royal yacht britannia afternoon tea

Royal Yacht Britannia – tickets, prices, discounts, afternoon tea, what to see

Royal Yacht Britannia used to be Queen Elizabeth’s Palace on Water and is now Scotland’s most popular tourist attraction. 

Known by many names such as Her Majesty’s Yacht Britannia, Queen Elizabeth’s Yacht ,  HMY Britannia, etc., this Yacht was in the Queen’s service for 44 years and sailed more than a million miles worldwide. 

It is a perfect opportunity to see how the British Queen lived when traveling with other Kings and Queens, World leaders, and celebrities. 

This article shares everything you must know before booking your tickets for the Royal Yacht Britannia tour.

Top Royal Yacht Britannia Tickets

# Royal Yacht Britannia tickets # Royal Edinburgh ticket

Table of contents

What to expect at yacht britannia.

Here is a quick video on what visitors can expect inside Her Majesty’s Yacht Britannia.

Your Royal Britannia tour starts from the Visitor Centre, on the second floor of Ocean Terminal, where you get the historical background about the Royal Family and Yachtsmen.

You then pick up the audio guide, which is part of the entry ticket, and board Queen Elizabeth’s Yacht and explore five fascinating decks.

Highlights on the Yacht’s Royal side are the Sun Lounge, the State Dining Room, and The Queen’s Bedroom.

On the ship’s operational side, you get to see the Crew’s Quarters, the Engine Room, the laundry, etc.

More than 95% of the exhibits you will see during your tour are original and are taken on loan from The Royal Collection.

If you prefer, you can also visit the Royal Deck Tea Room.

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Royal Yacht Britannia tickets

This entry ticket gets you complete access to the Royal ship that’s now berthed in Edinburgh’s historic Port of Leith.

Visitors can explore all five decks at a leisurely pace even as they take in the public and private lives of the British Royal Family.

This ticket also includes the complimentary audio guide. 

Royal Yacht Britannia prices

Adult ticket (18+ years): 18.50 pounds Child ticket (5 to 17 years): 9.25 Pounds  Family ticket (2 adults and up to 3 children): 50 Pounds Infant ticket (under 5 years): Free entry

Royal Edinburgh ticket

This combo is known as the 48-hour Royal Edinburgh Ticket and is a real money saver. 

If you are visiting Edinburgh for the first time, we highly recommend this Royal attractions combo. 

This ticket gets you to access three of the best attractions in the city:

• Royal Yacht Britannia
• Edinburgh Castle
• Palace of Holyroodhouse

And to top it all, you also get unlimited travel for 48 hours on three of Edinburgh’s hop-on-hop-off bus tours. 

Where is the Royal Yacht Britannia

Address:  Ocean Terminal, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6JJ, United Kingdom. Get Directions

The Royal Yacht Britannia is berthed in Leith, Edinburgh, just 2 miles from the City Centre.

Britannia’s Visitor Centre is on the second floor of Ocean Terminal, just 15 minutes’ drive from Edinburgh City Centre.

Ocean Terminal is soon going to be  re-branded  as Porta. 

There are many ways to get to the Royal Yacht. 

If you are coming by train, you must get down at  Edinburgh Waverley .

From outside the station, you can take a taxi to cover the 3.7 kms (2.3 miles) to Ocean Terminal. 

From the Waverly station, you can also take bus No. 22 and 34.

You must board the buses at  Princess Street (Stop PN) , and after 24 minutes and 27 stops, get down at  Ocean Terminal (Stop OF) .

There is a bus from the Station, every 15 minutes.

Lothian Bus services  run three buses – Bus No. 11, 22, and 35 – from Edinburgh City Centre to Ocean Terminal. 

You can purchase tickets on the bus by presenting the correct change or from the  Lothian Buses app .

A single journey on a Lothian Bus costs 1.70 Pounds. 

If you use Satnav, use the postcode EH6 6JJ. 

Else, open Google Maps to get  directions to Ocean Terminal .

If you prefer a taxi, we recommend  Uber ,  Central Taxis , or  City Cabs .

Car Parking

Royal Yacht Britannia offers free parking at Ocean Terminal.

Blue Car Park on Level E is closest to the tourist attraction’s Visitor Centre. 

This part of the Park also has spaces for Blue Badge holders. 

Royal Yacht Britannia entrance

If you reach by foot, taxi, or bus, access to Royal Britannia is from the Ocean Terminal Shopping Center’s main entrance on the ground floor. 

You must take a lift to the 2nd floor of Ocean Terminal and walk towards the building’s East end.

You will first spot Debenhams and then HMY Britannia’s Visitor Center entrance.  Even though you can book tickets at the venue (the ticket desk is to the left of the visitor center entrance), it is better to  buy them online , much in advance, to avoid last-minute disappointment. 

Royal Yacht Britannia opening times

During the peak months of April to October, Royal Yacht Britannia opens at 9.30 am, and the last entry is at 4.30 pm. 

The rest of the year, the Royal Yacht opens at 10 am, and the last entry is allowed till 3.30 pm. 

The last admission on 24 December is at 2.30 pm, and on 31 December it is at 3 pm. 

Royal Yacht Britannia is closed on 25 December and 1 January.

Royal Yacht Britannia tour

The Royal Yacht Britannia   tours are a perfect way to feel like a celebrity for a few hours. 

In this section, we share a few things you must know before you book your tour of the Royal ship. 

Are the Britannia tours timed?

No, tours of HMY Britannia don’t start at a stipulated time. 

When you book your tickets, you only select the ‘date.’ 

On the day of your visit, reach the Royal ship between their opening hours to start exploring.

Are the Royal Britannia tours guided?

Her Majesty’s Yacht doesn’t offer guided tours. 

However, every ticket comes with an audio guide to walk around and tour the ship yourself.

Kids get their own version of the audio guide. 

How long does a tour of Britannia Yacht take?

You need at least two hours to explore Royal Yacht Britannia to satisfaction. 

However, if you plan to visit the Royal Deck Tea Room, you must factor in another 30 to 60 minutes. 

Visits during July and August tend to take longer because of the crowd. 

Royal Britannia discounts

Kids up to four years get the maximum discounts at Britannia, Edinburgh – they get in for free. 

On the adult ticket price of 17 Pounds, children aged 5 to 17 years get almost 50% discount and pay only 8.75 Pounds.

Seniors who are 60+ and students with valid educational ID cards get a 2 Pound reduction on the full ticket.

People in the Armed Forces (with valid ID) can also claim the reduced price of 8.75 Pounds. 

However, this Armed Forces discount is available only at the Britannia ticket office.

Royal Yacht Britannia audio guide

Every Britannia Yacht entry ticket comes with a complimentary audio guide.

While receiving the audio guides at the Handset Desk, you can ask for straps to wear the audio guides around the neck. Headphones are also available.

Kids can opt for the children’s version of the audio guide.

The audio tour is available in 30 languages; English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, Swedish, Danish, Norwegian, Dutch, Finnish, Greek, Russian, Czech, Polish, Hungarian, Korean, Japanese, Urdu, Mandarin, Hindi, Arabic, Thai, Turkish, Cantonese, Punjabi, Portuguese-Brazilian, Welsh, Romanian and Gaelic. 

Besides the audio guide, visitor guides are also available through the tour route to help if you have questions.

Royal Yacht Britannia afternoon tea

The Royal Deck Tea Room is on board Britannia and tables are allocated on a first-come, first-served basis.

It is a perfect restaurant to enjoy freshly prepared food and stunning views of the harbor. 

The menu includes specialty coffees, cocktails, tasty soups, sandwiches, cakes, scones, etc.  Download Menu

The Royal Deck Tea Room has 35 tables and can seat 133 people.

Royal Deck tea room timings

During the peak months of April to October, the Royal Deck Team Room opens at 11 am, and the last admission is at 3.30 pm. 

January to March: Opens at 11 am, last admission at 3.30 pm

November to December: Opens at 10.30 pm, last admission at 3.45 pm

Royal Yacht Britannia interiors

Many tourists wonder what’s inside the Royal Yacht before they book their tickets. 

Some out of curiosity and some to know if a visit to Royal Yacht Britannia is worth it. 

We list below some of the highlights of this Palace on water. 

State Apartments

The State Apartments are the collection of rooms where the Royals lived or entertained their guests. 

1. The State Drawing Room

The Royal family relaxed in the State Drawing Room whenever they traveled together. 

It also acted as a reception room for up to 250 guests. 

2. The Verandah Deck

The Verandah Deck was a private space for the Royals, where they could sunbathe or enjoy quoits or deck hockey. 

This area of the ship also had a collapsible swimming pool for the Royal Family to splash around if they wanted.

3. The Sun Lounge

The Sun Lounge was one of the Queen’s favorite rooms onboard HMY Brittania. 

The beautiful teak-lined room was a designated family room and offered a lot of privacy from the rest of the ship.

4. The State Dining Room

This massive dining room onboard Britannia has played host to the world’s most influential people, such as Nelson Mandela, Sir Winston Churchill, Ronald Reagan, Margaret Thatcher, etc. 

With its white paneled walls adorned with gifts received during State visits, this room represents ultimate luxury. 

The Engine Room

The Engine Room is a testament to British marine engineering skills because, until the ship got decommissioned in 1997, everything was working fine. 

This room is full of gleaming brass, chrome, and white enamel with the ‘heavy stuff’ under the hood pumping 12,000 horsepower, which would help Britannia and her four-bladed propellers to a maximum of 22.5 knots.  

Eight men operated the Engine Room, Boiler Room, and associated machinery rooms.

The Laundry

The 240 Officers and Yachtsmen on board Her Majesty’s Yacht Britannia sometimes had to change their uniforms up to six times a day. 

This is why it was the only ship in the Royal Navy to have a laundry service permanently on board. 

The laundry machines, dryers, and steam presses on the ship worked non-stop, and sometimes the temperature even went up to 48 degrees Celcius (118 degrees Fahrenheit)

Admiral’s Cabin

The Admiral was responsible for Royal Yacht Britannia’s safe functioning and commanded the 19 officers and 220 Yachtsmen who operated the ship.

He worked, entertained, and often ate (he couldn’t join the other officers in their mess unless invited) in the Admiral’s Cabin. Image: Royalyachtbritannia.co.uk  

The Bridge was HMY Britannia’s center of command and control on all her journeys. 

From here, the officers reporting into the Admiral navigated, passed orders, recorded the logbooks, etc.

Back then, all Royal Navy ships had a Navy, Army, and Air Force Institute shop, known as the NAAFI. 

The crew members and the officers would shop for their daily needs, such as toothpaste, shaving creams, magazines, etc. in this shop. 

Sources # Royalyachtbritannia.co.uk # Architecturaldigest.com # Wikipedia.org # Tripadvisor.com The travel specialists at TheBetterVacation.com use only high-quality sources while researching & writing their articles. We make every attempt to keep our content current, reliable and trustworthy .

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He is a two-faced traveler, who enjoys both the hustle-bustle of an urban holiday and the serenity of a break from the rest of the World. During some of his vacations, he is a resort hopper, and on others, he barely spends time in his hotel. He loves to try mouth-watering local cuisines, especially non-vegetarian dishes. Favourite Cities: Amsterdam, Las Vegas, Dublin, Prague, Vienna

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The Royal Deck Tearoom aboard The Royal Yacht Britannia

Experience Tripadvisor's No. 1 UK Attraction 2023 and while on board visit the stunning Royal Deck Tearoom. A fabulous extension to the five-star Britannia experience, the Tearoom has stunning waterfront views and waiter service.

The Royal Yacht Britannia, Tripadvisor's Best UK Attraction 2023 Please note Britannia will be closed 25-28 June due to the construction work and redevelopment of Ocean Terminal Shopping Centre.  

Please check the Britannia website for full opening times and prices.

Aboard The Royal Yacht Britannia in Edinburgh, the Royal Deck was previously where the Royal Family enjoyed drinks receptions, sumptuous buffets, or played deck games.

Now you can treat yourself with speciality teas or coffees in the spectacular surroundings of the Royal Deck Tearoom  during your visit to The Royal Yacht Britannia. Choose from our menu of soups, sandwiches, cakes and scones, all made on board. Treat yourself to a glass of bubbly as you admire the stunning waterfront views!

Discover the heart and soul of this very special Royal residence with an audio tour  of The Royal Yacht Britannia, available in over 30 different languages. Visitor centre, Gift Shop , Tearoom and free parking at Ocean Terminal.

Transport and Parking

Accessibility.

• Accessible Parking Or Drop-off Point
• Lift or stairlift
• Wheelchair access throughout
• Accessible toilets

Dietary Options

• Gluten Free
• Vegan Meals Available

Typical Prices

Cuisine types, related items of interest.

• Sailing on Royal Racing Yacht Bloodhound

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What's Nearby

Accommodation, attractions, food & drink, terms and conditions.

• What's On

Alexandra Dock, Leith, Edinburgh,  EH6 7DX - Email: [email protected] Tel: +44 (0)131 357 5000

Afternoon Tea

The ultimate indulgence.

This most decadent and dainty of British traditions is enjoyed on board Fingal with a backdrop of exquisite Art Deco interiors.

Enjoy a range of the finest teas followed by a selection of perfectly formed sandwiches. Take a seat under the shimmering ceiling and indulge in exquisite savoury and sweet delicacies.

Add some sparkle to the occasion with a glass of Champagne or two and allow the views of Leith Docks to entertain you, like an ever-changing image.

Pre-booking required.

Opening hours

Served 7 days, 12.30pm - 3.30pm Advance reservation required.

(Jan-May & Sept-Nov, served Wed-Sun)

£65 per person

Include a glass of Champagne: £80

Festive Afternoon Tea

Feel full of the festive spirit with our Christmas Afternoon Tea, 20 Nov - 4 Jan.

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Royal Deck Tea Room

Location & Hours

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The Royal Yacht Britannia

Ocean Drive

Leith EH6 6JJ

United Kingdom

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Overall rating

I was very excited about visiting Royal Britannia and her tea room. No reservations, first come, first serve. They had delightful sandwiches and desserts including Queen Victoria's favorite cake. The Lemon cake was delicious. You have a nice view of the Ocean Terminal even on a rainy day. It's not high tea but you know you're in for a treat. Service was good and friendly. A nice way to start or end your tour of Britannia. If you have time in Edinburgh enjoy this treat and lovely ship.

I mean you gotta try a tea or champagne on the Royal Yacht. Walk up one of the stairs. We were promptly greeted and sat on a later Friday afternoon. The menu is pretty deep. We had traditional tea earlier in the afternoon, so we opted to share a chicken salad sandwich and a slice of carrot cake. We both had some bubbles before toured the yacht. The food was surprisingly good. The service and ambiance were on point. The whole yacht experience as good. Highest recommendation when in Edinburgh

Afternoon tea on the Royal Yacht

an absolutely perfect dining experience. delicious food, decent prices, friendly service, and an incredible view. i tried the salmon sandwich and i thoroughly enjoyed it, it was very tasty. i also got a mocha which was equally as good and even came with foam art of the ship on top! definitely stop in for a bite to eat if you're visiting the ship.

Wonderful spot for afternoon tea! 10/10 recommend a royal experience! We'll definitely return!

It was nice and pleasantly British. My mother had tea and scones. I had a sandwich, chips (fries), and a cappuccino. Nice place on a great ship.

This is just a museum. It's a bit packed and a little expensive. The audio tour is free but starts putting you to sleep after a bit. Luckily there are chairs on the boat for you to sleep on ha. Staff is friendly. There's only 29 audio stops which adds up

This is a restuarant in the middle of your tour of the Royal Yacht Britannia. We only had tea and scones. About 40 pounds for 4 which is pricey. But we had fun imagining we were having tea with the Queen. You are paying for the experience. Tea was tea. Nothing special. But the scones were tasty, along with the cream and jam. The mocha was hot and delicious too, plus they sprinkled the brown sugar on top in the shape of the Britannia. Cute.

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Food and Drink

12 places to try afternoon tea in edinburgh: hotels, cafes & castles.

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We are obsessed with afternoon tea in Edinburgh. This unique foodie experience is loved by locals (us), visitors, and royalty alike, who often replace lunch with trays of cakes, scones, and sandwiches! Many of Edinburgh’s hotels offer packages in opulent settings, and a handful of Instagram-worthy cafes also serve afternoon tea platters.

On a budget? We’ll show you where to find the cheapest afternoon teas in the city, which don’t skimp on service or quality.

Hotels With Afternoon Tea In Edinburgh

Palm court at the balmoral in the city centre.

No stranger to the top hotel lists in Edinburgh, an afternoon tea at The Balmoral’s Palm Court is a big foodie bucket list.

Palm Court is the room across from the main entrance of The Balmoral, next to the reception desk.

This airy room has its huge glass dome to thank for its ambience and palm trees for its name.

A chandler hangs from the roof, and champagne afternoon tea packages are available.

There is a harp which sits on the balcony.

The menu consists of various teas, including loose-leaf and infusions, and the meal starts with a fresh, cold soup.

Fresh scones, cakes, and classic and contemporary sandwiches are also included.

Can’t finish it all? Guests can take food home via a gift plate.

This is an award-winning Edinburgh afternoon tea experience.

Prices start at £70 per person.

Why not make it an overnight stay in a suite with Edinburgh Castle views and a swim at The Balmoral Spa?

The Balmoral is fe atured in many of our accommodation guides, including the best hotels with indoor pools, parking, and dog-friendly accommodations.

Read our Balmoral Hotel review. We stayed in room 314, A Deluxe Castle View Room.

The Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse

You don’t have to travel to the countryside to experience the quality hospitality delivered at Gleneagles.

The five-star hotel’s townhouse at St Andrew Square presents a weekday afternoon tea in its exquisite bar.

The menu features loose-leaf tea, savoury bites, buns, tarts, scones, and the optional glass of Veuve Clicquot.

Prices start from £60 per person.

I’ve not done the afternoon tea yet, but I highly recommend their indulgent monthly brunch .

Afternoon Tea At Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh

Did you know that The Waldorf Caledonian is located on what used to be the old Caledonian Railway?

The luxury afternoon tea here is on the right track for an eventful day out.

An indulgent afternoon tea is served daily at Peacock Alley, located within the lobby lounge. It includes pastries such as orange and blackberry domes, rose jelly, and Elderflower and rhubarb tarts!

Afternoon teas at The Waldorf start at £60 per person.

Why not create a staycation at The Waldorf and enjoy Castle Views and Guerlain spa treatment?

The Waldorf is in the West End of Edinburgh, where plenty of bars and restaurants exist.

The historic Dean Village is very close by.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh (@waedinburgh)

Prestonfield House

Dine on the patio or in the gothic drapes of Prestonfiend House’s Rhubarb Restaurant, which features in the UK’s Married At First Sight.

Three trays of cakes, rock scones, and sandwiches are presented with an extensive tea menu.

The menu also includes melt-in-your-mouth haggis bonbons and tasty sausage rolls.

There is also a vegetarian menu if you don’t eat meat.

Prices start at £60 per person.

Definitely check out the grand loos, painted pink and with an animal-print seat, if you need to sleep off your food coma.

Prestonfield House is surrounded by green space and is home to two free-roaming peacocks and highland cows in a field.

A taxi from Waverley Train Station costs around £10, and the walk is approx 40 minutes.

Prestonfield House features in our most romantic hotels in Edinburgh guide .

Cafes and Restaurants With Afternoon Tea in Edinburgh

Mimi’s bakehouse.

Mimi’s Bakehouse is a popular cafe in Edinburgh. Two of its locations, Leith and Corstorphine, offer afternoon tea menus.

Mimi’s afternoon tea stands serve freshly made sandwiches, sausage rolls, plain and fruit scones, homemade jam, and Cornish clotted cream.

Plus, fresh cakes include carrots, meringue, and tray bakes.

The drinks menu features Edinburgh’s Eteaket Tea.

Staff can accommodate vegan, vegetarian, GF, and picky eaters – it is worth calling to speak to the Leith branch directly to put in requests.

Prices start from £37.50 per person, making Mimi’s one of Edinburgh’s more affordable afternoon teas.

Dare you to try to leave without buying more tray bakes!

Afternoon Tea At Harvey Nichols, St Andrew’s Square

A classic afternoon tea can be enjoyed at the upmarket shopping mall, Harvey Nichols .

Served with Edinburgh’s skyline in view, the session includes sandwiches, quiche, cakes, and scones.

Prices start at £35 per person.

The Forth Floor and Window Room feature in our guide to Edinburgh’s best rooftops .

The Colonnades at the Signet Library, Old Town

Edinburgh’s finest afternoon tea can be devoured at the Signet Library .

Located in the shadows of St Giles’ Cathedral on  Parliament Square in the Royal Mile, the Signet afternoon tea is one of the most luxurious in Edinburgh.

The popular wedding venue opens Thursday through Sunday for delectable afternoon teas created by Craig, the resident head chef, and Aung, the sous chef.

The drinks menu includes a range of soft drinks, alcoholic options, and tea, such as the Signet variation.

The first round of food is a small soup served in a cup.

The next is the savoury trays, which consist of dainty pastries, sandwiches, and soufflé presented on three silver trays.

The next is the dessert tray, packed with warm scones, chocolate puddings, fruit cakes, and colourful macaroons.

Finally, a cold fruit sorbet is served to cleanse the palate.

Gluten-free, vegetarian, vegan, and fussy eater adaptations are available upon request.

Notify the booking team at least 48 hours before.

A unique thing to do in Edinburgh’s Old Town !

Prices start at £65 per person, and while this is one of the more expensive afternoon teas in Edinburgh, it is worth every penny. Each mouthful is a burst of flavour, and the team is very accommodating.

Fun trivia: The Signet library was used as an Outlander filming location and features the inside of the Governor’s mansion in Jamaica. 

Afternoon Tea At Edinburgh Castle

If you plan to visit Edinburgh Castle , you can book an afternoon tea at the Tea Rooms of Crown Square.

Prices start from £54 per person.

You can enjoy afternoon tea at The Café at the Palace of Holyroodhouse (9) and the Royal Deck Tea Room at the Royal Yacht Britannia (10). Read our HMY Britannia review .

You may also like our weekend guide to Edinburgh .

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Edinburgh Castle (@edinburghcastle)

Willows Tea Rooms

Glasgow’s famous and first tea room has settled into its new location on Princes Street in Edinburgh.

Known for its cakes and sandwiches and Charles Rennie Mackintosh architecture, this Scottish landmark boasts floor-to-ceiling castle views.

I’ve yet to try this spot, but based on my review of Glasgow’s Willow Tea Rooms, you should have a promising experience.

Prices start at £19.95, and menus, including those meeting dietary requirements, can be found on the website .

Holy Cow Lounge

Holy Cow Lounge (1 Dundee St) is located in the West End of Edinburgh, 5 5-minute walk from Lothian Road and 10 minutes from Haymarket Train Station.

The bright and airy cafe is located on the first floor of the striking Edinburgh Printmakers; the space is delightful.

There are domes outside in the garden for private dining.

Holy Cow Lounge’s platter is vegan and gluten-free, retaining taste and texture.

The portions are huge and feature scones with jam and yoghurt, ‘normal’- sized sandwiches, wraps, and cakes.

All of these are cooked from scratch using dairy-free and gluten-free ingredients.

You don’t have to be vegan or gluten-free to enjoy this Edinburgh afternoon tea.

However, you need lots of space in your belly to finish it, or you can take a doggy bag home!

Tea is included in the package, but you can add a different beverage, like the photogenic blue latte, if you wish.

Holy Cow Lounge is not to be confused with Holy Cow (34 Elder St), located at the other end of Edinburgh’s City Centre.

They are the same brand at different locations, and the Lounge is the only venue that serves afternoon teas.

Prices start at £35.

Cheap Afternoon Teas in Edinburgh

There are several ways to do this if you are looking for a budget-friendly afternoon tea.

Check out discount websites such as Itison or Groupon for decent afternoon tea deals.

For example, I’ve booked afternoon tea at the Mercure Hotel for £14 for two people instead of £15 per person.

Another option is to sign up for hotel and restaurant newsletters and follow them on social media so you don’t miss an offer.

About Afternoon Teas

So, who started afternoon teas?

Legend has it that Anna Maria Stanhope, 7th Duchess of Bedford, felt a pang of hanger come over between lunch and dinner, which she described as “having that sinking feeling .” The solution? Tucking into tea and cakes in her dressing room around 4pm.

She invited friends to join her, which caught the attention of Queen Victoria, who adopted the afternoon tea experience quicker than you can say that cake’s scone…

What’s the Difference Between Afternoon Tea and High Tea?

High tea is an afternoon tea with the addition of a main meal such as steak pie.

Less popular in restaurants now, high teas were one of the highlights of my childhood!

Other Foodie Guides on Ev Ed

• Foods you can’t miss when visiting Edinburgh
• The restaurants, by type, we love
• Where to eat brunch in Edinburgh
• Food and drink delivered to your door
• The most romantic restaurants
• Edinburgh beer gardens & map
• Craft beer crawl for beer fans

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Gemma is the owner of Everything Edinburgh, the friendly resource for visitors and locals. She adores Edinburgh's cafes, pub crawls, live gigs, and city tours. Gemma still mourns the death of Espionage nightclub.

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The Foodie Travel Guide> Things to do in Edinburgh> Afternoon Tea Royal Yacht Britannia

Take Afternoon Tea on the Deck of The Royal Yacht Britannia in Leith

by The Foodie Travel Guide | Jan 15, 2019

The Royal Yacht Britannia, Leith, Edinburgh, Scotland

Treat yourself to a royal Afternoon Tea on her majesty’s yacht Britannia, the former royal yacht of Queen Elizabeth II. The ship’s a grand old lady now, having sailed over 1,000,000 miles around the world.

The Royal Yacht Britannia Story

There must be many memories and stories held deep within the bows of Britannia. We’ve all seen early colour footage from the sixties of the Queen looking carefree in her sunglasses and waving from the deck. You may remember too, Princess Diana warmly greeting the arrival of her young sons with arms outstretched and a big smile on her face. On the day the yacht was decommissioned in 1997, the Queen wept openly at the ceremony.

“I name this ship BRITANNIA, I wish success to her and to all who sail in her”.

Her Majesty The Queen, 16 April 1953

Step On Board A Floating Palace

The ship was built in Clydebank in 1954 to serve the Royal family when travelling overseas but also with the dual purpose of becoming a hospital ship, if required. She became a floating royal residence for glittering state visits, official receptions, honeymoons and family holidays.

How to Find The Royal Yacht Britannia

The Royal Yacht Britannia, Ocean Drive, Edinburgh EH6 6JJ

The Foodie Travel Guide

Sally is the founder and editor of The Foodie Travel Guide. She travels around the UK and beyond in search of the best foodie days out, tasting experiences and delicious places to stay. She loves a glass of English sparkling wine, afternoon tea with friends and escaping London for gastronomic adventures. 

Tour the Royal Yacht Britannia

• One of the UK’s top tourist attractions
• Enjoy views of the Firth of Forth
• Take Afternoon Tea
• Taste home-made fudge in the NAAFI sweet shop
• Explore Leith’s bar and restaurants

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Stay at our five-star 22-cabin luxury floating hotel, Fingal.

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Champagne afternoon tea with royal yacht private tour.

Experience an afternoon of luxury on board two of Scotland’s famous ships, Fingal and The Royal Yacht Britannia.

Step aboard  Fingal  for a Champagne Afternoon Tea in The Lighthouse Restaurant & Bar . Boarding Fingal along the red carpeted gangway, you will ascend the spiral staircase, or take the magnificent glass lift, up to the top deck where our stunning Lighthouse Restaurant & Bar is located.

Enjoy this most decadent of British traditions with a backdrop of exquisite Art Deco-inspired interiors and views to match. Watch vibrant vessels come and go as you enjoy a chilled glass of Moët Champagne followed by a range of the finest teas and a selection of perfectly formed savoury and sweet delicacies.

During your private tour of  The Royal Yacht Britannia , your personal guide will give you a captivating tour behind-the-ropes of this historic ship. You will board Britannia via The Royal Brow, the entrance previously reserved for Queen Elizabeth II. You will gain a unique insight into the history of the Royal Yacht and how the Royal Family and crew lived and worked on board.

As a special memento of your tour, you will receive an official Britannia Guidebook.

Private Tour (0 - 14 guests) from £1180 inc VAT. Additional charge of £65 per person for Champagne Afternoon Tea aboard Fingal.

For further information please contact our Events team on +44 (0)131 555 8800 or email [email protected] .

Enhance your experience with a night on board Fingal . Prices from £300 per cabin, including a full Scottish breakfast.

Visiting Britannia

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The Royal Yacht Britannia is scheduled to be closed 7 – 10 October for planned building works out with our control.

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Step aboard to enjoy a great day out!

Get away from the everyday aboard Britannia’s sister ship, Fingal.  Extend your visit with a stay in one of Fingal’s luxurious cabins, your own oasis by the sea. 

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Visiting Russia - Makhachkala, Capital of Dagestan

By Koryo Tours

Makhachkala, Capital of Dagestan

Visiting Russia – Makhachkala

Yoshkar-ola | cheboksary  |  astrakhan | elista | stalingrad (volograd)  | abakan  |  nalchik  | validkavkaz  | grozny.

Makhachkala is the capital city of the Republic of Dagestan, and the largest city in this part of the North Caucasus with around 600,000 people calling the city home.

While Dagestan has a bit of a bad reputation for extremism (justifiably, given that there have been various serious issues over the last couple of decades or so) Makhachkala itself is a very diverse and generally tolerant city with a fascinating combination of Russian influence and the flavours of the Caucasus and all its peoples in general. The ethnic mix here is particularly interesting, the largest group would be Avars who make up around a quarter of the people of Makhachkala.  – Avars are a North Caucasian people, as are Kumyks (2nd in terms of population), Darghins (3rd), Lezgins (4th), Laks (5th), Tabasarans (7th) and so on.

Compared to neighbouring Chechnya which has a high degree of ethnic homogeneity this is very notable. It makes for a far more diverse urban population than most would expect, also notable that identifying as a ‘Dagestani’ is not really a thing at all! Makhachkala is on the Caspian Sea, the west coast, it is one of the largest cities on this inland sea (with Baku, Azerbaijan being by far the most prominent and biggest) and has a very Mediterranean vibe when at the seaside. Visiting this part of the city is an absolute must, especially on a sunny day! Founded initially as a Russian fort in the mid 19th Century Makhachkala has gone by many names (both Russian and native). When known as Petrovsk it was briefly used as an air base by the occupying Royal Air Force (of the UK) during the Russian Civil War After the consolidation of victory of the Red forces the name was settled on Makhachkala, after the local revolutionary hero Magomed-Ali ‘Makhach’ Dakhadaev. Makhachkala is a somewhat chaotic city, in great contrast to the order and polish of the rebuilt centre of Grozny, many visitors who have been to Russia though will notice the familiar cracked sidewalks, random abandoned buildings, constant renovation, demolition, and building of somewhat unattractive malls and retail outlets.

It is largely unplanned, heavy with traffic, and generally bustling. The Central area near the beach is the most pleasant with some surviving examples of 19th and early 20th Century architecture, as well as some high-Soviet buildings still standing. The outskirts tent towards the utilitarian late-Soviet and 21st Century ‘Chinese-Style’ apartment buildings A note on drinking – Dagestan is not a dry republic, but still, the majority of people in Makhachkala and the republic, in general, do not touch alcohol. Being majority Muslim here does mean that beer houses and bars have to operate in a certain way. What most of them do is set themselves up as ‘fish bars’ where you can buy a wide range of smoked fish (they are delicious, if a little pungent sometimes) and also get a beer to go with your snack, including locally brewed ones.

Customers usually then sit in a booth and a curtain is drawn around them to protect their modesty. It does have the result of projecting shame onto the furtive drinker, whether you generally feel shame while having a beer or not. Quite an experience and something to be tried for sure! Do not take photos of people drinking alcohol - that's considered a bit rude.

Arriving/Departing

Uytash Airport (MCX) lies to the South of Makhachkala and serves mostly domestic destinations in Russia as well as the occasional flight to Dubai and various charter flights to Jeddah and Medina during Hajj season.

The airport is named for a fighter ace who was a Crimean Tatar, which makes it an odd choice of name for the eastern end of the North Caucasus. By rail Makhachkala is connected to the main Russian system so reaching here from Vladikavkaz and even further up into European Russia is also an option. Being a Caspian Sea port should enable access to the neighbouring countries of Iran, Turkmenistan, Azerbaijan, and Kazakhstan but in reality, there is little passengers traffic from here. Worth checking out options on cargo ships though if you’re feeling adventurous! To get to the best city to visit in Dagestan, Derbent, there is a train that takes a leisurely 4 hours riding down the coast of the Caspian Sea.

This is by far the best way to get between the two most significant settlements in Dagestan.

Makhachkala Grand Mosque – one of the biggest in Russia this is the main attraction in the city. It is a Sunni Mosque and people here do take their religion seriously, so the dress code is enforced, women cannot go into the men’s section (nor vice versa) and casual visitors may get some looks from worshippers if they show up during prayer time.

This is very much a functional house of worship rather than something aimed at tourists. Still do go and see it, and check out the I Heart Mosque sign outside (a play on the almost-Omnipresent ‘I Heart Wherever-I-am’ signs you will have seen before.

This is an impressive multi-domed white building, reminiscent of the Istanbul Blue Mosque.

Lenin Square

A large space in the city centre with a towering Lenin Statue and all the main government buildings for the administration of the Republic of Dagestan plus the House of Friendship, local telecom base, Museum of the Republic, and so on. Basically the proper heart of the secular city. The Buildings here are very attractive and the size of the square makes it popular with kids playing, families strolling etc. Don’t miss the very pleasant park to the south of Lenin Square, in summer people often sell antiques here, bargains and curios aplenty!

In summer this is very much an unmissable spot. To many people who know nothing of Dagestan apart from its reputation for Islamic Extremism the idea of a beach full of sunbathers here is a bit of an odd one, but here you can find all manner of people, dressed conservatively, or very un-conservatively mixing and enjoying the sun. The beach is around 1km long and nicely sandy, the sea is cold but most people seem to be sunbathing rather than water bathing. Cafes and sitting areas are set up and it is a very pleasant spot. the buildings around here give off a Mediterranean vibe also. There may be no beer bottles but the range of ice creams for sale is highly impressive!

Makhachkala Bazaar

Inconveniently located uphill to the south of the city the main bazaar is a modern kind of place, in that it is not one of the particularly attractive bazaars that people may imagine. Most things sold are functional or the kind of clothing you can find anywhere, but there are still a few places selling Dagestani carpets and local trinkets.

Worth it for people-watching and as a reason to take a trek across the city (or jump on a public bus or marshrutka, there are loads of them and they are very cheap) to save some effort!

Statues and Monuments

As we have come to expect from Russian cities Makhachkala is full of interesting statues and monuments – two Lenins, a Pushkin (of course), Kirov, Rahul Gazmatov (an Avar poet), the city father Makhach Dakhadayev on a horse, a great monument to Dagestani fighters for Soviet power (outside the House of Friendship). And an excellent monument to Imam Shamil – the hero of Caucasian resistance to Russian imperialism.

Also, there is a Tu-134 monument at the airport.

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Travel Guide to Dagestan: Welcome to Russia’s Wild West!

As often is the case with off-the-beaten-path destinations around the world, they can be well-known by foreigners for all the wrong reasons.  Dagestan is a great example of this.  In the late 1990s and early 2000s, Dagestan began registering on foreigners’ radars because of the spillover of the Chechen wars into the region.  Then, once things stabilized post-war, Dagestan’s wrestlers hit the international scene, reaching its pinnacle when Khabib Nurmagomedov defeated Irishman Conor MacGregor for the UFC world championship in 2018.    Today, most foreigners associate the word “Dagestan” with Khabib and his sheep wool hat .

While Khabib’s rise to fame is to be commended, all of this hides what Dagestan actually could be best known for: its incredible mountain landscapes, fascinating history, linguistic diversity, and incomparable hospitality towards guests.  As biased as we are towards the entire North Caucasus, we have to be honest: Dagestan is the gem of all travel destinations in the region.  Why, you ask?  Keep reading to find out!

1. How do I get to Dagestan?

Dagestan used to be a stop on the ancient Silk Road, and as a result is located at the crossroads of Europe and Asia.  There are a plethora of ways to get there, all of which may be part of the adventure itself.

A. Plane – There are daily domestic and international flights to Dagestan’s capital, Makhachkala (MCX).  As is to be expected, there are a good number of daily flights from Moscow, from all 3 airports (SVO, DME, and VKO).  You can also fly here from Rostov, Ekaterinburg, St. Petersburg, Kazan, Tyumen, and several other destinations within Russia.  International flights come and go regularly from Istanbul (Turkey), Dubai (UAE), and Aktau (Kazakhstan).  Check flight sites for exact departure cities and frequency of flights. 

B.  Train – Dagestan is Russia’s furthest southern republic and therefore borders Azerbaijan.  There are regular trains to/from Baku, that you can take to/from Derbent and Makhachkala (provided you have visas to both Russia and Azerbaijan).  Regular trains to Makhachkala can be taken from St. Petersburg, Moscow, and Mineralni Vody in the Central Caucasus.  Be prepared, though; a train from St. Petersburg to Makhachkala will take around 40-50 hours!

C.  Car – Despite being bordered to the east by the Caspian Sea, and to the south/west by the seemingly impenetrable Caucasus Mountain range, Dagestan is still very accessible by car.  From the south, cars are allowed to cross the Russian border into Dagestan from Azerbaijan.  From the north, Dagestan is accessible by highway both from the Astrakhan Oblast and Stavropol Krai.  From the west, there is a well-traveled federal highway from Chechnya that enters Dagestan at Khasavyurt.  Last but not least, there are mountain roads into Dagestan, most notably from Chechnya at Lake Kezenoy-am, into the Botlikh district.  Most entrances to Dagestan will have federal security checkpoints, which is normal for the greater Caucasus region.  As long as your documents are in order (passport, visa, registration w/ hotel, migration card), all will be good.

D.  Ferry/boat – Despite the incredible access the Caspian Sea gives to Dagestan from so many countries, there is NO cruise or ferry option to Dagestan from Turkmenistan, Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Iran, or another city from within Russia.  In fact, beyond the obvious beach swimming areas on its coast between Makhachkala and Derbent, Dagestan’s coast is considered a “border zone” with these foreign countries, since the Caspian Sea territory does not all belong to Russia.  Therefore, stick to the previously discussed options as you plan your travel to Dagestan.

2.  Where should I stay? 

Dagestan is a big place to visit with lots of places to stay, so the options here are endless.  Hotel and guesthouse infrastructure is developing rapidly both in the lowlands and the mountains; this is a positive sign of Dagestan’s response to increasing numbers of tourists every year.  Here are some basic recommendations of places to stay in the main cities as well as more remote parts of the mountains:

A. Makhachkala – As Dagestan’s capital and the largest city in the North Caucasus, it’s natural that you’ll spend at least one night here.  Recommended hotels include but are not limited to:

a) 4-star – Comfortable and luxurious – Jacques b) 3-star – Lower budget, in the city – Central City , 1001 Nights , Krepost  

B.  Derbent – The most ancient city in the Caucasus is a must-visit in Dagestan.  Here are two quality hotels for your stay there:  Alie Parusa (on the Caspian Sea Coast) and Evropa (city center).

C.  Gunib – This mountain town is a great option to base out of for several nights, as you visit surrounding villages and locations including Chokh, Gamsutl, Gotsatl, Goor, Khakhib, and more.  Gunib has new hotels being built each year, so you’re sure to find lodging here.  A comfortable hotel with large grounds is Orlinoye Gnezdo in Gunib itself, as well as the quaint EtnoDom in nearby Chokh.

D.  Akhti – This mountainous Lezgi village in the far south of Dagestan is not on most tourists’ radar, but is accessible from Derbent (1.5 hrs.), and has a comfortable 3-star hotel Samur to stay at.

E.  Guest Homes in Mountain Villages – Many tourists will stop in Dagestan’s villages, well-known for their hand-made goods, such as knives, pottery, silverware, woodwork, carpets, etc.  In almost all of these villages without fail, you’ll find a guest house happy to receive you, whether in Kubachi, Balkhar, Untsukul, etc.  Most of these guesthouses either have an Instagram page or little to no English-language advertising, and can be difficult to find if you don’t speak Russian or aren’t traveling with a local guide/tour agency.  If guesthouses are full, a local Dagestani will often be very happy to receive you as a guest in their home, as this is considered a great honor among the hospitable people of the region.

3.  Top cities to visit?  

Dagestan has a fairly well-traveled tourist circuit, particularly between Makhachkala and Derbent.  While we highly recommend visiting the lowland cities, the riches of the region is up in the smaller towns and villages of the mountains.  As a result, we’ll widen our definition of “city” to include some of the more bustling mountain towns as well:

A. Derbent – Any trip to Dagestan must include time in Derbent, one of Russia’s oldest cities.  While the “official” number is 2500 years old, many locals say Derbent’s origins go back 5,000 years!  It truly is a city unlike any other in Russia, having an ancient feel with its narrow cobblestone streets, old fortresses and religious buildings, and extremely diverse population (Lezgins, Tabasaran, Azeris, and many others).  Derbent sits right on the Caspian Sea coast, just 30 minutes from Azerbaijan, and allows for quick access to Dagestan’s beautiful mountains.  There is also a thriving market for the famous Tabasaran carpets.  Do not miss your chance to experience Derbent!

B.  Gunib – If you have several days, get to Gunib as quickly as you can to explore this incredible town and the surrounding region.  Gunib is an Avar village, and is the historical site of battles led by Imam Shamil, Dagestan’s revered spiritual and military leader from the 19th century.  Imam Shamil led the resistance against Russia in the Russian/Caucasus War, particularly from 1829-1859.  Gunib was built right on the side of a mountain, which its windy roads from bottom to top attest to.  There are many day-trips accessible to neighboring regions, abandoned villages, natural attractions, etc.  Gunib is approx. 4-5 hrs. from both Makhachkala and Derbent.

C.  Kubachi – This famous Dargin village is most well-known for the beautiful pottery produced by local women and sold around the world.  If you have the opportunity, take a master class and try your hand at this craft.  Kubachi is one of many Dagestani villages that is worth your time to visit, meet the local people, enjoy the beautiful nature, and learn about their culture, language, and traditions.

4.  Best local foods to try?

Where to start in this republic of 35+ different nationalities, each with their distinct spin on popular, common dishes?  We humbly submit these three recommendations, with the understanding that there are probably ten times as many Dagestani dishes that deserve to be on this list!

A. Khinkal – To not include a meat and bread dish in this list would amount to blasphemy among locals. 🙂  Khinkal is Dagestan’s version of the dumpling, and there are many different versions depending which nationality is cooking it: Avar, Dargin, Lak, etc.  The basic ingredients remain the same, though:  beef and bread, prepared with lots of love.  This dish can take a while to prepare but is well worth the wait!

B.  Urbetch – This is unique to Dagestan and is essentially Caucasus peanut butter, made out of ground-up seeds!  There are many different flavors you can find urbetch in, but all of them will stick to the roof of your mouth. 🙂  Very healthy and goes great on apple slices!

C.  Kurch – While often a stereotype of Russians is that they all eat buckwheat oatmeal (i.e. grechka), in Dagestan, there is a much tastier option: kurch.  Kurch is an Avar dish, oatmeal made from dried apricots (grown locally in the mountains).  Just picture yourself taking in a beautiful Caucasus sunrise in Dagestan’s mountains, while eating some apricot oatmeal.  Enough said!

D.  Oven-baked bread – Also unique to Dagestan in the Caucasus region, you can find bread cooked in traditional under-ground ovens, plastered to the side of the round, circular walls.  Bread is an essential part of the Caucasus diet that goes with meat, soup, and really any sit-down meal. A warm loaf of bread fresh out of a Dagestani oven will be something you won’t soon forget!  These ovens can be found among different Dagestani peoples/villages in the mountains, particularly among the Tabasaran people in southern Dagestan.

5.  What are the best hole-in-the-wall restaurants?

We strongly recommend you rely on your local guide’s recommendations for good restaurants to visit, and when you feel comfortable, accept a local’s invitation to dine in their home!  With that being said, here are two restaurant options for Makhachkala, Dagestan’s bustling capital:

A. Int – This restaurant is an ethno-cafe with authentic national decorations throughout, as well as traditional Dagestani dishes to try.  We highly recommend trying the Lak dish of kyachi here, or, filling meat pies.

B.  Hutorok – All of this restaurant’s ingredients are grown in the Avar mountain villages of Chokh and Sogratl, which makes for some mouth-watering dishes! 

As in most restaurants in the North Caucasus, if you don’t speak Russian, you may have difficulty communicating with your waiter, and there may not even be an English-language menu.  This is part of the experience in a developing tourism infrastructure.  Enjoy the ride and, especially, enjoy the food!

6.  What are the top 3 must-see destinations in Dagestan?

In reality, there is probably more like a top 33, or even top 53 list, but this is a good place to start. 🙂

A. Derbent – If there is one city to visit in the region, Derbent is the one, without a doubt.  From the 8th-century Shia mosque, to the 5th-century UNESCO citadel/fortress Naryn-Kala, to the local cemetery of 10th-century Muslim martyrs, Derbent oozes with ancient history and feels like a country of its own.

B.  Sulak Canyon – Did you know Dagestan is home to a river canyon even deeper than the Grand Canyon in the US?  The Sulak Canyon is less than 1.5 hrs. from Makhachkala, and is probably the most Instagrammed destination in Dagestan.  You will love the view of the teal-colored Sulak River snaking its way through the foothills on its way to the Caspian Sea.  If you have the chance, make sure to take the gravel road to the river itself, and take a boat ride, seeing beautiful waterfalls and enjoying fresh fish for lunch. 

C.  Craftsmen villages – To only list one of these villages would be a disservice to the rest.  Dagestan is famous for its unique hand-made goods, many of which are made in only one village in the entire republic. 

This includes, but is not limited to Kubachi (pottery), Untsukul (woodworking, vases), Balkhar (silversmithing, jewelry), Kizlyar (knives), Khuchni (carpets). 

All these villages are within a couple hours of either Makhachkala or Derbent.  Deeper into the mountains you can find hand-made burkas and more. 

7.  What are the top 2 off-the-beaten-path destinations to visit?

75% of Dagestan IS off-the-beaten-path :), even for Dagestanis who reside in the lowlands.  More than any other Caucasus republic, Dagestan’s mountain gorges are chock-full of small villages that dot the mountain landscape, places where ancient cultures and languages continue to be preserved, such as the Rutul, Andi, Chamalal, Tindi, and more.

While we have only experienced the tip of the iceberg, here are some mountain gems we recommend you seek out!

A. Abandoned villages – For better or worse, Dagestan’s mountains have a lot of abandoned villages, mainly due to families moving to the cities/lowlands.  Several of these have gone viral in recent years due to Instagram and drone footage on Youtube.  Here are 3 villages you can do day-trips from Gunib or Chokh to, that will take your breath away:

-Gamsutl – This is probably the most famous of abandoned Dagestani villages, called the Machu Pichu of Russia.  With an off-road vehicle, Gamsutl is about a 45 minute drive from Chokh (not far from Gunib), followed by a 1.5 hr. hike on foot up to its perch at the edge of a mountain.  You can stroll through this village that hasn’t had any residents since the 1950s, as well as capture fantastic pictures and videos from above. 

-Goor – This abandoned village is about a 2.5 hr. drive from Gunib in the Shamilsky region.  Once your vehicle has climbed the windy gravel road up to New Goor (where the descendants of Old Goor now live), it’s just another 20 minutes up to Old Goor.  Goor has several watchtowers still standing and its ruins back right up to the edge of a cliff with an incredible view of the surrounding region’s villages and landscape.  Experiencing a sunset here is really something special, as Dagestani village lights pop up as far as the eye can see.

-Kakhib – This tower-filled village is Goor’s neighbor, and so you can visit both villages in the same day.  Kakhib was built literally on the side of a steep mountain; the engineering ingenuity of ancient Dagestani builders is really to be commended.  You can hike through this abandoned village as well, and learn about its history from locals who love to meet its visitors and treat them to a cup of chai (hot tea). 

8.  Do I need a border permit to visit Dagestan?

As with any location within Russia, many foreigners are required to have a visa to enter the country, so make sure you take care of this first.  Most of Dagestan’s well-known tourist destinations are accessible without a border permit, except for some of the more remote parts of the region in the South, that border Azerbaijan and Georgia. 

To avoid any accidental mis-step into the border zone and potential serious issues with the Russian border police, make sure to plan your travel in advance, based on sound advice from experienced people in the region.  If you’re able to have a local guide with you from a tour agency to ensure you don’t have any issues close to the border, this is ideal.  If you do want to visit one of the more remote regions of Dagestan in the border zone, you’ll need to request a permit at least 60 days in advance through official avenues in Dagestan.  This is best done via a local guide or tour agency. 

9.  What should I know about Dagestan to avoid any cultural faux pas?

Respect for the local culture is paramount wherever one may travel around the world, and Dagestan is no exception.  Remember that Dagestan is a relatively conservative republic and quite religious in certain parts, and so modest dress is greatly appreciated.  For men, this means wearing pants in public (no shorts!).  For women, this means primarily wearing knee-length loose-fitting skirts as well as loose-fitting shirts that aren’t revealing.  Local people notice when guests/tourists make an effort to respect their traditions, and that generous spirit will be reciprocated by your hosts.

What are you waiting for?  Dagestan is waiting!  Enjoy your visit to Russia’s Wild West!

To learn more in-depth about all Dagestan has to offer, check out some of these podcast episodes by CaucasTalk :

– Travel Tips to Dagestan – Interview with local guide Vlad

– The Dazzling Languages of Dagestan – Interview with Linguist Dr. Maria Polinsky

– Dagestan “In Their Own Words” – Interview with local Dagestani Hasan

– Sports in the North Caucasus – The history and culture of wrestling in Dagestan

READY TO TRAVEL TO DAGESTAN WITH A HASSLE-FREE TOUR?

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What We Know About the Church and Synagogue Attacks in Dagestan

At least 15 police officers and five civilians including a priest have been killed in coordinated attacks on  two Orthodox churches and two synagogues in Russia’s North Caucasus republic of Dagestan on Sunday evening.

Russian law enforcement has deemed the attacks, which saw both police and National Guard officers deployed, as "acts of terror."

The attacks are the latest domestic security failure since the invasion of Ukraine, following an anti-Israeli mob at Dagestan’s main airport in October 2023 and the Moscow concert hall massacre of March 2024, which was partly carried out by Tajik nationals and claimed by the Islamic State group.

Here is what we know:

The attacks

Gunmen launched the attacks almost simultaneously in Derbent, a city on the Caspian Sea coast, as well as in Dagestan’s capital Makhachkala.

The attack took place on Pentecost Sunday, a holiday in the Russian Orthodox Church.

In Derbent, unknown individuals got out of a white Volkswagen car and set fire to an Orthodox church and a synagogue located a few blocks apart. A police officer who attempted to stop the attackers was killed.

The Russian Jewish Congress said gunmen fired at police and security guards and threw in Molotov cocktails 40 minutes before evening prayers. It said that the brunt of the attack was suffered by local police and security guards who were stationed there following last year’s storming of Makhachkala airport.

At Derbent's Orthodox church, attackers killed Father Nikolai Kotelnikov, a 66-year-old priest, and the church’s security guard. 

The Govorit NeMoskva news outlet spoke with a local who described the priest as a beloved figure in the community.

“He was always ready to accept and listen, day and night. … This city did not lose a priest. The city lost its Father and became orphaned,” the local said.

In Makhachkala, attackers set the local synagogue on fire, the Russian Jewish Congress said.

Law enforcement was engaged in gunfights with the attackers for hours, with gunfire heard on the streets of both Derbent and Makhachkala.

Officials said police had killed four gunmen in Makhachkala and two in Derbent.

Who were the attackers?

While the attackers' identities have not yet been officially confirmed, they reportedly include two sons of the head of Dagestan’s Sergokalinsky district Magomed Omarov. 

After his sons were killed during the anti-terrorist operation, Omarov was detained for further questioning, while law enforcement searched his home.

Omarov also casked to resign, but was swiftly dismissed by the ruling United Russia party and his records were promptly removed from the party’s website.

Another attacker was reportedly Gadzhimurad Kagirov, a freestyle wrestler who previously represented the Eagles MMA club, co-founded by former UFC Lightweight Champion and Makhachkala native Khabib Nurmagomedov.

“I think the biggest takeaway from the profiles of the shooters is that the radicalization pool just grew so much larger, and the Russian authorities are in a lot of trouble,” Harold Chambers, an analyst focusing on nationalism, conflict and security in the North Caucasus, told The Moscow Times. 

“I am certain that Magomed Omarov has, by now, been repeatedly asked: ‘Your relatives were radicalizing, how could you have missed that?’ And that’s the thing, we have zero idea what is going on, and how big this thing is going to get,” he said.

An anonymous source told the Kremlin-backed RT network that Omarov was aware that his sons were sympathizers of Al-Qaeda, a banned terrorist organization, but that he did not disclose this information to either federal or Dagestani authorities.

The source added that the mosque frequented by the shooters and its imam are currently under investigation to find out if the mosque was a base of a Wahhabi cell.

How have officials responded?

More than 12 hours after the attacks began, Kremlin said  that President Vladimir Putin does not plan to make a special address in response.

Asked whether Moscow feared a possible return to insurgent and terror attacks that marred the region in the early 2000s, Kremlin spokesman Dmitry Peskov said: "No. Now there is a different Russia. Society is consolidated and such terrorist manifestations are not supported by society in Russia or in Dagestan."

Dagestan’s leader Sergei Melikov wrote on Telegram that  "we know who is behind these terrorist attacks and what objective they are pursuing," without elaborating further.

"We must understand that war comes to our homes too. We felt it, but today we face it,” he said.

The authorities will try to find "all the members of these sleeper cells who prepared [the attacks] and who were prepared, including abroad," he added.

Dagestan-born State Duma deputy Abdulhakim Gadzhiev, a member of the Security and Anti-Corruption Commissions, said without evidence that he had “no doubt” that the attacks were connected with the special services of Ukraine and NATO countries. 

He was quickly criticized by Dmitry Rogozin, the ex-head of Roscosmos and current senator of Ukraine’s Russian-occupied Zaporizhzhia region, who wrote that the unfounded shifting of blame will “lead us to big problems.”

The state-run TASS agency cited sources as saying that the attackers in Makhachkala and Derbent were affiliated with an international terrorist organization. 

The RBC newspaper corroborated this information with its sources in Dagestani security agencies and added that “several of the attackers were listed in the Interior Ministry databases as having connections in Wahhabi circles.”  

Meanwhile, the Russian Union of Travel Industry recommended that tourists refrain from traveling to Dagestan until further notice. 

Growth of extremism?

Concerns over Islamist extremism were once thought to be a thing of the 1990s and early 2000s, and its defeat was touted as one of the proudest achievements of Putin’s presidency.  However, following the Crocus City Hall massacre in Moscow in March, it has again become a pressing issue.

“This is absolutely part of a larger trend that's been pretty obvious for several years now,” said Chambers. “While there's been little data sociologically on support for extremist groups, Chechen political scientist and historian Mairbek Vatchagaev did do some sociological research on it, showing that there was actually increasing support for ISIS among Chechen youth.

“There is a generational turnover among the militants. Beyond that, especially over the past few years, the very obvious trend among popular North Caucasus resistance channels on Telegram is the embrace of more fundamentalist strains of Islam beyond traditional Sufism, going as far as to embrace Salafism or even Wahhabism,” he said.

Last week, Makhachkala hosted an anti-terrorist meeting between federal security officials and Dagestan leader Sergei Melikov. Meanwhile, Magomed Omarov himself hosted an anti-terrorist meeting in his municipality on April 25, which was attended by Dagestani security officials. 

But Chambers said that the latest attacks underscore how authorities nonetheless failed to learn from the Crocus City Hall attack. 

“The authorities still chased Ukraine's specter rather than Islamic State and failed to curb the arms trafficking which is rampant in the nearby Krasnodar and Rostov regions, which was most likely the origin of the shooters' weapons,” he said.

“Even more difficult is that unlike in Crocus, this attack presented different challenges, because it was carried out by a very tight-knit, local group,” Chambers said. “There were no longer any preemptive warnings from foreign intelligence groups that could assist in this situation, and neither was there the inclination on behalf of the Russian authorities to take the time to investigate potential terrorist cells within Russia.”

What should we know about Dagestan?

Dagestan is a majority Muslim republic in Russia’s North Caucasus region that is home to over 30 ethnic groups and 81 nationalities with 14 official languages. 

It is one of the regions hardest hit by Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and its mobilization for the war.

“The locals clearly understood that the mobilization would put their lives at risk, because they would be placed in positions on the frontline where they would be annihilated, and would receive no protections unlike the Kadyrovites,” Chambers said. 

“This forced Melikov to double down and forbid public gatherings in all capacities, and further isolated Dagestanis to seek alternative information in digital spaces, where they were more likely to be exposed to radicalizing content,” he said.

Russia's FSB security service in April said it had arrested four people in Dagestan on suspicion of plotting the deadly attack on Moscow's Crocus City Hall concert venue in March, which was claimed by the Islamic State group.

Militants from Dagestan are known to have traveled to join IS in Syria, and in 2015, the group declared it had established a "franchise" in the North Caucasus.

Dagestan lies east of Chechnya, where Russian authorities battled separatists in two brutal wars, first in 1994-1996 and then in 1999-2000.

Since the defeat of Chechen insurgents, Russian authorities have been locked in a simmering conflict with Islamist militants from across the North Caucasus that has killed scores of civilians and police.

AFP contributed reporting.

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• Republic of Dagestan

  The capital of Dagestan is Makhachkala and you will find representatives of all of the republic’s many ethnic groups living here: Avars, Kumyks, Dargins, Lezgins, Laks and Russians among dozens of others. Makhachkala began its history in 1844 when it was founded as a Russian fortress. This fortress was called Petrovskoe after Peter the Great who visited the region in 1722 and expressed a desire to found a Russian outpost on the Caspian. It later became known as Petrovsk-Port or simply Petrovsk until the Revolution, when was given the less imperial name of Makhachkala in honour of the Avar Revoultionary Magomed-Ali Dakhadaev, whose pseudonym was Makhach. 

  Makhachkala, like the rest of Dagestan, has a reputation as a dangerous place with a high risk of terrorism. Many Western governments advise against all travel there. However in recent years it has become much safer and tourists from other parts of Russia at least are now visiting, with some foreign tourists too. 

  While Makhachkala is not the best place Dagestan can offer, its historical centre and embankment are very pretty, and it makes a great base for exploring some more remote but breathtaking parts of Dagestan.

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