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Time Machines: Delving Into The ‘Cult Of Genta’ With The IWC Yacht Club II Watch
Ask any enthusiast to name one watch designer, and the answer will almost invariably be Gérald Genta. Over the course of his decades-long career, Genta designed watches for a dizzying variety of brands from Audemars Piguet to Credor, launched multiple brands of his own, and arguably created the entire genre of integrated bracelet luxury sports watches singlehandedly. Still, even over a decade after his passing, Genta remains a monolithic figure in the watch community, and no designer before or since has garnered nearly the same sort of reverence among fans. What is it, then, that makes Gérald Genta such a unique focus for both enthusiasts and high-dollar collectors? Perhaps the best way to explore what makes Genta a cult figure in the watch community is to contemplate one of his designs – in this case, the late ‘70s IWC Yacht Club II. Slender, elegant, and bursting with understated complexity, the IWC Yacht Club II distills many of Genta’s favorite design cues into a clean and restrained package, without the baggage of many of his more famous designs.
Introduced at the height of the Quartz Crisis in 1977, the Yacht Club II was the second integrated watch Gérald Genta designed for IWC after 1974’s more famous Ingenieur. The previous C-cased Yacht Club had been a perennial bestseller for the brand through much of the ‘60s and ‘70s, but like the rest of the industry, it had suffered substantially from cheaper, more accurate Japanese quartz competition. Rather than vehemently rejecting the idea of quartz and moving as upmarket as possible, à la Audemars Piguet, IWC instead settled on a hybrid strategy, creating world-class mechanical timepieces and supplementing them with luxe takes on still-innovative quartz technology. The Yacht Club II was the lynchpin of this new strategy, offered with both an in-house IWC Caliber 2250 quartz movement and an ultra-thin JLC 889 automatic and presented as a more casual, lifestyle-oriented alternative to the more seriously sporting Ingenieur or Aquatimer. Genta’s design for the Yacht Club II reflects this philosophy, with a softer, less utilitarian silhouette than the Ingenieur, multiple strap and bracelet options, and an emphasis on slimness.
The IWC Yacht Club II’s case sits at the heart of this design concept. This reference 3312 “Jumbo” model measures in at 38mm wide, but much of the overall form emphasizes this watch’s low, broad stance on the wrist. The stout, squared-off integrated lugs play a major part in this stance, barely extending beyond the bezel and tapering only gently from the case’s widest point. Like many other Genta designs, the overall case shape is roughly octagonal, anchored by a wide octagonal bezel, but in this case, the geometric form continues uninterrupted into squared-off, vertical potions of the case sides at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock. Rather than coming across as brutish or heavy, however, these segments instead work to emphasize just how slender the Yacht Club II is on the wrist, particularly thanks to the even slimmer lug profiles on either side. In true Genta fashion, however, the geometric bezel forms the centerpiece of the case. Rather than Genta’s most famous models, which either define this bezel in harsh polished angles or smooth curves, the Yacht Club II combines both into a broad, intriguing shape defined more by finishing than crisp, distinct planes. The uppermost surface of this bezel is circular and fully flat, crowned with smooth, understated radial brushing. Between this top layer and the octagonal bezel edge is an exceedingly gradual sloping polished chamfer, which contrasts dramatically with both the flat circular bezel top and the sheer, vertical planes of the bezel edge. Genta confidently left this chamfer as the only brightwork anywhere on the Yacht Club II’s exterior, with both the rest of the case and the bracelet finished with restrained, gentle brushing. That’s not to say the watch isn’t excellently finished, however, and the vertical brushing on each side of the octagonal bezel — over a surface barely more than a millimeter high — reinforces the ultra-premium feel of the watch overall. In order to preserve the strength of the shape on the wrist, the crown is small and deeply recessed, and the crystal is completely flush with the bezel.
Of course, any discussion of a Genta watch design isn’t complete without its bracelet, and the IWC Yacht Club II’s is a suitably crisp and restrained affair. The defining characteristic of this integrated stainless steel bracelet is its broad, oversized rectangular end links. While they may not be as distinctive a visual hallmark as the Royal Oak’s twin polished end links, these links reinforce the simpler, more subdued geometric character of the watch overall, and help the bracelet wrap impressively well around the wrist. From there, the bracelet takes on a flat tapering H-link shape, but without the rounded, raised center links of the Ingenieur or the Patek Philippe Nautilus. This flatter form and the fully brushed finishing here resonate well with the Yacht Club II’s quieter, more gentlemanly approach to integrated design, but some fans might find it oversimplified compared to Genta’s more famous integrated bracelets.
Like the case and bracelet, the dial of the IWC Yacht Club II takes on many of the hallmarks of classic Genta design in a quieter, subtler way. For example, the black dial here is textured, but in a far less overt way than the Royal Oak’s tapisserie or the Nautilus’ “deck planks.” Instead, IWC uses a complex, slate-like naturalistic stone texture, allowing for a myriad of minute highlights and shadows across the matte surface. The rest of the dial is elegantly straightforward, with pointed applied indices matched by sharply faceted pencil hands. While the tritium lume application here is minimal, it has aged to a creamy light khaki tone that suits the off-black hue of the dial handsomely.
Like most examples of the IWC Yacht Club II, this particular reference 3312 example is equipped with the brand’s own Caliber 2250 quartz movement. At the time of its introduction, quartz was still a novel, high-tech segment of watchmaking, and Caliber 2250 models actually retailed for more than their automatic-powered counterparts. Even today, the Caliber 2250 is an excellent example of early Swiss luxury quartz horology, with quality construction and respectable accuracy.
There has never been, and there might never be, another watch designer who commands the kind of reverence from both enthusiasts and industry insiders that Gérald Genta does. While multitudes of other designers and brands have taken their attempts at the sort of integrated sports designs he helped to pioneer, few of these show the same effortless balance and fanatical attention to detail that Genta’s work portrays. The late ‘70s IWC Yacht Club II is stylish, gentlemanly proof of this “Genta magic” in action, with a more relaxed, subtle flair than many of his more industry-shaping works. Even in quartz guise, it’s a highly sought-after piece among vintage collectors, and it’s a powerful reminder of the joys to be found by looking beyond Genta’s biggest icons.
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IWC Yacht Club II Jumbo - *Unpolished*
This IWC reference 3312 is a jumbo sized Yacht Club II variant coming in at 38mm. It shouldn't come as a surprise that Gerald Genta designed this model, which is of course reminiscent of his other iconic creations. The slim hexagonal case proportions and beautiful integrated bracelet make it feel sporty, yet comfortable and elegant on wrist. The quartz movement is a high grade Swiss caliber coming from none other than IWC. We believe that this reference is arguably more interesting than the quartz APs of the era and still remains in the affordable category for now. This example is a rare find in terms of its condition level with an excellent dial, unpolished case/bracelet with virtually no stretch. We can't stop staring at the retro "Yacht Club II" text on the dial and are just hunting for the right Hinckley invitation to unveil this vintage gem.
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Gentleman Sailor: Testing the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph
IWC launched the Portugieser Yacht Club in 2010 into the sporty yet elegant world of sailing. For 2020, the nautical chronograph model has a classic look and a steel bracelet upgrade. We give it a thorough review in this feature from the WatchTime archives.
The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a watch you can wear with confidence anywhere at the marina. A first glance shows that the third generation of the sportiest Portugieser model, our test watch, is designed to be both a nautical timepiece and a luxury accessory. The first impression is confirmed upon closer inspection of its polished and satin-finish case, sunburst blue dial and brightly polished hands. Every component is flawlessly finished and worthy to be part of the supremely elegant Portugieser collection.
For the first time in its 10-plus-year history, this Portugieser Yacht Club boasts a steel bracelet rather than a rubber or leather strap — a sturdy but elegant IWC steel bracelet with brushed outer links and polished inner links. Shortening the bracelet involves simply pressing a button on the back of each row of sturdy links to remove it. Unlike simpler bracelet designs, using screws or hammering is not needed.
Inside the safety folding clasp, there is also a quick extension piece that quickly and easily lengthens the bracelet by up to 7 mm. Pressing the polished “IWC” button on the outer bar of the clasp extends the bracelet in seven increments — without ever removing the watch from your wrist. Two safety buttons round out the sturdy and well-designed folding clasp.
Detailed Modifications In addition to the bracelet, the dial has also been updated. The central chronograph hand is now steel-gray instead of red, and the date window has been shifted from the 3 o’clock position to the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Both changes enhance the elegance of the Yacht Club and were well received by our editorial staff.
The elegant impression is diminished, however, by the enlargement of the already considerable stainless-steel case from 43.5 mm to 44.6 mm. Our editorial staff admitted that no one among them had a wrist to match its substantial dimensions.
Even so, the large, heavy watch is quite comfortable to wear thanks to ergonomically shaped sloping lugs and a supple steel bracelet. Unfortunately, the flexibility and adjustability of the IWC’s bracelet results in relatively large gaps between the links, which can catch and pull hair.
Proven Technology Components taken from earlier generations of the Yacht Club include the sturdy and powerful in-house movement, Caliber 89361, with many excellent features like a 68-hour power reserve; a traditional column-wheel control mechanism; the brand’s own exceptionally efficient Pellaton dual-pawl winding system; a free-sprung, temperature-resistant Glucydur balance wheel; and a flyback function for the direct restarting of the running chronograph. It can also show off beautiful decorative finishes, gold-enhanced engraving and a gold IWC medallion on the skeletonized oscillating rotor. Another feature of the in-house movement is the combined 12-hour and 60-minute counter in the upper half of the dial, which is intended to show elapsed time intuitively, as on a clock. The combined counter is too small for everyday use, however, and its markings are too fine to read elapsed time to the minute quickly and easily. The chronograph seconds track around the dial is also extremely fine, and the central chronograph seconds hand is insufficiently long to fully reach it. In sum, it’s a mixed bag, with clearly legible time and date, and elapsed time that is much more difficult to read.
Accurate Rate Our rate test revealed more about the Swiss movement. The electronic timing machine showed a negligibly small daily rate of +0.8 seconds, a maximum deviation between the positions of only 4 seconds and almost the same values when the chronograph is engaged. A two-week wearing test confirmed the small daily deviation with values between zero and +2 seconds — making our test watch a reliable partner for everyday use.
In addition to the movement, another feature of the Yacht Club that hasn’t changed arouses mixed feelings — the pressure resistance of six bar that corresponds to water pressure at a depth of 60 meters. Although this may sound like a lot at first, the water resistance as it is tested under laboratory conditions is rather low for a nautical luxury sports watch linked to the world of sailing. Coming in contact with spray or waves means a watch should be resistant to at least 10 bar or 100 meters to ensure a certain degree of security in a variety of different environments. And even though this still isn’t a lot, it is the current standard for any water sports watch not explicitly designed for diving.
Advice for boat owners is simply this: it’s better to wear this watch in the evening, below deck, or to dinner at the marina, and either take it easy onboard during the day or rely on a sports watch that is clearly defined as such. The new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is well equipped for normal everyday wear and light sports activities — and is the perfect gentleman sailor for social events on or below deck.
SPECS: Manufacturer: IWC Schaffhausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8201 Schaffhausen, Switzerland Reference number: IW390701 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph with combined 60-minute and 12-hour counter, date Movement: In-house Caliber 89361, automatic, 28,800 vph, 38 jewels, hack mechanism, quick date adjustment, Incabloc shock absorber, column wheel, fine regulator with screw weights, Glucydur balance, 68-hour power reserve, diameter = 30 mm, height = 7.5 mm Case: Stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides, screw-down crown, threaded caseback with sapphire crystal viewing window, water resistant to 60 m Bracelet and clasp: Stainless-steel bracelet with safety folding clasp and quick extension Rate results (deviation in seconds per 24 hours, with chronograph switched off/on): Dial up 0 / +1 Dial down +3 / +2 Crown up -1 / -2 Crown down +2 / +2 Crown left +2 / +3 Crown right -1 / -3 Greatest deviation 4 / 6 Average deviation +0.8 / +0.5 Average amplitude: Flat positions 287° / 273° Hanging positions 257° / 236° Dimensions: Diameter = 44.6 mm, height = 14.3 mm, weight = 170 grams Variations: With silver dial (Ref. IW390702, $13,100); with stainless-steel and rose-gold case and bracelet (Ref. IW390703, $19,900) Price: $13,100
SCORES: Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): Very attractive, highly functional stainless-steel bracelet with safety folding clasp and quick extension. Large gaps between links. 9 Operation (5): Generously sized, smoothly operating pushers are easier to use than the screw-down crown. The large crown is easy to turn but needs some force to pull out. The chronograph has a flyback function for direct restart of an ongoing timing sequence. 4 Case (10): The case is beautifully finished but is rather simple and water resistant to only 60 meters. 8 Design (15): Attractive combination of sportiness and elegance. The superior quality of every component is easily apparent. 14 Legibility (5): The time and date are both easy to read, but elapsed time presents more difficulty. Bright luminous material. 4 Wearing comfort (10): The heavy watch lies comfortably on the wrist, but the metal bracelet catches fine wrist hair. 7 Movement (20): The in-house caliber stands out with its column wheel, Glucydur balance, fine regulation, extended power reserve, efficient dual-pawl winding mechanism and attractive decorations. 17 Rate results (10): The watch can boast absolute reliability with an average daily gain of 0.8 seconds and a maximum deviation between the positions of 4 seconds. Individual values are similar even when the chronograph is engaged. 9 Overall value (15): IWC has created a luxury chronograph at a high price, but it has a lot to offer. 11 Total: 83 POINTS
Thank you for the review
I, along with many people like a larger diameter watch. I have a wrist size that is 8 inches. Anything smaller than 42-43 mm looks small to me. I think this watch is a beauty.
Beautiful execution of details. Good to see that IWC decided to upgrade the Portugieser from quasigirly watch to man-sized. It’s hardly an Arni watch though.
I would buy this watch in a second (no pun intended) except for the high price. As for the increased diameter, I have a large wrist and do not buy watches less than 43 mm. Smaller diameters look terrible on me. If you need a large diameter watch reviewer, let me know. Thanks.
Two big problems for me. The size (too big), very few people have wrist size like Arni, water tightness 60m is a joke.
I really like this IWC watch, however, it’s shallow water resistance at the price, is a non-starter. IWC is certainly capable of increasing the water resistance range.
I always enjoy my Watchtime magazine when it arrives, and the email updates. Regarding IWC’s new Yacht Club, I think it is a beautiful watch. I have a large wrist, so, I will not wear a watch under 43mm. Smaller watches look too small. I do have trouble with the 60 meter water resistance, but find myself looking at this watch over and over in your magazine. That is when I know I want it. Hope to order one in the near future.
I’m veary interested in watches and would love to know more about them. I would like to see , the new modells.
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IWC YACHT CLUB II JUMBO – Ref. 3312 – MIXTE / SIGMA DIAL – 1980
What are the enchanting words that make vintage watch enthusiasts’ hearts race with excitement and passion?
The answer is obvious – “Nautilus”, “Royal Oak”, and “Ingenieur”…but for those who appreciate the not so obvious things in life, there are other captivating phrases that will send shivers down their spine. “Jumbo”, “integrated bracelet”, and “Genta” – just saying these words out loud is enough to make many people’s heart skip a beat. And when it comes to one of the ultimate dream watches, the IWC Yacht Club II – Reference 3312 is what sets the standard for many watch enthusiasts these days, if you are not looking to spend a fortune!
The 38mm version has become a favorite piece amongst collectors, with prices skyrocketing sixfold since 2020. And yet, it seems the demand for this iconic piece is only just beginning to heat up.
This 38 mm version is even more impressive with its matte black sigma dial , the solid gold bezel and bracelet links. It’s time to bring back the Mixte-Watches. The more we wear them, the more we like them.
There are many watch enthusiasts, that have already fallen in love (again) with these mixte versions. Yass, nothing beats the warmth of gold on a sunny day…
Stunning integrated bracelet (fits up to ca. 18,5cm), matte black sigma dial and a rich creamy aged lume. Perfect combo!
Although the case underwent a professional polishing in about 2012, the edges are still sharp and there are no unsightly big dents or scratches to mar its beauty.
This watch was bought in 2012 by its last owner but originates back to 1980/81.
IWC cal. 2250, serviced, new RENATA SWISS battery
The reference 3312 is the follow-up on reference 3012, which is the earlier YCII jumbo quartz. The index design changed with the references.
Price: 6490 EUR
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38 mm measured without crown
*You can find the warranty conditions under this LINK
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