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Travel Tips to Kabardino-Balkaria: More than Mt. Elbrus!

If you’ve traveled to the North Caucasus before, there is a good chance you’ve already been to Kabardino-Balkaria, and you didn’t even know it!  Kabardino-Balkaria lies in the center of the North Caucasus region, is home to Mt. Elbrus, but more than that is a treasure chest of travel possibilities.  Here is our guide to traveling through the republic of Kabardino-Balkaria, or 9 travel tips to this beautiful land:

1. How do I get there?

Kabardino-Balkaria hosts a large number of both foreign and Russian travelers every year, and has an improving infrastructure able to handle the incoming masses.  Let’s start with the obvious.  You might be a mountain climber or skier coming to enjoy the slopes of Mt. Elbrus.  That means you’re likely arriving on an airplane to Russia.  Here are your travel options:

A. Plane – We advise you fly into the Mineralni Vodi (MRV) airport in the Stavropol Region, which is about 45 minutes from the border of Kabardino-Balkaria.  MRV is the largest airport in the North Caucasus, and has daily direct flights to and from all 3 airpots in Moscow (SVO, DME, and VKO), direct flights from St. Petersburg, and several international flight routes as well, including from Istanbul, Dubai, Greece, Tel Aviv, and Bishkek.  The MRV airport has a growing infrastructure and is the most obvious choice to fly into if going to Elbrus.  From MRV, it’s a 2 hr. drive to Nalchik, and a 3.5 hr. drive to Mt. Elbrus.

That being said, the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria, Nalchik (NAL), also has a small regional airport with a daily flight to/from Moscow as well as weekly flights to Istanbul. As is to be expected in most smaller, regional airports around Russia, the service standard at a small airport like this will be minimal.  As a result, we recommend you flying in and out of MRV if able.  It’s a 2 hr. drive to Elbrus from Nalchik.  You can also fly into other regional airports which are 2 hrs. from Nalchik, such as OGZ in North Ossetia (Vladikavkaz) or IGT in Ingushetia (Magas).

B.  Car/Public Transport – If you have a car, are using a taxi, or are hitch-hiking your way to Kabardino-Balkaria, the region is accessible by a variety of roads and vehicles.  A major Russian federal highway E50 runs through Pyatigorsk into Kabardino-Balkaria, and can take you towards Mt. Elbrus, Nalchik, and deeper into the North Caucasus.  There are daily mini-buses, or “marshrutkas”, that travel to Nalchik from Pyatigorsk, Vladikavkaz, Grozny, and Magas, if you’re coming from a neighboring republic.  From the main Nalchik bus station, there is a marshrutka that goes to Terskol (i.e. Mt. Elbrus) daily around 12:30 pm; for that matter,  marshrutkas run daily into every valley of this beautiful republic.  For the seasoned international traveler, you can drive from the country of Georgia up the famed “Georgian Military Highway” through the heart of the Caucasus Mountains, cross the border into Russia at the “Verkhni Lars” border stop, and be in Nalchik in about 2.5 hours as well. 

Anyone traveling on their own should download the “Yandex” taxi app, which is Russia’s version of Uber, and has a very user-friendly app with affordable prices.  In smaller villages/towns where Yandex’s service doesn’t reach, just ask a local and they’ll direct you to a friend or relative who can taxi you where you need to go!

C.  Train – Kabardino-Balkaria is also very accessible by the famous cross-country Russian train system if that’s your preferred method of travel.  Almost all trains to the North Caucasus pass through Mineralni Vodi in the Stavropol region to the north, so make sure wherever you are coming from, Mineralni Vodi is one of the stops.  Despite Nalchik having a train station, the city is about 45 minutes from the main railway route that runs diagonal through the North Caucasus, and as a result it’s a bit convoluted to get a train directly to Nalchik.  That being said, the town Prokhladni is a regular stop on trains going to/coming from Baku, Makhachkala, Grozny, Nazran, and Vladikavkaz, so you can always hop off there and find your way by public transport or taxi.

2.  What are the best places to stay?

This list could get exhaustive, fast. 🙂  Let’s first look at an overview of the republic’s geography, followed by hotel recommendations:

A. Nalchik – This is the capital city of Kabardino-Balkaria, with a population of around 250,000.  Nalchik is growing and new, modern hotels are being built regularly.  Here are some of our recommendations:

-Modern and comfortable:  Azimut , Butik Otel

-Budget with less frills:  Hotel Rossia , Korona

You could comfortably spend a week in Nalchik, while doing day trips into Kabardino-Balkaria’s beautiful mountain valleys.

B.  Baksan Valley – This is the most traveled road in Kabardino-Balkaria, the road to Mt. Elbrus.  If you have questions about its safety because of travel warnings, please see our detailed blog here of the drive to erase any doubts or fears.  Needless to say, because of the draw of Mt. Elbrus, there are a huge variety of lodging options at the end of this valley, from 4-star to mid-range to budget to hostel.  Here are just a few we’ll recommend from our experience:

-Modern and comfortable 4-star-ish:  Azau Star , Kristall 139

-Budget with less frills 3-star-ish:   Laguna , Povorot

If you’re a mountain climber with your sites set on the summit of Elbrus, you’ll have to spend at least 3-4 nights at Elbrus’s famous base camp at 13,000 feet.  The “barrel huts” are not easy to book directly with, and we highly recommend you do your climb (and hence, have your bookings handled) through a trusted climbing company.  Here are two shelters at base camp we recommend:

-Modern and comfortable:  Leaprus

-Budget with less frills:  Heart of Elbrus Lodge

If you’re interested in climbing Mt. Elbrus and staying in these barrel huts, click  here  to see our climbing itineraries, pricing, and group dates.

C.  Chegem Valley – Chegem Valley is the adjacent valley to Elbrus’s Baksan Valley, and is famous for its beautiful waterfalls as well as being Russia’s top paragliding location.  The “ Paradrome ” has modest accommodations for those wanting to get to know this beautiful valley for a longer period of time.

D.  Upper Balkaria, or Cherek Valley – This is another beautiful mountain gorge not too far from Nalchik.  There is an authentic lodging complex in Upper Balkaria called Tau-El, with amazing local food for meals as well.

E.  Border Zone lodging – Several of Kabardino-Balkaria’s mountain gorges run into the border zone with neighboring country Georgia, i.e. an area that foreigners cannot enter without a special permit from the local government (often taking 2 months to receive).  There is a famous mountaineering lodge in Bezengi Valley, where several generations of Russian mountain climbers have honed their craft in the Caucasus Mountains.  Perpendicular to Baksan Valley (about 25 minutes from the base of Mt. Elbrus) is Adyr-Suu Valley, where there is a lodge for back-country skiers to stay, while trying their hands (and feet!) on the untouched snow of that valley.  Both these valleys require border permits for foreigners, but are possible to access for the more adventurous!

3.  Top cities to visit?

Most locals would agree that Nalchik is the main city of significance to visit in Kabardino-Balkaria, but let’s be honest, even more would say, “Just go to the mountains!”  Tirnauz is the capital of the Elbrus district, and is an interesting town to spend some time in, with its unique location in the mountains and place in Soviet history as a once-booming mining town.  The main thing to consider in visiting Nalchik and other cities in the lowlands, is the chance to experience Kabardian culture and food.  Whereas the deeper you go into the valleys, the more you’ll encounter Balkar culture and food.

4.  Best local foods to try?

There are 3 types of food that come to mind, when spending time in Kabardino-Balkaria:

A. Khychiny – This is one of the staple national dishes of the Balkar people, and what you’ll inevitably be served if guests of local Balkars.  It’s a thin buttery flat bread, sometimes cooked with fillings of cottage cheese, fresh greens, or potatoes.  It is often slathered in butter, but wow is that some tasty greasy goodness! 🙂

B.  Shashlik – Shashlik is a MUST for any visit anywhere in the North Caucasus!  Most people would agree that it’s the national food of the entire region.  Shashlik is meat shish kabobs; while pork and turkey can be found in some parts of the Caucasus, lamb or chicken are the preferred shashlik meats of choice in Kabardino-Balkaria. 

C.  Soup – No matter where you are in Russia, you’re sure to find a local soup that people love.  Kabardino-Balkaria is no different.  Especially in the winter months in the mountain valleys, there’s nothing better than to come inside from the cold weather and warm your body up to a bowl of hearty Caucasus soup.  Whether Georgian kharcho or local Balkar lakhman, make sure to try your hand at one of these soups with a side of fresh baked bread/lavash!

5.  Top Hole-In-The-Wall restaurants:

Of course, for a republic of this size, we’re bound to leave at least a few great local joints off our list, but here are a few to get you started. ***Note:  Restaurants in the North Caucasus are much better known for their food than their service, so prepare for tasty food, but manage your expectations about service:

-Elbrus – Kogutai Restaurant at Mt. Cheget – While this isn’t a hole-in-the-wall restaurant per se, it’s one of many to choose from in the Cheget tourist village, and we have found them to provide consistently good food and service.  Kogutai has a nice interior, and maybe most important, an English-language menu with good pictures. 🙂  There also is a nice outdoor patio with fantastic views of the surrounding mountains.

-Nalchik #1 – Tameris Restaurant – This is a cafe with a relaxed atmosphere in the capital Nalchik.  Local tour company Elbrus Elevation has taken foreign groups there on multiple occasions and always had good experiences.  Address is ul. Kuliyeva 3. 

-Nalchik #2 – Cafe-Bar Oasis – You have to know where this restaurant is to find it, but once inside, you won’t regret it!  There is a unique cafeteria-style ordering process, that includes several dishes being cooked on the spot once ordered.  You can sample local Kabardian dishes here.  The seating area is very modern and a pleasant atmosphere to have a meal in.  Address is ul. Kuliyeva 2. 

-Upper Balkaria – Tau-El Restaurant – This is the restaurant part of the Tau-El Tourist Complex in Upper Balkaria.  Whether spending the night or just passing through, make sure to stop here for a meal!

6.  Must-See Sites

This republic is so chock full of “must-see” destinations, it’s impossible to narrow the list down.  Here are just a few suggestions to get you started: (***Mt. Elbrus is a no-brainer and we’re assuming that’s on your list)

A. El-Tyubu and Paradrome – This is an amazing area towards the end of Chegem Valley.  Many tourists visit the famous Chegem Waterfalls and don’t drive any further down this gorge, which really is a shame.  El-Tyubu is a picturesque Balkar village with several historical sites to see, including some ancient mausoleums.  The real gem of the area, though, is the Paradrome , which is Russia’s premier paragliding destination.  The combination of the scenic surrounding mountains and constant winds produces almost daily conditions to sail through the beautiful Caucasus sky.  Highly recommend!

B.  Upper Balkaria – Also known as Cherek Valley, the entire drive to the actual village of Upper Balkaria is one big destination.  First, you can spend time at the 3 consecutive “ Blue Lakes ”, one of which is one of Russia’s deepest lakes with an underground spring.  Then, the drive itself becomes an adventure, as you pass by steep rock walls with a huge drop-off on the other side.  If you’re able to walk this part of the road, that is a bonus!  Once you’ve made your way through the valley walls, the region opens up into a beautiful panoramic view.  Many years ago, there were multiple villages in this region, but they’ve since been condensed into one main village.  You can see some of the ancient Balkar towers that their ancestors used to live in as well.

C.  Djili-Suu – Although hard to pronounce and not easy to get to, Djili-Suu is one of those places in the North Caucasus that people rave about that you “have to” visit.  It’s actually on the North side of Mt. Elbrus, and more accessible from the Mineral Waters region (2 hrs. from Kislovodsk).  The base camp for Elbrus climbers summiting the mountain from the North side is at Djili-Suu.  This area is famous in Russia for its numerous natural healing springs, as well as unique climate conditions that make for beneficial, long holidays for seeking a respite from their daily grind.  There are wide swaths of land available for camping, with probably the most unrivaled views of Mt. Elbrus in the North Caucasus.  Make sure to check this out!

7.  Off-the-beaten path destinations

A. King’s Waterfalls (Tsarskie), or Gedmisht – Probably the valley in Kabardino-Balkaria with the least amount of hype is the Malka Valley, which is the northernmost valley and mainly runs through the Kabardian lowlands.  At the point where the villages end, though (Khabas), the asphalt turns into dirt and the hills start to rise, culminating with the incredible King’s Waterfalls, or as one friend put it, Avatar Waterfalls.  These stunning waterfalls are best visited in the early summer, when everything is lush green and the water flow is strong, with many streams of water flowing down the earth’s surface.  The different colors are incredible and it’s hard to look away.  Once you’ve enjoyed the waterfalls, enjoy a meal of shashlik at one of the nearby lunch huts.  Having an off-road vehicle is ideal to visit these falls, but worth the time and effort!

B.  One-seater chair lift at Elbrus – As the infrastructure at Mt. Elbrus has modernized, some of the more “authentic” experiences have gone to the way-side.  This is one experience still available, though!  From the 2nd (11,000 ft.) to 3rd level (12,500 ft.) of Mt. Elbrus (whether skiing, going to base camp, or just touring), there is a single-seater chair lift for 100 rubles each way (less than $2).  This is an amazing experience if you have the time.  It’s 8-10 minutes each way, and a surreal experience of the majestic Caucasus mountain range surrounding you, skiers silently passing you by underneath, and in general enjoying the silent expanse of nature all around.  The chair lifts are from the Soviet times and so it feels like something from a different era.  For mountain climbers, the newer group cable car gives better access to most of base camp, but several huts are pretty close to this chair lift, so it still may be a good option for you.

C.  Abandoned Mines above Tirnauz – Tirnauz is about 1 hr. from Mt. Elbrus, and a town everyone drives through to and from the mountain.  Although today it looks old and half-abandoned, it was a booming mining town in the 20th century.  About a 45-minute drive above the city with an off-road vehicle, you can see the remains of the mining operations.  Learning about this history combined with the breath-taking views of the Baksan Valley and even into Georgia, you’ll wonder why more people aren’t visiting this place.  This is a great spot to see eagles soaring in the sky, as well as admire the Soviet city plan of Tirnauz from above.

8.  What do I need border zone passes to visit?

In Russia, any area within 5-10 km of a neighboring country, without a clearly delineated border (i.e. in the mountains) is considered a special border zone, and patrolled by Russian border guards.  This area IS accessible to all Russian citizens with their passports, but is NOT legally accessible to foreign citizens UNLESS you have a special permit from the FSB (Federal Security Bureau).  These permits are accessible, either through a tour operator or local friend, but require you to submit your application 45-60 days in advance.

Areas in Kabardino-Balkaria that are worth a visit if you have a border zone pass:

A.  Bezengi Wall – This is at the end of the Bezengi Valley, and holds a place of lore among Russian mountain climbers.  Many mountain guides go through training in this valley.  Five of the Caucasus Mountain’ range’s highest seven peaks are a part of the Bezengi Wall, so you can imagine the draw it has for climbers. There are great areas for trekking and camping in this area. 

B.  Adyr-Suu Gorge – This remote valley runs perpendicular to Baksan Valley and is about 25 minutes from the base of Mt. Elbrus.  It’s marked at the entrance by a relic of the past, a car lift from Soviet days that auto-cranks your car (and you) about 50 meters up the mountain.  After 45-60 minutes of driving on gravel road, the gorge opens up into a flat valley with a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains.  The Adyr-Suu Alpine Lodge is at the end of this valley and where back-country skiers base out of during the acclimatization phase of their Mt. Elbrus ski tours.  This is truly a place where you can experience untouched powder!

C.  Mt. Cheget (Elbrus) – Cheget is a neighboring mountain to Mt. Elbrus and where many climbers will acclimatize, both at its base and while doing some hikes.  It also is famous in Russia for its free-ride terrain for more experienced skiers.  Standard access to the chair lifts and mountain are available to all (i.e. mountain climbers don’t need to worry about accidentally crossing into the zone), but anyone wanting to summit the peak of Cheget OR visit the beautiful Cheget Lake needs a border permit. 

Foreigners violating the border zone areas is considered a serious offense in Russia; make sure to do your due diligence if wanting to visit one of these areas!  We highly recommend using a local tour operator and always traveling with a local person if visiting one of these areas.

9.  Any cultural “do’s” or “don’t’s” to be aware of

Kabardino-Balkaria is a fascinating republic with a combination of traditional and modern society.  The more you interact with local people, the more you’ll see a mixture of Muslim faith, post-Soviet mentality, and ancient local traditions all wrapped together.   

Kabardians mainly live in the lowlands (Nalchik, Baksan, and lowland villages), while Balkars primarily live in the mountain valleys (Elbrus, Chegem, Upper Balkaria, etc.).  There is a large population of Russians in the region as well.  Foreigners visit every area of the region regularly, and so local people are used to and will welcome your presence.

Come with an open mind to learn about these peoples, their traditions, and their land.  You won’t regret your trip to Kabardino-Balkaria!

***Want to learn more?  Here are several self-published resources from the podcast “ CaucasTalk ” related to Kabardino-Balkaria:

– Travel Tips to Kabardino-Balkaria (audio version of this blog)

– History of Mt. Elbrus (Part 1)

– History of Mt. Elbrus (Part 2)

– Interview with Local Elbrus guide

– Climbing Elbrus: Interview with American guide

– Who are the Kabardians? (Part 1)

– Who are the Kabardians? (Part 2)

– Skiing in the North Caucasus (Elbrus and more)

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• Is it Safe to Travel to the Caucasus in 2024?
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Flying Boats Were Once the Luxury Liners of the Air

Flying boats opened up travel destinations around the world—then they went to war

Twilight glimmered in the western sky as the large aircraft began its descent to the Tagus River in Lisbon, Portugal. As it flew into view, the shores erupted in a cacophony of cheers, gun blasts, and tolling church bells. The euphoria reached a crescendo when the unusual craft finally landed on the water and glided to a stop.

On that lovely evening—May 27, 1919—an ambitious and daring feat had been achieved. The U.S. Navy’s Curtiss NC-4, a massive “flying boat” crafted by pioneering designer Glenn Curtiss, became the first airplane to cross the Atlantic Ocean, making a stop in the Azores before setting down in the river on the European continent.

“We are safely across the pond. The job is finished!” wrote Lieutenant Commander Albert C. Read, captain of the historic flight, in a message to his superior officers.

Front page headlines dominated newspapers across the United States and around the world. “Twentieth century transportation has reached a new pinnacle, and the United States navy has led the way,” raved the Associated Press. 

The Curtiss NC-4—in the collection of the National Air and Space Museum and on loan to the National Naval Aviation Museum in Pensacola, Florida—led the way for the era of the flying boat. At the time, the lack of airports with hard surfaces in the world’s major destinations meant overseas service had to be handled by airplanes that could land on water.

The flying boat—so named because the bottom of the fuselage looks like the keel of a waterborne vessel—dominated the prewar era of transoceanic flight. From the United States to South America, Europe, Pacific Islands, Asia, and beyond, this class of airplane went where others could not. It had the range, capacity, and ability to reach faraway, exotic locales that were inaccessible to most other aircraft of the day. The world’s militaries likewise embraced the adaptable aircraft, using it to patrol the world’s oceans and rescue downed fliers. 

Then, flying boats all but disappeared. Larger land-based aircraft capable of carrying more passengers and cargo replaced it and transformed the way the world traveled. 

Now it seems the flying boat is on the verge of a comeback, as countries seek them for missions as diverse as fighting fires to ferrying tourists to remote islands. Flying boat enthusiasts worldwide dare to wonder if they will see the magnificent machines soar and sail once again.

In the lap of luxury

At its zenith, traveling on a commercial flying boat was like sailing on the  Queen Mary 2 . Private sleeping rooms, silver dining service, chef-prepared meals, and white-gloved waiters were all part of the upscale treatment passengers could expect on these ocean liners of the sky. 

The cost? In 1940, a one-way ticket from San Francisco to Hong Kong was $760—about $15,000 today. The main advantage? The trip took days by flying boat versus weeks by passenger ship.

The aerial luxury afforded by flying boats was best epitomized by Pan American Airways. In a symbolic nod to the majestic sailing ships that plied the oceans in the 19th century, the airline’s flying boats were named “Clippers” by the company’s cofounder. The comparison did not stop there.

“That was exactly what Juan Trippe, the founder of Pan Am wanted,” says Bob van der Linden, a National Air and Space Museum curator who specializes in air transportation and special purpose aircraft. “He knew his customers were the equivalent of first-class passengers onboard a high-end steamship. They expected the best service with stewards and pursers. The airplane was operated by a captain and navigator, terms that came from the navy. If you look at the old Pan Am uniform, it’s the same as a U.S. Navy uniform, including rank insignia. They were trying to emulate ocean liners.”

In the 1920s and ’30s, flying boats came in a multitude of shapes and sizes—from small craft holding just a few people to massive airplanes with room for scores of travelers. In addition, airmail delivery was an essential part of commercial aviation at the time. Lucrative postal contracts from the federal government helped airlines reach profitability at a critical time of development while expanding routes across the Caribbean, South America, and the rest of the world.

Flying boats are a unique style of vessel. Whereas a floatplane is basically a regular airplane mounted on pontoons, the flying boat is essentially a hybrid between a ship and an airplane. It features durable wings capable of withstanding strong winds and rough seas, as well as a sturdy hull—usually V-shaped like a boat—so it can withstand the rigors of landing on choppy waves. Designing such an unusual craft required a precise balance between two very different disciplines.

“A flying boat must satisfy many of the same requirements for performance, efficiency, strength, and reliability as a landplane but, in addition, must possess some qualities of a boat in water and some qualities unique to the flying boat itself,” wrote the late Laurence K. Loftin Jr., former director of aeronautical research at NASA Langley, in his 1985 book  Quest for Performance: The Evolution of Modern Aircraft . “It must be seaworthy, maneuverable, and stable on the water and have low water and air drag. The hull must be designed with sufficient structural strength to withstand the various loads imposed by rough water in landing, taking off, and taxiing.”

In other words, a flying boat had to be sleek and rugged. Finding the proper parity between these two opposite fields of performance was crucial if a proposed design was to be successful. A miscalculation in either area could have disastrous results.  Such were the challenges faced by Pan Am as it prepared to launch transoceanic service. 

For Trippe and Charles Lindbergh, a key advisor, size was important. They wanted aircraft large enough and tough enough to handle the demands of flying over long expanses of ocean and through fluctuating weather conditions. Aeronautical engineers responded with some of the largest aircraft built in those years.

“If you’re going to fly over water, you had to do it in a flying boat in case something happens,” says van der Linden. “Also, for that kind of range you need a big airplane, which meant they needed a lot of power and a lot of fuel. You needed a really, really long takeoff run to get the airplane airborne. In those days, there were no airfields long enough to do it. Plus, they were mostly grass and dirt then, and a heavy airplane would go right through that.”

One of the earliest large models was the Sikorsky S-40—the first to get the nautical treatment by Pan Am. Known as the American Clipper, it had a wingspan of 114 feet, a gross weight of 34,000 pounds, and it could carry up to 38 passengers. The largest airplane built in the U.S. at the time, the S-40 required four powerful Pratt & Whitney Hornet radial engines to break free of the water’s drag and reach the sky. It made its first flight to the Caribbean on November 19, 1931.

Pan Am and other airlines would go on to bigger and heavier flying boats. Pan Am opened transpacific service in 1935 with the Martin M-130 (one of which was christened the China Clipper) and began transatlantic service in 1939 with the Boeing B-314, which had a wingspan of 152 feet and a gross weight of 84,000 pounds. 

With a range of 3,500 miles, the B-314 could reach Europe without refueling, and it could span the Pacific with a just few stops at islands along the way. In fact, Pan Am’s Pacific Clipper (which was briefly named the California Clipper) is considered the first commercial airliner to circumnavigate the globe. Stranded in New Zealand on December 7, 1941, the crew was forced to fly west across Asia and Africa to New York City to avoid capture by Japanese forces.

“What’s important about the flying boat is that it had range,” says van der Linden. “In the 1930s, land-based airliners could fly 400 to 600 miles, if you’re lucky. The big flying boats could go 3,000 miles or more. In the Pacific, you needed to fly a minimum of 2,400 miles, which is the distance between San Francisco and Hawaii.”

Preparing for war

As the world wound its way to war in the 1930s, militaries in many countries turned to the flying boat to meet the aviation demands of an impending two-ocean conflict. All nations with access to the sea utilized these aircraft in wartime operations. Among Axis aircraft, Germany’s Blohm & Voss BV 138 Sea Dragon was a primary long-range maritime patrol aircraft, while Japan flew the Kawanishi H8K for naval reconnaissance and bombing missions.

The island realm of Great Britain relied on the Short S.25 Sunderland for its patrol bomber needs and it served with several Commonwealth military branches. Powered by four Bristol Pegasus XVIII nine-cylinder engines, the aircraft bristled with up to 12 machine guns and could carry 2,000 pounds of bombs, mines, or depth charges for anti-submarine warfare.

Flying boats were part of the U.S. war effort from the very beginning. Ten Sikorsky JRS-1 aircraft were at Pearl Harbor when the Imperial Japanese Navy attacked. All of them survived. They were immediately pressed into service and flew many missions patrolling for Japanese submarines and searching for the enemy fleet. (One of the surviving JRS-1s is on display at the National Air and Space Museum’s Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center in Chantilly, Virginia.)

Perhaps the most iconic flying boat of World War II was the Consolidated PBY Catalina ( see “Bombs, Beer, and Black Cats” ). Affectionately called “Dumbo” by those who flew it because of its resemblance to Disney’s animated flying elephant, the large two-engine aircraft was not very nimble, but it was extremely durable and versatile. It played a crucial role for the U.S. Navy in the Atlantic and Pacific theaters as both a bomber and a search-and-rescue aircraft. The Catalina also performed reconnaissance missions.

“The PBY was in the vanguard of the fight across the Pacific,” says W. Hill Goodspeed, an author and historian for the National Naval Aviation Museum, which has two Catalinas on display—one of which has been on loan from the Smithsonian since 1973. “It was the eyes of the fleet in World War II.” 

A sky-high view proved decisive in 1942, when two spotted the Imperial Japanese Navy fleet just prior to the Battle of Midway. Early detection provided the U.S. Navy with a significant edge in that pivotal showdown early in the war. 

With more than 3,300 units built, the PBY was the leading flying boat of World War II. It was also the most effective. Catalinas destroyed upward of 40 enemy submarines and sank more ships than any other aircraft.

Other flying boats served the U.S. military during the conflict, including the Martin PBM Mariner. By 1945, it was flying more missions than the PBY Catalina. Of the 1,366 constructed, only one remains today: It is part of the collection of the National Air and Space Museum, and currently on loan to the Pima Air & Space Museum in Tucson, Arizona.

While World War II demonstrated the capabilities of flying boats, it also led to their decline. “The one thing that was holding back the development of all large airplanes in the 1930s was the lack of concrete runways,” says van der Linden. “All bets were off in World War II. We built concrete runways everywhere for the war effort. That killed the flying boat.”

Making a comeback?

Lawrence Reece is a hardcore fan of flying boats. For his aircraft restoration service, he flies around the country and beyond in search of spare parts for 80-plus-year-old PBY Catalinas. Keeping these vintage aircraft flying and floating has been his avocation and vocation for several years. Now, he is working to reintroduce the legendary airplane to meet the demands of modern travelers who want to visit remote locales accessible only to flying boats.

“In the past 10 years or so, tourism has been growing,” says Reece, founder and president of Catalina Aircraft in Longboat Key, Florida. “People want to go places. Guess what you’re missing in a lot of places they want to go to? Airport infrastructure. A lot of islands today are not big enough to include room for that.”

Reece plans to introduce what he calls the NGAA (Next Generation Amphibious Aircraft) Catalina by the end of the decade. Using the same airframe made sense, he says, because of its ruggedness and functionality—not to mention its continued appeal. 

There is, however, another, more economical, reason for pursuing the platform: The basic aircraft already has approval from the Federal Aviation Administration. Even though the new version will have modern avionics and engines, Reece can save millions of dollars in development costs by sticking with a known concept. “This is a variant of an existing approved design,” says Reece, who owns the rights and plans to the original PBY Catalina. “I’m making some limited changes to it. I only have to recertify those limited changes to the overall aircraft.”

Interested individuals and companies, as well as the military, have contacted Reece about his plans, which could include building variations for putting out wildfires, cargo and troop transport, passenger service, science exploration, and search and rescue.

“Aerial firefighting is huge business,” he says. “Everybody wants planes for firefighting because it’s such a big concern these days. It will be scoop-on-the-fly, along with some new technology. We’ve got a drop computer system we’ve been developing that utilizes a spotter airplane with a [laser-based detection system] so we can map out our drop points and trajectories.”

Not to be outdone, Amphibian Aerospace Industries of Darwin, Australia, is currently retrofitting older aircraft with modern components as it works on a planned release of the new Albatross 2.0, more properly known as the G-111, by the end of the decade. Coveted by collectors today, the Grumman HU-16 Albatross was originally introduced in 1949 and remained in active use through 1995. It featured a wingspan of 96 feet and could carry a crew of four with 15,000 pounds of cargo or passengers. 

According to CEO Dan Webster, his company is eyeing a global market for commercial cargo and passenger service, medical transport, and multiple other uses. He sees the tourism industry, especially among the thousands of smaller islands without airport infrastructure in the South Pacific, as an important focal point.

“Many resorts are operating marginally at the moment,” he says. “This changes the business model for them. They can bring in a weekend customer in a fraction of the time it took to get there before by ferry or other means. Now they can fly direct to the resort. The thing about the Albatross is its capacity. With room for 28 passengers and their luggage, it will be the largest certified flying boat on the market once we get it running.”

With midrange flying boats preparing to take off again, is there hope for a return of the big “ocean liners of the sky”? Probably not. Though magnificent, the Clippers and other passenger ships were old and slow compared to the modern jetliners that dominate air travel today. “As graceful and luxurious as the flying boat was, it was terribly inefficient compared to a land plane,” says van der Linden. “You can’t run an airline if you can’t make money.”

Sadly, none of the deluxe flying boats of that bygone era remain. All were scrapped, destroyed, or just fell victim to abandonment and neglect. A full-scale replica of the Boeing B-314, built to original specifications, is on display at the Foynes Flying Boat & Maritime Museum in Limerick, Ireland, once an important terminus for flying boats on the way to Europe.

Today, about the only place you can view most of these majestic relics is at museums. I saw firsthand the NC-4 and PBY-5 Catalina on loan from the National Air and Space Museum at the National Naval Aviation Museum, as well as a PB2Y-5R Coronado.

The size of these aircraft is stunning. For example, the wingspan of the NC-4 is 126 feet. By comparison, the Wright brothers’ flight on December 17, 1903, was just 120 feet. I learned that the Wright Flyer could have taken off and landed on the wings of the NC-4—with room to spare.

The size of the Coronado is also impressive. I felt insignificant standing next to this flying sea monster, which is more than 27 feet tall. You can see why it required four gigantic engines to power free from the suction-like grip of the ocean and make altitude.

Equally inspiring is the Catalina. Smaller than the other two, it has a wingspan of only 104 feet and required just two 1,200-horsepower engines to reach the skies. But what the PBY lacked in size, it made up for in toughness. 

Seeing these remarkable aircraft up close is a memorable experience. I can only imagine what it would be like to fly in one of them. Sadly, the chances of doing so these days are slim. Thank goodness, a new generation of flying boats is on the horizon. Maybe, just maybe.

As I walked out of the museum, I could only wonder what the future would hold. I looked back at the airplanes one last time and was reminded of the words of Jimmy Buffett, a true fan of the half plane, half boat: “Taking off and landing in the water held a romantic fascination for me.” 

Dave Kindy  is a journalist, freelance writer, and book reviewer who writes about aviation, space, military history, and other topics.

This article is from the Summer 2024 issue of  Air & Space Quarterly , the National Air and Space Museum's signature magazine that explores topics in aviation and space, from the earliest moments of flight to today.  Explore the full issue.