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- Sailboat Reviews
Timeless Tartan 37
Performance, quality set this boat apart..
The Tartan 37 is a moderately high performance, shoal-draft cruiser built between 1967 and 1988 by Tartan Marine, a company that helped usher in the fiberglass era under Charlie Britton in the 1960s. At the time of the Tartan 37s introduction, the company had its headquarters in Grand River, Ohio, and a factory in Hamlet, N.C.
The company merged with troubled C&C in 1997 (and shed the brand in 2013), and like many builders, Tartan struggled financially after the dot-com bubble burst. In 2010, the company was pared down to just a handful of employees and was purchased by Steve Malbasa, who worked in the retirement investment field for 32 years. Malbasa has publicly expressed high aspirations for the Tartan, but it is unlikely to recapture the manufacturing success it had during the era of the Tartan 37. The Tartan 37 reviewed here is not to be confused with the Tim Jackett-designed 37-footers that followed.
Over the years, Tartan specialized in the production of well-finished boats geared toward the upper-income cruising sailor. Most of these early boats were Sparkman & Stephens (S&S) designs, and many were keel-centerboarders.
With their S&S designs and high-quality joinerwork, Tartans were regarded as a more affordable alternative to lines of boats such as the expensive Nautor Swans. By 1987, almost 500 Tartan 37s had been built, and the demand for the boat has continued to be strong. The longevity of the 37 in production is a remarkable testament to the inherent quality of both its design and its construction.
Until the early 1980s, most of the 37s were ordered with the original keel-centerboard configuration and only a few with a deep fin keel, often combined with a tall-rig favored by racers. In the 1980s, Tartan became a fan of the Scheel keel, a shoal-keel configuration designed by Henry Scheel that predated the era of winged keels. By enlarging the bottom of the keel with an end-plate, the Scheel keel helps to improve lift and to keep the weight of ballast low, in part at least overcoming two of the noted drawbacks of shoal keels. By 1985, the 37 was available with all three keel shapes. All of the designs offered good balance and favorable performance, but those wanting to eek out longer daily runs would gravitate toward the fin keel/tall-rig combination.
Tartan-built boats have been proven to have exceptionally good value over the years. On the used-boat market, they are among the most sought-after boats and have tended to maintain their owners equity. At the same time, new Tartans have never been cheap. Over the years the Tartan 37 was built, its base price almost doubled, reaching $100,000. Fully equipped, its price had risen to over $120,000 by 1987. Since then, prices on older boats have steadily declined, but today, even 30-year-old 37s are commanding over $50,000 as used boats.
Developed before builders strove to pack small apartments into the sterns of mid-sized cruisers, the Tartan 37 has attractive proportions. It has a gentle sheer and a straight raked stem profile, with moderate overhangs at both bow and stem. Underwater, the boat has a fairly long, low-aspect-ratio fin keel, and a high-aspect rudder faired into the hull with a substantial skeg. Freeboard is moderate. The boat is balanced and pleasant in appearance. It is not a character boat, but is attractive, fairly racy, and functional-a typical Sparkman & Stephens design of this era.
Construction
The Tartan 37 is a well-built boat for its time. Tartan made use of both unidirectional roving and balsa coring in stress areas. This yields a stiff, fairly light hull that is less likely to oil-can than the relatively thin solid layup used in many production boats. Some roving print-through-in which the fibers are visible through the gelcoat-is evident. There are also some visible hard spots on the outside of the hull.
Gelcoat quality is very good, but years of sun exposure and polishing might have taken their toll. Many of the older boats have been painted. The rudder is faired into the skeg with flaps to minimize turbulence. All through-hull fittings are recessed flush with the hull skin. For a cruising boat, remarkable attention was given to reducing skin friction and improving water flow.
Tartans construction was strong for the period, although as with any boat of this vintage, used 37s deserve close inspection. One area worth examining closely is the hull-to-deck joint, which is stiffened with an aluminum plate. This plate, which was glassed to the underside of the inward-flanged hull, was tapped to accept through bolts that bolted on the deck. The wide internal hull flange is bedded with butyl tape and polysulphide, the deck dropped on, and then bolted on with stainless-steel bolts which also hold on the teak toerail.
The aluminum plate (instead of multiple nuts and washers) expedited construction, but the combination of two dissimilar metals introduced the potential for galvanic corrosion, which could cause the bolts to strip out, or at the very least, loosen with pounding and flexing. Although this hull-deck joint is not known for failures, a prospective buyer should check it closely.
Weve noted that the toerail in many hulls is not well bedded. On the boat we tested, we were able to easily insert a thick knife blade under the toerail in several areas near the bow where the rail is subject to the most twist. Water will lie in this joint if it is at all open, making it difficult to keep varnish on the toerail.
Most deck hardware is backed with thick aluminum plates, which again raises the specter of galvanic corrosion. Closely check older boats for signs that water may have penetrated and caused the plates to swell or corrode. Pulpits are through-bolted with backing plates. The hull-to-deck joint is through-bolted across the transom, a good practice-uncommon for boats of this era, and even today. Interior construction finish is some of the best we have seen. Fillet bonding is exceptionally neat and clean. There are no raw fiberglass edges visible anywhere in the hull.
To keep the interior of the boat neat, the centerboard pennant comes up on deck through the center of the mast. This necessitates a complex mast step with transverse floors and a massive beam under the mast step to absorb compression, adding unnecessary complexity and making servicing the centerboard assembly more difficult and expensive than other, simpler arrangements.
Tartan uses bronze ball valves on through-hull fittings below the waterline. Exhaust line, cockpit scuppers, and bilge pump outlets are above the waterline, and have no shutoffs. The cockpit scuppers, which would be submerged while the boat is underway should have provision for shutoff.
Performance under sail
Owners report that the Tartan 37 is a well-mannered boat under sail. The boat will not perform at the grand-prix level, but it is no laggard, either. Several Tartan 37s have participated in the Marion/Newport-Bermuda race and regularly performed respectably. Although some early boats destined primarily for racers were purchased without roller furling headsails, nearly all the boats on the market today have furlers. Almost inevitably, there will be some sacrifice in windward performance with roller-furling headsails.
The optional inboard genoa track should be considered essential to those concerned with optimum windward performance. Coupled with the standard outboard track, this will allow versatility in sheeting angles. Headsail winches are within reach of the helmsman. This feature is vital for short-handed cruising and can help make the difference between a boat that is easy for two people to handle and one that is difficult. However, no real provision has been made for the installation of secondary headsail winches, should you wish to carry staysails. Small winches could be mounted on the cockpit coamings forward, but they could interfere with the installation of a dodger.
With good sails, the performance of the Tartan 37 will not be disappointing on any point of sail. Tartan brochures show the 37 happily romping along on a beam reach in a 15-knot breeze. We suspect that under those conditions, its owner is likely to be as happy as any sailor afloat.
Handling Under Power
The standard Universal 40 auxiliary diesel engine is more than adequate power for the Tartan 37. The tendency in many production boats today is toward smaller, lighter, lower-powered diesels, the opposite of the past American boatbuilding practice, which, like our automobiles, tended toward excessive horsepower.
The engine box of the Tartan 37 was only partially insulated, although many owners have since added their own insulation. You can easily access the front end of the engine by removing the companionway ladder.
With wide decks, inboard chainplates, and a relatively narrow cabin trunk, fore and aft movement on the deck of the Tartan 37 is relatively easy. It would be easier if the lifeline stanchions had been positioned further outboard, rather than about three inches inboard of the toerail. There are bow chocks; and two well-mounted cleats forward. However, a line led through the chocks to the cleats bears against the bow pulpit. Shifting the cleats further inboard would provide a better lead.
Unlike most contemporary boats, there is no foredeck anchor well. This means that in order for an anchor to be readily available, it must be stowed in chocks on deck, or on an owner-installed bow roller. Then, you must face the problem of feeding the anchor rode below, more difficult for nylon rode than for chain. Molded foredeck anchor wells are becoming almost universal in modern boats, and while they make sense for the casual sailor, having one less deck hatch has its advantages on an oceangoing boat that may be burying its bow for days on end. In other words, not having an anchor locker accessible from the deck is not such a drawback as it may at first seem-particularly if long-range cruising is part of the plan.
There are strong, well-mounted teak grabrails on top of the cabin trunk that offer a handhold almost the full length of the cabin top. The molded cockpit coaming is a common Sparkman & Stephens feature and greatly facilitates the mounting of a dodger, almost standard equipment on any cruising boat.
The T-shaped cockpit of the Tartan 37 is comfortable for five adults while sailing. It has several unusual features. Rather than the usual unyielding fiberglass, there are teak duckboards on all cockpit seats. This means that you wont sit in a puddle when it rains, or when heavy spray comes aboard. These duckboards are comfortable, but they are held in place only by wooden cleats, with the exception of the starboard seat. A more secure arrangement should be provided for offshore sailing.
There is a teak-grated cockpit sump under the helmsmans feet. This shifts the cockpit drains inboard from the edge of the cockpit. The result is that a puddle can collect in the leeward corner of the cockpit when the boat is heeling in a blow with heavy spray coming aboard.
Access to the steering gear is via the lazarette hatch. There is good provision for an emergency tiller, but the lazarette hatch must be held open in some way to use the emergency steering. There is a drop-in shelf in the lazarette which allows using the locker with less risk of damage to the steering system, but we would be reluctant to store anything small there that might possibly jam in the steering gear.
With a low cabin trunk, visibility from the helm is excellent. Racing helmsman who plan to spend prolonged spells actively steering may provide a contoured seat, but in this era of auto-helming, a flat bench is just as functional. The relatively wide, flat top of the cockpit coaming provides reasonably comfortable seating for the helmsman who prefers to sit well to leeward or well to windward.
The main companionway is narrow and almost parallel-sided, features we like, but the bridgedeck is much lower than we prefer for offshore sailing. This low sill facilitates passage of the crew below. Unfortunately, it also makes it easier for water to get below should the cockpit flood. Coupled with the thin plywood dropboards, we feel this is a potential weakness in watertight integrity, and something that should be addressed in a boat that is intended for offshore work. Several companies today specialize in producing bullet-proof companionway arrangements that can be customized to fit almost any boat.
Due to an abundance of teak and teak plywood, the interior of the Tartan 37 is dark and cave-like. This is much the same criticism we have made of other well-finished boats. Mind you, its a rather elegant cave, with excellent joinerwork throughout. Somehow, boat designers and builders have convinced most of the consuming public that teak is the only wood to use belowdecks. The fact is that there are many wonderful woods-ash and butternut, for example-that yield interiors that are lighter in both weight and color than teak.
The forward cabin of the Tartan 37 is truly comfortable for a boat of this size, with drawers, hanging lockers, separate access to the head, and enough room to dress in relative comfort. The completely louvered door separating the forward cabin from the main cabin looks nice, and does assist in ventilating the forward cabin. It limits privacy, however, and one good blow from a crew member caught off balance in a seaway would probably reduce it to a pile of teak kindling.
The head is quite comfortable, and it is possible to brace yourself adequately for use offshore. The shower drains into a separate sump, not into the bilge. The layout of the main cabin is conventional, with settee and pilot berth to starboard, dinette to port. The original design had a pilot berth to starboard necessitating a complex chainplate arrangement as well as a berth of dubious comfort and convenience.
By 1986, the pilot berth was eliminated in favor of shelves and gone, too, was the need for the can’tilevered chainplate support. While there is excellent storage space in the galley, one must reach across the stove to reach many of the cupboards, and its a long reach for a short person.
The stove is securely mounted and has a grab bar across its well to protect the cook, but this grab bar also inhibits the stoves gimballing function. There is no on-deck provision for storage for propane bottles, should you wish to use propane rather than the standard alcohol stove. There is room for CNG bottles to be stowed in the starboard cockpit locker, but CNG fill stations are few and far between in some areas.
The icebox appears to be well insulated on the sides, but why Tartan, like many other builders, failed to insulate and carefully fit the tops of their iceboxes totally escapes us. Although many contemporary builders have addressed this problem, we have found this shortcoming on a variety of boats, from the cheapest to the most expensive of this era.
The Tartan 37 has a large, well-designed navigation station. The quarterberth above it converts to a double berth. Ventilation is excellent, with eight opening ports and three hatches. There are also four vent/fans for the below-decks-two exhaust type and two low, plastic cowls in dorade boxes. We think four taller cowls in the dorades would be more effective, or better still, the five tall cowls shown in the original plans for the boat.
The vertical deckhouse bulkhead also allows a dropboard to be left out when it rains, further improving ventilation. Despite our complaints about the darkness of the interior, joinerwork is of excellent quality throughout. The finish work on the interior of the hull can complicate access to deck hardware, and certainly does not make it easy to survey the vessel.
In traditional wooden yacht construction, structural members are often left exposed for their intrinsic beauty, as well as for ventilation and preservation. In fiberglass boats, it is rather difficult to find intrinsic beauty in the structural material. Perhaps we are better off with it all hidden-as long as we know what holds the boat together. Given the Tartan 37s long reputation for solid construction, we certainly have confidence in what holds it together.
Conclusions
The Tartan 37, like other Tartan Marine boats of this era, is a well-built, well-mannered, fast cruising boat. The length of time it was in production and the number of 37s sold attests to the success of its concept; their value on the used boat market attests to the degree to which that concept has been realized. The boat is not immune to the problems that plague boats of this age. Prospective buyers should pay particularly close attention to the cored deck, which is prone to water damage and can be very expensive to repair.
Fortunately, the boat has attracted a wide following of enthusiasts who are willing to roll-up their sleeves and tackle these issues. The owners association provides detailed assistance in solving common problems, and the boats wide popularity there will likely always be a market for the 37, no matter how soft the sales of used boats become.
The 37 may never appreciate in the manner of some better finished (and more expensive) cruising boats such as Hinckleys that have practically become cult objects. Instead, the Tartan 37 is popular for justifiable reasons-performance, construction, and design. It is neither ostentatious nor plain. It is neither cheaply designed nor cheaply built.
Editors note: This review is an updated and expanded version of one previously published.
- Tartan 37 Owners ASSN.
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I HOPE THAT I RETAIN A LITTLE OF ALL THAT I AM STUDYING? .very interesting and the cabins intrigue me!
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- By Mark Schrader
- Updated: August 5, 2002
Anyone viewing the pleasingly modern lines of a Tartan 37 would find it hard to believe the first production model hit the market in 1976. Remarkably, Charlie Britton, along with a very talented Sparkman & Stephens design team, effectively incorporated many features important to offshore cruising and racing in a 37-foot hull. The only thing that hints at her age is the trademark plaid-upholstered interior.
Sailing performance and quality construction in an aesthetically pleasing package have been keys to Tartan’s success as a builder. The 37 has been the most popular choice for a variety of practical reasons.
The hull is hand-laid and molded as a single unit. It is cored with end-grain balsa, tapered to solid glass in any high-stress areas (engine bed, mast step, shroud terminals, thru-hulls and keel sections). The deck is of the same construction with excellent molded-in non-skid on all flat surfaces; it is joined to the hull with a bedded, mechanically fastened lap joint that has proven to be strong and dry.
The underbody features a skeg-hung rudder, cutaway forefoot and long fin keel (Tartan did offer the 37 with a deep fin of 6’7″ draft, a Scheel keel of 4’7″ draft, and a centerboard of 4’2″ up, 7’9″ down). Two rigs were offered — a standard rig giving bridge clearance of 52’0″ and a so-called “tall” rig at 53’8″ — supported by standard 1×19 stainless steel wire rigging. With sail area of 625 square feet driving a decidedly efficient hull, the Tartan 37 was capable of competitive racing as well as impressive, comfortable 24-hour runs. As with almost any S&S design, the rudder is efficient and the hull tracks well on all points of sail.
Performance sailing to weather is excellent and the cockpit remains fairly dry, but a good dodger mounted on the molded coaming that surrounds the cockpit and extends just aft of the mid-boom traveler is a must for added shelter. Offwind performance ranks up there with the best of them. Plenty of rudder contributes to great control in full-sail reaching or running situations.
The interior is traditional but larger than you would expect with 11’9″ of beam. It features lots of teak veneer and trim with teak-battened, white Formica overhead. An insert makes the V-berth an acceptable dockside double. The head forward with sink includes a shower spigot; the arrangement is tight but functional. The starboard, main-cabin settee works well as a sea berth, and the port settee converts to a double. The double quarterberth aft is a perk you don’t usually find in a boat this size. A great galley is to starboard and a nav station to port, just at the base of the companionway.
Most 37s are powered by the 32-hp Universal 40, although the Universal 50 was originally offered as an option. Even on the early models, the engine hours tend to be low — a testament to the boat’s sailing abilities. The standard 47-gallon fuel tank provides enough range for coastal or inshore motoring.
The Tartan 37 has held its value well. Early ones (1976-1981) list and sell in the low to mid $50,000 range; newer ones (1982-1988) in the $60,000 to $90,000 range. Price differences relate to condition, equipment or year manufactured. A $50,000 to $60,000 early Tartan 37 with little in the way of equipment (or with electronics still needing an upgrade) represents good value and may even appreciate slightly, depending on treatment given and additional gear added.
When considering buying an older boat, one axiom should be held sacred: Buy a good, capable boat, one that’s proven and reliable. The Tartan 37 is one vessel that more than fits the bill.
Tartan 37 Specifications: * LOA: 37’3″ (11.35 m.) * LWL: 29’5″ (8.97 m.) * Beam: 11’9″ (3.58 m.) * Draft (deep fin) 6’7″ (2.0 m.) * Draft (shoal Scheel) 4’7″ (1.4 m.) * Draft (c’bd up/dn) 4’2″/7’9″ (1.3/2.4 m.) * Ballast: 7,500 lbs. (3,402 kgs.) * Disp: 15,500 lbs. (7,031 kgs.) * Sail area: (100%) 625 sq.ft. (58.1 sq.m.) * Mast above water: 52’0″ (15.9 m.) * Ballast/Disp: .48 * Disp/Length: 272 * SA/Disp: 16.1 * Fuel: 47 gal. (178 ltr.) * Water: 90 gal. (340 ltr.) * Holding: 16 gal. (60 ltr.) * Auxiliary: 32-hp Universal 40 diesel * Designer: Sparkman & Stephens
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Tartan 37 (Hood)
Tartan 37 (Hood) is a 37 ′ 0 ″ / 11.3 m monohull sailboat designed by Ted Hood and built by Tartan Yachts starting in 1965.
- 1 / 41 Harrison Township, MI, US 2076 Tartan 37 (Hood) $20,000 USD View
- 2 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 3 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 4 / 41 United States 1979 Tartan 37 (Hood) $48,000 USD View
- 5 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 6 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 7 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 8 / 41 United States 1979 Tartan 37 (Hood) $48,000 USD View
- 9 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 10 / 41 United States 1979 Tartan 37 (Hood) $48,000 USD View
- 11 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 12 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 13 / 41 United States 1979 Tartan 37 (Hood) $48,000 USD View
- 14 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 15 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 16 / 41 United States 1979 Tartan 37 (Hood) $48,000 USD View
- 17 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 18 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 19 / 41 United States 1979 Tartan 37 (Hood) $48,000 USD View
- 20 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 21 / 41 United States 1979 Tartan 37 (Hood) $48,000 USD View
- 22 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 23 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 24 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 25 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 26 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 27 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 28 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 29 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 30 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 31 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 32 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 33 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 34 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 35 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 36 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 37 / 41 Amityville, NY, US 1980 Tartan 37 (Hood) $65,000 USD View
- 38 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 39 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 40 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
- 41 / 41 Deale, MD, US 1986 Tartan 37 (Hood) $49,000 USD View
Rig and Sails
Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.
The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.
Classic hull speed formula:
Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL
Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL
Sail Area / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.
SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3
- SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
- D : Displacement in pounds.
Ballast / Displacement Ratio
A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.
Ballast / Displacement * 100
Displacement / Length Ratio
A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.
D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
- LWL: Waterline length in feet
Comfort Ratio
This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.
Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )
- D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
- LOA: Length overall in feet
- Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet
Capsize Screening Formula
This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.
CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)
Nearly the same as the earlier BLACK WATCH 37, but with all glass coach roof instead of wood, for easier maintenance. Available also as a keel-centerboarder (Draft: BD:9.33’/2.84m BU: 3.83’/1.17m) Sloop or yawl. The HOOD 37, built by Little Harbor Yachts, is said to be based on the same design. Not to be confused with the S&S designed, TARTAN 37-2, introduced in 1976. See BLACK WATCH 37 for more details.
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Tartan 37 ss
The tartan 37 ss is a 37.29ft masthead sloop designed by sparkman & stephens and built in fiberglass by tartan marine between 1976 and 1989., 486 units have been built..
The Tartan 37 ss is a moderate weight sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is average. There is a short water supply range.
Tartan 37 ss for sale elsewhere on the web:
Main features
| Model | Tartan 37 ss | ||
| Length | 37.29 ft | ||
| Beam | 11.75 ft | ||
| Draft | 4.17 ft | ||
| Country | United states (North America) | ||
| Estimated price | $ 0 | ?? |
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| Sail area / displ. | 16.14 | ||
| Ballast / displ. | 48.39 % | ||
| Displ. / length | 298.92 | ||
| Comfort ratio | 28.91 | ||
| Capsize | 1.89 |
| Hull type | Monohull keel and centerboard with rudder on skeg | ||
| Construction | Fiberglass | ||
| Waterline length | 28.50 ft | ||
| Maximum draft | 7.75 ft | ||
| Displacement | 15500 lbs | ||
| Ballast | 7500 lbs | ||
| Hull speed | 7.15 knots |
We help you build your own hydraulic steering system - Lecomble & Schmitt
| Rigging | Masthead Sloop | ||
| Sail area (100%) | 625 sq.ft | ||
| Air draft | 0 ft | ?? | |
| Sail area fore | 376 sq.ft | ||
| Sail area main | 249 sq.ft | ||
| I | 47 ft | ||
| J | 16 ft | ||
| P | 41.50 ft | ||
| E | 12 ft |
| Nb engines | 1 | ||
| Total power | 41 HP | ||
| Fuel capacity | 50 gals |
Accommodations
| Water capacity | 90 gals | ||
| Headroom | 0 ft | ||
| Nb of cabins | 0 | ||
| Nb of berths | 0 | ||
| Nb heads | 0 |
Builder data
| Builder | Tartan Marine | ||
| Designer | Sparkman & Stephens | ||
| First built | 1976 | ||
| Last built | 1989 | ||
| Number built | 486 |
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Tartan 34c vs Tartan 37
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Hi all, I'm extremely new to this and trying to feel my way out into the world of living aboard a sailboat and eventually singlehanded cruising. I've been really drawn to the Tartans because of their lines, and I really like the stern shape. Trivial stuff in the long run, I know, and there are much more important things to consider when looking for a liveaboard sailboat and an ocean cruiser. But I'm drawn to them anyway. I've found a 1971 Tartan 34c that I really like, looks really clean and well cared for, priced at $17000. But I've also found a 1969 Tartan Hood 37 that I'm really drawn to just because of its size and because of its full keel, but it's a bit more expensive at $25000. I have absolutely no grounding on if these boats are fairly priced, or if I should absolutely look elsewhere, or if they're a good deal. I'm hoping I'll be able to move on board and save money eventually. I know that's usually not the case, but anything feels cheaper than living in the DC metro area. Also, I shouldn't say I'm extremely new; I have some limited sailing experience, and a great deal of what I would call an academic understanding of sailing and living onboard. But I have no practical experience, and thats where I defer to you fine people, in the hopes that you'll be able to give me some guidance. Also so I can maybe stop getting emails from Popyachts every time I open their website to look at the 34c.
Well, both are very pretty boats to look at for sure. I own a 1973 Tartan 34C. I bought it in November and am currently refitting it, so I can't tell you much about it's sailing ability, although I know from others it will not be a flat ride. It's a straightforward boat. Built very solidly. Not a ton of room for a 34 footer, but the huge cockpit attracted me, and the pretty lines most of all. I have owned many modern sailboats, and always wanted to try a classic, so here we are. Mine has a newish diesel Yanmar. Without it, I would not have purchased it. Nothing will kill your bank account faster than a wonky engine, and the Tartan 34c's all came with an Atomic 4 gas engine - which can be fine, but more often, not. A new engine is a $10,000 hit on a good day. It looks like you favor pretty boats. No doubt, people will tell you to ignore looks and just buy a Catalina 30 and be done with all this lust. Not that a Catalina 30 is ugly by any means. In fact, you SHOULD look at one. It will give you a great reference point from which to judge all other boats, because a C30 does so much so well. You really need to do yourself a favor and look at as many boats in person before you settle on the Tartan 34c, (or the Hood 37).
Ninefingers said: Well, both are very pretty boats to look at for sure. I own a 1973 Tartan 34C. I bought it in November and am currently refitting it, so I can't tell you much about it's sailing ability, although I know from others it will not be a flat ride. It's a straightforward boat. Built very solidly. Not a ton of room for a 34 footer, but the huge cockpit attracted me, and the pretty lines most of all. I have owned many modern sailboats, and always wanted to try a classic, so here we are. Mine has a newish diesel Yanmar. Without it, I would not have purchased it. Nothing will kill your bank account faster than a wonky engine, and the Tartan 34c's all came with an Atomic 4 gas engine - which can be fine, but more often, not. A new engine is a $10,000 hit on a good day. It looks like you favor pretty boats. No doubt, people will tell you to ignore looks and just buy a Catalina 30 and be done with all this lust. Not that a Catalina 30 is ugly by any means. In fact, you SHOULD look at one. It will give you a great reference point from which to judge all other boats, because a C30 does so much so well. You really need to do yourself a favor and look at as many boats in person before you settle on the Tartan 34c, (or the Hood 37). Click to expand...
Starting with the basics, both of those boats are CCA racing rule beaters. The CCA race rule forced a lot of compromises to the hull form and rig. Those rule beating measures, adversely impact seaworthiness, motion comfort, ease of handling, carrying capacity, accommodations for their length and performance. So while a lot of people are attracted to their looks, they tend to be a pretty crummy choice as a cruising boat or live aboard. I will further note that neither of these boats, and frankly almost none of the CCA era boats have full keels. Instead they had keels that were sharply cut away at the forward end, and which had raked rudder posts at the aft end, which when combined with the extremely short waterline resulted in a similar keel area area to a fin keel of that era. Most had the rudder attached to the keels, placing the rudder at greater risk of damage in a grounding (due to the same depth as the keel), and much harder to steer and maneuver. The combination of what was effectively a fin keel, with an attached rudder, made for a boat that does not track well, and is hard to balance. From a yacht design standpoint, these mid-length keels with attached rudders were the worst of all worlds, having almost none of the virtues of a either a full keel or fin keel, but with pretty much all of the liabilities of both. As liveaboard boats these CCA designs have all of the slip rental costs and maintenance costs of a 34-37 footer, with the interior space, storage and sailing ability of a more modern 28 footer. I will note that in any period and from any particular builder there were better and worse designs. In the CCA era the Tartan 34 was one of the better designs in that era. Other superior designs from that era and in your price range, might include the Bristol 33 & 34, Galaxy 32, Medalist 32-II, Cal 36 and Tartan 30(almost the same interior as the Tartan 34 but a better sailing boat, that would be cheaper to own). Unless you are solely looking for a boat to live on, and sailing ability and operating costs are irrelevant, I suggest that you look at boats from later periods with shorter overhangs, and a bit more beam. FWIW, the smaller Bayfields are pretty crummy boats on almost all counts (other than as a dedicated liveaboard that never leaves its slip.) Respectfully, Jeff
Jeff_H said: Starting with the basics, both of those boats are CCA racing rule beaters. The CCA race rule forced a lot of compromises to the hull form and rig. Those rule beating measures, adversely impact seaworthiness, motion comfort, ease of handling, carrying capacity, accommodations for their length and performance. So while a lot of people are attracted to their looks, they tend to be a pretty crummy choice as a cruising boat or live aboard. I will further note that neither of these boats, and frankly almost none of the CCA era boats have full keels. Instead they had keels that were sharply cut away at the forward end, and which had raked rudder posts at the aft end, which when combined with the extremely short waterline resulted in a similar keel area area to a fin keel of that era. Most had the rudder attached to the keels, placing the rudder at greater risk of damage in a grounding (due to the same depth as the keel), and much harder to steer and maneuver. The combination of what was effectively a fin keel, with an attached rudder, made for a boat that does not track well, and is hard to balance. From a yacht design standpoint, these mid-length keels with attached rudders were the worst of all worlds, having almost none of the virtues of a either a full keel or fin keel, but with pretty much all of the liabilities of both. As liveaboard boats these CCA designs have all of the slip rental costs and maintenance costs of a 34-37 footer, with the interior space, storage and sailing ability of a more modern 28 footer. I will note that in any period and from any particular builder there were better and worse designs. In the CCA era the Tartan 34 was one of the better designs in that era. Other superior designs from that era and in your price range, might include the Bristol 33 & 34, Galaxy 32, Medalist 32-II, Cal 36 and Tartan 30(almost the same interior as the Tartan 34 but a better sailing boat, that would be cheaper to own). Unless you are solely looking for a boat to live on, and sailing ability and operating costs are irrelevant, I suggest that you look at boats from later periods with shorter overhangs, and a bit more beam. FWIW, the smaller Bayfields are pretty crummy boats on almost all counts (other than as a dedicated liveaboard that never leaves its slip.) Respectfully, Jeff Click to expand...
As a rule of thumb adding 4 feet to the length of a boat in this size range doubles the volume. The 37 would be a lot more boat. I lived on a Cal 40 (actually 39 feet long) for a year or so and it was comfortable. (Size-wise, anyway. The lack of heat, refrigeration, pressure water and other issues were less comfortable, but I was younger then.) I've known many people living in 34 feet or less. They tend to be organized, frugal and not collect stuff. Good liveaboard boats aren't necessarily fun to sail. It's also a real pain to have to clean up the loose stuff from a few months of living before you can leave the dock in a good breeze. Balance your desire to live on the boat against enjoying sailing it. Although the cost of owning a boat can be astonishing, so is the amount of stuff you don't buy when you live on one. Make sure you know where you will keep it, the price and the policy on live-aboards. Good luck. Sounds like fun.
Take all advice with a grain of salt, except this: don't "click" on Popyachts. It seems like a majority of the time they really don't have a "listing" on that boat. They want you to make an offer and send them a deposit. Now they have "PopRV's" as well. Eh. I went to look at a boat with a friend last Saturday. He's smitten by a 30' 1966 Pearson Wanderer. I bit my tongue the whole time I was there. I DID try to point him toward a Pearson 10M, but didn't want to further confuse or discourage him. The wanderer was fine for what it is. Fancied out by a woodworking prior owner. Gorgeous work inside and out. But I made him tell me he'd be moving up within a year or two. With a newer Yanmar in it and spotless in and out, I gave up and said "it's up to you." I explained weather helm and how the boat would likely respond with that big wooden rudder. We'll see what he does, but the goal is to get on the water, get some practical experience and learn. And move on. There are people sailing the Caribbean and the world on boats that people repeatedly disparage. And boats I wouldn't sail from St. Thomas to St. Croix. I've seen too many tigers fishing the South Drop. I've got a Tartan 37. I'm fine with it, no matter who doesn't care for the CCA era boats. My prior boats were Bristol 35 Yawl (great times on that bird), but when she turned downwind it was like dragging a paddle in a canoe. They make up their waterline on heel. Good learner over 30 years ago. Sold it for WAY more than I thought it was worth, but I do good work. Then a Pearson 10M (for $2500 and a refit) and I figured out I want to go fast and set the sails and balance the boat. Incredible trim on that thing. Tiller steered. Now it's the Tartan 37 for cruising, putting WAY too much into it. Point is, though, all these boats were cash purchased with low prices and I refitted them. Learning every system along the way, including the individual diesels and their peccadilloes. And we raced on frac rig Jeanneaus, J's, Beneteaus and others. Your boat is YOUR boat. Make the right choice for you. Grain of salt. And for your first boat I'd recommend NOT going with something that needs complete refit in any event. Get a solid boat, get on the water. Mistakes are educational. They all have their followings, including the Bayfields and even the lowly Macgregor.
VIEXILE said: I've got a Tartan 37. I'm fine with it, no matter who doesn't care for the CCA era boats. Click to expand...
Well, yes I do. 1976 to 1986. Commentary on what I currently have only. Here's the Blackwatch, big underbody. https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/black-watch-37 . And here's the T34C: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/tartan-34-c; then of course there is the T37 S&S: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/tartan-37-ss There are similarities between the 34 and the S&S 37 in draft, underbody and shape, but the venerable old Blackwatch with her long overhangs was like the Bristol 35 downwind - dragging a paddle in a canoe. But it's all about just being on the water. My point was we had a CCA era boat for 15 years. Brought it from Maine to the BVI, where some guy went by us one day off Sea Cow Bay and said "I'm going to own that boat." Loved it, but had the 10M at the same time and cruising wasn't in the cards. Just racing. And he offered me too much. One of the winningest boats down there over the years was something. . .something " . . . flower." An Alberg 35: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/alberg-35 Ridiculously high PHRF. And the family from St. Croix loved it. But he traded up for a J-36. There's an obvious progression there and, as I believe I said, I bite my tongue and recommend just getting on the water . . . safely. Things happen slower on some of these old boats as well, which can be a good thing. Nothing wrong with the old boats for living aboard, cruising around and getting used to everything. Provided systems and gear are good.
AB, If you want to make the move from land to boat in the DC metro area, you're looking at finding a liveaboard marina (or one that tolerates them) between Baltimore and Herring Bay (unless you had the foresight to get yourself added to the Gangplank Marina waitlist five or six years ago). So your sailing waters are likely the Chesapeake for a while, until you expand your plans. If I was doing this - and I know many people who have done this - my priorities would be (a) easy to sail and dock singlehandedly on the bay, (b) has AC and heat or can be outfitted with it easily, and (c) lots of living space below relative to waterline to keep marina bills from stacking up fast. Preferences for keel design would be way, way down on my list, as would be aesthetics (a smart person once told me 'you don't care what your boat looks like when you're sailing her, there's typically no one to see and you're having too good a time anyway'). I'd start with a list of practical criteria for the actual living and sailing you are doing the next few years and worry about those 'long range' plans later. If you buy a good used boat and maintain her you can always sell her for what you paid when you upgrade to bigger plans. Good luck with your search!
I lived aboard my T37 for 4 years and sailed it a lot. It works but honestly there are probably better choices. I still sail a lot, just not a liveaboard for now
Shawn, This is not the S&S designed Tartan 37 that you own but a much earlier Hood designed CCA era design based on the Black Watch 37. It would be a really poor choice for a new sailor, a really poor choice as a live aboard, and a really poor choice for distance cruising compared to your boat. Jeff
Whoops lol
Some people love the Blackwatch. Tartan put the boats together quite well, nice joinery compared to the older Bristols and Pearsons. At 17,000# it is almost 2 long tons heavier in displacement than the T37CB. It looks suspiciously like a Bristol 40, also a Hood design which I've seen almost everywhere the last one sitting pretty in Coral Bay St. John. That guy had been everywhere with his. Love 'em or hate 'em they will do the job. Not everyone can throw $80K and up for a boat that has the room they desire. It's kinda like the Bermuda 40 - big following, fans, etc. but everyone isn't racing or needs to make time on cruise. Sacrifices are often made at the right price point. That's all.
In terms of hull cross sections, the Black Watch/Black Watch and Bristol 40 are similar, but they sail very differently and have very different 'numbers'. The Black Watch has a much smaller ballast to weight, much shorter waterline to length ratio, much higher Displacement to Length ratio, A much smaller sail area to displacement ratio as compared to the Bristol 40 or the S&S Designed Tartan 37. Collectively that makes the Black Watch less seaworthy, with a poorer motion comfort, and a harder boat to sail and a harder boat to learn to sail as a beginner. Beyond that sailing ability, the Tartan 37's / Black Watch are 50-60 year old boats and Douglass-McLeod did not do all that great a job on build quality. But to clear, my posts are not advocating buying a more expensive boat. The intent is to encourage the original poster to buy a boat that better suits his needs within his budget and to discourage buying an obsolete design that will need a lot of work, not suit his needs and will be very hard to sell. Jeff
Makes sense. But I can't talk my friend out of buying a Pearson Wanderer and instead grab the 10M I found, the latter from which he'd learn a lot more a lot faster. And actually be able to stand behind the helm. But the Wanderer makes his heart go pitty-pat due to all the brightwork added by the previous owner. Still working on him, though, until he puts down a deposit.
I've got 10M Hull #65....and I've been looking at every single one that pops onto the market; it's an obsession I guess, just like learning about all different types of sloops and cutters. Take care, though, for there are a few really nice looking 10M's out there that look like they have the original chain plate design with knees. I'm sure you're familiar with what the retrofit should look like, and I'll post a couple of photos if anyone wants to see how much of a robust design it is with the change. But, then again, those few 10M's with original chainplate configuration have been out sailing for almost 50 years with no issues, guess so long as they're not pushed too hard racing. I have the aluminum mast step that's one of the options presented on Dan Pfeiffer's 10M page; it's over 8 years old, and perhaps should be replaced in a few years, but so far it looks almost new still....btw, a 10M is an absolute perfect boat for single handing, and amazing at how fast she is given her medium-heavy displacement
I had a 1973 10M we raised from the ashes. Maybe hull #11? New bulkheads, the whole bit. Reinforced the glass around the chainplates and sailed it HARD in the Caribbean. Looked at adding aluminum boxes for the plates, but said the hell with it. Beat the hell out of it. I could balance that boat like nothing else, singlehand racing in 30kn. Lock the Switlik tiller extension (no wheel - PERFECT), run forward and deal with hank on headsails. Last time I was racing out of Coral Bay and the first hank on the old 150 I had up blew out. Balance, lock tiller, run forward, ease the halyard, tie it down from the 2nd hank, tighten the halyard on the run back to the cockpit, rinse and repeat for 6 or 7 hanks. It was a sacrificial sail anyway. Singlehanding in a steady 30. No reefs in main. Passed other boats while I was bouncing like a monkey on a string going back and forth to the foredeck. Won the race. Next day, after that blow, there were big swells out of the SE for the ride back to St. Thomas. We clicked 10kn on the gps surfing down the backside. Quick trip home. Just have to remember to turn slightly off those troughs. Yeah. My buddy should take a run at the 10M here in Maine on Craigslist. NOT the Wanderer. The thing with the 10M's is water intrusion in the deck at the stanchions. They're not well-attached or backed and years of yanking causes problems.
By the way - there's a T34C I'm going to go look at for someone here in Maine. Been on the hard for years, way too many things purchased for refit, low hours Yanmar, "make an offer."
Can't say enough good things about my 34C - sturdy, simple, good lines, even one that was in complete disrepair was able to be brought back to fine condition with a little love and money!
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COMMENTS
The TARTAN 37 became one of the builders best selling models. Derived from the TARTAN 38, more of a racer with a deep keel and tall rig. Most boats were delivered with the keel/cb and standard rig as shown here. A tall rig and fixed keel were also available. Draft for fixed keel: 6.58'/2.0m. Another boat based on the same design was built in ...
1. The Tartan 37 is a moderately high performance, shoal-draft cruiser built between 1967 and 1988 by Tartan Marine, a company that helped usher in the fiberglass era under Charlie Britton in the 1960s. At the time of the Tartan 37s introduction, the company had its headquarters in Grand River, Ohio, and a factory in Hamlet, N.C.
The Tartan 37 has a reputation for being stable with acceptable upwind performance, but really excels downwind on a reach. The rudder is efficient and provides plenty of control and the boat is relatively dry, especially when configured with a decent dodger. The boat is known to be easy to single hand and fun to sail.
In the fall of 1960, Charlie Britton commissioned the renowned yacht design firm, Sparkman and Stephens to design the very first Tartan, the 27. The master Tartan 27 patterns and molds were produced during the fall and winter of 1960/61 and hull number one was completed and launched in the spring of 1961. Tartan Marine was Founded by Charles Britton who bought out what was left of Douglass ...
The standard 47-gallon fuel tank provides enough range for coastal or inshore motoring. The Tartan 37 has held its value well. Early ones (1976-1981) list and sell in the low to mid $50,000 range; newer ones (1982-1988) in the $60,000 to $90,000 range. Price differences relate to condition, equipment or year manufactured.
The Tartan 37, sailing in its amicable way: agile, dry, and reliable. Charlie Briton may have launched the company but it was designer Tim Jackett who put his undeniable mark on it, turning out numerous sought-after models. One of the most popular designs was a 37-footer that started life as the Sparkman and Stephens-designed T37 which debuted ...
The design of the 37 is now 22 years old and was conceived as a compromise between performance, comfort and shoal draft. With a displacement of 15,500 and a displacement/length ratio of 298, the boat is moderately heavy by modern standards. By comparison, a late model Sabre 402 has a disp./length ratio of 210 and the Valiant 39 has a ratio of 250.
Tartan 37 (Hood) is a 37 ′ 0 ″ / 11.3 ... Source: sailboatdata.com / CC BY. Embed Embed. View Demo. Embed this page on your own website by copying and pasting this code. For Sale View More . Harrison Township, MI, US 2076 tartan t37 $20,000 USD ...
Find Tartan 37 boats for sale in your area & across the world on YachtWorld. Offering the best selection of Tartan boats to choose from.
The Tartan 37 hood is a 37.0ft masthead yawl designed by Ted Hood and built in fiberglass by Tartan Marine since 1965. The Tartan 37 hood is a heavy sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is not stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a bluewater cruising boat. There is a short water supply range.
Nearly the same as the earlier BLACK WATCH 37, but with all glass coach roof instead of wood, for easier maintenance. Sloop or yawl. The HOOD 37, built by Little Harbor Yachts, is said to be based on the same design. Not to be confused with the S&S designed, TARTAN 37-2, introduced in 1976. See BLACK WATCH 37 for more details.
The Tartan 37 ss is a 37.29ft masthead sloop designed by Sparkman & Stephens and built in fiberglass by Tartan Marine between 1976 and 1989. ... The data on this page has been derived from different sources but a significant part is attributed to sailboatdata.com. We thank them for their encouragements and friendly collaboration.
But, on the other hand, the ballast/displacement ratio of the Tartan 37 is 48% compared to an average 38%, and the sail area/displacement ratio is 16.1 compared to an average 16.7. By any standard of performance comparisons for a boat of this class, the Tartan 37 is anything but disappointing. She is quite stable, with windward and downwind ...
The Bluewater Sailboat Tartan 37 is considered a classic cruising yacht today. The yacht was introduced in 1976, and designed by Sparkman and Stephens with a lot of direct input from Tartan Yachts. Originally designed as a boat that could be sold as both a racer and a cruiser, it was the shoal draught centerboard cruiser that truly took off ...
But I've also found a 1969 Tartan Hood 37 that I'm really drawn to just because of its size and because of its full keel, but it's a bit more expensive at $25000. I have absolutely no grounding on if these boats are fairly priced, or if I should absolutely look elsewhere, or if they're a good deal. ... And here's the T34C: https://sailboatdata ...
37' Tartan 37 1979 Miami, Florida Asking $19,500. 25.5' Contessa 26 Marlboro, New York Asking $9,900. 38' Morgan Yachts USA Morgan 38 Belmar Marina, New Jersey Asking $7,500. 30' Nonsuch Nonsuch 30 Ultra shoaldraft Kingston NY, New York Asking $45,000. 32' Sabre 197 Princeton Ave Brick, New Jersey
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The 1984 Tartan 37 cb is a bit smaller that I am looking for but I like the 4'2" draft with the board up. An adjustable board has some advantages to racing it would seem, down to weather and up while downwind, etc. I am surprised however at its dismal phrf rating of 177. The Tartan 37-2 version rates at 129 and the Scheel keel version rates at 126.
This first known tartan for a Russian family was designed by the writer for the Russian descendants of George Lermont (a 'Scotch Knight') of Fife who emigrated to Russia in 1613 to serve as a military instructor to Tsar Mikhail Romanov. The most famous Lermontov was Mikhail (b1814) - a much revered poet and 'dissident' who was killed ...
Nauticat 37. Sailboat specifications. Last update: 2nd April 2020; Nauticat 37's main features. Nauticat 37's main dimensions, nauticat 37's rig and sails, nauticat 37's performan
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LENGTH: Traditionally, LOA (length over all) equaled hull length. Today, many builders use LOA to include rail overhangs, bowsprits, etc. and LOD (length on deck) for hull length.
LENGTH: Traditionally, LOA (length over all) equaled hull length. Today, many builders use LOA to include rail overhangs, bowsprits, etc. and LOD (length on deck) for hull length. That said, LOA may still mean LOD if the builder is being honest and using accepted industry standards developed by groups like the ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council).