yacht anchor chain

The Ultimate Guide To Anchors And Anchor Chain

You may have seen it already over July 4th weekend: a boater going for his/her ground tackle in a hurry only to be stopped by knots, tangles, or an anchor that is not connected properly.

Embarrassment and inconvenience aside, mismanagement of your anchoring system has the potential to cause serious damage. Besides the obvious use of anchoring up at the sandbar, an anchor also serves as an emergency brake. When you need it, you need it right away, and it must work for you.   Failure is a dangerous non-option, so in these two articles we will discuss how to keep you safe and your “e-brake” in working order.

What makes up your anchoring system?

Let’s start with what should be a refresher for most of us: some anchoring system terms. These terms are part of the vocabulary we need for discussing anchors. We will also highlight the components of the anchoring system and share tips and rules of thumb to help with anchoring product selection and best practices.

The length of galvanized metal links used to connect the anchor to the rode. The most common chain coil is BBB rated with thicker, shorter links that are stronger than standard proof chain. Chain is used for its weight and chafe protection. The chain helps the anchor to set and the rode to lie horizontally.

The long length of nylon rope with an eye splice and thimble which is attached to the anchor chain.

Anchor line comes in three-strand, braided, or 8-plait styles. The three-strand variety is popular with boaters because it absorbs shock better than braided and is less likely to fray or get cut on rocks or jagged bottoms.

Anchor line is available in various diameters and lengths depending on your boat. The larger the boat, the wider and longer the anchor line required. There are many options to consider when picking your anchor rope.

The anchor line and anchor chain combined.

Anchor Shackle

The metal load-bearing connector between the anchor chain and the anchor.

Choose a high-quality shackle that can withstand stress. Hot dip galvanized metal shackles are the most sturdy and durable.

A pivoting metal connector that some boaters install next to the anchor shackle.

Swivels are designed to release the twist in the anchor chain as it comes onboard so it will flake into the locker more easily and be ready to redeploy rapidly. Swivels are a hotly debated topic among boaters due to the potential for catastrophic failure of the swivel under high loads.

An additional length of line attached to the anchor chain and deck mooring hardware.

Snubbers help absorb shock while anchored in swells or high-wake areas. This takes strain off the windlass and deck. Snubbers are commonly used on boats deploying all-chain rodes.

Ground Tackle

All anchoring related equipment including the anchor, anchor chain, anchor line, shackles, and connectors.

The ratio of the length of anchor rode deployed to the vertical distance between the sea floor and the point where your anchor rode comes on board.

Aim for a 5:1 scope ratio minimum, although a 7:1 ratio is preferable given the room. The lower the ratio, the greater the chance your anchor may drag.

Holding power

The amount of pull force an anchor can withstand while remaining set.

Holding power is expressed in pounds and can be measured with a strain gauge. Heaver anchors and anchors with large fluke areas tend to have higher holding power.

Metal weight of any kind that is attached at some point along your anchor rode.

This ballast weight is also known as an anchor buddy/rider/chum/angel. The weight of the kellet used depends on the size of the boat. Kellets are a controversial and debated solution designed to help anchors set and avoid dragging as well as to dampen the surge from swells or wake.

The curve of the anchor rode between the boat and the anchor.

A low angle of pull on the anchor maintains the catenary curve and provides energy absorption. Due to their weight, chain rodes have good catenary curves in light to medium winds, however in strong winds, the chain goes taut and loses its curve, offering no energy absorption.

Setting The Hook: Things To Consider When Selecting An Anchor

With all the anchoring system components fresh in our minds, it is time to apply them and select the right anchor . Three variables to consider during anchor selection are:

As a rule, your anchor chain should be at least as long as your boat, but no shorter than 10 to 15-feet. Your anchor line length will depend on anchoring depth. If you will be anchoring in deeper water, you will need enough rode to achieve a proper scope ratio. The rule of thumb is to plan 8-feet of line per 1-foot of anchoring depth.

Where you anchor makes a difference. What are the currents, winds, and tides like? Will you be anchoring in protected waters? Select your anchoring equipment based on the type of locations and conditions in which you will be deploying your anchor.

Do you have a clean bottom?   What does your bottom surface consist of?   This determines not only holding power but also what anchor works best for the bottom you are anchoring in. Some anchors like a pivoting-fluke or non-hinged scoop do well in sand while others with broad flukes are best in mud. Consider a plow-shaped or grapnel anchor to dig into rocky bottoms and a heavy anchor for difficult shale, clay, and grass bottoms.

Anchor Types and Uses

Anchors come in six different types, and as we learned, the best anchor for you will depend on your boat, your location, and the sea bottom. Whichever type of anchor you choose, ensure you consult manufacturer guidelines to select an anchor weight that is heavy enough for your boat. The six types of anchors are:

Three claws help the claw or Bruce anchor dig into most types of bottoms, including rock. Note that you need a heavier anchor for your boat size to get a good set. The lower price of a claw anchor makes it a common choice with recreational boaters.

Danforth/Fluke

Pivoting flukes help this anchor bury itself in soft bottoms with grass or mud. A Danforth, or fluke type of anchor stows flat and is often used in smaller boats where space is at a premium.

The fixed upright flukes of the grapnel dig into many bottom types and offer a better hold than a standard fluke anchor in harder bottoms. A light version of a grapnel anchor can be a good choice for smaller boats.

The rounded bottom of a mushroom anchor simply rests on the seabed, making it best for small craft, canoes, and kayaks in waters with flat, even sea bottoms.

The sharp point of a plow anchor digs into rocky bottoms or those covered in grass and weeds. Plow anchors may also be called CQRs or wing anchors. They are common on larger boats that are anchoring in varying conditions and types of sea bottoms.

The newest anchor type – the scoop – works in many bottom types and has high holding power. Scoop anchors are designed to be easier to set and reset than other anchor types. Scoops are available in Rocna, Spade, or Manson configurations.

Most Common Anchoring Mistakes

Time to learn from others’ mishaps. Watch out for these common errors that boaters make when selecting or deploying their anchoring system:

• Not securing the bitter end of the anchor line – usually seen on smaller day cruisers
• Improperly sized anchor for size of boat or conditions
• Wrong anchor for sea bottom
• Not enough scope
• Not enough chain

The Takeaways

Your boat’s anchoring system is like the emergency brake on a vehicle. When you need it, you can’t afford for it to fail. Set yourself up for anchoring success by outfitting your boat with the proper anchor, rode, and other components for the boat size, boating location, and type of sea bottom you expect to anchor in.

When you get ready to anchor, confirm your anchor line is properly secured to the boat and set with sufficient scope so the anchor won’t drag. Following these basic guidelines will help ensure your time on the water is as safe as possible.

Boat Anchor Chain – 11 Things You Should Know

A boat anchor chain is one of the most important pieces of equipment on a boat. The chain attaches the anchor to the boat and provides a strong connection that can hold against even the strongest winds and waves. It’s important to choose a quality chain that will withstand wear and tear over time.

When choosing for a boat anchor chain, be sure to consider the thickness and strength of the metal. The thicker and stronger the chain, the more reliable it will be in difficult conditions. Also look for corrosion-resistant coating to protect it from rusting.

How is anchor chain made

When you’re cruising along and drop your anchor, you’re relying on a piece of equipment known as an anchor chain. This chain is made up of heavy-duty links that connect the anchor to the boat. It’s important to know how this crucial piece of equipment is made.

The process of making this chain begins with steel billets. These billets are heated until they are molten and then formed into chains. The chains are then put through a series of machines that polish and straighten them. They are also treated with a coating that helps to protect them from corrosion.

The links in an this chain can be up to nine inches long and weigh up to 14 pounds each. The entire chain can weigh more than 2,000 pounds.

Types of boat anchor chains

When it comes to boat anchor chains, there are three main types: galvanized, stainless steel, and nylon coated. The main difference between these chains is the material used in their construction. 

Galvanized chains are made of zinc-plated steel. This makes them less likely to corrode in salt water environments. However, they are also the heaviest and most expensive to consider.

Stainless steel chains are resistant to rust and corrosion. They are also lighter than galvanized chains, but more expensive. 

Nylon coated chains offer the best resistance to corrosion and abrasion. They are also lightweight and affordable.

Boat anchor chain size

When it comes to boat anchors, size does matter. The weight of the anchor is critical, but the size of the chain is also important. You don’t want to use a small chain with a large anchor, or a large chain with a small anchor.

The right size chain will help you set your anchor quickly and keep it in place. It’s also important to use a chain that is strong enough to hold your boat in place during high winds and rough seas.

The most common size for boat anchor chains is 5/16 inch. This size is strong enough to hold most boats in place, but it’s also lightweight and easy to handle. If you have a larger boat, you may want to use a chain that is 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick.

How much anchor chain do you need

Anchors and chains are important pieces of safety gear for any boat. It is important to know how much anchor chain you need for your boat in order to ensure that you have the proper weight and length of chain.

The first step is to determine the size of your anchor. This can be done by consulting your boat’s owner’s manual or by measuring the anchor itself. Once you have the size of your anchor, you can then use a chart to find out how much chain is needed.

Most boats will need between 50 and 100 feet of chain, depending on the size of the anchor and the depth of the water. It is also important to make sure that you have enough rope or line to attach the chain to the bow of your boat.

How to attach chain to anchor

When anchoring a boat, it is important to use a heavy chain to ensure the boat stays in place. The chain should be attached to the anchor and the anchor should be attached to the boat. There are several ways to do this.

One way is to use an iron shackle. This is a metal clip that can be opened and closed. The shackle can be attached to the chain and then attached to the anchor.

Another way is to use a swivel clip. This is a metal clip with a swivel on it. The swivel allows the clip to move around so that it can attach easily to both the chain and the anchor.

A third way is to use an anchor bridle. This is a piece of rope with loops on each end. One loop goes around the anchor and the other goes around the chain.

When to replace anchor chain

Anchor chain should be inspected regularly for signs of wear and tear. If the chain is worn or damaged, it needs to be replaced.

It’s important to know when to replace it. If the chain is heavily corroded, damaged, or has links that are missing or broken, it needs to be replaced. Another indication that it might be time for a new chain is if your current one doesn’t have enough length to reach the bottom in the area where you normally anchor. 

When replacing it, make sure you get the right size and type of chain for your boat.

How to choose the right anchor chain

When you’re looking for a new anchor chain, there are a few things you need to keep in mind.

The size of the boat or ship

When you are looking to buy anchor chain, it is important to consider the size of your boat or ship. If you have a smaller boat, you don’t need as much chain as someone with a larger boat. You also need to make sure that the chain is strong enough to hold your boat in place. 

The size of an anchor chain refers to the diameter of the links in the chain. A larger diameter will provide more strength and stability than a smaller diameter. It’s also important to make sure that the weight of the chain is appropriate for your boat. A heavy chain can cause problems with stability and maneuverability.

Materials of the chain

When you are choosing an anchor chain, you need to consider the material of the chain. One popular option for anchor chain material is stainless steel. Stainless steel is corrosion resistant and has a high breaking strength. However, it can be expensive and it is heavier than some other materials. 

Another option for this chain material is galvanized steel. Galvanized steel is less expensive than stainless steel and also corrosion resistant, but it does not have as high a breaking strength as stainless steel. 

Finally, some people choose to use nylon rope for their anchor chain. Nylon rope is lightweight and has a low breaking strength, but it is also very affordable.

The weight of the anchor

Whe weight of the anchor should be a major consideration when purchasing. Lighter anchors need lighter chain, while heavier anchors require heavier chain. If you choose an anchor that is too light for the chain you have, your anchor will not be able to set properly and could easily break free in a storm. 

If you choose an anchor that is too heavy for your chain, you could overload your system and cause damage to your boat or even worse, lose your boat.

The type of seabed

When choosing anchor chain, it is important to consider the type of seabed where you will be using it.

If you will be anchoring in sand or mud, you will need a heavy-duty chain with a large diameter. A chain with a small diameter will quickly become clogged with sediment and may not hold your boat in place. 

If you will be anchoring in rock, you will need a light-duty chain with a small diameter. A chain with a large diameter will cause damage to the rocks and may not hold your boat in place.

It’s also important to make sure that your chain is long enough to reach the bottom of the water where you will be anchoring.

Consider Price

Heavier and larger anchors are in general tend to be more expensive, but they are also more durable and can hold onto the bottom better in strong winds and currents.

If you’re looking for an anchor that will serve you well in a variety of conditions, it may be worth spending a little extra money on a high-quality model. However, if you’re only going to use your boat in calm waters, a less expensive option may be sufficient.

Where to buy anchor chain

If you are in the market for a new anchor chain, there are a few places you can buy it. The first place to look is usually an online retailer. There are a few reputable retailers that sell anchor chains, and they usually have a variety of sizes and lengths to choose from.

Another option is to go to a local marine store. These stores typically carry a wide variety of boat supplies, including anchor chains. They may also have anchors for sale, so it is worth checking out their inventory if you need both items.

Finally, you could also try looking for a salvage company in your area. These businesses typically sell used boat parts, and they may have an anchor chain or two available for purchase. Just be sure to ask about the condition of the chain before you buy it!

Boat anchor chain maintenance tips

Boat anchors are a necessary piece of equipment for any vessel, but proper care and maintenance is required to keep them functioning properly. One important part of anchor maintenance is keeping the chain healthy. The following tips can help you do just that:

• Inspect the chain regularly for signs of wear and tear. This includes looking for kinks, rust, and broken links.
• If you find any damage, remove the chain from service immediately and have it repaired by a qualified professional.
• Use a mild soap or detergent to clean the chain occasionally, making sure to rinse it thoroughly afterwards.
• Apply a coat of lubricant to the chain every few months to help keep it moving freely. You can apply coat of naval jelly to the links of the chain if you want. This will help to prevent corrosion. 
• Store the anchor and chain in a dry place when not in use.
• Never overload the chain or allow it to come into contact with sharp objects.
• Make sure all connections between links are tight and secure. Loose connections can cause chains to break under stress.
• If you have an electric windlass, make sure to keep it clean and well lubricated.
• Keep an extra anchor on hand, in case you need to replace one that is damaged or worn out.
• Practice using your anchors regularly, so that you’ll be familiar with how they work in different conditions.

Anchor chain vs Rope

The debate between anchor chain and rope has been around for years. Some people swear by anchor chains while others prefer ropes. So, what’s the difference?

Anchor chains are made of metal and typically weigh more than ropes. They are also less elastic, meaning they don’t stretch as much under tension. This makes them better suited for holding boats in place in windy or choppy waters. Anchor chains also tend to corrode less than ropes, making them a more durable option.

Ropes, on the other hand, are made of fibrous materials and can be lighter than chains. They are also more elastic, meaning they can stretch more under tension. This makes them better suited for tying down objects in calm waters. Ropes also tend to fray over time, while chains do not.

If your boat is heavy, then you’ll need a stronger anchor chain. A rope might not be able to hold the weight of your boat. However, if your boat is lightweight, then a rope will be just fine.

Another thing you need to consider is the type of bottom you’re anchored in. If you’re in mud or sand, an anchor chain will sink down and grip the bottom much better than a rope will.

Related: Which of the following must you do anchoring a boat at night? – 07 Things 

Stainless steel vs Galvanised anchor chain: Which is better?

When selecting an anchor chain for your boat, there are a few things you need to take into consideration. The two main types of chains are stainless steel and galvanised. So, which one should you choose?

Stainless steel anchors are made of high-quality steel that is resistant to rust and corrosion. This means they will last longer than galvanised anchors. They are also a little heavier, which can be a disadvantage when trying to lift them up off the bottom.

Galvanised anchors, on the other hand, are coated with a layer of zinc that protects them from rust and corrosion. This makes them less durable than stainless steel anchors, but they are much lighter in weight. This can be an advantage when trying to manoeuvre them into place.

However, if you live in a dry climate or your boat is stored in a covered area, galvanised chain would be fine. It’s also cheaper than stainless steel chain. If you live in a coastal area or plan to use your boat in salt water, we recommend opting for a stainless steel chain. Galvanised chain is fine for use in fresh water only.

Conclusion of Boat Anchor Chain

Boat anchor chains are an important part of any boat. They keep the boat anchored in one spot and prevent it from drifting. It is important to choose the right chain for your boat and make sure that it is properly attached.

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Understanding Anchor Chain

• By Steve D'Antonio
• Updated: October 2, 2019

All chain’s the same, right? Well, no. There’s actually a variety of types and grades of anchor chain that cruising sailors should know about. What follows is a primer on understanding anchor chain and how to use it properly.

Types of Anchor Chain

Your Chain Explained

The most popular varieties of galvanized-steel windlass chain include high-test or grade 40 (usually marked HT, G4, or HT4); triple B or grade 30 (marked as BBB or 3B); and proof coil, also grade 30 (often marked PC, PC3, or G3). Each has attributes and shortcomings. BBB and proof coil are made from low-carbon steel; heat-treated high-test is made from a high carbon-manganese alloy.

HT chain is widely used because of its “strength-to-link” factor: Its working load limit is nearly twice that of BBB chain, and it has the highest weight-to-working load ratio. In other words, it allows the use of a thinner link, which means more chain can be stored in a given chain locker. Its links are also windlass calibrated, which means that they should fit any wildcat with an “HT” designation. Such links also tend to resist tangling in the locker.

Most PC chain is designated as “non-calibrated for windlass use.” This means it’s not designed to be used with a windlass wildcat. Period. Unfortunately, this caveat is unlikely to be stamped directly on the chain, so you can never be certain if the chain falls into this category. (If chain is verifiably approved for your windlass, it may be used for anchor rodes.) PC chain has roughly the same working load as BBB chain and the same number of links per foot as HT; for 3/8-inch chain, the ratio is 9.8 links per foot of chain. It’s worth noting that some windlass manufacturers, for obvious reasons, don’t offer a PC wildcat. If someone offers you a pile of cheap PC chain, beware.

Most high-quality chain from reputable manufacturers is embossed with a designation indicating the grade. Without one, you’ll be guessing about the chain’s strength. Failing to use chain designed for a specific windlass wildcat can lead to potentially dangerous overrides (above). This chain is in no-man’s land: It can’t be lowered or raised.

At one time, though not the strongest option for a given link size, BBB was the most popular anchor chain because it’s specifically calibrated for windlasses. But its primary attribute is its weight. A 100-foot length of 3/8-inch BBB weighs approximately 165 pounds, while identical lengths of HT and PC weigh 153 and 140 pounds, respectively. With anchor rodes, weight is critical. Every additional pound increases a chain’s catenary, the sag induced by the deployed chain. Still, many builders and sailors choose HT over BBB because, for the same tensile strength, they can fit more of it into cramped chain lockers. And, again, it’s less prone to tangle.

Maintaining Your Marine Chain

Inspect your marine chain carefully and regularly. Make certain that the links fit evenly into each recess of the wildcat and that the wildcat is equipped with a stripper, a steel bar that separates tensioned chain from the wildcat as it’s being retrieved. If the stripper is absent or bent, jams are more likely to occur. Finally, be sure that the bitter end of the chain is attached to the vessel via a spliced-on section of line that’s long enough to reach the deck. The splice should fit easily through the chain hawser. If you’re dragging onto a lee shore or you’re about to be run down, this line acts as a safety valve allowing you to quickly cut the boat free from the ground tackle.

To read more monthly maintenance tips, click here.

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Boat Anchor Chain

Marine Grade Stainless Steel Anchor chains or Galvanized Steel comes with two separate thick 316 Stainless Steel or Galvanized bow shackles complementing almost all anchor style options and anchor ropes. Upgrade your old anchor chain with our premium long-lasting boat anchor chains. Try them risk free for 30 days - love them or get your money back!

MORE DETAILS

• Premium Construction: Marine Grade stainless anchor line is made from 316 Stainless Steel or available in Galvanized Steel. Unlike the old cheap chain alternatives, these boat anchor chains are designed to last and avoid corrosion. Each chain comes with 2 bow shackles.
• Safe and Reliable:  The chain is abrasion resistant and weighted to properly keep your anchor shank parallel with the sea floor. The chain in Stainless Steel 3/16" offers a working load of 750lbs and break load of 3000lbs. In 1/4" offers a 5,110 break load and shackles a 5,510 break load and the 5/16" chains offers a 7450lbs break load while the shackles offer a break load of 9480 lbs. The Galvanized versions in 3/16" have a working load of 2,500lbs and breaking of 5,000lbs. 1/4" has working load of 1500lb and breaking load of 3000lbs and 3/16" has a 750lb working load and 1500lb breaking load.
• Compatibility and Flexibility:  Designed to work with almost all anchor rope. The 3/16" and 1/4" anchor chain measures 4 ft long and the 5/16" chain measures 5 ft long. 
• Easy Seamless Upgrade: Whether you're looking for more reliable marine anchor chains, or outfitting a new boat, this is your solution. If you're interested in getting a boat anchor and boat anchor chain duo, check out our complete boat anchor kit !
• Money Back Guarantee: Try these stainless steel anchor chains risk-free for 30 days, if you don’t love them - get a full refund!
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Types, Materials, and Maintenance Tips for Anchor Chains

Table of Contents

Anchor chains are crucial in keeping marine vessels in place, even in bad weather conditions. They offer a solid connection between the anchor and the ship. It won’t be wrong to say that they are pivots for the safe and tension-free stay of the vessel in the sea.

No one ignores their importance. However, many people don’t have a basic understanding of these chains of anchors. If you are one of those, fret not! This guide will explain all the ins & outs of anchor chains – from their types to maintenance. So, let’s get started!

What Are Anchor Chains?

Anchor chains are heavy-duty components of vessels’ anchorage systems that connect the anchor to the ship and ensure the boat stays in one place. The bad weather, wind, or any other external force fails to move the vessel from its position. 

When the ship is anchored, it moves slightly along with the wind. It could cause disturbance and instability. However, the anchor chains keep the vessel still even if the winds or tides exert force against the ship. That’s what the anchor chains are all about – keep the boat stable. 

Usually, the wind is a prominent issue that captains face when they stop the ship at any location. If the vessel uses rope for connection with the anchor, it would be hard for the ship to stay in one place. Wind will easily slide or drift away. 

That drift could result in an accident if more ships stopped together. However, the anchor chains are more vigorous and more powerful. They keep the boat intact in one place by overcoming external forces such as wind, waves, etc.

Importance of Anchor Chain

There are many benefits of using anchor chains over ropes. Many people believe the ropes (used for connecting anchor and ship) are as strong as the chain. That’s a myth – the chains are more powerful and resist external forces such as strong wind, storms, waves, etc.

The ropes may provide connection – but they don’t offer ideal resistance against the external forces. Here are some benefits of using the anchor chains with the vessels:

• Saves ship from colliding with other vessels
• Gives a stable experience even when the wind is out of control
• Keep the boat in one place and avoid its drifting
• Make the retrieval of Anchor very easy and smooth
• Strong to bear the external pressure due to its durable make.

The anchor chains are effective in saving the ships in the harshest weather. For example, when many ships are anchored close together using the combination chains, they remain still or stay with minimal movement.

However, If solid winds (like a storm) cause them to move slightly, the ships’ fenders are so good that they absorb minor shocks and prevent damage. If the wind is gentle to moderate, the ships won’t even move. Thanks to the chains that reduce the movement to very minimal movement.

Types of Anchor Chains

The good thing about the anchor chains is that they are available in various sizes, thicknesses, and types. It allows the users to choose according to the size of the ship and individual preferences. The big vessels use strong, long, and durable heavy-duty chains. 

On the flip side, the small ships and boats use lightweight and shorter anchor chains per their needs. Here are some common types of anchor chains:

• Stud Link Chains
• Open Link Chains
• Combination Chains
• Galvanized Anchor Chain
• Short link chains are suitable for small vessels

1- Stud Link Chains

The stud link chains have a protrusion (similar to a stud) that connects or interlocks with the links next to it. In this way, the whole chain is organized. The protrusion or stuff helps in making a durable chain.

You might need clarification about how the stud connects with the link. Each link in this type has a specific shape or opening where the stud easily fits. These continuous connections of links through studs make them super strong and unbendable chains.

It won’t be wrong to say that the stud link chains are the strongest among the other anchor chain types. They are typically used with the bigger ships that carry heavy loads.  

2- Open Link Chains

These anchor chains are different from the stud link chain as they don’t have any protrusion or stud. Instead, the links connect without any involvement of stud and make the series of connected loops.

As I said, there is no hard body such as a stud, etc., so these chains are flexible and move quickly. They can be changed into different shapes without any issue. Their flexibility makes them suitable for small ships.

You must remember that this type of anchor chain is not very strong and is less effective in keeping the ship in one place when there is a solid or heavy wind. They are suitable for smaller boats that are not heavy and don’t carry heavy loads.

3- Combination Chains

As the name suggests, this type of anchor chain is a combination of both stud link chains and open link chains. Some portion of these chains consists of the stud, and protrusion. This portion gives chains strength and rigidness.

The other portion of this type consists of connected loops without any stud and offers more flexibility. The good thing is that these chains are usable with smaller ships and bigger vessels, depending on their sizes. 

4- Galvanized Anchor Chain

This type of anchor chain is more durable and made to withstand the harshest outdoor conditions. The reason is that the manufacturers apply a zinc coating on these chains, protecting them from rust and other elements.

They are comparatively more expensive as compared to other types. They work just like any other anchor chain mentioned above. Its resistance to corrosion due to the coating makes it stand out. Only those ships use this chain type, which remains in the sea for months.

5- Short Link Chains

These ship anchor chains are slightly different and offer more strength and durability. The reason is that the loops are very close together. The gap between two loops or links is negligible. Unlike open link chains, they are not flexible. They are more rigid, which gives them solidness and strength to bear the pressure and other elements.

Point to Remember: These short link chains typically anchor smaller vessels or boats in one place. They are strong and can even keep the loaded small vessels in one position.

Materials that Make Chains of Anchor

It is noteworthy that different materials are used in making the chains. Those materials differ in terms of their strength, durability, and cost. Here are the most commonly used materials in making anchor chains:

• Galvanized Steel
• Stainless Steel 
• High-Tensile Steel

The aluminum material is usually used in inexpensive chains lasting two to three years. This material is lightweight but not very strong. Therefore, it is less prevalent in strong high-end anchor chains.

Galvanized steel is the most widely used material in making anchor chains. Galvanized steel is the one that has a coating of zinc on it. This coating is applied through the galvanization process and imparts corrosion resistance to the steel. The anchor chains made with this material are decently strong. 

Stainless steel is the most expensive material and is only used in premium anchor chains. It consists of chromium metal as an alloy that makes it rust-proof. The anchor chains made with this material are super expensive but offer peace of mind regarding durability.

Last, high-tensile steel is also used in making anchor chains. Its strength is in the middle of galvanized steel and stainless steel. Remember that the anchor chains made with different materials also have different prices.

Maintenance Tips for Anchor Chains

In the section above, I have mentioned the lifespan of anchor chains made with different materials. However, the lifespan of the chains can be extended by taking care of them. Similarly, they will get damaged much earlier if you don’t care for them. 

Their proper maintenance is critical, making them stay with you for years. In the section below, I will give you some maintenance tips that will help you prolong the life of your anchor chains.

1- Regular Inspections

The first step is to inspect the anchor chains regularly. This inspection includes a complete checkup of every component of anchor chains. For example, you should look at every chain link or loop to ensure it is in good shape.

In the inspection process, if any part of the chain is getting rusty, take immediate steps, remove the rust, and apply lubricant or paint on it. It will help in minimizing the corrosion. If the corroded parts remain unchecked, they will become fragile, ultimately damaging the chain.

2- Figure Broken Link

The chains undergo high pressure and harsh weather conditions. The chances are high that some links or loops may get broken. If you find any link broken, repair it through welding or other methods.

The chain is a continuous connection of loops. If one loop gets broken, the whole series of loops will be affected, and the chain will be broken. You should pay attention to even the tiny cracks to ensure the chain remains in good shape.

3- Lubricate the Chains

Whether the chain has got rust or not, you should apply grease or any other lubricant on the whole chain. Using lubricants protects the chains from corrosion and the rust that could form over time.

If you have bought a new ship anchor chain, start lubricating it from day one. Do it every 2 weeks, and your chains won’t rust. Moreover, if the chain is already rusty, apply a layer of paint on it. It will stop the rust from growing further. 

4- Remove & Clean salt

The seawater is salty – and can make the chain rusty easily. Therefore, it is recommended that you remove the salty water from the chains when you arrive from the trip or tour. However, the question is how to remove the salty water from the chains.

You can easily do that by rinsing the freshwater with the help of a water pipe. The freshwater will remove all the salty water present on the chain. You won’t have to rub or apply detergent to remove the salt. Simply rinsing fresh water is good enough. 

5- Monitor Anchor Locker

Lockers are the storage area or compartment on the ship. When the anchor chains are not in use, they are placed there. However, it is essential to clean the locker compartment. If there is any moisture, it must be cleaned or removed.

If moisture is present in the locker and you place your chain there, the chances are high that it will get rusty due to the moisture present in the locker. Therefore, monitoring and proper cleaning of the locker is essential.

How to Store Marine Anchor Chain Properly?

The anchor chains can quickly get rust if they make any contact with moisture. Storing them in dry places is essential to avoid their connection with humidity. However, there is no hard, fast rule about where to store.

The vessels come with anchor lockers. These lockers are specialized portions or compartments where the chains are stored. However, cleaning the locker entirely before storing the chains there is mandatory. It will help in removing the moisture.

However, if the chains are not in work, you should find a place that is dry, and is away from the moisture. Store the chains and cover them with a big sheet so the humidity does not reach the anchor chains.

When to Change Your Anchor Chain?

The answer is: It depends! Many factors influence the lifespan and quality of the anchor chains. The regular inspection will help you know whether you should change the anchor chains.

Ideal, change the anchor chain if: 

• You notice massive wear and tear (extending to many loops and links)
• You notice severe rust that has weakened the loops
• You weld any broken part, and it gets broken again (indicating the chains’ degradation.

If the chain is 15 years old, consider changing whether it is in good shape. It will ensure the safety of your vessels. However, if the chain is made from stainless steel, you can keep the chain for up to 20 years.

Warning: If you have an aluminum chain, use it for 4 to 5 years. The reason is that this material needs to be stronger and offer the required durability.

Anchor chains are a must-have for ships. Their functionality helps keep the vessel still in the sea, even in the stormy wind. However, it is vital to have a check on them to ensure that they remain with you for the years to come. 

In this article, I have explained the types, materials, and maintenance tips for those who don’t know much about the chains and their safety. Hopefully, efforts to put this guide up will prove to be helpful for the masses.

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• Anchor & Dock

Anchor Chain & Shackles

Anchorlift Anchor Turner Kit

Anchorlift Anchor Turner Kit The Anchorlift Anchor Turner is a must have for all boat owners to remove the hassle of parking your anchor. This patent pending turner will help your anchor twist around to correctly sit in the bow roller every time. The...

Gen3 Marine Stainless Steel Anchor Swivel

Gen3 Marine Stainless Steel Anchor Swivel Keep your rope from becoming twisted up and prevent snagging with the Gen3 Marine Stainless Steel Anchor Swivel. Made from corrosion resistant stainless steel, this piece of equipment can rotate a full 360...

Gen3 Marine Stainless Steel Anchor Shackle

Gen3 Marine Stainless Steel Anchor Shackle The Gen3 Marine Stainless Steel Anchor Shackle features a corrosion resistant stainless steel making it durable in the harsh marine environment. In addition, its rounded shape makes it great anchoring and ideal...

Gen3 Marine Galvanized Anchor Shackle

Gen3 Marine Galvanized Anchor Shackle With its round shape and galvanized finish, Gen3’s Galvanized Anchor Shackle provides strong and reliable connections between your anchor, lean chain, and anchor line. The galvanized shackle features a...

Gen3 Marine Stainless Steel Anchor Chain & Shackle Kit

Gen3 Marine Stainless Steel Anchor Chain & Shackle Kit Gen3’s Stainless Steel Anchor Chain is made with 316 Stainless Steel, giving it a greater breaking strength than chains from other materials. Gen3 Marine’s anchor chain helps to...

Gen3 Marine Anchor Chain & Shackle Kit

Gen3 Marine Anchor Chain & Shackle Kit Strengthen your anchor hold by adding the Gen3 Marine Anchor Chain & Shackle Kit to your anchor line. Each size of the hot dipped galvanized anchor chains comes with two anchor shackles. Not only does...

Whitecap Vinyl Coated Galvanized Anchor Chain

Whitecap Vinyl-Coated Galvanized Steel Anchor Chain Protect your deck and gunwale with Whitecap Vinyl-Coated Anchor Chain. This heavy-duty, fully vinyl-coated galvanized chain eliminates fouled anchor lines and strengthens anchor hold. Whitecap's anchor...

Whitecap Stainless Steel Anchor Chain

Whitecap Stainless Steel Anchor Chain Whitecap Stainless Steel Anchor Chain is constructed of heavy-duty 316 stainless steel. This anchor chain eliminates fouled anchor lines and strengthens anchor hold. Whitecap stainless steel anchor chain is...

Whitecap Heavy-Duty Galvanized Anchor Chain

Whitecap Heavy-Duty Galvanized Anchor Chain Whitecap Heavy-Duty Galvanized Anchor Chain is constructed of hot dipped galvanized steel and includes triangle links on each end. This anchor chain protects deck and gunwales, eliminates fouled anchor lines,...

Whitecap Stainless Steel Eye to Eye Swivel

Whitecap Stainless Steel Eye to Eye Swivel This Whitecap Eye to Eye Swivel is constructed of durable 316 stainless steel. Available in multiple sizes. Specifications:     Size   Overall Length   Width Inside...

AnchorLift Stainless Steel Anchor Swivel

AnchorLift Stainless Steel Anchor Swivel The AnchorLift Stainless Steel Anchor Swivel attaches to the anchor shank to ensure the rode chain doesn't get twisted. AnchorLift swivels have an exclusive bronze washer between the two moving parts, which...

Lewmar Stainless Anchor Swivel

Lewmar Stainless Anchor Swivel Lewmar Anchor Swivel is made from 316 Stainless Steel and can swivel 360 degrees. Attach the swivel between the anchor and the chain, allowing the rope to swivel instead of twisting up. Models...

Greenfield PVC Coated Anchor Chain - Yellow

Greenfield Products PVC Coated Anchor Chain - Yellow Greenfield's unique, specially formulated, highly elastic PVC coating stretches to allow chain to bend and coil easy. Anchor chain is essential for safe anchoring, providing weight between the anchor...

Greenfield PVC Coated Anchor Chain - White

Greenfield Products PVC Coated Anchor Chain - White Greenfield's unique, specially formulated, highly elastic PVC coating stretches to allow chain to bend and coil easy. Anchor chain is essential for safe anchoring, providing weight between the anchor...

Greenfield PVC Coated Anchor Chain - Red

Greenfield Products PVC Coated Anchor Chain - Red Greenfield's unique, specially formulated, highly elastic PVC coating stretches to allow chain to bend and coil easy. Anchor chain is essential for safe anchoring, providing weight between the anchor and...

Greenfield PVC Coated Anchor Chain - Royal Blue

Greenfield Products PVC Coated Anchor Chain - Royal Blue Greenfield's unique, specially formulated, highly elastic PVC coating stretches to allow chain to bend and coil easy. Anchor chain is essential for safe anchoring, providing weight between the...

Greenfield PVC Coated Anchor Chain - Black

Greenfield PVC Coated Anchor Chain - Black Greenfield's unique, specially formulated, highly elastic PVC coating stretches to allow chain to bend and coil easy. Anchor chain is essential for safe anchoring, providing weight between the anchor and rode...

Whitecap Black Nylon Rope Thimble

Whitecap Industries Black Nylon Rope Thimble Black Nylon Available in 3/8" and 1/2" 

Sea Dog Quick Link

Sea-Dog Quick Link   Electro-Galvanized Steel Threaded Stock Captive nuts screw off one end to open, back on to close Skin packed Part Number A B C D E B.S. (lb...

Galvanized Anchor Chain And Shackles

Tie Down Engineering Galvanized Anchor Chain And Shackles Make anchoring a breeze by adding a length of chain to your anchor line. Includes two anchor shackles. Specifications:   Part...

Anchor Chain & Anchor Shackles

Whether you are anchoring for a quick swim or staying for the night, make sure your vessel has the right anchoring supplies to get the job done. Wholesale Marine carries an extensive line of chains and shackles from  Sea Dog ,  Lewmar ,  Greenfield ,  Whitecap , and more.

Anchor chain is used in combination with anchor line, shackles, and swivels to ensure safe anchoring. The chain helps keep the anchor in the correct setting position for a stronger hold. It also helps prevent chafing and abrasion, which can occur when rope is attached directly to the anchor.

Anchor Supplies for Every Vessel

Anchor chains come in a variety of materials, sizes, and lengths for various anchoring situations. Greenfield offers  PVC-coated Anchor chain  in a variety of colors. The specially formulated PVC coating allows the chain to bend and coil easily.

Whitecap’s Stainless Steel Anchor Chain is a durable, corrosion-resistant option for saltwater boaters. It is constructed of 316 stainless steel and is available in a variety of sizes.

Anchor shackles and swivels are essential for connecting your chain to your anchor and line. Screw pin shackles are available in stainless or galvanized steel. Anchor swivels are an alternative to shackles that allow rotation to prevent your line and chain from snagging and getting twisted up.

Purchasing the right anchoring supplies with enough strength and durability is essential. Regularly inspecting this equipment can help avoid costly repairs from anchors breaking or not holding your vessel.

Have questions about your anchoring system? Contact our customer service team of boating enthusiasts at 877-388-2628 Monday through Friday from 9:00 AM until 6:00 PM. Be sure to ask about our Captain’s Loyalty Program for additional savings on future purchases.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Is your anchor chain up the job?

• November 6, 2020

It’s all well and good having a solid anchor, but having ground tackle that is going to keep you secure is equally important, says Vyv Cox

The equipment used to anchor our boats is constantly developing as new materials and designs appear, equipment is adapted from other technologies or existing items are improved.

Old ideas are constantly questioned by rigorous testing and field experience.

Secure anchoring isn’t just about the anchor itself, however.

The whole rode that connects the anchor to the boat, made up of a number of different parts, is arguably at least as important, if not more so, than the specifics of the anchor.

If you get your ground tackle set up correctly, with an understanding of its abilities and limitations, you can be confident that the much-maligned ‘weakest link’, is not going to let you down in challenging conditions.

First, some clarification, what is meant by a rode?

A rode (more archaically called ‘cable’) is whatever comprises the connection between the anchor shank and the fixed point at the other end on the boat.

It is customary to refer to an all-chain rode or a mixed rode, meaning chain plus rope, but realistically the term also includes any component used to join any part of it together.

SHACKLE OR SWIVEL?

Many people will argue that there is no need for a swivel at all.

In many cases where there is no problem with the chain twisting, this is true and my own adage is to fit one if you find you need it but not otherwise.

My choice is to fit one because it makes turning the anchor after recovery so much easier, when inevitably it comes up the ‘wrong’ way around, and this may even be essential for some self-launching and recovering anchor systems.

Some chains twist naturally, perhaps due to uneven wear on adjacent links and some shapes of anchor rotate quite violently as they are being recovered.

Using a shackle between chain and anchor is simple and strong, as long as twisting isn’t an issue

If you find that your chain is regularly twisted on recovery, or becomes twisted in the locker, it may be that a swivel will help.

There are other solutions to anchors emerging the ‘wrong’ way, to be discussed shortly.

If opting to use only a shackle it’s wise to select one a size bigger than the chain.

The pin of a 10mm shackle will fit through an 8mm chain link and most modern anchors are slotted to allow the eye of a shackle to pass through it.

The same applies to a 12/10mm combination.

Shackles come in two basic shapes,:a ‘D’ and a bow.

Bow shackles proved to be as strong as ‘D’ shackles

A ‘D’ would appear to offer better straight line strength but the bow would seem more able to cope with changes in pull direction.

The reality is that when I carried out destructive testing on both types there was no significant difference between either shape.

Chandlery-bought stainless steel shackles were generally stronger than their galvanised equivalents as shown in Table 1 below.

If we look at galvanised alloy steel shackles for the lifting and hoisting industries, however, we can see that those in the Crosby G209 A range, in Table 2 for example, are considerably stronger than any of the ‘marine’ offerings tested.

CMP, makers of the Rocna anchor, market another high strength shackle, the Titan Black Pin.

This make is marketed by some UK mail order chandleries.

Again, the strength offered by heat-treated alloy steel greatly exceeds the figures obtained from chandlery bought items, Table 3.

ANCHOR CONNECTORS

An answer to the problem of anchors recovered the ‘wrong’ way has been developed in Australia.

This is a simple asymmetric device called a Boomerang.

Gravity simply causes the anchor to rotate on the bow roller .

It is shackled to the anchor chain at one end and to a short length of chain between it and the anchor.

It therefore requires two shackles and an adequate distance between the bow roller and windlass.

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I tested a cranked swivel by Osculati working by the same principle but in my experience found it to inhibit setting of the anchor.

This may be due to the greater angular displacement offered by this device.

The marketplace offers a bewildering variety of swivels, ranging from roughly galvanised designs costing under £10 to beautifully engineered works of art in exotic materials costing well into three figures.

Connectors that are built down to a price will be fairly lightly built and will rely on two metal loops bolted together, as seen bottom right.

An anchor swivel will help eliminate twists, but the straight side arms can fail under lateral loading

This design is widely sold in chandleries and mail order outlets but any design that relies upon bolted components to carry the load of the chain or anchor is likely to have poor loading capacity and is best avoided.

In the destructive tests that I carried out the only swivels that had higher strength than the chain to which they were intended to connect were those in which the bolt simply held two forged parts together, the Osculati and the Kong.

In these the strength is provided by the forged construction, inherently strong and tough, as in the image below.

The only potential weakness would be if the connecting bolt were to undo, so I always use some thread lock on the swivel bolt.

This has proved to be totally reliable over 10 years plus.

The type illustrated has the disadvantage that any angled loads to the end of the anchor tend to bend the parallel arms of the swivel, although the designs normally offer lateral loading capacity equivalent to the SWL of the chain.

I devised a simple way to avoid the problem in 2007, reported in YM, and now widely used in anchoring advice.

Adding in three chain links between swivel and anchor retains the benefits, while allowing full articulation

This is the addition of two or three links of chain between the swivel and anchor, allowing total articulation.

More recently several manufacturers including Mantus and Ultra have introduced compact, expensive designs that allow articulation by eliminating side arms.

The top swivel shown above is by Mantus, using an incorporated bow shackle and forged pin to carry chain loads, while below it, the Ultra flip swivel uses two forged pins and utilises a ball joint that gives better articulation than parallel side arms up to about 45o-degrees of lateral displacement. Wasi make a similar swivel.

Were the anchor to be wedged in rock and the tide direction reversed, it could be imagined that high bending loads might be imposed upon the rather narrow necks, though the manufacturers claim breaking loads above that of chain.

A simple boomerang link will flip the anchor the right way up in recovery

The Osculati twist anchor connector combines the boomerang idea with a swivel

ANCHOR CHAIN

As a rough guide to the right size chain for your boat, in 8mm Grade 30 chain is sufficient for boats up to about 37ft, 10mm up to 45ft and 12mm above that, but the displacement of the boat is an additional factor.

There is also clearly a difference in the chain needed for weekend pottering and extended high-latitude cruising.

A good way to decide on chain size is to consult chandlery websites, where good information is available.

Chain failure is very rare, thanks to a typical safety factor of 4:1.

The length of chain needed is also very much location dependent.

Cruising the Irish Sea I carried little more than 50 metres but for more sustained cruising I have extended that and now carry 65 metres.

Some areas further afield are blessed with deeper water anchorages for which lengths of up to 100 metres may be desirable.

A well-drained chain locker will prolong the chain’s life

Chain is heavy

A yacht intending to cruise extensively might well carry 100 metres, amounting to 140kg for 8mm, 230kg for 10mm, stowed well forward where sailing performance would benefit least.

By substituting a smaller size but a higher grade some useful weight-saving is gained.

As an example, by reference to Table 4, carrying 100 metres of 8mm, Grade 70 instead of the same length in 10mm Grade 30 would save 90kg in the anchor locker and almost double the strength of the rode, from 4,800 to 8,400kg.

Marine chain in sizes up to 12mm is dominated by Chinese production, although one or two European manufacturers continue to produce.

The main UK importers of galvanised chain are probably Bainbridge and William Hackett.

The chain is nominally Grade 30 but testing has shown UTS figures to approach or even exceed the values required of Grade 40.

Many manufacturers reduce the thickness of zinc on production chain, with the result that many purchasers see rust after only two or three seasons.

AISI 316 stainless steel chain is normally to Grade 30 specification.

It is almost rust-free and its smooth finish does not heap in the locker, but it costs roughly four times that of galvanised chain.

Higher grades of stainless steel, 318L in Grades 50 and 60, are known as Cromox.

They have double the strength of 316 chain and considerably better corrosion resistance.

Chain in this material does not come cheap.

The Mantus (pictured above) and Ultra (below) are modern swivels that seek to eliminate earlier swivels’ weaknesses

The chief advantage of a mixed rode is weight saving, desirable in smaller or lighter yachts and particularly in catamarans.

Rope for mixed rodes may be three-strand or octoplait, either of which can be spliced to the chain if it is required to pass through a windlass.

Instructions for doing this are widely available on the internet but it will be necessary to consult the windlass manual to determine the precise type of splice that will pass through the gypsy.

Nylon is probably the most widely used material for this duty but polyester is also employed, nylon having rather more elasticity, especially in three-strand form, although nylon three-strand goes quite hard and inflexible after some time, not a desirable property in an anchor rode.

Octoplait seems to retain its flexibility to a greater extent.

Elasticity is very desirable in the rode, provided by a snubber in an all-chain rode but inherent in a mixed rode.

A medium-term problem with splices is that the rope remains wet for long periods, causing premature corrosion of the chain.

Regular inspection and fresh water washing is advisable.

For boats without a windlass, or for kedge use, it may be more convenient to splice a thimble into the end of the rope for attachment to the chain with a shackle.

A typical mixed rode will have about 30 metres of chain and maybe 50 metres of rope.

For most anchoring in moderate tidal ranges only the chain will be used, avoiding the difficulties that sometimes occur feeding rope into the chain locker, or worse, down a spurling pipe.

EXTENDING CHAIN

It is sometimes necessary to join two or more lengths of chain that are required to pass through a windlass.

This might be because it has been decided to carry a longer chain due to changing cruising grounds, or just because some corroded links need to be cut out.

The only way to do this is with a C-link.

This clever little device comprises two halves of a chain link that can be riveted together to form a single link.

When made up, and in the same material as the chain, a C-link has about half the strength of the mild steel chain that it is intended to join.

An eye splice is simpler, and can be connected via a shackle

A chain splice will allow the join to pass through a windlass

Chain stored with wet rope can rust more quickly

For this reason a top quality C-link is made from heat-treated alloy steel that is about twice as strong as mild steel.

The result is a link that is as strong, or more usually stronger, than the chain.

It is an unfortunate truth that the vast majority of C-links sold in chandleries are made from mild steel, or possibly stainless steel.

These will have 50 to 60% of the chain strength when well made up.

Once again we turn to the lifting and hoisting industry where we find alloy steel C-links that will not compromise the strength of our chain.

Crosby also supply these, known as the G335 ‘Missing Link’, in Table 5.

Due to the fact that they are hardened and tempered, it takes some serious effort to peen the rivets.

A large hammer and drift on an anvil is the recommended technique.

ATTACHMENT TO THE BOAT

It would be remiss not to mention attachment of your anchor rode’s bitter end to the boat.

Should you pay out too much chain or should the windlass fail without doing so could easily result in the loss of your ground tackle.

Do not, however, shackle your chain to the boat.

If the anchor becomes fouled, or you need to let go the anchor in an emergency, you need to be able to let it go under load, and the only reliable way of doing this is by lashing the end of the chain to a dead-eye in the anchor locker, so that it can be cut in a hurry, or untied and attached to a large fender, should you need to let go the chain.

It’s also worth inspecting the dead-eye itself: is it big enough fitting?

Is the bulkhead it is bolted into in good condition, and does it have something to spread the load on the other side?

RECOMMENDATIONS

The rode’s bitter end should be securely attached to a solid point in the locker, but must be easy to let go in an emergency

C-Links are used to join chain. The two halves are placed together and the rivet peened inside the hole with a hammer and drift until fully secure

Modern anchors offer great improvements in holding power compared to those of yesteryear.

The rode that attaches them to the boat should also be of good quality.

Nominal Grade 30 chain is probably the most widely used and is generally totally reliable but, if the boat size is marginal for the recommended size, increasing the grade provides greater strength without the expense of a windlass gypsy change.

Grades 40 and 70 offer strength increases while Cromox gives the additional corrosion resistance.

Swivels should be types that do not rely on bolts to carry anchoring loads, whether on the anchor or the chain attachment.

Only use a swivel if you find it useful as they are not essential and can introduce weakness to the rode.

Galvanised alloy steel shackles from the lifting industry provide the greatest strength.

Wichard HR shackles (17/4 PH) were the strongest stainless steel shackles in testing.

Nylon rope has greater elasticity than polyester and three-strand construction has more elasticity than octoplait.

Nylon octoplait is a good compromise.

Alloy steel C-links from the lifting industry are as strong as Grade 30 chain but not advised for higher grades.

Mild steel and 316 stainless steel C-links have about half the strength of Grade 30 chain.

About the author

Vyv Cox is a retired metallurgist and engineer who normally spends six months of the year on board his Sadler 34 in the Mediterranean

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What is Anchor Chain – Everything You Should Know

As we learned in the article on types of anchors , nautical equipment that is used to restrict structural or vehicular movement in the water using a combination of weight and friction along the bed of the ocean or seafloor is known as an anchor.

Its primary purpose is to provide a mechanism for ships and boats to hold their position either during berthing and mooring operations at ports, or for large offshore installations such as semi-submersible oil rigs to remain stationary above an oil deposit.

To do so, the anchor grips on to any rocks or debris at the bottom of the ocean or sea, to provide a pivot about which the vessel will remain stationary.

Along with this, anchors can also increase the drag of any vessel in situations where it is so required. When trailing behind the ship, they serve as an artificial drag mechanism.

By letting the anchor follow in the wake of the ship, the entire vessel is stabilized against any abrupt wave motions during storms. This is a key factor in preventing green water loading and bow slamming. Green water is a technical term for any water present on the upper deck of the ship.

Bow slamming refers to the large forces exerted on the fore hull of the vessel by waves during storms. By allowing the anchor to absorb huge amounts of load and redirect forces away from the hull of the ship, the vessel can remain relatively stable even during unfavourable conditions.

Importance of the Anchor Chain

As seen, the anchor plays a major role in a vessel and offshore operations . However, it can only function as long as it remains attached to the floating structure.

Considering the tremendous amounts of force applied to the connection between the anchor and the ship during routine berthing or anchoring conditions , conventional methods of securing the anchor will eventually fail under the extensive stress.

The anchor chain refers to the component that attaches the anchor to the boat or structure and is usually referred to as the anchor rode (or anchor cable). It is superior to conventional methods in terms of strength and load-bearing.

The purpose of the anchor rode is to secure the anchor to a part of the vessel in such a manner that it can be easily hauled up when the need arises.

It also plays a major role in absorbing a certain portion of forces away from the main structure and anchor head. For instance, during storms or other similar weather conditions , the vessel or offshore rig tends to pitch and heel. This motion can intensify, causing damage to the vessel.

To dampen these forces, the anchor rode is designed to absorb a certain amount of the load. Since anchor chains and cables are built to withstand large forces on them, they are not drastically damaged or deformed by such loads. This absorption of forces away from the main structure and anchor is known as dampening.

Important factors to keep in mind while selecting or designing the anchor chain are the

• maximum permissible loads,
• ease of storage, and
• the expected length of the rode.

The stresses need to be checked for every unit of the rode. Metal chains have links as their primary unit component, while ropes and cables have fibres.

Ease of storage is another key factor in rode design. If the anchor rode cannot be reeled back in and then stored securely, it could lead to damage of the hull.

Every vessel or offshore installation has a rough idea of the operating locations, and consequently the maximum and minimum depths of the waterbodies at these locations. Based on these, the anchor rode is manufactured at a particular length at which it must be securely fastened.

The ratio of the length of the anchor rode paid out, and the actual depth of the waterbody is known as the scope. It represents a trade-off between vessel drifting and vertical forces on the anchor.

Scopes are usually in the range of 5:1 to 7:1. Shorter rodes have lesser slack, hence the ship does not easily drift off due to the natural wave motions. However, since the angle between the seabed and anchor rode is nearly ninety degrees, shocks and jerks are directly transferred to the rode and subsequently the vessel.

If the scope is increased beyond a certain value, it would drastically decrease the forces on the vessel, but would also allow the vessel to drift out into a larger region.

Forces on the Rode (Or Anchor Cable)

To decide the material and structural requirements used while designing the chain, it is important to analyze the various forces acting on it. The major forces acting on the rode include tensile, compressional, vibrational, torsional, thermal and chemical forces.

Tensile forces refer to loads that attempt to elongate any structure in the longitudinal direction. Conversely, compression refers to loads that contract the entire structure.

Vibrational loads arise due to machinery and other vessel components that have high frequencies of operation. For instance, the anchor chain located near the engine is subject to large strains since the engine vibrates at a high rpm.

Torsion refers to the twisting of a structure when one end is kept fixed. This causes distortion when the individual links or fibres get knotted. Since a large weight acts at the other end of the chain, deformations can occur.

Thermal forces arise because of temperature changes that occur near the anchor. Between the day and night, varying weather conditions could heat or cool the rode. This hot-cold cycle can induce thermal stresses that cause material fatigue. Lastly, chemical forces occur due to the corrosion of the material forming the rode, either due to rusting or because of exposure to organisms in the water.

The right blend of materials must be used to manufacture the anchor rode. Broken connections can be extremely dangerous during berthing operations for ships and offshore installations. Two common methods of designing the anchor are used: metal links known as chain rode or ropes known as an anchor cable.

Anchor Cable/Rope

In this type, the individual units are fibres running along the length of the entire rode. They are twisted for added strength and are often covered in some form of the sheath.

These types of rodes are extremely lightweight and flexible since they are essentially made of rope. Also, they can absorb large amounts of loads because of the high yield stress. However, the biggest disadvantage of using anchor cables is that they are prone to chaffing and can wear out easily.

Rubbing against underwater debris, or friction generated between adjacent cable fibres are major causes of this form of degradation. Another common problem with this type of anchor rode is that it can split apart when the internal stresses exceed the permitted levels.

These types of anchor rodes are used for small boats, watercraft, and lightweight vessels. Larger structures place undue stress on the fibres that may result in them giving away in the middle of an operation. There are several methods of manufacturing anchor cables that are more resistant to loading.

The most common type of cable is the twisted cable. Two or more individual cables are twisted against each other until they form a single, strong cable. The benefit of this method is that it increases the strength without increasing the production time considerably.

The issue is that there may be the partial unravelling of the cable when forces are applied on it. The second type is the braided and double braided cable. In this style, the individual fibres are twisted together and braided, instead of just the cables.

Double braided cables have an internal braided core that is then covered by an outer braided sheath. The benefit is that this type of anchor cable is extremely strong. However, the time taken to manufacture the cable can be labour intensive.

Natural fibres such as hemp and jute are rapidly being replaced with synthetic fibres that are considerably stronger. Polyamides are a common material for cables, and a well-known variety is Nylon. It has a high resistance to damage from exposure to UV from sunlight and has a near 30% elasticity that makes it suitable to absorb and dissipate forces.

A replacement for nylon cables is polyester, known by its commercial name Dacron. These nearly possess the same strength as Nylon but are not as elastic. To overcome this lack of dampening, a longer rode can be paid out.

Polyester is better than Nylon when it comes to retaining its length and overall shape when it is exposed to water. In addition, it has better resistance to damage from UV exposure and abrasion.

A slightly less common alternative is polypropylene, which is preferred since it floats in water. However, it is not as strong and is extremely sensitive to UV exposure. A common replacement for the standard synthetic rodes is the combination of reinforced polymer braided with conventional nylon or Dacron.

By doing this, the strength to weight ratio of the rode becomes considerably large, while keeping the overall length and scope the same. These reinforced anchor cables are common in offshore installations and are used by tug boats to pull various structures in ports.

Anchor Chain

The anchor chain is made up of multiple link segments that resemble closed loops. Each loop is connected through to its neighbouring loops, creating a chain of any given length.

The major advantage with this type of anchor rode is that it is resistant to the wear and tear that is extremely common with anchor cables. Because it is generally made of metal, the rubbing action between two adjacent links will cause only small deformations over long periods.

Compared to the problem of chaffing with cables, the chain rode can withstand almost all types of friction-related deformations with the application of lubricants. Most lubricants eventually come off as a result of continuous exposure to water. However, this merely requires the anchor to be wound back up, and the required links to be coated in grease.

Although common lubricants such as WD-40 are used, their toxic effects on the marine flora and fauna because of chemical exposure have gradually resulted in them being switched out for grease and other types of lubricants.

Another advantage with the anchor chain is that it can compactly fit in the anchor chain storage locker, because of the individual weight of each link. Unlike rope or cable that tends to be elastic, and hence more difficult to coil up, the individual links are much easier to store.

However, the biggest problem with using chains, especially for large structures such as ships or offshore installations, is that the anchor rode becomes extremely heavy. When this is combined with the weight of the anchor itself, the total mass of the system comes to a few tons.  To be able to haul up this weight, heavy-duty motors or cranes are required, that can complicate the operation.

Another issue is that metal does not absorb as much energy compared to cable or ropes. Because of this, it is often not able to redirect any jerks or other disturbances being generated from the ocean bed or seafloor. If the entire chain abruptly becomes taut because of natural wave motions, a massive shock can be transmitted to the vessel or structure, that can cause failure and metal fatigue over time.

An interesting aspect of anchor chains is the catenary action of weighted links. Since each link weighs a sizeable amount, the entire chain tends to sag or fall in the middle because of this weight. Catenary refers to the natural shape that a chain takes when it is suspended between two points.

The benefit of this catenary action is that it decreases the initial angle between the seafloor or ocean bed and the anchor rode. Because of this, a certain amount of forces and loads are absorbed and dissipated away from the structure and anchor. However, this only takes place as long as the angle remains small and there are acceptable ranges of loads.

This type of anchor rode is mainly used for large vessels and offshore installations. This is because these structures are considerably heavy, displacing several tens of thousands of cubic metres of water. If a cable rode is used to anchor these structures, it will eventually chaff and simply break apart.

Heavy-duty metal chain links are used that can withstand the enormous loads placed on the chain. Common materials that are used in manufacturing the individual metal links include high carbon steel and heat-treated high carbon steel. The latter is known as the transport chain or G70 and has an exceptional strength to weight ratio that makes it ideal for such purposes.

Combination of Cable and Chain Anchor

Considering the various parameters involved in the pure chain and rope designs, a combination of both types of anchor rodes would be able to eliminate certain disadvantages.

This is used in large offshore structures and large cruisers. The combination works on the principle that the chain portion of the anchor rode would be present in areas where abrasion of conventional cables is likely to occur. This would ensure that the overall integrity of the structure remains intact, while not affecting the dampening effect of the rode.

Thus, the chain portion is attached directly to the anchor stock, while the cable forms the rest of the rode. In general, the junction between the chain and cable is the weakest portion in the rode, and specialized methods of joining both types of rodes must be used.

A galvanized connection is used to cover the junction, and the cable fibres are partially connected to the chain. Along with this, the cable can be spliced directly into the chain.

Another advantage in using a cable-chain combination is that the angle between the bed and anchor rode decreases, which in turn decreases the vertical loading on the floating structure. However, it only works in moderate to light underwater currents. Otherwise, the chain is not heavy enough to remain on the ocean bed.

The solution is to pay out a longer rode that will aid in dissipating a certain amount of energy away from the anchor. The risk of drifting increases with a proportional increase in the rode length, and it is advisable to optimize the length of anchor rode paid out based on these parameters.

Anchor Chain Marking

The scope of the anchor rode plays an important role in balancing the amount of drift and forces borne by the chain or cable during anchoring operations. Thus, it is important to have an accurate value of the length of the anchor rode paid out. To measure this, specialized markings are present on the anchor rode, so that the length paid out can be visually identified by the anchor operator and other personnel.

The most common methods of marking the anchor rode are- plastic marker elements or painted sections. Plastic elements such as zip-ties and blocks are fairly common owing to the ease of setting up and replacing these components once they wear off.

In addition, since they are made of plastic, they have a higher life on the seas compared to paint and other methods. Coloured zip ties are knotted at regular intervals (the standard is 25 feet or slightly more than 7.5 meters) and they indicate the length that has already been paid out.

Colour codes indicate the length and are generally composed of white, red and blue based on maritime standards. However, the issue with plastic components is that they can get caught in the windlass and other anchoring equipment.

Moreover, they can break apart if continuously rubbed on the hawsepipe and tethering spool. The broken plastic portions can end up polluting the waters and pose a grave environmental hazard that cannot be overlooked.

Paint is another fairly common method of marking anchor chains. This follows a three-colour system, similar to the plastic tie method. Each of these colours indicates a specific digit and a significant number of the length of the anchor rode.

The functioning is similar to the markings of resistor bands on electric equipment. Each of the three bands in a certain order can represent a unique number, based on the determined marker differences.

For instance, a certain ship operator decides that the difference between two adjacent painted marks on the anchor rode is to be 25 feet. Then, a certain order of the three bands will indicate a unique multiple of 25, that can be used to identify the length of the rode paid out.

Painting these bands is a common approach, especially since environment-friendly paints are easily available on the market. However, the only issue with this method is that the paint can wear off rather rapidly owing to the harsh climates it is exposed to. To combat this wear and tear, frequent coats must be applied, and the bands must be made wide enough so that even if the paint flakes off, there is still a sizeable portion left to correctly identify the anchor rode length with.

Anchor Chain Stowage Arrangement

From the previous discussion, it is evident that the anchor chain plays a vital role in conjunction with the anchor. However, since modern anchors are made from metal or from a rope, they stand a high chance of wear and tear related issues, such as rusting or chaffing.

The solution is to constantly monitor the anchor rode whenever it is hauled back on to the vessel.

For this, special stowage arrangements have to be made such that the rode is kept safely away from corrosive substances and so that it can be easily accessed for either maintenance or to paid out with the anchor.

Anchor chains are stored in a chain locker set deep within the hull of the vessel. These are ventilated enclosures that are used to store the anchor while it is not in use, and to house the remaining length of the anchor chain while it is deployed. It can be accessed by engineers and personnel for routine checks or long-term maintenance.

Generally, the floor of the chain locker is reinforced, so that it can bear the extra weight of the metal rode. To haul the chain out of the locker, a series of heavy-duty motors and gears are set up on the deck in pairs.

The reason for the pairing of the anchor stowage equipment is so that there are individual components for the port and starboard side anchors. In the event of mechanical failure, if both anchor lines were operated by the same windlass, it could leave the vessel prone to drifting. The windlass is the technical term used to define the motor that lowers or lifts the anchor chain.

Along with the windlass, a secondary spool is present in front of it, on the deck. The purpose behind this is to ensure that the individual links do not get entangled while being moved. It straightens the chain and slowly feeds it out of the vessel. There is a locking mechanism present on this spool so that the chain can be fixed at the desired length once it is deployed.

Lastly, the hawsepipe or cat’s hole is the gap in the hull through which the anchor rode is paid out. It serves three main purposes- to feed the anchor chain, to house cleaning equipment for the rode, and to hold the anchor head in place. As defined, the hawsepipe allows an outlet on the port and starboard sides for the chain to be lowered or lifted into the chain locker.

Moreover, when the chain is hauled out of the water, there is a high chance that it may be littered with subsurface gravel, mud and even living organisms. To get rid of this organic matter, hoses are fitted along the mouth of the hawsepipe, so that the rode can be cleaned before storage.

Finally, the anchor is firmly held on to the side of the hull by the locking mechanism provided on the hawsepipe. It also restricts the movement of the anchor head, which would otherwise cause damage if left unattended, especially during storms.

Anchor rodes play an important role in securing the anchor to the vessel or structure. Without the right choice of type and materials, there can be serious consequences for the structural integrity of the anchor system. Based on the type of linking, anchor rodes can be broadly classified into cable and chain types.

Cables are preferred for lightweight and small boats, whereas chains are common for larger structures such as ships and offshore rigs. Modern anchor rodes combine both these types to improve durability, dampening effects and overall strength of the anchor.

The scope is a measure of the ratio of the length of anchor paid out and the depth of the waterbody. By choosing the right type of anchor rode based on the vessel size and overall operating conditions, and by opting for the right materials to manufacture the rode with, the life of the anchor system can be increased.

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About Author

Ajay Menon is a graduate of the Indian Institute of Technology, Kharagpur, with an integrated major in Ocean Engineering and Naval Architecture. Besides writing, he balances chess and works out tunes on his keyboard during his free time.

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Anchor Chain, Leaded Anchor Lines & Accessories

Anchors | Boat Hooks  | Chain, Anchor Lines & Accessories  | Fenders & Accessories | Mooring Lines & Compensators | Windlasses & Accessories

Force 4 Chandlery keeps galvanised calibrated anchor chain suitable for most windlass gypsies, that can be used as part of anchor rode when coupled with a  3 strand rope or a multiplait/octoplait rope . There is also the slightly more lightweight option for smaller boats and personal watercraft in leaded or weighted anchor lines, rope with a weighted core.

Lengths of chain can be cut to order, in metre increments in the following sizes: 6mm; 8mm; 10mm and 12mm. Alternatively chain can be ordered in 30 metre lengths in sizes: 6mm; 8mm and 10mm.

We also have a good choice of accessories to as a means of attaching your chosen anchor chain to your anchor in the form of anchor swivels and connectors. Other accessories include chain hooks, anchor chain markers, anchor snubbers, chain links and more.

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