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Custom-made stern rail seats for the MacGregor 26M. Made from 1/2" marine-grade polymer and stainless steel tubing. Each seat includes a built-in drink holder! We even include a back lifeline gate between the seats. Recommended weight limit is 260 lbs. per seat. additional pictures of this option package. . Item #26MSS. $949.99


 

Custom-made stern rail seats for the MacGregor 26X. Made from 1/2" marine-grade polymer and stainless steel tubing. Each seat includes a built-in drink holder! We even include a back lifeline gate between the seats. Recommended weight limit is 260 lbs. per seat. . Item #26XSS. $949.99


 

This optional Dowsar-made sunshade for the 26M has stainless steel tubing & fittings. The shade material is silver-colored Sunbrella. This sunshade can be left in place for powering or sailing. At the dock or at anchor, it can be raised so that you can stand under it. Comes with a storage boot. additional pictures of this option package. . Item #26MDS. $789.99


 

This sunshade for the 26X is a comfort on really hot days. It folds back out of the way when not in use. It can be left in place for powering or sailing. On a hot summer day, you will always be cooler on the water. Color: gray. Item #26XFG. $499.99


 

Give your cockpit sun and bug protection with this custom-made package for the 26M. The set includes a Bimini top, cockpit enclosure with 3 screened windows, Dodger, transition unit between the Dodger & Bimini, and a transom panel under the helm seat. each component in the package. We offer this option package in a variety of . Item #26MDE. $5,598.99


 

Give your cockpit sun and bug protection with this custom-made package for the 26X. The set includes a Bimini top, cockpit enclosure with 3 screened windows, Dodger, transition unit between the Dodger & Bimini, and a transom panel under the helm seat. each component in the package. We offer this option package in a variety of . Item #63665. $5,598.99


 

Our custom-made cockpit table for the 26M includes stainless mounting hardware and a rot-proof Delrin table. It is made to measure for the MacGregor 26M cockpit. Size: 14" wide x 20" long. Another of the table. . Item #26MDT. $279.99


 

Our custom-made cockpit table for the 26X includes a stainless steel guard (grab handle), hinges and a rot-proof Delrin table and leaves. It is made to measure for the MacGregor 26X cockpit. Size: closed, 10" wide x 20" long; open, 20" wide x 20" long. Item #47217. $789.99

The Boomkicker Boom Support is a simple, affordable solution to supporting the boom and eliminating the chafe, hang-ups and adjustments of a topping lift. Boat performance is improved with less weight and windage aloft. In light air, lifting the boom opens the leech for a faster sail shape and more speed. Reefing is safer and easier with better boom control. Boomkickers have proven durable and reliable with thousands sold. Easy installation independent of the vang. No need to replace existing hardware. Available for the MacGregor 26M (Item #260705) & 26X (Item #260709). $ $179.99.
 


 

Convenient and easy to use, these single drink holders are made of white or black polyethylene. Sized for cans and most mugs. They fold out of the way when not in use. Item #67549. $4.99 each.

Our Mast Cap fits pre-2003 MacGregor boats. Made of very durable black nylon. Ideal to mount a wind indicator on. Item #47041. $9.99

Our MacGregor 26 Boat Cover is sewn with 1,000 denier, highly UV stabilized polyethylene thread. Perimeter of cover is finished with polyethylene binding and non rusting tarp tabs (approx. every 24" around perimeter). Color: silver / black woven polyethylene fabric. The covers seem to last an average of 8 years. The material doesn't run if holed. Install silver side up. Item #38103. $159.89


 

Our stainless steel boarding handle is placed on the transom to provide a handhold while using the transom boarding ladder. Supplied with all mounting hardware. Suitable for the MacGregor 26X & 26M. Item #65709. $25.99

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Mac 26S replacement mast too heavy?

  • Thread starter Mickyfin
  • Start date Aug 29, 2020
  • Macgregor Owner Forums
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I recently have been lured back into sailing after a long absence. I've picked up a "bargain" Mac 26S, and have one concern. The prior owner stated that he had bent the original mast and replaced it with a heavy duty one that was more difficult for him to raise. I haven't had the boat in the water yet, but I'm concerned that the heavier mast might be iffy on a water ballast boat known to be somewhat tippy. I suspect that when the M26S replaced the M25, that the stock M25 masts may have been used on the new M26S model. I have compared my 26S replacement mast with that on a 25. Both are 28' feet long and all attachment points are the same. The replacement is visibly heavier, with a 3" X 4 1/2" oval profile instead of the smaller M25 3" X 4" teardrop profile. Using a bathroom scale, it looks like the replacement is about 17 pounds heavier at around 70 pounds. It looked like it would weigh more. I am open to any input. If the 26S mast was originally the same as the 25, do you think the extra 17 (maybe 20) pounds will have a significant effect on the boat? If needed, I might be able to swap masts, since the heavier mast would have far less impact on the heavily ballasted 25. Any thoughts? Thanks.  

Freedom77

When we bought Freedom in 1976, I asked Roger to rig with and S106 mast as opposed to stock S104 with the intent of rigging masthead instead of fractional which allowed for bigger headsails. At the time I was doing a lot of long distance California coastal racing. I didn't have any problems with larger extrusion. If your yacht is fractional rig then there is, most likely, no need for heavier mast.  

rgranger

Might be a little out of the box but what if you put 20 pounds of salt in the ballast tank to offset the weight above?  

Mickyfin said: I recently have been lured back into sailing after a long absence. I've picked up a "bargain" Mac 26S, and have one concern. The prior owner stated that he had bent the original mast and replaced it with a heavy duty one that was more difficult for him to raise. I haven't had the boat in the water yet, but I'm concerned that the heavier mast might be iffy on a water ballast boat known to be somewhat tippy. I suspect that when the M26S replaced the M25, that the stock M25 masts may have been used on the new M26S model. I have compared my 26S replacement mast with that on a 25. Both are 28' feet long and all attachment points are the same. The replacement is visibly heavier, with a 3" X 4 1/2" oval profile instead of the smaller M25 3" X 4" teardrop profile. Using a bathroom scale, it looks like the replacement is about 17 pounds heavier at around 70 pounds. It looked like it would weigh more. I am open to any input. If the 26S mast was originally the same as the 25, do you think the extra 17 (maybe 20) pounds will have a significant effect on the boat? If needed, I might be able to swap masts, since the heavier mast would have far less impact on the heavily ballasted 25. Any thoughts? Thanks. Click to expand

More ballast is a possibility. I'm hoping for some input from a 26S owner who might be able to speculate what effect the additional weight will have.  

I understand... the H26 is also a water ballast boat.  

srimes

Weight aloft is bad for performance and racers will go to extreme lengths to reduce it. But I don't think this is your main concern. If this is a trailer boat the weight will be a hassle, but not the end of the world. Just try it and see how it does. It'll probably be just fine and if it isn't you can look to upgrade. The M25 is far from a "heavy ballasted" boat. The M26 has over twice as much ballast, it's just located higher so it's less efficient. 20lb high on the mast has way more impact than 20 lb of ballast. The M26 has 1200lb ballast. 20lb is less than 2%.  

Eclectic

Also keep in mind that the 17 pounds (maybe 20) is distributed along the whole length of the mast. As mentioned try it out and see how it goes. The original mast extrusion is available from Blue Water Yachts without hardware. Wonder what the shipping would look like. Best Regards  

Thank you both. That's the kind of input that I was hoping to find. I probably have focused so much on the aspect of initial stability in a water ballast boat(apprehension of the unknown), that I hadn't even considered actual ballast weight. Thanks for the good info.  

Tedd

Love the way @rgranger thinks! Along those lines, I worked out that a Mac 26S has about 32.5 lb more water ballast when it's filled with seawater than when it's filled with fresh water. The center of mass of the mast is quite a lot further from the center of buoyancy than the center of mass of the water ballast is, but I would guess that your 17 lb heavier mast with seawater ballast would probably give about the same righting moment as the light mast with freshwater ballast. In other words, not a lot of difference. There are also inertia effects to consider but, again, I suspect we're talking a pretty small effect. Here's another way of thinking about it. If you weigh 75 pounds more than me then the drop in righting moment when you stand next to the mast, holding on, compared to me standing next to the mast, holding on, is probably about the same as the difference between a 70 lb mast and a 53 lb mast. So it's like you have a fat crew member going forward. How does the larger extrusion fit into the foot bracket?  

Gosh, I thought I was a fairly sharp old guy, but I'm very much humbled by the knowledge you guys have. I expected some off the cuff comments, but it is truly amazing that a person can pose a question like this out there somewhere on the internet, and receive this kind of credible response. I kinda knew that rgranger was suggesting adding some weight to the ballast tank, but didn't see the big picture of transforming freshwater to heavier saltwater until ted spelled it out. Both masts are 3" wide, and will fit in the foot bracket width wise. What I do wonder about is how well the mast will raise. The replacement footprint is 1/2" longer, and looks like it will dig into the foot bracket as it goes up. The mast is held by a single bolt that goes through vertical slots on either side of the foot bracket. I'm not familiar with this type of attachment, but it looks like I might be able to put a 1" block under the horizontal mast near the foot bracket, which would allow the mast to pivot upward without contacting the foot bracket, and then drop down the 1" as it approaches a vertical position(I hope). Thanks again for the help.  

Tedd said: Along those lines, I worked out that a Mac 26S has about 32.5 lb more water ballast when it's filled with seawater than when it's filled with fresh water. The center of mass of the mast is quite a lot further from the center of buoyancy than the center of mass of the water ballast is, but I would guess that your 17 lb heavier mast with seawater ballast would probably give about the same righting moment as the light mast with freshwater ballast. In other words, not a lot of difference. Click to expand
Mickyfin said: Both masts are 3" wide, and will fit in the foot bracket width wise. What I do wonder about is how well the mast will raise. The replacement footprint is 1/2" longer, and looks like it will dig into the foot bracket as it goes up. The mast is held by a single bolt that goes through vertical slots on either side of the foot bracket. I'm not familiar with this type of attachment, but it looks like I might be able to put a 1" block under the horizontal mast near the foot bracket, which would allow the mast to pivot upward without contacting the foot bracket, and then drop down the 1" as it approaches a vertical position(I hope). Thanks again for the help. Click to expand

When raising with a gin pole (or by hand ) the mast base will allow a little lift in the vertical slots. This should allow the mast to clear the deck plate provided the hole in the mast was placed correctly. The vertically slotted design eliminated the need to round one side of the mast bottom for gin pole raising. Best Regards  

Here's a picture of the foot bracket. After cleaning some scuz off, I can see that the mast has been digging into it when raised. The column to the side is a PVC mast support. I'll include a picture of the mast base later if I can't do it now. After looking closer, I can see that the mast through bolt hole is much closer to the backside of the mast. It's pretty well wallowed out, but being placed so far back, it looks like it should have held the mast high enough in the bracket to prevent scraping the foot bracket when the mast is raised. Probably hard to understand without seeing. (May have to send pictures separately). In my own defense, I only gave $2000 for the boat/trailer, good 9.9 merc, main, jib, spinnaker, CDI Furler(all like new), never used pop up enclosure plus a separate mosquito screen cover, HDPE rudder and lots of other goodies.  

JPEG_20200901_140613_8017928951124227564.jpg

Mickyfin said: Here's a picture of the foot bracket. After cleaning some scuz off, I can see that the mast has been digging into it when raised. The column to the side is a PVC mast support. I'll include a picture of the mast base later if I can't do it now. After looking closer, I can see that the mast through bolt hole is much closer to the backside of the mast. It's pretty well wallowed out, but being placed so far back, it looks like it should have held the mast high enough in the bracket to prevent scraping the foot bracket when the mast is raised. Probably hard to understand without seeing. (May have to send pictures separately). In my own defense, I only gave $2000 for the boat/trailer, good 9.9 merc, main, jib, spinnaker, CDI Furler(all like new), never used pop up enclosure plus a separate mosquito screen cover, HDPE rudder and lots of other goodies. Click to expand

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srimes said: No way, unless you're saying that the the righting moments of a stock boat is about the same as with the heavier mast. That 17lb is 14 ft up from the cabin top. Probably about 17ft from center of gravity. The ballast tank is what, 3 ft from cg? Better make that 100lb of salt. Click to expand

@Mickyfin : Crickey, that's one skookum mast extrusion! I'd be tempted to drill 1" lightening holes all up the sides. Well, not really. I'd probably replace it with stock and use that one to make a beam in my house, or something.  

Tedd said: It's actually the change relative to the center of buoyancy that matters, not the change relative to the center of mass. That's why I wrote it that way. And the center of buoyancy is quite a bit higher than the center of mass, probably closer to my 2:1 ratio than your 5.7:1 ratio. Click to expand

Ted, I'm glad you could see that it is a fairly stout mast and that I'm not just a whiner. As near as I can judge, the walls look about twice as thick as the M25 mast. I suspect that the replacement came off a larger boat and was shortened. I still havn't tried raising it. I've been trying to figure out how to correct the wallowed out holes in the foot of the mast. I'm considering fabricating an insert or plug for the bottom of the mast and then redrilling for the through bolt. I could trace an outline of the base, and use it as a template to make the plug out of wood, a chunk of fiberglass, 2 or 3 inch Starboard or maybe layers of 1/4 " aluminum bolted together. Anyone have any suggestions? I may need to start a new thread. Ted are you an Aussie? I never have met one.  

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  11. Mac 26S replacement mast too heavy?

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