading.

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H-King Marine (RTR) Aquaholic V3 Deep Vee Brushless Racing Boat 730mm (Orange)

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• Product Description
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The original Aquaholic was a real show stopper with its eye-watering performance and great looks, then came the V2 version with an even more powerful brushless system and redesigned superstructure. Now we have the V3 that sports a new bright orange color scheme, an offset rudder for better turning performance, a relocated power system for better weight distribution, and a clear plastic recovery fin that bolts to the top of the rudder to provide steering control if the boat accidentally gets flipped over.

Retained from the V2 version is the water-cooled 2815 outrunner brushless motor coupled with a high-end water-cooled 60amp ESC that gives you blistering speeds in excess of 60km/hr (37mph) across your favorite lake, pond, or waterway. The Aquaholic V3 has also retained the well-proven deep-vee hull, which gives it incredible speed and stability in a straight line and enables it to dig in and turn on a dime.

This Ready-to-Run (RTR) version is complete with a HobbyKing GT2E AFHDS 2A 2.4ghz 2 channel radio system with a waterproof receiver and a powerful 37g steering servo. The position of the brushless motor on the V3 has been moved rearwards to alter the center of gravity to further improve the handling. This means the drive from the motor to the highly efficient 3-blade metal propeller via the strong 4mm flexible direct drive system is shorter, making it stronger and even more efficient. The aluminum alloy shaft support at the propeller end of the flexible drive system holds the shaft parallel to the hull for optimum thrust and also provides support for the offset rudder.

Features: • V3 sports a new eye-catching Orange color scheme, and offset rudder for improved turning performance • Powerful brushless water-cooled motor system with 60amp water-cooled ESC • Blisteringly fast speeds in excess of 60km/hr (37mph) • Supplied with Hobbyking GT2E 2.4GHz digital proportional radio system and powerful rudder servo • Deep Vee hull for excellent stability and maneuvering • Highly efficient surface piercing metal 3-blade propeller • Strong 4mm flexible drive shaft with rear aluminum alloy support • Includes a clear recovery fin for bolting to the rudder to provide steering control if capsized

Specs: Type: H-King (RTR) Marine Aquaholic V3 Brushless Deep Vee Racing Boat Length: 730mm (28.7in) Beam: 180mm (7.09in) Hull/Superstructure Material: Strong durable ABS Speed: 60+km/hr Motor: Water-cooled 2815 brushless outrunner Speed Controller: 60amp brushless w/BEC Drive: 4mm direct drive flexible shaft Radio System: Hobbyking GT2E AFHDS 2A 2.4ghz 2 Channel Radio System w/ waterproof Receiver Rudder Servo: 37g high-power Color: Orange

Required: 2 x 7.4V (2S) 4000mAh 30C or greater LiPo battery packs 1 x Suitable LiPo battery charger 4 x "AA" batteries for the transmitter

Please note: A copy of the instruction manual can be found under the "Manual/Files" tab.

Important: This manual must be read before operating the Aquaholic, there are some very important checks to do before use.

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Essential RC | Verified Buyer

Serious fun on the water

Apr 12, 2024

Take everything out of the box and it will then take you less than 5 minutes to attach the rudder, prop and transparent recovery fin. Drop in 2 charged 2S4000 packs, 4 x AA batteries into the included transmitter and you are ready to go. We started by ensuring the Aquaholic tracks straight and took the steering rates down to about half way on the dial. Full power and the boat takes no time to get on step. It is plenty quick and ideal for our local boating pond. We got 15-20 minutes out of one set of batteries and charged up to go again. Everyone wanted to have a go! Watch our 1st vid and we'll be back soon racing with our 2nd Aquaholic and other boats in the near future on Essential RC (Find us on Facebook and YouTube) REVIEW HERE: https://youtu.be/16KrUPqm274

Mike | Verified Buyer

This boat is Amazing

This boat is so fast I took it out yesterday after work to our local bay and this thing was tearing up the water. Definitely worth dollar.

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