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Wind Vane Self Steering Gear

A wind vane self steering system is not an essential piece of equipment on a sail boat.

However, for anyone who sails alone or cruises short handed over long distances the benefits can be immeasurable.

Long tricks at the helm are exhausting, concentration wanes, essentials such as eating, trimming sails, navigating, sleeping etc are neglected.

Besides that, with a self-steering system set and the sails trimmed you will have time to relax and really enjoy the ride.

About Self Steering.

The Basic Mechanics.

Types of vane., building your own vane..

Your Comments

Self Steering Wind Vanes

The first time that a wind vane was used to cross an ocean it was on a motorboat, or so I'm told.

Today however, electronic auto pilots are much more reliable at holding a course and the power to drive them is not an issue as most engines are fitted with alternators which constantly produce electricity.

However, a wind vane gear is best solution for a sailing boat and not just because of the power issue.

Wind direction offshore tends to remain relatively constant over long periods, but there are always constant minor variations and gusts.

In order to keep the sails drawing at maximum efficiency, while maintaining a set autopilot course, they would have to be constantly trimmed.

Wind vanes on the other hand will slavishly follow any wind shifts, a good one will often do it better than most humans and do it for hour after hour without tiring.

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As well as not requiring any battery power, the windvane does not have any complex electronics which, will be vulnerable to damp and that are unlikely to be repairable without spare parts.

Many of the simpler vane gears can usually be repaired or rebuilt using non-specific parts and lashings.

And you can even build one by yourself.

Prior to the development of windvanes long distance sailors such as Joshua Slokum and Eric and Susan Hiscock relied on their boat’s natural ability to bold a course.

Others used systems of blocks and lines between the sails and the tiller.

One of the most common used setups for downwind sailing was using poled out twin headsails, with the sheets lead back to the tiller so that when the pull on one sail increased, the tug on the tiller would bring the boat back on course.

These methods required the sails to be set for balance rather than speed, which is fine for the cruising sailor.

However, the increased interest in long distance short handed racing prompted the development of vane gears.

In the first Singlehanded Transatlantic Race in 1960 all five entrants used vane gear.

The whole point of a wind vane steering gear is to provide feedback to the rudder so that the boat can remain at a set angle to the wind, 'in the groove'.

This will not be a steady compass course but a constant point of sail.
First you sail the boat on the desired compass heading.
Then you trim and balance the sails for this course.
Once the boat is trimmed the vane is set and the gear engaged to steer the boat on that point of sail.

So how does it work?

There are numerous variations to the mechanics of the linkages types of vane etc but they all work on the same basic principle.

The vane is set so that it is feathering when the boat is in her groove.

Any variation to this angle to the wind will cause the vane to rotate.

The linkages then transmit this rotation to the rudder in such a way as to bring the boat back on the desired heading.

With the boat back on its correct heading the vane and thus the rudder will return to its original position.

In theory the vane could be mounted anywhere where the wind across it is unobstructed.

However it has somehow to be connected to the rudder by some form of mechanical linkage, so the most logical position for it is on the transom.

And it is the linkage which performs the magic.

When the boat drifts off the wind the vane will rotate or flip with the wind, this movement then must be transmitted to the rudder as a turn in the opposite direction.

In the case of a simple vertically rotating vane, as the boat turns clockwise away from the wind direction the vane will rotate in and anti clockwise direction relative to the boat.

This rotation then needs to be transmitted to the rudder to turn it clockwise, relative to the boat, this will then turn the boat anti clockwise until she is back in the groove.

Once set up a vane gear can be very effective.

Setting up is however a matter of getting the balance correct.

Like your sails the wind vane needs to be set according to the apparent wind, the sails rudder and vane need to be in balance.

Because the vane is subject to the apparent wind it will be less effective on a run and in light airs.

In the very simplest of self steering vane gears as the vane pivots the movement is transmitted via lines directly to the tiller.

On others the vane acts directly on a secondary rudder.

However the force provided by a wind vane alone is rarely sufficient to make this system work with large boats.

To overcome this, variations such as the servo pendulum system, invented by "Blondie" Hasler have become widespread.

These systems harness the power derived from the motion of the boat through the water to help turn the rudder.

Vertical Trim-tab
Horizontal Trim-tab
Vertical Servo-pendulum
Horizontal Servo-pendulum

Vertical-Vane Trim Tab.

This is without doubt the easiest wind vane self-steering device to understand and build.

The vane is vertically pivoted and controls a trim tab on the rudder.

This can be either the main rudder or an auxiliary one.

I had this type of gear on my previous boat and it took me far and wide.

It isn't the most accurate of gears however with some judicious use of bungee to dampen any tendency to yaw it served me well.

Not only is it simple to build and operate but its very simplicity gives it an uncomplicated elegance.

When I built the new rudder for Mignonne I designed it so as to incorporate the vane gear.

Horizontal-Vane Trim.

This horizontal vane gear also operates on a trim tab.

However the vertical vane is set by turning it on its turret until the vane stands as nearly vertical as possible.

Because it tilts proportionally to strength as well as direction of the wind it is a more powerful version of the vertical-vane.

And there is less tendency for the boat to yaw.

Vertical- Vane Servo-pendulum.

On the vertical-vane servo-pendulum invented by Blondie Hasler, the vertical wind vane is connected to the servo blade.

As the pendulum, or servo blade, is turned by the vane it is forced aside by the its movement through the water.

It is this force which is then transferred to the tiller or wheel by means of the linkage.

The main advantages are that the stronger the wind, the faster the boat speed, the greater is the force is applied to the rudder.

Horizontal- Vane Servo-pendulum.

The servo-pendulum with a vertical wind vane has become the standard for most commercially produced wind vane systems.

While there are differences in their methods of transmission, the basic principle is the same.

The most popular among cruising sailors is the Monitor because of its rugged construction and because most parts can be fabricated and repaired relatively easily.

While these commercially produced systems are robust, perform silently and very near flawlessly on all points of sail, they are very expensive.

The easiest and least expensive type of boat to fit a wind vane to is one like Mignonne which has a transom-hung rudder and tiller.

This uses the vane to control a small trim tab on the trailing edge of the main rudder.

The trim-tap controls the main rudder in the same way a trim-tab works on an aeroplane wing.

As the tab turns in concert with the vane, the rudder is deflected in the opposite direction thus turning the boat.

If you are designing your own vane, whatever the style there are several details to keep in mind.

The vane must be as sensitive as possible, which usually means large and light.
Friction must be kept to a minimum, preferably with non corrosive bushing such as Teflon.
The tab needs to be narrow and deep yet clear of the bottom of the rudder to avoid damage.
Whatever linkage you use should not be affected by movement of the main rudder.

The vane I have used on Mignonne was inspired by an idea from one of Lin and Larry Pardey’s books.

Rather than use the usual plywood panel I made a wooden frame to support a sailcloth vane.

My vane like the rest of the boat is still very much a work in progress and the present vane really needs to be larger, I knocked it together from off cuts and leftover bit of sailcloth.

However, creating it to look like a small mizzen sail has the added advantage of fitting it into the overall look of the boat.

Also the light weight needs less of a counterbalance.

My main fear from using a trim-tab was how it would be affected when motoring astern.

The usual advice is to have a locking device to center the tab, but I know from experience how easy it is to forget something like that until it is too late.

So what I have done is attack the tab with enough clearance between it and the trailing edge of the rudder to allow it to rotate through 360 degrees.

This type of trim-tab also seems to work best where there is an angle between the axis of the rudder and tab pivots and if the linkage is sited where these cross.

Because the trim-tab turns in the same direction as the vane the linkage is direct.

The only provision needed is a method of allowing the vane to be set according to the wind direction.

I used a disc of a Tufnol like material which was relatively easy to shape yet is hard wearing, I have heard of someone who used a bicycle drive cog to good effect.

The latch is just a piece of metal hinged so that its own weight causes it to engage and it is controlled with a simple lanyard.

My greatest fear about using the wind vane is if I should fall overboard and have to watch my boat merrily sailing away form me.

OK, that can happen without self steering which is why I always (well nearly always) clip on when I'm sailing alone.

I have read suggestions about trailing a long line with a float on the end, umm, that’s ok if you are able to swim to it in time to catch it, I’ll stick to my harness and safety-line thanks.

And remember that while a wind vane might do a great job of helming your boat it won't keep a lookout, that’s still your responsibility .

However, I have found that being relieved of the need to helm allows me more time to look around.

And on the subject of looking around don’t forget that extra bit of gear sticking out of the transom when docking mooring and going astern.

Also remember that your vane can only react after the boat has moved off course, it isn’t able to anticipate the sea conditions or wind shifts.

If you do need to make an emergency course change the wind vane mechanism should be easy to disengage.

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The Boothby-Hasler Self-Steering Windvane

In a previous article ( read here ) I detailed the construction of a Hasler-type self-steering windvane for my own 31-foot gaff cutter. Attributed to the late Blondie Hasler of Jester fame, this type of windvane is a remarkably simple device which will steer a sailboat by holding her to a constant apparent wind angle (which is what all self-steering windvanes do, or are supposed to do). In terms of ruggedness, simplicity, and cost effectiveness, this type of vane excels. It does, however, come with disadvantages, first and foremost being that it can only be implemented on a boat with an outboard (stern-hung) rudder.

But given that your craft does have an outboard rudder, is this type of windvane a good choice for the short-handed ocean cruising sailor? After having circled the world with an Aries vane, and now having sailing some 50,000 miles with my home built Hasler-type vane, my answer to that question is yes. However, it has taken me quite some time to get the Hasler-type vane to steer anywhere near as well as the Aries did. After nearly a decade and about 25,000 miles of ocean sailing I have developed a system I call the Boothby-Hasler-type vane, which will steer my own boat very nearly as well as the old Aries did.

Who Needs a Self-Steering Windvane?

I have had several people tell me that their boat will actually steer itself, sans windvane or autopilot (and the boat is a monohull). When I press them for details, usually I will find out that they were sailing with the wind forward of the beam, either close hauled or close reaching. Now there have been some sailors able to get their craft to self-steer on all points of sail with the helm lashed, as Joshua Slocum famously did with Spray , but these are the exceptions. Most boats will become directionally unstable once the wind gets aft of the beam. Let us understand why this is so.

Consider our sailboat on a close reach. Nearly all sailboats will have a touch of weather helm in such conditions, which means that if we let the tiller go she will naturally round up into the wind. To balance this off we have the helm lashed slightly “up”, that is, with the rudder blade trying to steer her away from the wind (i.e. toward a greater apparent wind angle).

Now to get our boat to self steer in these conditions, we will have our sails just slightly under-trimmed, particularly the mainsail. Let us now consider what happens when our craft starts to wander off course.

First, consider the case where she wanders further off the wind. Now our slightly under-trimmed sails are full of wind and the increased pressure causes her to heel more. An increased heel angle will correspond to an increase in weather helm. This is because, as shown in Fig. 2, the forward component of the Center of Effort (CofE) of the sails shifts outboard and to leeward with an increased heel angle, thus increasing the lever arm from the centerline (where generally opposing drag is situated) which corresponds to an increased torque trying to round the boat up into the wind. This increased weather helm is now stronger than our offsetting “up” helm, and so will cause the boat to round up slightly, thus correcting the wander.

Note: there is also the issue of the underwater flow pattern which changes as the boat heels. This is an extremely complex subject, so suffice it to say that generally the more the boat heels, the more she wants to round up into the wind.

Now consider the case where she wanders closer to the wind. The slightly under-trimmed sails now are even more under trimmed, perhaps now with the luff of the headsail visibly bubbling. The decrease in pressure causes her to stand up straighter, and with less heel angle comes less natural weather helm, hence our bit of up helm is overcompensating and steering her back away from the wind, and thus once again correcting the wander.

Well by now we might be thinking that we picked a gem, that our craft has no need for an expensive, complicated windvane nor a power hungry autopilot. Confident, we apply the same strategy on a broad reach, but to our disappointment the boat starts rounding up into the wind until her sails are luffing and she is nearly stopped. Or to our dismay she tries to sail herself through a jybe.

Why will our boat no longer self-steer? Recall that we are on a broad reach, so the sails are full of wind. Looking at Figs 1-3, we see that trimmed sails exert a force vector on the boat emanating from the combined center of effort of the sails and that this force vector has two components, one pointing dead ahead, which is what is pushing the boat forward, and an orthogonal component pointing directly to leeward, the component that causes a monohull to heel. Moreover, the closer the boat is sailing to the wind, the greater the leeward component. We know from experience that our boat heels the most when sailing to windward, and not at all when going dead down wind.

Once again, let us consider separately the two cases in which the boat wanders off course. First we consider the case where the boat is on a broad reach and begins to wander further off the wind, toward a run. Now as the boat bears away, the leeward component of the CofE becomes less and less, until she comes onto a run, where the leeward component of the CofE is zero (see Fig. 4). As before, generally the less the heel angle, the less the amount of natural weather helm, hence our up helm lashing on a broad reach is probably overcompensating as she bears away–which, instead of correcting the wander, is now contributing to it. This could lead to an uncontrolled jybe if no one gets to the helm in time.

Now consider the second case where the boat begins to round up from a broad reach toward a beam reach. As this happens the leeward component of the CofE is increasing, causing her to heel more, which is increasing the amount of natural weather helm (also the apparent wind speed will increase some as we are no longer sailing away from the wind, which further increases heel angle). This begins overpowering our up helm lashing, and the boat continues to round up until the sails begin to luff. Possibly at this point, with the sails now luffing and the boat standing back up straight, the lashed helm will begin to steer her back off the wind, but I find with my own boat that she has lost so much speed at this point that the rudder does not have sufficient bite. She’ll just wallow about with the sails flogging until I take over on the helm again.

So to sum up, when the wind is forward of the beam, the opposing forces of natural weather helm and our helm lashing are self balancing, steering the boat toward the wind when she wanders away, and away from the wind when she wanders too close. But when sailing off the wind, e.g. on a broad reach, the opposing forces of natural weather helm and our helm lashing are no longer self correcting, and so either a helmsman or some kind of mechanical steering device will be required to keep her on course.

The Boothby-Hasler-type vane

The first time I sailed with the newly installed Hasler-type vane on my own boat I discovered its flaw, a flaw which would take me several years and thousands of miles to solve. The Hasler-type windvane has a tendency to over steer the boat, especially when broad reaching. Before we get into this, let us first review how this windvane works.

This windvane consists of four primary parts: an air paddle, an engaging mechanism, a shaft, and a trim tab mounted on the trailing edge of the boat’s rudder (see Figs 5a and 5b). When not in use, the air paddle can rotate freely about the shaft above the rudderhead, and the trim tab can freely trail behind the rudder.

Consider the case when we are sailing on our desired course which has us, say, on a close reach. To get the windvane to steer the boat, we simply engage–in my case, clamp–the air paddle to the shaft. Let us understand how this device will now steer our boat.

Figures 6a and 6b illustrate the case where the boat wanders closer to the wind. As the apparent wind moves forward (at a closer angle to the boat’s heading) the air paddle rotates the trim tab in the same direction as the change in apparent wind. With the water flowing over the trim tab, and the fact that the trim tab has a good deal of leverage over the rudder, this will cause the trim tab to rotate the rudder in the opposite direction as the trim tab rotation. This is what we want. Referring to Figures 6a and 6b, we see that when the apparent wind rotates counter-clockwise , the self-steering device rotates the rudder clockwise –which alters the boat’s course in a counter-clockwise direction. Hence the self-steering device is steering the boat so as to restore the original apparent wind angle.

Should the apparent wind shift clockwise instead, the air paddle will turn the trim tab clockwise which will rotate the rudder counter-clockwise. This will in turn steer the boat clockwise–once again restoring the original apparent wind angle.

Note that unlike our previous balancing act with sail trim and helm lashings, the mechanics of the self-steering windvane work the same regardless of what point of sail we are on. Whether our boat is close hauled, reaching, or running makes no difference. The windvane is always steering the boat such that it remains at constant angle to the wind.

Now the problem I have come across with this type of windvane is not that it doesn’t steer, but that it steers a bit too vigorously. Contributing to the problem in my case was that my original trim tab was too large. I have since remedied this problem, the trim tab appears to be the correct size–any smaller and it will not have sufficient thrust to move the rudder. Yet still the problem remains that when the trim tab moves the rudder by a change in apparent wind, there is typically a lag time between the rudder response and the air paddle returning to it’s original attitude. And during this lag time the steering vane tends to overshoot the course correction and end up needing another correction back the other way. Sometimes this can result in a kind of feedback loop which has the boat swerving left and right.

Perhaps an example would help to clarify the over steering problem. Say I am sailing on a beam reach (90 degrees true), so the apparent wind is say 80 degrees. Now she wanders off the wind a bit so that the apparent wind is now 95 degrees. This roughly rotates the air paddle and trim tab by 15 degrees, which pushes on the rudder causing it to “helm down” (push the tiller to leeward), or steer the boat back toward the wind. However, due to the aforementioned lag, the boat will not only come back to 80 apparent (90 true), but frequently overshoot it before the air paddle registers 80 apparent again. Hence the boat may be at 65 apparent (80 true) before the air paddle catches up. But now the boat is sailing too close to the wind, and so it causes the rudder to helm up, steering her away from the wind but overshoots again, ending up at say 110 true before is corrects yet again, and on and on.

This is what is meant by over-steering. By moving the rudder too far, too fast, it causes the boat to steer a slalom course, to “steer against itself”. So what is needed is to slow the windvane response down, to decrease the amplitude of the rudder corrections so that when the boat has returned to its original heading the air paddle has had a chance to catch up and say “ok, we’re back on course, I can rest now”.

The simplest and most intuitive way to decrease the amplitude of rudder/tiller movements is by attaching shock cords. I discussed this in my previous article. While this certainly helped, and I sailed with this arrangement for many miles, the shock cords were directly countering–fighting against–the action of the trim tab. In brisk conditions, with the boat moving near hull speed, these forces are considerable. The result is that it wore out shock cords quite quickly and put unnecessary strain on the tiller, rudder, pintles and gudgeons. Harkening back to my physics days, I would say that this is a simple but not elegant solution to the problem.

So instead of fighting the trim tab, how about implementing some sort of re-centering mechanism on the trim tab which decreases the amplitude of tiller movements and slows down the course corrections? So for example if the boat is balanced with the tiller 5 degrees “up”, then we want some arrangement so that whenever the tiller moves either side of this orientation the trim tab wants to push it back to its balanced setting while still allowing the air paddle enough freedom to steer the boat. Such was the genesis of the Boothby-Hasler Self-Steering Windvane.

Let’s have a look at Boothby-Hasler first, then I shall explain how it works.

Looking at Figure 7 above we see that Boothby-Hasler is identical to the Hasler vane except for the addition of a trim tab tiller and a set of shock cords. Simple as that.

Let’s now examine how it works. Let’s begin with the vane disengaged and the boat is sailing at a decent clip. Now say I helm up, that is, I push the tiller to windward (toward the top of the screen). This will rotate the rudder clockwise . As seen in Fig. 8 below, this will pull on the leeward (toward the bottom of the screen) shock cord and slacken the windward one. Pulling on the leeward shock cord pulls on the leeward half of the trim tab tiller, rotating the trim tab in a clockwise direction. Recall from earlier that the trim tab will rotate the rudder in the opposite direction, hence a clockwise rotation in the trim tab will cause a counter-clockwise rotation in the rudder. Thus: we pushed the tiller to rotate the rudder in a clockwise direction and the attached shock cords to rotated the trim tab also in a clockwise direction, which in turn rotated the rudder counter-clockwise–back to it’s original orientation. And so we now have our centering “return the tiller to its original setting” bias effected by the trim tab.

So now we can engage the air paddle with our Boothby-Hasler shock cords suitably tensioned (and sized–this will of course vary from boat to boat). The windvane still operates in the same way as the Hasler detailed above, but the tiller movements are being contained and dampened by the re-centering effect of the shock cords on the trim tab tiller. I find that this will effectively slow down the course correcting by the engaged windvane so as to prevent over steering, and with far less stresses and strains than the more crude method of attaching the shock cords directly to the tiller.

The Evidence

Below is a short video I put together which I hope illustrates the behaviors of Hasler, Hasler with shock cords direct to the tiller, and Boothby-Hasler, respectively.

OK, now for some hard numbers. In an effort to quantify the relative performance of Hasler vs. Boothby-Hasler, I conducted the following tests. Over the course of a 3-minute time period I recorded the vessel heading as indicated by the GPS every 10 seconds, as can be seen in Table 1 below. While perhaps a bit crude, as there is slop in the ongoing GPS calculation of the vessel’s heading, nonetheless it appears adequate for our purpose.

I ran three such sets of tests. The first test compared the two self-steering setups on a broad reach in 10-15 knots of wind. The results are shown in Graph 1.

Where wander is the difference between the heading recorded (in degrees True) at each 10 second time stamp and the average course steered over the 3-minute test period. Average course steered for both tests was about 140 T. I then compared the standard deviation (square root of the variance) of the wander between the two tests. In this case, Boothby-Hasler’s standard deviation was about half that of Hasler–a considerable reduction in the wander.

The second set of tests were conducted with the boat on a beam reach in 6-8 knots of wind. The results are shown in Graph 2 below:

On a beam reach, in this case, there was little difference between the two setups. Indeed when close hauled or close reaching I have noticed that both arrangements work well, which should not be too surprising, for as we discussed earlier, many boats will maintain their heading without any mechanical steering device when the wind is forward of the beam.

I conducted the third set of tests once again on a broad reach with the wind around 10 knots. The results are shown below in Graph 3:

Once again we see that Boothby-Hasler really shines on a broad reach, where the std dev of the wander of Boothby-Hasler is about one third of Hasler.

Admittedly my sample size is small. More tests are needed in a greater variety of conditions. Also I am only working with one boat, my own. Nonetheless, these three sets of tests, combined with the video evidence, combined with several thousand miles of sailing with it, I think already make a compelling case that Boothby-Hasler significantly improves the performance of a Hasler-type self steering windvane. And it is still something you can put together in your garage with materials purchased from your local chandlery and/or hardware store.

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Wind Vane Self Steering: The Ultimate Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 20, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer: wind vane self steering

Wind vane self steering is a mechanical device used on sailboats to maintain a desired course without the need for continuous manual adjustment. It utilizes the force of the wind and a vertical axis to steer the boat by adjusting the position of the rudder.

How Wind Vane Self Steering Works: A Comprehensive Guide

Title: How Wind Vane Self-Steering Works: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Autonomy

Introduction: Sailing is the epitome of freedom, embracing the unpredictable elements as we navigate vast oceans. However, when embarking on long journeys or overnight trips, the need for reliable self-steering systems arises. Enter wind vane self-steering! In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into this ingenious system, explaining its principles and mechanics while highlighting its benefits for seafaring enthusiasts. So hoist your sails and embark on a journey of knowledge as we unravel the inner workings of wind vane self-steering.

Chapter 1: The Basics of Wind Vane Self-Steering 1.1 Understanding Sailboats’ Balancing Act: – Explaining the importance of maintaining equilibrium between the sail and rudder configurations. – Highlighting challenges faced when manually helming during long passages.

1.2 Introduction to Wind Vanes: – Defining the wind vane as an autonomous steering mechanism driven by apparent wind direction. – Detailing their various components such as vanes, sensors, gears, and linkages.

Chapter 2: Principles Behind Wind Vanes 2.1 Apparent vs True Wind: – Unveiling the distinction between apparent and true wind direction. – Describing how wind vanes utilize apparent wind to adjust course.

2.2 Weight vs Force Systems: – Distinguishing weight-driven systems (servo pendulum) from force-driven ones (auxiliary rudder). – Discussing pros and cons of each system in different sailing conditions.

Chapter 3: Mechanics of Wind Vane Self-Steering 3.1 Servo Pendulum System: – Unveiling the engineering marvels behind servo pendulum systems. – Analyzing their interaction with changing winds and seas.

3.2 Auxiliary Rudder Systems: – Detailing the mechanism of auxiliary rudder systems, their hydrodynamics, and adjustability. – Discussing how they maintain sailboat course while minimizing yaw.

Chapter 4: Installation and Utilization Tips 4.1 Installing Wind Vanes on Different Sailboats: – Providing step-by-step instructions for mounting wind vanes. – Highlighting considerations for various boat designs and sizes.

4.2 Calibration and Fine-Tuning: – Elaborating on the importance of accurate calibration to ensure precise steering. – Offering pro tips to optimize performance under different sailing conditions.

Chapter 5: Advantages and Limitations 5.1 Benefits of Wind Vane Self-Steering: – Presenting the advantages of autonomy, reduced energy consumption, and enhanced safety during long-haul sailing trips.

5.2 Considerations in Complex Sailing Conditions: – Identifying limitations related to challenging weather patterns or narrow channels, necessitating manual intervention.

Conclusion – Navigating the Open Seas with Confidence: Wind vane self-steering systems revolutionize long-distance sailing by providing sailors with a reliable automated alternative to constant helming. Understanding the principles, mechanics, and installation tips outlined in this comprehensive guide will empower seafarers to navigate vast oceans with confidence, leaving them more time to revel in the beauty of their surroundings. Embrace the freedom that wind vane self-steering offers–the transformative companion for every true sailor!

Wind Vane Self Steering Explained: Step by Step Process

When it comes to sailing, one of the most essential tools for achieving steady and reliable course keeping is a wind vane self-steering system. This mechanism harnesses the power of the wind to effectively steer the vessel autonomously, ensuring sailors can enjoy a smoother and more hands-free sailing experience. In this blog post, we will delve into the step-by-step process of how wind vane self-steering works, unraveling its inner workings and highlighting its benefits.

Step 1: Understanding the Basics

Before we dive into the intricacies, let’s start with the fundamentals. A wind vane self-steering system consists of three main components: a wind vane, a linkage mechanism, and auxiliary steering gear. The wind vane acts as a sensory organ that detects changes in wind direction while transmitting these signals to the linkage mechanism. The linkage mechanism then translates those signals into appropriate movements, which are eventually transmitted to auxiliary steering gear responsible for adjusting sail trim or rudder angle.

Step 2: Wind Vane Sensitivity Adjustment

Once you’ve set up your wind vane self-steering system on board your yacht or sailboat, it’s crucial to fine-tune its sensitivity for optimal performance. By adjusting the weight distribution or adding counterweights to your wind vane, you can achieve precise responsiveness according to prevailing weather conditions. This careful calibration ensures that even subtle nuances in wind direction are accurately detected by the wind vane.

Step 3: Setting Course

Now that your system is finely tuned, it’s time to set your desired course manually using traditional methods such as compass bearings or GPS coordinates. Aligning your vessel towards this designated course provides initial guidance for your wind vane self-steerer.

Step 4: Autonomy Engaged

As soon as you activate your wind vane self-steering gear, you enable an autonomous sailor’s best friend. Once the wind vane starts detecting any deviations from your initial course, it sends signals to the linkage mechanism, instructing it to make corrections. This process ensures that your vessel automatically adjusts its heading to maintain the desired course against external factors such as wind shifts or gusts.

Step 5: Continuous Monitoring

While wind vane self-steering handles most course corrections independently, it does require regular monitoring to avoid any potential issues and make minor adjustments as needed. It is crucial to stay vigilant and keep an eye on how your self-steering system performs with changing wind conditions and other environmental factors.

Benefits of Wind Vane Self-Steering

Now that we’ve dived into the step-by-step process of wind vane self-steering, let’s explore its advantages:

1. Hands-free Sailing: With a properly calibrated and functioning wind vane self-steering system, sailors can free themselves from continuously holding the helm, affording a more relaxed sailing experience.

2. Increased Safety: Wind vane self-steering reduces fatigue in long ocean crossings by maintaining a steady course, minimizing human error risk at times when crew members might be physically exhausted.

3. Energy Efficiency: By utilizing the power of nature (the wind), a wind vane self-steerer requires no fuel consumption or electricity input for operation, making it an environmentally friendly and cost-effective solution for long-distance voyages.

In conclusion, the step-by-step process behind a wind vane self-steering system involves understanding the basics of its components, adjusting sensitivity levels, setting an initial course manually while enabling autonomy through continuous monitoring. This technology not only enhances safety but also allows sailors to enjoy hands-free sailing while embracing Mother Nature’s forces to keep their vessels on track efficiently. So why not embrace this clever innovation and sail away into effortless adventure?

Frequently Asked Questions about Wind Vane Self Steering

Frequently Asked Questions about Wind Vane Self Steering: Unlocking the Secrets to Effortless Sailing

If you’ve ever been on a sailing adventure or have spent any time around seasoned sailors, you’ve likely heard of wind vane self steering devices. These ingenious contraptions have sparked curiosity and interest among many sailing enthusiasts, but like any new concept, questions tend to arise. In this blog post, we will dive deep into the frequently asked questions surrounding wind vane self steering systems and shed light on their working principles. Get ready to unravel the science behind these mechanical marvels!

Q1: What exactly is a wind vane self-steering system?

A wind vane self-steering system is a mechanism designed to keep a sailing vessel on course without manual intervention from the helmsman. This device utilizes the power of the wind to maintain a steady heading even in challenging weather conditions. By harnessing wind pressure and utilizing specially shaped vanes, wind vane self-steering systems elegantly counterbalance forces acting on sails and rudders.

Q2: How does a wind vane self-steering system work?

The operation of a wind vane self-steering system revolves around one fundamental principle—using apparent wind angles and force to steer the boat. Typically mounted at the stern of a vessel, these systems consist of an arrow-shaped vane that reacts to changes in apparent wind direction. As the breeze shifts or fluctuates in intensity, subtle movements in the vane are transmitted via lines or linkage mechanisms to adjust the position of an auxiliary rudder at the boat’s stern.

When the boat begins deviating from its intended course due to shifting winds, turbulence, or waves, this auxiliary rudder automatically adjusts itself according to variations in apparent wind angles detected by the main vane. Consequently, as long as there is sufficient breeze available for propulsion, these systems effectively maintain precise navigation even during extended periods at sea. It’s like having an invisible helmsman tirelessly steering your vessel, allowing you to relax and enjoy the journey.

Q3: Are wind vane self-steering systems compatible with all types of boats?

Wind vane self-steering systems are highly versatile and can be installed on a wide range of sailboats. Whether you have a small, single-handed cruiser or a larger ocean-going yacht, there is likely a system that suits your vessel. The main considerations when choosing the right wind vane self-steering system for your boat include size, weight, balance, and how well it integrates with the existing rigging setup. Manufacturers provide detailed guidelines and support to ensure compatibility with various boat designs.

Q4: Can wind vane self-steering systems handle different weather conditions?

Absolutely! Wind vane self-steering systems are designed to thrive in diverse weather conditions and adapt to changing environments. Whether you’re facing calm seas or rough waters with strong winds, these remarkable devices remain stable and steadfast in their coursekeeping abilities. However, it is essential to learn about any limitations specific to the model you choose based on sailing experience and intended use.

Q5: Are wind vane self-steering systems difficult to install?

While installing a wind vane self-steering system may require some technical know-how, most reputable manufacturers provide comprehensive manuals and guidance materials tailored for DIY installations. However, if you prefer professional assistance or lack the confidence in setting it up yourself, seeking help from expert marine technicians is always an option worth considering.

In conclusion, wind vane self-steering systems offer sailors an unprecedented level of autonomy on their voyages by effortlessly maintaining course while they sit back and take in the panoramic beauty around them. Their ingenious working principles elegantly leverage wind power to navigate through uncharted waters. Embracing one of these marvels on your own sailing adventure might just be the key to unlocking new levels of sailing satisfaction. So, batten down the hatches, set your sails, and let the wind vane self-steering system be your faithful navigator on this extraordinary journey!

Mastering the Art of Wind Vane Self Steering: Tips and Techniques

For sailors navigating the vast blue oceans, wind vane self-steering systems are an invaluable tool. These impressive devices not only alleviate the stress of manual helm control but also empower sailors to sail solo or in small crews with ease. However, mastering the art of wind vane self-steering requires more than just installing the equipment – it demands practice, knowledge, and a cunning understanding of its intricacies. In this blog post, we will delve into the depths of wind vane self-steering, providing you with tips and techniques that will have you sailing like a seasoned pro.

Understanding the Basics:

To begin our journey towards mastering wind vane self-steering, let’s start by unraveling its fundamentals. A wind vane self-steering system essentially functions based on an aerodynamic principle: it utilizes changing winds to adjust your boat’s course automatically. The device consists of a wind vane mounted atop your vessel’s stern along with various lines and connections to your ship’s wheel or tiller.

1. Sail Trim is Key:

Properly adjusting your sails plays a crucial role in maximizing the efficiency of your wind vane self-steering system. Ideally, before engaging the device, ensure that your sails are appropriately trimmed for optimal performance based on existing weather conditions. Fine-tuning this aspect will allow for smoother operation and minimize any unnecessary strain on both boat and gear.

2. Get Acquainted with Your System:

Understanding how every component in your wind vane self-steering system works is vital for seamless operation. Familiarize yourself with all cables, lines, blocks, attaching points, and mechanical adjustments within your setup through careful study of instructions provided by manufacturers. Additionally, consider practicing installation and removal procedures before setting sail to save time during maintenance or repairs at sea.

3. Devise Efficient Linkages:

Connecting your wind vane to the ship’s wheel or tiller requires creating a linkage mechanism that transmits the vane’s signals accurately. Carefully select and adjust mechanical linkages, ensuring that they offer proper responsiveness and minimal play. Remember, any slack in these connections will decrease accuracy and compromise performance.

4. Experiment with Tension:

Fine-tuning the tension on your wind vane’s lines is essential for achieving optimal response. Experiment by adjusting the tension – both tightness and looseness – of these lines based on prevailing conditions such as wave heights, wind strength, course changes, or boat speeds. This flexibility allows you to adapt your wind vane self-steering system according to real-time situations and enhance its efficiency.

5. Observe Nature’s Cues:

Nature can be an exceptional teacher when it comes to utilizing wind vane self-steering systems effectively. Observing how wind shifts affect your vessel’s course during different weather patterns will help you develop a keen sense of understanding impending changes in wind direction. By balancing this observation with data from meteorological sources or barometers, you can anticipate shifts ahead of time, allowing for precise adjustments even before they happen.

6. Make Incremental Adjustments:

Once your wind vane self-steering system is activated, it is essential not to make abrupt adjustments unless absolutely necessary. Instead, opt for small incremental changes when altering course or sail trim. Gradual adaptations ensure smoother transitions without overwhelming the device with sudden demands.

7. Continuously Monitor Performance:

Constant vigilance is key while learning to master your wind vane self-steering system completely. Continuously monitor its performance by observing your boat’s behavior relative to sea conditions (weather helm, leeway). Appropriate awareness combined with timely tweaks ensures efficient operation throughout extended voyages.

8. Seek Expert Advice:

When seeking mastery over any subject matter, there is no substitute for expertise gained through experience and shared wisdom. Engage with sailing communities, forums, or seek advice from seasoned sailors who have honed their skills in wind vane self-steering. Their firsthand experiences and clever tricks will provide invaluable insights to propel your learning curve forward.

In conclusion, mastering the art of wind vane self-steering is a journey that requires practice, experimentation, and understanding. By grasping the basics, fine-tuning sail trim, learning your system inside-out, observing nature’s cues, and making incremental adjustments while monitoring performance attentively, you can unlock the true potential of this remarkable piece of sailing technology. So hoist your sails high and let the wind vane guide you towards a new realm of solo or small crew sailing prowess!

Choosing the Right Wind Vane Self Steering System for Your Boat

When it comes to sailing, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of gliding through the open waters, with the wind in your hair and the sun on your face. However, navigating a boat can be a challenging task, especially when you’re all alone out on the vast ocean. That’s where wind vane self steering systems come into play.

A wind vane self steering system is an invaluable piece of equipment that allows sailors to maintain course without having to constantly adjust their sails or helm. This automated system harnesses the power of the wind to steer the boat, freeing up valuable time and energy for sailors to focus on other important tasks.

But with so many different options available on the market, how do you choose the right wind vane self-steering system for your boat? Here are some key factors to consider:

1. Boat Size and Weight: The first thing you need to take into account is the size and weight of your boat. Wind vane self-steering systems come in various sizes designed to accommodate different vessels. It’s important to choose a system that is specifically built for boats within your size range to ensure optimal performance and stability.

2. Ease of Installation: As a sailor, you want a wind vane self-steering system that can be easily installed without requiring extensive modifications or additional support structures. Look for systems that come with clear installation instructions and minimal hardware requirements.

3. Weather Conditions: Sailors know that weather conditions can change rapidly at sea. Therefore, it’s essential to select a wind vane self-steering system that can handle a wide range of weather conditions – from light breezes to heavy winds and high seas. Look for systems that are durable and capable of maintaining control even in challenging weather scenarios.

4. Sensitivity Adjustment: Every boat handles differently based on its design and load distribution. To ensure precise control, choose a wind vane self-steering system that allows you to adjust its sensitivity to match your boat’s characteristics. This flexibility will enable you to fine-tune the system for optimal performance and responsiveness.

5. Reliability and Durability: When you’re out on the open water, you rely heavily on your equipment. Therefore, selecting a wind vane self-steering system from reputable manufacturers known for their reliability and durability is crucial. Look for systems made from high-quality materials that can withstand the harsh marine environment for years to come.

6. Cost: While cost should never be the sole determining factor, it’s still an important consideration when choosing a wind vane self-steering system for your boat. Evaluate different options and compare their features, performance, and price tags to find the best value for your money.

Now, armed with these essential considerations, you can embark on finding the perfect wind vane self-steering system that suits your boat and sailing needs. Remember to carefully research different products and consult with fellow sailors or experts if needed. With the right wind vane self-steering system onboard your boat, you’ll experience smoother sailing adventures like never before!

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Wind Vane Self Steering

Introduction:

Wind vane self-steering systems are a remarkable solution for sailors aiming to harness the power of the wind to navigate their vessels. By allowing the wind to guide the boat’s rudder, these systems reduce manual effort and provide a more reliable means of steering. However, like any piece of equipment, wind vane self-steering systems can sometimes encounter common issues that require troubleshooting. In this blog post, we will delve into some possible problems and provide professional, witty, and clever explanations on how to overcome them.

1. Lack of responsiveness: One frustrating issue that sailors may encounter with wind vane self-steering is a lack of responsiveness. If your system seems sluggish or fails to react promptly to changes in the wind direction, there are a few potential causes.

Explanation: Just like us humans after an indulgent Thanksgiving dinner, wind vanes can become lethargic too! The most common culprit for unresponsiveness is excessive friction within the system caused by wear or improper lubrication. To tackle this issue, start by giving your system a good inspection. Look for any signs of wear on bearings and joints while applying lubrication generously where needed (Think spa day for your wind vane). If this fails to resolve the problem, it might be worth checking if any foreign objects or debris have made their way into critical components – just imagine trying to navigate gingerly during peak pollen season!

2. Oscillations and instability: Unwanted oscillations or instability in your self-steering system can make sailing feel like riding a bucking bronco! This issue can be concerning and potentially dangerous if left unresolved.

Explanation: Imagine you are attempting to steer straight but your trusty wind vane has gained an affinity for dancing instead – quite embarrassing! The primary reason behind oscillations and instability is often an imbalance between sensitivity settings and sail trim (imagine mismatched dance partners). Adjusting both variables can help find the sweet spot. Additionally, thicker or heavier sails may contribute to excessive oscillations, so it might be time to reassess your sail wardrobe and consider adopting a lighter ensemble for smoother sailing (we all deserve a wardrobe makeover now and then!).

3. Misalignment and wandering: Has your wind vane suddenly decided to become an explorer, sailing in any direction other than the one you intended? Misalignment and wandering can occur due to various factors.

Explanation: Picture this – you want your wind vane pointing north, but instead, it decides it wants to discover hidden treasures in the opposite direction – quite the rebellious spirit! Misalignment is commonly caused by incorrect installation or loose connections between the wind vane and the boat’s rudder. Ensure that all parts are securely fastened with the precision of a complicated jigsaw puzzle (but without the frustration). When resolving misalignment issues, imagine you are showing your wind vane some tough love – tighten those nuts and bolts until they can’t even think about misbehaving!

Conclusion: While wind vane self-steering systems generally offer efficient steering solutions for sailors, encountering common issues is not uncommon. By understanding these challenges and implementing our witty troubleshooting advice, your wind vane will be back in shape in no time. Remember, a witty approach combined with professional expertise ensures smooth sailing both on water and through blog posts!

Practical Boat Owner

Digital edition

Hebridean wind vane: testing the DIY self-steering gear

July 18, 2024

David Pugh assesses the build-it-yourself Hebridean wind vane in a moderate breeze off Lowestoft

A Hebridean wind vane on a back of a boat

If you have a transom-hung rudder, you'll need a bracket to be able to fit the Hebridean wind vane

Product Overview

There are a few things on a boat you really can’t do without. Rig , sails , kettle – and, if you’re single- or short-handed , or in the habit of offshore passage-making , I’d add windvanes to the list.

In our technological world, the obvious choice is an electronic autopilot.

The latest models are gyro-stabilised, and switching to auto really is as simple as pressing a button.

They can steer a course, steer to wind or follow a route, and often manage to do so better than a person.

They have two major problems, though: battery consumption , and complexity to maintain.

A Hebridean wind vane on the back of a boat

The Hebridean wind vane steered well on all points of sail

Although there’s often more an intelligent user can do to fix faults than the manufacturers would have us believe, doing so under way is nigh impossible.

The alternative, and the choice of ocean sailors the world over, is wind self-steering.

With no electronics , there’s no power issue, and if they break, they can usually be fixed under way. Added to which, they’re whisper-quiet.

Slocum managed to sail around the world with the tiller pegged (and a ghost on the helm), but most boats require a little more help.

Some respond well to simple sheet-to-tiller arrangements while trim-tab systems work well for long-keelers , but for more modern hull shapes with lesser directional stability, the servo pendulum has become the system of choice.

However, off-the-peg systems will set you back between thousands of pounds, depending on the size of your boat and how customised the vane is for your needs.

Another option is to build it yourself.

Windvane self-steering systems have been a rich vein of DIY ingenuity for years – Blondie Hasler springs to mind, and there are many perfectly good systems developed by less well-known mariners.

The Hebridean wind vane

But there’s a lot of trial and error in achieving a successful DIY design.

John Fleming’s Hebridean wind vane offers a compromise solution – a windvane which has been tried and tested, but which you build yourself.

Initially sold as a set of plans and suitable for yachts with up to a metre of stern freeboard, John designed the Hebridean to be easily assembled from wood and stainless steel using simple tools.

This later developed into a basic kit which included sufficient raw stainless steel to make the components but left the customer to source the timber.

Two versions were then sold, the Hebridean 1, which included American oak for the frame and paddle, all the metal components, prefabricated ready for bolting to the frame, carbon-fibre for the vane and push-rod, and all the fastenings and the Hebridean 2 kit which did not include the timber, but is otherwise identical.

A pillar drill is a godsend when you have this many holes to make!

Today, the only Hebridean available to buy is the Hebridean H2 Kit, which excludes the hardwood for the frame and paddle/pendulum (marine ply for the vane base is supplied). It costs £594 including VAT plus carriage.

John reckons that building a Hebridean wind vane takes a few days’ work.

So, it seems that for a modest outlay and a bit of time in the garage, you can join the ranks of offshore sailors sitting back while the boat sails itself into the wide blue yonder.

Tempting –but does it work?

Building the Hebridean wind vane

We visited Jeff Glass, who keeps his Jaguar 25 Rojan at Lowestoft Cruising Club.

Together with fellow club member Jerry Harrison, they built a Hebridean wind vane over the course of two weekends, with a couple of evenings thrown in.

Jeff built his windvane from the original basic kit and plans, sourcing American oak from a local supplier.

A worm gear mod on a windvane steering system

Jeff and Jerry’s worm gear mod makes adjusting the vane easier

It took about 12 hours of drilling, cutting, filing and polishing to complete the metal fabrication.

Apparently, John Fleming judged the raw materials to a nicety – offcuts were minimal, down to the point that when one bolt was cut in two, both parts were used!

The Hebridean may shortcut the DIY design process by offering a product which is known to work, but you still need to work out how best to fit it to your own boat.

A Hebridean wind vane being tested in a back garden

Jeff tested the build in the garden – complete with Morrison’s bag vane!

Rojan has a transom-hung rudder , so Jeff and Jerry devised a stainless steel bracket to set the Hebridean aft of the rudder, at the same time allowing it to hinge up out of the water.

Patterned in paper, they had the parts laser cut for a neat finish.

Another alteration they made was to add a worm and gear arrangement by which the angle of the vane can be adjusted from the helm.

It’s a neat system and irons out a potential flaw in the original design, which requires you to lean over the transom to adjust the vane using a clamp.

The Hebridean Afloat

Time and tide were not on our side in Lowestoft, but fortunately, the wind was, a moderate breeze giving plenty for the sails and vane to work.

Dodging the sandbanks left us with limited water to play with, but Jeff’s local knowledge allowed us to sail Rojan on all points of sail.

Deploying the Hebridean was straightforward – Jeff simply connects the steering lines to the tiller with a couple of clam cleats, sets the vane angle and off you go.

When not in use, the vane trails easily, or can be hinged up to reduce drag.

The Hebridean wind vane can be hinged clear of the water

The design also allows it to be easily lifted off and folded flat for storage.

In light apparent winds, a bungee is used to lift the vane a little, which helps compensate for the effect of gravity on the paddle and, as a bonus, reduces the weight on the side rudder pintles to lower friction.

Despite a sloppy sea which tended to knock the boat off course, the vane performed well on all points of sail, including downwind – which can present problems for wind self-steering owing to low apparent wind.

The powerful vane and servo pendulum system took control of the boat to the extent that it could still steer a course with the sails badly set.

Lines to cleats on the tiller can be easily engaged or released

It took Jeff a couple of minutes after each course change to optimise the angle of the vane, but this is unlikely to be a problem for passagemakers.

Verdict on the Hebridian wind vane

I am impressed. Our test was only short, but the Hebridean seems to offer a powerful, reliable self-steering system at a fraction of the cost of an off-the-peg model.

If you value peace, maintainability and battery charge, this is worth a look.

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The purpose of a wind-vane self steering device is to allow the skipper to do something other than sitting at the helm. While this is not practical for most un-ballasted small sailboats, a self steering device is an essential tool for the cruising sailor. Graham has been testing the wind vane on his Core Sound 17 Mark 3 which has an excess of stability and is a perfect candidate for self steering. Following its success we have scaled up the mechanism which is built with modest tools and materials to work for larger boats up to 30 feet.

We are pleased to offer our wind vane design as a set of downloadable plans and instructional documents revealing all the dimensions and ratios used as well as recommended materials and construction methods for building this simple cheap and effective system at a fraction of the cost of an off the shelf system. Graham's design is based on his decades of experience building wind vane self steering gear since the 1970's and the tips and tricks for setting up a simple to build and reliable system are all conveyed here. The plans for our wind vane include full size templates for all the critical parts along with the dimensions and ratios used. A builder's guide covers recommended materials and things to watch out for as well as details of construction. All you have to do is adapt the system to work on your boats transom configuration. To learn more about our system and if it might be a good fit for you just keep reading.

How a self steering wind vane works. Short version. The “vane” part in the air provides the input to the rudder. The upper part of the system (the input or vane) is rotated such that it points into the apparent wind once the boat is on course. When the boat gets off course, the force of the wind hits the side of the vane causing it to lean over or in some cases rotate which in turn produces a correcting movement on the rudder. This turns the boat back on course until the vane is once again back to a neutral location. The trick to this is getting the right proportions, feedback and ratios of the vane, rudder, trim tab and control linkages.

Our Design Requirements

1. Low Friction : The name of the game is LOW FRICTION with wind vane self steering devices. We accomplish this with polished stainless steel against uhmw plastic for a cheap and reliable low friction connection.

2. Kick-up Auxiliary Rudder : This was a MUST HAVE for our shallow draft boats and not a feature we have seen on ANY other wind vane designs with an aux. rudder. The rudder pivots on a pin at the top of the transom and is held down with a line on a breakaway cleat.

3. Trim Tab Control : The aux. rudder is controlled by a trim tab that is actuated by the movement of the wind-vane (the part in the air). It's mesmerizing to watch and works completely without batteries or power.

4. Adjustable vane : The wind vane itself pivots on a horizontal axis that is inclined slightly. This creates an important damping effect in the actuation of the tab so that as the vane tilts it loses power because its projected area decreases. This reduces “hunting” and oversteering and unnecessary oscillation of the input to the rudder.

5. Removable vane : As with most systems, the vane is completely removed or replaced in seconds and can also be tilted back to increase the damping effect for high winds or made more vertical for light air which increases power. It can also be swapped out for a larger or smaller vane in lighter or stronger conditions.

6. Adjustable from anywhere in the cockpit : With the addition of a control wheel we can spin the upper part of the vane assembly 360 degrees using a control line routed around the cockpit. This means we can make small adjustments to the direction of the vane from anywhere you can reach the control line.

-Note that there are features we did not incorporate but may be important to some. One such feature is an emergency tiller. This allows for the use of the auxiliary rudder if the main rudder becomes inoperable. We would certainly want this feature on an ocean going cruising boat. If you build the auxiliary rudder up to reach the top of the transom then this is not difficult to do. Our kick up auxiliary rudder makes this a bit more of a challenge but a tiller tube can be fitted to reach a socket without much difficulty.

How does our wind vane system work...“I love it when you talk technical.” Our design uses a horizontal pivoting wind vane to control a trim tab on an auxiliary rudder. ( n this configuration, the vessels main rudder does the heavy lifting of keeping the boat generally on course essentially acting like a fixed skeg when the wind vane is engaged. The main rudder and most importantly the sails are adjusted first to balance the helm and then locked off with a tiller clutch. The auxiliary rudder then keeps the boat on course with small adjustments using a trim tab to amplify the power from the wind vane.

But will it work on my boat? … yes but! There are literally dozens of ways to control a boat using a wind vane. Here are a few put into a nice chart we found on one of the many commercially available wind vane self steering gear company websites. The most common systems are auxiliary rudder systems and servo pendulum systems. If you prefer a servo pendulum system or your boat is better suited for one then you can still use the vane assembly from these plans and simply adapt the lower unit however we do not show details for a pendulum in these plans. Servo pendulum gears can generate great power but they are not easy to build and come at a higher cost due to the stronger materials and complicated parts required. They also rely on additional lines and rigging running through the cockpit. We feel an auxiliary rudder or trim tab system offers the best all-around self-steering device for most boats especially for low cost and simple construction methods. A balanced auxiliary rudder can generate as much power as you need for most boats and has the benefit of being a redundant rudder in the event you need it. In addition, a super low power electronic autopilot like the pypilot can be connected directly to the trim tab or auxiliary rudder to steer a course while motoring for example.

We once installed an auxiliary rudder wind vane on a 45’ steel sloop one third of it’s way into a circumnavigation. It completed its way around the world even though the boat crashed onto a reef in Venezuela. The skipper shipped the auxiliary rudder while the boat pounded. After being dragged off the reef, and with the spade rudder inoperable, the aux rudder steered the boat to port where the main rudder and other damage was repaired. The owner said that the wind vane rudder which was equipped with an emergency tiller mount saved the boat.

The most cited disadvantage of an auxiliary rudder system are that they don't kick up and they require the construction and mounting of an extra rudder. Kicking up is an important feature and one we didn't want to give up especially for our smaller trailable boats. Our auxiliary rudder can be tilted completely out of the water when not in use. This is accomplished with some careful geometry and clever mounting BUT it is best suited for nearly vertical or forward raking transoms. You can still fit an auxiliary rudder to a transom with reverse rake but it is typically done with a very strong vertical tube bolted to the transom at the top and bottom with braces extending diagonally low to the waterline for support. This requires some complex geometry and custom mounting brackets so it is a bit more challenging to mount. If you are fitting a wind vane self steering system to a boat with an existing transom hung fixed (non kick up) rudder then a trim tab added directly to the main rudder may be a better solution for your boat and our wind vane would be easily adapted in this case.

The real challenge of mounting. “No size fits all.” Production self steering units will supply various kits and tubing and brackets to help make their systems fit your transom with just a few bolt holes carefully placed. Even with those systems it's up to you to mount it correctly and this will be no different. You will, without a doubt, need a custom mounting solution for your boat and you are the best person to design and build it! The system we are offering here is but a single example of a configuration fitted to a vertical or forward raking transom of our own design. We can’t help everyone mount this system to their individual transoms and there are probably some sterns that will really be challenging. You may need to design your own rudder for example using the parameters and ratios we offer in our plans as a guide in order to meet the needs of your transom configuration. This is for you to figure out! Remember, being a D.I.Y’er (also known as a sailor) is all about saving money by not charging yourself for the time it takes you to do stuff!

Limitations of a mechanical self steering device... What’s the “Ketch”? Wind vanes are not for everyone and one you build yourself has its own unique challenges to boot. A mechanical wind vane cannot blindly follow a compass course but instead must follow the ever-shifting wind direction and balance of the boat as wind and seat state change. On very fast boats, the apparent wind direction shifts so much that a wind vane is somewhere between useless and dangerous. Cruising cats can be fitted with wind vanes but typically an electronic autopilot is more practical due to their higher speeds. A mechanical wind vane relies on the wind speed being greater than the boat speed which for the vast majority of cruising boats is usually the case. On the current crop of large single handed around the world racers, automatic pilots have become so sophisticated they require training of the computer as they learn the boats behavior during high speed breakaways.

If you are travelling at displacement speeds with a bit of surfing thrown in and if you do not have unlimited power and money and if you do not mind making small adjustments to the boats trim and self-steering gear as the wind shifts, you will have a loyal assistant that never grows tired or needs feeding.

Staying in trim A good sailor keeps his boat in trim and a happy wind vane is one that is sailing a boat that is already balanced as well as possible. If your boat is heavy on the helm already then you may need the extra power provided by a servo pendulum system. If you have a hard time steering your boat, a wind vane (any wind vane) will too.

Space requirements Highlighted below on Graham's Core Sound 17 Mark 3 'Carlita'. Our design requires open space above the transom so it won't work on a standard Core Sound 17 for example due to the proximity of the mizzen sheets. The addition of a boomkin allows the mizzen sheet to be behind the reach of the wind vane sail in the case of the CS-17 Mk3. Likewise a yawl with long mizzen boom will be a challenge as the mechanism must be mounted far behind the transom.

A few notes from Graham....

"Horizontal axis vanes and servo pendulum paddles are the most powerful self steering systems and are certainly required for large or heavy handed vessels. Carlita is a light well mannered boat and requires finesse rather than brute force. If you have not already seen the self steering video, check out the video and answer your own question. She is running almost straight downwind and surfing. After this video was taken she surfed to a little over 10 knots without misbehaving."

Above, Graham steering his then unpainted Core Sound 17 Mark 3 Carlita with all sails flying in the 2016 Everglades Challenge. Note that this earlier version of the kick up wind vane employed a vertically pivoting vane which was converted the more recent version afterward. Vertically pivoting vanes have less power but do offer some advantages such as being able to just point into the wind when not in use. (photo Patrick Johnson)

Graham continues...

"The key is an ultra light vane and very low friction. The lead counter weight is just 6 oz on Carlita's system. to balance the vane. This makes the vane very responsive and reduces friction and lowers the mass moment of inertia. The next important feature is differential feedback in the linkage. This means that when the vane kicks the servo tab over and the tab turns the auxiliary rudder, the angle of the tab is rapidly reduced. If you do not have this feature the boat will hunt badly down wind where there is no natural balance from the sails as you do when close hauled. The whole thing is a delicate balance between power and feedback."

In the video below, Graham sails Carlita a Core Sound 17 Mark 3 with the wind vane rudder disabled and in the "raised" position and the boat steers herself with proper sail trim to windward. Notice that the tiller is simply lashed.

"I want the rudder fixed to aid directional stability. Before engaging the vane, I try to find the sweet spot for the rudder and lock it. I will then observe the course after the vane is engaged for a while and I may rotate the vane or move the tiller slightly. Usually I adjust the vane first. It is a powerful little vane and will tolerate a fair amount of imbalance. All self steering systems hunt but the better everything is balanced the less oversteering there will be.

If you do not enjoy fiddling then a wind vane may not be for you. Naturally they are worthless in waterways because the wind is too shifty. But It did do a great job last week running down the Cape Fear River. The GPS showed a top speed of 8.75 knots and the speed was rarely under 6, at least 3 knots of that was current." -Graham Byrnes

wavefront marine

Tiller clutch (standard).

B&B Windvane Self Steering Plans

Your Comprehensive Guide to Self-Steering for Sailboats

Self-steering systems are a sailor's best friend, especially on long voyages. They allow the boat to maintain a steady course without constant manual input, freeing up the crew for other tasks. Among the various self-steering mechanisms, windvanes are particularly popular.

What is a Windvane?

A windvane is a device used on sailboats to maintain a set course relative to the wind direction. It operates without electrical power, using the wind's force to steer the boat. The concept of windvane steering dates back to the early days of sailing, but modern advancements have significantly enhanced their efficiency and reliability. These devices are crucial for long-distance sailors, providing a hands-free solution to maintaining a steady course.

Types of Windvanes and How They Work

Windvanes come in two primary types: mechanical and electronic. Each type has its own set of advantages and considerations.

Mechanical Windvanes : These rely solely on wind power and mechanical linkages to steer the boat. They are known for their simplicity and robustness, making them a favourite among traditional sailors.
Electronic Windvanes : These systems use electronic sensors and actuators to adjust the steering. While they can be more precise, they also require a power source and can be more complex to maintain.

The operation of a windvane is based on a simple yet effective principle: using the wind's force to control the boat's rudder or trim tab. The windvane detects changes in wind direction and translates these into mechanical movements that adjust the boat's course. Key parts include the vane, a pivoting mechanism, and a linkage system connected to the rudder.

Advantages of Using Windvanes

Windvanes offer several benefits that make them indispensable for long-distance sailors:

Energy Efficiency : Unlike electronic autopilots, windvanes do not require electrical power, making them ideal for long voyages where conserving battery life is crucial.
Reliability and Durability : Mechanical windvanes are built to withstand harsh marine environments, ensuring long-term reliability.

Moreover, windvanes provide an eco-friendly solution to self-steering, harnessing the natural power of the wind and reducing reliance on the boat's power systems. This not only saves energy but also minimises the environmental footprint.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing tips, lifestyle and destinations in our Magazine .

Check out our latest sailing content:

Driving motorboat on holiday. Man sailing an inflatable rubber motor boat on the sea. Boat rental close up

Popular Brands of Windvanes

Several manufacturers are renowned for their high-quality windvanes. Some of the leading brands include:

Hydrovane : Known for its robust design and ease of use, Hydrovane systems are designed to be independent of the main steering system, providing an emergency backup.
Monitor : Offers a range of windvanes praised for their precision. Monitor windvanes are highly regarded for their reliability and performance in various sailing conditions.
Windpilot : Popular for their innovative features and reliable performance. Windpilot offers a variety of models tailored to different boat sizes and sailing needs.

Choosing and Installing the Right Windvane for Your Boat

Selecting the appropriate windvane involves considering several factors, such as the size and type of your boat, typical sailing conditions, and budget. It's essential to match the windvane to your specific needs to ensure optimal performance.

Installing a windvane can be a DIY project for experienced sailors. Here’s a brief overview of the steps involved:

Mounting the Vane : Secure the windvane to the stern of the boat, ensuring it is firmly attached to handle various sea conditions.
Connecting Linkages : Attach the mechanical linkages to the rudder, making sure all connections are tight and secure.
Calibrating the System : Adjust the settings to match your sailing preferences and ensure the windvane responds correctly to changes in wind direction.
Testing : Conduct sea trials to ensure everything is working correctly, making any necessary adjustments to fine-tune the system.

Maintenance and Troubleshooting

Regular maintenance ensures your windvane operates smoothly and reliably:

Routine Maintenance Tips : Clean and lubricate moving parts regularly, check for wear and tear, and tighten any loose fittings.
Common Issues and Fixes : If the windvane fails to maintain course, check for obstructions, worn parts, or misalignments. Routine checks and timely repairs can prevent most issues from becoming significant problems.

Maintaining your windvane not only prolongs its life but also ensures it performs effectively when you need it most. Keeping a maintenance log can help track any issues and schedule regular upkeep.

Windvane vs. Electronic Autopilots

While both systems have their merits, comparing them can help you decide which is best for your needs:

Pros and Cons : Windvanes are energy-efficient and reliable, while electronic autopilots offer greater precision. Windvanes are ideal for sailors looking for a low-maintenance and eco-friendly option, whereas electronic autopilots are better for those who prioritise convenience and precision.
Cost Comparison : Consider the initial investment and long-term maintenance costs. While windvanes may have a higher upfront cost, their lack of power requirements can lead to savings over time.

Ultimately, the choice between a windvane and an electronic autopilot depends on your sailing style, the length of your voyages, and your personal preferences.

Windvanes are a vital tool for sailors, offering a reliable and energy-efficient way to maintain course during long voyages. Whether you opt for a mechanical system or an electronic one, understanding how windvanes work and choosing the right model for your boat can enhance your sailing experience. With proper maintenance and thoughtful selection, windvanes can provide years of dependable service, making your voyages smoother and more enjoyable.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite sailing destinations.

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Plans or kit for wind vane self-steering

Thread starter dave_gibsea
Start date 9 Mar 2018

dave_gibsea

Hi, I've been trolling the internet for some descent plans (not fag-packet sketches) or a simple kit for a wind-vane self steering. My boat is only 26 ft long and has a transom-hung rudder so I believe a trim-tab solution would provide what i need. The problem is there are no recent books or descent plans around. I'm not necessarily looking for a home-made solution but it seems most of the production offerings are for boats much larger than mine with rudders under the hull. Maybe I've missed something but surely there is a market out there for a simple kit or a plan, or maybe a guy somewhere who makes such a thing? Thanks, Dave

Have you seen the Hebridean wind vane? http://windvaneselfsteering.co.uk

Spirit (of Glenans)

Well-known member.

There was an article in PBO in 2001 or 2002, AFAIR, on how to make an item like this out of a bicycle frame and a piece of helicopter tail rotor. It involved having access to welding gear. Now that's practical boating!

Yes I have seen it and in fact contacted John. My rudder arrangement is more like a dinghy rather than a traditional set up (as you might see on a Twister for example) so I don't think this is going to work with the Hebridian unless I build a massive structure on the back of the boat (which i want to avoid).

Have a look here with an outboard rudder you are half ways there.... https://windvaneselfsteering.com/walt-murrays-website sheet to tiller is also worth looking at... utube is your friend with that...

I built a vane gear for my 26ft heavy long keeler from ss tubing ply and grp. It works surprisingly well even downwind in light airs. It acts directly on the rudder, no lines to tiller required. I pinched the basic design from Blondie Hasler via the KYOA website. http://www.kyoa.org.uk/haslervanegears.htm Scroll down till you reach the TEB 1 gear. Worth a try, didn't cost a lot or take too long to build. Al

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9jdISOmpuk the coolest seff steering setup for a wheel steered boat....

Active member

Another vote for Hebridean. The structure to mount it doesn't need to be that big and numb; I slot mine onto a couple of iroko 4" by 2" bearers sticking out the back. Ah yes, just cottoned onto fact that you have no stern deck so not possible to bolt em to that. They don't need to stick out that far though, as the Hebridean paddle angles back and gives clearance to your rudder. Ah yes 2, Clarissa Vincent did a diy version of hydrovane using bits and pieces picked up in a Spanish boatyard. I was really impressed by her use of unlikely stuff; one linkage was via fishing line. That worked for her down to W Africa then back to East Coast. You might be able to adapt the above water bits to actuate a trim tab on your rudder. A Google for girl in a gale might find her

11 Mar 2018

dave_gibsea said: Hi, I've been trolling the internet Thanks, Dave Click to expand...

12 Mar 2018

Bill Belcher wind vane self steering .. easy.

Have a look at this site: http://www.faymarine.com/plansite/fay_marine_yacht_pl.htm lots of useful info, which I used to build the upper unit for a friend's 34ft heavy gaff ketch. Worked fine.

18 May 2019

Hi. On a transom hung rudder the self steering can be off center, like here on a small 20 ft boat https://youtu.be/rmgwnKPxxSM

Hi. On a transom hung rudder can be self steering off center like here on a small 20 ft boat https://youtu.be/rmgwnKPxxSM

Another option is to make a saved search on Ebay for a second hand Navik (you're not getting mine!). These are brilliant and occasionally come up on Ebay. Setting up a saved search will notify when one comes to market.

A 2nd hand Quartermaster is an option as well. There was an article on self steering in Amateur Yacht Research Society (publication number 13) .They discuss the quartermaster in detail. they were popular on the Contessa 32s.

Praxinoscope

Keep a lookout for a Plastimo Navik, its light weght, was designed for smaller boats and works great with a transom mounted rudder, had one on my Invicta 26 for years, it got us to Spain and back to Wales with ease. The biggest prblem they were discontinued a few years ago and are getting as rare as dragon crap but wellworth hunting down.

KompetentKrew

Milestone said: Have you seen the Hebridean wind vane? http://windvaneselfsteering.co.uk Click to expand...

For 40 ft and if tight budget check windyselfsteering.com

KompetentKrew said: Anyone know what sizes of boats the Hebridean is suitable for, please? Or other recommendations for a 40' boat? Click to expand...

scruff said: Another option is to make a saved search on Ebay for a second hand Navik (you're not getting mine!). These are brilliant and occasionally come up on Ebay. Setting up a saved search will notify when one comes to market. Click to expand...

Praxinoscope said: Keep a lookout for a Plastimo Navik, its light weght, was designed for smaller boats and works great with a transom mounted rudder, had one on my Invicta 26 for years, it got us to Spain and back to Wales with ease. The biggest prblem they were discontinued a few years ago and are getting as rare as dragon crap but wellworth hunting down. Click to expand...

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Hebridean self-steering wind vane

“well worth investigating”

TOM CUNLIFFE The Complete Ocean Skipper

“I’m impressed… the vane performed well on all points of sail, including downwind… the servo pendulum system took control to the extent that it could sail a course with the sails badly set” DAVID PUGH Editor, Practical Boat Owner

Build your own servo-pendulum wind vane from a kit

The Hebridean wind vane is an innovative version of the tried and tested servo-pendulum self steering system for sailing boats steered by tiller or wheel. The Hebridean has crossed Atlantic and Pacific oceans but is also quick and easy to mount for weekend coastal sailing or jaunts across the Channel, Minch or other strait/sea.

Stern freeboard The kit fits yachts with stern freeboards from 600-1000mm (stationary). It is designed specifically for DIY construction. The Hebridean can be tilted up out of the water or lifted off the stern and stored on the guard wires. Or partially dismantled for storage below.

Horizontal vane axle The Hebridean is the only serv0-pendulum vane with an actual horizontal vane axle. One of its unique design features allowing boosted performance, simplified construction and enhanced efficiency in all conditions. John Fleming’s analytical genius was responsible for the innovative geometry on which this landmark development in servo-pendulum windvane design depends.

Simplicity For confidence at sea or in remote locations, the simplicity of its components and assembly crucially allows the unit to be maintained with tools usually found onboard. Building the Hebridean yourself is a hands-on “course” providing you not only with a good understanding of its workings, but also substantial confidence in your ability to maintain it anywhere.

Wood When sourcing your own wood you need 4m of suitable hardwood at 145 x 20mm (EU standard). The longest plank is 1800mm to make the pendulum/paddle for 1000mm height transoms. Here is the wood cutting plan .

Affordable The Hebridean offers DIY sailors the opportunity to build an affordable wind vane in wood and stainless steel, with no welding, bearings or plastic cogs in the main H2 Kit. (there is one worm and wheel in the optional Remote Course Adjustment Kit which can be viewed in action in this youtube video ). All the metal components are prefabricated (drilling and some surface finishing required) ready for you to bolt to the wooden frame. The build requires basic wood-work skills and tools. And several days of absorbing and highly rewarding work.

Wheel steering too A “drum” kit for connecting the Hebridean to wheel steering is available.

Shipping For shipping costs, please contact me at the email address below with your full name, delivery address and phone number (required by carrier) for a quotation.

Kit prices Prices are listed on our Prices & Ordering page.

A section by section video from Hebridean builder, Ian French Thank you Ian!

Part 1 Intro and frame: Intro & Frame
Part 2 Turret and Vane : Turret & Vane
Part 3 Fixtures and fittings : Fixtures & Fittings
Part 4 Servo Rudder: Servo Rudder
Part 5 Boat mounting: Boat Mounting
Part 6 Testing the wind vane: Testing the Wind Vane
Part 7 Wind vane in action
Part 8 See the remote steering mechanism being assembled . The single weld required in Part 8 is completed by us before kit dispatch.
Part 9 Preparing Remote Control Lines

See the Hebridean in action

Videos shot in Scotland in varying sea and wind conditions Scotland Sea Trials
Trials over 8 years of coastal and off-shore sailing by John Fleming, the designer of the Hebridean Wind Vane The Hebridean in action.
Emmanuel sailing on Lake Geneva with Mont Blanc in the background Wind Vane in action on Lake Geneva
Mounted on the 45 degree rudder stock of a Twister off the Scilly Isles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNlZHFFseB0
Finnish archipelago Sailing https://photos.app.goo.gl/hYWTEcJhbdX3WGe39
Wheel steering , all beautifully finished, on Al Hanson’s Pearson 31-2. Al’s video also features his removable Hebridean mounting solution attached to his folding transom boarding ladder.
1912 Falmouth Quay Punt Plymouth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6BIxYQUPiM
Wind vane and dolphins off Fair Isle https://vimeo.com/136486631
Courtesy Tom Fisher on “Angus” The Hebridean Wind Vane in action in strong winds 25/5/17 Bermuda to Azores https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po-oXzVaIAk
Kristian Møller Pedersen’s first day out with the Hebridean on trial after having completing the wind vane also see testimonials page https://youtu.be/d2fjzbkh0dU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg7JgwH6Y58
https://youtu.be/1090Z-dK2Ys
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjAUfm-i6Yw
Hebridean mounted on top of rudder stock on a canoe stern sailing off Canary Islands Hebridean in use in Canary Islands
An afternoon sail in 10 to 15 knots on Port Phillip Bay watch-v=QBx0ywAjMCA&feature=youtu.be
Video of the “drum” kit watch-v=4KLWJbYYOF0&feature=youtu.be

Frequently Asked Questions

John Fleming 1951 – 2023 teacher yachtsman inventor thinker

Here is a 10 minute video tribute to the Hebridean’s designer, John Fleming. It was aired at his life celebration in The Tip i at his family home, The Dell, Nethy Bridge, 19 April 2023. https://www.sgmarkphotography.com/Client-Area/John-Fleming Use password sleepyeagle (the name of John’s Pioneer 10).

Notice from Ian Kirkwood

When John’s health got worse, he asked me again to take on the project. I am an enthusiastic fan of his highly ingenious version of the servo-pendulum self steering-system. I sailed in company with John on and off for a decade — using my own Hebridean (I was his first customer in 2013).

Our Hebrideans steered us around Scotland’s northwest coast and isles. We made three trips in company to the Faroe Islands. On the first of these I sailed happily solo. All thanks to the Hebridean. Dying winds foiled an attempt to reach Iceland: our boats lay calmly hove-to overnight a few miles off the Butt of Lewis. Plan B proved to be a fabulous voyage down the length of the Atlantic coast of the Outer Hebrides. A highlight was anchoring off Callanish in blazing sun.

I hope to continue John’s personal style of service. Please allow a generous lead time as I get used to stocking the components and preparing Hebridean kits while maintaining their high quality…and a reasonable kit price in times of rising costs.

Attainable Adventure Cruising

The Offshore Voyaging Reference Site

11 Self-Steering Vane Gear Installation and Usage Tips

The first time I used a vane self-steering gear in anger was back in the early 1980s, aboard my newly purchased UFO 34 cruiser-racer whilst delivering her home from Scotland through the Irish Sea.

Fitted with a then state-of-the-art Aries vane, we had strong tailwinds for much of the way, which the vane handled fairly well, impressive because the UFO was an early IOR design and a known handful downwind.

But when the wind eased, the vane really began to struggle, failing to respond quickly enough to hold a course, and in the end we had to take over by hand.

Over the next few weeks we tried everything to sort this out, with the aid of the late Nick Franklin, designer and builder of the Aries.

We cleaned all of the bearings, added a lump of plasticine to the counterweight, and even tried attaching elastic cord to help the vane recover, all to no avail.

Finally, during a last despairing chat with Nick the main culprit emerged. “You haven’t by any chance painted the blade?” queried Nick, and immediately the penny dropped—the previous owners had painted the plywood blade with several coats of gloss, and added an attractive logo on both sides at the top—and this was enough to unbalance the blade to the extent that it wouldn’t recover to vertical quickly and smoothly.

So here are 11 more things we have learned about our vane gear over the years:

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30-06-2008, 06:34
Boat: C.L.O.D.	system or are about to. I am currently working on my using Bill Belcher's book Wind-Vane as a guide for a horizontal axis non pendulum vane. I would like to hear from others and share ideas or perhaps someone point me towards a past thread on the subject.

30-06-2008, 08:12

Boat: Cal 40 (sold). Still have a Hobie 20

system or are about to.

I am currently working on my windvane using Bill Belcher's book Wind-Vane as a guide for a horizontal axis non pendulum vane.

I would like to hear from others and share ideas or perhaps someone point me towards a past thread on the subject.

01-07-2008, 06:39
Boat: C.L.O.D.	is only 31 ft with a balanced and is very well balanced but.......??

21-09-2008, 02:45
Boat: Hartley Queenslander 36	. We're looking at building one soon and are looking for pictures, tips or words of if you have any

21-09-2008, 04:13
	system by a gentleman running a large boat called the global explorer. He gives the various ratios and a basic how to do it. You can probably get the article from PBOs copy shop for a small fee. The good thing about his system is that it is a built in unit. Strong and tidy. All his connections are basic and replaceable. I think the boat was somewhere over the 60 foot mark. The system I have sorted out is similar. I dont think that it is actually that hard........ If people can do it in sorts with tip and bicycle then with consideration and care .......

22-09-2008, 01:40

Boat: C.L.O.D.

. We're looking at building one soon and are looking for pictures, tips or words of if you have any

22-09-2008, 06:18
Boat: Hartley Queenslander 36	is almost impossible to attach anything to, our is inside a pilot house and our steering is not reachable from the outside except through 6 inches of concrete! Because of all this, we really need something like the which runs as a totally separate system. Do you have any knowledge or experience of building a set-up like this? I've ordered the Bill Morris book. Just waiting for it to arrive now!

23-09-2008, 08:23

Boat: C.L.O.D.

is inside a pilot house and our steering is not reachable from the outside except through 6 inches of concrete!
Because of all this, we really need something like the which runs as a totally separate system.
Do you have any knowledge or experience of building a set-up like this? I've ordered the Bill Morris book. Just waiting for it to arrive now!

23-09-2008, 21:38
Boat: 15 foot Canoe	Manual" 1990 edition. I have the and most the pieces for one but how in the world would I get it to anyone from here in Hawaii? Kind regards, JohnL

23-09-2008, 21:40
Boat: 15 foot Canoe

01-10-2010, 14:25
Boat: 42' Westsail, 32' Bayfield, 36' Pearson	product? I am having a hard time understanding the principals especially the link from the vane to the trim tab, there must be a swivel where it connects to the top of the trim tab mechanism. The disk that sets the vane direction and the horn attached to it does not seem to be possible of making correction. I am sure these questions will be resolved as I build the miniature version. I would love to see . Thanks.

02-10-2010, 11:18
Boat: 42' Westsail, 32' Bayfield, 36' Pearson	call a Triumph by Snark. It’s two plastic halves makes up a 5’ beam and 9’ length. I am making a craft that could sail the Atlantic but won’t, just a gag boat.

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Yacht Cruising Lifestyle

Everything fun you can do from your yacht

Why You Need a Wind Vane for Your Sailboat

September 24, 2021 by Travis Turgeon 1 Comment

view of the sunset from a sailboat using a wind vane system to steer

Many of today’s offshore cruising sailboats utilize a type of autopilot equipment called a windvane. A sailboat wind vane is a mechanical self-steering system that requires no electricity, fuel, or manpower to operate. It’s the perfect addition to bluewater cruisers and offshore sailboats. While a mechanical self-steering wind vane can’t hold you on a compass course, they’re more accurate than human steering over long distances. By reducing the overall mileage of a passage, you’re able to save time and money on your journey. Alternatively, a windvane is essential for short-handed or single-handed sailing. It gives the skipper a much-needed break from the helm when conditions allow.

How Does a Wind Vane Work on a Sailboat?

diagram showing how a mechanical self steering system works

Mechanical wind vane systems are relatively simple in concept. Once mounted at the boat’s transom or somewhere along the stern, wind prompts the elevated vane to adjust the rudder or wheel steering system, putting your sailboat back on a wind-based course dictated by the captain. The idea is that you won’t have to make constant adjustments in variable winds. Automatic adjustments reduce boat heeling and allow your vessel to remain trim in the water.

In other words, wind vanes use wind and water resistance to return a ship to course when wind chages direction.

Sailboat Windvane Gears Vs. Electronic Autopilot Systems

a boats sail blows in the wind on a sunny day

Two primary self-steering systems are standard for bluewater cruisers and offshore sailboats: wind vane steering gears and electronic autopilot systems. Both systems have advantages, and many sailors choose to install both systems on their boats.

Electronic Autopilot Systems

Electronic autopilot systems are the modern answer to self-steering. They’re easy to use, work without wind, and are an excellent option for near-shore cruising and short-term offshore sailing. Autopilots are also compatible with multi-hull vessels, unlike windvane systems.

The downfalls to these systems can be daunting, though. Electronic systems are complex and have numerous parts: displays, wiring, plotters, motors – the list goes on. To run an electric autopilot system, you’ll also need a generator. Most even have two generators, using one as a backup for reliability. As you’d expect, they also come with a higher price tag.

Self-Steering Wind Vane Systems

Windvane steering systems take a more traditional approach to self-steering. They rely on the wind to operate your boat on the desired course. Wind vane steering systems require no electricity, little maintenance, have few moving parts. They also come in several variations to fit your boat in the best way possible. Another massive benefit of a mechanical sailboat windvane is its robust build. This allows reliable and powerful performance in heavy weather conditions.

There are also several downfalls to a windvane system. They do not work in the absence of wind or under power, can add weight and stress to the boat stern, can be initially expensive to purchase, and won’t work on multi-hull vessels.

Types of Sailboat Wind Vane Systems

difference between three sailboat wind vane systems

All wind vane systems direct a boat to a wind-based course, but they each do it differently.

Servo-Pendulum Wind Vane

Servo-pendulum windvane systems are the most common commercially available system, and they are a favorite among most sailors. The reliability for offshore sailing is a huge selling point. It re-affirms why these are the “classic” wind-driven autopilot systems.

Main steering servo-pendulum systems have control lines running from the primary steering quadrant to a wheel or tiller. As the wind pushes the pendulum, it directs the boat’s steering by way of the primary rudder. Because of this, the system is solely dependent on the power of the wind. The stronger the wind blows, the more force the system provides to push the boat back on the desired course.

Rudder steering servo-pendulum systems have the pendulum rudder connected to the primary boat rudder. It works almost the same as the “main steering system,” with a few minor differences. The wind pushes the pendulum rudder to the side, forcing water to pull the boat’s main rudder to change steering. The advantage of this system over the prior is that it involves fewer mechanical components, making it easier to check issues and fix any problems. The disadvantage is that it can be a bit trickier to set.

One of the biggest downfalls of either servo-pendulum system is that the pendulum rudder can not replace an auxiliary rudder. Unlike an auxiliary rudder, its one-dimensional operation makes it unable to run the system if the primary rudder fails. These systems can also create a cluttered cockpit due to the lines running from the steering quadrant. Lastly, servo-pendulum systems generally require more consistent maintenance and more common repairs.

Auxiliary-Rudder Wind Vane

Unlike servo-pendulum steering systems, auxiliary-rudder wind vanes are entirely independent of all other aspects of the boat. Instead, the main rudder is locked, and the auxiliary rudder steers the vessel after setting a powerful windvane to the desired angle. The main rudder is often locked to the left of center or slightly at an angle to balance the helm. One of the most significant advantages to these systems is that if the primary boat rudder fails, the auxiliary rudder can act as a replacement to steer the boat.

There are some important considerations to make when purchasing auxiliary-rudder wind vane steering gear. First, auxiliary-rudder windvanes put a significant amount of stress on the vane, making it vital that the model and components are well designed and made of quality materials. If you can source well-made parts, there is minimal risk while out at sea. There are very few moving parts and no critical lines attached to the system. Second, these systems are big, heavy, and bulky. Having such a massive piece of equipment at the stern of the boat isn’t always ideal in every scenario. Lastly, auxiliary rudders can be awkward to operate when the mizzen is in use on ketch-rigged vessels.

Trim-Tab Wind Vane

Trim-tab windvanes are less common than they used to be after the emergence of the steering technologies listed above. The system works by attaching a “tab” to the main rudder. The small surface of the trim tab makes it easy for the wind to move it from side to side, which then forces water over the primary rudder in the opposite direction to keep the boat on course. Those with the appropriate skills and know-how can even construct a trim-tab themselves, although we recommend that they do not rely entirely on a self-made system.

The major drawback to trim-tabs is that the ability to fine-tune the system is somewhat limited in heavy conditions.

How to Install a Sailboat Wind Vane System

view of the ocean from the deck of a sailboat at dusk

Installing a wind vane on your boat is relatively easy, but it still takes a bit of planning.

Initial Considerations

All windvane models require installation at the center of the boat’s transom or as close to the center as possible. Depending on which system you choose to run, you may need to account for the steering lines that operate the system. Steering lines are approximately a quarter of an inch in diameter and need a clear path from the wind vane to the boat wheel. You may redirect the lines with steering blocks, but be aware that each block adds friction and lessens the overall efficiency of the steering system.

Balancing the Boat

Windvane gears adjust the course of a boat using the wind force at the surface. For this to happen efficiently, you’ll first need to ensure your boat is balanced and sailing as intended. Take your time to get the weight distributed evenly. You’ll also need to reef the sails appropriately so as not to be overpowered.

Adjusting the System for the Conditions

Regardless of the system, nearly all sailboat wind vanes have one or more adjustment features so that you can optimize performance in various conditions. When wind conditions are relatively light, you should expose the vane as much as possible so that the system receives the most force as possible. In heavy winds, however, you can lower the windvane to reduce the impact on the system. In some cases, the wind vanes have sensitivity adjustments where the vane meets the pivot, so you may not need to adjust the height as weather conditions change.

How to Engage a Sailboat Wind Vane System

three people sitting on a white sailboat as it is driven by a self steering wind vane system

Most wind vanes are relatively adaptable and can adjust to fit a variety of hull types. Some vanes are even customizable to bolt directly onto the boat. As with any other object you bolt to your hull, plan to through-bolt everything with the appropriate bedding and backplates for maximum security.

Operating a sailboat wind vane is far less complicated than you might expect. There are four standard steps to engaging a windvane:

Deploy the Gear : To do this, attach the wind paddle and unfold the rudder to be placed in the water. Doing this should only take a few minutes at most.
Connect the Control Lines : Control lines run from the windvane to the boat wheel and may have steering blocks included in the setup. The system may require you to make a few knots or use some hardware, but again, it’s a relatively easy process once you’ve completed it once or twice.
Balance the Boat and Set a Course : With the wind vane deployed, balance your boat, set the course to the desired point of sail, and adjust the windvane to engage the steering.
Evaluate the Course and Adjust as Needed : Adjust the vane to steer more accurately after evaluating your approach. Course adjustments are made by rotating and trimming the paddle to match your course.

Perfectly balancing your boat is one of the easiest ways to make your self-steering wind vane more efficient in the water. A vessel with poor balance or trim will not just sail inefficiently, but it will put unneeded stress on the wind vane system.

Have more questions about sailboat windvane systems and how you can best implement them on your boat? Reach out to the #Boatlife community on our forum with questions or comments!

If you found this article helpful, please leave a comment below, share it on social media, and subscribe to our email list.

For direct questions and comments, shoot me an email at [email protected]

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Reader Interactions

June 12, 2022 at 5:44 pm

Thanks for the useful information. However, you didn’t mention anything about the usefulness of wind vanes in light or downwind sailing. You mentioned the issue of a mizzen and auxiliary rudder, how do I understand that (as we sail a ketch and thinking about installing a Hydrovane.

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On Watch: Self-Steering for Sailboats

By Cap'n Fatty Goodlander
Updated: January 29, 2019

Immediately after completing a 38-day passage from Cape Town, South Africa, to St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands, I raced on a lovely yawl named Osprey. And I was honored when Larry Best, a highly competitive Virgin Islands racing skipper, allowed me to helm her on the downwind run with the massive chute up.

There is a certain irony here. Larry probably figured my helming skills would be pretty good after such a long downhill South Atlantic passage. I knew, however, that Larry had already steered his vessel, that very day, more than I had hand-steered my cruising sailboat in the past year or two.

The fact is that offshore sailors almost never steer their boats, and with good reason. Steering is fatiguing. If a cruising couple steers their vessel watch-on, watch-off, there is little time for seamanship, navigation or even proper nutrition. That’s why many offshore boats in the 1930s crossed the Atlantic with a crew of five plus a cook. There were three helmsmen to steer continuously; the navigator was free to massage his sextant and chronometer; and the owner/skipper acted as coordinator. (Back in the old days, sea cooks weren’t considered fully human, hence the common nautical curse, “son of a sea cook!”)

In our travels, my wife, Carolyn, and I have met only one circumnavigating couple who steered 24/7 and had no autopilot. The fairer member of that crew hinted darkly about jumping ship.

I believe strongly in not having to constantly hand-steer a sailboat. Joshua Slocum agreed. That’s why he was so proud of Spray’s remarkable ability to steer itself upwind and downwind, a task beyond most modern fin-keel production boats.

But let’s say, for the sake of argument, that you cannot afford an autopilot or windvane, but still want to circumnavigate . OK, then you’ll need an easily balanced boat, the sailing skills to do so and the knowledge to understand basic sheet-to-tiller steering.

First off, most well-mannered sailboats will steer forever to windward with the main slightly under-trimmed and the headsail slightly over-trimmed. Here’s how it works: The over-trimmed headsail forces the bow down, which fills the main and forces the bow up. If done crudely, the boat wildly hunts, but with a little tweaking, a steady (if slightly slower than normal) course results.

When beam-reaching on my 1932 wooden sloop, Corina, balancing the sails often worked the same way in steady winds and smooth-seas conditions. But in the rough stuff, the boat required a shock cord to leeward and the jib sheet led to the windward side and then to the tiller to maintain course in gusts and lulls.

Many a cruising vessel has reached around the world with sheet-to-tiller steering. But it is complicated and requires frequent monitoring and adjustment. Worse, most courses are mainly off the wind, and this method works poorly “dead-down” as we call it.

Enter the “heavenly twins” of yore. Basically, two same-size headsails were set off twin over-length whisker poles in such a manner that the moment the boat got off course, the relaxed sheet would allow the now-straining sheet to yank the tiller back on course. This is, in part, why tillers were so popular in yesteryear. The same effect can be maintained today with a wheel clutch on a well-tracking vessel.

The problem with all of the jury-rigged steering systems isn’t their dependability — such cobbled-together rigs are amazingly robust — but they presuppose a perfectly balanced boat and a skipper willing to play with the sheet-to-tiller concept until mastered. Most cruising sailors today can’t be bothered, and make do with an electric push-button autopilot. These modern units steer the boat quite well under normal conditions, but they require massive amounts of electrical energy. Thus, one problem is exchanged for another.

For example: On our Wauquiez ketch, Ganesh , we have an expensive hydraulic Robertson autopilot that steers quite well even in severe conditions. But we cannot keep it supplied with electrical energy (8 to 12 amps) during gales without cranking up our diesel, despite having an Air X wind generator, seven solar cells and eight deep-cycle batteries.

Our solution is a Monitor windvane , which works well on a properly balanced and designed semi-full-keeled vessel. If Ganesh sails at more than 2.75 knots and the wind is below 40 to 45 knots, our Monitor steers us perfectly, with zero energy requirements.

We even use our Monitor during extreme weather in conjunction with slowing drogues. It is far faster to react, more robust and automatically adjusts to temporary changes of wind direction.

If Ganesh sails at more than 2.75 knots and the wind is below 40 to 45 knots, our Monitor steers us perfectly, with zero energy requirements.

In fact, after three successful circumnavigations with a Monitor on my transom, I personally would not go to sea in a cruising monohull without a dependable self-steering windvane from a trusted manufacturer.

So there you have it. There are four stark choices: 1) spend most of your waking hours chained to the helm; 2) learn the basics of balancing your vessel and using sheet-to-tiller techniques; 3) bear the expense of buying a dependable autopilot and keeping it supplied with electric energy; or 4) buy a servo-pendulum self-steering device that requires no electrical energy.

Far and away, the most popular option is No. 3, which means owners must focus on making their craft a seaborne electrical generation station. We know one boat that is covered with solar cells, has two wind generators and tows a hydro-generator — plus, it employs a large smart alternator with battery-temperature sensing technology.

“No problem!” says its happy skipper, who always carries a quick-draw ohmmeter in the old leather pouch where his rusty rigging knife used to go.

To each his own.

But the ultimate truth I’m attempting to steer you to is this: Happy cruisers and contented offshore marriages live aboard sturdy, well-found vessels that have robust abilities to steer themselves efficiently without human involvement.

A dependable autopilot or the practiced ability to get the vessel to self-steer is a major component of the accomplished ocean-voyaging lifestyle. If a ship’s captain has failed at this all-important goal, he or she has probably failed at the upcoming voyage, they just don’t know it yet.

The positive side of all this is that once you’re freed of the helm, life offshore becomes bliss. You get plenty of rest. You can maintain your vessel. You can monitor your navigation. You can look forward to your exotic destination.

And, best of all, you can focus on what is really important in life: your partner, your mutual pleasure and the vast joy of sailing through God’s own cathedral.

Fatty and Carolyn were in landless Beveridge Reef, finishing up a writing project, while writing this On Watch. Soon, they will steer for New Zealand, while alternating between their Monitor windvane and their electro-hydraulic autopilot.

More: autopilots , cap'n fatty , Destinations , on watch , self steering , windvane
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A Guide to Equipping Your Boat with a Windvane
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How to Build a Wood Sailboat : 12 Steps (with Pictures)
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DIY windvane self steering: First glimpse of WoodenB by Mister Vee

COMMENTS

Build Your Own Self-Steering Windvane
Let's start with building the trim tab. The trim tab should be somewhere around 10 to 15 percent of the area of the rudder. We decide on the correct diameter of shaft for the blade. In my case this was a 5/8″ diameter stainless steel shaft. We then drill several (say four) holes to take through-bolts which will hold the wooden blade to the ...
Biscayne bound; the DIY self-steering windvane
Southerly winds ahead of an approaching cold front prompt me to make the 100-mile sail from Marathon, FL, to Biscayne Bay (Miami). On account of numerous r...
Wind Vane Self Steering Gear for Sailboats
A wind vane self steering system is not an essential piece of equipment on a sail boat. However, for anyone who sails alone or cruises short handed over long distances the benefits can be immeasurable. Long tricks at the helm are exhausting, concentration wanes, essentials such as eating, trimming sails, navigating, sleeping etc are neglected.
Free Plans for Windvane Self-Steering
The basic plans are totally free and comprise a list of materials and 3D pdf's. The detailed plans include drawings of the individual parts and a support forum. If you are interested in building a windvane self steering system yourself, free subscriptions to the website with the detailed plans are available untill Februari 7th. OS Walt.
B&B Windvane Self Steering Plans
Plans for this windvane will include full size templates for all parts along with critical dimensions, recommended materials and things to watch out for. ... Graham sails Carlita a Core Sound 17 Mark 3 with the windvane rudder disabled in the "raised" position and the boat steers herself with proper sail trim to windward. Notice that the tiller ...
The Boothby-Hasler Self-Steering Windvane
IMG_3429. In a previous article I detailed the construction of a Hasler-type self-steering windvane for my own 31-foot gaff cutter. Attributed to the late Blondie Hasler of Jester fame, this type of windvane is a remarkably simple device which will steer a sailboat by holding her to a constant apparent wind angle (which is what all self-steering windvanes do, or are supposed to do).
Self-Steering Gear -- Build a trim-tab based wind vane or autopilot
See several wind vane systems at work and learn about the ways to make them flexible in both gain and feedback so they can be adopted to your boat. FREE PREVIEW: To preview Part 2's Table of Contents, List of Figures and Tables for free here , before you decide to buy a copy.
DIY Wind Vane Self Steering for Sailboats
Using designs from Bill Belcher's book "Wind Vane Self Steering", constructed an operating wind vane self steering. Still some tuning up and finish work to do.
Wind Vane Self Steering: The Ultimate Guide
Short answer: wind vane self steering Wind vane self steering is a mechanical device used on sailboats to maintain a desired course without the need for continuous manual adjustment. It utilizes the force of the wind and a vertical axis to steer the boat by adjusting the position of the rudder. How Wind Vane Self.
Hebridean wind vane: testing the DIY self-steering gear
Today, the only Hebridean available to buy is the Hebridean H2 Kit, which excludes the hardwood for the frame and paddle/pendulum (marine ply for the vane base is supplied). It costs £594 including VAT plus carriage. John reckons that building a Hebridean wind vane takes a few days' work. So, it seems that for a modest outlay and a bit of ...
Other Kits and Plans
Windvane Self Steering. The purpose of a wind-vane self steering device is to allow the skipper to do something other than sitting at the helm. While this is not practical for most un-ballasted small sailboats, a self steering device is an essential tool for the cruising sailor. Graham has been testing the wind vane on his Core Sound 17 Mark 3 ...
Wind Vane self steering systems
This video explains, in simple terms, how wind vane self-steering systems work on yachts and sailboats. The video follows an easy flow from auxiliary rudder ...
Guide to Self-Steering for Sailboats
It's essential to match the windvane to your specific needs to ensure optimal performance. Installing a windvane can be a DIY project for experienced sailors. Here's a brief overview of the steps involved: Mounting the Vane: Secure the windvane to the stern of the boat, ensuring it is firmly attached to handle various sea conditions.
Plans or kit for wind vane self-steering
SW London. Visit site. Hi, I've been trolling the internet for some descent plans (not fag-packet sketches) or a simple kit for a wind-vane self steering. My boat is only 26 ft long and has a transom-hung rudder so I believe a trim-tab solution would provide what i need. The problem is there are no recent books or descent plans around.
Hebridean self-steering wind vane
The Hebridean wind vane is an innovative version of the tried and tested servo-pendulum self steering system for sailing boats steered by tiller or wheel. The Hebridean has crossed Atlantic and Pacific oceans but is also quick and easy to mount for weekend coastal sailing or jaunts across the Channel, Minch or other strait/sea. Stern freeboard.
Self-Steering—with No Strings Attached
Auto Steer: This system, made in England, is easily adapted to boats with outboard rudders. Through a simple acetal-plastic and silicon-bronze universal linkage, the horizontal-axis sensor vane connects to a custom-sized trim tab made of wood and stainless steel attached to the boat s rudder. The Auto Steer trim-tab vane is made of LM25 ...
11 Self-Steering Vane Gear Installation and Usage Tips
A Monitor windvane has done 85% of the steering for over 30,000 nautical Bluewater miles and I agree that sail balance is key. On one of my haul outs I very carefully cantered the rudder and marked the top of the wheel with coloured vinyl tape.
Sorting Out Self-Steering Options
In a second installment next month, we'll review alternative windvane designs, including trim-tab and auxiliary-rudder systems. Servo-pendulum vanes can be broken down into three main components: the sensor vane, the pendulum rudder, and the linkages. The sensor vane is the brains of the self-steering system, but it needs apparent wind to work.
DIY Windvane Steering
Location: South of 43 S, Australia. Boat: C.L.O.D. Posts: 21,128. DIY Windvane Steering. G'day, has anyone made their own windvane steering system or are about to. I am currently working on my DIY windvane using Bill Belcher's book Wind-Vane Self Steering as a guide for a horizontal axis non pendulum vane.
Know-how: Adding Windvane Steering and a Hydrogenerator
The new windvane at work. Photo by Christopher Birch. When we decided to add windvane steering coupled with a hydrogenerator to our sailboat, our focus was on the practical aspects: conserving battery power, adding rudder redundancy, and enhancing our off-grid capabilities. It wasn't until we sailed with the vane overnight for the first time ...
Why You Need a Wind Vane for Your Sailboat
A sailboat wind vane is a mechanical self-steering system that requires no electricity, fuel, or manpower to operate. It's the perfect addition to bluewater cruisers and offshore sailboats. While a mechanical self-steering wind vane can't hold you on a compass course, they're more accurate than human steering over long distances.
On Watch: Self-Steering for Sailboats
On Watch: Self-Steering for Sailboats. On long passages, having the boat steer itself allows the crew time to focus on other jobs — and to relax. Immediately after completing a 38-day passage from Cape Town, South Africa, to St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands, I raced on a lovely yawl named Osprey. And I was honored when Larry Best, a ...
How Do Wind Vane Steering Systems Work? James Explains the ...
Episode #183 - Sailomat Self Steering Wind Vane Hello Friends,On this episode I introduce you to our newest crew member, The Sailomat 3040 Wind Vane that wil...