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Straps for IWC Portugieser 20 mm lug width

Article: Strap Guide – The IWC Portugieser

Strap Guide – The IWC Portugieser

Welcome to the Bulang and Sons Strap Guide. Our aim is to showcase some of our most popular straps on a range of iconic watches so you can see how the different combinations work.

The Classic IWC Chrono

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it – so goes the old saying. Nothing could be truer when looking at the IWC Portugieser ref 3714, which has remained completely unaltered since it was introduced in 1998 and it is still one of the most sought after watches by IWC. A lot of collectors either had or wanted a Portugieser in their early collecting life, so strong is the watch’s appeal.

The watch is a very wearable 41mm in steel and houses an automatic mechanism, calibre 79350, based on a Valjoux movement. The two sub-dial layout is a nod to marine chronometers and the arabic numerals and leaf hands lend the watch a classical timeless elegance – the perfect sports and dress watch fusion. We’ve curated our favorite looks for this iconic watch and have a range of both two piece and nato -style straps for you to choose from.

Buying your perfect strap couldn’t be easier – click on your favourite combination and you will be directed to the product in our shop, where you can easily check out.

20mm – Siena Brown Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Nautic Basket Weave Black Rubber Watch Strap

20mm – Mountain Brown Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Rugged Grey Boxed Stitch Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Racing Black Speedy Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Gilt Brown Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Degrade Chilli Red Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Taurillon Creme Heritage Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Black Boxed Stitch Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Cinnamon Brown Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Taurillon Black Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Siena Brown Boxed Stitch Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Cognac Brown Ostrich Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Taurillon Grey Heritage Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Antique Brown Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Caramel Brown Single Pass Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Deluxe Nylon Single Pass Watch Strap Pure Black

20mm – Deluxe Nylon Single Pass Watch Strap Pure Grey

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Welcome to the Bulang and Sons Strap Guide. Our aim is to showcase some of our most popular straps on a range of iconic watches so you can see how the different combinations work. The Breitling Co-...

Strap Guide – The Tudor Blue Snowflake

Welcome to the Bulang and Sons Strap Guide. Our aim is to showcase some of our most popular straps on a range of iconic watches so you can see how the different combinations work. Tudor’s Bluest Be...

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Introducing The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

Ahoy, matey a trio of sports chronographs are pulling into port.

IWC is putting the cal. 89361 to work in the third generation of the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, a take on the stainless steel sport watch that's in trend right now. The bracelet has an "integrated" look, blending seamlessly with the lines of the case. However, it's affixed in a traditional manner to the case; the lugs are just slightly more compact, lending an uninterrupted aesthetic to the whole package. The nautical flavor and the stainless steel trend are ripe for a blue dial, and the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. IW390701) delivers, with a sunburst navy blue dial and rhodium-plated hands. 

Continuing the lineup is an execution with a silver-plated dial (Ref. IW390702) done in the style of old pocket watches and marine chronometers. Visually, the watches feature elements that point directly to the maritime heritage. 

But there's one execution in this family that goes in another direction, and this watch, Ref. IW390703, is rendered in a glorious two-tone combination of 18k 5N gold and steel. All three models have a water-resistance rating of 60 meters, quite respectable for a flyback chronograph. 

Lest we forget, one of the early applications of mechanical watch and clockmaking was to aid in seafaring navigation. The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph directly tips its proverbial hat to that heritage, but stays on-trend in 2020 with a look that's proven very popular: a svelte sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The cal. 89361 is a fitting movement for the platform, manufactured in-house, with flyback functionality and showing the elapsed minutes and hours in a single totalizer at 6 o'clock. The automatic chronograph movement comes in a 44mm case.  

The market segment that this watch plays in is crowded indeed, but the Portugieser name has a certain equity that makes it stick out in a way that other brands scrambling to make a stainless steel sports watch simply do not have. After all, the Yacht Club has been around for a decade now. 

Brand: IWC Model: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Reference Number: Ref. IW390701, Ref. IW390702, Ref. IW390703

Diameter: 44mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: Stainless steel case for all three executions.   Dial Color: Sunburst Navy Blue (Ref. IW390701), Silver (Ref. IW390702), Silver(Ref. IW390703) Indexes: Arabic Numerals Lume: Super-LumiNova Water Resistance: 60 meters Strap/Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet (Ref. IW390701, Ref. IW390702) and stainless steel and gold (Ref. IW390703)

Caliber: cal. 82835 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, Power Reserve: 60 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph/4 Hz Jewels: 22  

Price: $13,100 (Ref. IW390701, Ref. IW390702) and $19,900 (Ref. IW390703) Availability: TBD  

For more, click here.

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Review IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

IWC Schaffhausen  and  Orlebar Brown have announced back in July their collaboration piece, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” . Due to the travelling and general restriction imposed by the infamous COVID19, I have seen the watch in the metal just at the end of August. Even if the summer is over, the “Orlebar Brown” Portugieser Yacht Club deserves to be presented – a lovely addition in the Portugieser Collection and a nice collaboration. 

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

I loved this watch from its digital launch. So I was very happy to finally get to see it at IWC Geneva Boutique during the Geneva Watch Days. The watch looks much better in the metal than the pictures reveal so if you are interested, I recommend to see it live.

Portugieser at heart, Portugieser in the look

The Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is one of those more special Portugieser – while keeping the known general aspects, some details are personalised by the Orlebar Brown collaboration.

The watch comes in a large 44.6 mm stainless steel case. Its dimensions are not obvious, the Edition “Orlebar Brown” wearing, as all the Portugieser large pieces, smaller than expected.

The case is designed to fit comfortable a large variety of wrist sizes. The caseband integrates the inward bent lugs. Even the brushing is extended on the lugs’ sides for a homogenous look. The rest of the surfaces are mirror polished. The strap integration is realised without any empty spaces.

The IWC Probus Scafusia decorated crown is surrounded by a raised polished crown protection. The protection bump also integrates the chrono pushers. The pushers have a wide but relatively thin topper. The entire appearance is nicely designed. The case details are quite handsome.

One of the eye-catching details of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is the strap. The blue rubber strap with textile inlay looks charming and offer very comfortable wear. It contributes to the smaller wear of the elegantly-proportioned case.

The buckle bears the sign of the IWC and Orlebar Brown collaboration deeply engraved in the metal. This buckle offers a secure sit on the wrist and it is a nice combination for the watch and strap.

A dial inspired by sea and sailing

The IWC Yacht Club “Orlebar Brown” has a gorgeous dial combining bleu-marine, white and red. With a vertical layout, the watch has a handsome face. The 12 o’clock areal presents the 60 minutes and 12 hours chronograph totaliser. The stepped down sub-dial presents two registers: the minutes counter on a circular pattern with white and red printing; the hours’ counter is central with printing on a flat surface. The elements are well delimited and offer good legibility. The chronograph’s seconds indication is realised with a central red hand that runs against the white inner bezel with blue printing.

The time display uses central hours and minutes elongated leaf hands with skeletonised centre and SuperLuminova fill. The hours’ indexes have double representation: applied metal Arabic numeral with the Portugieser known font and short baton indexes with SuperLuminova fill – another rather familiar detail. The minutes use a white printed railtrack that can also serve as an indication for the central chrono hands for an ease in legibility.

The lower side of the dial, at 6 o’clock, presents the running seconds. The subdial is subtly recessed and it is decorated with a circular pattern in the same granulation as the one met at the chrono’s minutes’ counter. The indexes and numerals are printed in blue. The date is printed in black on a white background and can be easily observed via a windowed aperture, as part of the small seconds’ dial.

As additional decoration, the dial of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” bears the name of the brand at 3 o’clock and the “Yacht Club” name at 9 o’clock. The Swiss-made marking is displayed at 6 o’clock as a break in the minute’s railtrack.

Calibre 89361 – a classic IWC movement

The Orlebar Brown Yacht Club is powered by the impressive Calibre 89361. This automatic movement powered by a 4Hz balance wheel offers an impressive set of features like the flyback chrono, hacking seconds, quick set date and a long power reserve of 68 hours due to its double barrel design and bi-directional winding.

Calibre 89361 is used in several IWC families for chronographs: Ingenieur, Da Vinci, Aquatimer , Pilot and, of course, Portugieser . The movement uses a double-clutch design with a vertical clutch for coupling and a column wheel for actuation. The combination of the two decreases the wear of the gear train with an increase of reliability over time. The system also helps the overall chronometry by decreasing the loss of amplitude by the chrono’s activation. Looking at the winding mechanism, I was wondering if this is the four pawl system patented by Jean-Francois Mojon and Norberto Perucchi fifteen years ago?

The movement does not particularly excel on the finishes side. Mostly industrial but fine and well-executed, the adornment of the Calibre 89361 deserves a look through the exhibition case back.

It has the looks, it has the brains

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is a beautiful watch with a pleasant layout and nice colour scheme. The look can be overshadowed only by the technically impressive in-house movement, the Calibre 89361. The back offers a compelling view too.

Definitively, it has a sporty appearance. Regardless if worn as a daily driver, at the beach or by sailing, the watch offers comfortable wear even for smaller wrists.  I have an 18cm/7inch wrist and I usually tend to stop at a diametre of 41-42mm. But I didn’t realise how big the watch actually is. So a strong point for a small wrist to give it a chance.

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” Technical Specifications and Price

REF. IW390704

• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Flyback function
• Date display
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Small hacking seconds
• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic, self-winding
• 68 hours Power Reserve
• Frequency 28800.0 vph (4.0 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève, perlage
• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6  mm
• Height 14.3  mm
• Screw-in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water-resistance 6 bar
• Blue dial with luminescence
• Blue rubber strap with textile inlay
• Strap width 22 mm
• 11.800 € , Price includes taxes and shipping.

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ELEGANCE JOINS FORCES WITH SPORTINESS

Elegantly proportioned cases combined with stainless-steel bracelets and rubber or textile straps make the portugieser yacht club an all-round companion.

Since 2010, the Portugieser Yacht Club, an elegant sports watch designed for sailors, has combined timeless elegance with ruggedness and high-level water-resistance. With their filigree bezels and flat casing rings, the new 44-millimetre models have particularly elegant proportions. Ticking away inside is the IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre with flyback function, which combines stopped hours and minutes in a small totalizer at “12 o’clock”. A choice of straps and bracelets make this elegant sports chronograph the perfect companion for use on board, at the beach and on terra firma. The high-quality stainless-steel bracelet, with its polished and satinfinished surfaces, is pleasant to wear. For the first time ever, the watch is also available with a bicolour bracelet in 18-carat 5N gold and stainless steel. In addition,  there is a choice of hard-wearing rubber and textile straps.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide represents a technical highlight. For the first time, in this model, IWC presents its newly developed tide indicator. A totalizer at “6 o’clock” shows the times of high and low tide. Positioned at “6 o’clock” is an IWC speciality, the double moon phase display. It has been expanded to show the spring and neap tides and thus provides more information about the strength of current tides.

Portugieser Yacht Club

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