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Harken Boasts Best Overall Quality Among Backstay AdjustersOthers we like are the wichard ratcheting model and for sheer value, the c. sherman johnson adjusters.. In these times when everyone seems interested in tight tacking angles, a taut forestay is the ticket to ride. And to create a taut forestay you need an equally hard-working backstay. If youre a serious racer, the forestay-backstay combination is needed to bend the mast to change the mainsail shape. If youre a club racer or cruiser, its to take most of that awful sag out of the jibs luff. To ease off the tension-when on other points of sailing or to make it easier to furl up the jib-you need a backstay whose length can be readily changed. Further, one of the most important functions of any backstay adjuster is to ease the strain on the rig and boat when at anchor, when docked or when hauled-for repairs or for seasonal lay-up. Leaving a boat unnecessarily burdened with extreme tension in the standing rigging is like leaving the Kentucky Derby winner saddled for a week. The quickest way to pump up or release the pressure in the triangles made by the backstay, the mast, the forestay and the boat is with a hydraulic pump. Theyre costly. Well deal with them in a subsequent report. For now, weve assembled all the mechanical backstay adjusters we could find. All sizes. All shapes. Theyre not cheap, mostly because they must be strong and foolproof. Included in the international collection are backstay contraptions from Dermac, Harken, Hasselfors, Johnson, R.D.M. Sparcraft, Spinlock and Wichard. (An English firm, Barton, and an Australian company, Ronstan, used to make backstay adjusters but have dropped out of the competition.) These seven devices benefit from a single engineering approach. Each utilizes the immense power of simple threads cranked with a lever of some sort. What results is nothing more than a compact, circular version of the Egyptians inclined plane, which enabled them to build pyramids. In alphabetical order, here are the choices. Dermac The French-made Dermac is a tapered chunk of polished stainless steel with T-toggled shackles at both ends. It has two fold-up, arc-like handles made of black powder-coated aluminum. Tension on the handles is via nylon washers-not the best, but they can be tightened by taking up on the handles axles. Because Dermac uses 10 threads per inch on the rod, it will extend or retract an inch quicker than, for instance, will the Harken, which has more threads. However, the load will be heavier. The stainless threaded rod comes out of the body covered with black grease, which is unsightly and could collect dirt, carrying it back inside. Worse, perhaps, someone who leans against it or grabs for a handhold would not be pleased. The welds attaching the T-toggles to the stainless body are neither artistic nor as mechanically well done as they could be. However, someone thought to drill a drain hole in the bottle toggle. The shackles are made of stainless plate rather than forged and the finish on the shackles is poor. The ends of the clevis pins are quite rough, a far cry from the fine surface finishing and polishing of Wichard. (A good mirror finish on stainless is not just cosmetic; its a vital part of the anti-corrosion protection.) There are three entirely different sizes of Dermacs. The one for 7/16″ clevis pins lists for $450. The 1/2″ is $490. The 5/8″ is $725. The prices are list and should be about a third less at discount if ordered through West Marine or Boat/U.S. Harken As with virtually all Harken gear, the Harken backstay adjuster is a quality piece of work. Made in Italy by Barbarossa (which Harken owns), it comes in four sizes (pin sizes from 1/2″ to 3/4″) and standard strokes from 5-1/2″ to 8-11/16″, with custom lengths available in the two larger models. The 7/16″ and 1/2″ pin models have fold-down handles. Because of the fine threads, youll be turning these handles about 20 times per inch of linear adjustment. Thats a lot of turning. The handles stay folded down and store in the up position with good springs that eliminate any annoying rattles. The larger ones operate with a standard winch handle, which is much more convenient if you have the room to swing the handle. The Harkens have O-rings at the top to keep water out of the sealed worm tube. The rod that extends is clean. Made largely of solid stainless and chromed bronze-with bronze worm gears, bronze thread drives and greased bearings on moving parts-the Harkens are heavy equipment. They range in weight from nearly 4 pounds to more than 8 pounds. Breaking strength? Forget it. Youll never break one of these. Considering the perfectionist (and massive) approach, the Harkens are not badly priced, considering that they discount about 30% to $650 to about $1,600. Hasselfors Made in Sweden, the Hasselfors backstay adjuster comes in one model, two sizes-one with almost a 10″ throw, the other with 15-3/4″. Both sizes, made for 13 mm clevis pins, have a breaking strength of 14,333 pounds. Both are adjusted with a standard winch handle powering a worm gear. The driven gear is bronze, the driver is stainless with needle bearings. Because the worm has seven turns per inch, and is cranked with a continuous-motion winch handle, the Hasselfors is the second quickest to retract or extend. The entire mechanism, along with the threaded rod, is nicely encased in anodized aluminum tubing regularly used by Hasselfors to cover turnbuckles. Plastic caps keep the aluminum from touching the stainless. Although somewhat semi-custom, the Hasselfors adjusters are not very expensive. The large model, which has the greatest throw of any stock backstay adjuster, lists for $630 Johnson If Harken is elegance, C. Sherman Johnson is working man tough. The Connecticut company buys good stainless steel, uses the steel wisely with what-you-see-is-what-you-get engineering and doesn’t have to build into its budget much, if any, money for warranty work. Johnson backstay adjusters, for pin sizes ranging from 1/4″ to 5/8″, are basically turnbuckles (for which Johnson is noted) with locking handles. They have T-toggles and heavy shackles at both ends. The bronze toggle heads are threaded on 5/8″ bronze rods to prevent any galling. The adjuster is operated with stainless steel fold-out handles that are stamped and bent in a C section. The C shape engages a large stainless nut on the top of the barrel to lock the turnbuckles in a simple, foolproof manner. The handles work surprisingly well and, with 18 threads per inch on the larger models, the adjuster is on a par for power with Harken. Because of the thrifty engineering, the powerful Johnson adjusters are relatively light in weight, which along with their reasonable cost adds to their allure. For comparison, a Harken adjuster for 3/8″ wire, a 5/8″ pin and a breaking strength of 16,755 pounds weighs nearly 10 pounds. It has a stroke of 7″. It costs more than $1,000. A Johnson of similar specifications weighs 3 pounds, 12 ounces and costs $220. The Johnsons downside: The stroke is 6″ and it doesn’t shine. R.D.M. Sparcraft Imported from France by Charleston Spars in Charlotte, North Carolina, the R.D.M. adjusters are meant for either backstays or inner forestays. For the latter, a Wichard shackle replaces the standard jaws. The R.D.M. adjusters have stainless bodies, toggles and worm screws. The worm drive is about 6-1/2 threads per inch, making this the fastest drive unit of all. For quick adjustments, thats good. However, it also means that it will be much more difficult to crank in the upper levels of tension. The nut body (the housing that advances or retracts the worm) is made of bronze, which is cotter-pinned to a black-anodized aluminum ring to which the fold-down arms (spring-loaded when stored) are attached. The aluminum ring is so indifferently made that one cranking arm comes down perpendicular to the shaft, but the other stops about 10 or 12 short of perpendicular. On the model examined, the not-very-smooth weld affixing the toggle to the worm screw already was showing the telltale brown color of what appears to be corrosion. The R.D.M. adjusters come in two sizes-for 3/8″ and 1/2″ pins. They list for $310 to $514. Spinlock The little Spinlock backstay adjuster in our collection is from a small British firm known for its hiking sticks and line-handling hardware (including a new and very unusual rope clutch that we will be examining in a few weeks). The Spinlock adjusters, intended for boats in classes like the J/24, Melges 24 and Etchells, are two-handle devices like the Johnson discussed above. Theyre meant for all stays and shrouds, not just backstays. They have about a 3″ throw but the 22-per-inch threads mean youll be turning 22 times to take up or ease an inch. Among the refinements on the Spinlocks are numbers (from 0 to 65 mm) laser-etched on the machined stainless barrel to permit repeatable changes (as on Ronstans Sealoc turnbuckles, which also can be fitted with a wrench-like handle). A unique Spinlock touch is the articulated jaw base to take up any misalignment or sag. It makes a toggle unnecessary. The take-up collar is bronze, as it should be, to avoid the galling that can occur when the threads on both the stud and barrel are stainless. Spinlock very properly is quick to advise that when used on backstays, care should be taken as these turnbuckles have no end stop. The Spinlocks currently come in three sizes-for 4 mm, 5 mm wire and 3/16″ wire, to which it is intended that the adjusters be swaged. With the marked calibrations and the locking handle, the Spinlocks would be great to have on all stays and shrouds of any small boat when its time to step and tune the mast. Great except that they cost $150 a shot vs. about $20 or $30 for a standard jaw-swage turnbuckle. For a boat with uppers and lowers, the total cost would be about $900 worth of Spinlocks instead of $150 for standard turnbuckles. Wichard Widely known for its shackles, Wichard makes two basic adjusters. One version, for 1/4″, 9/32″ and 5/16″ wire, is available with either a wheel adjuster or a single fold-up lever. A larger version with a ratcheting handle, for up to 3/8″ wire, comes in two lengths. Except for the very , which takes a 5/8″ pin, all take 1/2″ pins, which seems like a good idea. The wheelie version is popular and discounts for about $316. It has a 6-1/4″ black-anodized wheel turning against a bronze collar to adjust the stainless threaded rod and even an arrow to tell the operator which is the tensioning direction. The handle version, which you use as a wrench, slipping it on and off the turning nut, has a rubber grip and stows in a rubber clamp. Both have T-toggles beautifully welded on the stainless rod and excellent shackles. On each model, the stainless barrel has a cut-out slot with stamped numbers, ranging from 0 to 160 mm, and a handy red indicator button. Its very well done. The large Wichards have good throws-17-5/16″ x 26″ and 19-7/8″ x 29-3/4″-and have excellent switchable ratchet mechanisms that, along with a 12-to-the-inch threaded rod, make them the easiest of all to adjust. The Wichards, with breaking strengths right up to or slightly exceeding the equivalent Harken and Johnson counterparts, discount to $1,160 for the large model and $620 for the smaller version. Bottom Line The word contraptions was used early on in this report to describe these devices. Thats unfair, if the word has for you a negative connotation. All of these devices are well made, as they must be. A backstay and all parts thereto must not fail. With the Spinlocks in a separate category, our view of the larger backstay adjusters has to do with ease of operation, weight and finish and appearance. For ease of operation, the winch-handled Harkens and quick-adjusting Hasselfors are excellent, but our choice would be the single-lever, ratchet-model Wichard, followed by the two-handled Harken. For light weight, the Johnson is the clear standout. For finish and appearance, wed rank them Harken, Wichard and Dermac. Best overall are the smooth-operating Harkens, but theyre heavy-both in weight and in price. Firm holder of the weight/price middle ground is Wichard, which makes good gear-especially the single-handle ratchet models. The Best Buy by a mile and a quarter is the two-handle Johnson. Contacts- Dermac, Marinox, 401 NE 8th St., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33304. 800/379-3330. Harken, 1251 E. Wisconsin Ave., Pewaukee, WI 53072. 414/691-3320. Hasselfors, Selden Mast, Inc., 4668 Franchise St., N. Charleston, SC 29418. 800/571-0440. Johnson, C. Sherman Johnson Co., Inc., Industrial Park, East Haddam, CT 06423. 860/873-8697. R.D.M. Sparcraft, Charleston Spar, 3901 Pine Grove Circle, Charlotte, NC 28206. 704/597-1502. Spinlock, Maritime Supply LLC, 42 Grandview Terrace, Essex, CT 06426. 860/767-0468. Wichard, 507 Hopmeadow St., Simsbury, CT 06070. 860/651-8406. RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHORLeave a reply cancel reply. Log in to leave a comment Latest VideosThe Perfect Family Sailboat! Hunter 27-2 – Boat ReviewPettit EZ-Poxy – How to Paint a BoatThe Boat From True Spirit – Sparkman & StephensTop 5 Boat Hacks – Boat Maintenance Tips and TricksLatest sailboat review. - Privacy Policy
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× You are using an outdated browser. Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience. We Ship Worldwide! | FREE SHIPPING! for US Continental orders over $99. Click for details. Shopping CartYour cart is currently empty.. FREE SHIPPING! for US Continental orders over $99 click for details Backstay & Babystay RiggingA backstay is a part of the standing rigging that runs from the mast to back of the boat, counteracting the forestay and headsail. It is an important sail trim control and has a direct effect on the shape of the mainsail and the headsail. Backstays are generally adjusted by block and tackle, hydraulic adjusters, or lines leading to winches. At MAURIPRO Sailing we carry a wide variety of rigging products, including backstay adjusters, backstay flickers, backstay split plate and backstay wheel adjuster from great brands such as Harken, Selden and Sailtec. MAURIPRO Sailing, your direct access to Backstay & Babystay Rigging and all your other sailing and boating needs. Copyright © 2024 MAURIPRO Sailing LLC.- Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
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Are backstays really necessary?- Thread starter Hermit Scott
- Start date Dec 14, 2009
- Forums for All Owners
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Hermit ScottAre most of the forces on the rigging on the shrouds and forestay? I noticed a hunter 31 or 310 I think that has no back stay. The backstay on my boat is the only rigging that hasn't been replaced in quite some time. Is that because it isn't as necessary to keeping the mast vertical? or just a lazy/negligent PO? Hermit Scott said: Are most of the forces on the rigging on the shrouds and forestay? I noticed a hunter 31 or 310 I think that has no back stay. The backstay on my boat is the only rigging that hasn't been replaced in quite some time. Is that because it isn't as necessary to keeping the mast vertical? or just a lazy/negligent PO? Click to expand The early B & R rigs also had swept back spreaders and they all had back stays. I don't think you would want to any sailing (especially down wind) without a backstay. Don S/V ILLusionRigging is designed; it doesn't just happen. Fractional rigged boats and especially B&R fractional rigged boats are a special breed. There is a long but very informative discussion on the design criteria, strengths and tuning characteristics of these rigs here in the Knowledgebase which gives lots of good info but probably irrlevent to someone with a Catalina on which the backstay is even more crucial to the strength and integrity of the rigging. Moreover, if all the other shrouds have been replaced on your boat presumably for some reason, ignoring the backstay probably isn't a wise idea. Consider this : when you are sailing, the sails are towing your boat. The sails are attached to the fore stay, to the mast and to the sheets. The forestay is attached to the mast head or somewheres close. Without the back stay what will support the mast when the sails pull on the forestay and the mast? There is some force heeling the boat but there is alot of force causing the boat to go forward. You don't want the mast to go without you. Ross said: You don't want the mast to go without you. Click to expand Barnacle BillThe B&R (Bergstrom/Ridder) mast support system has been around for a long time (I think the 70's) and the first one's I have seen also used backstays. The systems you see today on later model Hunters do not have backstays and that raises questions as mentioned above. I do not know of any Hunter mast failures that I recall, so I guess it is not problematic for a boat considered to be a coastal cruiser at best or an inland classified vessel. The B&R rig does have more adjustable components which makes it more of a pain to tune and much of it has to be done aloft. The spreaders are swept WAY back to triangulate the mast support to eliminate the backstay. One problem with this is you cannot push the boom as far forward on a run as you can on most other boats. This means you will sail on the lee quicker than the average boat, which means you cannot sail as deep downhill. Hunter sales people will say that gybing downwind is faster than sailing dead down wind, which can be true, but if you are sailing down a channel, or between obstructions, this will be a detriment in my opinion. If you sail offshore in extreme conditions, a backstay becomes a much more important piece of equipment. Going through big waves, especially to weather, can result in a boat pitching and a mast that pumps (that's why some have baby stays), but it is not al that simple. There are a number of different kinds of masts and mast designs. Many small daysailors do not have backstays. But, consider how they are used. A backstay certainly is not something you would remove because you have seen other boats without them. And if you have one, then consider yourself lucky and maybe you will sleep a little better. How do you compensate for the headstay tension without some manner of back stays? The last time I looked at a tall radio tower they had guys spaced at equal points all around. We don't have the luxury of unlimited ground for anchoring the shrouds and stays so we have to make do with the anchoring points we have. Look at the utility poles,they try very diligently to balance the loads on the poles. Where they are successful the poles are straight but where they have failed the poles are bent. Answer: A back stay IS necessary on a standard masthead or fractional rig. In a B & R rig the pre-bend and swept spreaders eliminate the necessity of a back stay. The B & R rig, by it's nature and design does not pump unless it is left dangerously loose. The design brief was to eliminate fore stays and "baby stays", while keeping a very light yet very strong rig. The B & R rig circumnavigated many times.It is perfectly seaworthy. I own both rigs. My masthead Hunter 33 will pump. My B & R Hunter 260 will not pump. I can make the head stay on the 260 tight enough to keep sag well within reason. And I don't smack my head on a back stay. David in SanduskyBackstays, B&R rig As already explained, your rig will come down in a reach or a run without your backstay. (Close hauled, your sail and mainsheet might hold the mast up.) Like our '77 h27, the backstay is essential to your rig. On the other hand, I am aware of no data, or analysis on this site or elsewhere that shows the B&R rig to be any less sturdy and stable than our backstayed rigs under any conditions. Hermit, with all due respect... that Hunter B&R rig is not the same animal as your masthead riggged Cat30. It's not better either. The backstay is there for a reason, you'll find that out if you ever fly a spinnaker in a breeze, or have to claw off a lee shore. If you really want to get confused, look at a Freedom Yacht ..... no backstay....no forestay.... no shrouds. Joe: Freedom has a forestay, just like my Hunter Vision. It is really wonderful without all of that rigging to worry about. When we are running downwind the main is like a chute. We have been out in 30+ kts with a full main running downwind. Steve Dion said: Joe: Freedom has a forestay, just like my Hunter Vision. It is really wonderful without all of that rigging to worry about. When we are running downwind the main is like a chute. We have been out in 30+ kts with a full main running downwind. Click to expand Bad ObsessionHermit....you can buy, if you don't already have it, a pulley system to tension your backstay to bend your mast. This is a nice thing to be able to do at times for sail trim. Patrick17430On my boat the mast is held in place only by the lip of the mast boot and the standing rigging ? Its not fastened to the boat by any other means. If you're boat was designed with a back stay, it needs to remain in place. I wouldn't even be thinking about removing any thing. The pressures exerted on the cables under sail are tremendous. They absolutely need to be there. Bad Obsession said: Hermit....you can buy, if you don't already have it, a pulley system to tension your backstay to bend your mast. This is a nice thing to be able to do at times for sail trim. Click to expand Hermit....i have the same boat. The mast does bend some when you adjust the backstay adjuster. If you go to your mast and look upward down the sail track then you can see where it is now. Then pull your backstay adjuster down hard and look at the mast. You will see that it has a bend in it now. No Stays or Shrouds needed if You've Got a spare ~$150 million No Stays or Shrouds needed if You've Got a spare ~$150 million -- No need for sheets either. See the link for pic's. Only apparent stay is to protect the radar/instrument mast. http://lyonsimaging.smugmug.com/gallery/6142227_HoUAr#386639405_KGUuN (For those that haven't seen this series of pictures before - although they were part of a thread topic last year - go through the sequence. The t-boning really did happen on SF Bay! Click on the smaller thumbnails to see the picture somewhat bigger. Right clicking on the bigger picture will give you zoom options up to 3X's. Take a look at the people on the Falcon's deck on the sailboat as they react both before and after. "Next" will scroll through the various pages of the portfolio. All-in-all, there are 40 pages of photos of the Maltese Falcon sailing in SF Bay. Some are quite good, such as sailing under the Bay Bridge.) Joe: I forgot about these models. Our HV'36 is very similar to the Freedom 36 (both have a forestay). I must tell you that it will be very difficult for me to think about going back to a boat with a full complement of standing rigging. scott is familiar with the mast setup of a freedom 36. - This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…
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Totem's boat cat Panchita reclines on the coiled Colligo backstay. Behan Gifford. We knew this because in 2008, Jamie had installed a Dynex Dux solent stay and inner forestay on Totem.He had also installed a Dux backstay on a friend's boat in Puerto Rico in 2017, and loved the results.
Another benefit of an adjustable backstay is that after a day of sailing with a tight backstay in a strong breeze, you can slacken the backstay to let the rig relax and release tension on the hull while your sailboat is moored. Direct vs. indirect backstays. Adjustable backstay designs fall into two types: direct and indirect.
The cutter rig distributes the sail area over an additional sail, and that inner forestay is a superior position from which to hank on a low-flown storm sail. But with any real force upon it, the inner forestay can distort the shape of the mast; this will require a countereffort. Enter the intermediate running backstay.
A sailboat's standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ®, carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO. 1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which ...
October 8, 2015. When setting up the backstay, you are actually setting the headstay at the same time. As you tighten the backstay, you are simply pulling the mast head aft. This counters the effect of the headstay pulling the mast head forward. As you tighten the backstay, you want to go forward and check the headstay tension.
It is easy to think of standing rigging and running rigging as two different parts on a sailboat, but in fact, they both share the same goal: Allow your yacht to sail. ... Ideally, you want to have a backstay adjuster present that way you can adjust your headstay tension while you sail along. Headstay tension is the last stay that should be ...
The running rigging on a sailboat is the lines and ropes controlling the sails and equipment. Get in the cockpit, and let's cruise through this guide together! ... Running Backstay. Running backstays is similar to a normal backstay but uses a line instead of a hydraulic tensioner. Some rigs have additional check stays or runners as well.
By The Rigging Company June 8, 2014. The Highfield lever was originally invented by the late Mr J. S. Highfield in about 1930. I believe this concept was initially intended to load and release running backstays at a predesignated tension. This method for runner tensioning has since been replaced with 'high speed' synthetics, fancy blocks ...
Whether you're cruising or racing, an adjustable backstay is a helpful device for changing sail shape and controlling forestay tension for improved upwind and downwind performance. By dialing in the right backstay tension you can increase boatspeed. Regardless of whether you have a masthead or fractional rig, using an adjustable backstay is essential to good sail shape.
Backstay Tensioner. Easy Upgrades: #1 of a seriesEvery fractionally rigged boat will have (or should have) a means of adjusting backstay tension. Its main purpose is to flatten and depower the mainsail in stronger winds, putting off the time at which a reef will be required. Because very few masthead-rigged boats are provided with backstay ...
The difference between standing rigging and running rigging. Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly: The rig or rigging on a sailboat is a common term for two parts:. The standing rigging consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the ...
The backstay is a powerful tool and you should introduce it to your toolbox for more than just keeping the rig in the boat. No matter what the rig type or stiffness the tensioning the backstay keeps the headstay from sagging. Headstay sag equals extra power in the headsail, so when you don't want the power (heeling too much) use the backstay. On boats with rigs that bend, the backstay helps ...
A boat with a fractional rig, on the other hand, had its forestay attached 3/4 to 7/8 of the distance from the cabintop to masthead, had well-swept spreaders, carried a larger mainsail and smaller jib, and had a spar that was designed to be tweaked with adjustable backstay tension.
Boat: Tartan 3800. Posts: 5,165. Attaching things to the standing rigging. There are various things that one might want to attach to the shrouds or backstay: A small antenna. The block for a flag halyard. Lights or light boards. A cleat for a boom tent. Radar.
By The Rigging Company February 23, 2016. Integral backstay adjusters can play a big role in how a boat sails. Being able to adjust the backstay tension from the pump of a handle can be useful on cruisers just as much as racers. We all need to make general changes to the boats trim depending on wind and wave conditions in order to keep control ...
A running backstay is a rigging component on a sailboat which helps support the mast. [1] [2] A running backstay runs from each lateral corner of the stern to the mast at the level where the forestay begins in the fractional rig.Because they are attached low on the mast, they can present a significant problem in an accidental gybe, as the boom hits the stay, with the possibility of breaking ...
8,416. Hunter 30T Cheney, KS. Aug 9, 2024. #3. That end is foreign to me too. I use one of my Loos gauges to adjust my split backstay. Basically I just adjust to equal tension on both sides. My first Loos gauge fit all my rigging on my old Mac26S. I had to buy the larger one to set my sidestays on Bella.
As with virtually all Harken gear, the Harken backstay adjuster is a quality piece of work. Made in Italy by Barbarossa (which Harken owns), it comes in four sizes (pin sizes from 1/2″ to 3/4″) and standard strokes from 5-1/2″ to 8-11/16″, with custom lengths available in the two larger models. The 7/16″ and 1/2″ pin models have ...
Backstay. A backstay is a piece of standing rigging on a sailing vessel that runs from the mast to either its transom or rear quarter, counteracting the forestay and jib. It is an important sail trim control and has a direct effect on the shape of the mainsail and the headsail. Backstays are generally adjusted by block and tackle, hydraulic ...
A backstay is a part of the standing rigging that runs from the mast to back of the boat, counteracting the forestay and headsail. It is an important sail trim control and has a direct effect on the shape of the mainsail and the headsail. Backstays are generally adjusted by block and tackle, hydraulic adjusters, or lines leading to winches.
A New Backstay using Compact Strand 1×19, Hayn Hi-mod Failsafe Insulators. Maintaining the Oyster Yachts Factory Spec's. SSB is a commonly used abbreviation that stands for single side band radio. We are certainly not radio experts here at The Rigging Company. ... Therefore, they cannot be re-used when it's time to replace the boat's ...
1. Check by sighting up the backside of the mast to see how straight your spar is side to side. You can take a masthead halyard from side to side to ensure that the masthead is on center. Do this by placing a wrap of tape 3′ up from the upper chainplate pin hole on each upper shroud. Cleat the halyard and pull it to the tape mark on one side ...
Rigging is designed; it doesn't just happen. Fractional rigged boats and especially B&R fractional rigged boats are a special breed. There is a long but very informative discussion on the design criteria, strengths and tuning characteristics of these rigs here in the Knowledgebase which gives lots of good info but probably irrlevent to someone with a Catalina on which the backstay is even more ...