best sailboat head

5 Types of Marine Heads: Which is Better?

If you have ever been on a train, airplane, or other forms of public transportation and had to use the bathroom, your nostrils have probably never forgiven you for the experience. In addition, your elbows may still be calloused from smacking up against the sides every time you had to make a minor adjustment.

Unfortunately, this had been a reality for sailors and boat passengers for far too long. Thankfully, sanitation standards and new head technology has made going to the bathroom pleasurable again.

That said, I hope to flush out the old perceptions of shipboard potties. This article aims to inform you of the different types of marine heads you can pick from when choosing a bathroom package for your new boat or if trying to decide on a replacement for your older vessel’s sanitation system.

Table of Contents

What Is A Marine Head?

Different types of marine heads, marine sanitation laws to be aware of, quick tips for using a marine head.

If you haven’t guessed it already, a head is a mariners term for the bathroom. The word derived from sailing vessels of times past when the crew’s nature center was towards the bow (front) or the head of the ship for strategic cleaning purposes.

I’m going to spare you the details of how sailors in the past flushed away or discharged their waste. Instead, I would like to have us explore the different types of marine heads together and discuss how each of them works.

The 5 Types Of Marine Heads include:

• Porta-Potti
• Manual Head
• Electric Head
• Vacuum Head
• Composting Head

1. Porta-Potti

You have likely seen or even used some model of the Porta-Potti, whether when passing a construction zone or attending a more significant public event outdoors like a state or county fair.

In any case, the Porta-Potti is a comfortable, durable, and self-contained toilet that is entirely portable-requiring no permanent plumbing system.

Porta-Potties are an excellent option for cabinless boats that do not have the allocated space for a fully installed sanitation system. You should consider investing in this useful tag-a-long accessory if you own a smaller fishing or recreational boat and plan on being out on the water for the majority of the day.

The Porta-Potti 145 is Thetfords medium-size portable toilet fit with a bellow pump and capable of holding up to 12 liters of waste. You can easily find one of these toilets for less than seventy-five bucks, which is worth the investment.

Thetford offers luxury models in their portable toilet line-up with a range of different flushing options. However, remember that you will have to physically empty the contents within the holding tank once back on dry land.

Although it sounds like a reasonably unpleasant job, if you follow the manufacturer’s instructions, nothing should poop up the process.

2. Manual Head

The next tier above the Porta-Pottie is the manual head. As the name implies, you utilize a hand pump to draw up water (post-use) and flush down the generated waste into a holding tank.

There are many different size holding tanks available; however, the most suitable size for your bathroom setup depends on several factors:

• the space you have available on your boat
• boat capacity (a manual head system adds at least 25 pounds of weight to your boat)
• how many passengers are on board, and
• the time you plan on being away from a marina

The physics being operating a manual head is pretty straightforward. Still, some preferred techniques to implement to ensure your sanitation system maintains clean and clog-free lines (and odor-free is always lovely too).

PRO-TIP: David Schmidt, from CruisingWorld, suggests, “users pump a small amount of water into the bowl, complete their business as normal, and then flush by first flipping a selector switch (typically mounted by the pump), and pumping the handle to drain the bowl.”

Manual heads do not require power and are reasonably easy to maintain and repair, even while out at sea. In addition, manual head systems are usually the least expensive option next to portable toilets.

Remember, you will empty your manual head’s storage tank at your closest marina’s pump-out facility. Consider ABSCO as your trusted manufacturer of manual marine heads.

3. Electric Heads

We all like the convenience of controlling something by the press of a button- an electrical head utilizes power to drive waste down into your sanitation systems holding tank after performing your duties at sea.

Running an electric head off a separate circuit would be wise; each flush will use a brief load burst of approximately 20 to 30 amps. So you may want to still store a Porta-Pottie somewhere on board in case you lose power while out at sea.

One excellent feature that comes standard with most electric heads is a macerator that works to prevent clogs- a group of blades that shred up waste before passing through the boat’s sanitation system lines.

Though manufacturers are constantly seeking ways to improve electric heads, they are notably loud and more challenging to maintain due to having more moving parts than more basic marine head types .

4. Vacuum Heads

Vacuum heads also utilize power to operate the systems vacuum pump activated upon flushing the toilet. Typically, the vacuum pump will remain on until the system repressurizes and automatically s off (about one minute).

Vacuum heads clean out the toilet’s contents with freshwater, sucking down waste up to speeds of seven feet per second.

Vacuum heads are a preferable sanitation system to consider if you upgrade your boat’s outdated mechanical toilet. To install one of these systems on your boat, you need three main parts:

• a vacuum pump and accumulator, and
• a holding tank

VacuFlush is an industry leader for these types of marine heads.

5. Composting Head

There is no better alternative for the most environmentally conscious than the composting head. Typically composting heads have two chambers: one for liquids and one for solids.

Nature’s Head is likely the most popular solution for outdoor enthusiasts and naturalists, no matter if you live aboard a vessel or out in a small cabin in the woods.

As a sailor, you will be happy to hear that this particular brand is also USCG certified. In addition, composting toilets eliminate the need for electric power and give you back that precious storage space you surrendered for installing the holding tank on your older sanitation system.

With composting toilets, you save on weight, space, complicated mechanics and get to skip out on waiting in line at the marina pump-out station as well.

The process is pretty simple- you go to the bathroom and let nature take care of the rest. Then, you sprinkle some peat moss into the solid waste chamber. As it sits, a natural healing process occurs, which eradicates dangerous bacteria.

In the end, the only remains of your waste will be a blackened powder that you must dispose of onshore or use as a sustainable fertilizer for non-edible garden landscaping.

Suppose you choose a permanently installed marine head for your boat. In that case, you must comply with various USCG regulations that regulate disposal and discharge procedures to protect the environment and others.

The Environmental Protection Agency establishes No Discharge Zones where discharged waste is prohibited. You can see a list of the No-Discharge Zones (NDZs) by State here. In addition, you cannot discharge treated or untreated waste in freshwater lakes and some rivers.

Be sure not to discharge waste within three miles from shore unless it has been treated by “U.S. Coast Guard-approved Type I or Type II MSD. Alternatively, sewage may be stored onboard in a holding tank (Type III MSD).”

If you have any doubts, don’t hesitate to get in touch with the United States Coast Guard or contact your region’s EPA Ambassador for more information.

• Although permanently installed sanitation systems can generally use freshwater or saltwater for flushes, experts recommend freshwater. Freshwater flushes help control odor by eliminating any interaction between your waste and tiny marine organisms.
• Use biodegradable toilet paper and refrain from flushing any other foreign objects down the toilet- Keep It Natural, so you don’t have to deal with the nasty job of clearing out clogs.
• Stick to marine-only cleaning chemicals and other additives. House products can significantly reduce the lifespan of plastics, seals, and other marine head hardware . If you decide on revamping your vessel’s bathroom with a composting toilet, remember only to use organic sphagnum peat moss.
• Schedule a regular cleaning and maintenance program for your marine head. Stick to your manufacturer’s guidelines and only treat or clean with approved products.
• Use It But Don’t Abuse It- the best way to ensure a marine head that lasts.

Investing in the most suitable marine head involves considering several factors, including an individual’s sustainability index, available onboard space, and intended boat use (extended trips vs. a couple of hours out at the lake).

As you think about your boat’s capacity and sanitation needs, please do not hesitate to leave any questions or concerns you may have in the comment section below.

Joseph Fabiano is a writer, nature enthusiast, and stay-at-home father of two wild and free boys. He enjoys starting his day with a good run, hot mug of coffee, and a jump in the Ionian Sea, no matter the weather. Currently based in the Apuglia region of southern Italy, he enjoys discovering the world with his best traveling buddies (his little monkey’s and beautiful wife) at every given opportunity. Every trip, long or far, should be made an adventure according to Joseph as he believes inspiration and creation is right in front of you.

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The Lowdown on Headsail Options

March 8, 2022

Having the right headsail for the job is important. In this article, Quantum experts break down the different headsails that may make up your sail inventory.  

Many factors determine the best headsail inventory for you: the type of sailing you do, the conditions you typically sail in, and the design, size, and shape of your boat. You’ll also need a mix of sails that can perform at upwind, reaching, and downwind angles. Upwind sails optimize lift at the tightest angles to the wind; reaching sails optimize driving force across the wind; and downwind sails optimize drive when in “push mode.” Understanding how air flows across the sails helps to explain why sails are cut and sized differently for those angles and will help to inform the best usage of each headsail. 

Most boats won’t have all the headsails listed in this article, and inventories can differ drastically from boat to boat. While we’re focused on headsails for racing in this article, whether you’re a racer or a cruiser, understanding the differences in headsails will help you optimize your inventory for the kind of sailing you do. 

Upwind Headsails 

The ability to create lift through efficient sail shape is paramount for an upwind headsail. As with the mainsail, lift is generated when the camber, or curve of the sail, creates smooth but differing air flow speed on the windward and leeward sides of the sail. In different apparent wind speeds and angles, different sail sizes and shapes are needed to keep the boat at its optimal angle of heel and speed. As a rule of thumb, deeper sails create a driving force that is more aft (lower lift/drag ratio), and flatter sails create a driving force that is angled closer to the wind (higher lift/drag ratio). All sails create some drag that pulls the yacht sideways that the keel must counter. The ability to balance side force versus driving force is the secret to a well-designed sail.

Upwind headsails go through a narrow range of apparent wind angles, but they see the greatest change in apparent wind speed of any of the sails. Because of this change, what works best in five knots of wind speed will not be your best sail option in 25 knots of wind speed. When racing, upwind headsails are limited in area to keep a yacht’s handicap rating from becoming too high. For this reason, in lighter winds they don’t make good reaching sails. When rating isn’t in play, you can combine a few upwind and reaching sails for better performance. In a perfect world, yachts would have multiple rigs, much like windsurfers or 18-foot skiffs, and these rigs would have sails that are appropriately sized with depths for optimum performance in a given wind speed. But we don’t live (or sail) in a perfect world, so all yachts go through a transition upwind from being underpowered to having too much sail area. You will need to find ways to increase power with smaller sails and then reduce sail. The ability to change headsails is the most efficient way to accomplish this. 

If your headsail is large enough to overlap part of the mainsail, it is classified as a genoa. Light genoas, or G1s and Number 1s, are designed to be deep and powerful in lighter winds to maximize drive, even at the expense of added drag and side force. Similar to a Number 1 genoa, the lighter jibs are designed to produce as much power as possible. But as the wind increases, these sails become overly powerful and create too much side force, and you will need to flatten the sails. Your J2 or medium jib/genoa will still give you an efficient sail shape at maximum area. Once the wind speed increases, you cannot flatten a sail enough while maintaining efficiency, so you must reduce sail area. Some yachts will have several heavy air specialty sails that get smaller and smaller, though most yachts with genoas will switch to J3, J3.5, J4, and J5 jibs. As the numbers increase, the sail size decreases.

A note on cruising upwind headsails:  A typical upwind cruising headsail inventory may contain a J1, J2, and J3, or more frequently, only one upwind headsail, which makes sense since cruisers are often sailing short-handed or with crew who have a mixed bag of skill levels. Cruisers tend to rely more on furling to depower rather than switching to a smaller or flatter sail. For this reason, cruising sails are designed with furling in mind so sails can perform up-range yet still maintain desired sail shape and performance when furled. Stay tuned for a follow-up article that shares information on headsails designed for cruising.

Reaching Sails

When sailing upwind or downwind, you can find an optimal angle that balances speed with velocity made good (VMG), but when reaching you want to go as fast as possible across the wind toward your next mark or waypoint. Therefore, reaching sails must be designed and built to accommodate for this difference. One similarity reaching sails have with upwind headsails is that they transition quickly from not having enough power to having too much power as the wind speed increases. Reaching sails also see a variety of both apparent wind angles and apparent wind speeds. In some wind speeds, a spinnaker can work for reaching, but the boat will perform better at that angle if you change the area and shape of the sail. Many asymmetrical spinnakers will also overpower you in heavier air at reaching angles.

While we prefer to use specialty reaching sails, some racing rules require only jibs or asymmetrical spinnakers. The problem with using downwind sails while reaching is related to materials, loads, and apparent wind angles. New materials aren't as fragile as they once were but reaching with sails not designed for the increased loads of sailing at these angles can be problematic. There is so much corner load when reaching that sails built for reaching need to be reinforced with stronger materials. As you start to reach closer to the wind direction, your apparent wind speed increases rapidly. This also increases the heeling movement sails produce, which is typically the limiting factor in determining which reaching sail you can use. Unlike headsails that you can luff, a free-flying headsail such as an asymmetric spinnaker will just flap if you try to sail it too high. If you could fill the sail, it would generate too much side force because it is optimized to drag a yacht downwind. When reaching, we want a sail that is more wing-shaped and can drive the yacht forward, not backward. 

CODE ZEROS/AWA 40, AWA 60, AWA 80

A solution to the materials, loads, and apparent wind angles equation lies with specialty reaching sails. Often referred to as code zeros or AWA sails , these sails are designed to cover a wide range of reaching angles. While classified under most rating rules as a spinnaker or downwind sail, codes and AWAs are flat enough to handle points of sail closer to the wind without excessive drag. Because of their wide range of angles, AWAs and code zeros are a useful tool for bridging the gap between downwind and upwind sails. AWA sails and code zeros are often used in both racing and cruising inventories . There are also plenty of other specialty reaching headsail options such as wind seekers, jib top reachers, blast reachers, genoa staysails, and spinnaker staysails that can be used to complement code zeros, AWA sails, and spinnakers. These sails are typically used in larger racing inventories.

Downwind Sails

Downwind headsails are generally made for “push mode,” meaning they’re built with more curve to enhance driving force when sailing with the breeze. Downwind symmetrical kites can sail deep angles as the wind is meant to flow into them and then separate and create as much drag as possible, unlike asymmetrical kites that, similar to reaching sails, allow the wind to flow across the sail to create more lift. 

ASYMMETRICAL KITES

Now we’re focusing on yachts carrying asymmetrical kites. A downwind sail’s main purpose is to allow a yacht to sail its optimal VMG angle downwind as fast as possible. Like upwind sails, the area of the sail will be limited when racing ratings are in play to achieve a more favorable rating. A larger kite will go faster downwind until its geometry becomes too deep and wide. Yachts are usually rated for the optimal area for lighter air kites. Heavier air kites are sometimes slightly smaller than you would make in absence of any rules because most yachts spend the majority of their time racing in 12 knots or less. In lighter winds, the best wind angle will always be to sail higher than dead downwind to increase apparent wind speed, which allows the yacht to transfer as much kinetic energy from the wind as possible. By sailing higher angles in lighter wind, you can double your apparent wind speed and increase the power your yacht harnesses from the wind by almost four times while sailing only 15 percent more distance. 

As your apparent wind speed increases and your sail angles tighten, your apparent wind angle decreases. Lighter air kites made of lighter cloth and flatter shapes operate in narrower apparent wind angles and have less apparent wind speed than heavy air kites. As you sail wider angles, optimum depth for your kite increases as the wider apparent wind angle acts to push the yacht, making a deeper sail more efficient. Lighter yachts that sail across the wind because they can sail faster speeds tend to have flatter kites compared to yachts that are heavier and sail more directly downwind.

DETERMINING HEADSAIL OPTIONS

Many factors go into selecting the perfect headsail, among them rig type, typical conditions, typical wind range, type of sailing, and racing ratings. Take time to assess these variables and what types of headsails will best serve you upwind, downwind, and reaching. If you have questions or would like help making a sail plan, give your local loft a call. Quantum experts can expand on any of the headsails in this article and help determine where the gaps in your inventory may be. But be prepared: You might discover your new secret weapon!

The Discussion

You mention both Code Zeros and Blast Reachers in this article but not Jib Tops. Have Code Zeros effectively replaced the need for Jib Top sails on boats with overlapping headsails in reaching conditions or is there still a roll for Jib Tops?

Blast Reacher and Jib Top are interchangeable for all practical purposes. Rarely do yachts these days have both sails. In the past, they may have had a 155% LP Jib Top and a 110% LP Blast Reacher. These days, esp with most yachts having non-overlapping sails, they have one reacher, which is called either the JT or the BR. This means to me that a Jib Top (155%) may still be applicable to an overlapping headsail sailplan in lighter/moderate winds and a blast reacher used in heavier air. The big difference is that a JT would not be in the inventory of a non-overlapping headsail inventory. Beacuse Chris's article was referencing the non-overlapping sailplan the JT was left out. I hope that answers your questions. If I can help further you can reach me at [email protected]. Thanks for the feedback on the article.

Thank you for the information. Trying to understand where is the different between headsail to code zero and Aso. Blast reacher can seem as mini code zero. Which rule will determine and differ between the two sails? Thank you in advance for your answer. Yehuda

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Installing a Head

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The apparent complication of marine toilet installations today can have you reexamining the merits of a cedar bucket. Here is some help.

Direct Discharge

The least complicated configuration has the head's inlet connected to a 3/4-inch through-hull and the outlet to a 1 1/2-inch through-hull. But direct discharge of untreated sewage into the coastal and inland waters of the United States has been illegal since 1972. If your head discharge hose is connected directly and only to a through-hull fitting, you are long overdue for corrective measures.

Holding Tank

A holding tank is the most common means of compliance with discharge laws. A holding tank has the advantage of being the only sewage handling method universally acceptable to all governing authorities, and it adds the least complication to sewage handling.

A holding tank does not require any change to the head's inlet connection. In fact, the inlet connection is the same for all head configurations detailed here. Use heavy-duty suction hose between the inlet fitting on the head and the through-hull; this need not be sanitation hose since sewage does not pass through it. Secure both connections with dual hose clamps.

If possible, the inlet through-hull should be on the opposite side of the keel from the discharge. If they must be on the same side, the inlet should be forward of and as far from the discharge as practical. A head inlet should not share a through-hull with any other inlet connection, but it can be teed off a discharge line — a sink or cockpit drain, for example — provided they are forward or on the opposite side of the keel from the head discharge.

Coastal Use

If your boat never leaves inland or coastal waters, connecting the head directly to the tank is your only legal option. The tank itself will require two additional connections, one to a pump-out fitting on deck and the other to an outside vent fitting to prevent a build-up of explosive gas inside the tank.

All three of these hoses must be sanitation hose to resist gas permeation. Using the wrong hose on the discharge side of the toilet is the primary cause of smelly head compartments. Check existing hoses by wiping them with a clean, damp rag, then sniffing the rag. If it stinks, replace the hose.

Offshore Use

Beyond the three mile limit, direct discharge is legal, and unless an offshore boat is equipped with an onboard treatment system, it is also unavoidable. Happily, the oceans are more than capable of handling the excrement of blue-water sailors without ill effect.

If you use your boat offshore, you will want the ability to pump sewage overboard rather than retaining it. This is most easily accomplished with a Y-valve in the head discharge line. Sewage can be directed into the holding tank or overboard via a through-hull fitting. Inside the three-mile limit this Y-valve must be locked in the holding-tank position or you will be subject to a substantial fine.

Vented Loop

If your head is mounted below the waterline, or if it moves below when the boat heels, you must have a vented loop in a discharge line that connects to a through-hull fitting. Otherwise, if the head's internal valves are held open by debris — an inevitable occurrence — water will siphon back into the boat. Poor head installations sink boats every year.

Mount the vented loop so it will remain above the waterline at all heel angles. Clean the anti-siphon valve regularly to keep it functioning.

A vented loop in the inlet line can interfere with the proper functioning of the head, and its omission poses less risk because of the positive-action valve on the inlet side of the head. But if you leave the loop out, you must keep the inlet valve in good working order. A screen filter to exclude grass and other debris is highly recommended. If you want a vented loop on the inlet side, install it in the hose between the pump and the bowl.

Through-the-Tank Discharge

Putting the Y-valve after the tank instead of before it allows you to empty the tank offshore when a pump-out station is unavailable. It also necessitates an additional pump, one designed to handle sewage.

Before or After

It is possible to combine these last two systems into one that provides total flexibility for the varying circumstances you encounter. With a Y-valve before the tank and one after, you can direct head discharge into the holding tank or directly overboard. And you can empty the tank at a pump-out station or offshore. A simple Y-connector allows both overboard discharge hoses to share the same through-hull fitting.

Treatment System

A treatment system offers nearly the same plumbing simplicity as direct discharge. Connect the head's discharge hose to the inlet side of the treatment unit, and connect the outlet side to the discharge through-hull.

Some onboard treatment systems do a better job than municipal sewage plants, but despite this a number of state governments are moving toward declaring all state waters a No-Discharge Zone. It has already happened in Rhode Island. So if your boating takes you into an NDZ, you will still need a holding tank. Or a cedar bucket.

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Don Casey has been one of the most consulted experts on boat care and upgrades for 30 years, and is one of the BoatUS Magazine's panel of experts. He and his wife cruise aboard their 30-footer part of the year in the eastern Caribbean. His books include Don Casey's Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual, and the recently updated This Old Boat, the bible for do-it-yourself boaters.

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The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

What's that sail for? Generally, I don't know. So I've come up with a system. I'll explain you everything there is to know about sails and rigs in this article.

What are the different types of sails? Most sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. Typically, the mainsail is a fore-and-aft bermuda rig (triangular shaped). A jib or genoa is used for the headsail. Most sailors use additional sails for different conditions: the spinnaker (a common downwind sail), gennaker, code zero (for upwind use), and stormsail.

Each sail has its own use. Want to go downwind fast? Use a spinnaker. But you can't just raise any sail and go for it. It's important to understand when (and how) to use each sail. Your rigging also impacts what sails you can use.

On this page:

Different sail types, the sail plan of a bermuda sloop, mainsail designs, headsail options, specialty sails, complete overview of sail uses, mast configurations and rig types.

This article is part 1 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 2 is all about the different types of rigging. If you want to learn to identify every boat you see quickly, make sure to read it. It really explains the different sail plans and types of rigging clearly.

Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

First I'll give you a quick and dirty overview of sails in this list below. Then, I'll walk you through the details of each sail type, and the sail plan, which is the godfather of sail type selection so to speak.

Click here if you just want to scroll through a bunch of pictures .

Here's a list of different models of sails: (Don't worry if you don't yet understand some of the words, I'll explain all of them in a bit)

• Jib - triangular staysail
• Genoa - large jib that overlaps the mainsail
• Spinnaker - large balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs
• Gennaker - crossover between a Genoa and Spinnaker
• Code Zero or Screecher - upwind spinnaker
• Drifter or reacher - a large, powerful, hanked on genoa, but made from lightweight fabric
• Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
• Trysail - smaller front-and-aft mainsail for heavy weather
• Storm jib - small jib for heavy weather

I have a big table below that explains the sail types and uses in detail .

I know, I know ... this list is kind of messy, so to understand each sail, let's place them in a system.

The first important distinction between sail types is the placement . The mainsail is placed aft of the mast, which simply means behind. The headsail is in front of the mast.

Generally, we have three sorts of sails on our boat:

• Mainsail: The large sail behind the mast which is attached to the mast and boom
• Headsail: The small sail in front of the mast, attached to the mast and forestay (ie. jib or genoa)
• Specialty sails: Any special utility sails, like spinnakers - large, balloon-shaped sails for downwind use

The second important distinction we need to make is the functionality . Specialty sails (just a name I came up with) each have different functionalities and are used for very specific conditions. So they're not always up, but most sailors carry one or more of these sails.

They are mostly attached in front of the headsail, or used as a headsail replacement.

The specialty sails can be divided into three different categories:

• downwind sails - like a spinnaker
• light air or reacher sails - like a code zero
• storm sails

The parts of any sail

Whether large or small, each sail consists roughly of the same elements. For clarity's sake I've took an image of a sail from the world wide webs and added the different part names to it:

• Head: Top of the sail
• Tack: Lower front corner of the sail
• Foot: Bottom of the sail
• Luff: Forward edge of the sail
• Leech: Back edge of the sail
• Clew: Bottom back corner of the sail

So now we speak the same language, let's dive into the real nitty gritty.

Basic sail shapes

Roughly speaking, there are actually just two sail shapes, so that's easy enough. You get to choose from:

• square rigged sails
• fore-and-aft rigged sails

I would definitely recommend fore-and-aft rigged sails. Square shaped sails are pretty outdated. The fore-and-aft rig offers unbeatable maneuverability, so that's what most sailing yachts use nowadays.

Square sails were used on Viking longships and are good at sailing downwind. They run from side to side. However, they're pretty useless upwind.

A fore-and-aft sail runs from the front of the mast to the stern. Fore-and-aft literally means 'in front and behind'. Boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails are better at sailing upwind and maneuvering in general. This type of sail was first used on Arabic boats.

As a beginner sailor I confuse the type of sail with rigging all the time. But I should cut myself some slack, because the rigging and sails on a boat are very closely related. They are all part of the sail plan .

A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

There are dozens of sails and hundreds of possible configurations (or sail plans).

For example, depending on your mast configuration, you can have extra headsails (which then are called staysails).

The shape of the sails depends on the rigging, so they overlap a bit. To keep it simple I'll first go over the different sail types based on the most common rig. I'll go over the other rig types later in the article.

Bermuda Sloop: the most common rig

Most modern small and mid-sized sailboats have a Bermuda sloop configuration . The sloop is one-masted and has two sails, which are front-and-aft rigged. This type of rig is also called a Marconi Rig. The Bermuda rig uses a triangular sail, with just one side of the sail attached to the mast.

The mainsail is in use most of the time. It can be reefed down, making it smaller depending on the wind conditions. It can be reefed down completely, which is more common in heavy weather. (If you didn't know already: reefing is skipper terms for rolling or folding down a sail.)

In very strong winds (above 30 knots), most sailors only use the headsail or switch to a trysail.

The headsail powers your bow, the mainsail powers your stern (rear). By having two sails, you can steer by using only your sails (in theory - it requires experience). In any case, two sails gives you better handling than one, but is still easy to operate.

Let's get to the actual sails. The mainsail is attached behind the mast and to the boom, running to the stern. There are multiple designs, but they actually don't differ that much. So the following list is a bit boring. Feel free to skip it or quickly glance over it.

• Square Top racing mainsail - has a high performance profile thanks to the square top, optional reef points
• Racing mainsail - made for speed, optional reef points
• Cruising mainsail - low-maintenance, easy to use, made to last. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Full-Batten Cruising mainsail - cruising mainsail with better shape control. Eliminates flogging. Full-length battens means the sail is reinforced over the entire length. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• High Roach mainsail - crossover between square top racing and cruising mainsail, used mostly on cats and multihulls. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Mast Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the mast - very convenient but less control; of sail shape. Have no reef points
• Boom Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the boom. Have no reef points.

The headsail is the front sail in a front-and-aft rig. The sail is fixed on a stay (rope, wire or rod) which runs forward to the deck or bowsprit. It's almost always triangular (Dutch fishermen are known to use rectangular headsail). A triangular headsail is also called a jib .

Headsails can be attached in two ways:

• using roller furlings - the sail rolls around the headstay
• hank on - fixed attachment

Types of jibs:

Typically a sloop carries a regular jib as its headsail. It can also use a genoa.

• A jib is a triangular staysail set in front of the mast. It's the same size as the fore-triangle.
• A genoa is a large jib that overlaps the mainsail.

What's the purpose of a jib sail? A jib is used to improve handling and to increase sail area on a sailboat. This helps to increase speed. The jib gives control over the bow (front) of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship. The jib is the headsail (frontsail) on a front-and-aft rig.

The size of the jib is generally indicated by a number - J1, 2, 3, and so on. The number tells us the attachment point. The order of attachment points may differ per sailmaker, so sometimes J1 is the largest jib (on the longest stay) and sometimes it's the smallest (on the shortest stay). Typically the J1 jib is the largest - and the J3 jib the smallest.

Most jibs are roller furling jibs: this means they are attached to a stay and can be reefed down single-handedly. If you have a roller furling you can reef down the jib to all three positions and don't need to carry different sizes.

Originally called the 'overlapping jib', the leech of the genoa extends aft of the mast. This increases speed in light and moderate winds. A genoa is larger than the total size of the fore-triangle. How large exactly is indicated by a percentage.

• A number 1 genoa is typically 155% (it used to be 180%)
• A number 2 genoa is typically 125-140%

Genoas are typically made from 1.5US/oz polyester spinnaker cloth, or very light laminate.

This is where it gets pretty interesting. You can use all kinds of sails to increase speed, handling, and performance for different weather conditions.

Some rules of thumb:

• Large sails are typically good for downwind use, small sails are good for upwind use.
• Large sails are good for weak winds (light air), small sails are good for strong winds (storms).

Downwind sails

Thanks to the front-and-aft rig sailboats are easier to maneuver, but they catch less wind as well. Downwind sails are used to offset this by using a large sail surface, pulling a sailboat downwind. They can be hanked on when needed and are typically balloon shaped.

Here are the most common downwind sails:

• Big gennaker
• Small gennaker

A free-flying sail that fills up with air, giving it a balloon shape. Spinnakers are generally colorful, which is why they look like kites. This downwind sail has the largest sail area, and it's capable of moving a boat with very light wind. They are amazing to use on trade wind routes, where they can help you make quick progress.

Spinnakers require special rigging. You need a special pole and track on your mast. You attach the sail at three points: in the mast head using a halyard, on a pole, and on a sheet.

The spinnaker is symmetrical, meaning the luff is as long as its leech. It's designed for broad reaching.

Gennaker or cruising spinnaker

The Gennaker is a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker. It has less downwind performance than the spinnaker. It is a bit smaller, making it slower, but also easier to handle - while it remains very capable. The cruising spinnaker is designed for broad reaching.

The gennaker is a smaller, asymmetric spinnaker that's doesn't require a pole or track on the mast. Like the spinnaker, and unlike the genoa, the gennaker is set flying. Asymmetric means its luff is longer than its leech.

You can get big and small gennakers (roughly 75% and 50% the size of a true spinnaker).

Also called ...

• the cruising spinnaker
• cruising chute
• pole-less spinnaker
• SpinDrifter

... it's all the same sail.

Light air sails

There's a bit of overlap between the downwind sails and light air sails. Downwind sails can be used as light air sails, but not all light air sails can be used downwind.

Here are the most common light air sails:

• Spinnaker and gennaker

Drifter reacher

Code zero reacher.

A drifter (also called a reacher) is a lightweight, larger genoa for use in light winds. It's roughly 150-170% the size of a genoa. It's made from very lightweight laminated spinnaker fabric (1.5US/oz).

Thanks to the extra sail area the sail offers better downwind performance than a genoa. It's generally made from lightweight nylon. Thanks to it's genoa characteristics the sail is easier to use than a cruising spinnaker.

The code zero reacher is officially a type of spinnaker, but it looks a lot like a large genoa. And that's exactly what it is: a hybrid cross between the genoa and the asymmetrical spinnaker (gennaker). The code zero however is designed for close reaching, making it much flatter than the spinnaker. It's about twice the size of a non-overlapping jib.

A windseeker is a small, free-flying staysail for super light air. It's tall and thin. It's freestanding, so it's not attached to the headstay. The tack attaches to a deck pad-eye. Use your spinnakers' halyard to raise it and tension the luff.

It's made from nylon or polyester spinnaker cloth (0.75 to 1.5US/oz).

It's designed to guide light air onto the lee side of the main sail, ensuring a more even, smooth flow of air.

Stormsails are stronger than regular sails, and are designed to handle winds of over 45 knots. You carry them to spare the mainsail. Sails

A storm jib is a small triangular staysail for use in heavy weather. If you participate in offshore racing you need a mandatory orange storm jib. It's part of ISAF's requirements.

A trysail is a storm replacement for the mainsail. It's small, triangular, and it uses a permanently attached pennant. This allows it to be set above the gooseneck. It's recommended to have a separate track on your mast for it - you don't want to fiddle around when you actually really need it to be raised ... now.

Why Use Different Sails At All?

You could just get the largest furling genoa and use it on all positions. So why would you actually use different types of sails?

The main answer to that is efficiency . Some situations require other characteristics.

Having a deeply reefed genoa isn't as efficient as having a small J3. The reef creates too much draft in the sail, which increases heeling. A reefed down mainsail in strong winds also increases heeling. So having dedicated (storm) sails is probably a good thing, especially if you're planning more demanding passages or crossings.

But it's not just strong winds, but also light winds that can cause problems. Heavy sails will just flap around like laundry in very light air. So you need more lightweight fabrics to get you moving.

What Are Sails Made Of?

The most used materials for sails nowadays are:

• Dacron - woven polyester
• woven nylon
• laminated fabrics - increasingly popular

Sails used to be made of linen. As you can imagine, this is terrible material on open seas. Sails were rotting due to UV and saltwater. In the 19th century linen was replaced by cotton.

It was only in the 20th century that sails were made from synthetic fibers, which were much stronger and durable. Up until the 1980s most sails were made from Dacron. Nowadays, laminates using yellow aramids, Black Technora, carbon fiber and Spectra yarns are more and more used.

Laminates are as strong as Dacron, but a lot lighter - which matters with sails weighing up to 100 kg (220 pounds).

By the way: we think that Viking sails were made from wool and leather, which is quite impressive if you ask me.

In this section of the article I give you a quick and dirty summary of different sail plans or rig types which will help you to identify boats quickly. But if you want to really understand it clearly, I really recommend you read part 2 of this series, which is all about different rig types.

You can't simply count the number of masts to identify rig type But you can identify any rig type if you know what to look for. We've created an entire system for recognizing rig types. Let us walk you through it. Read all about sail rig types

As I've said earlier, there are two major rig types: square rigged and fore-and-aft. We can divide the fore-and-aft rigs into three groups:

• Bermuda rig (we have talked about this one the whole time) - has a three-sided mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided mainsail on a long yard

There are roughly four types of boats:

• one masted boats - sloop, cutter
• two masted boats - ketch, schooner, brig
• three masted - barque
• fully rigged or ship rigged - tall ship

Everything with four masts is called a (tall) ship. I think it's outside the scope of this article, but I have written a comprehensive guide to rigging. I'll leave the three and four-masted rigs for now. If you want to know more, I encourage you to read part 2 of this series.

One-masted rigs

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

The 3 most common one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

1. Gaff Cat

2. Gaff Sloop

Two-masted rigs

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the main mast. Behind (aft of) the main mast is called a mizzen mast . In front of the main mast is called a foremast .

The 5 most common two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Main mast carries small lateen rigged sail.

4. Schooner

5. Brigantine

This article is part 1 of a series about sails and rig types If you want to read on and learn to identify any sail plans and rig type, we've found a series of questions that will help you do that quickly. Read all about recognizing rig types

Related Questions

What is the difference between a gennaker & spinnaker? Typically, a gennaker is smaller than a spinnaker. Unlike a spinnaker, a gennaker isn't symmetric. It's asymmetric like a genoa. It is however rigged like a spinnaker; it's not attached to the forestay (like a jib or a genoa). It's a downwind sail, and a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker (hence the name).

What is a Yankee sail? A Yankee sail is a jib with a high-cut clew of about 3' above the boom. A higher-clewed jib is good for reaching and is better in high waves, preventing the waves crash into the jibs foot. Yankee jibs are mostly used on traditional sailboats.

How much does a sail weigh? Sails weigh anywhere between 4.5-155 lbs (2-70 kg). The reason is that weight goes up exponentially with size. Small boats carry smaller sails (100 sq. ft.) made from thinner cloth (3.5 oz). Large racing yachts can carry sails of up to 400 sq. ft., made from heavy fabric (14 oz), totaling at 155 lbs (70 kg).

What's the difference between a headsail and a staysail? The headsail is the most forward of the staysails. A boat can only have one headsail, but it can have multiple staysails. Every staysail is attached to a forward running stay. However, not every staysail is located at the bow. A stay can run from the mizzen mast to the main mast as well.

What is a mizzenmast? A mizzenmast is the mast aft of the main mast (behind; at the stern) in a two or three-masted sailing rig. The mizzenmast is shorter than the main mast. It may carry a mainsail, for example with a ketch or lugger. It sometimes doesn't carry a mainsail, for example with a yawl, allowing it to be much shorter.

Special thanks to the following people for letting me use their quality photos: Bill Abbott - True Spinnaker with pole - CC BY-SA 2.0 lotsemann - Volvo Ocean Race Alvimedica and the Code Zero versus SCA and the J1 - CC BY-SA 2.0 Lisa Bat - US Naval Academy Trysail and Storm Jib dry fit - CC BY-SA 2.0 Mike Powell - White gaff cat - CC BY-SA 2.0 Anne Burgess - Lugger The Reaper at Scottish Traditional Boat Festival

Hi, I stumbled upon your page and couldn’t help but notice some mistakes in your description of spinnakers and gennakers. First of all, in the main photo on top of this page the small yacht is sailing a spinnaker, not a gennaker. If you look closely you can see the spinnaker pole standing on the mast, visible between the main and headsail. Further down, the discription of the picture with the two German dinghies is incorrect. They are sailing spinnakers, on a spinnaker pole. In the farthest boat, you can see a small piece of the pole. If needed I can give you the details on the difference between gennakers and spinnakers correctly?

Hi Shawn, I am living in Utrecht I have an old gulf 32 and I am sailing in merkmeer I find your articles very helpful Thanks

Thank you for helping me under stand all the sails there names and what there functions were and how to use them. I am planning to build a trimaran 30’ what would be the best sails to have I plan to be coastal sailing with it. Thank you

Hey Comrade!

Well done with your master piece blogging. Just a small feedback. “The jib gives control over the bow of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship.” Can you please first tell the different part of a sail boat earlier and then talk about bow and stern later in the paragraph. A reader has no clue on the newly introduced terms. It helps to keep laser focused and not forget main concepts.

Shawn, I am currently reading How to sail around the World” by Hal Roth. Yes, I want to sail around the world. His book is truly grounded in real world experience but like a lot of very knowledgable people discussing their area of expertise, Hal uses a lot of terms that I probably should have known but didn’t, until now. I am now off to read your second article. Thank You for this very enlightening article on Sail types and their uses.

Shawn Buckles

HI CVB, that’s a cool plan. Thanks, I really love to hear that. I’m happy that it was helpful to you and I hope you are of to a great start for your new adventure!

Hi GOWTHAM, thanks for the tip, I sometimes forget I haven’t specified the new term. I’ve added it to the article.

Nice article and video; however, you’re mixing up the spinnaker and the gennaker.

A started out with a question. What distinguishes a brig from a schooner? Which in turn led to follow-up questions: I know there are Bermuda rigs and Latin rig, are there more? Which in turn led to further questions, and further, and further… This site answers them all. Wonderful work. Thank you.

Great post and video! One thing was I was surprised how little you mentioned the Ketch here and not at all in the video or chart, and your sample image is a large ship with many sails. Some may think Ketch’s are uncommon, old fashioned or only for large boats. Actually Ketch’s are quite common for cruisers and live-aboards, especially since they often result in a center cockpit layout which makes for a very nice aft stateroom inside. These are almost exclusively the boats we are looking at, so I was surprised you glossed over them.

Love the article and am finding it quite informative.

While I know it may seem obvious to 99% of your readers, I wish you had defined the terms “upwind” and “downwind.” I’m in the 1% that isn’t sure which one means “with the wind” (or in the direction the wind is blowing) and which one means “against the wind” (or opposite to the way the wind is blowing.)

paul adriaan kleimeer

like in all fields of syntax and terminology the terms are colouual meaning local and then spead as the technology spread so an history lesson gives a floral bouque its colour and in the case of notical terms span culture and history adds an detail that bring reverence to the study simply more memorable.

Hi, I have a small yacht sail which was left in my lock-up over 30 years ago I basically know nothing about sails and wondered if you could spread any light as to the make and use of said sail. Someone said it was probably originally from a Wayfayer wooden yacht but wasn’t sure. Any info would be must appreciated and indeed if would be of any use to your followers? I can provide pics but don’t see how to include them at present

kind regards

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Ever wondered what type of sailboat you're looking at? Identifying sailboats isn't hard, you just have to know what to look for. In this article, I'll help you.

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Dear Readers

• Systems & Propulsion

Solutions for a Stinky Holding Tank

Additives prove effective in reducing tank odors, but ventilation is the key to keeping the stink at bay..

No one wants a marine head that brings back memories of portable toilets, yet that’s exactly what we think of when holding tank chemicals are mentioned. Some of the chemicals bearing that familiar port-a-potty smell—disinfectants and surfactants mixed with deodorizers—are still being used in holding tanks. However, there’s a new generation of holding tank treatments that use enzymes and nutrients for bacteria to reduce odors more naturally, and we found, often more effectively. Some chemicals also claim to help liquefy the waste and prevent clogging. While larger boats can use vent filters and enhanced ventilation to reduce odors, the only practical option for the small-boat owner with a portable toilet is some sort of treatment in a can. (We will be looking at vent filters for holding tanks in the March issue of Practical Sailor .)

How do disinfectant treatments work? Aqua-Kem, a traditional and popular product in this category, contains formaldehyde, a traditional disinfecting agent. This is not healthy stuff; it’s listed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as a suspected human carcinogen. New buildings are limited by law to 16 parts per billion (ppb) and the Environmental Protection Agency’s action level for existing homes is 8 ppb. This amounts to a spill of about 0.0003 grams in a typical 35-foot boat, or about 1/13th of a drop. If enough is used, it will halt all biological activity, but that doesn’t mean it will kill all odor; the formaldehyde stinks, and there is still some chemical breakdown, so strong perfumes are loaded in with it, along with a powerful blue dye so that there is no mistaking it for a tall glass of spring water. Unfortunately, the dye also stains everything it touches. In our view, formaldehyde doesn’t belong on a boat, much less in a poorly ventilated area, such as the average marine head compartment.

The newer, enzyme-loaded products are known as bio-augmentation treatments, because they augment the natural biological processes. How do bio-augmentation treatments work? Some—such as Odorlos and TST Ultra Concentrate—work primarily by providing nitrate as both a nutrient and as an alternative oxygen source for bacteria. Bacteria convert nitrate to nitrite or nitrogen, liberating oxygen and encouraging aerobic decomposition. If nitrate is present in sufficient amounts, anaerobic and facilitative bacteria (bacteria that can quickly switch from aerobic to anaerobic metabolism, as conditions require) can use it instead of sulfate, which is present in both seawater and waste, as an oxygen source. This greatly reduces the production of sulfide, mercaptan, and organic-acid odors. In very simplified terms, the dominant reactions are these:

• Organics + O2 → CO2 + H2O + energy

• Organics + (NO3)- → N2 + H2O + energy

• Organics + (SO4)-2 → CO2 + H2S + energy

• Organics → CO2 + organic acids + CH4 + H2O + energy

TST Ultra Concentrate also includes sodium carbonate (washing soda), presumably to help disperse solids and buffer the pH upward. Decomposing wastes tend to become acid (low pH), aerobic bacteria prefer neutral pH, and hydrogen sulfide is far more volatile in acidic water.

How do enzyme and bacterial culture treatments work? Here we must guess, as the manufactures are tight with information. Presumably these mixtures contain a combination of nutrients, surfactants, aerobic bacteria, and enzymes, though we can only judge the results by measuring sulfide reduction and observing odor. We find claims that any sealed products contain live aerobic bacteria difficult to support, since the bottles will become anaerobic, and effectively, all of the aerobic bacteria will die within a few weeks. There are tricks to extend the life of these bacteria, but, as wastewater treatment experts will tell you, aerobic bacterial samples don’t remain viable for very long in a closed bottle. Enzymes can work—they are more stable and do most of what the bacteria would do—but they can’t multiply. They also break down in time, and must be added regularly and after each pump-out.

In the end, the complex chemistry and variable nature of the waste create a black box for the user—as well as for any tester. Given the variables that can impact this particular test, the best we could do is measure what we find, and in the case of biologically active treatments, add a little air in order to foster growth. For complete details on our testing procedures, see “How We Tested.”

WHAT WE TESTED

Treatment chemicals were obtained from a number of leading manufacturers. Although not a comprehensive field, it included the main players, many of which, such as Camco, are more familiar among RV aficionados. Other contenders included products from marine toilet makers Thetford and Dometic (under the SeaLand brand), and multinational chemical corporation Yara, the makers of Odorlos. Some smaller niche-players like Unique Distributing, makers of Marine Digest-It, and Nature-Zyme rounded out the field. One entry, VanishOdor, was unable to gain traction in this crowded field, so it pulled its product from the market before our test ended—a shame since it did well in testing. Since it is no longer available, VanishOdor was not included in the final results.

We also tested odor control in two tanks that relied solely on enhanced ventilation to promote the biological processes that combat odor. One tank used an oversized vent; the other was aerated with a fish-bubbler, which functions similarly to the Sweet Tank system offered by one of the oldest names in American marine plumbing: Groco.

OBSERVATIONS

Whatever happens with these treatments, it happens in one week, perhaps two weeks in larger tanks. Solids digestion evaluation is difficult to determine, in part because it’s too foul to measure quantitatively and also because agitation makes it quite variable; these solids break up quickly if the tank is shaken by the action of sailing in vigorous conditions. Thus, we gave only pass/fail ratings to solids digestion; if we saw lumps, it failed. Marine Digest-It and Nature-zyme, which fared well in the summer, failed this test in the fall.

Treated tanks contained far less hydrogen sulfide than the untreated tanks with equivalent ventilation, an indicator that all of the products did work. All were far better than the poorly ventilated, untreated tanks. Other than residual solids, which eventually could cause pump-out difficulties, the two things testers disliked were strong deodorant smells reminiscent of portable toilets and strong dyes that can cause staining.

Temperature makes a difference. The odor and hydrogen sulfide results reported the accompanying Value Guide were from our summer observations, since this was when odors were strongest and it is when most people sail. For fall and winter sailors and for those in cold-water areas (Maine, Pacific Northwest), the results were quite different. The bio-augmentation chemicals performed poorly in cooler weather. Vented tanks were also less effective, though the difference was less significant. Vent filters remained efficient year round. However, odors decline with temperature and true winter weather odor problems are very rare.

All of the products claiming to contain live bacterial cultures tested negative for bacteria. Control inoculations flourished, however, quickly producing both bacteria and fungus. But, we are not certain this is too important. The enzymatic properties of several products seemed capable of quickly reducing holding tank odor, and there is already plenty of bacteria in waste. Sewage treatment plants very seldom add cultured bacteria because of this. Additionally, many of the so-called anaerobic bacteria in waste are actually facilitative bacteria that are capable of either aerobic or anaerobic metabolism and can shift mechanism quickly when circumstances change. This change takes only minutes to hours, explaining why chemicals that add oxygen and enhanced venting can materially affect odor in less than 12 hours, far quicker than an aerobic culture could blossom. In time, as every sewage treatment plant operator learns, the optimum culture will establish itself based upon the governing conditions; the bacteria in the waste and these conditions overwhelm any minor biomass additions. Avoiding the addition of toxic chemicals—formaldehyde and related compounds, and bleach being the most common holding tank offenders—is the key to preserving healthy biomass.

Holding tanks and waste are surprisingly variable, and this can have a great effect on odors. Like most ocean sailors, we used seawater flush for our testing. Seawater is known to contribute to odors. Many newer systems use freshwater, and very little of it. Others use several pints per flush. Temperatures vary, and ventilation varies. Clearly, individual tanks will be subject to a number of variables that our test tanks were not. To compensate for this, we tested all the chemicals more than once under different conditions. Those that showed the most merit in early testing underwent additional testing. All of the recommended products did well, and we encourage you to try each and see which one works best for your special circumstances.

Containing nitrate as an active ingredient, this product is quite effective when holding-tank ventilation is provided. The liquid version has a green dye, but it is non-staining. We tested the powder version, which was convenient and without mess and perfumes. Among one of the most effective products in our test, Odorlos is a solid performer, and deserves its large following. We tested the 10-pack powder packet. Although the liquid version is the best-selling form, cruising sailors seem to prefer the powder, as it requires the least storage space.

Odorlos was one of our three recommended products. Pricing is competitive.

Camco is a major player in the world of RVs, and we tested two of its holding tank treatments. Its best-selling holding tank treatment, TST Ultra Concentrate, contains nitrate as an oxygen source and washing soda as a cleaner. It performed very well and was the least expensive of the group. The mild orange perfume was just enough and not overpowering; pine scent and “fresh” scent (as opposed to stale?) are available, but testers didn’t like these quite as well. PS testers focused on the powder form, as it seems most convenient to cruisers. A liquid is also available and performed the same in testing.

Camco’s other product, TST Advanced Enzyme, claims to break down organic matter, but this enzyme formula was too variable in our testing. It had no noticeable perfume.

Bottom line: Camco’s TST Ultra Concentrate is our Best Choice, and it is also one of the least expensive products in this test. PS does not recommend the TST Advance Enzyme product.

Marine Digest-It

Unique Manufacturing is a web-based company with its headquarters in Tucson, Ariz. Its range of anti-stain and anti-odor products address everything from wine spills to dog poop to septic tanks. Unique Marine Digest-It is an enzyme product without any dye or perfumes.

According to the maker, the bacteria in Marine Digest-It digests organic solids in the holding tank. The company claims that its product has a longer shelf life than similar products because the active bacteria is in a spore form.

Bottom line: The product was inconsistent in our testing. The dip slide test did not yield any bacteria cultures. Not recommended.

Nature-zyme

Sold in tablet form, Nature-Zyme is developed by Chicago-based Biowish Technologies. According to the maker, Nature-Zyme is an “all natural” product that removes odors and liquefies wastes inside vehicle and watercraft holding tanks and will continue to work after wastewater is emptied into dumping stations and finds its way into onsite septic systems at marinas and RV resorts. The maker claims that Nature-Zyme contains dry bacterial spores that, unlike many chemical treatments, will not harm septic systems, and will improve their treatment ability. The product is sold in pouches of 12 tablets, with each tablet treating holding tanks up to 25 gallons and costing about $1 each.

Bottom line: This convenient product did not control odor as well as others. The maker claimed it contained bacterial spores, but it failed to produce cultures in our test. At press time, the product appears to have been pulled from the market. We will pass on this.

Dometic Max Control Advanced

Dometic is a major force in the world of marine and RV sanitation, making everything from holding tanks to hoses to heads. Its low-water VacuFlush system has become a standard on many larger yachts. Its advanced formula Max Control did not contain any formaldehyde, but the perfume was quite strong. Its inconsistent odor control and staining blue dye put it near the bottom of the field. SeaLand recently introduced a new environmentally friendly formula, which we will test this summer.

Bottom line: Not recommended, but given SeaLand’s expertise in this field, the newer product is worth a shot.

Thetford Aqua-Kem

Thetford is another big player in the marine sanitation game. Its electric-flush EasyFit toilet earned a Budget Buy rating in our test of marine toilets (March 2011). Containing powerful dye and powerful perfumes and odors, Thetford’s Aqua-Kem also contains formaldehyde, making it a non-starter in our view. Fortunately, Thetford has a very good alternative. A bio-augmentation and enzyme formula, Thetford Eco-Smart, performed much better and was safer and less messy to use. It is available in economy size bottles, small single-dose bottles, or as a toss-in bubble pack.

Bottom line: Thetford Eco-Smart earns a Recommended rating; avoid Aqua-Kem.

CONCLUSIONS

Chemical treatments that relied on disinfection, surfactants, and deodorants were generally better than nothing, and they did a serviceable job of reducing solids. However, none of them controlled odor very well, most were messy, and all left a characteristic portable toilet aroma behind. Even if the waste odors were gone—and it was not—they would be distasteful. We do not recommend this class of products.

Good tank ventilation helps significantly, particularly in the absence of chemical treatment, though it was not as effective alone as the better treatments. Combined with bio-augmenting chemical treatments, well-ventilated tanks effectively controlled odor. Larger vents make good sense and will reduce odors in boats that are left unattended for weeks at a time. Our bubbler system, intended to model the effect of the Groco Sweet Tank System, offered some improvement over natural ventilation. In a larger tank or one where good ventilation is very difficult to achieve, this offers a viable and robust approach.

Bio-augmentation treatments, particularly the recommended treatments, did a fine job of reducing tank solids and controlling odors. The only challenge, which we were not able to adequately investigate, is that they may not last long enough to work in boats that sit unused for three weeks or longer, which can prevent the exchange of air. One solution is to go sailing more often. Another solution is to increase the vent size so that natural ventilation helps these treatments work optimally.

None of the treatments were effective when the air exchange was overly restricted by a long vent line or a vent filter. The conventional wisdom that a vent line can be no longer than five feet, no smaller than ¾-inch inside diameter, and have a rise no more than 18 inches, has proven sound.

How do chemical treatments, vent filters, and enhanced tank ventilation compare? After many months spent lugging waste and comparing results, we’ve learned all can work, but that each approach has limitations. Good tank ventilation seems a good place to start, supplemented with chemical treatment as needed. The Sweet Tank System can be the answer when good ventilation is otherwise difficult to achieve or the tank is very heavily loaded. For sensitive vent locations (near cockpits, hatches, ports, etc.), vent filters offer the best odor control if a good installation can be achieved. However, the elevated hydrogen sulfide levels in these tanks may increase permeation risk over the long term. We are currently running some long-term tests of hoses and vent filters. Fortunately, the total costs of all of these odor control approaches, taken over time, are low. Stay tuned for our reports on vent filters and hoses in the forthcoming issues.

• Ziggy the Iguana Puts Odor Control to the Test
• Real-world Advice from Holding Tank Makers

• NaturE-zyme
• Unique Distributing

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Great articles very informative and helpfual

The body of the article says PS does not recommend Camco’s Advanced Enzyme Product, but in the Value Guide, it is “Recommended.” Which is it?

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Marine Expert

9 Best Marine Stereos – (Reviews & Unbiased Guide 2022) 

The best marine stereo is just the right thing to set the mood when you’re out there, sailing away. The wind in your hair, the water splashing the sides of your boat, and a great tune – there are few things as pleasant as that.

Investing in a reliable stereo system for your vessel will make sailing so much more pleasant, and you will have a great time each time you get on your boat. We have checked what some of the available models on the market are, and showcased our favorite picks in the marine stereo reviews section. And if you’re not sure what to look out for – check out our buying guide too!

See The Quick Comparison Chart

Benefits of Having a Good Marine Stereo System

Once you start looking for sound pieces of equipment for your boat, you will start learning why you should go for specifically designed devices for this type of environment, instead of the regular models. It is the same with marine stereos. Let’s look at some of the benefits offered by such a unit.

1. UV Protection

Since the unit may constantly be in direct sunlight, electronic devices can suffer from it. Therefore, you need a unit that can withstand the damaging effects of the UV rays.

A reliable marine stereo has the controls, faceplate, as well as the display with UV resistant qualities that also provide the unit durability over many years.

2. Water Resistance

Needless to say, the marine environment is wet. Water is bound to get inside your boat and into your electronic units. Marine stereos are water-resistant, so you do not have to worry about this part.

3. Anti-Corrosion Protection

This type of device has anti-corrosion sealed components that help reduce the quantity of water that can enter the electrical area of the vessel. This will increase the durability of your device and it will keep it functioning properly.

4. Marine Weather Radio

Many models on the market have this feature included. You might not care about the weather conditions in your everyday life, but when you are in the water, this is valuable information. Having a weather radio at hand can be very useful.

5. Music Streaming

Using the built-in Bluetooth function on your audio receiver, you can easily listen to music from your smartphone. You can select only your favorite tunes or you may already have a song collection that you use for fishing, for instance.

6. Better Materials

A car stereo may be cheaper, but it certainly is worth throwing in a few extra bucks to get a marine stereo that is made for the marine environment. You will get what you pay for because the materials included in the unit’s construction are of higher-quality.

Best Marine Stereos Comparison Chart

Best Marine Stereos Reviews

1. pyle marine plmrb29b bluetooth stereo.

Moreover, the built-in microphone from the front panel of the receiver offers you hands-free talking ability. This means that you can easily answer or even reject calls safely so that you can focus better on your navigation. The unit has a power of 12 volts and a single DIN universal standard-size design. The black color adds up for a sleek look.

This model can easily replace single DIN size radios. Also, it is compatible with all of your favorite Bluetooth devices, which is extremely convenient. You will also appreciate the 300 Watt peak power output of this unit that allows you to play your favorite tunes as loud as you want while you stay afloat.

• This stereo comes with a convenient and easy-to-use remote control
• The maximum USB/SD memory support is 32 GB which is more than enough to store your favorite music
• The illuminated front panel controls are very convenient to use when you are afloat at night
• Since the stereo does not come with speakers, you will have to get these separately

2. Sony DSX-M55BT Bluetooth Marine Digital Media Stereo Receiver with SiriusXM

With this unit, you can enjoy a lot of smart as well as innovative technology. The device includes bot only Bluetooth but also one-touch technology which means you can stream music using the NFC of your smart device.

The front USB slot and the microphone offers you Siri control so that you can use it hands-free also. Thanks to the advanced sound technology, this stereo will sound amazing in any condition. What is more, you will also get a wireless remote control that allows you to access your music wherever you may be on your boat.

• All the stereo’s vital components are humidity and UV-resistant to last you for many years
• This unit works with Pandora from iOS, Android, and Blackberry smartphones
• The Mega Bass modifies boost frequency and gain according to the volume’s position
• Unlike other Sony models, this one does not offer the possibility to control it from your mobile device

3. JVC KD-X35MBS SiriusXM Bluetooth Marine Stereo Receiver

Also, it has a lot of connections for many types of digital devices. Therefore, you have plenty of entertainment options for your boating adventures. Another feature that you will probably like is the reverse display that cuts through the glare.

This feature makes the stereo ideal for various open-top vehicles. As you might have guessed, this unit can be used in your car as well. Furthermore, this model comes with three sets of 4V preamp outputs for front, rear, and subwoofer. The power output of this unit is 50 Watts for four channels.

• With this stereo, you can play your music as loud as you want
• The face plate is removable so you can take it off when you are not using it
• The price of this unit is extremely affordable
• You won’t be able to use the stereo with and Android phone as it is compatible with iOS operating systems

4. Pyle Marine Receiver & Speaker Kit

The Pyle Marine Receiver & Speaker Kit allows you to play your music files using the built-in Bluetooth technology which is compatible with all devices that use this technology. Thanks to the SD slot, you can easily store your favorite playlists.

The stereo also has an AUX port as well as a USB flash input connector that you can use to charge your phone. This unit is compact and extremely easy to install and use. You probably won’t even need to read the manual to figure out how it works.

• The stereo is equipped with a built-in microphone that allows you to take calls hands-fee
• The LCD digital display is very easy to see even in the dark
• You will also receive a remote control so that you can access your music
• You will need to get an external antenna if you want to listen to more radio stations

5. BOSS Audio Systems MCKGB350B.6 Marine Gauge Receiver

The BOSS Audio Systems MCKGB350B.6 Marine Gauge Receiver allows you to connect your smartphone and MP3 player using the auxiliary input, plug into the UBS port for more tunes, and to turn on the weather band, AM, and FM radio. As you can see, a lot of possibilities! The Bluetooth technology that is present allows you to stream music apps.

What is more, this unit has an IPX6 rating because it is built with high-quality weatherproofing materials as well as UV coatings. Therefore, you can be sure your stereo will be kept safe from the elements. Moreover, thanks to the built-in Preset EQ, you can select from the preset EQ curves for a wide variety of music styles.

• You can use the front or the rear subwoofer outputs to connect your speakers and subwoofers
• If you purchase through Amazon, you are covered by a three-year platinum online dealer warranty
• The unit features a built-in amplifier
• There is no CD mechanism included in this audio system

6. Fusion Entertainment MS-RA70N Marine Entertainment System

Thanks to the 4 x50 W class-A amplifier, you will enjoy enough power to blast your tunes. Since it has built-in Bluetooth, a rear USB connection, as well as an AUX, you have options for any type of connection. Moreover, the stereo has a bright and clear display, with full Android and Apple interface so that you can easily see the song that is playing.

This stereo is water-resistant and it can easily be installed because it fits standard-style car stereo holes, so it can be a perfect replacement for your old unit. It can also be integrated into a glass helm with a flush surface mount for a high-end installation.

• This stereo comes with an optically bonded glass display
• The front is IPX6 rated meaning it has a high resistance to water and humidity
• You can remotely control the unit using your smartphone
• You should know that the face plate is not removable
• This model is quite expensive compared to other products on our list

7. Pyle PLRMR27BTB Bluetooth Marine Receiver Stereo

It is your basic in-dash DIN stereo, with Bluetooth audio streaming and AM and FM radio. Moreover, the unit comes with a built-in microphone that allows you to take calls hands-free. This is very useful when you are too busy having fun on your boat to pick up the phone.

Thanks to the auxiliary cable input, this stereo is compatible with smartphones, tablets, as well as MP3 players. This model also comes with ports for Micro SD cards and USBs. The LCD screen has an ID-3 tag readout which allows you to easily identify the tune it’s playing by song title and artist.

• This stereo has a maximum power output of 4 x 75 watts, allowing you to enjoy your music in noisy environments.
• The remote control is a convenient way to control the stereo even if you are on the other side of the boat.
• It is compatible with various types of vehicles.
• The audio settings are poor, and there isn’t much to choose from.

8. Garmin Fusion MS-RA70 Stereo

When it comes to installation, you have the option to mount the device with a conventional flush finish or to integrate it flat into a glass helm. The Garmin Fusion MS-RA70 Stereo features the A2DP Bluetooth wireless technology that offers the Fusion-Link app remote control. This unit allows you to stream your favorite tunes from any device that is compatible.

You can easily download the Fusion-Link application from your mobile store. It is free and available for both Apple and Android smartphones. The optically bonded glass display and the IPX6 rated front ensures that no water can get inside your stereo. Since it is built with high-quality materials, you will be able to enjoy this unit for a very long time.

• The functions of this unit are extremely easy to use.
• This unit provides an amazing sound, even in noisy environments.
• You have a lot of choices when it comes to the audio settings.
• The device is rather expensive and you will have to get the speakers separately.

9. Aquatic AV AQ-MP-5BT Bluetooth Waterproof Marine Stereo

The USB port is universal, which means that it can be used with most types of smartphones. You will also like that it provides 30 presets range for FM and AM frequencies making sure that your on-water experiences are never going to become boring. You can also enjoy wired connections with the 3.5 mm Stereo Jack as well as the RCA inputs.

The device also features a knob control rotary that is very easy to use. What is more, the face plate comes with a built-in 288 amplifier that can be connected to a maximum of eight speakers.

• The large LCD screen is extremely visible and easy to read
• Since the face plate is removable, you can take it off when the stereo is not in use
• The functions are very easy to use
• This model does not come with wireless support

What Are Marine Stereos?

Marine stereos, on the other hand, need to have a sturdy construction, or they would not last in this environment. Saltwater is extremely conductive to electrical charges and it is almost impossible for it not to enter your stereo at some point. For this reason, marine stereos have a particular construction with special materials included in their build.

Marine Stereos vs. Marine Radios

1. Marine Stereos

These units are mainly used for music playback purposes. There are models available on the market that can be used as speakerphones, provided they have Bluetooth connectivity and offer microphone support.

2. Marine Radios

These are devices that can transmit and receive messages which are used to communicate on a set of international frequencies which are called channels. The models in our VHF marine radio reviews allow you to call for help from the emergency support services, speak with captains of other vessels, or even contact bridge tenders to request an opening.

It can also be used to listen to sea and weather reports. Under U.S. regulation, you are not required to have a radio onboard a recreational boat, but it is a smart thing to keep one, just in case.

3. Main Differences

Now that we’ve seen what these devices are, let us look at the main differences. Marine radios usually have an antenna that catches the channels on AM and FM waves . In terms of weather reports and communication, marine stereos are less practical.

However, you will be able to find radio stations to listen to music. Both devices can receive a radio signal, but it is only a marine radio that can also send a radio message.

The functionality to play music is one of the biggest differences between these two types of devices. Marine radios allow you to listen to the music that is broadcast through radio stations, and that is it. Marine stereos, on the other hand, provide many levels of functionality and are most appealing for people who really enjoy listening to music.

When it comes to appearance, these two devices are quite different as well. Most marine stereos available could be placed into a car. However, marine radios are much bulkier and are designed to be used only on boats.

As a conclusion, if you love music, and want to be able to play your favorite tunes loud and clear, you should definitely go for a marine stereo. Still, it would not be a bad idea to have a radio on board, in case of an emergency.

Marine Stereo Buying Guide

1. What to Look For

First, there are certain features any good marine stereo should have without which, you should not even waste your time looking at. Let’s see what they are.

1.1 Water, IPX Rate and UV Resistance

Since your new stereo is for a boat that is intended to be in the open, susceptible to all mother nature throws at it, clearly it will also have to deal with the sun and occasional contact with water. For this reason, it is paramount that the unit is waterproof against possible contact with water.

The IPX rate is what guarantees that the item has been tested for water penetration so it is safe to use on marine environments. You should look for this when you get your device. This is usually the part that separates standard stereos from marine units.

UV protection is just as important because the rays of the sun can cause a lot of damage to your stereo. Equipped with UV protection, your device will last longer even after dealing with harsh environmental conditions.

If you think that these features are not that important, you should know that you might get away without UV protection, for a while. However, if your stereo is not waterproof, you are going to end up with a device that is damaged beyond repair because contact with water is inevitable on a boat.

1.2 Anti-corrosion Protection

When it comes to units you are going to use on a boat, water resistance and UV protection is not enough. A good marine stereo should also be resistant to corrosion.

Since water can get in certain areas of the device, this feature will not allow these parts to rust. A stereo that is water and corrosion resistant is a solid investment because it will last you a very long time.

The marine environment is loud due to the water hitting your boat combined with the hum of the engine, and let’s not forget about the wind. Therefore, if you want to be able to enjoy your music, the speaker needs to be loud as well. Still, it is not only about hearing your tunes loud, but it is important to hear them clearly.

For this, you will need a marine speaker that has serious power. If you also have a four-way marine amplifier, it will help you increase the sound and hear it clearly. You should know that there are two standard power ratings given to stereos.

These are the maximum power output and the RMS power output. The maximum power output refers to the power that can be generated over a short period, while the RMS power output is a measure of what can be delivered continuously.

In case your boat will usually be in a noisy environment, the stereo you choose should have a high power-rating as it will help you hear the music you play clearly. However, if you are usually boating on calm waters, this aspect is not that important.

Before deciding on a specific model, you need to think about where you are going to place it, and where you are going to put the speakers in your boat. In case you are replacing a stereo, you will probably need to fill a gap with specific dimensions.

Therefore, you need to select a model that is the same size as your old one, otherwise, it will not fit. It will also make the installation easier. However, if your heart is set on a certain stereo, you can also widen or shorten the existing space so that it will fit.

The important thing for you to remember is that before you choose a new stereo, you should plan ahead how you want it to look on your boat and make the necessary measurements. If not, you may end up with issues you have not even thought of.

1.5 Ease of Use and Installation

No matter how many useful features and extras your stereo has, they are worthless if they are too complicated. If you are new to these devices, you are going to be extremely frustrated by not knowing how to use yours.

Since not all of us are extremely knowledgeable using sound systems, you can also make your life easier by choosing a stereo that is fairly easy to install and use, with a user-friendly interface and controls.

2. Functionality and Features

2.1 Bluetooth Connectivity

Most marine radio receivers can transmit and receive a Bluetooth signal, which makes them very convenient for streaming music from your smart devices. That means that it is enough to have your smartphone with you, packed with music, and stream your favorite tunes on your stereo.

There are, however, some models that only support certain types of software. Therefore, before you decide on a specific model, make sure that it is Bluetooth compatible.

2.2 Smartphone Compatibility

Having the possibility to link up your phone with the stereo makes things a lot easier when it comes to managing your music. It means you have to use fewer items and perform fewer operations as well.

A connection between these two devices means linking to your applications, taking phone calls, using voice recognition, as well as being able to charge the phone. All these features extremely useful, and they will make everything much easier for you.

2.3 USB Ports

A USB port allows you to connect your stereo with your MP3 player or smartphone, and you can stream music files such as MP3s or WMA. You can connect a flash drive for this purpose as well.

Some models support memory sticks of up to a certain memory. The great thing about USB ports on marine stereos is that USB charging is an option for your cell phone or any other devices compatible with the port, which is extremely useful.

2.4 Expandability

In case you want to increase the sound of your stereo, you have the possibility to expand your system into devices such as the models in our marine subwoofer reviews and marine amplifier reviews . If you plan on doing that, you need to make sure that the unit you select has all the necessary connections available. That is, of course, if you have the required space for them into your boat. There are plenty of marine stereos with this ability available on the market, so you have where to choose from.

2.5 Remote Control

This is not one of the most important features your stereo might have, but it certainly is convenient, especially for bigger vessels. Just imagine having the possibility of control your stereo from the other side of your boat. Wouldn’t that make things nicer?

You should also know that there are two types of remote controls for marine stereos. Wireless remotes do not work through infrared light. Instead, they use radio frequencies. Therefore, their signal is much more powerful, as they can emit through any obstacles such as doors, walls, and other objects.

The second option is represented by wired remotes that can be installed anywhere on the vessel. These are also extremely convenient to use and more than one can be installed, depending on your needs.

2.6 Audio Equipment Included

It is important for you to know that some marine stereos are sold just like that, but there are also options that come with the whole audio system including speakers and wires. In case you are just replacing an old stereo, you will probably want a simple stereo.

However, if you are interested in more music equipment, you should know about this option, as you might even pay less if you get the entire package, compared to buying the components separately. Also, you will be sure that they are a perfect match.

Depending on your needs, and what you already have on your boat, it is a great thing that you have various options to choose from.

How To Install/Wire a Marine Stereo System?

First, make sure that the designated hole on the dashboard of your boat fits. It is best for the unit to fit perfectly. If it is a little smaller, you risk it to bounce around when sailing, and it can easily get damaged. In case the available space is smaller or bigger, you should make the necessary adjustments. You can also purchase mounting or adaptor plates.

Once you managed to fit the device into the designated area, you can connect the cables for the receiver, but before installing it. You should secure the device and set the hardware provided for the installation.

Afterward, you can place the face panel and then turn on the device for testing. The last step would be to connect your smartphone to your new stereo and enjoy your favorite music.

FAQ About Marine Stereos

1. are marine stereos waterproof.

Marine stereos are usually waterproof or, at least, water-resistant. Unlike car stereos, these devices are constantly under a lot of pressure from the environment, and the marine environment is wet. It is impossible water not to get at your stereo at some point.

Therefore, marine dedicated stereos need to have this feature. However, since there are so many models available on the market, you should check this information before you decide on a specific unit, just to be sure.

2. How To Maintain a Marine Stereo System?

Even though marine stereos are built to withstand harsh conditions, they still need some care and attention from the owner’s part. One of the most important things you should do is keep your device away from water as much as possible. Since your boat is out on the water, this seems a bit difficult.

However, you can place the unit somewhere on the boat where it is at least covered and where less water can enter. Another very important aspect is to install the stereo properly. If you do not, water may enter the inner workings of the device. In case you are not sure about how to mount the stereo, you should ask a specialist to do it for you.

Moving on, while many marine stereos are UV-resistant, it still is best to keep the device away from the sun as well. When the boat is not in use, make sure you provide it with some shade. You can use a boat cover for that, and some models even offer UV protection also. This will protect not only your stereo but your vessel as well.

Furthermore, since a stereo is nothing without speakers, it is essential to also take care of them. They will probably be even more exposed than your stereo because they are spread around the boat. Therefore, if your speakers are exposed, you should look for waterproof options. If you pay attention to these aspects, you will be able to enjoy your stereo for a long time.

3. What Is The Difference Between Marine Stereos and Regular Stereos?

Even if you think that a normal stereo is cheaper and easier to use than a marine stereo, it is not a good option for your boat. Marine stereos are designed specifically for this purpose, and they are built to withstand the tough environmental conditions.

A regular stereo is not made the same way and, evidently, it cannot support such situations. In case you want to use a car stereo on your boat, it will not last. The weather elements which include splash water, salty air, humidity, and rain will damage the device very fast. Marine stereos are made with circuit boards that are dipped in plastic or liquid resin.

This feature seals everything, from water to air. Moreover, marine stereos are also UV-protected because they are usually in direct sunlight. A normal stereo does not have this issue, therefore its design does not need to include UV-resistant components.

As a general conclusion, marine stereos are specifically designed for the marine environment while regular stereos are not. A normal model may be cheaper, but it will not last you. In the end, you would be spending more than getting a stereo that was built for boating purposes.

4. Can You Use a Car Stereo in Your Boat?

The answer to this question is yes, you can. However, you should not. Car stereos do not have the same features as marine stereos such as water resistance or UV protection. On a boat, the device faces numerous harsh conditions such as water splashes, rain, humidity, and even salty air.

All of these are extremely damaging to the circuits. If you put a car stereo in your boat, it would probably last less than a year. Therefore, although it is physically possible to use a car stereo on your vessel, you should use a marine stereo instead.

5. What Antenna Type is Good For Marine Stereos?

Marine stereos usually come with antennas that are able to pick up signals when you reach areas where these signals are available. There are marine stereos that have a global radio tuner that can support AM and FM radio frequencies from all over the world, no matter where your current location is.

In case you want to catch a wider range of radio signals, you can also get an additional antenna. However, you need to make sure that the AUX port of your stereo is a match for the antenna’s cable connector.

After reading this guide, we strongly believe that you now understand the importance of getting the best marine stereo . As you know, the marine environment is a hard place for electronic devices. There are many elements that can cause a lot of damage. Therefore, the devices you are going to use on your boat need to be specifically designed for these kinds of conditions.

Even if you are new to boating, we hope that we have provided you with enough information so that you can get a unit that meets all of your needs. Our marine stereo reviews should also give you a good idea about the products in this line that are popular with boat owners. Now that you are all set, it is time to set sail and enjoy some good-quality music!

See also: marine speaker reviews

About Peter Richardson

Peter Richardson decided that he needs to balance out the sedentary lifestyle of a software developer by getting out there more. He found passion in none other than – boats. This website represents everything he learned along the way. Finding the right equipment for your boat is no easy task, and that is what Peter’s articles aim to help you with.

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20 Best Small Sailboats for the Weekender

• By Mark Pillsbury
• Updated: May 24, 2024

In order to go cruising, most of us require a sailboat with a head, a galley, and bunks. The boat, likely a 30-footer and more often a 40-footer, will have electronics for navigation and entertainment, refrigeration if the trip is longer than a coastal hop, an engine for light wind, and, depending on our appetites for food and fun, perhaps a genset to power our toys and appliances.

To go sailing , however, all we really need is a hull, mast, rudder, and sail. To experience the pure joy of sheeting in and scooting off across a lake, bay, or even the open ocean, there’s nothing better than a small sailboat – we’re talking sailboats under 25 feet. You can literally reach out and touch the water as it flows past. You instantly feel every puff of breeze and sense every change in trim.

Some of the boats in this list are new designs, others are time-tested models from small sailboat manufacturers, but every one is easy to rig, simple to sail, and looks like a whole lot of fun either for a solo outing on a breezy afternoon or to keep family and friends entertained throughout your entire sailing season. This list is made up of all types of sailboats , and if you’re looking for a list of some of the best small sailboats for beginners, you’ll find exactly that here.

Any one of these popular boats could be labeled as a trailerable sailboat, daysailer, or even a weekender sailboat. And while most would be labeled as a one or two person sailboat, some could comfortably fit three or even four people.

– CHECK THE WEATHER – The weather changes all the time. Always check the forecast and prepare for the worst case. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

Marblehead 22 Daysailer

If you have an eye for elegant lines and your heart goes pitter-patter over just the right amount of overhang beneath a counter transom, the Marblehead 22 daysailer, designed by Doug Zurn and built by Samoset Boatworks in Boothbay, Maine, will definitely raise your pulse. Traditional-looking above the waterline and modern beneath, the cold-molded hull sports a deep bulb keel and a Hall Spars carbon-fiber mast with a wishbone rig and square-top main. The 11-foot-9-inch cockpit can seat a crowd, and a small cuddy forward will let you stow your friends’ gear for the day. samosetboatworks.com

Catalina 22 Sport

Many a harbor plays host to an active fleet of Catalina 22s, one of the most popular small sailboats over the years, given its basic amenities and retractable keel, which allows it to be easily trailered. Recently, the company introduced the Catalina 22 Sport, an updated design that can compete with the older 22s. The boat features a retractable lead keel; a cabin that can sleep four, with a forward hatch for ventilation; and a fractional rig with a mainsail and a roller-furling jib. Lifelines, a swim ladder, and an engine are options, as are cloth cushions; vinyl cushions are standard. The large cockpit will seat a crowd or let a mom-and-pop crew stretch out and enjoy their sail. It’s clear why the Catalina 22 is one of the best sailboats under 25 feet. catalinayachts.com

With its large, open-transom cockpit and sloop rig, the Hunter 22 makes a comfortable daysailer for family and friends. But with its cuddy cabin, twin bunks, optional electrical system, opening screened ports, and portable toilet, a parent and child or a couple could comfortably slip away for an overnight or weekend. Add in the optional performance package, which includes an asymmetric spinnaker, a pole, and a mainsheet traveler, and you could be off to the races. The boat features a laminated fiberglass hull and deck, molded-in nonskid, and a hydraulic lifting centerboard. Mount a small outboard on the stern bracket, and you’re set to go. marlow-hunter.com

Not sure whether you want to race, cruise or just go out for an afternoon sail? Since 1958, sailors have been having a ball aboard the Uffa Fox/George O’Day-designed Daysailer. Fox, who in the 1950s was on the cutting edge of planning-dinghy design, collaborated with Fall River, Massachusetts boatbuilder O’Day Corp. to build the 16-foot Daysailer, a boat that features a slippery hull and a small cuddy cabin that covers the boat roughly from the mast forward. Thousands of Daysailers were built by various builders, and they can be found used for quite affordable prices. There are active racing fleets around the US, and new Daysailers are still in production today, built by Cape Cod Ship Building. capecodshipbuilding.com

BayRaider from Swallow Boats

Easy to rig and trailer, the BayRaider from England’s Swallow Yachts is a relative newcomer to the small-boat market in the United States. Nearly all of its 19 feet 9 inches is open cockpit, though a spray hood can be added to keep the forward sections dry. The BayRaider is ketch-rigged with a gunter-style mainmast. The topmast and mizzen are both carbon-fiber, which is an option for the mainmast as well. The BayRaider can be sailed with a dry hull in lighter conditions or with 300 pounds of water ballast to increase its stability. With the centerboard and hinged rudder raised, the boat can maneuver in even the thinnest water.

$28,900, (904) 234-8779, swallowyachts.com

Big fun can come in small packages, especially if your vessel of choice happens to be the 12 ½-foot Beetle Cat. Designed by John Beetle and first built in 1921, the wooden shallow draft sailboat is still in production today in Wareham, Massachusetts at the Beetle Boat Shop. With a draft of just 2 feet, the boat is well-suited for shallow bays, but equally at home in open coastal waters. The single gaff-rigged sail provides plenty of power in light air and can be quickly reefed down to handle a blow. In a word, sailing a Beetle Cat is fun. beetlecat.com

– LEARN THE NAVIGATION RULES – Know the “Rules of the Road” that govern all boat traffic. Be courteous and never assume other boaters can see you. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

West Wight Potter P 19

With berths for four and a workable galley featuring a cooler, a sink, and a stove, West Wight Potter has packed a lot into its 19-foot-long P 19. First launched in 1971, this is a line of boats that’s attracted a true following among trailer-sailors. The P 19′s fully retractable keel means that you can pull up just about anywhere and go exploring. Closed-cell foam fore and aft makes the boat unsinkable, and thanks to its hard chine, the boat is reportedly quite stable under way. westwightpotter.com

NorseBoat 17.5

Designed for rowing and sailing (a motor mount is optional), the Canadian-built NorseBoat 17.5—one of which was spotted by a CW editor making its way through the Northwest Passage with a two-man crew—features an open cockpit, a carbon-fiber mast, and a curved-gaff rig, with an optional furling headsail set on a sprit. The lapstrake hull is fiberglass; the interior is ply and epoxy. The boat comes standard with two rowing stations and one set of 9-foot oars. The boat is designed with positive flotation and offers good load-carrying capacity, which you could put to use if you added the available canvas work and camping tent. NorseBoats offers a smaller sibling, the 12.5, as well; both are available in kit form.

$19,000, (902) 659-2790, norseboat.com

Montgomery 17

Billed as a trailerable pocket cruiser, the Montgomery 17 is a stout-looking sloop designed by Lyle Hess and built out of fiberglass in Ontario, California, by Montgomery Boats. With a keel and centerboard, the boat draws just under 2 feet with the board up and can be easily beached when you’re gunkholing. In the cuddy cabin you’ll find sitting headroom, a pair of bunks, a portable toilet, optional shore and DC power, and an impressive amount of storage space. The deck-stepped mast can be easily raised using a four-part tackle. The builder reports taking his own boat on trips across the Golfo de California and on visits to California’s coastal islands. Montgomery makes 15-foot and 23-foot models, as well. If you’re in search of a small sailboat with a cabin, the Montgomery 17 has to be on your wish list.

With long overhangs and shiny brightwork, the CW Hood 32 is on the larger end of the daysailer spectrum. Designers Chris Hood and Ben Stoddard made a conscious decision to forego a cabin and head in favor of an open cockpit big enough to bring 4 or 5 friends or family out for an afternoon on the water. The CW Hood 32 is sleek and graceful through the water and quick enough to do some racing, but keeps things simple with a self-tacking jib and controls that can be lead back to a single-handed skipper. A top-furling asymmetrical, electric sail drive and Torqeedo outboard are all optional. The CW Hood 32 makes for a great small family sailboat.  cwhoodyachts.com

Sun Cat from Com-Pac

Shallow U.S. East Coast bays and rock-strewn coasts have long been graced by cat boats, whose large, gaff-rigged mainsails proved simple and powerful both on the wind and, better yet, when reaching and running. The 17-foot-4-inch Sun Cat, built by Com-Pac Yachts, updates the classic wooden cat with its fiberglass hull and deck and the easy-to-step Mastender Rigging System, which incorporates a hinged tabernacle to make stepping the mast a one-person job. If you want a personal sailboat ideal for solo sailing, the Sun Can is a great choice. Belowdecks, the twin 6-foot-5-inch berths and many other features and amenities make this cat a willing weekender.

$19,800, (727) 443-4408, com-pacyachts.com

Catalina 16.5

The Catalina 16.5 sits right in the middle of Catalina Yachts’ line of small sailboats, which range from the 12.5 to the 22 Capri and Sport, and it comes in both an easy-to-trailer centerboard model and a shoal-draft fixed-keel configuration. With the fiberglass board up, the 17-foot-2-inch boat draws just 5 inches of water; with the board down, the 4-foot-5-inch draft suggests good windward performance. Hull and deck are hand-laminated fiberglass. The roomy cockpit is self-bailing, and the bow harbors a good-sized storage area with a waterproof hatch. catalinayachts.com

No roundup of best small sailboats (trailerable and fun too) would be complete without a mention of the venerable Hobie 16, which made its debut in Southern California way back in 1969. The company has introduced many other multihulls since, but more than 100,000 of the 16s have been launched, a remarkable figure. The Hobie’s asymmetric fiberglass-and-foam hulls eliminate the need for daggerboards, and with its kick-up rudders, the 16 can be sailed right up to the beach. Its large trampoline offers lots of space to move about or a good place to plant one’s feet when hanging off the double trapezes with a hull flying. The boat comes with a main and a jib; a spinnaker, douse kit, trailer, and beach dolly are optional features. hobiecat.com

Novice sailors or old salts looking for simplicity could both enjoy sailing the Hunter 15. With a fiberglass hull and deck and foam flotation, the boat is sturdily built. The ample freeboard and wide beam provide stability under way, and the heavy-duty rubrail and kick-up rudder mean that you won’t have to worry when the dock looms or the going grows shallow. Both the 15 and its slightly larger 18-foot sibling come standard with roller-furling jibs.

$6,900/$9,500 (boat-show prices for the 15 and 18 includes trailers), (386) 462-3077, marlow-hunter.com

– CHECK THE FIT – Follow these guidelines to make sure your life jacket looks good, stays comfortable and works when you need it. Safety Tip Provided by the U.S. Coast Guard

Super Snark

Under various owners, the Snark brand of sailboats, now built by Meyers Boat Co., has been around since the early 1970s. The Super Snark, at 11 feet, is a simple, easily car-topped daysailer that’s fit out with a lateen rig and sail. Billed as unsinkable, the five boats in the company’s line are built with E.P.S. foam, with the external hull and deck vacuum-formed to the core using an A.B.S. polymer. The Super Snark weighs in at 50 pounds, and with a payload capacity of 310 pounds, the boat can carry two.

$970, (800) 247-6275, meyersboat.com

Norseboat 21.5

Built in Canada, the NorseBoat 21.5 is a rugged looking craft that comes in a couple of configurations: one with an open cockpit and small doghouse, and another with a smaller cockpit and cabin that houses a double berth for two adults and optional quarter berths for the kids. Both carry NorseBoat’s distinctive looking carbon fiber gaff-rigged mast with main and jib (a sprit-set drifter is optional), and come with a ballasted stub keel and centerboard. Because of its lightweight design, the boat can be rowed and is easily trailered.

$36,000 (starting), 902-659-2790, norseboat.com

Flying Scot

Talk about time-tested, the 19-foot Flying Scot has been in production since 1957 and remains a popular design today. Sloop rigged, with a conventional spinnaker for downwind work, the boat is an easily sailed family boat as well as a competitive racer, with over 130 racing fleets across the U.S. Its roomy cockpit can seat six to eight, though the boat is often sailed by a pair or solo. Hull and deck are a fiberglass and balsa core sandwich. With the centerboard up, the boat draws only eight inches. Though intended to be a daysailer, owners have rigged boom tents and berths for overnight trips, and one adventurous Scot sailor cruised his along inland waterways from Philadelphia to New Orleans.

Known primarily for its line of racing dinghys, RS Sailing also builds the 16-foot, 4-inch Venture, which it describes as a cruising and training dinghy. The Venture features a large, self-draining cockpit that will accommodate a family or pack of kids. A furling jib and mainsail with slab reefing come standard with the boat; a gennaker and trapeze kit are options, as is an outboard motor mount and transom swim ladder. The deck and hull are laid up in a fiberglass and Coremat sandwich. The Venture’s designed to be both a good performer under sail, but also stable, making it a good boat for those learning the sport.

$14,900, 203-259-7808, rssailing.com

Topper makes a range of mono- and multihull rotomolded boats, but the model that caught one editor’s eye at Strictly Sail Chicago was the Topaz Taz. At 9 feet, 8 inches LOA and weighing in at 88 pounds, the Taz is not going to take the whole crowd out for the day. But, with the optional mainsail and jib package (main alone is for a single child), the Taz can carry two or three kids or an adult and one child, and would make a fun escape pod when tied behind the big boat and towed to some scenic harbor. The hull features Topper’s Trilam construction, a plastic and foam sandwich that creates a boat that’s stiff, light, and durable, and shouldn’t mind being dragged up on the beach when it’s time for a break.

$2,900 (includes main and jib), 410-286-1960, topazsailboats.com

WindRider WRTango

WRTango, a fast, sturdy, 10-foot trimaran that’s easy to sail, is the newest portable craft from WindRider International. It joins a line that includes the WR16 and WR17 trimarans. The Tango features forward-facing seating, foot-pedal steering, and a low center of gravity that mimics the sensation of sitting in a kayak. It weighs 125 pounds (including the outriggers and carbon-fiber mast), is extremely stable, and has single-sheet sail control. The six-inch draft and kick-up rudder make it great for beaching, while the hull and outriggers are made of rotomolded polyethylene, so it can withstand running into docks and being dragged over rocks.

$3,000, 612-338-2170, windrider.com

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Best sailing hats: Top boating headwear from simple caps to sou’westers and helmets

• David Harding
• August 25, 2023

Whether for warmth or sun protection, going afloat means wearing a hat. David Harding picks out 12 of the best sailing hats available right now

Whatever the season, there are two staples you need for the open water. A  good pair of sailing sunglasses  and the best sailing hat for protection from the sun (especially those of us who sport low-profile hairstyles).

For dinghy and keelboat racing , many prefer a peak but no brim – a cap, in other words. And if your boat has a low boom, select a sailing hat with built-in skull protection. Being bashed on the head is painful at the very least. Besides, who wants blood on the deck?

On colder days, a sailing hat is essential to keeping you warm on the water. The ubiquitous beanie might be the obvious starting point. Don’t overlook a lined sailing hat, perhaps a waterproof option. Look out for an hat that incorporates ear-warmers and a peak.

At a glance: Henri-Lloyd Mal HL sailing cap – Best classic sailing hat  – Buy it now airSUP Bucket Hat  – Best bucket hat for sailing – Buy it now Tilley T3 sailing hat  – Best brimmed sailing hat – Buy it now DexShell Beanie Solo  – Best beanie hat for sailing – Buy it now

What makes a good sailing hat?

Some of the best sailing hats serve multiple purposes. It might have a brim for sun protection or the sailing hat could be made of a water-repellent material. Before opting for a brim, consider how wide and how stiff it should be. A wide, stiff brim might seem best in the sun, but could present a challenge when you’re ducking under the rail on a racing yacht.

Another consideration is that as much UV is reflected from the water as you’re exposed to from above. So a sailing hat in the ‘bucket’ style – with a brim that’s narrower and lower – might be more effective, if not quite as stylish. What’s more, it’s less likely to blow off in a breeze. Any style of brim that’s too floppy is unlikely to be much use in stronger winds either.

Whichever type of sailing hat you might choose, there’s plenty to think about. Here is our pick of the best sailing hats available right now in various styles.

The best sailing hats available right now

• Sailing caps
• Brimmed sun hats
• Winter hats
• Sou’westers

Classic sailing caps

Henri-Lloyd Mal HL sailing cap

Specifications:  100% Organic Cotton, one size and back strap.

Reasons to buy: Made by a high-end yachting apparel brand; fast-drying; offers a high level of UV protection.

Reasons to avoid: Cheaper options are available if the HL brand is your main consideration.

Do you like to keep it classic? A straightforward cap should be your starting point when it comes to choosing a sailing hat. If you’re anything like me, you have probably picked up such a collection from the water (oddly, most sailing caps don’t come with retaining lanyards) that we’ve never needed to buy one.

Then again, what you find floating past your boat isn’t necessarily what you would choose to wear, so if you want something new, smart and branded with one of the best-known names in sailing clothing, you might go for something like the Mal HL sailing cap from Henri-Lloyd.

Available in navy blue or pale grey, it’s made from a polyester twill that’s said to be fast-drying and offers a UV protection factor of over 50.

Buy it now from Henri-Lloyd

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence.

Gill pursuit cap.

Specifications:  100% polyester, 50+ UV protection and h and wash only.

Reasons to buy: Retaining a lanyard means you’re less likely to drop it overboard.

Reasons to avoid:  May not suit sailors with smaller heads.

Ever lost your hat looking overboard? We’re with you. The Pursuit Cap from Gill is one of the few sailing hats that comes with a retaining lanyard. A clip on the end attaches to your collar, so you’re less likely to find yourself fishing one of these out of the oggin.

Available in bright blue, dark blue, graphite or silver, it features a UV treatment of 50+ and a generously sized peak to help keep the sun out of your eyes. With features like the underside of the peak designed to absorb light reflected from the water, it’s clear to see why this would be a hit with any navigator.

Breathable fabric (polyester for easy cleaning) and a wicking headband should help you keep a cool head in the heat of battle on the race course.

Buy it now on Amazon

Best-brimmed sailing hats

Tilley T3 sailing hat

Specifications:  100% cotton, UPF 50+ and machine washable. 

Reasons to buy: Classic design, water-repellant finish; secret pocket for storing cash.

Reasons to avoid: There are much cheaper ways to keep the sun off your head.

I have been wearing these classic Tilley hats for over 15 years and am now on my third. They don’t last forever, despite the lifetime guarantee, but Tilley will replace them if/when (for those of us who practically live in them) they wear out.

The cotton duck gives good sun protection (factor 50+) and this sailing hat also has a water-repellent finish to help keep the rain off.

Padding in the top affords a degree of protection and that’s where you find the secret pocket for stashing away an emergency fiver.

The padding contributes to the buoyancy, which you might appreciate if you haven’t made use of the double head-straps to stop it from blowing off.

With its brass grommets for ventilation, and poppers for snapping up the brim on either side, the Tilley is a tried and tested titfer with a well-deserved following among sailors.

Buy it now on Tilley.com

airSUP Bucket Hat

Specifiations: Polyester, removable flap and UV sun protection.

Reasons to buy: Chin strap makes it almost impossible to lose; ear protection is a rare feature.

Reasons to avoid: Styling is reminiscent of the early 90s rave scene.

This might not be a sailing hat you would choose to wear for style alone  – but if functionality for active watersports is your priority and you prefer not to have a wide brim, it might be a good choice.

For a start, a strap that buckles under the chin means it really shouldn’t come off no matter what you’re doing on (or even in) the water.

The strap broadens out at the top to cover the ears and the side of the face too.

If you’re after further sun protection, the button-on neck flap that pulls out from an inside pocket will protect the nape. The brim is firm enough not to flip up or down in the wind or unexpected watery encounters.

Buy it now on eBay

Best beanies for sailing

DexShell Beanie Solo

Specifications:  100% polyester, micro fibre fleece lining and machine washable.

Reasons to buy: Windproof, waterproof and breathable – a beanie for all seasons.

Reasons to avoid: May not fit sailors with larger heads.

Traditional beanie hats aren’t for every sailor. Yes, they have limitations as sailing hats, but they will keep your head warm as long as you’re not out in the wind or rain (or exposed to salt spray).

That’s why this one from DexShell comes with additional features: it’s claims to be windproof, waterproof and breathable, with a waterproof membrane and microfleece lining for warmth.

The outer shell in acrylic gives the beanie its knitted look and comes in a range of colours from grey and black to cyan blue and even high-vis yellow for those who really don’t want to get lost.

SubZero Factor 4 Softshell Windproof Hat

Specifications:  97% Polyester and 3% Elastane, double thickness banding and soft fleece inner face.

Reasons to buy: Flat stitching makes for a comfortable fit.

Reasons to avoid: Shower-proof, but not fully waterproof.

With this British-made beanie from SubZero, head warmth and protection from the wind is the top priority.

The soft-shell fabric itself is waterproof, but unfortunately not the stitching, so it would be best to think of it as shower-proof.

If you are searching for an alternative that has full-water repellency, check out SubZero’s waterproof beanie.

To keep the wind and cold at bay, the Factor 4 hat has a soft fleece inner face designed to trap warm air around your head.

A double-thickness headband provides extra insulation around your ears and brow, while the flat stitching should eliminate uncomfortable rubbing – something not all sailing hat manufacturers seem to think about.

There’s no knitted look with this beanie: the windproof fabric on the outside is smooth to reduce the effects of wind-chill.

Buy it now on SubZero.co.uk

Best winter sailing hats

Sealskinz Waterproof Extreme Cold Weather Hat

Specifications:  Outer: 100% nylon | Inner: 100% polyester, sizes available: S-XXL and a micro fleece lining.

Reasons to buy: Machine washable; available in a wide range of sizes.

Reasons to avoid: Sizing comes up small – if in doubt, go one size up.

Are you searching for a sailing hat that incorporates ear-warmers and a peak that’s also windproof and waterproof? Sealskinz might have the answer.

As its name suggests, it’s designed to cope with seriously wet and cold conditions. I appreciate that the ear-warmers tuck away if needed and that the peak can be folded back and held with a popper.

Made with a waterproof breathable membrane sandwiched between an outer nylon shell for durability and a fleece inside for warmth, it comes in sizes from small to XXL.

There’s also a Velcro tab at the back to make sure of a snug fit. If it does blow off and get dirty, just throw it in the washing machine: it doesn’t need any special treatment.

Musto Fleece Lined Waterproof sailing cap

Specifications:  Polyester, r eflective printed screen and fleece lining.

Reasons to buy: Fleece lined; waterproof, windproof and breathable; taped seams should make for a comfy fit.

Reasons to avoid: Only one size available.

An alternative to the Sealskinz comes from Musto. Offered in one size it has been designed to accommodate larger heads. Available in black (or green for your country weekends), this sailing hat has good features such as fleece lining, a larger, stiffer peak, and fold-down protection for the ears and neck.

A drawstring can be secured under the chin in windy weather, but if this one blows off, you’re advised not to put it in the machine: it’s for hand-washing only.

The polyester fabric is claimed to be waterproof, windproof and breathable, with taped seams helping to make sure no water seeps in.

Musto also suggests that taping the seams eradicates stitch holes and reduces abrasion against the skin.

Best sou’wester sailing hats

Guy Coton sou’wester

Specifications: Polyester, sizes available: S-L and strong stitching.

Reasons to buy: Excellent face and neck protection; built to last.

Reasons to avoid: The Captain Birdseye look isn’t for everyone…

The sou’wester was good enough for lifeboat crews in days of yore, but has fallen from fashion in recent decades, and we don’t know why.

When you’re getting high-pressure spray full in the face, a well-fitted hood might be a more effective solution – and, being attached to your jacket, it’s always there when you want it – but even the best hoods can often be restrictive. Sometimes a proper sailing hat just feels better.

So it’s good to see that Guy Cotten, a company known for its traditional-style, and no-nonsense clothing, continues to offer the humble sou’wester in equally traditional colours: green or bright yellow.

It’s made from the company’s ‘classic fabric’ – PVC-coated polyester – which it describes as ‘extremely long-lasting, tough and cheap’.

Helly-Hansen Svolvaer Sou’wester

Specifications: PVC-coated polyester, drawstring and cotton-lined.

Reasons to buy: The most affordable option on our list, despite being from a big-name brand.

Reasons to avoid: The Guy Cotton sou’wester offers better face protection.

It says something about the practicality and appeal of the sou’wester that two of today’s better-known manufacturers of this traditional sailing hat are from parts of the world that still have a strong fishing industry.

Helly Hansen’s offering, made from PVC-coated polyester with a cotton lining, incorporates ear-flaps and has a chin strap to keep it on.

It features a shallower brim at the front than some sou’westers, with a suitably long one at the back to keep the rain well away from your neck.

Given the resurgence of retro styles in so many walks of life, perhaps a classic sou’wester would make a perfect and inexpensive Christmas stocking-filler for the practically-minded sailor who thought he or she had everything.

Best hard sailing hats

Gul Elite Watersports Helmet

Specifications: Outer: Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) | Inner: foam, lightweight and modern design.

Reasons to buy: CE compliant; plenty of ventilation; adjustable lining and chin strap.

Reasons to avoid: Unless you’re racing something seriously fast, or partaking in extreme watersports, a helmet will probably look out of place.

A sailing hat or a cap might help stop your head from getting cold or sunburned when you’re afloat, but what about protection from bangs?

It used to be rare to see sailors wearing helmets, but their use on some of today’s high-profile race boats has made them more acceptable to a wider cross-section of sailors.

Modern styling also means you’re less likely to look as though you’ve just walked off a building site.

Gul’s Elite Helmet is designed for all manner of watersports including dinghy sailing.

Complying with the CE EN 1385 standard for personal protective equipment, it has ventilation holes, a quick-release chin strap, ear protection and an adjustable liner.

The shell is made from impact-resistant ABS.

SafaSail hard sailing hat

Speficiations: Material: moulded shell to offer protection and foam padding.

Reasons to buy: Added protection without compromising on style; available in a choice of peak sizes.

Reasons to avoid: No protection for neck or ears.

For bump protection in a less obvious form than a helmet, Nauticalia’s SafaSail cap might be what you’re looking for.

At a glance it looks almost like an ordinary peaked sailing hat, but inside is an injection-moulded shell that offers similar protection to that of a building worker’s bump cap.

Foam padding should make it comfortable to wear and there’s a chin-strap to help keep it on.

If the standard peak is too long and gives you a crick in the neck when you have to look aloft, you can order the SafaSail with a shorter one.

Didn’t find what you’re looking for? Head to Amazon’s dedicated boating page for more marine products.

10 Best Sailboat Brands (And Why)

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

December 20, 2023

‍ There's no denying that sailors are certainly a passionate bunch. We’re so passionate about our boats that we always try going for the best sailboats. To make it a lot easier for you, here are the best sailboat brands.

Owning a sailboat is an indulgence that many of us only dream about but very few ever have the privilege of sailing the seas in what they can actually call their own.

While there's nothing wrong with renting a sailboat, the honor of owning one is certain what many sailors dream of.

With a perfectly crafted sailboat as company, gliding through the water, waves, and wind brings some sort of unmatched comfort and peace.

Add this to the fact that sailing takes you far away from the daily hustles and bustles that we've become accustomed to in our daily lives and you'll see why the life of sailing is very appealing to the masses.

But without a proper sailboat, all this fun and the good life of sailing are thrown out of the window.

Contrary to the widespread opinion, owning a sailboat isn't beyond anyone's reach. It's something that we can all achieve. But before getting into that, it's important to know some of the best sailboat brands.

The best sailboat brands will make your life as a sailor a lot easier and more fun. The best sailboat brands have, for decades if not centuries, mastered the art of woodworking. They've dedicated their skills and immense amount of their time to designing and manufacturing nothing but the best quality of sailboats in the industry.

So if you've been looking for the best sailboat brands from all over the world, you've come to the right place. We'll discuss the best of the best, something that will give you a perfect getaway from your normal life.

Table of contents

‍ Must-Have Features for Your Sailboat

Before highlighting the best sailboat brands, it would be appropriate to jog your mind a little with some of the features that must be available in your sailboat.

Choosing a sailboat can sometimes be a matter of compromises. In other words, it's sometimes sensible to accept that a sailboat cannot have all the features that you desire.

As such, it's all about going with a sailboat that has the features that matter to you most.

For this reason, let's look at the most basic features that can make the difference in both safety and comfort while improving your sailing experience.

A Safe and Comfortable Sailing Cockpit

You'll most definitely be spending a huge amount of time in the cockpit. Whether you're keeping watch, trimming sails , helming, or just enjoying the scenery, there's no better place to do all these than from the cockpit. That being said, a good cockpit should have the following.

• Have a good depth for safety reasons and adequate drainage
• Should give you a quick and easy access to jammers, cleats, and other important parts of the winch system
• Should have a seat or seats that are about 35 cm high, 50 to 55 cm wide to provide ideal support
• The seats should be adjustable to offer maximum comfort and allow you to change your position

GPS Chartplotter

Use a GPS Chartplotter once and your sailing will never be the same without it. It not only allows you to map a course but is also a great way of ensuring that your sailboat exactly follows that course. It also gives you constant updates on ocean conditions, weather conditions , and potential hazards such as deadly currents and sandbars.

A GPS Chartplotter is also an important safety device that can help you in some very critical situations while out there on the water.

For instance, it has a man-overboard button that is essentially meant to allow you to receive coordinates of the exact location should someone fall off your boat.

Electric Winch System

This is an amazing addition to any sailboat. It allows you to sheet a jib even in high and strong winds with a simple press of a button. It also gives you the chance of trimming a mainsail easily while still carry out other essential tasks in the sailboat.

An electric winch system can be of great importance, especially if you're short on crew. This is because it can free up some crew members to carry other important tasks. In other words, it can make duties that would otherwise require more crew members a lot easier.

More importantly, an electric winch system can maintain safety even in the roughest of conditions, thereby preventing you and your crew from getting injured. In essence, an electric winch system will make your sailing a lot safer, less stressful, and more enjoyable.

Reverse Osmosis Watermaker

This is a very valuable accessory, especially if you're going on long sea voyages. You can spend days on end without drinking clean and safe water.

As the name suggests, you can use this accessory to turn seawater into purified drinking water. It uses the reverse osmosis method that's essential not only in removing bacteria and parasites from the water but also in turning the water into purified and safe drinking water.

Even though this device is pricey, it's a great way to mitigate the over-reliance on huge water tanks. All you have to do is to ensure that it's properly maintained and you'll have an endless streak of safe drinking water no matter where you are.

Wide and Clutter-free Deck

While the deck is often an overlooked feature of a sailboat, it can be the difference between a great sailing experience and a stressful one. In essence, the deck of a sailboat should be wide enough and clutter-free.

This is significant as it can enable you to quickly access different parts of your sailboat with hindrance or getting tangled. As you can see, this is particularly important in improving safety and reducing stress.

With that in mind, make sure that the deck is organized in such a way that you can have easy access to sails, masts, and winches.

You should, therefore, avoid sailboats with decks that are designed in such a way that you have to climb on top of the cabin just to access these features. Needless to say, this can be quite unstable and very dangerous especially when conditions are rough.

The Best Sailboat Brands and Why

1. hallberg-rassy.

Hallberg-Rassy is a Swedish yacht maker that's very well-known in the blue water cruising circles for making some of the highest quality and sturdiest sailboats. For many sailors, this is the number one sailboat brand as it offers absolute comfort, utmost safety, and good and easy handling.

This brand is not only synonymous with sturdy construction but you won't worry getting soaking wet while out there on the water. This is because it has a well-protected deck and cockpit, finished with nice woodwork, and has a powerful engine with a big tankage just to ensure that you can go on long voyages.

When designing its sailboats, this brand has made it a norm to add some features that stand out from the rest. For instance, the bowsprit is an integral feature that makes sailing a Hallberg-Rassy quite easy and much enjoyable. This is because it grants easy access to and from the deck. Its electric anchor winches facilitate smooth maneuvering. Even more, its large steering wheels makes it much easier to control the boat even in the roughest of conditions. In essence, this brand has features that provide good control and an extra sense of safety.

Although this brand has evolved over the years, you'll easily recognize it even from a distance. And why is this? A Hallberg-Rassy never goes out of style. This is a unique sailboat brand that has always stayed true to its principles and concept. No matter which part of the world you go, Hallberg-Rassy will remain the undisputed king of blue water cruising.

2. Nautor's Swan

For over 50 years, Nautor's Swan has endlessly raised the sailing levels by designing and manufacturing new sailboat models that not only push the boundaries but also meet that many requirements and demands of sailors across the world. Thanks to its wide range of seaworthy, timeless, elegant, and highly-performing sailboats, the Nautor's Swan remains one of the best if not the best sailboat makers in the world.

Based in Jakobstad, Finland, this brand has severally set the industry standard with its speedy and sleek models such as the Swan 48, Swan 65, Swan 98, Swan 78, and Swan 120. These models have one thing in common: they never compromise on safety. As a brand that puts safety first, it ensures that its models are made of foam-cored glass fiber and reinforced both with carbon-fiber and epoxy. In essence, Nautor's Swan is widely revered for its unmatched seafaring and safety records.

Additionally, Nautor's Swan models are incredibly responsive. You can easily tell this just by the feel of the wheel. This brand has models that will gracefully slice through the biggest of waves with ease. That's not all; the interior of these models that are very comfortable even when the going gets tough. This is, without a doubt, a brand that strives to create self-contained worlds with each model.

3. Beneteau

This is perhaps the most selling sailboat brand in the world. For over a century now, this brand has based its models in a combination of simplicity and performance. This is a brand that will serve you just right across all latitudes and in all circumstances. Whether you prefer the Oceanis Yacht 62 or the Figaro Beneteau 3, this brand will never let you down on all fronts.

This brand revolves around a simple concept of creating a link around the world. From the deck space to its design and light, this brand does everything possible not just to uniformly transform life at sea but also to open doors to new horizons in a very luxurious yet practical way. Its models are designed with clear deck plans, stable hulls, simplified maneuvering and interior materials and equipment that can be easily personalized.

Whether you're looking for a racing sailboat or something that's designed to explore and enjoy the world in the company of friends and family, Beneteau is a true combination of sensations and simplicity. This is a brand that brings to the seas fun, simplicity, smartness, toughness, safety, intuitiveness, as well as dazzling reinvention.

4. Amel Yachts

Based on the ethos of designing and manufacturing comfortable, robust, and easy-to-handle boats, this French brand has, for over five decades, offered sailors and other sailing enthusiasts the perfect opportunity to explore the seas with the utmost quality, comfort, and more importantly, safety.

Using 100% French know-how, this brand has brought to the sailing world some of the best boats such as the Santorini, the Mango, the Super Maramu, and the Maramu. We would be doing this brand total injustice if we said that they're distinctive. Truth be told, there's nothing comparable to an Amel model. Well Amel was and still is, the ultimate standard by which other sailboat models are measured.

From items such as electric winches and furling, to generators, Watermaker , and washing machine down to the simplest of items such as towels. Spare filters, bathrobes, deck brush, and a boat safe, the Amel is in reality with what the real life of a sailor is and should be.

Although some may say that Amel still has room for improvement in terms of specifications and personalization, it cannot be denied that the Amel is a serious brand that designs and manufactures complete boats. With this brand, you'll be guaranteed of a higher degree of reliability, safety, and an edge of fun while out there on the water.

5. Hinckley Yachts

Based in Maine, United States, Hinckley Yachts is a brand that has been building robust, luxury, and safe sailboats for more than 90 years now. In its sailboat class, you'll find several sailboats that have classic shapes, inner strength, dramatic lines, and features that are absolutely essential in dealing with the challenges of the North Atlantic.

This brand has been successful in integrating impeccable craftsmanship with new technologies to ensure that their models always stand out while articulating advanced sailing practices, timeless aesthetic, robust construction, and the utmost safety. Whether you choose the Bermuda 50, the Sou'wester 53 or any model for that matter, you'll never be short of advanced performance based on the best design and technology.

In terms of features, this brand provides sailboat models with modern performance hulls. These hulls are constructed with inner layers of carbon, outer layers of Kevlar, and are aligned with computer-designed load paths. Every feature is designed without compromising comfort.

To this end, this brand offers you a perfect combination of both fun and sail. This brand offers more than just sailing. Instead, it offers a unique sailing experience that's combined with the pure joys of sailing in the blue waters with an ease of ownership and maneuverability.

6. Oyster Yachts

If you've been looking for luxury more than anything else, Oyster Yachts provides you with numerous solutions. This British brand is widely known for manufacturing a wide range of luxury cruising sailing yachts. Its sailboats are among the finest in the world and are immensely capable of taking you to some of the far-flung places in the world without having to worry about high winds and hellish waves.

Whether you choose the iconic Oyster 565 or the immense Oyster 595 you never fall short of experiencing the new world like never before. These are models that will enable you to own your adventure, choose your destination, set your courses, pick your anchorage, and stay safe at all times. If you want to hold the wheel and pull the sail while feeling the tang of salt spray on your face, Oyster Yachts is the way to go.

This is, unquestionably, a brand that's meant for you if you want to explore the seas in comfort, luxury and utmost safety. From craftsmanship, sailboat design, to hull, deck, and keel configurations, everything is designed to allow you to circumnavigate the world in comfort, elegance, and style.

7. Tartan Yachts

Based in Fairport Harbor, Ohio, there's arguably no better to begin your sailing adventures than with a sailboat designed and manufactured by Tartan Yachts. With several award-winning designs and construction, this brand is widely known for providing easy handling, great performance, and an ultimately stable platform.

This brand always strives to deliver a unique and the best possible experience to every sailor. As a brand, Tartan fully understands that every sailor has his/her unique sailing needs. As such every component of their models is designed with engineering levels that guarantee optimum performance, excellent on-deck visibility, and luxurious interior.

From the Tartan 5300, the Tartan 4300, the Tartan 345 to the New 365 and the Fantail, this brand makes it a priority to ensure that its models are among the strongest, lightest, and more importantly, the safest in the sailing industry. In essence, this brand can be ideal if you appreciate performance. It has rewarding sailing features both in narrow water lines and wider passages. Add this to its easy handling and you'll have a top-notch performer in virtually every condition.

8. Catalina Yachts

As one of the most popular boat manufacturers in the world, this American brand is widely revered for building the sturdiest boats that can hold up perfectly well in real-world conditions. These are generally family-oriented boats that are intelligently designed to ensure that your entire family can have fun out there on the water.

Some of the models include the cruiser series such as the Catalina 315, the Catalina 385, the Catalina 425 while the sport series include the Catalina 12.5 Expo, the Catalina 16.5, and the Catalina 14.2 Expo. As the current winner of the "Boat of the Year" Cruising World, you'll rarely go wrong with a Catalina model.

It offers a wide range of sailboat sizes that suits your lifestyle. This brand makes it a priority to ensure that all their models are not only safe but offer the best ownership and sailing experience. If anything, this brand is widely known to have one of the most excellent resale values in the sailing industry.

9. Island Packet Yachts

From the IP 525, the IP 439 to the IP 379, the Island Packet Yachts is a brand that encourages its customers not to keep the world waiting. This brand is meant for sailors who want to explore the world in utmost comfort and safety.

The first thing you'll notice in an IP sailboat is its large aft deck. This is not only perfect for sunbathing but can also serve you well if you want an impromptu dinner with friends and family while out there on the water. The living space is also large enough to carry most of your belongings, which is an added advantage especially if you've been planning to spend longer periods in the seas.

With modern evolution and refinement, as well as proven features, this brand is known to offer sailors maximum comfort, luxury, and safety. You'll have better access to the cockpit, have enough space, and are excellently designed to provide superior seafaring and the best features to enable you to spend extended periods when cruising.

10. Sparkman & Stephens

For more than 90 years, Sparkman & Stephens has been at the forefront of the belief that sailboat excellence goes beyond hull lines and deck plans. Instead, this brand believes in excellent naval architecture, innovation, sophistication, and beauty. This is a brand that has laid the foundation of sailboat as a sport not just in America but all over the world.

These models have graced the world for decades and bring immense pleasure to their owners in terms of innovation, performance, and excellence. Though rooted in tradition, the brand has pushed sophistication, technology, and sailing experience to a whole new level. You'll be a proud owner of the Sparkman & Stephens model.

There you have it; these are the best sailboat brands in the world. Although there are several other sailboat brands to choose from, the-above described brands stand shoulder above others in terms of quality, safety, performances and luxury.

Hopefully, you're at a much better place when it comes to choosing a sailboat that suits your lifestyle, needs, and budget .

Happy sailing!

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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3 Easy Boat Trips to Cap-Off a Well-Spent Summer in Seattle

Table of Contents

Last Updated on September 4, 2024 by Boatsetter Team

Take the most stunning nature photography of orcas and Mount Baker at Lime Kiln Point. See the “Sleepless in Seattle” houseboats and popular attractions from a unique perspective. Go trolling off Shilshole Bay for chinook with your partner-in-fishing, or go with Captain Justin and learn a Japanese fishing technique of “mooching.” Whether you’re here for the summer or you’re just visiting The Emerald City, cross these three must-do experiences off your list before the summer’s end.

Embark on your great escape

Get your camera, book a boat with captain , and head over to Lime Kiln Point State Park where orcas love to hang out and hunt for chinook. The snowy caps of Mount Baker as your backdrop is just the bonus.

Doing the tourist thing

Get on Lake Union to explore the “Sleepless in Seattle” houseboats , Mallard Cove, and MOHAI. As dusk settles, head over to Elliot Bay for the perfect Seattle selfie of the Space Needle.

For the avid outdoors person

It’s peak time for coho and chinook salmon fishing in Puget Sound . Go trolling off Shilshole Bay for chinook, jigging near Jefferson Head for coho, or allow Seattle local and Captain Justin to teach you a Japanese fishing technique called “mooching” .

Summer’s not over till the last boat day

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The 6 Best Cooling Towels To Chill Out As Temperatures Rise

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When you can’t escape the heat by diving in a pool or stepping into an air conditioned room, the best cooling towels can be a great way to temporarily cool yourself down, bringing a bit of relief from the unpleasant ambient temperature. After evaluating a variety of cooling towels, we named the South Sport Cool Rag Extreme Cooling Towel as the best overall for its lasting effects and durable material. Meanwhile, the Ergodyne Chill-Its 6602 Cooling Towel is a great bargain option for less than $20, and the Sukeen 4-Pack Cooling Towels is perfect for families or groups.

The best cooling towels can do much to help you keep your cool even in hot weather.

Readily portable, affordable and designed to be used time and time again, a cooling towel is one of those things in life that, once you’ve started using it, you’ll never want to be without again. We researched more than a dozen different cooling towels and awarded those featured here based on their cost, quality, performance and customer reviews.

• Best Cooling Towel Overall: South Sport Cool Rag Extreme Cooling Towel
• Best Budget Cooling Towel: Ergodyne Chill-Its 6602 Cooling Towel
• Best Cooling Towel For Your Head: Frogg Toggs Chilly Sport Cooling Neck Wrap & Head Band
• Best Multi-Pack Cooling Towels: Sukeen 4-Pack Cooling Towels
• Best Stylish Cooling Towel: ShakeitCool Cooling Towel
• Best Golf Cooling Towel: YQXCC Cooling Towels

Best Cooling Towel Overall

Chill that lasts, south sport cool rag extreme cooling towel.

I'm a writer based near New York City (after 12 years in LA, four in Boston, and the first 18 just outside DC). When not writing, testing camping gear, cooking, working on DIY projects, or spending time with my wife, son, and daughter, I jog, bike, sometimes get in a kayak, and look for a chance to climb mountains. I writes for several major outlets, and my novels can be found on my website here .

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Dimensions: 27 x 17 inches | Materials: Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) | Colors: 6

Pros: 

• Offers rapid, lasting cooling
• Blocks UV rays
• Bacteria-resistant material
• Unpleasant odor when new
• Smaller than other options

The South Sport Cool Rag Extreme Cooling Towel can help you keep your chill for hours on end. Soak it once, wring it out, give it a snap and the towel will immediately begin a slow process of evaporation that naturally drops its surface temperature. Pressed to your skin, that means it will start to drop your temperature, too. Durable and well-made using PVA, a material that's tougher and more resilient than the polyester and polypropylene base fibers of most microfiber cooling towels, the Cool Rag will last for scores of uses and wash cycles.

This material does have a strong chemical smell when the towel is new, so consider washing it before use. Note that the Cool Rag is more square in shape than many cooling towels, though it has about the same surface area as other towels. Some people prefer the more squared-off shape, whereas others prefer a longer, thinner cooling towel.

Best Budget Cooling Towel

Cool feel, cool price, ergodyne chill-its 6602 cooling towel.

Dimensions: 29.5 x 13 inches | Materials: Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) | Colors: 5

• Great low price
• Made in America
• Up to 4 hours of cooling per soak
• Pricing varies by color

The Ergodyne Chill-Its 6602 Cooling Towel costs less than $7, depending on which color you choose, yet it performs just as well as most other cooling towels that can cost double its price or more. Granted, some colors of the Chill-Its 6602 cost more, so you’re limited in choices if you want the cheapest option, but your neck, forehead and other body parts won’t care about towel color as they’re being cooled down. This cooling towel is made in America and is backed by a guarantee of customer satisfaction.

The Chill-Its 6602 is smaller than other cooling towels, which may partially explain its lower cost, but it still has plenty of surface area to wrap around your head. Except in very humid conditions, where all cooling towels perform less effectively, this cooling towel can offer evaporative cooling for up to four hours per soak.

Best Cooling Towel For Your Head

Frogg toggs chilly sport cooling neck wrap & head band.

Dimensions: 33 x 6.5 inches | Materials: Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) | Colors: 3

• Comfortably wraps around neck or crown 
• Can be trimmed to size
• Too narrow for good coverage

The Frogg Toggs Chilly Sport Cooling Neck Wrap & Head Band was, as the name suggests, designed specifically to be wrapped around the head or neck. It’s nearly 3 feet long but scarcely more than 6 inches wide, so it forms a thin band that provides targeted cooling to the head and neck. This towel doesn’t provide a ton of coverage, but when used as designed it will provide plenty of relief.

Pricing varies a bit by color, so you may pay more for your desired choice, but any color will provide good cooling. When you’re ready to retire the towel, you can recycle it or you can even chop it up and mix it into soil, where it will slowly break down, helping the earth around it retain moisture as it does.

Best Multi-Pack Cooling Towels

Towels you can share, sukeen 4-pack cooling towels.

Dimensions: 40 x 12 inches | Materials: Microfiber | Colors: 13

• 4 towels per order
• Multiple color options
• Pricing varies by towel colors
• Storage bags of abysmal quality

The Sukeen 4-Pack Cooling Towels is a great value, with each towel coming out to cost less than $5. Every towel included in a pack is a different color, making it easy to give each family member, teammate or work colleague their own towel and not get them mixed up. At 40 inches long by 12 inches wide, these are some of the largest cooling towels we reviewed, offering ample coverage area for your head and neck or draped across your back or chest.

Sukeen offers good cooling towels for a great price, but the included storage bags leave much to be desired. They fall apart after only a few uses, and the included carabiners are shoddily-constructed, so be be ready to find a different way to manage your cooling towels when they're not in use.

Best Stylish Cooling Towel

Stay cool in style, shakeitcool cooling towel.

Dimensions: 32 x 6 inches | Materials: Nylon/polyester | Colors: 37

• Stylish designs
• Multiple pattern options
• Good for wrapping head and neck
• Too narrow for much coverage
• Pricier than other options

ShakeitCool’s colorful and patterned towels are as eye-catching as they are cooling, actually enhancing the way your clothing ensemble looks rather than detracting. There are more than three dozen patterns to choose from, including some with more subdued colors and designs and some that are outright bright.

Long and thin, these cooling towels work well wrapped around the head or neck, but they offer the least overall coverage area of any cooling towel we’ve included, and they’re the highest price per towel, so keep those factors in mind before making a purchase.

Best Golf Cooling Towel

Keep cool on the course, yqxcc cooling towels.

Dimensions: 47 x 12 inches | Materials: Polyester | Colors: 15

• Good storage system
• Great price for 2-pack
• Often develops strong odor
• Dries out faster than other towels

A YQXCC Cooling Towel is a great choice for the golfer, not because there is anything super unique about the towels themselves (aside from the fact that they’re quite large) but because of their packaging. These towels come in large plastic tubes with lids that seal, so you can keep them moist even when you’re out playing 18 holes, no need for a sink or water fountain nearby. You can tuck a used towel back into its container and drop it into your golf bag without your gear getting wet.

These towels do tend to develop a funky odor if stored damp for too long, but it washes out just fine. And it's a good thing the containers can help the towels hold moisture, as they do dry out faster than cooling towels made of PVA. 

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The Forbes Vetted team covers a wide variety of gear topics , from workout and fitness guides to camping gear to active apparel and more. We test products when possible and always heavily research every product category we cover.

• Forbes Vetted contributor Steven John is an avid outdoorsman and regular runner and cyclist. He often uses cooling towels when hiking or exercising in hot weather, and brings one along when he is out on a kayak or in a canoe as well. As a gear reviewer, John operates his own website, Dad Gear Reviews , and has over a decade’s worth of experience testing equipment and apparel in the field.
• Forbes Vetted gear editor Cam Vigliotta is an avid outdoorsman who has extensive experience testing and using various types of gear and apparel. As a gear editor, Vigliotta has nearly seven years of experience testing gear in the field and sharing his findings with others. His work has appeared in such outlets as GearJunkie, Field Mag and REI’s Uncommon Path.

How We Chose The Best Cooling Towels

There’s not much that differentiates one cooling towel from another, so to create this list of the best cooling towels, we leaned heavily into reading through and comparing reviews and ratings left by verified buyers. We created categories based on common uses of the towels, budget, aesthetics and other considerations, and we identified which cooling towels would best fit the various categories.

Cooling towels are quite affordable, so in some cases it might be your best move to buy more than one of them. We also suggest choosing one long, thin cooling towel for your neck and head and a second, broader towel for use on your shoulders, face and other body parts.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What is the best cooling towel.

As noted, there’s truly not much that separates one cooling towel from another, so you should choose based on budget and size first and foremost. If you prefer a cooling towel that wraps around your neck or your head, a longer, thinner shape is ideal. If you want one to drape over your head, neck and shoulders at the same time, then a broader towel is a better choice.

How Does A Cooling Towel Work?

Cooling towels work because a natural byproduct of the evaporative process is a reduction temperature. As these towels slowly dry out, they also go down in temperature. When the towel is pressed against your skin, it draws heat away from your body and releases it into the atmosphere, cooling you down perceptibly.

How Long Do Cooling Towels Stay Cold?

In the right conditions, with low humidity but without desert-like dryness, many cooling towels can remain effective for three to four hours with just one soaking. In very high humidity, they may be all but ineffective, and in truly dry conditions, they might dry out in as little as a half hour. Prepare accordingly by having enough water to re-soak them on hand, and you can re-wet and reuse the same coolant towel multiple times in one day.

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• 9 Best Lateral Head Tricep Exercises

Written by Kiel DiGiovanni | Co-founder

Fact checked by Kirsten Yovino, CPT Brookbush Institute

Updated On: May 09, 2024

Your triceps play a significant role in growing serious arm muscles. And in order to fully develop your horseshoe-shaped muscle, you need to equally train your three tricep heads, which include the  long head, medial head, and lateral head.

In this article, we're going to show you how to effectively target your lateral head, including highlighting the 9 best lateral head tricep exercises , how to program tricep exercises, and  important training techniques for full tricep development (both in terms of strength and hypertrophy). 

Table of Contents:

• Programming & Training Tips
• How To Add Lateral Head Exercises To Your Routine
• Tricep Anatomy
• How To Isolate & Target The Lateral Head
• Benefits of Building Your Triceps Lateral Head

9 BEST LATERAL HEAD TRICEP EXERCISES

While all tricep exercises involve your lateral head (as they do the medial and long head too - we'll talk about this more later on in the article, under the anatomy section), some better target this portion of your triceps.

The 9 best lateral head tricep exercises are:

• Tricep Pushdowns
• Tricep Kickback
• Cable Crossbody Concentration Extensions
• Tricep Dips
• Close-Grip & Diamond Push Ups
• Decline Close Grip Bench Press
• Decline Neutral Grip DB Skull Crushers
• Cable Overhead Extensions with Rope Attachment

If you have been looking for ways to work out your outer (lateral) head tricep and add something new to your fitness routine, these different exercises can help you see the importance of this muscle group and the role it plays in amplifying your arm growth and overall physique.

1. Tricep Pushdowns (Overhand & Neutral Grip)

Tricep pushdowns are the best l ateral head tricep exercise. The lateral head is best targeted with your elbows at your side and that’s exactly what the tricep pushdown provides.

If your goal is to increase your strength along with the size of your lateral head tricep, then all you need to do is use the right attachment and grip position.

The best attachments for hitting the lateral head for tricep pushdowns are the rope, the straight bar, and a v-bar. With all three, you will (or want to have) a more narrow grip, which is best for the lateral head.

Rope = hammer grip (neutral grip)

Straight Bar = overhand grip

V-bar = partly-pronated grip (like a mix between hammer and overhand)

Another great thing to note about the pushdown is that it’s a great exercise for pushing your triceps past failure. So, be sure to implement some sets past failure with this one!

How to do the tricep pushdown:

• Grip the attachment of choice for that particular day (using one of the three grips mentioned above).Keep your chest up and lean forward before beginning the exercise to ensure your body is in the correct position. Bring your shoulders directly over the handle.
• To begin, drive the cables down until your elbows are at a full extension. Be sure to keep your elbows fixed in place and your wrists straight throughout the entire process.
• Guide the handles back to at least 90 degrees of elbow flexion and then repeat.
• Be sure to lockout in full elbow extension with each rep.

Lateral Tricep One Arm Pushdown

This is a good variation of the tricep pushdown for the outer tricep as well. It's good to change up angles sometimes so you can stress the muscle differently. 

2. Tricep Kickback

Tricep kickbacks are another great exercise for your lateral head. It’s also going to work your long head too depending on the variations (there are many ways to do a tricep kickback).

For the lateral head, the best option is the bent over position using a cable pulley or dumbbell. This has been proven to increase lateral head activation.

So, if you are trying to target the lateral head, do bent over cable or dumbbell tricep kickbacks as pictured. 

How to do the tricep kickback for lateral head:

• Using one hand, grab the base of the cable handle. Use a neutral grip. You actually don’t need any handle for this, you can just hold the bottom of the cable just above the carabiner area.
• Bend at the hips, until your torso is parallel to the ground.
• Once in the correct position, you can begin with your elbow flexed at 90 degrees, then drive the hand back into complete elbow extension. Keep your elbow fixed in place throughout the exercise.
• To complete the rep, you will then need to bring your elbow back to flexion.
• Then, repeat this with the other hand, to work both arms equally (if you are using dumbbells, you can do both at the same time, but most people find focusing on one side at a time is best).

3. Cable Crossbody Concentration Extensions

You’ve definitely heard of bicep concentration curls, but did you know you can do tricep concentration extensions? For this one, you will need to use either a cable machine or a loop resistance band .

The goal here is to keep your elbow pinned to your inner thigh and have the cable (or band) coming from the contralateral side. Essentially, you are extending your arm in a diagonal manner from the opposite side of the working arm. This will allow you to really hone in on the lateral head.

How to do the cable crossbody concentration extension:

• Set up the cable pulley at the highest level of the cable tower. Position your body so your working side is opposite to the cable tower (the cable should be crossing your body). A great set up for this exercise is to get into the kneeling position, placing the elbow of your working arm on your front inner thigh (similar to where you'd place your elbow when performing concentration curls).
• You can use a handle or no handle at all and just hold the cable at the bottom near the carabiner. You want a neutral or overhand grip either way.
• Pin your elbow into your thigh then extend at the elbow until your arm is completely straight.
• Really squeeze the heck out of your tricep then very slowly return it back up toward the opposite shoulder.
• Repeat for the desired reps and then do the same with the other arm.

Love training on the cable machine? Check out the  Best Cable Arm Exercises !

4. Bench Dips

This is a classic bodyweight tricep exercise that is great for working your lateral head tricep.

This is especially helpful for those who are new to strength training and want to build up strength to execute tricep dips (parallel handles with body suspended in air) with ease - that’s the next exercise on this list.

How to do bench dips:

• Sit down on the bench and position your hands so your palm is fully on the bench and your fingers pointing behind you.
• Come off the bench with your butt and position your body so it is perpendicular with the floor. You don’t want your body coming out at an angle.
• You can either place your legs with your knees at 90 degree (easy), straight out (medium) and up on another bench or platform (hard).
• From here, bring your body down as low as you can flexing at your elbow.
• When you reach your bottom range, press up through the palm of your hand until your arms are as straight as possible.
• Squeeze, hold and then repeat.
• Be sure to keep your core tight and engaged throughout.

If you want to take the difficulty up a notch, do this with a weight plate on your lap.

Note: You don’t need a bench to do bench dips, you can easily do these just as well with a chair!

5. Tricep Dips

While parallel bar lifts are commonly used to work the pecs, they can also help you increase the mass in your tricep, and more specifically the lateral head when positioning your body properly. Plus, almost  every gym has a dip machine.

To place emphasis on your triceps, and naturally your lateral head, you need to position your body so you are dipping with your back upright (for the chest, you want to lean forward).

Now, if you don’t have the strength for this exercise, you can just focus on bench dips, albeit this dip is not exactly the same.

If you don’t have the strength to perform this, you can two options:

• You can either use a resistance band to assist you by looping it on the handles and then putting your knees on top of it. The wider the band, the more help it will provide.
• You can just use the assistance platform that comes with most dip machines at gyms. As you progress, you can use less and less weight assistance, which is controlled by the weight stack pin system near the bottom of the machine.

At some point, you'll be able to do tricep dips without any assistance.

When you are able to do more high reps for multiple sets, it’s time to take things up a notch. To do this, you just need a dip belt. With that, you can attach plates to the belt and then dip with added weight.

A make shift option is to just hold onto dumbbells with your feet by crossing them and having someone place the dumbbell in the crease of your two calves.

How to do tricep dips:

• Step up onto the feet platforms (if it has them) and then place your hands on the handles so your palms are facing in.
• Using your strength, lift your body off of the floor and allow yourself to balance upright with straight arms.
• Keeping your torso upright, lower down flexing at the arms as far as you comfortably can (you want to go to or a little past parallel).
• Then, press up until your arms are fully extended.

Check out our article on the  Best Dip Exercise Alternatives  for more great variations.

Tricep Pressdown Machine

If you have access to a tricep pressdown machine, which many gyms have, this is another great way to work your lateral head tricep. The mechanics are similar to a tricep dip, but you can easily control the resistance using the pin weight stack system.

6. Close-Grip & Diamond Push Ups

If you are in search of a simple yet effective exercise that will target your lateral head tricep, diamond push-ups are one of the best options out there. Plus, this exercise doesn’t require any equipment so anyone can do it, whether you are working out at home or in a gym.

If you have issues with your shoulder joint, then you can spread your hands a little bit, using a close grip instead. Both are good for the lateral head.

How to do diamond push ups:

• To begin, you will need to create a diamond shape with your index fingers and your thumb, hence the name diamond push-up.
• You will then need to get on the ground in preparation for a push-up with your hands under your lower chest or abdomen, in a high plank position.
• Keeping your body straight, you can lower down to the ground by bending your elbows.  Then, you can push up from the ground while fully extending your elbows and repeat.
• Remember to keep your hips level so that they do not drop or shift and your core is tight at all time. Your body should be like a straight, solid board.

7.   Decline Close Grip Bench Press

Whether you are an aspiring bodybuilder or you are simply looking to bulk up your triceps, the close grip bench press is one of the best exercises you can do. This is a pure mass builder.

You’ll want to start your workouts with this one as it involves heavier weight and higher energy levels.

In regards to the triceps, while the close grip bench press is truly an all around tricep exercise, it can be done in a way that better emphasizes the lateral head.

To shift emphasis from the long head, which the close grip bench press is great for, do it on a decline bench. The decline bench will better target the lateral head.

How to do decline close grip bench press:

• Set the bench to a -15 degree decline.
• If you have a squat rack or a specific decline bench press you can do this with a barbell, if you only have the bench and dumbbells, that’s fine too.
• Lie on the bench and retract your shoulder blades so they are pressed into the bench.
• While keeping your shoulders down, lower the db or barbell and then press back up to full extension. Don’t let your shoulders come up. Try to keep the movement strictly at the elbow.

8. Decline Neutral Grip DB Skull Crushers

If you are in search of a tried and true tricep exercise, look no further than EZ bar or barbell skull crushers . But, if you want some lateral specific work, then use dumbbells and hold them with your palms facing in. And, to take matters even more into the lateral heads “hands”, use a decline bench at about -15˚.

How to do decline neutral grip dumbbell skull crushers:

• Lie on a bench with the dumbbells held firmly in an hammer grip, palms facing in, with your hands shoulder-width apart.
• Next, stretch your arms overhead with your wrists stacked to take the pressure off of them while you flex through the movement.
• Be sure to keep your elbows tucked and your upper arms still, lowering the weight toward your head until you are at a 90-degree angle.
• Pause and squeeze the triceps before extending back into the starting position.

Pro tip: Make sure you start with a lighter weight until you are comfortable with this exercise. Focus on good form first and foremost.

9. Cable Overhead Extensions with Rope Attachment

While the overhead tricep extension is more of a long head exercise (because it stretches the long head due to its attachment point on the shoulder), you can make it long-lateral head focused by using a rope extension with a narrow grip.

You’ll be hitting both the lateral and long head effectively at the same time.

How to do cable overhead extensions with rope:

• Set the cable pulley to the bottom most position. Attach the rope attachment.
• With your arms shoulder-width apart and your core tightened, bring the rope overhead with your elbow pointing straight up. You can do this from a kneeling position if it's better (and if you are tall). Face away from the machine.
• From here, allow your elbows to flex so your hands come down behind your head.
• When you arms go past 90 degrees (you can flex your elbow even more for a greater stretch), extend at the elbows until your arms are completely straight, raising them above your head.
• Slowly return to the starting position and repeat. Keep your core tight and elbows fixed in the overhead position at all times. Your upper arm should not have much movement at all, it’s your forearms that are moving.

Want to build massive triceps and pack on pounds of muscle? Check out our SFS Hypertrophy Program developed by Garett Reid (NSCA, CSCS, CISSN, M.S.E.S.S).

Prepare to maximize your gains with our exclusive 12-week hypertrophy training program. Choose between a 4 or 5 day training split and gain 2-12 pounds of muscle over 90 days...

Programming Lateral Head Exercises: WHAT TO DO IF Your LATERAL TRICEP HEAD IS NOT GROWING?  

There’s two likely reasons that your triceps, and more specifically, your lateral head of the tricep is not growing.

• It’s quite possible that your diet is simply not on point. Without eating right, you will not grow your muscles. But that’s a whole other topic so we will just leave it at that.
• In terms of exercising, it’s important that you are overloading the muscle when working out. This comes down to rep schemes, weight load, and total volume .

So, let’s go over each of those points.  

Best Rep Range & Load for Lateral Head Tricep:  

This might surprise you, but the triceps respond very well to low reps and heavy weight. This is because they have a higher ratio of fast twitch muscle fibers. About 67% of the muscle fibers are fast twitch.  

That said, you still need to work through various rep ranges. You can’t just do heavy weight with low reps. But, i f you aren’t doing heavy weight for low reps, then you need to start. A lot of people think of the triceps as a muscle that best responds to high reps.

This is how you should split up your rep ranges for lateral head triceps training:

• 50% in the 10-20 rep range
• 25% in the 5-10 rep range
• 25% in the 20-30 rep range

In regards to the weight load, use a weight that challenges you in the given rep range, meaning brings you near or to failure . For most tricep exercises, you can bring yourself to failure without much concern for safety or injury.

PRO TIP: Push past failure sometimes. Your triceps can handle it. When you feel you reached failure, try your best to get one or two more reps in, even if it means a little sloppy of form (but take this with a grain of salt, as you don’t want to do anything that will get your injured...this generally applies to exercises like pushdowns and extensions, which are relatively injury risk free.  

Best Volume for Triceps:  

In terms of volume, it is going to depend on where you are at in your fitness journey.  

• Beginners: 10-12 sets per week.
• Intermediate: 16 sets per week.
• Advanced: 20 sets per week.  

So, if you are doing 20 sets per week, remember to do about 50% of those sets in the 10-20 rep range, 25% in the 5-10 rep range, and 25% in the 20-30 rep range.

Now, it needs to be understood that you do not and ideally should not do all of these sets in one training session. These can be split into 2-4 training session per week. The triceps typically recover quickly, so this should be no problem. Just remember that you’ll have to juggle your tricep training with your chest and front delts , as if your triceps are not recovered, it can impede your chest and delt training.  

Give this a try for 8-12 weeks and then see how you’ve progressed.

TRAINING TIPS & TECHNIQUES FOR TRICEP GROWTH:  

Here are some more training tips for you to grow your lateral head tricep.

1. Prioritize the Lateral Head Tricep

If you want to prioritize your lateral head tricep in your workout, it is essential to include different exercises like kickbacks or overhand-grip pressdowns in your routine, but there are other ways to make sure you are targeting this muscle successfully.

To start, it can be extremely helpful to train your triceps after a rest day . With this strategy, you will need to arrange your training split to fit a new routine, but by taking a rest day before you work your triceps, you can prepare your body to work hard at the gym.

One of the worst feelings is being unmotivated and tired when heading to a training session, but with the right amount of rest days, a good night’s sleep, and a well-rounded diet or nutrition plan - you will be more than energized when heading back to the gym. While working out is important, rest days are what keeps your body going, to become stronger and healthier over time.  

2. Start Your Triceps Routine with a Multi-Joint Movement

Multi-joint exercises, also known as compound exercises, are performed at best when your energy levels are high, which will usually be at the beginning of your workout routine. Multi-joint exercises will have two sets of joints working, such as a close-grip bench press where the shoulder and elbow joints are moving together.

Once you start to tire out, you can then utilize single-joint movements to continue your training.

3. Include Multiple Lateral Head Exercises in Your Routine

Oftentimes workouts are created to work all different parts of a muscle or area of your body, but if you are trying to focus on your lateral head tricep then it can be helpful to incorporate multiple exercises into your routine that targets this muscle especially .

Remember to mix it up and utilize exercises that differ from one another, to make sure you are taking the proper steps to achieve your fitness goals.  

4. Try Something New

Even if you are working on targeting a certain muscle group, it will still be important to switch up your routine by adding in new lateral head exercises you may not have tried before . This will not only save you from getting bored by the same routine but it will allow you to work your muscle in a variety of ways which will be slightly different than you were used to previously.  

Avoid a mundane, boring routine - have fun with your workouts, try new things, and make your training sessions even more energizing and beneficial to your body.

To successfully work toward strengthening, stabilizing, and bulking up your lateral head tricep, it will take persistence, motivation, and resilience. By utilizing all the best exercises and following these training tips, you will be prepared to take on your new training routine and reach your goals with ease.

5. Use Various Exercises and Equipment  

If you want to achieve optimal results with your training routine, it can be beneficial to implement different types of exercises and equipment into your workouts . Even though you may favor one exercise over another, be sure to switch things up and find different ways to target the tricep throughout your routine.  

To make sure your workout is productive and never boring, mix things up or try something new.

The best equipment to use for the triceps are dumbbells , cable machine, barbell, kettlebells , and resistance bands .

6. Improve Form  

While doing lateral head exercises, having the proper form will be crucial. By keeping your elbows tucked to the side and staying in control of your movements, you will be able to maintain the perfect form during your workouts.

Pro tip: Use a mirror or find a workout partner to help you make sure you are using the right form and doing everything correctly to target your lateral head.  

7. Allow Time For Rest and Recovery  

With intense training, you are breaking down your muscles so that they can grow back even stronger than before, but this can only happen if you allow your body adequate time to rest afterward. While working out plays a key role in bulking up and gaining muscle, recovery is just as important too.   

HOW TO ADD LATERAL HEAD TRICEP EXERCISES INTO YOUR ROUTINE  

If you want to maximize your workouts and gain muscle in your arms at the same time, then you need to add lateral head tricep exercises to your current workout routine. While it is important to work on different parts of your body to develop your ideal physique, having an arm day or hitting the triceps multiple times per week will be essential.

Remember what we said about volume...

• Advanced: 20 sets per week.
• 25% in the 20-30 rep range  

At least a third of the above volume applies to the lateral head. But, if you feel your lateral head tricep is lagging, you can increase that.

As for how you split up that volume, there are many ways to go about it.  

If your arms are a priority, then you will want to do a split as follows:  

Split Option 1:

• Chest/Tri Day
• Back/Bi Day
• Shoulder/Tri Day
• Rest for two days and repea  

Split Option 2:

• Chest/Back Day
• Leg/Shoulder Day
• Rest one day and repeat.

Note: For the above, you will want to throw ab exercises in where you can.

Split Option 3:

• Chest/Shoulder Day
• Legs/Tri Day

All of the above options will allow you to really bring up some lagging triceps. Notice that none of these splits include a specific  lateral head tricep workout, but instead, give your tris more attention through chest workouts and arm days.

Find a schedule that works for you and your lifestyle, to create a workout routine that will keep you motivated and dedicated as you progress on your fitness journey. Always use a workout split that allows you to recover and feel refreshed for the muscles you will target during your next workout.  

WARM UP YOUR ELBOWS BEFORE WORKING OUT

When you are performing isolation exercises such as diamond push-ups, tricep kickbacks, or overhead extension, it can be tough on your elbows. To prepare your joints for the workout ahead, it can be helpful to warm up your elbows at the beginning of your routine.

To start, do a couple of very light sets of any tricep exercise you want before you start to work on this muscle group.  

This  Dynamic Warm Up  is also great for warming up your entire body!

TRICEP ANATOMY

We've covered the best exercises, programming tips, and splits, so now let's take a closer look at your triceps. The triceps, more formally known as the triceps brachii, is a three-headed muscle that is located in the back side of the upper arm.

This muscle, which makes up around 60-70% of your upper arm mass (move aside biceps!),  is a biarticular muscle, which means it acts on two joints. The two joints being the elbow and the shoulder.

In regards to the three tricep “heads”, this simply means the muscle has three separate attachment points, which  are called the long head, medial head, and lateral head .

The triceps is only a biarticular muscle because of the long head’s attachment, which crosses the shoulder joint. The medial and lateral head only act on the elbow joint. This is an important aspect of the tricep brachii to note as it helps you to understand the function of the tricep as a whole and how the different heads are emphasized during certain tricep exercises.

TRICEP FUNCTION

All three heads work together to fulfill the muscle’s primary function - extension above the elbow.

As for the long head of the tricep, it also acts on the shoulder, so it will assist in movements that involve shoulder adduction and extension. It also helps to stabilize the shoulder joint.

Since this post is about the lateral head, we will now focus mainly on the lateral head.

LATERAL HEAD OF THE TRICEP:

The lateral head tricep is considered to be the strongest tricep head, contributing to a big portion of the strength in your upper arms when working against resistance, and  is located on the outside of the upper arm.

The lateral triceps brachii muscle , along with the long head, form what is commonly called the horseshoe look of the tricep. That is, if the two heads are well-developed. The lateral head makes up the outside portion of the horseshoe-like shape.

Having a well developed lateral head will make your triceps very aesthetically pleasing.

The great thing about the lateral head (and the long head) is that it has a lot of growth potential, unlike the medial head. This doesn't mean the medial head isn't important (because it is for strength and stability at the elbow), it's just that the lateral head and long head deserve more attention in terms of aesthetics due to their greater potential for growth and the fact the medial head often gets enough work from compound pressing exercises alone. 

The lateral heads main job is to perform elbow extension (meaning straightening your arm from a flexed position). However, the lateral head only becomes active to a significant degree when the triceps push against resistance. If not going against resistance, it’s really just the medial head making elbow extension happen.

All in all, anytime you extend your elbow against resistance, your lateral head is activated and helping to power the movement. This means any tricep exercise (elbow extension exercise) you do in the gym or at home will activate the muscle fibers of the lateral head.

CAN YOU ISOLATE THE LATERAL HEAD OF THE TRICEP?

It is literally impossible to isolate a single head of the tricep. This applies to the long, medial, and lateral head. However, you can emphasize a certain tricep head by selecting certain exercises (like the lateral head tricep exercises we went over earlier in this article) or altering how you do an exercise. Essentially, certain exercises, arm positions, and grip positions will shift emphasis to certain tricep heads, but all three will be activated to some degree no matter what you do.

IMPORTANCE OF EMPHASIZING THE THREE TRICEP HEADS:

For beginners, it may not seem important to worry about emphasizing the different heads. Just do some tricep exercises and that’s it right?

Actually, that’s kind of true. As a newbie, you will see good gains no matter what. But, as you become more advanced, and you really want to build big, well-defined triceps, it’s vital that you hone in on each the three heads of the tricep . By doing so, you can develop some seriously impressive looking triceps. Moreover, you build the greatest and most well-rounded strength in your triceps, which will help you in other exercises like bench press and overhead press, or your respective sport. This means better gains in other areas of your body too!

For beginners, we still recommend that you learn this now, as you can obviously see even greater newbie gains than if you didn’t.

HOW TO BEST TARGET THE LATERAL HEAD OF THE TRICEP

To give your triceps the greatest strength potential and see the best possible development, you will first need to know how to specifically target each head of the tricep. So, let’s go over the ways you can emphasize your lateral head tricep, and then briefly touch on the other two heads as well.

Lateral Head:  

To target the lateral head using lateral head tricep exercises, you will want to do the following:

• Perform tricep exercises that keep your arms at your sides.
• Using an overhand grip and neutral grip when doing tricep exercises will allow you to emphasize the lateral head more. If you combine the two (elbows at your sides with an overhand or neutral grip), you will be giving your lateral head the best possible activation.
• Examples of exercises that follow the above parameters are: Tricep pushdowns with rope attachment, tricep kickbacks, and tricep dips.

Another way to better target your lateral head is to extend your elbow at an angle that moves your forearm toward the lateral side. For example, crossbody pushdowns or extensions.

The lateral head works closely with the long head as well, so exercises that involve bringing your elbows out in front of you, behind you, or above you, while more so a long head tricep exercise, will do a good job of activating your lateral head too. If you use an overhand or hammer (neutral) grip, your lateral head will be even more emphasized. For example, neutral grip dumbbell skull crushers or close grip bench press.

The long head of your tricep will have the greatest activation when your elbows are overhead (because your long head will be working from a stretched position), out in front of you, or up behind you.  i.e. overhead tricep extensions , skull crushers, prone incline kickbacks, bench dips. You can see more great long head moves in our article on the  Best Long Head Tricep Exercises .

Note: Bench dips and tricep dips (parallel handles) equally work the long head and lateral head.

Medial Head:

The medial head of your tricep will receive the greatest activation when your elbows are at your sides and you are using an underhand grip. i.e. reverse grip pushdowns and reverse grip bench press.

It will also be activated during exercises that emphasize the long head and lateral head, but just at certain points in the movement. For example, the medial head kicks in more at the top of a dip. Check out the  Best Medial Head Tricep Exercises  for a better understanding of which moves best work this part of the triceps.

All in all, if you focus on these training variables, which include angles (how you position your body and where the resistance is coming from), grip position (underhand/overhand/neutral), and arm/elbow position, you can hone in on specific tricep heads.

BENEFITS OF LATERAL HEAD TRICEP EXERCISES

Here are a few great reasons why it's smart to train your lateral head.

• Aesthetics : The lateral head tricep adds a lot to the appearance of the arms due to its visibility from the back and the side. When this muscle is well-developed it will help your upper arm develop a better shape. After all, it makes up one half of the horseshoe look that a fully developed tricep creates. With a big lateral head, you will have triceps that can be seen even from the front! Sounds like reason enough to perform lateral head tricep exercises!
• Compound Pressing Exercises : The lateral head of the tricep plays a crucial role during the top range of motion when bench pressing. If your lateral head is weak, you will have trouble towards the lockout when doing bench press , especially when trying to use heavy loads. The same is true for other compound presses, like overhead press , jerks, and push presses . If you have a strong lateral head tricep, you will be much stronger in the lockout phase.
• Elbow Stability & Health : The lateral head plays a key role in the health and resilience of your elbow. The strong it is, the more stable your elbow will be during any activity.

Besides those three specific things, incorporating  a  lateral head tricep exercise  or two into your program will lead to a stronger, bigger lateral head, meaning stronger, bigger triceps as a whole. This will allow you to increase your overall strength, stamina, power, muscular endurance , and injury resilience in weightlifting, sports, and life.

Lateral Head Tricep Exercises: Key Takeaways

Let's end with a few pointers that will help you take your triceps to the next level.

• You can’t completely isolate any one tricep head using lateral head triceps exercises , but you can emphasize a single head with certain exercises, arm positions, grip positions, and you should be doing this if you want the best possible development of your triceps.
• Tricep exercises that keep your elbow at your side and/or use an overhand or neutral grip will emphasize the lateral head.
• Incorporate various rep ranges and weight load for your triceps exercises .
• Aim for 12-20 sets of triceps per week with at least one third emphasizing the lateral head.
• You can split up the above volume (sets) in throughout the course of the week.

All in all, don’t be afraid to step out of your comfort zone and try something new, adding what works best for you to your workouts. Also, push yourself. You need to train smart AND hard.

By taking advantage of these lateral head exercises, you will be able to see optimal strength and hypertrophy results in your triceps, which in turn will improve other areas of your fitness.

Don't neglect your other tricep heads.  Target them using the best  Medial Head Triceps Exercises  and  Long Head Triceps Exercises  for serious horseshoe-muscle growth.

Kiel DiGiovanni

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The Best Part of ‘Beetlejuice’ Is Catherine O’Hara’s Iconic “Day-O” Performance 

Where to stream:.

• Beetlejuice
• catherine o'hara

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Chris hemsworth, jennifer lawrence and more slated as oscars 2024 presenters, catherine o’hara joins ‘the last of us’ season 2, bryan cranston tells andy cohen “you’re not gay” after he says he knows what the stanley cup is on ‘wwhl’.

Michael Keaton is about to make your millennium, because Beetlejuice 2 —aka Beetlejuice Beetlejuice —opens in theaters this weekend. And that makes this the perfect time to revisit the best scene from the original Beetlejuice : Catherine O’Hara and the rest of the cast lip-syncing along to “Day-O (The Banana Boat Song).”

The original Beetlejuice movie, which you can watch streaming on Max , was directed by Tim Burton and written by Michael McDowell and Warren Skaaren. Like many Tim Burton films, Beetlejuice injects horror tropes with a dose of absurdity and silliness. Nowhere is that more true than in the scene where the poltergeist Betelgeuse possesses Catherine O’Hara and her family, in an attempt to scare them out of their new home.

If you need a refresher: Delia Deetz (O’Hara) and Charles Deetz (Jeffrey Jones) are fed up with their teenage daughter, Lydia (Winona Ryder), who claims she’s communicated with ghosts in their new house. The Deetz invite some friends over for dinner, and Lydia brings up the ghosts again. Delia scolds her daughter for spreading nonsense… then, suddenly, opens her mouth as wide as it can go. “Day-O (The Banana Boat Song),” a traditional Jamaican folk song, blasts from Delia’s mouth like a record playing through a phonograph.

The dinner guests stare as O’Hara launches into a full-bodied lip sync and choreography. Jones, too, is pulled from his seat and forced to join O’Hara in her dance. The other guests (with the exception of Ryder, who is spared) find their limbs being yanked around in a sort of back-up dance.

But the real star of the show is O’Hara. She nails her ridiculous choreography with clean, precise movements and lip-syncs with perfectly-timed, exaggerated enunciation—all while maintaining a look of abject horror on her face. After all, she’s not willingly dancing to “Day-o (The Banana Boat Song).” The ghosts are forcing her to sing about wanting to go home! That’s surely a unique acting challenge, and O’Hara more than rises to the occasion.

It’s a hilarious, weird scene that’s perfect for a hilarious, weird movie. Let’s just hope that the new Beetlejuice movie once again puts O’Hara’s lip-syncing skills to good use. Ru Paul could never!

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