sailboat anchor bridle

Please verify you are a human

Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.

This may happen as a result of the following:

• Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example)
• Your browser does not support cookies

Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.

Reference ID: ea4d2d53-6bfd-11ef-87f2-6451b91029bc

Powered by PerimeterX , Inc.

How to Anchor and Set Up an Anchor Bridle

In our first episode of the Inspire and Learn Series, catamaran expert Joe Fox talks us through the best technique for a safe and secure anchor, as well as how to set up an anchor bridle.

6 Components of Anchoring

Communication.

• Maneuvering

3 Step Prep

• Remote Access – Pull this out of the hatch and place on the deck
• No Obstructions – Ensure the bridle or any other gear is out of the way of the chain
• Prime the Anchor – Let a tiny bit of chain out and help the anchor over the edge

Amount of Chain

Light wind – 3-4 x Depth

Strong wind (20+knots) – 5-7 x depth

Counting chain length is simply understanding the speed in which the chain drops. (Metres per second).

Person on the bow- looking out for obstacles and lowering the anchor

Person at the helm – maneuvering the vessel

It is important to discuss strategy prior so both parties understand what the plan is.

* Single handed anchoring is possible with an optional chain counter at the helm station

Anchoring Steps

• Check the chart – make sure you understand the contours of the bay you’re entering and find the flat areas. (Keep a look out for shallow unchartered areas).
• Decide on a location/ depth – put a waypoint on the chart
• Stop the boat
• Ensure head to wind
• Drop anchor
• Move backwards – Only once the anchor has hit the bottom. This lays out the chain and ensures it does not tangle.

How to know the anchor is on the bottom

• Depth – (understanding the speed of the anchor windlass).

When the anchor is hanging the chain is tight across the deck, when it has touched the bottom this becomes loose because there isn’t weight at the end.

How to know the anchor is set and secure

Put the vessel in reverse with a bit of power, putting pressure on the anchor and chain and if it is not set, the anchor will drag. If it is set correctly;

• The chain will go tight.
• There will be a shallow angle on it.
• After easing off the engines the boat will bounce back.
• Take a transit on the land using fixed markers. If the alignment changes it means the boat may be drifting.

Bridle Set Up

The bridle creates an artificial bow, spreading the weight between the hulls and moves the centre of effort forward to reduce the swinging while on the anchor.

• Hang lines over the bow
• Put the hook over a complete chain link and ensure the pin has snapped back into place
• Drop chain 5 or 6 metres
• Ensure it is at a nice tight triangular angle
• Chain hangs vertically, looping to the bridle and reducing the pressure on the windlass.

Lifting the Anchor

• Ensure engine is running – this activates the winch
• Retrieve the bridle – bring chain up until bridle is on the bow
• Ensure the bridle is clear of the chain
• Start lifting the rest of the chain
• Start edging the boat forward – not to much as you will go over the top of the chain.
• Communicate – come up with your own signals so the person on the bow can tell the captain where the chain is so that you are not putting stress on the windlass.

Tell us what you're interested in and a member of our expert team will contact you shortly.

LATEST FROM THE BLOG

How to Dock in a Crosswind on a Catamaran (in a tight space) 

by Giorgia Gargiulo

In this episode, join Joe Fox as he walks you through the intricate process of docking a catamaran in a tight berth with a crosswind.

A Perfect Day Aboard the PRESTIGE M48

by Marnie Ebeling

Envision a day spent aboard the PRESTIGE M48, a vessel designed for those who appreciate elegance, versatility, and the joys of boating.

A Closer Look at the Lagoon 55

The Lagoon 55 has quickly set itself apart as the benchmark for offshore catamarans, offering a seamless blend of luxury, comfort, and practicality that suits both couples and families. Clément Dael takes us through this catamaran at the Lagoon Sea Trials in Minorca.

5 key benefits of using a snubber and how to install it on a charter boat

• 5 benefits of using a snubber and how to install it on a charter boat

Are you confident when it comes to anchoring your boat?  In popular sailing destinations like Greece, anchoring is often a necessity due to limited marina space. But there’s no need to feel apprehensive — as long as you follow proper procedures and safety protocols, anchoring can be simple and straightforward. Experienced sailors know that anchoring cannot be done without the use of a snubber. So, if you’re not using one yet, here are five reasons that might convince you to start.

1. More comfort at anchor

A snubber greatly enhances comfort while anchored by absorbing the shocks caused by wind and waves. Without a snubber, the boat can experience sudden, jerky movements as the anchor chain tightens. The elasticity of the snubber acts as a shock absorber , distributing the impact of these external forces more evenly, reducing strain, and making your time at anchor far more pleasant.

YACHTING.COM TIP:  If you really want to learn the ropes, check out our complete guide to the  types of ropes you can find on a boat .  

2. Protecting the anchor windlass

Your anchor windlass is a crucial piece of equipment that you want to keep in good working condition, especially on charter boats where wear and tear are unknown. When the full weight of the boat rests on the windlass — particularly in rough weather — it can easily become overloaded. A snubber helps by transferring the load from the windlass to the boat’s cleats , which are designed to handle high stress. This reduces strain on the windlass, extends its lifespan , and lowers the risk of accidental chain release or motor failure.

3. Anchor chain protection

A snubber not only protects the windlass but also relieves the anchor chain by reducing direct strain. This extends the chain's lifespan and minimizes the risk of damage or breakage, especially in challenging conditions. By absorbing the load that would otherwise be placed on the chain, the snubber prevents wear and tear, ensuring your anchor system remains reliable and secure, even in rough weather.

Check out more sailing tips:

4. peace and quiet on board.

One often overlooked advantage of using a snubber is the significant reduction in noise . Without it, the anchor chain can create loud, unpleasant sounds as it grates or rubs against the boat or seabed, especially in windy conditions. This can be particularly disturbing at night when you’re trying to sleep or relax. A snubber dampens these noises by absorbing the tension in the chain, contributing to a much calmer and quieter atmosphere on board.

5. Show off your expertise

Using a snubber is a clear sign of an experienced and responsible sailor . It shows that you take mooring seriously and that you understand the importance of properly securing your boat. Fellow boaters will notice your professionalism, and you’ll gain confidence, knowing you’ve taken the right steps for a safe and efficient anchoring setup. 

Keep an eye out on your next voyage and see how many boats you see without a snubber.

How to use a snubber on a charter boat

Using a snubber on a charter boat is simple, even without a dedicated chain hook. Follow these tips for easy setup:

Bring your own chain hook

Charter boats typically don’t come with a chain hook, so it’s a good idea to bring your own. Ensure that it fits the chain size, which is usually 8 mm or 10 mm on charter boats. A chain hook makes attaching the snubber both the easiest and most secure option.

One possible type of chain hook.

Do you have a chain hook? Try a shackle or carabiner

If you don’t have a chain hook, you can use a shackle or a carabiner. Be cautious with carabiners, as they can twist under load, making them difficult to remove. A shackle tends to be more reliable. If neither option is available, using the right knot can be just as effective.

Consider the good old rolling hitch knot

A tried-and-true method for attaching the snubber is the rolling hitch knot. This knot securely grips the anchor chain and won’t slip, even under heavy load. Learning to tie this knot is a valuable skill that ensures a secure connection and peace of mind while anchored.

Rolling hitch

YACHTING.COM TIP: Tying knots is a part of sailing. Learn how to tie these  9 essential sailing knots .  

Choosing the right rope for snubber

The snubber rope should be at least 5 metres long and made from flexible, non-floating material  such as nylon, which has the elasticity needed to absorb shock. The rope’s thickness should be based on the weight of your boat. For instance, an 8 mm rope is generally sufficient for boats weighing up to 4.5 tonnes under normal conditions.

While any snubber is better than none, selecting the right one can significantly improve safety and comfort at anchor. Even if a snubber fails, the mooring system will continue to hold the boat, though not as efficiently.

YACHTING.COM TIP: For a refresher on different types of anchors and proper anchoring techniques, check out our complete guide to anchoring and moorings .

Installing a snubber on a sailboat step-by-step

Once you’ve found a suitable bay and successfully anchored, follow these steps to properly install a snubber.

Step 1 : Attach the snubber to the anchor chain

A) If you have a chain hook : Tie the chain hook to the centre of the snubber rope using a double fisherman’s knot, ensuring the hook is securely attached. This allows you to easily clip the hook onto the anchor chain.

B)   If you don’t have a chain hook : Use a rolling hitch knot to tie the centre of the snubber rope directly to the anchor chain. If the chain passes through the bow roller, you can tie the snubber at the anchor gate. Alternatively, if necessary, you may need to lean over the bow and tie the knot onto the hanging chain. 

The process of attaching the snubber to the anchor chain.

Chain hook attached to anchor chain above anchor well.

Step 2: Secure the snubber to the cleats

Run both ends of the snubber rope outside the boat and secure them to the cleats where you usually tie the mooring lines. Ensure that the total length of the snubber, from one cleat, through the anchor chain, to the other cleat, is at least 5 metres. 

Top view of the chain hook attached to the anchor chain behind the bow roller

Step 3: Lower the anchor chain

Release enough of the anchor chain so that it sags by at least one meter below the snubber, under the water. This allows the snubber to take over the load, reducing stress on the mooring gate and the anchor chain. It prevents the chain from pulling directly on the boat and helps absorb shock from waves and wind.

The process ofChain and snubber lowered below the water surface.

Snubber, a.k.a. Bridle on catamarans

On catamarans, a snubber — or more accurately, a "bridle" — is even  more essential  and is usually pre-installed on charter boats. The bridle consists of two ropes , one attached to each hull, making it crucial for distributing the load evenly between them.

This setup is vital because of the unique way catamarans behave when anchored. Due to their size and design, catamarans tend to swing more in the wind compared to monohulls. The bridle helps to stabilize the boat by spreading the load across both hulls, preventing uneven strain and protecting the anchor chain from rubbing against the hull.

Incorporating a snubber or bridle into your anchoring routine ensures a safer and more comfortable experience, regardless of weather conditions. Next time you’re at anchor, look around — you’ll notice that seasoned sailors always rely on these tools for smooth, secure mooring.

For more information on selecting the right snubber or bridle, including calculators to determine the appropriate length, check out resources like the Snubber Head website.

Contact me and together we'll choose the right boat for you.

Denisa Nguyenová

Kestrel Sails!

Boat Therapy

• Boat Projects
• Building an Anchor Bridle

by Terry · May 27, 2020

Last summer, we spent some time at anchor.  Kestrel has an anchor windlass, but no central cleat or post on which to lock the anchor rode down.  There is an opening on the port side of the anchor locker hatch cover leading to the bow cleat, but it is awkward to use and works only for the rope part of the rode.  That means there is no good way to get the load off of the windlass unless all the chain had been deployed.  Also, there is considerable pressure on the anchor roller and a tendency for the rode to chafe on the roller as the bow is blown back and forth. 

The obvious solution is to use an anchor bridle, a device that connects to the rode and is tied to both bow cleats, taking the load off of the anchor roller and the windlass.  I thought to buy an out-of-the-box bridle, but bridled at the cost.  Being winter when my mind was thinking about this, I decided to make one myself.  I like working with rope and this seemed like it would be a fun project.  Between the cost of the parts and the time I spent building the bridle, I’m sure it would have been cheaper to just buy one.  However, I was just going to be doing nothing useful so my time isn’t really a factor.  It did take me longer than I expected, but pretty much everything I do takes longer than I expect.  That said, I really did enjoy the process of building it and am happy with the product.

My good friend Google showed me lots of different bridles and rode attachments, and I read through many board postings from sailors offering up their solutions.   I was in a quandary though because I needed it to attach to both the rope and chain parts of the rode.  There are chain hook rigs that can be used and various knots that can be tied to both chain and rope to attach the bridle.  I thought I had it figured out half a dozen times before I found a reference to the Mantus website.  The bridle system they had on the site seemed to be exactly what I wanted.  That’s when the whole price thing became a factor and I decided to build my own.

Full disclosure here, the bridle I built borrows heavily from the Mantus bridle design.  If you don’t have an affinity for rope work or don’t have time to put into sourcing all the parts and building one, I recommend buying theirs.  If you want a fun project to do at home, read on.

Bridle Construction

The bridle consists of two lengths of 3/4” nylon three-strand rope, spliced together in a V with a stainless steel thimble spliced to the bottom of the V.  Below is a picture of the splice of the V and another showing the thimble spliced in.  The chafe guard material is bunched up so you can see the splice, but it does extend to the end of the splice once extended as shown in the third picture.

At the end of the two arms of the bridle, I added chafe guard and eye splices to allow for easy attachment to the bow cleats.  All of these are standard three-strand splices that have been whipped at the end to keep them tidy.  I also whipped right at the thimble to keep it nice and tight. If you don’t know how to splice three-strand rope, I suggest having a look at the many tutorials on YouTube.  I really wish they had been around when I learned to splice, trying to figure it out from Chapman’s was a challenge.

When constructing the bridle, I wanted to make sure I got the lengths of the two arms of the V as close to the same as possible with minimal cutting and waste.  The approach I took was to use a single length of rope and not cut it until after the thimble and the V had been spliced.  In essence, I ended up with a small eye splice at one end wrapped around a thimble and a huge eye splice of the rest of the rope at the other end such that the two splices ended very near each other.  I then pulled the huge eye tight and cut it at the end away from the splice, giving me two equal length arms.  Those two arms then got eye splices at the end of each for looping onto the bow cleats.  The other trick was getting the chafe guard in place.  I threaded the chafe guard for the thimble after making that first splice.  I made sure it was long enough to cover both the thimble splice and the V splice.   I bunched it up at the thimble end so that I could make the V splice and then pulled it up over the V splice.  I threaded the chafe guard on for the eyes at the ends of the arms before splicing those eyes. I secured all of the chafe guard using whipping thread.  One thing to watch out for is that you need to leave slack in the chafe guard to allow the nylon rope to stretch under load.  I didn’t and now need to go back and re-secure one end at the V.

Pendant Construction

For the attachment of the bridle to the rode, I built a pendant using a length of Dyneema with eye splices at the ends and chafe guard in the middle.  The way it works is to use a prusik knot to attach the pendant to the rode, two-pass for chain or three-pass for rope.  The 3/16” Dyneema has a breaking strength of 5,400 lbs and the prusik is superior to a rolling hitch as it is much easier to remove from the rode after being loaded up while at anchor.  A stainless steel shackle is used to connect the Dyneema to the bridle thimble.  The Dyneema is a single braid and I used a Brummel lock splice.  This is actually a very simple splice and YouTube is a great resource for how-to videos on that one too.  The picture below shows the pendant with chafe guard installed, tied to a rope rode with a three-pass prusik knot, and attached via shackle to the bridle.  I suggest you use a little more chafe guard than you think you need.  Mine ended up being almost not long enough and it would be nice to have a little extra wiggle room.

Bridle Parts

• 55’ – 3/4” 3-strand nylon rope
• 15’ – Cordura tubular chafe sleeve, 2.25” wide
• 1 – 3/4” type 316 stainless steel regular duty thimble

Pendant Parts

• 10’ – 3/16 AmSteel-Blue Dyneema
• 4’ – Dyneema anti-chafing sleeve, small
• 1 – 1/2” Stainless steel screw pin bow shackle

Deploying the Bridle

I got to run my first test of the bridle a couple weeks ago when we took Kestrel out for a weekend at anchor.  Most everything went as planned except, as mentioned above, I didn’t leave enough slack in the chafe guard at the V and will have to re-secure it.  The deployment process is simple and goes like this:

• Drop and set anchor as you would normally.
• Let out the appropriate scope less about 20 ft.
• Feed the thimble end of the bridle without the pendent over the bow tail, through the forward end of the anchor roller bail, and back to a place along the rode between the anchor roller and the windlass that is comfortably within reach.
• Make the pendent fast to the rode using a prusik knot and attach the pendent to the bridle thimble using the shackle.
• Attach the eyes of the bridle arms to the bow cleats making sure the arms are on the outside of the bow rail.
• Let out rode slowly to pass the pendent and thimble back through the anchor roller bail. 
• Let out more rode until the bridle takes the strain off of the rode and there is slack in the rode.

To retrieve the bridle, simply reverse the deployment steps.  In my first use of the bridle, getting the prusik knot off the rode was a snap, no binding at all.  Overall I’m happy with the results of the build and how it behaved in use.  Before the bridle, there was noise enough coming from the anchor roller to be noticeable which means there was likely chafing happening.  With the bridle, the system was quiet.

This was a fun project to build in the warmth of the house at the kitchen table last winter.  If you have the time and affinity to working with rope, give it a shot.

You may also like...

Solar charging system post #1 – panel mounting.

April 28, 2020

 by Terry · Published April 28, 2020 · Last modified April 29, 2020

Solar Charging System Post #2 – Measuring for the Solar Panel Arch

May 6, 2020

 by Terry · Published May 6, 2020

Solar Charging System Post #3 – Charging System Design

May 13, 2020

 by Terry · Published May 13, 2020

5 Responses

• Pingbacks 0

Planning on making this same setup, so, thank you very much for passing along this valuable information!

One slight difference I’m interested in your thoughts on is if it would be simpler and still function as well, to have a long soft shackle for the pendant, thus eliminating the need for a SS shackle and also making the attachment a bit quicker…

Matt, Thanks for the comment. I didn’t think about a soft shackle there as I pretty much just copied the Manus design. I don’t see why you couldn’t get it to work as long as you put the chafe guard on the dyneema that was going to connect to the rode. Although, thinking about it a little more, the original setup might provide some redundancy should one leg fail. I feel like the prusik knot would stay attached still by friction even if only attached on one side. I could be wrong though. Terry

Thanks for the research you did on this one. How much of the Amsteel did you wind up using? What is the finished length? I’m about to make a Prusik pendant out of 6mm amsteel because that’s what I have. The bury would have to be longer for the larger diameter line, of course.

Renee, I didn’t take measurements when I built the bridle, but I looked back and it appears I ordered 10′ of the 3/16 Amsteel to make sure I had enough. I went down to the garage just now and measured that I have 5′ left, so I used 5′. The finished length is probably about 4′ taking into account the eye splices. I used about 2′ of the anti-chafing sleave but should have added a few inches to that. Terry

Thanks for that information! I have 10’ of amsteel left over from other projects, and am going to make up a back-up snubber.

Once I get to work, I’m sure I’ll come to similar conclusions about working length. It helps to have that sanity check!

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

• Next story  Ayuda!
• Previous story  Solar Charging System Post #4 – Installation

Recent Posts

• Hull Cleaning
• St Mary’s Maryland
• A Case for a Composting Toilet – 3 Season Update at Bottom of Post
• October 2023
• February 2023
• October 2021
• January 2020
• December 2019

Contact Form

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

Anchor Bridle

• Thread starter Cat 310 #1 in GA
• Start date Dec 15, 2022
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina 310

Cat 310 #1 in GA

Wondering what people use for an anchor bridle for the 310 with all chain anchoring? I have a one-piece Y shaped braided bridle that is 5 ft long with a mantus chain hook that I have used for a few years with good success. It is 5 ft long because that is the length that Jesse recommended based upon his experience. Have been anchored in 40 knot winds with no problems. Just wondering if the bridle shouldn't be longer than 5 ft to provide more stretch and in case we get caught in winds >40 knots? Have seen commercially available bridles from 14-24 ft in length and even longer than that. Having a bridle almost as long as the boat does not seem to make sense to me and sounds unwieldy to handle when setting and retrieving. Maybe this is just a solution looking for a problem?  

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

Will Gilmore

Note that JS's chart does not mention all chain anchoring. That is one of the advantages to chain. It has its own kind of stretch as it lifts with the waves and wind off the bottom, softening the pull. If you are concerned for a big blow, you could think about adding a kellet and/or paying out more scope. 4:1 chain should be good for most conditions, but 5:1 scope should allow you to sleep like a land lubber. -Will  

What is Ideal Snubber Size? - Practical Sailor

Snubber Diameter for Larger Sailboats - Practical Sailor

Adjustable Snubber Bridle and Chain Hook - Practical Sailor

Is an Anchor Snubber Line really Necessary?

A Different Approach to the Catamaran Bridle - Practical Sailor

Hello Below

Similar to the above with all 5/16" chain, I use the small Mantus on our 33' boat; but, decided that the Mantus chain hook was just to darn ungainly making it potentially dangerous for our use. I replaced it with the Mantus Snubber Pendant and connect it to the bridle thimble with a 3/8" dyneema soft shackle. If ever needed I will cut the soft shackle and retrieve the bridle much quicker than trying to take the chain hook off.  

Hello Below said: Similar to the above with all 5/16" chain, I use the small Mantus on our 33' boat; but, decided that the Mantus chain hook was just to darn ungainly making it potentially dangerous for our use. I replaced it with the Mantus Snubber Pendant and connect it to the bridle thimble with a 3/8" dyneema soft shackle. If ever needed I will cut the soft shackle and retrieve the bridle much quicker than trying to take the chain hook off. Click to expand

Mantus Snubber Pendant - Pendant Line | Mantus Marine

Hello Below said: If ever needed I will cut the soft shackle Click to expand

We bought a Davis Shockle snubber that works really well  

Thanks all, I just ordered a bridle from 48 North that was on sale and more reasonably priced that the mantus version. I have a second mantus chain hook that I will attach to this. Will still use my 5 ft long bridle since it is so easy to use but this 18 ft long bridle will be handy if the winds pick up beyond 20 or 25 knots. Anchor Snubbers, Anchor Bridles, Mooring Lines | 48° North Marine bob  

Cat 310 #1 in GA said: Thanks all, I just ordered a bridle from 48 North that was on sale and more reasonably priced that the mantus version. I have a second mantus chain hook that I will attach to this. Will still use my 5 ft long bridle since it is so easy to use but this 18 ft long bridle will be handy if the winds pick up beyond 20 or 25 knots. Anchor Snubbers, Anchor Bridles, Mooring Lines | 48° North Marine bob Click to expand

The Devil is in the Details. Cost of a 26' Bridle, 5/8ths 3 strand line designed for a 30-40ft boat. Mantus through Fisheries $204 appears to be free shipping 48ºNorth Marine. $200 shipping $29... I love to see a NW company engaged in the marine marketing business. They have been engaged since 2018 and appear to have a focused business plan providing a USA made product at a fair price. You may be able to get more variety of items, i.e. shorter lengths or smaller diameter lines. Delivered costs appear to be pretty close when doing an Apple to Apple comparison. It appears to be a skipper's choice (as always). I would encourage you to get at a minimum 5/8 3 strand. It has a Rope Breaking Strength 12,200 lb. Check the hardware that comes with the bridle to assure it has adequate strength. I note that the 48º North product comes with a 1/2" SS shackle. Is the pin captured? If not get a couple replacements. You will be dropping the pin overboard one night when you are attaching the bridle. It will not be the time to chastise your failure to have a spare. You may also consider a soft shackle made of dyneema, as a back up when the shackle chooses to go swimming.  

If saving money is the goal, I would encourage you to learn the seaman's art of ropes. Learn to buy rope in bulk at warehouse pricing. Sometimes buying cut ends in the over cut bin are half price or less. Same rope just in a length the seller can not retail. Then make your own splice. Whipped ends, or eye loop to the desired length. These skills last a lifetime. You'll be able to help many a new boater and pass along this skill as it has traditionally been done sailor to sailor drinking Rum or Beer.  

I've never understood the desire for a bridle if they aren't tying up to a mooring or have a bowsprit. With my spring off to one side of the bow in a chock, the boat swings a bit off center and therefore has less tendency to sail. You can Also set up a lee for boarding the boat from the dinghy, or the reverse. We used a 25 to 35' snub, with a thimble and eye splice, and a suitable galvanized chain hook. Nothing fancy, but with unlimited strength in terms of the weight of my boat in anything less than hurricane strength winds and a good 6' sea. After that, there are no set rules. Mine is as many anchors as I have, deployed.  

tfox2069 said: I really like that 48 North lets you pick from a wide range of lengths for your bridle. The prices are excellent too. Thanks for posting. I wasn't aware of them. Click to expand

2 OLD PIRATES

• Boat length <12m: 16mm line;
• Boat length 12-16m: 20mm line;
• Boat length 16-20m: 25mm line;
• The Effective Depth
• Your electronic depth sounder displays the depth between the transducer and seabed, unless you've entered offsets such that it shows either the depth below the keel, or the full depth from the surface.
• Is your depth sounder display giving you depth below transducer, keel or actual depth?
• To this latter depth you'll need to add the height of the bow roller above the surface to get the effective depth. Why? Well, it's from the bow roller that you'll measure the length of anchor chain to be deployed.

Attachments

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

Probably more information than you ever wanted to know about anchor snubbers and bridles

Anchor Snubber & Bridle Size Calculator

The anchor snubber and bridle size calculator below is designed to provide directional estimates for optimal snubber line diameter and length for 3-strand nylon. The results indicate the diameter and length of line required to absorb the kinetic energy of the boat for the weight and speed provided.

• The top-half of the cell represents the load imposed as a percentage of the rope's minimum break strength. If the value is higher than the WLL you entered, this portion of the cell will be red.
• The lower-half of the cell represents the deceleration/acceleration of the boat as the snubber or bridle absorbs and releases the energy. The lower the value, the gentler the motion; the higher the value the more uncomfortable the motion. Green denotes gentle motion, yellow is uncomfortable and red is approaching snatch loads.
• Remember, the results reflect the snubber or bridle requirement for the boat speed entered - which should be worst-case. If the table states 30 feet or 10 meters is needed, that's for worst-case. Obviously, fair weather will not require a full 30'/10m deployment.
• Catamaran's should size up in diameter and length. See our Catamaran Anchor Bridles page for details.

The calculator uses the formula for kinetic energy, KE = 1/2 Mass X Velocity 2 , to calculate the energy generated by the boat.

The capacity of the snubber or bridle to absorb the kinetic energy of the boat is calculated using the elastic potential energy formula PE = 1/2 kx 2 where k is the spring constant and x is the displacement. The spring constant is calculated using Hook's law k = F/x, where F is the force needed to extend the spring and x is the displacement length. We use 10% elongation at 20% minimum break strength to determine displacement.

The following deductions in strength are built into the calculator: 1. When wet, nylon's strength is reduced ~12% 2. Splicing reduces nylon's strength ~10% 3. Hard (or thimbled) eye reduces nylon's strength ~20%

Calculator Values

Snubber type.

Single line snubber or double-line bridle.

Boat Length (ft or m)

Boat length overall (LOA) is used in the Drew Frye calculation.

Boat Weight (lbs or kgs)

Weight of vessel fully loaded: fuel, water, gear, black water, crew, etc

Boat Speed @ Anchor (knots)

This is the boat's speed at anchor, not wind speed . To calculate the kinetic energy of the boat, the speed in knots is required. A boat's speed at anchor is difficult to measure but here are some generally accepted values used in various articles:

• .5 knots - lunch hook, fair weather boating and/or well protected anchorages (light wind)
• 1 knot - working hook, boaters venturing out in less than ideal conditions, cruisers who are likely to get caught in a stiff blow (medium - heavy wind)
• 1.5 knots - storm conditions (approximating gale force)
• 2 knots - violent storm (gale force 10 / hurricane)

Working Load Limit % (WLL)

The generally accepted range for the WLL% of 3-strand nylon rope is 10% - 20%. The calculator uses 12% as the default. Please feel free to use your own value.

Terms of Use

In using this calculator, you, the user, understands and accepts the limitations of the information provided:

• The results are directional estimates based on the values you provide;
• The result is not an engineered solution;
• The calculator does not account for other forces that might be applicable or present (e.g. veering (yaw), pitch, waves, fetch, tidal current, rolling, rafting with other boats, etc)
• The default value for "Speed at Anchor" is based on generally accepted use in publications and is not backed by actual scientific studies and you understand the value can be changed to a value you believe is more accurate;
• The default value for Working Load Limit (WLL) is 12%. It's generally accepted the WLL for 3-strand nylon is 10% - 20% of the minimum break strength depending on the safety factor. Again, the value can be changed by you to a value that you deem to be more accurate.
• The values for rope tensile strength used in the calculations are based on an average of values published by several manufacturers and/or the American Cordage Institute;
• Snubbers and bridles may vary in design and the quality of construction and raw materials used in them may vary from manufacturer-to-manufacturer. This calculator assumes the manufacturer's design is sound, and the construction and materials used are of sufficient quality to support the product's intended purpose(s);
• The calculations and subsequent results assume the rope is new and has not been altered or damaged.

Limits of Liability

To the maximum extent permitted by applicable law, snubberhead.com and 48 Degrees North, LLC shall not be liable for any direct, indirect, incidental, special, consequential or punitive damages, loss of vessel(s), property damage or personal injury to the user or others, whether incurred directly or indirectly, from the use of the calculator service. THE AGGREGATE MAXIMUM LIABILITY OF SNUBBERHEAD.COM AND 48 DEGREES NORTH, LLC ENTITIES SHALL NOT EXCEED TEN U.S. DOLLARS ($10.00 USD) FOR ANY CLAIM. The limitation shall apply to any liability, whether based on warranty, contract, statute, tort - including negligence - or otherwise, and whether or not snubberhead.com and 48 Degrees North, LLC have been informed of the possibility of any such damage and, and even if a remedy is set forth herein is found to have failed.

Swivels are used to attach an anchor to the chain with the purpose of preventing chain twisting as the boat moves around in the anchorage.  Swivels also help the anchor come up in the correct orientation into the bow roller on retrieval.

• In the practical sense swivels are often unnecessary unless you intend to anchor for a long time in one spot, further twist usually gets undone as the chain is retrieved with the windlass. If anchored in one spot for an extended period or if designing a mooring system swivels do solve a problem.
• Swivels are generally considered to be the weakest link between your anchor and the boat.

One issue is swivels often fit directly into the shank and if so can be side loaded (when the anchor is stuck in rocks for example) and fail at much lower loads than the SWL they are rated for. To solve this attach a shackle or a shackle with some chain to the anchor first and then the swivel this will prevent the above mentioned problem with side loading. Further it is often hard to size a swivel for to match the strength of the HI TEST chain, though some well-designed products are available on the market.

One should pay attention to the SWL (safe working load) rating on the swivel as compared to the chain.

Snubbers/Bridles:

Why Use an Anchor Bridle/Snubber System?

• Bridle takes the strain of the chain rode, thus offloading the gypsy on the windlass and reduces the stress on the windlass deck joint.
• Allow the load to be taken by the cleats that are designed for high loads
• Reduces the wear on the boat, with all the load on the cleats via the bridle, there is no noise, no chain jerking and snagging on the foredeck.
• If the bridle is long enough/and or has enough stretch it can absorb the shock loads from waves and wind gusts
• With the long bridle the chain is lowered below the waterline and offers better effective scope and additional shock absorption
• It has been suggested by some that when using all chain rode the catenary effect from the sagging chain from its weight will provide sufficient shock absorption. While this might be true for large ships, on average size cruising vessel the catenary effect from the chain does not provide any significant shock absorption, one only has to look at the chain shape under water in a 25 knot breeze to see that the catenary effect is no longer a factor because the chain is oriented in a straight line.

So more simply said the bridle ensures that you anchor has the highest chance of staying put and your boat staying intact.

There are different ways of attaching the bridle to your chain:

Mantus hook

• The Mantus Chain Hook , or chain grabber securely latches to the chain even when chain is unloaded, making it much safer than standard chain hooks that often fall off.
• The Mantus Chain Hook has no moving parts, thus can withstand harsh marine environment and is easy to use
• The chain grabber is safe, designed to be as strong as high test chain
• Available in 316L Stainless Steel (electro-polished) and Hot Dipped Galvanized carbon steel

Mantus Bridle Line Sizing Recommendations:

The role of the bridle/snubber system is to be able to absorb the shock loads by stretching and yet be strong enough not to fail when exposed to these high loads conditions.  Thus we make sizing recommendations keeping this in mind.

Effort should be made to protect snubber/bridle line from chafe and inspect it for wear regularly.

Review Cart

No products in the cart.

Please log in to access the affiliate area.

Username or Email Address

Remember Me

We use cookies to improve your browsing experience.

And dolphins make us happy. Find out more about our cookies policy here .

The Best Boat Rentals in Tver Oblast

Browse, book, and get out onto the water with local captains and boat owners., our favorite boat rentals in tver oblast.

• Boat Rentals

Tver Oblast

Sailing Yacht Korsar

Charter Moskvich Passenger Boat in Moscow, Russia

Russian river cruise

Charter a Passenger Boat in Moscow, Russia

Charter Capital Passenger Boat in Moscow, Russia

Charter Ivan Kalita Passenger Boat in Moscow, Russia

Charter 88' Passenger Boat in Moscow, Russia

Regatta yacht rental in Moskva

Suggested searches, types of boats popular in tver oblast.

From mid-size to mega yachts, these luxury boats are great for groups and celebrations

$175-$5,460

Set sail with these traditional wind-powered boats

All the comforts of home out on the water, for multi-day boat trips

Top Boat Rental Locations in Russia

Moscow , Moscow

Gelendzhik , Krasnodar Krai

Saint Petersburg , Russia

Okrug Petrovskiy , Saint Petersburg

Irkutsk , Irkutsk Oblast

Bolshoy Sochi , Krasnodar Krai

How To Book on Getmyboat

Find the right listing for you and your crew, with options for boat types, group size, captained or self-charter, and lots more.

Inquire & Book

Found one you like? Send a rental inquiry with your preferred trip details, and you’ll receive an offer from your captain to book.

Coordinate a pick-up place and time, meet your boat captain, and get out onto the water!

Dive into Our Journal

August 01, 2023

10 Boating Adventures of a Lifetime

Read Article

November 23, 2022

Eco-Friendly Tips for Boating Sustainably

October 03, 2022

Getmyboat's Guides to the World of Boating

April 14, 2022

The Best Meals & Snacks for a Boat Day

December 11, 2020

Tips for Boating with your Dog - Getmyboat

December 29, 2019

How to Rent a Boat with Getmyboat

• About Getmyboat
• Media Inquiries
• Terms of Use
• Privacy Policy
• Cookies Policy
• Accessibility Statement
• Member Interface Agreement
• How It Works
• Mobile Apps

Experiences

• Jet Ski Rental
• Fishing Charters
• Houseboat Rental
• Pontoon Rental
• Yacht Rental
• Sailboat Rental
• Bachelorette Party Boat Rental
• Party Boat Rentals
• Company News
• Experiences Guide
• Destinations
• Tips for Renters and Owners

Popular Destinations

• Lake Lanier
• Lake Travis
• Newport Beach
• Lake Norman

24/7 Live Support

• Help & FAQs
• +1 818 927 2148
• [email protected]

Real reviews from happy Getmyboaters.

4.9 out of 5! 500,000 + reviews

• EN ES FR JA PT