sailboat in winter

We live aboard a boat during the winter, with snow, ice and no running water.

If you're confused about how we live on a boat through a proper snowy winter, you're not the only one. It's the single-most asked question I get as a liveaboard, with some variations on the theme, including how we heat the boat (space heaters), whether we're at risk of floating away when it storms (no), and if we have to pee or shower outside (oh hell no, we're not heathens.) 

Still, when you're land-bound, it's hard to imagine the logistics of wintering aboard. When we first started thinking about buying a boat, I picked up The Essentials of Living Aboard A Boat  by Mark Nicholas. From our sunny front Porch in L.A., I read about the perils of winter boat living -- the damp, the mold, how all his suits were wrinkled on one side from condensation in the closet. How you had to build a bubble around your boat and fill your engine with anti-freeze so it wouldn't crack.

I have a very specific memory of setting the book down, looking at Jon and saying out loud, "let's never move to the East Coast." We were in strong agreement on that.

Months later, in a card Jon gave to me just a few moments before he proposed to me on a beach in front of our boat, he wrote: "I love our life, let's never live in the snow." 

Yet here we are. And to be honest, it's not as bad as I thought it would be. Well, the snow is. But it's been a few chilly months now and I still love #boatlife.

So, let me paint a picture of what life is like aboard in (this relatively mild) winter. Let me know if you think I'm as crazy as I once thought Mark Nicholas was. 

Where do boats... erm... live? 

First, let's clarify something a lot of non-boat people have misconceptions about. Boats can be anchored, moored or tied to a dock. Unless you're cruising, it's a good chance that if you're living aboard, you're at a dock, in a marina. We are. We don't dinghy into shore every day. We won't get hit by a ferry. We have electricity. 

Okay, now that that's out of the way. If you are at a dock, in a marina, there are two ways to store a boat in a marina in winter -- "on the hard", which means out of the water and in the dockyard, propped up by stilts, or by "wet storage", which means keeping the boat in the water the whole winter.

Most liveaboards keep their boats in the water, including us. When you're on the hard, it's more difficult to access electricity, any water you use dumps directly to the blacktop below you and you have to climb a ladder about 10 feet in and out of your home. So it's definitely preferable to stay in the water. 

What about ice? 

Our boat is protected by bubblers, little underwater fountains that circulate the water to prevent ice from forming against the hull. That's how we don't get stuck in ice all winter. 

Also, water is shut down on the docks because the pipes would otherwise freeze. So we have to use long hoses from pumps on land to fill our tanks. Which is, yes, a total pain. When people forget to empty the water out of the hoses, the water freezes, and you can be stuck without water until the sun warms things up again, or if you're in a hurry, you'll need to resort to some fairly undignified activities to defrost your hoses. 

On our boat, we have sinks that operate by foot-pump and no hot water heater. So the fresh water we do use is chil-ly. Unsurprisingly those arctic blasts while washing hands or our faces definitely helps with our water conservation of the 30 or so gallons we have aboard at a time. Brrr. 

How do you heat a boat?

Our boat has been up to Alaska and back down to the tip of Mexico, so it's really well insulated. But it no longer has a built-in heat source. So this winter, we have three electric heaters that we're loving -- a mini fireplace that I've written about before , a baby radiator-style heater that's safer to leave on during the day for our dog, and a West Marine heater that we can leave on when we're on trips that will automatically turn on if the boat's internal temperature drops below freezing. They're all small and easily stowed. We rotate them so that no one heater runs for more than a few hours at a time, to prevent risk of overheating. But since our boat isn't going anywhere this winter, we haven't invested in any kind of heating that would be usable offshore. 

We also have an electric blanket that we're obsessed with that takes the edge off getting into chilly sheets in the v-berth, a.k.a. our boat bedroom. 

Our first anniversary gift from my parents: a fireplace for our boat so we don't freeze to death. #thisiswhatacceptancelookslike #weloveit A video posted by Victoria Fine (@vfine) on Oct 6, 2015 at 6:34pm PDT

Why does the boat look like a giant bubble?

The best thing we did this winter was shrink-wrap the boat. Having some version of boat wrapping is a very good idea for cold weather boat lovers, whether your boat is in the water or not. Wrapping it protects the boat from moisture damage and keeps it warmer inside. 

Not everyone wraps their boats, but it can expose boats, especially unattended ones, to more dangers. For example, a friend of a friend left their boat for the season, unwrapped. The weight of the snow caused a leak that then froze, melted and refroze, ruining ceiling and floor inside. 

If your boat is out of water, the wrapping is usually white and opaque, and looks a little marshmallow-like. Some people buy specially fitted canvas covers that they can use year after year. If you're living aboard, the plastic is clear, and looks like this:

Longterm liveaboards often forego shrinkwrapping and instead invest in nicer cockpit enclosures that they can use for storage or extra living space in the dead of winter. That does mean, though, that you end up having to shovel your deck after a big snowstorm. All due respect to the cash saved, I say a thousand nopes to that.

And on a nice sunny day, the deck of our boat heats up like a greenhouse, allowing us to sit barefoot and in t-shirts "outside" while it's freezing just on the other side of the zipper. 

Are we always warm and dry?

Yes and no. For one, it's definitely not like camping. But sometimes, after a long day at work, I find my pajamas or sweater are a little... damp. 

The Scallywag has kept us cozy, but much like a house with poor insulation, the temperature difference between the inside and outside on boats can cause condensation to form. Which means we have to have great circulation in the boat and plenty of dry heat to prevent our stuff from getting damp or growing mold. That's as gross as it sounds. That's also why even people who have boats with showers don't shower in the winter -- you just go through too much water and create too much moisture to make it worth it. 

We haven't had too much of a problem yet with this, because almost all the "closed" spaces on our boat have natural circulation in some way. The backs of our settees, for example, are woven out of rattan, which means air can pass through easily.

We did have a close call with our foam mattress, which tends to get wet on the bottom during particularly cold nights. We've fixed that with a layer of Hypervent , which looks like a rug made out of stiff dish-scrubbing plastic, and allows air to circulate between two layers (like wood and a mattress) to prevent condensation. Basically, the more we've learned about how to prevent condensation from forming, the dryer we've been. The wrapping seriously helps with this too, as it essentially creates a layer of insulation with the air pocket between the boat and the plastic covering. 

Don't people, like, slip and fall off the dock and die?

For some reason this is on a lot of people's minds, including my mother's (hi mom!) who yells "Natalie Wood!" at regular intervals when I mention walking our dog at night or hanging out on the boat alone. But so far it's been a nonissue. 

We haven't had much snow this winter, so the docks haven't been icy at all.  Because I'm neurotic, I keep a whistle in my coat, just in case. But so far, it hasn't even come close to being a problem for us, and I imagine you'd have to be pretty tired/drunk/distracted to fall in. However, our marina is religious about keeping ice off the docks, whereas less well-maintained marinas might be dicier, similar to having a bad landlord who doesn't salt your sidewalk. 

What sucks the most about living this way?

There are fewer things of note than you might imagine. And there's a different low for everyone when it comes to wintering aboard.

One woman I talked to mentioned that she misses the extra space of the cockpit -- because when it isn't a beautiful day out you lose what's essentially an extra room in your home. 

For me, it's that I have to layer on a coat and boots, then walk through a cold wind or snow to have a hot morning shower. And that our water on the boat, which isn't heated, is icy when I wash my hands or dishes.

When I asked Jon, he said he still hasn't gotten over taco-ing the foam mattress in the narrowest part of the boat so that we could layer hypervent under it.

And now that I think about it, I don't think I've gotten over it either. Or rather, gotten over getting stuck under it. #boatlife.

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Stay Toasty Warm! The Beginner’s Guide to Living on a Boat in Winter

"Boats and winter ... go together like salt and pepper," said few people ever . For most boaters, winter means the end of boating season . Time to put the boat into storage and go back to real life activities on dry land. 

For some boaters, though, pulling out hats and mittens doesn't necessarily mean putting away dock lines , anchors and life jackets. Winter's still a perfectly viable season for boating . Even more living on a boat in winter is a conscious decision some live aboards make.

Advantages of Living on a Boat in Winter

The community of boaters.

Ever notice when times are tough, people seem to gather and build a wonderful community?  The Association for Psychological Science actually tells us it's a common condition: "Researchers found that shared pain not only increases a sense of solidarity, it can also boost actual group cooperation."

Well, living on a boat in winter isn't always a piece of cake. Some hardships that come with it help to foster a close-knit community, especially when living on a boat in a marina . You meet many like-minded boaters and marina liveaboards.

Waterfront views at a fraction of the cost

From oceans, lakes and rivers, people pay big bucks for waterfront views. Homes with windows that overlook the water can be expensive. Living on a boat all year round (even during the winter) however, offers spectacular views at a much more affordable price. Winter water views are stunning!

Without the humidity of summer, it's easier to see longer distances. If you're on a body of water that freezes, the ice formations can be majestic. Imagine sipping your morning cup of coffee with the reflection of snow-covered trees in crystal-clear waters. There's something quite special about it.

Appreciation for little things

As I mentioned earlier, living on a boat in winter is not a piece of cake, nor is it for everyone. One disadvantage is that boats present smaller living quarters than an average house. Having less, and possibly even downsizing, helps you appreciate what you do have.

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Special Equipment and Gear for Living on a Boat in Winter

If you like the idea of living on a boat in winter, good for you! Now that we've talked about amazing advantages, it's important to go over what type of equipment you'll need for winter boat living. Spoiler alert: It's a little different than what's required for the typical summer boating season.

Many boats pulled from the water for winter are shrink wrapped . This is an excellent option for an extra protective layer. When living aboard a boat in winter, using shrink wrap helps protect the boat's hull , deck and upholstery from the elements while also keeping the interior cabins nice and toasty.

Unless you plan to hibernate like a bear all winter, liveaboards need to take additional steps. To make the boat liveable with shrinkwrap, you'll need to create a frame and a doorway.

Here are some step by step directions . When you're ready to get wrapping and need supplies, here are some great shrinkwrap options: Pro-Tect Plastics (check price on Amazon) TRM Manufacturing 620C Plastic Sheeting (check price on Amazon)

For those of us used to living on land during winter, the concept of insulation as cold weather preparation is probably not too foreign. Just as our home's insulation keeps cold air out and warm air in, insulating a boat's hull  does the same. 

The insulation will also  reduce condensation  inside the boat. Nobody wants to sleep in a damp wet berth, especially during wintertime! This can also cause mold and mildew . For this issue, a dehumidifier may be an option. 

De-icing device

If you'll be a liveaboard boater far enough north for the waters to freeze, you'll need a de-icing system. A de-icing device keeps water from freezing around your vessel.

Known as bubblers or Ice Eaters , these devices agitate the water to keep it moving and pull up warmer water from the bottom, which helps melt and prevent ice from forming.

Some marinas provide bubblers, so check if this service is provided or if you'll need to handle it on your own. If your marina does not have this option, I highly recommend the Kasco Marine De-Icer, which clears an approximate 50-foot diameter around your boat.

Electric heaters

If you're not as lucky to, say, live on a narrowboat with its own stove , you'll need to find warmth in other ways. One way to stay warm and toasty inside  in below-freezing temperatures is to use a portable electric heater.

Here are my recommendations:

The  Caframo Limited True North Heater (check price on Amazon)  takes up minimal space but still provides a lot of heat. It's perfect for boat living where every inch counts!

The  Caframo Pali Engine Compartment Heater (check price on Amazon)  is also an excellent option. It can also prevent any engine damage from cold winter temperatures.

Carbon monoxide detectors

Carbon monoxide's a dangerous concern, especially when using electric and portable heaters. Carbon monoxide is a colorless and odorless gas. The effects of inhaling it result in sickness or even death.

When using any type of combustion heating, it's important to have a carbon monoxide detector installed in the boat's cabin. It should be a part of your boat's  essential safety equipment .

Each year, hundreds of deaths are caused by using broken heating devices or improperly-used heaters. This Safe T Alert (check price on Amazon)  makes a good carbon monoxide detector choice for any boat.

Appropriate winter clothing

There's no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes! A key element to ensuring you survive and thrive while living on a boat in winter is by dressing appropriately.

Owning a decent collection of foul-weather gear's a great place to start to stay dry and blocked from the wind. In addition, you'll also need to add insulating layers underneath.

Wool and fleece, as well as waterproof boots, will make winters aboard much more comfortable, especially if you need to venture out from the docks to take a warm shower at the marina.

Don't forget your feet! Wool socks, such as these from  SmartWool (check price on Amazon) will keep your toesies warm. Keep in mind to find moisture-wicking socks once you're onboard and toasty, you'll avoid sweat build-up.

Where to Live on a Boat in Winter

Say you decide to give living on a boat in winter a try. You've got all of the gear, but now it's time to figure out where to live. Not all marinas allow liveaboards , so that's the first check when searching for a place to dock your boat this winter.

Next, when you do locate a liveaboard marina, ask the following questions:

• What is the slip rate per month?
• What electricity will be available and how much will it cost?
• What kind of fresh water will be available?
• Does the marina offer any showers or laundry?
• Does the marina offer any bubbler or de-icing?

Here are some specific liveaboard marina suggestions from the SailNet online sailing community :

• DiMillo's Marina in Portland, Maine
• Bremerton Marina in Port of Bremerton, Washington
• Baltimore Marine Center in Baltimore, Maryland
• Glen Island Yacht Club in New Rochelle, New York

Is Living on a Boat in Winter Right for You?

Whether you choose to live on a boat in winter is entirely up to you! Solo boaters, couples and families all live on boats year-round and make it work.

If the water beckons you year-round, then give it a try! So, maybe boats and winter do go together ... perhaps like peanut butter and chocolate, though?

And don't fret if winter boating just isn't your style. Your boat's still waiting and will be glad to see you come spring.

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Sailboat Winter Covers: What to Look For

The post-pandemic rush to the sea has brought a whole new group of readers into the Practical Sailor family, so although many of you are already solved your winter cover cunundrum and may remember this post from years past, I felt it was a good time to help those new readers who are facing their first winter on the hard.

The onset of winter in the northern hemisphere brings with it that age-old problem: How best to protect the boat from snow and ice? Already boats on Lake Superior are buttoned up, and sailors as far south as the Chesapeake have already settled in for winter. While many powerboats choose shrink-wrapping over a more permanent solution, sailboats-with their masts stepped or unstepped-are perfectly suited for reusable custom, or semi-custom covers.

The topic of winter covers is worthy of a larger article all it’s own. A few years ago, seeking a snapshot view of the custom-cover options, we talked to Jim Welinski, co-owner of the family-run Shipshape Canvas shop ( www.shipshapecanvas.com ) in Duluth, Minn., where stored boats face some of the country’s harshest winters.

Most custom covers today are frameless, making them easier to stow and install than the excellent DIY frame-cover described on our website . In either case, a reusable cover will save money in the long haul. A robust, frameless winter cover for a Catalina 30 costs about $2,000 and can last eight to 15 years (with a re-stitching after about eight years), depending on how you treat it. Lighter-weight covers for less-harsh climates sell for just under $1,500 and can last about eight years. A single-season shrinkwrap job will cost $850. You do the math.

For cold-weather covers in dark northern climates, Welinski likes Top Gun, an acrylic-coated polyester that is tough, low-stretch, mildew-resistant, and abrasion resistant, just what is needed to stand up to fierce wind and cold. The material has two cons: It has a tough industrial finish, so a softer material is used to prevent chafe where the cover meets the hull, and it is not breathable, so good vents are essential.

For sunny climates with milder winters, Welinski recommends the UV-stable synthetic blend Weathermax, a breathable fabric that helps prevent mildew and condensation, but is not as strong and abrasion-resistant as Top Gun. Coated acrylics like Sunbrella are another option. Although not as tough or abrasion-resistant as Weathermax (see PS sailcover test , December 2011), Sunbrella’s 10-year warranty (pro-rated) against UV damage tops Weathermaxs five years.

Welinski also recommends using the UV-resistant thread Tenera in sunny places. Some canvas makers charge extra for Tenera, which carries a lifetime warranty, but others like Sailorstailor ( www.sailorstailor.com ) use it in all their products. Tenera’s downside, Welinski said, is that it can allow water to seep through needle holes when sewn into Top Gun, making it less desirable in this application.

For maximum lifespan, the devil is in the details. (Welinski abhors metal grommets, notorious points of chafe.) We recommend using a reputable local canvas maker that will measure your boat and help you fit the cover properly. All it takes is one fierce winter storm to shred a poorly fitted cover. Proper rope tension is critical.

If no local option exists, look for a company that has already fitted your model boat or has a template on file. Insist the company make adjustments for free within the first year. A high-quality cover should carry a four to five-year warranty for workmanship on top of the warranty for materials.

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On watch: this 60-year-old hinckley pilot 35 is also a working girl, 11 comments.

That’s really nice post. I appreciate your skills, Thanks for sharing.

It’s great that you talked about sailboat’s winter covers and which one adapts to your weather. My dad’s thinking about getting a boat. He’s always wanted one, but since we live in a place where the temperature during the winter goes crazy, he’s worried about how to keep it well covered. That’s why I think this article is going to help him be prepared for it. Thanks for the information on how for cold weather, it’s important to find a cover to stand up to the fierce wind and coldness.

The PO of my Bristol 35.5 purchased a frame and cover from Fairclough in CT in around 2000. I bought the boat in 2013, and by 2018 the cover needed to be replaced. I called Fairclough, they not only had the measurements, they still had the original purchase order! They quoted me around $1,600 for new canvas, since the frame is still fine.

Darrell, a very timely article with the link to the PS sailcover test of 2011 just as informative. I bought a two-piece canvas tarp from that “reputable local canvas maker” (he is) in 2007 that weathered 14 seasons with only minor rips and tears until this past winter when the aft piece tore laterally from side to side. I went cheap on the frames, making my own wooden supports, very amateurish but adequate. From what you say, I seem to have gotten a goodly number of seasons for the $1200 I paid back then. The tarp is currently in for repairs. Fingers crossed that it will cover my 27-ft, mast-up sloop for a few more years here under the heavy falls of snow off southern Georgian Bay.

My boat partner and I invested in a Fairclough custom cover (mast up) in 2008 for our 89’ Sabre 34 and although we’ve had several restitchings done through the years, I feel we made the right decision both economically and environmentally. Suggestions: Wrap foam pipe insulators around any and all possible chafing points using 3M Scotch #893 filament tape. Having a zippered door to use off season is a big plus as well as the vents for circulation.

Rarely seen now are waxed cotton canvas covers. I worked for decades at a yacht club in Toronto and there were some covers that were over 30 years old. They were heavy but ridiculously durable. The only thing that seemed to kill them was poor storage. If left lying on a cradle all summer they would rot but if stored dry indoors were fine.

We have a 2001 Catalina 42 which came with Top Flight cover. We replaced the cover with a new one from Top Flight, and had additions for storing with the mast up. We modified the rear to accommodate our new Tower in a Box, which required four new zippers and flaps to wrap around the tower. So 17 seasons from the first cover, and the new one going on three. Beats having to buy plastic shrink wrap every year, and filling up our waste dumps with all that plastic, and at less expense. And Top Flight is very responsive when you need parts (new conduit or brackets) or to modify the existing cover for new things.

Here on Lake Erie we reuse shrink wrap I get 8yrs of use out of it Mast down with framework on a 42′ sailboat with 13.5′ beam. Some of powerboats are on 17 years of the same wrap a little tape goes along way.

I built a cover for my 43′ sloop using different color scrap strips of Sunbrella fabric. At the boatyard they call it the Circus tent. After the first season the wear points were pretty worn (Sunbrella doesn’t have much abrasion resistance.) I made wear patches from an old cut up dingy and they have held without any obvious wear for the next 3 seasons.

Thanks for this great article. I wrestled with this decision after buying my first sailboat in the summer of 2020 and realizing that I had to make a decision as winter approached and some leaky deck problems caused me to want to dry the boat out. I decided I wanted a full cover that would transmit some light, and allow me to work underneath all winter. I chose a system from Kover Klamps. I have not seen them mentioned in your articles. It is based on metal electrical conduit (EMT) and connectors. All told, it cost about $1600 for the frame and a tarp to go over it with a zip door, tie downs, and spares. I expect to get two or three years out of the tarp, and decades from the metal frame. It took a good bit of time to build the first time, and is not easy to move. But it is nice to work under during the winter, and allowed me to replace my two fixed and four opening portlights last winter. This year I will probably repair a piece of broken deck under a stanchion, and re-bed all of the other stanchions. In all, it has allowed me to work in relative comfort. It costs less than shrinkwrap and has less plastic waste. It costs and weighs less than canvas, and allows solar heating and lighting. I worry that it causes a lot of wind resistance due to how high I made it. It is scary to work under when the wind exceeds 25 knots!

Polyethylene plastic, standard sized tarps purchased over the counter and now online have covered my sailboats 23 – 33 ft for the past 40 years. For Upper Peninsula of Michigan and significant snow and wind, relative success with several tarps lasting five years tied over mast down and/or DIY wood frames. I recently purchased two 20’x16′ about $60 each for 16 mil.

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How to Winterize Your Sailboat

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

We all know how it feels when that first cool breeze of winter comes creeping across the water and strikes your sails. All things must end, and when boating season comes to a close, that means it's time for sailors to winterize and store their sailboats. So, how do you store a sailboat for the winter?

Properly winterizing and storing your sailboat can take a good deal of both preparation and planning. At the most basic level, it simply entails draining all fluids, making minor adjustments and repairs, covering the boat, and then finding a place to store it. There are many different places you may be able to store your sailboat depending on its size. We'll go over all of your different options here for long-term sailboat storage.

Proper winterization can make all the difference when it comes time to pull your boat back out next spring. Winterization ensures that your boat lasts a long time with minimal need for expensive repairs and replaced parts. When you're done with this article, you should know everything you need to know about both winterization and storing your boat for the winter.

Table of contents

What Is Winterization?

For the most part, winterization simply means draining all the fluids from your boat that could freeze in extreme temperatures and damage the engine over the course of the winter. However, most sailors also use the winterization process as an excuse to perform routine maintenance and inspect for general repairs on their sailboats. Sailboats can get pretty grimy and scuffed-up over a full summer of sailing, so keeping up on your boat's appearances and performance before the start of each winter is a great idea.

The Winterization Process Made Simple

Step 1: drain the fuel.

If You Have a Gasoline Engine

This process can go two different ways depending on whether your boat has a diesel engine or a gasoline engine. If your sailboat has a diesel engine, the process of preparing your fuel tank for the winter can be slightly more complicated. If your sailboat has a gasoline engine, all you really have to do is run or drain all the fuel out of the engine and then leave the tank empty.

If You Have a Diesel Engine

If you have a diesel engine, there is a slightly more complicated process that will help to better ensure that your engine isn't injured over the long winter months. First, supplement your fuel tank with a stabilizer. Stabilizer prevents fuel from separating over the winter.

One the stabilizer has been added, top off the fuel tank with fresh diesel fuel. When you are finished with this, you will then want to go through and replace all of the fuel filters. Finally, drain the water separator until it's completely dry.

After this process, run the engine for 10 to 20 minutes so that the stabilizer has a chance to flow through all the fuel in the system. As you are letting the engine run, you can take the opportunity to ensure that there are no leaks in any of the fuel lines.

Step 2: Drain All Water from the System and Replace It with Antifreeze

The first step to this process is to completely drain the fresh water system of your boat. Once you are sure that the system has been completely drained, it's a good idea to clean out all of the tanks to make sure that there is no crud or build-up inside. After that it's time to fill the system up with antifreeze.

Some antifreeze that you'll find at the store comes already mixed with water and some does not. Be sure to check what kind you're buying as antifreeze always needs to be mixed at a 1:1 ratio with water before being added to the system. Every pump and hose in your entire fresh water system needs to be filled with this antifreeze mixture.

Step 3: Remove the Batteries

Your boat batteries will need to be removed before winter storing. As well, you will want to make sure that you are continuing charging maintenance on them at least once a month over the winter. Without performing this routine maintenance, your batteries might be DOA come spring. Once that happens, you'll be out a pretty penny replacing them.

You can use the opportunity provided by removing the batteries to take a glance at all the electrical connections and ensure that there are no problem areas. You should also gather up any and all marine electronics on board and take them inside with you for the winter. These can be damaged or stolen so it's not worth the convenience to store them.

Step 4: Remove All Other Extraneous Supplies

The less you leave on board your sailboat before storage the better. Anything you leave out runs the risk of weathering, damage, or theft. Loose items also have a tendency to get lost or simply become clutter.

You should check to ensure that all safety equipment is in top working order and that none of it is in need of replacement. Take account of all personal flotation devices, fire extinguishers, flares, and dock lines, as well as any other piece of safety equipment you are keeping on your sailboat. Some of these things will have an expiration date you should check every year to make sure that they are always working at their ideal level.

Step 5: Perform Routine Cleaning

Winterization is the perfect excuse to make sure your sailboat is sparkling clean. From the outside in, sailboats can get pretty messy over just the course of a season or two. Performing routine cleaning once a year will ensure that the dirt, grime, and contents of your sailboat never grow out of hand.

Firstly, you'll want to scrub down every surface on both the inside and outside of the boat. Salt and grime build-up on your boat can cause unwanted decay over extended periods of time. The more often you clean this build-up off of your sailboat, the longer it will last you.

Once you are satisfied with the outside and surface of your boat, it's time to get into the really messy bits. Any storage area or cabinet should be cleaned and excised of wanton garbage. Whittle everything down to the bare necessities and then store those necessities in a cool, dry place away from your boat for the winter.

Other parts of your sailboat that should be cleaned include any and all hardware fixtures, as well as and including the mast. Once you are finished with your cleaning, you will want to ensure that everything is properly dried before storage. Any and all water needs to be eliminated from your boat until the spring!

Step 6: Inspect Your Sailboat for Repairs

As we've already suggested, the winterization process is the perfect time to make a periodic inspection of your sailboat for any necessary repairs it may be needing soon. As with any type of vehicle, whether on land or sea, there are many little things that can go wrong with a sailboat. Always being proactive and keeping an eye out for repairs before the need becomes obvious can help ensure minimal damage, as well as minimal repairs costs.

You will want to inspect both the deck and the hull for any blistering or cracking that may be occurring. This will happen naturally and it's a good idea to deal with it as it comes up. Corrosion and grime build-up is another must to be dealt with.

Internally, you'll want to check the lifelines for any signs of corrosion. As well, you should make sure that your mainsheet system, turning blocks, winches, seacocks, and rope clutches are maintaining well. Then you will need to remove all of the tape from the spreader tips and turnbuckles so that you can give them each a quick inspection and be sure they're all working properly.

Finally, you'll need to remove and inspect the mast. You will also want to check the boom and the rigging for any wear they may have sustained over the spring and summer. Should anything need repairing, you've got two full seasons to deal with it!

Step 7: Repair the Sails and Store Them

As with other parts of your sailboat, cleaning your sails is always a good idea before putting them away. However, excessive cleaning can do more harm to your sails than good. For this reason, a simple light spraying and brushing of your sails should suffice.

Once you've managed to wash your sails, you should also be careful when it comes to how you dry them. Dacron and nylon, the materials that sails are generally made of, tend to be harmed by strong sunlight. For this reason, many people prefer to let their sails dry inside, whether in an indoor storage area or a large garage.

You should also make sure that your sails aren't in need of patching. Patching sails is an easy DIY job that you can perform with needles and patches from most boating supply stores. Ensuring that your sails are free from rips and tears is a must come spring.

There's one more thing you should keep in mind before storing your sails. Mice and other rodents tend to have a field day with the fabric that sails are made out of. If rodents get wind of your sails, they will likely be in worse condition come springtime than they are right now!

In order to keep your sails away from the clutches of pesky rodents, there are a couple of steps you can take. For one thing, you can keep them wrapped in plastic. For another thing, you should try to store them in an area that rodents will have a hard time reaching.

Step 8: Drain and Flush the Head

Should your sailboat have a head, it will need to be both drained and then flushed before winter storage. This should be done by pumping out the holding tank thoroughly. Once finished, add new water and then flush it through multiple times.

After several times flushing the tank, close the seacock for water intake, unplug the hose, and then fill the head full of the same 50/50 antifreeze and water mixture you used elsewhere. Be sure that at least some antifreeze makes it into the holding tank. Once you are done, simply replace the hose and then leave the seacock in the closed position.

Step 9: Arrange the Cabin

This step can entail a few different things depending on the specifics of your sailboat. Simply finalize everything and then be sure that there is nothing left over that needs to be taken care of. There are many extraneous parts on a sailboat that may call for special winterization steps.

If you have a stove on your sailboat, you will need to make sure that the propane tank is closed. As well, you should burn the stove for a few minutes to guarantee that there is no leftover propane sitting unburnt in the pipes. Once you are done, seal all the lines and then take all propane tanks off the boat for the winter.

Also be sure to mind any attached cloth and canvas parts on your sailboat. Steps will need to be taken to preserve these from rodents and pests. You can get a lot of use out of mothballs sprinkled around the vicinity near clothes to help keep the pests at bay. Otherwise, you can make use of plastic fabric and couch covers.

Step 10: Cover Your Boat

Now it's time to cover your sailboat. You will want to cover your sailboat regardless of whether you are storing it inside or outside. However, you may be able to get away with a less heavy-duty covering if you are storing your boat inside.

Special canvas covers are made for outdoor storing of sailboats. You are likely going to want to spring for one of these, as anything less allows for the possibility of unnecessary wear on your boat. If you are storing your boat inside then you can use a simple trailering cover or even just shrink-wrap.

Always Read the Owner's Manual Before Doing Anything!

Whether performing basic winterization, maintenance, or repairs, always be sure that you have read the owner's manual first! Articles like this one can be a lot of help, but they are typically written for the most general of audiences. Your boat may have specific features and needs that invalidate information that you read elsewhere.

Your owner's manual may also have some very helpful tips for winterization and storage. Boat manufacturers will typically take the extra care to include detailed winterization instructions in order to alleviate their own liability for potential damage to their products that may occur in the winter months. Keeping abreast of the specifics of your sailboat is always the number one most important way to make sure your sailboat is being properly taken care of.

Do I Need to Winterize My Boat?

While boat owners oftentimes dread the prospect of winterization, it is incredibly important. The more care you put into winterization, the faster you'll be able to get your sailboat back out on the waters come winter. As well, proper winterization and maintenance ensures the longest possible life for your sailboat.

Should you for some reason choose to opt out of the winterization process, you may be able to find a place that will do it for you. Many boatyards will perform basic winterization for a reasonable (though not small) fee. You can even choose to store your boat at that same boatyard to make everything as simple and easy as possible.

Winterization and proper storage will protect your boat from rain, snow, sun, and extreme temperatures. As well, performing routine maintenance and repairs during the winterization process is a proactive way to ensure the longest life for your boat. Whether these steps are performed by you or someone else, always be sure to get them done.

Where and How Should I Store My Sailboat?

Now we get to the good part, and by that I mean the end. Once the winterization process is complete and routine maintenance has been performed, it's finally time to secure yourself some storage and store your boat away. Of course, there are many different options depending on your wants, needs, and price.

As is typical with these kinds of things, the more money you spend, the more protection your boat is going to get. However, the highest price-point isn't always going to be viable or even necessary for the average boat owner. Here are some of the best options for long-term boat storage that are available for sailboat owners:

Your Own Property

The first and easiest method is to simply find a space on your own property that would be suitable for storing your boat. Not only is this method free but it also allows you to always be sure that your boat is where you think it is and that no one is breaking into it. However, you will need to have both room and shelter for it.

Another problem that can come up when trying to store your boat on your own land is the matter of HOAs, or homeowner's associations, and other local jurisdictions that may impose themselves on your property. Some municipalities do not like homeowners to store boats on their properties as they feel it makes the neighborhood look uncomely. In this case, you are pretty much forced to find another place to store your boat.

Outdoor Storage Facility

This would be any self-storage facility that allows you to store your stuff outside. Outdoor storage can be a good deal cheaper than indoor storage but it means that your boat will be at a higher risk. Be sure to keep this in mind before making your final decision.

With outdoor facilities, the type of paved surface your boat is being stored on may make some difference as far as the overall price point is concerned. Nice, smooth paving may make it easier for you to get your boat and trailer in and out of storage but it might also mean you'll have to pay a little bit more. Know what you're getting yourself into!

If you choose to go with an outdoor facility, you may wish to spring for a heavy-duty cover for your boat. Be aware that your boat will be totally susceptible to any rain and snow that will be occurring over the winter and fall. While winterization will ensure that your pipes don't bust, it doesn't mean that damage won't be done to the surface of your boat.

Indoor Storage Facility

There are many indoor storage facilities with units large enough to store even the most excessive boats and trailers. An indoor facility will provide maximum coverage and protection for your sailboat. However, it will be a more expensive option when compared to outdoor storage or storage on your own property.

Storing your boat at a boatyard is also sometimes referred to as "dry storage" or "rack storage". Sometimes marinas will also have their own boatyards for dry storage. Boatyards are specially-designed facilities that are intended for storing boats on land in a carefully organized facility over the winter. As such, they are typically located fairly close to large bodies of water.

As we've mentioned, a boatyard may be able to provide you with winterization services. Always be sure to make these plans well beforehand so you can be certain you won't have to perform any aspect of winterization yourself. This is another reason why boatyards are a great option for some sailboat owners.

Storing your boat at a marina isn't an option for all climates as it means your boat stays permanently in the water. Obviously, this is going to cause some issues should the water totally freeze over. However, if your climate allows for it, marina storage might be the long-term storage option for you. As well, some marinas in climates where water typically freezes over during the winter may offer dry storage.

Your boat remaining in the water is both the main positive and main drawback of marina storage. Having your boat ready and waiting for next season could be a huge benefit if it doesn't cause extraneous damage. One huge caveat, though, is that marina storage is typically fairly expensive, especially compared to other options.

Finding the Best Option for You and Your Sailboat

As you can see, where and how you store your boat is largely up to you and your needs. There are multiple options for any and all size boats and any and all types of winter. The larger your boat, the more expensive storage will be. The harsher the winter, the more imperative correct winterization is.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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How to Cover Your Boat for Winter: 7 Hacks to Not Mess Up

Covering your boat can help prevent damage from things like snow, ice, and freezing temperatures. However, covering your boat is not as simple as throwing a tarp over it and calling it a day. In this article, we will share with you seven hacks to help you properly cover your boat for the winter.

A few hacks to help cover your boat properly include choosing the right boat cover, cleaning and winterizing your boat before covering, securing your boat cover, using moisture-absorbing products in your boat, avoiding sharp edges and protrusions, using a boat cover support pole and covering all openings on your boat.

Using moisture-absorbing products in your boat can prevent damage caused by moisture, such as mold, mildew, rust, and corrosion. Some of these products include desiccants and dehumidifiers. Let's take a look at how each of them prevents moisture buildup on your boat during winterization.

• Securing your boat cover with tie-down straps and bungee cords can help prevent damage from wind and snow.
• Using a boat cover support pole, PVC pipe, or wooden dowels can prevent water from pooling on top of the cover and causing damage.
• To avoid sharp edges and protrusions on your boat, try using padding, a cover support system, a bow sock, or a cover repair kit to protect your boat cover from damage.
• To prevent water from getting inside and causing damage, you will need to cover all openings on your boat, such as the engine, vents, windows, hatches, and ports.

On this page:

Hack #1: choose the right cover, hack #2: clean and winterize boat, hack #3: secure your cover, hack #4: use moisture-absorbing products in your boat, hack #5: avoid sharp edges and protrusions on your boat, hack #6: use a boat cover support pole, hack #7: cover all openings, putting on a boat cover, best way to cover boat for winter.

A properly fitting cover will keep your boat clean and dry, preventing damage from rain, snow, and UV rays.

How To Make an Affordable DIY Winter Boat Cover

Measure your boat before buying a cover.

Measuring your boat ensures that you get a cover that fits your boat properly and provides adequate protection.

• Measure the length, width, and height of your boat, and be sure to take into account any accessories or equipment that may be on board.
• Once you have your measurements, you can start looking at different materials and styles of covers.

Tips to choose the right material and style

When choosing the style of cover, perhaps consider whether you want a custom-fit cover or a universal cover. Custom-fit covers are designed specifically for your boat and will provide the best protection, but they can be more expensive.

Universal covers are less expensive and easier to find, but they may not fit your boat as well. Here are some tips on how you can choose the right boat cover:

Consider the climate

If you live in an area with harsh weather conditions, such as extreme heat, cold, or precipitation, you may need a more durable and weather-resistant cover.

Look for breathable materials

A breathable cover will allow air to circulate, preventing moisture buildup and mold growth. This is especially important if you plan to store your boat for long periods of time.

What's the Best Material for Winter Boat Covers?

Choose a cover with reinforced seams.

The seams of your cover are vulnerable to wear and tear, so look for a cover with reinforced seams to ensure durability.

Consider the color

Lighter colors reflect sunlight and heat, while darker colors absorb them. If you live in a hot climate, a lighter-colored cover may be a better choice.

Think about the style of your boat

A pontoon boat will require a different style of cover than a fishing boat or a sailboat. Choose a cover that is designed to fit your boat's style and shape.

Look for a warranty

A warranty can give you peace of mind and protect your investment. Look for a cover with a warranty that covers defects and normal wear and tear.

Importance of cleaning and drying before covering

Cleaning and drying your boat before covering it helps to prevent the growth of mold, mildew, and other harmful organisms that can damage your boat's interior and exterior.

It also helps to prevent the accumulation of dirt, debris, and other contaminants that can cause corrosion and other types of damage to your boat's surfaces.

Tips to winterize your boat's system

Here are some tips for winterizing your boat's engine, fuel system, and other components:

Winterizing the engine

• Run the engine for a few minutes to warm it up. This will help to remove any moisture that may have accumulated in the engine oil.
• Once the engine is warm, change the oil and filter. This will help to remove any contaminants that may have accumulated in the oil.
• Add a fuel stabilizer to the fuel system to keep the fuel fresh during winter storage.

Winterizing the fuel system

• Start by filling the fuel tank with fresh fuel. This will help to prevent the buildup of condensation in the tank.
• Run the engine for a few minutes to circulate the stabilized fuel throughout the fuel system.

Winterizing other boat components

• To winterize other components of your boat, such as the water system, bilge pump, and electrical system, start by draining all water from the system. This will help to prevent the buildup of ice that can damage the system.
• Add antifreeze to the system to prevent any remaining water from freezing.
• Disconnect the battery and store it in a cool, dry place.

If you need a step-by-step guide on how to winterize a sailboat , here's an article you might find helpful.

Wind and snow can cause significant damage to your cover and the items it is meant to protect. Therefore, you might need to take measures to secure your cover and prevent it from being blown away or damaged. Some of these measures include the following:

Use tie-down straps

Tie-down straps are designed to hold your cover in place and prevent it from being lifted by strong winds. When using tie-down straps, you need to check if they are tight enough to keep the cover in place but not so tight that they damage the cover or the items underneath.

Use bungee cords

Bungee cords are elastic and can be stretched to fit over the cover and hold it in place. Ensure that they are not too tight as they can damage the cover or the items underneath.

Other methods for securing your cover include using sandbags or weights to hold it in place. These methods are especially useful for covers that are placed on uneven surfaces or in areas with high winds.

During winter storage, moisture can cause significant damage to your boat. It can lead to the growth of mold and mildew, which can cause unpleasant odors and health problems. Moisture can also cause rust and corrosion on metal parts, damage to electrical systems, and rotting of wood.

To prevent this damage, it is essential to use moisture-absorbing products in your boat such as the following:

Try using desiccants

Desiccants are materials that absorb moisture from the air. They are often made of silica gel, which is a porous material that can hold a large amount of water.

Desiccants come in various forms, such as packets, bags, or canisters. You can place them in different areas of your boat, such as the cabin, storage compartments, and engine room. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended amount and placement of the desiccant.

Use dehumidifiers

There are two types of dehumidifiers: electric and non-electric. Electric dehumidifiers use a fan and compressor to remove moisture from the air. They are more expensive but are more effective in reducing humidity levels.

Non-electric dehumidifiers, such as moisture traps or buckets, work by absorbing moisture from the air and collecting it in a container. They are less expensive but require regular emptying.

Other products that can help reduce moisture buildup in your boat include ventilation systems, air dryers, and moisture meters:

• Ventilation systems can help circulate air and reduce humidity levels. Air dryers use heat to remove moisture from the air.
• Moisture meters can help you monitor the humidity levels in your boat and determine if additional measures are necessary.

Cover damage can occur due to various reasons, such as sharp edges or protrusions on your boat. In this section, we will discuss common causes of cover damage and provide tips for using padding or other methods to protect your cover from damage.

Common causes of cover damage

• Sharp edges : Sharp edges on your boat can cut through the cover material and cause damage. These edges can be found on various parts of your boat, such as the windshield, cleats, and rails.
• Protrusions : Protrusions on your boat, such as antennas or fishing rods, can poke through the cover and cause damage.
• Wind : Strong winds can cause the cover to flap against sharp edges or protrusions, causing damage.

Tips to protect your boat cover

Use padding.

You can use foam padding or old towels to cover sharp edges and protrusions. This will prevent the cover from coming into direct contact with these areas and reduce the risk of damage.

Use a cover support system

A cover support system can help prevent damage caused by wind. It will keep the cover taut and prevent it from flapping against sharp edges or protrusions.

Use a bow sock

A bow sock is a padded cover that fits over the bow of your boat. It will protect the cover from damage caused by the windshield, cleats, and other sharp edges.

Use a cover repair kit

If your cover does get damaged, you might want to repair it as soon as possible. A cover repair kit will allow you to patch small holes or tears in the cover before they become larger.

When a boat cover is not supported properly, it can sag in the middle, which can cause water to pool on top of the cover. This can lead to damage to the boat and the cover, as well as mold and mildew growth.

3 Cheap Ways to Make a DIY Frame for Your Boat Winter Cover

Here are some examples of how to use support poles to create a peak in the center of the cover:

Adjustable support poles can create a peak in the center of a boat cover

These poles can be adjusted to the desired height and can be used on boats of different sizes. They are typically made of aluminum or fiberglass and are lightweight and easy to install.

PVC pipe can be another option

To create one, cut the PVC pipe to the desired length and place one end on the boat’s frame and the other end on the cover. Secure the pipe in place with duct tape or bungee cords.

You can use wooden dowels too

Wooden dowels can also be used to create a peak in the center of a boat cover. Cut the dowels to the desired length and place them on the boat’s frame. Then, drape the cover over the dowels and secure it in place with tie-down straps.

This hack makes sure that all openings on the boat are covered to prevent water from getting inside the boat and causing damage.

Boat openings that should be covered

Here are some examples of the types of openings that should be covered:

Engine : Make sure the engine is covered with a waterproof cover to prevent water from getting inside and causing damage.

Vents : Vents are a part of a boat's ventilation system, but they can also allow water to get inside the boat. Make sure all vents are covered with a vent cover to prevent water from getting inside.

Windows : Keep all windows closed and covered with a window cover to prevent water from getting inside.

Hatches : Hatches are openings on the deck or cabin of a boat that provides access to the inside of the boat. They are typically designed to be watertight, but they can still allow water to seep in if they are not properly covered. To prevent water from getting inside the boat through the hatches, make sure that all hatches are closed and securely fastened.

Ports : Ports are typically located on the sides of the boat and provide light and ventilation to the interior. To prevent water from getting inside, it is recommended to cover the ports with a port cover.

Putting on a boat cover can be a bit tricky, but with a little practice and patience, it can be done easily. Here are some steps you can follow to put on a boat cover:

Clean the boat

Before putting on the cover, make sure that your boat is clean and dry. This will help prevent dirt and debris from getting trapped under the cover and causing damage to your boat.

Unfold the cover

Carefully unfold the cover and lay it out on a clean, flat surface. Make sure that the cover is facing the right way up and that any zippers or other openings are in the right position.

Position the cover

Position the cover over the boat, making sure that it is centered and that it covers the entire boat. If you have a helper, you can ask them to hold one end of the cover while you position the other end.

Secure the cover

Once the cover is in position, start securing it to the boat. Begin by securing the cover around the bow and stern of the boat, using any straps or ropes that are provided with the cover. Then, work your way around the sides of the boat, securing the cover in place as you go.

Adjust the cover

Once the cover is in place, make any necessary adjustments to ensure that it is snug and secure. You may need to tighten straps or ropes or adjust the position of the cover slightly to ensure that it fits properly.

Check for gaps

Finally, check the cover for any gaps or areas where it is not fitting properly. If you find any gaps, try to adjust the cover or add extra straps or ropes to ensure that it is secure and snug.

Step-by-step guide on how to properly cover your boat

Create a support system.

Use PVC pipes and fittings to create a frame over your boat. This frame should create a peak in the middle of the boat to prevent water and snow from collecting on the cover.

Cover the boat with a tarp

Once the frame is in place, cover the boat with a tarp. Make sure the tarp is large enough to cover the entire boat and reach the ground on all sides.

Secure the tarp to the frame

Use bungee cords to secure the tarp to the frame. See if the tarp is tight and secure, without any low spots where water or snow can collect.

Add vents to the cover

To ensure proper ventilation, add vents to the tarp. These vents can be purchased or made by cutting small holes in the tarp and covering them with mesh.

Apply shrink wrap

Once the tarp is in place, apply shrink wrap over the top of the tarp. Make sure the shrink wrap is large enough to cover the entire boat and reach the ground on all sides.

Shrink the wrap

Use a heat gun to shrink the wrap to fit tightly over the boat. Start at the top of the boat and work your way down, making sure to apply heat evenly and avoid using too much heat in one area.

Pad sharp points or edges

Before applying the shrink wrap, see to it that you have padded any sharp points or edges on the boat to prevent them from puncturing the shrink wrap.

How to cover a sailboat for winter

Covering a sailboat for winter may differ from covering other types of boats like motorboats or fishing boats. Sailboats typically have a different shape and structure than motorboats, which can affect the way they are covered for winter.

Sailboats may have a taller mast or rigging that needs to be taken into account when covering the boat. The cover may need to be designed to accommodate these features and provide enough clearance to avoid damage.

Additionally, they may have more delicate equipment such as sails, lines, and electronics that need to be removed and stored separately to prevent damage during the winter.

This can be a more time-consuming process than covering a motorboat, which may only require removing the engine and other mechanical parts.

Best way to tarp a boat for winter

Tarping boat for winter storage

The best way to tarp a boat for winter depends on several factors, including the size and shape of your boat, the climate in your area, and the type of tarp you use.

If you have a small boat, a single tarp may be sufficient to cover the entire boat. However, if you have a larger boat, you may need to use multiple tarps to cover the entire vessel adequately.

If you live in an area with heavy snowfall, you may need to use a tarp with a steeper pitch to prevent snow from accumulating on top of the tarp.

Additionally, you may need to use additional supports, such as poles or ropes, to prevent the tarp from collapsing under the weight of the snow. You should also use a tarp that is specifically designed for outdoor use and can withstand the harsh winter elements.

Perhaps you might want to consider using a tarp with UV protection to prevent the sun's rays from damaging the boat's paint or upholstery.

See more of the benefits and drawbacks of using a tarp as a boat cover in this article.

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Winter Boating Tips

Table of Contents

Last Updated on August 17, 2023 by Boatsetter Team

Whether your home boating waters lie in Michigan, Florida, Utah, or Oregon, winter is a beautiful time. Of course, one will need to gear up a bit differently in Michigan than in Florida, but getting on the water any time of year is always an adventure in any part of the world.

A few precautions before going winter boating can help keep you safe. However, many are the same you follow when boating any time of year, with a few extras thrown in.

Being frostbitten is no fun, and it can happen as quickly in Florida as it can on the Great Lakes . So, when winter temperatures fall, and the winds are up, you must protect your extremities.

The following are winter boating tips to help you and your crew enjoy their time on the water when the temperatures fall to a brisk chill.

How do you operate a boat in the winter?

The extent of winter boat preparation should include a few extra clothes and boat safety checks for areas where the temperatures rarely fall below freezing. Even then, Florida, Texas, and the Gulf coast states can get very chilly, and some areas are prone to frost and freezing. So check the weather before setting out in your boat, no matter the time of year.

Many boaters use this time to have their boat’s oil changed, so get it done now. You will then be sure that everything is shipshape before taking it out in cold weather. A few hours of being stranded can be a big deal when you are out in the cold, so be sure your boat is in good shape before heading out on the water.

As an added means of keeping your boat in top condition, a good wash, and wax will protect your boat from the effects of winter weather. If you trail your boat, ice from the road can end up on your boat’s hull and topsides. Waxing your boat before winter will help keep your gel coat from being decimated by winter road grit.

Whether spending a cold day chasing a largemouth bass or merely enjoying a leisurely cruise, you need enough clothing to stay warm. That is unless you are in a boat with a heated cabin .

Can you leave a boat in the water over winter?

Yes, you can, even in areas where the water ices over. However, you need to prepare for it if you want your boat to be ready to go when you are. You will also need to inspect it often and be sure to protect it when winter storms roll in.

Most boaters winterize their boat in some way, whether they leave it in the water or not. If you live aboard a boat , you are likely aware of the dangers of freezing water lines, fuel lines, and ice buildup on the deck .

More  boats sink at the dock  than they do out on the water. A boat sinking at the dock can be due to a faulty bilge pump that fails to remove water that has leaked into your boat, and another reason can be a leaking through-hull fitting. One that is faulty can fail, and water can enter your boat and sink it if the bilge pumps cannot handle the influx of water before you find the problem.

Some through-hull fittings are above the waterline . If a boat gets a deck loaded up with ice or a tidal shift that lodges your boat under the dock, these fittings can go underwater, filling your boat until it sinks.

A failed bilge pump can also be the culprit when a boat sinks. Because those through-hull fittings do precisely that, they go through the hull , they will sometimes leak or completely fail, and a bilge pump can save the day until you arrive if it works.

Constant attention to the maintenance of your boat is warranted if you winterize your boat in the water . This is especially so if you live in an area where the temperatures fall below freezing.

Extreme cold weather can affect your boat’s batteries, fuel , and water system. Therefore, you need to inspect your engine, fuel, and water system frequently and before leaving the dock, every time you go boating in the winter months.

How to stay warm while onboard

You know what is worse than being cold or wet is being cold and wet! In addition, it can be dangerous, as it can lead to  hypothermia.

Dressing for boating is the key to enjoying your day on the water. Just as you would for any other winter sport, you need to layer up your clothing and do so while dealing with a  PFD (personal floatation device).

Fortunately, life vests have evolved right along with the designs of boats. Jackets are available that do double duty as life vests. Their built-in floatation allows you to move freely, look good, and keep you safe if you go overboard.

For sailors driving into the waves, ice anglers, and others around freezing water during the winter months, a survival suit might be best for you when on the water. Wind can make the air feel colder and will sap your body heat and strength unless you are prepared for its onslaught.

Items to keep you warm aboard:

Layer your clothes, starting with thin layers first. Choose materials that dry quickly, like wool and synthetics. Your outer layer of clothing should be wind and water-resistant, and you should avoid cotton clothing altogether, if possible.

Waterproof boots over wool socks will keep your feet warm. Be sure to take extra socks with you when going out on the water in the winter. Wet feet can make you cold all over, and you will want to be able to change them several times, if necessary.

Wear a lined waterproof hat, cap, or watch cap to keep your head warm that covers your ears, too. Cover your eyes with sunglasses or ski goggles if you have them, and protect your mouth and nose, too, to keep from getting windburn.

Neoprene gloves are warm, dry, and will allow you to move your hands freely. Maintaining your agility while staying warm can be a challenge, but it is worth the trouble once you get out on the water. Your boat may not have a cabin, but hand and foot warmers can be a day changer when out in the cold and are handy to have aboard.

Are you ready to get out in the cold?

Boating in the winter is invigorating. For sailors, the winds aren’t as unpredictable as they can be in the summer months. However, storms can blow in unannounced, and winter storms, coupled with the cold, can be a dangerous combination if you are unprepared.

Whatever type of boat you use to get on the water, prepare yourself and it before leaving the dock. If you ensure your boat is maintained and has the proper equipment with you, your day on the water will be uneventful. 

However, if you fail to keep up with your boat’s maintenance, rest assured that extreme cold weather will find your boat’s weaknesses.

No matter the time of year, but especially in the winter due to the cold, have a  float plan  before setting off on any water-bound adventures. A float plan essentially lets someone know where you are going and when you will return. It will give the authorities a place to start if you and your crew do not return when you say you are. Even the best-maintained boats can have problems.

Boat Maintenance is a big expense – renting your boat can help pay the costs.

Whether boating excursions happen in the lakes of North America, the Gulf of Mexico, or the Mediterranean, maintaining a boat is expensive . 

Renting your boat with Boatsetter can help offset some of your costs .

By renting your boat, you will have the opportunity to meet new people and even act as captain of your boat, if you so choose. Boat owners worldwide have their boats listed with Boatsetter, and you can rent out yours, too. No matter the time of year, someone out there would like to get out on the water!

Boatsetter empowers people to explore with confidence by showing them a world of possibility on the water. Rent  a boat,  list  your boat, or become a  Boatsetter captain  today.

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Winterizing Your Sailboat

Posted October 28, 2019

Expert tips and resources for decommissioning your boat before the first freeze

When you’re considering winterizing your sailboat, there are four crucial factors to consider: 1) water expands when it freezes, 2) checklists are plentiful and free, 3) inexpensive tarps shred in winter storms easily, 4) winter is closer than you think. Consider the following as old man winter approaches the Chesapeake Bay : 

1. The expansion of water and why it matters

After analyzing 10 years’ worth of boat insurance claims for freezing, BoatU.S. reports that more than three quarters of them involved cracks in the engine block or the exhaust manifolds that occurred because water remained in a boat’s engine or cooling system during a hard freeze. “Cracked engine block” are three terrible, expensive words for any boat owner.

Of course, some of these insurance claims come from southern climes in which boaters hedge their bets that temperatures won’t go low enough for a freeze. We’re smarter than that on the Chesapeake… right? Yet procrastination happens, and it can be costly, so don’t wait until December to winterize. 

According to Chris Sjolie of Chesapeake Dockside Services, a common mistake boaters make when winterizing is forgetting about “systems they take for granted. They forget that these things are there and need to be taken care of. For example, washer-dryer systems do not get winterized, or the water filtration system (reverse osmosis systems), anchor washdowns, or aft showers.” 

Winterizing your engine is a high priority, but it’s important to do it right. Brian Conner at Rhode River Marina in Edgewater, MD, says, “I’ve seen boaters using the portable jug with earmuffs trying to suck up antifreeze to winterize the engine—if it’s not in the right condition, the thermostat will not open up and the coolant will not go through the whole way; they’re leaving their engine somewhat unprotected. If you don’t get enough antifreeze into the engine, it can create corrosion.”

Find yourself a good winterization checklist, and make sure to familiarize yourself with your owner’s manual. If that sounds daunting, hire a professional. 

Sjolie recommends finding a marine service pro “who has experience, someone who can show you their checklist, someone who has an established reputation that you can find online or through peers, and somebody’s who’s willing to back up their work.”

2. Checklists are free and easy to find

Marine professionals often echo the same sentiment about winterization: it’s important to be methodical as you do it. Even the pros follow their checklists from top to bottom. Sjolie uses his “to keep things in order and sequential: water system (all tanks drained), focus on water heater (drained and bypassed), engines and generators, and then all the systems.”   

Conner says, “I tell my customers whether you do it yourself or through us, if you follow our work order, your boat will be dependable and run well, and its engine will be efficient.” 

Find Rhode River Marina’s detailed “winter work order” checklist in a downloadable PDF on the website ( rhoderivermarina.net ). It includes pricing for each service if you’d like their staff to fully winterize your boat or do various parts of it from boat detailing to shrink wrapping.

The free 15-page BoatU.S. Winterization Guide ( boatus.com/seaworthy/winter/winterizing.pdf ) contains a thorough checklist and more detailed instructions on each task. 

Diversified Marine Services of Annapolis also offers a downloadable winterization checklist on its website ( diversifiedmarineservices.com ). 

3. Cheap tarp? Find a better storage solution

We’re only sort of joking when we talk about cheap tarps. According to marina managers we’ve interviewed over the years, they often see people covering their sailboats in inexpensive tarps with mediocre tie-downs and walking away from them in the winter, leaving the tarps to shred in the first good nor’easter. This is not a great way to treat your prized possession. 

A climate-controlled indoor storage facility would be ideal for winter boat storage, but it may not be accessible or feasible for you. Keeping a boat protected while outdoors in the winter has its challenges, the cover being only one of them. 

When it comes to in-water winter storage, Sjolie says “It should be not very different from out-of-water storage, but all seacocks and ball valves need to be closed; properly winterize all hoses to mitigate the chance of any freezing or damage.” 

BoatU.S. notes that an in-water boat does not have time for the hull to dry out in the winter months, making it more susceptible to blisters over time. A safer solution is to haul the boat and keep it on a trailer, custom cradle, boat lift, jack stands, or in a “boatel.” 

Custom canvas covers with wood or aluminum frames to allow for air circulation and to prevent pooling can cover the boat well, as long as there are sufficient vents. Shrink-wrapping is also a popular and effective winterization technique for protecting your boat when it’s outside all winter. 

Conner says, “Shrink wrapping is a great solution if it’s done properly. First, all of our boats get washed to get salt off. The canvas is taken down and folded up, laid flat, and stowed. The boat has to be completely dry, no dampness (we shrink wrap indoors). We put in a number of Damp Aways in a bucket, so when the moisture comes in it goes into a bucket (a gallon jug with top cut off), not all over the interior of your boat. Properly venting, building a structure under the boat, and strapping are important, too. If done right, shrink wrapping can be the perfect solution.”

Arrange for your haul-out early so that the marina staffers have time to fit it into their schedule. Remember, if you want to put your boat back into the water early in the season next spring, schedule the haulout toward the end of the marina’s window. If you want to keep the vessel on shore longer, haul it out early, so you’re the last to go back in.

If you leave your boat in the water all winter , you can also schedule a so-called “short haul” in early spring—in which the vessel will be out of the water for only a few days—so you can work on projects that you can’t do once she’s in the slip, such as painting the keel or replacing the propeller.

4. Winter is closer than you think

The average low in the month of December in Maryland and Virginia ranges at 32 degrees Fahrenheit, exactly the danger zone for your sailboat’s systems if they have not yet been properly winterized. That doesn’t mean it won’t freeze in November. Ask any good gardener when the first frost is along the Chesapeake, and you might be surprised to find how vulnerable your boat can be before Thanksgiving. Don’t wait to winterize your boat. Keep her safe and protected, and you’ll be happy come spring when you’re the first boater to leave the slip.

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Prepping your Sailboat for Winter

• By Ellen Massey Leonard
• Updated: December 15, 2018

While full-time year-round cruising is the goal for some sailors, part-time voyaging is often more realistic, or even preferred. For the past few years, my husband, Seth, and I have been lucky enough to be part-time voyagers, working ashore for nine months at a time and sailing for three. It’s made for a perfect balance between everything we love about shore life and feeding our need for the open ocean, drawing canvas (well, Dacron) and new landfalls.

Part-time voyagers, whether sailing for six months or one, face an important process at the end of each season: laying up the boat. If we do it well, we return to our boat, Celeste , in much the same condition as when we left it, which means we can quickly get out on the water instead of doing repairs.

Depending on your location, the boat can either be hauled out of the water or left in a secure marina. There are pros and cons to both scenarios. Hauling eliminates growth on the hull and allows work to be done, such as painting the bottom, changing anodes and servicing seacocks. When coupled with indoor storage — as is common in Maine , for example, where heavy snow on the decks can be a real problem — it’s an ideal wintering solution. Outdoor storage on the hard is generally cheaper and more readily available. In some places, in-the-water storage can be a better option, and sometimes it’s the only option.

We have left Celeste in wet storage several times. The first time was during our circumnavigation , when we left her in a marina outside Cairns, Australia, for the cyclone season while we returned to the United States to work. The other times have been in Dutch Harbor, Alaska, the port in the Aleutian Islands made famous by the TV series Deadliest Catch. Despite the very different climates and locations of Dutch Harbor and Cairns, the laying-up process was surprisingly similar.

The tasks involved can be broadly broken down into these categories: hedging against wind-induced risks, caring for the engine, keeping the batteries happy and preventing boat funk.

Wind Protection

Every time we leave our boat, Seth and I pay close attention to anything that could go wrong in high winds. We start by trying to reduce windage, thereby lessening the strain a storm would put on the boat. The obvious windage culprit is the roller-furling genoa and mainsail, which we store either in the saloon or with friends ashore. We also remove everything on top of the mast — VHF antenna, tricolor and wind indicator — although this is more because of perching birds than high winds. Next to go are the halyards, which we replace with very thin feeder lines. We also remove our canvas dodger. Initially, we did this as yet another measure against general windage, but after seeing a friend’s dodger get torn to shreds in a Dutch Harbor storm, we now think this is more a measure to protect the dodger itself.

In the same vein, we lash plywood to our solar panels to prevent breakages. Last winter, this turned out to be essential: A typhoon hit Dutch Harbor, and rocks flew through the air, breaking car windshields and house windows all over the island. Happily for us, our solar panels remained intact. We no longer have a wind generator, but when we did, we removed its blades. We also strip the deck, storing oars, boat hook, grill, stern anchor and extra propane cylinders ashore. This is partly motivated by rumors of theft off unattended boats.

Perhaps most important are the dock lines and fenders. We’ve learned from hard experience — our boat heeling over in that same typhoon and getting caught under the dock — to use many more fenders than seem necessary. For dock lines, we use thick nylon rope with good plumbing-hose for chafe gear. This seems to work well; we’ve never had a problem with our dock lines.

Engine Care

Decommissioning our engine for in-the-water storage consists of changing oil and filters, checking the transmission fluid and antifreeze, and running fresh water mixed with antifreeze through the raw-water intake as a precaution against freezing and corrosion. It’s also important, whether ashore or afloat, to top up the fuel tanks completely to prevent condensation. The same applies to the cabin heater’s fuel tank, if you have one.

Battery Power

On Celeste , keeping the ­batteries happy is simply a matter of plugging into shore power and turning on the smart charger. It regulates the charge to the optimal level for AGM batteries in a cold climate. The charger’s initial installation was a bit of a project, but now it’s easy to keep the batteries healthy all winter. When we sail to a warmer climate, we’ll have to adjust the charger for warmer temperatures, but otherwise it’s fairly maintenance-free. When we left our boat in Australia, we did not have an adapter for Aussie shore power, so we simply turned everything off and switched the batteries off once they were fully charged. This seemed to work fine, but would have been less ideal in a cold climate.

Preventing boat funk is probably the most time-­consuming job. But since I hate that mildewy boat smell, it’s well worth it. First, we sort through everything we have on board. This is a great opportunity to thin out the junk that tends to accumulate. Any open or perishable food that we haven’t eaten by our departure gets tossed, and if possible, we store all the nonperishables ashore. (We added this to our checklist after hearing rumors of rats in Dutch Harbor.) Any items that have a hint of mildew smell — blankets, clothes, cushions and towels — get laundered and, if feasible, stored ashore. Things that can’t be laundered, such as mattresses or books, just get dried out and stored ashore.

Then we deal with various areas of the boat. Starting at the bow, we wash down and dry all the anchor chain and rode before replacing it in the anchor locker. The holding tank gets pumped out, and the head gets a good scrub and a hefty dose of vinegar. The vinegar breaks down any mineral buildup and keeps the head free of odors. We preserve the membrane of our Katadyn watermaker and run it dry, just in case of freezing conditions. We empty the water tanks and plumbing to prevent growth, and flush them with a small dose of diluted bleach for sterilization. Any bleach should not be pumped out into the ocean, of course, but disposed of properly on land. Following another flush of water, we add a little antifreeze and water to prevent anything from bursting in case of unexpected freeze-up. It’s important to use antifreeze that’s approved for drinking-water tanks; either marine or RV works fine. All the way aft in the galley, we empty, dry and clean the refrigerator and leave the top off it.

Because we have a cold-molded wooden boat (and also because we loathe boat funk), we’re fanatical about keeping our bilge dry. We sponge it out thoroughly and then take paper towels to it until we’re just getting dust. Then we leave several of the floorboards open to circulate air.

Right before departure, we wipe down all surfaces with either Simple Green or white vinegar to prevent mildew. Then we plug in our big General Electric active dehumidifier to one of our AC outlets. It drains continuously into our sink and keeps the boat’s humidity at 50 percent, a huge reduction from the ambient 85 to 90 percent that persists in Dutch Harbor. Of course, leaving a big appliance running like this means it’s imperative to have someone check on the boat regularly. We’ve been lucky to have close friends in Dutch Harbor who’ve watched over our boat, but it’s quite possible to hire people to do this. Many American marinas require that you have a boat caretaker if you are leaving for an extended period. This seems a sensible requirement on all fronts, not least as it provides peace of mind for you as the owner.

Seth and I generally finish laying up the boat in about five days to a week. Yes, that’s a week that we can’t spend sailing or anchored in a beautiful, deserted cove, but it’s time well spent. With it complete, we feel comfortable leaving our Celeste for a whole winter — even in the Bering Sea — and it means we return in the spring to a clean, fresh-smelling, functional boat. Additionally, it’s a systematic, biannual (since we recommission each summer too) overhaul of the whole boat and its systems, enabling us to keep close tabs on its condition and what might need upgrading or repair. So, in some ways, despite the amount of work involved, laying up is yet another advantage to part-time cruising.

Ellen Massey Leonard and her husband, Seth, recently sailed their classic cutter to the the Alaskan Arctic. You can check out their video series at cruisingworld.com/gone-floatabout .

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How to Winterize a Boat: An Expert Guide

September 03, 2024

Maintaining your boat is the best way to keep making great memories on it for as long as possible. Regular maintenance is already part of your routine, but boats require special attention at certain times of year — like when being stored for the winter. 

When you’re done enjoying the water for the season, follow our detailed guide on how to winterize a boat .

Why Winterize a Boat?

Effective winterization today prevents costly repairs tomorrow and ensures a smoother start to your next boating season.

When thinking about winterization, many focus primarily on their engines — but proper winterizing protects far more than just the engine. The winterization process safeguards your entire boat, inside and out, with benefits like:

• Protecting the engine: If you don’t winterize your boat, water could freeze inside the engine, cracking it entirely or creating other internal problems.
• Stabilizing fuel: You can keep fuel fresh and unfrozen by using a fuel stabilizer to keep condensation from accumulating.
• Maintaining battery life: Properly removing and storing batteries prevents damage and power drainage.
• Safeguarding the hull: Winter is harsh on paint and boat materials, but you can prevent blistering and other issues by winterizing.
• Preventing mold and corrosion: A boat that’s clean and dry both inside and out is less likely to develop mold and moisture-related corrosion.
• Ensuring lubrication: Lubricating protects against rust and corrosion of moving parts.
• Deterring pests: Rodents and insects can make a big mess during the off season, but winterizing keeps these pests out.
• Preserving the interior: Thoroughly cleaning your boat’s interior and removing sensitive items ensures it stays safe all winter long.

Tools for Winterizing Your Boat

To winterize your boat successfully, you’ll need:

• An air compressor for clearing water lines
• Non-toxic antifreeze to prevent freezing in systems
• Fuel stabilizer to keep fuel from deteriorating
• An automatic battery charger to preserve battery charge
• Basic tools for water draining and simple repairs
• Marine-grade lubricants to protect moving parts
• Eco-friendly supplies for a thorough cleaning
• High-quality covers for your boat and equipment

How to Winterize a Boat: Step by Step

Don’t be intimidated by the length of your boat winterizing checklist; taking it step by step makes it simple. Here are the key parts to focus on and our best tips for how to winterize a boat the right way:

1. Engine and Cooling System

Start by draining any water from the engine. This will prevent freezing and cracking. Next, fill the system with antifreeze designed for marine engines. We recommend a non-toxic, propylene glycol-based antifreeze, which is safe for the environment and your engine.

2. Fuel System

Fill your fuel tank to reduce space for condensation. Otherwise, your fuel tank could freeze and become damaged. Adding a fuel stabilizer will prevent the fuel from degrading. Be sure to use a marine-specific fuel stabilizer, then briefly run the engine to distribute it through the system.

To prevent cold damage and discharge, disconnect and remove your fully charged battery, and then store it in a cool, dry place. A battery maintainer isn’t strictly necessary, but it can help your battery stay charged and in top condition during long winter months.

4. Bilge and Pumps

Clean your bilge and pumps thoroughly, ensuring all water is removed from the system. You can also add antifreeze to prevent any residual water from freezing and causing damage. While you’re cleaning, you have a great opportunity to check for and repair any leaks before they worsen over the winter.

5. Freshwater System

Drain all tanks, water heaters, and lines, then pump non-toxic antifreeze into the system. When you’re ready to get back on your boat again, first flush the system with fresh water to make sure it’s clean and safe.

6. Interior

To guard against theft, remove all valuables and electronics before you store your boat. And don’t forget to double-check for perishables (unless you look forward to the smell of rotting food next year).

Clean the interior of your boat thoroughly and leave compartments slightly open to ensure air circulation and prevent mold and mildew. We suggest using moisture-absorbing products and mildew inhibitors to protect interior surfaces.

7. Exterior and Hull

Weather and UV rays both pose risks to the exterior and hull of your boat. To safeguard against both, start with a deep clean and then apply a coat of protective wax. Finally, cover the boat with a well-fitted, breathable cover. Ensuring a great fit helps prevent pooling water and ice formation, which can stress the boat structure.

8. Drives and Lower Units

Now is the time to check for and repair any damage to your drives and lower units. Pay close attention to seals and gaskets — leaks could let water in and cause ice damage. To prevent other moisture-related issues, change the gear oil.

9. Steering and Control Systems

You can stop corrosion in its tracks and ensure smooth operation in the spring by lubricating moving parts in your steering and control systems during winterization. Using marine-grade lubricants and protectants designed for your system will maximize effectiveness.

Remember to always refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines or consult a professional as you winterize to make sure you’re protecting your boat the best you possibly can.

How to Winterize a Boat: Special Considerations

Winterizing looks a little different for every type of boat and storage strategy. Tailor your approach to your specific boat and scenario for effective winterization.

Engine Types

You’ll follow a slightly different process for winterizing each engine configuration. But when it comes down to it, an engine is an engine, whether it’s on a sailboat or a motorboat.

Here’s a simplified overview of a few different tasks you may encounter:

• Sailboats: Protect sailboat engines from freeze damage by draining the engine and tank, then adding antifreeze.
• Inboard engines: In addition to draining water, you’ll need to flush the cooling system, fill up the fuel tank, use fuel stabilizer, and protect internal components from corrosion.
• Outboard engines: You can remove an outboard engine and store it separately, but you may still need to drain, lubricate, and apply antifreeze to certain components.
• Inboard-outboard (sterndrive) engines: Blend the inboard and outboard approaches to motor maintenance, focusing on draining, fuel stabilization, and changing the oil.

Storage Scenarios

Let’s go over the last few items on your winterization to-do list, depending on where you store your boat.

For boats stored in water:

• Close all seacocks to prevent water entry, except in the cockpit, where you still want to let water out.
• Tighten rudder shafts and stuffing boxes to prevent leaks.
• Inspect dock lines to make sure they’re durable enough to stand up to winter conditions.

For all boats:

• Clean and dry all storage areas to stop mold and mildew from developing.
• Leave the marine refrigerator open to avoid odors and mildew.
• Store cushions vertically to enhance air circulation and prevent mildew.
• Use moisture absorbers throughout the boat to further lower the risk of mold and mildew.

Want to learn more about boat maintenance, safety, or navigation? Our captain’s license courses prepare you for every season! Learn more about studying with us today.

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Better Sailing

Tips For Living On a Boat In The Winter

Winter and boating is not a match made in heaven, but for many people that live the dream of Liveaboard Life, it is something necessary. I hope you will find these Tips For Living On a Boat In The Winter useful. Here’s a brief guide for prospective winter liveaboards in cold climates:

Not all marinas accept liveaboards on the docks. Your first step when thinking about living on your boat for the winter is to call nearby marinas and check with them. When you locate a marina that does, you should ask about the cost of docking, electricity, freshwater, amenities like showers and laundry, and if they provide de-icers.

You’ll be just fine with two 3/4 hp “Ice Eaters” suspended on lines under the boat. Sometimes on smaller boats, one will do the trick, but you better be safe than sorry. The purpose of de-icers/ice eaters is to prevent the formation of ice by providing a continuous flow of warmer bottom water to the colder water on the surface.

They will maintain relatively clear water around the boat and keep the thick ice from freezing against your hull. In my experience, they should be run continuously from the first freeze up until the water warms in March. Putting them on timers doesn’t really work because they drift down into the weeds when switched off. Weeds and plastic bag debris near the bottom can stall the de-icers’ motor upon startup, blowing a fuse or twisting the AC cord, often causing the de-icers’ blades to cut the (expensive) waterproof cord. 

You might also want to get this mesh to make sure that debris will not damage the motor. 

Purchase two 1400W electric/oil style heaters for the saloon, plus one 400W electric/oil heater which will heat the aft area near the bottom of the companionway. Alternatively, you can get a couple of  Indoor-Safe  portable propane/gas radiant heater.

Winterize the engine (I didn’t) and place a 1300W fan-forced air heater alongside it. It should have a frost-watch setting which will keep the whole engine and cockpit lockers around 15C all winter. If there ever was a long-ish AC power failure in the marina or general neighborhood, we just started the engine and put it into reverse to prevent ice buildup and to help keep the boat warmer.

You’ll need two parallel 30A shore power connections to the dock. One cord feeds the usual boat system’s AC connection while the second one supplies a “pony panel” which you can probably build yourself. It’s a piece of plywood in the cockpit locker with a double pole main switch with 30A cartridge fuses protecting both the hot and neutral (switching and fusing both the hot and neutral wires is a recognized ABYC marine standard practice.) It feeds into a second box containing three circuit breakers, 15A each, outputting three cables to three duplex outdoor GFCI receptacles. It’ll supply two 4.7 amp de-icers, the fan-forced heater inside the engine compartment as well as the 400W electric/oil heater at the companionway. 

At Christmas, you can illuminate the inside of your plastic enclosure with colorful strings of low-power LED lights. In addition, we have a magnetically attached block heater on the engine.

The regular house AC system will run your DC battery charger, two 1400w heaters, the microwave, toaster, and coffee maker. Of course, you will need to do a circuit breaker “dance” when making toast or microwaving; temporarily reducing or switching off various heating loads when cooking.

I recommend the electric/oil/gas radiator type heaters because they are quiet, have manual low/med/hi settings and an adjustable thermostat. These heaters will come on by themselves after a power interruption, while those fancier digital LED-controlled heaters come back dead after a power interruption, a real hassle in the middle of the night or while you’re at work! With winter systems, simple is best. 

Multiple fan-forced heaters are drafty, have fewer power settings, are dangerous, and the sound of three fans will drive you crazy. The fan-forced heater next to the engine won’t be heard. You need fan-forced heat there to push the hot air around inside the engine compartment and cockpit lockers.

Make a wooden framework from 1×1 lumber, connected together with plastic brackets from a building center. It’s a sound system that is made for temporary shelters, carports, etc. Some folks use electrical conduit, but it’s heavier and harder to store in summer.

Buy some semi-clear heat-shrink plastic from a marine supplier or just buy some “Dr. Shrink” from Amazon. Do not use white or blue tape, get the clear one. You’ll really appreciate the bright daylight and the solar heating effect under semi-clear shrink. Some folks have a heavy cloth or plastic tarp sewn up, usually silver in color. It’s an easy job to cover the boat with a ready sewn cover in fall, but it’ll make your life miserable living underground with zero natural light available. Use semi-clear for better results.

You can shrink it with a purpose-built propane heat gun, you can rent one from a marina or boatyard. Alternatively, buy an electric one because they are used in multiple repairs. If you decide to buy one, get a good one from either Makita or DeWalt. Generally, when you buy your own tools, you better go for quality, I promise they will pay for themselves in the long run. I use a 2000W electric heat gun instead. This takes a little longer, but it is easier than finding someone to rent you a propane gun.

You can do this work yourself. You have to buy a 100ft roll of shrink 30ft wide. Only 50 ft each season should be enough, so one roll will last two winters.

Having this done professionally will cost you anywhere from $900 to $2,200!

You can also install a rigid plywood door on the enclosure, right forward of the jib sheet winch. Zippered doors in the shrink wrap will frustrate you and ultimately fail by New Year’s!

Some winter marinas offer bi-weekly pump-out. If you disconnect your electric pressure water pump, you can go up to four weeks on your water tanks! We boil a kettle or use the microwave to heat water for washing dishes. On sunny weekends folks get together and fill their water tanks with a garden hose supplied from an inside faucet in the marina’s laundry room or washroom facility. If possible, shower at work on weekdays to avoid the morning rush at the marina. I do not recommend showering in the boat. The humidity created will kill your interior teak and frost up the enclosure. Also, the propane demand water heater is dangerous in any season. You’ll be forever filling your water tanks. It’s not the best work on a cold winter night!

Strong dock lines with rubber snubbers and leather or plastic chafing protection will keep your boat from going sailing without you when those 45kt northwest winter winds swoop down on your marina. Double bow lines, two or three long spring lines and two stern lines are necessary. Our double-braided dock lines are 3/4 inch thick! A 100ft stretchy nylon laid line extended across the water to the opposite finger dock spine will hold the hull off the dock and help prevent your boat from chafing against the finger dock. 

We learned to secure our three large fenders to the dock, rather than to our boat. This means that only in the strongest winds will your hull ever touch the fenders, reducing hull chafe and those annoying fender squeaks when you’re trying to sleep at night.

Make sure you have enough warm clothes. Thick socks and fleeces are a must-have when you are living on a boat during winter. You might also want to consider a heated vest. They are pretty cheap, remove moisture from the rest of the clothes on you and will keep you nice and toasty no matter the temperature. 

You should keep your clothes in large Zip-lock bags inside cabinets and insulate the interior with bubble wrap sheets to keep things away from moisture that inevitably collects inside the hull.

To save space, our five large zippered pillows on the settees in our saloon each contain, not stuffing, but t-shirts, shorts, spare blankets, sweaters, and other bundle-able clothing. Winter parkas and boots are hung up in the shrink-protected cockpit.

You can never go to bed angry in your narrow-ish berth, and that’s one of the few upsides of having a small “bedroom”. You can also use an electric blanket to keep the bed nice and toasty. They require little power, and because the heat source is very close to your body, they are very effective in keeping you warm.

It’s quite warm and cozy when those icy winter blasts swirl around your boat. You’ll most certainly feel much warmer than your friends who live in houses since you’ll have plenty of flexible heating choices in a relatively small space. We never get tired of the coziness. 

Some boaters augment their electric heaters with diesel-fueled forced-air truck heaters or a diesel-burning fireplace. Others install metal propane or solid-fueled furnaces to help make the saloon even more cheerful. 

Other critical gear includes a Carbon monoxide detectors and propane detector/shut off system controlling the flow from your outboard-mounted propane tanks. An automatic bilge pump will rid your bilges of the water collected from accumulated condensation inside the hull.

Please note that I’ve been commenting on living aboard in winter. You need to be on your boat full-time to monitor water systems and most importantly, electric and heating systems. In my opinion, docking your boat in the water for the winter and retreating to a house is discouraged. In fact, frequent absences are dangerous, both for your own boat and especially for your liveaboard neighbors. 

Bilge water levels, propane systems, and especially electrical cords and connections require frequent inspections to keep you and your neighbors safer. Hi-tech on-board computers which e-mail boat environmental parameters straight to your phone is just that; Hi-tech! See “Simple is Best” in paragraph four above.

Power cords can overheat in continuous duty such as de-icing or electric heaters. One needs to be super-vigilant with electricity and fuel on a boat during winter.

Great care must be taken to make sure that exhaust and fresh air vents for fuel-burning appliances are frost-free and unobstructed. Exhausts must be well vented outside the hull and plastic enclosure. The only interior venting exception is your galley hatch, which must be opened up fully when cooking on a propane stove. A smoke alarm, or as I call it “toaster detector” is mandatory. 

Tips For Living On a Boat In The Winter – Conclusion

Living aboard over a cold winter is not very difficult after all. We’re not crazy! It just takes some planning and time in late October and early November to prepare for the three coldest months ahead. 

Your winter neighbors will be in “the same boat,” and there’s quite a co-operative atmosphere on the dock. We all look after one another. You should be detail-oriented, and have a flexible outlook on life and enjoy being close to nature.

Lessons learned over-wintering in your boat while maintaining a reasonable level of self-sufficiency in a cold northern climate are priceless.

The close friendships that you’ll make while wintering aboard will be long-lasting.

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to sail ALL winter

• Alison Wood
• January 17, 2019

25 tips for keeping your boat prepped, your crew warm, and adventures flowing over winter

There is every reason to continue cruising over winter

Winter can be a blissful time to be at sea. With the low sun sparkling off the water, deserted cruising grounds and short hops to pubs with roaring fireplaces, there’s every reason to stay afloat.

The weather windows are smaller and the challenges bigger, but with the right kit and a boat that’s prepped for the off, there are many glorious sails to be had.

But even if you have laid up for the season, there are still a host of ways to have fun on the water, from enrolling on RYA courses to crewing across the Atlantic.

1. SHORESIDE ESSENTIALS

Insurance & berthing

Many insurance companies insist that yachts on swinging moorings are brought into marinas over the winter. If that’s the case, it’s worth looking around as some winter berths can be as cheap as hard-standing. Check when the mooring was last inspected, and double-check mooring lines, cleats and fenders after strong winds.

If necessary you can lift, scrub and anti-foul in a day before getting back on the water in Spring. Some boat owners clean the hull between tides then anti-foul a few days later on a warm, dry day, preferably with a breeze.

Using an autopilot will prevent exposure on the helm for hours on end. For longer passages, a windvane steering system – which steers to a wind angle rather than a compass course – will stop you crash-gybing during a sudden wind-shift.

These steering systems are experiencing something of a renaissance amongst cruisers, as Yachting Monthly reported in October 2018 . In winter you’re more likely to encounter more mist and fog conditions, and with longer hours of darkness, radar or AIS can be a huge help.

Diesel engines will be harder to start in cold weather, so it’s worth keeping your batteries topped up – either with a solar panel or even by taking them home to trickle charge every now and then.

A cockpit tent, such as the Habitent, gives you more shelter.

Not all fuel berths are operational in the winter so keep your tanks full. This means there’s less surface area for condensation, reducing the chance of diesel bug forming.

Using an anti-diesel bug additive will help. Seawater freezes at -5°C so it’s unlikely your engine’s raw water cooling will turn to ice.

However, if you’ve found a sheltered mooring, where the water may be brackish, there is a chance of this happening. If a cold snap’s forecast, ensure the coolant is topped up with the correct mix of antifreeze.

Robust sail wardrobe

Air is colder and therefore denser in winter, and winds are stronger. The UK Met office gives an average of 8.2 knots in the summer compared to 10.8 knots in winter, with most major storms occurring in January. Of course, this is a mean average, and figures vary according to where you live.

Wind-strength in northern Scotland, for example, averages at 13.1 knots, compared to 9 knots on the South Coast. At sea, the wind will be much stronger.

Is your sail wardrobe up the job? If it’s not, now’s the time to look at fitting an extra reef or investing in a storm jib, especially if your crew are likely to go AWOL on the first frost.

Make sure you and your crew have plenty of warm drinks

Keep pillows and duvets stored in a vacuum bag. These are inexpensive and the air can be removed with a 12V vacuum cleaner or an electric dinghy pump with the setting on ‘deflate’. Some types allow you to simply roll out the air.

If you prefer a sleeping bag, opt for a 4-season or 5-season sleeping one. Mummy-shaped sleeping bags are tapered at the bottom to help keep warm air close to your body, rather than circulating and cooling down.

Decks & pontoons

The last thing you want is to sustain a nasty injury boarding the boat. Give slippery algae-covered pontoons a scrub with a deck cleaner such as Ronseal, and finish with salt water.

If your decks are icy, a bucket of seawater and a scrubbing brush will do the trick.

Cockpit tent

A cockpit tent or enclosure means you can keep a hatch open for ventilation without letting in huge amounts of cold air. It also means you can stow wet sails and clothing outside.

If a tailor-made cockpit tent seems too costly this season, consider an ‘off-the-shelf’ alternative such as the Habitent, which is a compact and adjustable cockpit enclosure that will fit most boats.

Passage planning

Look for high-pressure weather systems that will give settled conditions and sunshine. Don’t be too ambitious; halve what you consider to be a good summer passage.

A short hop to a favourite pub or anchorage is a realistic day’s sail when daylight hours are dwindling and the temperature’s dropping.

For longer passages, pre-dawn departures are much better than arriving at an unfamiliar destination in the dark.

2. ON THE WATER IN WINTER

Don’t be tempted to wear thick, bulky clothing. Even in winter, thin layers are best, as they trap more air. Invest in a good base layer – fabrics such as merino wool are wicking, thermal and breathable. Mid-layer salopettes will give more warmth than a standard fleece.

Choose brightly coloured oilskins, which will stand out better than blues and greys at dusk and in fog. If you’ve not replaced your waterproofs in the last couple of years, you’ll be surprised how technology’s moved on.

Gone are the fleece linings that soak up water and the bulky outer shells. Today’s oilskins are lighter, more waterproof and durable, with new brands causing a stir at the budget end of the market, such as Decathlon’s Tribord range.

Make sure you plan your passage so there is still plenty of light when you arrive at an unfamiliar place

Thick waterproof, thermal gloves are good for passages, but can be tricky if you’re fiddling with knots and adjusting sheets.

Dry hands are warmer than wet hands, so try to keep your lines dry. If you prefer fingerless gloves for dexterity, wear a pair of rubber gloves underneath – dinghy sailors swear by them!

When cold, numb hands need a quick fix, air-activated hand-warmers are just the job. A 40-pack of Little Hotties costs less than £20.

Up to 70% of body heat is lost through the head, so a good sailing hat is essential. Buffs are good too, and can be worn as neck-warmers or balaclavas.

Eye protection

Don’t forget your shades. When the sun’s lower in the sky, a good pair of sailing sunglasses is essential to stop you having to squint to see the channel mark.

Oversized glasses with wide-view wraparound lenses are good. Keep them fixed to your head with a floating safety strap, which costs about £10.

Keep lines dry and swap your gloves if they get wet. Credit: Graham Snook

Food and drink

Keep a flask of coffee or thermal mug within reach – it’s easier than going down below. Flasks of water can also be used for keeping hotdogs warm (but don’t get them mixed up!).

Alternatively, bring a wide ‘food flask’ for pasta or soup (Wilko does a good one for £7). Food that can be heated in the oven – such as Cornish pasties – is great for keeping up crew morale.

At least you won’t have to worry about using the fridge in winter. Turn it off to save power and use a cockpit locker instead.

Cockpit cushions

The only thing slightly worse than cold hands and feet is a cold bum! If you don’t have cockpit cushions, invest in on one.

Buoyant deck cushions have waterproof outers and polyethylene foam. Attach them to your boat through a nylon hook at the back.

They start at about £40 per pair. Some waterproofs also now come with padding in the seat and knees, which adds a surprising amount of comfort.

Tackling condensation

Condensation is inevitable on a boat in winter. Moisture in warm air settles and condenses onto cold surfaces, which can allow mould to grow.

In a non-heated boat, opening vents and windows will keep an ambient moisture level equal with the exterior. If you run a heating system, you’ll need to open windows and vents so moisture can escape.

Another option is a dehumidifier. A basic chemical desiccant will work well for a limited period. On a boat, an electric desiccant dehumidifier is the one to go for if you have power, as this will work even in a cold boat, but limit the ventilation.

The normal condenser-type will only work if the ambient temperature is reasonably high.

Choose brightly covered outwear so you stand out better against the blues and the greys at dusk and in fog

Cabin heaters

Many crews sail happily through winter without heating. However, temperatures plummet at night – especially in high pressure conditions without cloudform.

If you want to stay comfortable there are a few options worth considering. If you have shore power onboard, a fan heater will warm the cabin quickly, but it will be cold again as soon as you switch it off. An electric heater will draw heavily on your power.

Other options to explore are diesel forced air heaters , made by Webasto and Eberspacher , or gas heaters made by Propex. However, both a diesel heater and a gas heater need fans to circulate the heated air, so again consume moderate amounts of power.

Propane/butane heaters blow hot air around the boat and can hook up to the electrics when you’re in a marina. An oil-filled radiator can be left on overnight, which will keep the chill away and reduce condensation if you allow ventilation.

On the water, there’s a range of traditional stove-type heaters that run on gas, diesel and paraffin. However, the dangerous gases, especially carbon monoxide, need to be vented via a chimney.

Whatever you do, make sure you have a working CO alarm on board (it costs as little as £10). Finally, nothing beats a good old-fashioned hot water bottle for a good night’s sleep.

Final checks

Before you leave your boat, prop up the cabin cushions so they can air whilst you’re away, and either take home your bedding 
or repack it into vacuum bags.

Sails and lifejackets

Take home wet sails and air them – don’t leave them stowed below, where the interior can get damp and mouldy.

Also, if your lifejacket’s wet, open it up and dry out the innards, otherwise the cylinders may eventually start to corrode.

3. ALREADY LAID-UP

Do an RYA course

If your boat’s on the hard but you’re not ready to hang up your oilskins, now’s a great time to look at RYA courses.

Sailing schools reduce their prices in winter, and throw in deals such as free hire of wet weather gear. Shorter days mean more night hours, which are required for progressing through the RYA courses (4 for Day Skipper, 8 for Coastal Skipper and 12 for Yachtmaster Coastal).

Some courses are held on consecutive days, others are spread over weekends to suit work schedules.

If you’re thinking of chartering abroad, now’s also a good time to get the required paperwork in order.

Many European countries require the skipper to have an international certificate of competence (ICC), which you can achieve on either a 4-hour assessment, or 1-day course at an RYA centre.

Become a delivery crew

Yachts get delivered all year round, and professional agencies such as Halcyon Yachts are always keen to hear from would-be crew and skippers.

Typically deck crew must be qualified to RYA Day Skipper as a minimum and capable of solo night watches.

RYA courses run all winter and are often discounted

Sail overseas

If you’re after some winter sun the Caribbean has lots of options for bareboating, flotilla sailing or skippered charters. Some operators also offer sailing in Southeast Asia.

The Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) is a great way to escape the winter and cruise in company. New for this year is the ARC+ St Vincent, which includes a stopover in Cape Verde, and finishes in St Vincent.

The organiser, World Cruising Club (WCC), runs nine different rallies altogether throughout the year (www.worldcruising.com).

Crew overseas

Many boats will be crossing the Atlantic well into January and will have last-minute crew positions available, starting in the Canary Islands.

Sign up to crewing websites such as Ocean Crewlink (the official WCC site), Crewbay and Find a Crew, to hear of the latest opportunities and register your interest with skippers.

Boats will be looking for crew for next year’s ARC as early as January. Another tip is to offer to help deliver boats to Las Palmas in Gran Canaria.

Often skippers have greater need of delivery crew than Atlantic crew.

Choose to sail overseas, either by booking a charter or by taking part in the ARC. Credit: WCC/Claire Pengelly

Frostbite racing

Yacht clubs often run a ‘frostbite’ racing series through the winter for anything from dinghies to large cruisers.

Crew can be thin on the ground at this time of year, and skippers are grateful for last-minute crew, even if inexperienced.

Check out the noticeboards and website for your local club or email them with your details. Also, check out www.boatbuddys.co.uk to find crewing opportunities near you.

Pay-as-you-go sailing

Sailing dinghies throughout winter is a great way to polish your wind awareness and ‘pure sailing’ skills without the aid of electronics.

Many clubs offer ‘Pay-as-you-go sailing’ or discount winter memberships. For example, Hengistbury Head Adult Sailors Club in Dorset charges £12 membership per year, and you can take out a dinghy during an organised session for £10 at the weekend. On weekday evenings the club holds free RYA theory sessions.

Queen Mary Sailing club in south-east London offers monthly gym-style membership where you can sail their dinghies whenever the club’s open.

Typically, dinghy clubs require you to have a minimum of RYA Dinghy Level 2, or demonstrate you can sail competently round a course.

Winter Sailing – Tips to Sail in Colder Weather

Leaving the boat in the water over the winter so you can go cold weather sailing requires forethought to be safe and protect your sailboat.

Living on the Chesapeake in Virginia’s Northern Neck, I noticed last winter that there were a significant number of days that seemed warm enough to go winter sailing: 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit. This year I decided to leave my boat at the slip and try to take advantage of potentially “good” weather.

However, it boiled down to three primary issues:

I keep both hull coverage and protection and indemnity (P&I) coverage on the boat. However, my previous insurance policy had a layup period, so in order to use the boat over the winter, I had to pay more to get a full years’ coverage. Finding hull coverage for the winter was difficult, but not impossible.

I was told that on Cockrell Creek it never froze , so I didn’t proceed with the purchase of a bubbler or agitator unit.

That – in fact – was a mistake. She didn’t suffer any damage to the hull during the winter “bomb cyclone”, but it was a lesson learned.

I have an electric engine, so winterizing the boat is really just draining the water tank and making sure the batteries are charging. However, I usually don’t truly inspect the boat during the winter, that’s always been for spring commissioning.

Winter Sailing Prep List

In December I went through the boat with a formal checklist and identified some pretty basic things that I should have noticed before. I’m meticulous about inspecting the standing and running rigging, but apparently less so with other things.

The following is generally what I looked for:

• Ground Tackle: Primary and secondary anchors and rode ready to go?
• Electrical System: wires and connections without discoloration/damage; batteries are well secured …etc.?
• Bilge Pumps: does automatic bilge pump work; are bilges clear; does the manual backup work?
• Through-hulls: sea-cock handles work; hoses are in good condition; double hose-clamps; thru-hull plugs attached; and stuffing box functioning?
• Safety at Sea: nav lights; horn; VHF; PFD’s; fire extinguisher …etc. all in good repair?
• Standing and Running Rigging : wire, line, blocks and fittings in good repair (aloft and on-deck)?
• Sails: damage to sail seams and slides?
• Mast and Boom: corrosion or damage at fittings, joints and spreaders?
• Maneuvering: prop shaft; throttle; transmission; zincs; and rudder operate?

After fixing the missed items, I took the boat out in January, when the temperature was supposed to be in the 50’s and the wind 10-15 knots from the south.

I convinced a friend to join me on the sail, largely because I don’t think it’s safe to sail alone in the winter. Don’t get me wrong, most of the time I’m a solo sailor. I enjoy being out on my boat alone, but not in the winter…

In my youth, and in a much smaller boat, I’d been dismasted because I was pushing an old boat beyond her limits. As a more experienced sailor, I am much more cautious and reef early.

The wind had shifted more to the southeast and after raising the mainsail, we were able to fall off and enter the Great Wicomico. The wind had also gusted up to 20 knots sustained, so we unrolled a little of the jib to ease the weather helm.

My sailboat is only 26 feet, but she has a full keel and balancing the sails is necessary for her to sail well. Additionally, tacking her can be a chore. Done well, it looks effortless, while done wrong it’s like watching Napoleon Dynamite dance.

• It was GREAT sailing! With no more than 120 SQFT of sail up, her top speed that day was 5.2 knots and we kept her above 4 knots most of the time. Her water line length (LWL) is 21.25 feet, so as a full keel, displacement boat, her hull speed should be around 6.1 knots. In short, we were flying!
• We were also cold! More layers and potentially a thermos filled with coffee or soup would have come in handy.

After the cold got too much for us, we headed back to Cockrell Creek. At the entrance we rounded up into the wind, rolled up the jib, then fell off and sailed her back to the dock with the wind on the quarter. All in all, a good day and one that I hope to repeat.

Ref: Chart 12225. Office of the Coast Survey. Recovered from  National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration .

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Outstanding Orlando Boat Tours (2024)

Orlando boat tours are a fantastic activity in Central Florida, no matter the type of boating adventure you choose.

Some of the suggestions below are full-day tours, and others take mere hours. But all are a great way to spend your time in order to enjoy the Sunshine State’s beautiful scenery. And that could mean a wild ride in the Everglades or sailing sunset cruises on one of the Orlando area's attractive lakes.

We are sharing the best Orlando boat tours – private and group options – including scenic pontoon boat tours, airboat rides, kayaking, canoeing, sunset sails, and even boat rentals at Walt Disney World.

Disclosure: This post has affiliate links, meaning we may earn a small commission if you click the link and proceed with a purchase at no cost to you. We recommend experiences, hotels, products, and services we use and support. As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases.

• Book a sunset sailing tour in Orlando . It's our favorite type of boat tour, and Florida sunsets often show off for an audience!
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• See what to bring for Orlando boat tours so you are prepared to deal with the Florida bugs!

Orlando Airboat Rides 

One of the things Florida is most known for is its famous airboat tours. Sign up for this fun adventure whether you’re in Fort Lauderdale or Miami, within Everglades National Park, or Orlando on Shingle Creek, on the headwaters of the Florida Everglades. 

You won’t soon forget an exciting airboat ride when you visit the Orlando area, with a chance to see Bald Eagles and other endemic tropical birds, alligators, and crocodiles (maybe even a baby alligator). 

Airboat rides are particularly popular amongst nature lovers. These special boats allow you to glide on the unique marshes and swampland of the Central Florida area. We thoroughly enjoyed our Florida airboat experience. 

Sign up for a 90-minute fun and educational Orlando airboat tour to encounter the real Florida with experienced captains. Alternatively, secure your spot for a 1-hour sunset airboat tour and hope for one of Florida’s famous colorful sunsets. 

Most airboat tours take place rain or shine. Just in case, we recommend traveling to Florida with a poncho or thin raincoat of some sort. Be sure to check in for your tour at least 30 minutes before the experience. 

Orlando Boat Tour on an Airboat with Transportation

This tour includes pick up and drop off in Central Florida (including designated Disney World and Universal hotels), a BBQ lunch, a printed photo, and admission to their animal rescue Wildlife Park, where you can see birds, big cats, and reptiles. 

The entire experience – from transportation to the boat ride – lasts around 7 hours, including the drive to and from the Everglades area. The Florida Everglades are approximately 45 minutes to an hour's drive each way from Orlando. Choose from a 30-minute or 60-minute airboat ride when you book your experience . 

Orlando Sailing Tours 

How about enjoying Orlando’s lakes with wind power? Sailing tours are the perfect way to glide on the water. And a sunset sail is incredibly romantic, to boot! 

Private Morning Sail 

Set sail on a 2-hour private sailing tour, starting at 10:00 am. Adventure awaits on Lake Fairview for up to four guests. 

This area is just north of College Park near downtown Orlando and 15 minutes from Orlando’s Lieu Gardens. Don’t forget to bring towels if you want, though water is provided (and lakes are calm anyway, so you shouldn’t really get wet!).

Advanced reservations are required.

Private Lake Sunset Sail 

Sail on Lake Fairview, approximately 10 minutes from downtown Orlando, 30-35 minutes from the Disney theme parks (including the Disney Springs area), and 25 minutes from Universal. 

This 2-hour private Orlando boat tour can fit up to four people, and they allow you to bring your own snacks and beverages onboard. We recommend bringing a bottle of wine or champagne! 

We recommend bringing along a wine tumbler set for your sailboat adventure! 

Kayaking Tours

Connect with nature from the comfort of a kayak and get in some exercise too. Orlando boat tour options for kayaking are plentiful. 

Kayak with Manatees

Head 45 minutes north of Orlando for your chance to kayak with manatees! These cute and friendly mammals are famous in the Sunshine State, where they come to enjoy the warm water for the winter. 

Whether you’re a novice kayaking trying it for the first time, or an experienced pro, this tour is for you if you want to see a plethora of wildlife. 

Check out this popular tour with 5-star reviews

Glass Bottom Boat Kayak Tours

If you want to see the fish below the water’s surface without snorkeling, sign up for a glass-bottom kayak tour. See through the bottom of the boat on this Orlando boat tour and have the chance to view the colorful fish and marine plant life beneath you. 

Try a Rock Springs guided kayak eco-tour as you glide on the crystal-clear water for two hours. You’ll learn about the local ecosystem, stop for photos, and have the opportunity to swim in the springs. Opt to jump into the water from a rope swing for a thrill during this adventure. 

You can also opt for a sunset tour in a glass-bottom kayak . Paddle through the Winter Park Chain of Lakes and canals in a peaceful setting. Your knowledgeable guide will point out interesting nature homes along the way and share some history of the area. You’ll also be able to stop for photos where you like! 

This tour is likely to sell out: Reserve Now

Winter Park Evening Clear Kayak Glow in the Dark Tour

If you want to add a fun element to your kayaking adventure, sign up for a Winter Park kayak tour at night with a glow-in-the-dark kayak. The boats are illuminated with nighttime lighting!

They will surely be a good photo opp and fun outing as the lights make the water beneath you glow. 

Another great option is this Neon Night Glow Paddleboard or Clear Kayak experience on Lake Ivanhoe.

This unique boat tour allows you to see Orlando’s skyline at night as you paddle along with the help of your guides, the moonlight, and the colorful lights beneath your kayak or paddleboard.  

Winter Park Scenic Boat Tour

One of our favorite Orlando boat tours is in Winter Park. It was established in the 1930s, decades before Walt Disney World opened in Lake Buena Vista.

This pontoon boat tour starts near the well-known Park Avenue area. Set out on your scenic cruise from Lake Osceola to the Winter Park Chain of Lakes as your guide takes you through the manmade canals.

Sail past stunning homes in Winter Park, where you will have breathtaking views of the opulent private homes in the area (which is one of the reasons we enjoy the boat tour).

You will have a chance to see wonderful some of Florida’s beautiful birds, like Blue Herons and large cranes, as you travel on several lakes. 

Each boat holds a maximum of 18 passengers. Be sure to bring cash or a check to buy your tickets because credit cards are not accepted. We advise purchasing tickets in the morning on weekends, even if you plan on going later in the day. It’s a very popular tour, and tickets often sell out quickly. 

Winter Park Scenic Boat Tour is closed on Christmas Day. Otherwise, tours leave daily on the hour, starting at 10:00 am. The last tour is at 4:00 pm. 

Day Trip Boat Tours from Orlando

While the Orlando boat tours listed above are within 30 minutes, on average, from Orlando, it’s worth mentioning there are more boat tour options nearby within a 2-hour drive. Here are some additional Central Florida boat tour options. 

Mount Dora Lake Tours

One of our favorite destinations from Central Florida is 45 minutes north: the quaint town of Mount Dora . There’s so much to see and do there in the afternoon or morning; a boat tour is the best way to extend your trip to a whole day. 

Take a 2-hour pontoon boat tour with a departure point at the historic hotel, the Lakeside Inn. Enjoy your leisurely cruise around Lake Dora and The Harris Chain of Lakes, including the famed Dora Canal.

The all-weather 25’ boats can cruise rain or shine thanks to their retractable clear covers for the sides of the boat. Choose from one of two daytime tours, or their third option to cruise during sunset. 

Clearwater Beach with Dolphin Encounter Cruise

This 12-hour full-day tour begins with pick-up at 7:30 am. You’ll head west of Orlando to the popular Florida destination (Clearwater Beach), where you will take a cruise to encounter bottlenose dolphins in their natural habitat. 

While this means that you aren’t guaranteed to spot dolphins, your tour guide will do his or her very best to find them. You may see these beautiful mammals up close by the boat or further in the distance if they appear in the ocean. Part of the fun is the anticipation. 

A one-hour dolphin tour boat ride is sandwiched between hours of free time on a Gulf Coast beach. For only $10 more, you can purchase a wristband for the boat ride that allows you to have unlimited beer, wine, and vodka punch. 

Pickup and drop off are included at one of three major locations of your choice (Disney areas included). This means that all you have to do is sign up for the tour and be at that location for pick-up time. 

Choose from the three pick-up locations listed below:

• Walt Disney World area, on Epcot Resorts Blvd. (northern area of the parks) 
• Walt Disney World area, at Maingate Lakeside Resort in Kissimmee (area of the Disney World theme parks that is further south) 
• International Drive (close to Universal) at Senor Frogs

Clear Canoe Boat Tour Near Orlando at Silver Springs

This clear canoe boat tour is approximately halfway between Orlando and Gainesville at Silver Springs. The drive is approximately an hour and 45 minutes from downtown Orlando. 

You’ll do a self-guided tour after the kayak company representative meets you and gives you a laminated map and some brief instructions. Paddle near Cypress Trees and see turtles, ducks, birds, and a chance to see manatees during the winter season, when they swim to Florida’s warm waters.

Dan and I often like to explore an area freely, on our own. Maybe you’re the same way! If so, this is a great tour for you in the Orlando area, as long as you can rent a car to get to the meeting point or take a taxi/Uber or Lyft there. 

Orlando Boat Tours at Walt Disney World

Did you know that you can rent motorized boats at Disney World? It’s one of the best things to do at Walt Disney World, besides the parks. 

Rent a Sun Tracker® Pontoon boat by the half-hour for up to 10 people. You can also opt to kayak or canoe from Fort Wilderness by the hour. 

One of the most singular boat tours in Orlando, or perhaps anywhere, is an Amphicar boat tour. Be a passenger and the envy of all onlookers in a cool convertible car that drives right into the water. This experience is available at Disney Springs restaurant, The Boathouse.

Lastly, you can book a specialty cruise to see the fireworks. You don’t even have to be a hotel guest to do so! Snacks and soft drinks are included in a memorable cruise on a 25’ boat. 

You can also request ​​for a festive banner and/or balloons to be set up on the boat, which is included in the cost (request at the time of booking). It’s a great thing to do for you and your partner or up to 10 guests total, whether a proposal, anniversary treat, or family reunion. 

What to Bring for Orlando Boat Tours

Florida's heat can be brutal, depending on the time of year. No matter the month, you definitely need to protect your skin from the sun. The sun in FL is strong, year-round. 

Be sure to pack the following if you’ll be on the water in sunny Florida: 

• Refillable water bottle (the ice will stay intact for hours in the MiiR bottle, our favorite insulated wide-mouth bottle) 
• Reef-safe sunscreen
• SPF lip balm
• Eco-friendly bathing suit 
• Rash guard 

Conclusion for Best Orlando Boat Tours

Whether you want to captain a boat yourself, row your way through Florida’s waters in a kayak, see gators on an educational airboat ride, or go on a romantic sailboat cruise around one of Central Florida’s lakes, an Orlando boat is a wonderful Florida activity. 

It will connect you with nature, get you out in fresh air, and allow your body to absorb vitamin D in the Florida sunshine. Sign up for an Orlando boat tour and explore this southern state in a unique and adventurous way. 

Read this next:

• 40 Awesome Things Florida is Known For
• 30 Things to Do at Walt Disney World Besides the Parks
• Kennedy Space Center Tickets: Helpful Info for a Successful Visit

The post Outstanding Orlando Boat Tours (2024) appeared first on Sometimes Home: Couples Travel .

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Starmer defends cutting winter fuel payments

Sir Keir Starmer has defended scrapping winter fuel payments for millions of pensioners, saying his government had to take "tough decisions to stabilise the economy".

During Prime Minister's Questions, Conservative leader Rishi Sunak accused Sir Keir of choosing to fund "inflation-busting pay rises" for train drivers over support for vulnerable pensioners.

But the PM blamed the Tories for leaving a "£22bn black hole" in the public finances.

From this autumn, older people in England and Wales not on pension credit or other means-tested benefits will no longer get annual winter fuel payments, worth between £100 and £300.

Help with energy bills urged for struggling pensioners

How much are gas and electricity bills going up this winter.

The government is facing growing pressure from opposition parties to reverse the decision , with some Labour MPs also raising concerns about the impact on low-income pensioners.

Last month the government offered train drivers an above-inflation pay rise aimed at ending long-running strike action.

Mr Sunak told the House of Commons: "Government is about making choices, and the new prime minister has made a choice.

"[Sir Keir] has chosen to take the winter fuel allowance away from low-income pensioners and give that money to certain unionised workforces in inflation-busting pay rises.

"So can I just ask the prime minister, why did he choose train drivers over Britain's vulnerable pensioners?"

In response, Sir Keir said: "This government was elected to clear up the mess left by the party opposite, to bring about the change that the country desperately needs. Our first job was to audit the books, and what we found was a £22bn black hole."

He added: "So we've had to take tough decisions to stabilise the economy and repair the damage, including targeting winter fuel payments whilst protecting pensioners."

Hitting back, Mr Sunak said the new government had inherited a growing economy, with inflation back at the target rate.

He called on the PM to "start taking responsibility for his own decision".

"It was his decision and his decision alone, to award a train driver on £65,000 a pay rise of almost £10,000, and it was also his decision that a pensioner living on just £13,000 will have their winter fuel allowance removed," he added.

Defending the government's pay offers to end strike action, Sir Keir said: "You cannot fix the economy if the trains don't work and you can't fix the economy if the NHS isn't working."

Sir Keir was also challenged over the decision by Liberal Democrat leader Sir Ed Davey, who urged the PM to reverse the planned cut.

He raised the example of a carer called Norman, who had returned to work so he could afford to pay for the care of his wife, who has Alzheimer's disease and multiple sclerosis.

Sir Ed said this meant Norman was now just above the limit to be eligible for pension credit so was set to lose his winter fuel allowance.

Sir Keir said he was "not pretending it's not a difficult decision" but insisted the government was providing all the support it could for pensioners.

The PM highlighted the government's campaign to encourage more people to claim pension credit , so those eligible also qualify for winter fuel payments.

Meanwhile, he said the government's commitment to the triple lock - which ensures the state pension increases each year by the highest figure of 2.5%, inflation or average earnings - meant pensions were expected to rise by up to £1,000 over the next five years.

What is the state pension triple lock and what is it worth?

State pension to rise by over £400 next year.

Given Labour's huge majority in the Commons, the government is likely to win any vote on the issue comfortably.

However, a handful of Labour MPs have publicly raised concerns about the impact on pensioners just above the threshold for claiming pension credit.

Rachael Maskell, the Labour MP for York Central, told BBC Newsnight she could not vote in support of the move, arguing it would put some pensioners at risk of harm.

She called on the government to put in place mitigations to protect the most vulnerable and ensure they can keep warm over the winter.

Ms Maskell is among eight Labour MPs backing a motion calling for the cut to be postponed to establish "a comprehensive strategy to tackle fuel poverty, health inequality and low incomes among older people".

Five independent MPs, who were suspended from the parliamentary Labour Party in July after voting against the government to call for the two-child benefit cap to be scrapped, have also signed the motion.

Politics latest: Starmer accidentally calls Sunak PM again - as he's accused of 'choosing train drivers over pensioners'

Sir Keir Starmer came under attack for his decision to cut the winter fuel payment while agreeing to public sector pay deals as he faced Rishi Sunak at PMQs.

Wednesday 4 September 2024 14:30, UK

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• 'It should never have happened': PM apologises to Grenfell families
• Tap here for live updates from damning report into fire
• PM accused of 'choosing train drivers over pensioners'
• Starmer accidentally calls Sunak 'prime minister' - twice
• Tamara Cohen: Two big controversies at heart of today's PMQs
• Tory leadership candidates to be cut by at least one today
• Live reporting by Faith Ridler

Politics Hub With Sophy Ridge highlights

• 'Just wrong': Chancellor under pressure on winter fuel cut
• Watch: Most of the cabinet 'not over the moon' with decision
• Sophy Ridge: Things are depressing - but it may be part of the plan
• Watch live Monday-Thursday at 7pm here and on Sky News

Explained: Our latest essential guides

• Labour's plan to stop the boats
• Who's running to be Tory leader
• Tax rises: What might go up | How council tax could change | What chancellor could do to pensions

The first PMQs of the new parliamentary term nudged our regular lunchtime bulletin back a few hours.

Here's what you need to know:

• Sir Keir Starmer has apologised on behalf of the government to families of those who died in the Grenfell fire seven years ago;
• "It should never have happened," said the prime minister after a damning final report into the tragedy exposed a series of failings by builders, regulators, and the government;
• Sir Keir said unsafe cladding was still being removed from other impacted buildings "far too slowly" .
• Sir Keir's Grenfell statement came after PMQs, where Rishi Sunak attacked him for cutting the winter fuel payment for millions of people ;
• The PM was accused of "choosing train drivers over pensioners" by making the cut after agreeing public sector pay deals;
• Our political correspondent Tamara Cohen said that was one of two big controversies the PM was challenged on - the other being his decision to suspend some arms licences to Israel;
• And not for the first time, Sir Keir accidentally referred to Mr Sunak as the prime minister .
• Speaking of Mr Sunak, the contest to replace him as Tory leader will see candidates whittled down from six today;
• MPs are voting on who should go through to the next round, with at least one being booted out of the race - possibly two .

That's all for now - we'll bring you the result of the Tory leadership vote around 3.30pm and then Politics Hub With Sophy Ridge at 7pm .

Tuesday's tragedy in the Channel, which saw children among at least 12 people killed after a small boat sank, highlighted how this complex challenge for both British and French authorities isn't going anywhere.

Within hours, Sky News witnessed more boats trying to make the same journey from France to Britain.

The chart below shows how the number of crossings in 2024 so far compares with the previous four years.

Our data and forensics team have also looked into how many people are cramming into these vessels, many of which are clearly unseaworthy.

The chart below shows four times as many people are in each boat on average compared with 2020.

Complaints about fraud and scams have reached a six-year high, with half about bank transfers, according to the Financial Ombudsman Service (FOS).

Consumers lodged 8,734 cases between 1 April and 30 June, said the service - which resolves disputes between consumers and financial firms.

This represents a 43% increase on the same period in 2023. The quarterly figures are also the highest since the FOS started tracking data in 2018.

The FOS blamed several factors for the rise including:

• Growth in investment scams on social media where fraudsters demand payment by credit or debit card
• Consumers making multiple claims as funds pass through several banks before reaching the fraudster
• More online fraud cases being handled by companies who manage claims for consumers

Pat Hurley, ombudsman director for banking, said: "Fraudsters' methods are always evolving, and we continue to see that reflected in the complaints brought to our service."

Tory MPs can now vote on which of the six candidates they would like to become the next leader of the party.

They have until 3pm, with results expected at 3.30pm.

At least one of the six candidates will be booted out of the race, with another expected to leave before the Conservative Party conference begins later this month.

After this, a hustings will be held, when MPs will vote again to narrow the field to two candidates.

The party's wider membership will then vote, with the winner announced on 2 November.

The six candidates for Conservative leader are:

• James Cleverly
• Robert Jenrick
• Tom Tugendhat
• Kemi Badenoch
• Priti Patel

Today's PMQs was dominated by two big controversies for the new Labour government.

One was its decision to axe winter fuel payments for millions of pensioners, which some Labour MPs as well as opposition parties and charities have criticised.

Rishi Sunak accused him of putting train drivers above pensioners after agreeing pay deals with their union, Aslef.

The other was the suspension of some arms licences to Israel.

There was a cheer from Labour's large contingent of backbenchers when Sir Keir Starmer said his party is "committed to the rule of law" when it comes to selling arms to Israel.

The PM tries to sound dispassionate, saying this was based on a legal review, under 2021 guidelines drawn up by the previous government. 

His critics suspect it was also informed by backbench pressure. 

On winter fuel payments, Sir Keir has allowed his MPs a vote on the decision next week, and a rebellion is unlikely to be significant.

But the PM's answer to Ed Davey about pensioners who are not receiving pension credit also missing out on their allowance, shows that reassurance on this point will be needed. 

Theresa May, who was prime minister at the time of the Grenfell disaster in 2017 and announced the full inquiry the day after, has given her reaction to today's report.

She calls on national and local government, regulators, and industry to all "acknowledge their part in the history and series of events that led to this tragedy".

Tragedy 'beyond our imagining'

Baroness May says the report is a "significant step in providing the Grenfell community with the answers they deserve", and it is now known that all 72 deaths were "avoidable". 

"I know that, while necessary, the inquiry process can be immensely distressing for all those involved," she adds. 

"I would like to pay tribute to the bereaved families and the survivors for the dignity they have shown in the face of a tragedy so extreme, it is beyond our imagining." 

Sir Keir Starmer has admitted the families involved in the Grenfell Fire tragedy have been "let down so badly".

Addressing the Commons, Sir Keir apologises on behalf of the British state to "all of the families affected by this tragedy".

"It should never have happened."

The prime minister describes today as a "long awaited day of truth" that must lead to a "day of justice".

"This tragedy poses fundamental questions about the kind of country we are. A country where the voices of working class people and those of colour have been repeatedly ignored and dismissed.

"A country where tenants in a social housing block in one of the richest parts of the land are treated like second class citizens, shamefully dismissed."

'This must be a moment of change'

Sir Keir says the government will respond to the inquiry's findings "in full" within the next six months.

He says the speed that unsafe cladding is being addressed is "far, far too slow", mentioning a fire at an apartment block in Dagenham last week.

"This must be a moment of change," he says, adding Labour will take the "necessary steps to speed this up."

Rishi Sunak said he wished to "associate myself and the Conservatives with the prime minister's powerful words".

He paid tribute to the "tenacity and strength" of bereaved families for having brought the truth to light.

Sir Keir Starmer is giving a statement on the publication of the final report from the Grenfell Tower inquiry.

You can watch live in the stream above.

For minute-by-minute updates, head to our dedicated live blog below, and we'll have a summing up post in the Politics Hub.

Oasis ticket hikes are "depressing" and demand government action, the PM says. 

By wading into an area some will say should be up to the ticket sites, Sir Keir Starmer has committed to what is likely to be a difficult market intervention.

The PM says he agrees with Labour MP Emma Foody that "fans should be at the heart of live music" and "urgent action" should be taken to protect them from "horrid profiteering".

Starmer says "it's great that Oasis are back together" for their reunion tour, and a consultation will look at how to end "extortionate" pricing. 

It will be months before it's clear what action the government are considering - and how ticket sites will respond. 

Pete Wishart is up next, accusing Sir Keir Starmer of only having one thing to offer the British people: "Things can only get worse."

The SNP MP asks why the prime minister thinks he has had such an "unprecedented fall in his popularity".

"Is it because his austerity is even worse than the Conservative variety?"

Sir Keir says: "There's very few of them, so I don't think we need lectures on popularity from the SNP."

A reminder they are no longer the third-largest party at Westminster after losing dozens of MPs at the election.

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