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Soundproof Your Inboard Engine And Generator

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Save your voice and regain your floating peaceful refuge by adding soundproofing to your engine and generator.

Insulation inside engine cover

The best strategy to address noise is by containing it at the source, a good example being the insulation inside this engine cover.

Time spent on the water should be relaxing. But that can be difficult when you have to scream over engine or generator noise during conversations or are left lying awake at night listening to the melodious hum of an air conditioning unit. Installing soundproofing can make a huge difference in onboard noise reduction. Here's how to transform the hullabaloo of your boat into the peace and tranquility of a floating Zen garden.

The best way to combat noise is by containing it at the source — within an engine compartment, for example. Soundproofing is perfect for this application, and while not fireproof, it is typically fire-retardant up to around 225 F.

Installation of a good quality foam soundproofing barrier can reduce engine noise by 10 to 35 decibels (about 65%). Soundproofing material is available in a wide variety of forms, from sprays and paints to foil-backed foam panels. Foam panels are a popular choice and one that's very effective against airborne noise pollution.

Soft generator sound proof enclosure

Soft sound shields, such as this one from GSI (stopthesound.com), provide both installation flexibility and significant noise reduction.

Self-adhesive panels are easy to install (just peel and stick), but you have to plan and position them exactly where you want them the first try as you typically can't reposition them without damaging the foam. Panels without adhesive backing require spray- or brush-on contact adhesives, which may allow a bit of last-minute repositioning, making them easier to work with in tight spaces.

Overhead panels

­Regardless of adhesives used, overhead panels require additional support from mechanical fasteners.

Regardless of the adhesives used, panels also require the use of mechanical fasteners (such as screws and fender washers) particularly for overhead horizontal installations.

Soundproofing panels can be cut to shape with a box cutter or razor knife, however a serrated knife blade will provide a cleaner cut of the foam material itself. Thin sheets of soundproofing material can also be cut with a pair of good quality scissors. To ensure the best fit (and avoid cutting snafus) make cardboard templates first to check fit and for use as a cutting guide. Be sure to dry fit everything prior to applying adhesives or peeling self-adhesive panels.

Joining tape to seal and prevent sound leaks

Use joining tape to seal and prevent sound "leaks" at panel joints.

When planning your installation, remember that sound flows like water, meaning you'll want to use Mylar seal or joining tape (typically provided by the manufacturer) to prevent "leaks" at panel joints. Cables and hoses penetrating the material should be sealed using tight-fitting rubber grommets, while access hatches should close snugly with a good, tight seal.

That said, any soundproofing installation must provide adequate ventilation for the engine. Required vents and air holes can be quieted using air baffles. It's not realistic to expect all noise to be eliminated once soundproofing is installed, but when done correctly, you should be able to carry on a conversation at normal volume levels. After all, who wants to yell when you are trying to relax?

Soundproofing Installation Tips

  • Read all instructions for the soundproofing, adhesives, and mounting hardware prior to starting your project.
  • Make templates to check fit prior to cutting panels. Be sure to allow for material thickness at corners.
  • Ensure your installation provides adequate ventilation and keeps insulation material above bilge water levels. (Avoid exposure to any wet areas.)
  • Provide a minimum clearance of 6 inches between soundproofing and engine or generator exhaust manifolds.
  • Use sharp tools when cutting soundproofing, both to produce clean cuts and to avoid tearing of reflective foil. The foil or silver facing side should face upward when cutting.
  • Handle soundproofing material carefully. Avoid folding the material back on itself, which can result in creasing.
  • Seal all exposed edges, joints, and corners with Mylar seam tape to prevent water or other contaminants (such as fumes or oil) from entering and degrading the soundproofing material. Seam tape can also be used to provide chafe protection at wear points. You can purchase it at most marine stores.
  • Don't rely on adhesives alone. Use fasteners and fender washers where appropriate (all overhead and vertical surfaces) to ensure backup in the event of adhesive failure.
  • Apply adhesive for and install one panel at a time. Install the top panel first, which lets adjacent vertical panels provide support to the outer edges of the top panel.

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Frank Lanier

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

Capt. Frank Lanier is a SAMS-accredited marine surveyor with over 40 years of experience in the marine and diving industries. He’s an author, public speaker, and multiple award-winning journalist whose articles on boat maintenance, repair, and seamanship appear regularly in numerous marine publications worldwide. Contact him via his YouTube channel “Everything Boats with Capt. Frank Lanier” or at captfklanier.com.

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  • Yachting Monthly
  • Digital edition

Yachting Monthly cover

Marine engine soundproofing

  • April 16, 2014

Yachting Monthly guidelines for installing marine engine soundproofing

Duncan Kent’s full report on how to choose the best marine engine soundproofing for your yacht, can be read in the June 2014 issue of Yachting Monthly .

Guidelines on installing marine engine soundproofing: Foil/cloth and hard barrier soundproofing is best cut with a sharp modelling knife – but it’s easier and neater to cut the foam using a serrated blade. Thinner sheets cut well with good scissors.

Self-adhesive sheets are easy to peel and attach, but you must position it correctly first time. Plain-backed types require spray or brushed contact adhesives – the latter being more controllable in tight spaces. Mechanical fixings should be added to all horizontal upper surfaces.

Suppliers advise that all joints are covered using special joining tape to avoid ‘leakage’. Self-adhesive foil tape works excellently on foil-covered material, but white plastic tape from Vetus will peeled off easily.

Ideally, soundproofed bulkheads should totally encase the engine area, separate from any tanks, which can resonate - amplifying the sound. Engine noise can ‘flow’ along the bilges, so where possible bulkheads should continue down to the hull, leaving only limber holes for bilge water.

Remember to provide enough airflow for combustion. Open air holes will ruin the insulation, but a simple baffle will stop most of the noise escaping.

Finally, all cables and pipes should pass through snug-fitting rubber grommets, while any covers or side panels should fit snugly with a noise-tight seal.

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The Best Guide to Soundproofing a Boat Engine Compartment

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Sailing on a boat can be an exhilarating adventure. Nevertheless, loud engine noise and vibrations can spoil the enjoyment. Luckily, this guide presents methods to soundproof the boat engine compartment.

Soundproofing a Boat Engine Compartment

In this article, I’ll show you how to fix this problem. But before we proceed, it’s essential to identify the reasons for the uncanny noise from your boat’s engine so you can know what solution to apply.

Also, read these Handy Tips on How To Quiet Your Boat

Why Is My Boat’s Engine So Loud?

As an affiliate, I may collect a share of sales or other compensation from the links on this page.

If your boat’s engine is loud it may be due to a malfunctioning exhaust or a wrong propeller pitch. However, new boat engines can also be loud due to a lack of sound insulation.

New engines can be annoyingly loud. This in no way implies that the engine is defective. A new fiberglass boat has little to no sound insulation.

There’s also the issue of the propeller pitch. Installing the wrong propeller will affect the boat engine’s revolutions per minute (RPM). RPMs over 4,800 are bad for your engine.

A bad lubricant or gasoline identified by the engine sensors might also impact propeller pitch, causing the noise levels to rise. Listen to every sound, especially the one coming from your engine room, when sailing your boat.

Ensure you fix these problems before you resume sailing on your boat, as high noise levels are not suitable for your health, boat, and even aquatic life.

Soundproofing a Boat Engine Compartment – Step by Step

Here’s how to reduce noise in your boat’s engine compartment:

  • Service your boat’s engine.
  • Replace the engine propeller.
  • Seal all openings except the vent.
  • Isolate vibrating parts.
  • Install a soundproof material in the engine’s compartment.
  • Line the walls and ceiling of your boat’s engine room with soundproofing materials.

1. Service Your Boat’s Engine

This step is the first and most important. Before you go on sealing compartments, you must ensure the engine is in good condition. If the engine fails, there’ll be no boat ride after all. Get an expert to check the engine. Change lubricants if necessary.

2. Replace the Engine Propeller

If the wrong propeller is installed, you’ll have a lot of noise from your boat’s engine. The propeller is responsible for your boat’s revolutions per minute, affecting the noise. The simple solution is to replace the propeller with something more adequate.

3. Seal All Openings Except the Vent

Seal all areas that allow sound passage except the vent. You don’t seal the vent because, like every other system, the engine needs air to function properly. Using a soundproof material, seal the following places:

  • Panel joints
  • The spaces left by wire connections
  • Pipes that lead outside
  • The areas that lead from the engine room like the Lafayette
  • Every single slight opening except the vent

4. Isolate Vibrating Parts

When two items collide or an object rattles, vibration occurs. Use light materials to separate solid objects that could collide in a boat engine compartment or use it to isolate concrete elements to reduce vibration. The light material allows the solid section to move while keeping the vibrations contained.

5. Install a Soundproof Material in the Engine’s Compartment

Sound absorption materials like foam-backed material and vinyl can help reduce noise inside a boat engine’s compartment. Insulating the engine compartment will reduce and absorb noise from the engine room. In addition, spread a waterproof carpet over the engine to reduce noise and keep water out.

6. Line the Walls and Ceiling of Your Boat’s Engine Room With Soundproofing Materials

You can use soundproofing materials such as 1-inch foam-backed cloth (foam spray) or perforated vinyl headliners to cover your boat’s walls and the ceiling of your boat’s engine compartment. Take a step further by covering the engine bay with these materials.

Adverse Effects of a Boat Engine’s Noise and Vibration

Constant exposure to engine noise and vibration can harm you and your boat. Some of these effects include:

  • Boat squeaking
  • Disruption of aquatic life

Let’s analyze these points below:

  • Deafness: Noise is measured in decibels (dB). The human ear can tolerate sounds below 85dB. Sounds from 100dB and above can cause deafness. A loud boat engine produces sounds of up to 100dB. Constant exposure to sound at this level can damage your ear.
  • Boat squeaking: Constant boat vibration can loosen fasteners and other weak sections of the boat. Those components will begin to squeak and make various unpleasant sounds. This can reduce the boat’s lifespan and even make a new boat appear old.
  • Disruption of aquatic life: Boat Engine sounds affect the coral reef, stimulating erratic behavior in adult fish. Enraged adult fish can start attacking other younger harmless fish. This results in a higher rate of mortality in aquatic life.

How To Maintain Your Boat Engine and Prolong Its Lifespan

Boats are pretty expensive, so It’s pointless to spend money on a boat only to have the engine fail after a year or two. Here are five suggestions for extending the life of your boat engine.

  • Warm up your boat regularly. Your boat’s engine can become cranky if you leave your boat for weeks or months without warmups. If you’re not taking the boat out, turn on the engine and let it rev for a few minutes now and then.
  • Cruise more often. The longer you leave your boat’s engine idle, the weaker it gets. If you can afford it, cruising regularly keeps the boat’s engine alive and responsive.
  • Keep fuel and oil fresh. Check your fuel and oil levels regularly.
  • Regularly flush out salt water . Saltwater is bad for your boat’s engine. So you must always thoroughly flush immediately after sailing on salt water.
  • Cover your boat. As simple as it sounds, it can be a burden. Always cover your boat when not in use. A boat cover will keep many unfavorable factors out of your engines, such as harsh weather and dust.

Cruising on your boat can be a delightful experience, but the noise and vibration from the engine compartment may spoil the fun.

Take simple measures in sealing up your engine room and engine compartment to reduce the noise so you can enjoy your time on your boat.

Developing a maintenance culture will keep your boat’s engine in good condition and help prolong its lifespan.

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Insulating the engine compartment

Insulation and soundproofing for engine rooms and engine covers  An engine room that leaks noise is a complex problem. Noise and vibration can be heard and felt in and around a vessel in several ways. The issues can be dealt with well once you detect the place where noise and vibrations are leaking. Some places to investigate in order to discover noise leaks include:

  • Hatch and covers   Are these soundproofed well enough and do they close properly?
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Merfocell PU, Engine compartment insulation

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Isomat TS, mass loaded vinyl & sound barrier

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Insulating and soundproofing an engine compartment in peasure crafts and ships To soundproof and insulate an engine compartment in a pleasure craft, or any other vessel, Acousicshop.co.uk offers you solutions in the form of tips, guides and products to do so. Not only on our Boats & Yachts page, but also on our tips page, which happens to be called Boats & Yachts too, is where you can all the acoustic solutions to reduce engine noise, insulation to reduce propellor vibrations and much more. If you need advice on which products to use please let us know , we're happy to help you.

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sailboat engine sound insulation

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Marine Insulation…

With 36 years of experience of producing acoustic materials for Soundproofing and Noise reduction, we have the perfect solution for your marine acoustic problems. Our marine insulation products are ideal for sound-proofing boat engine rooms and controlling noise and vibration problems. Acoustafoam’s Class O composite products offer the best possible acoustic result especially for engine room sound insulation due to the multi-layer combination.

Acoustafoam laminates are used in many industrial applications but mostly used for the marine industry engine room noise problem areas.

Acoustafoam Laminates have three layers in addition to a protective facing for cosmetic and practical functions:

The Absorption Layer

A thick layer of 25mm fire zero rated Class O foam which soaks up noise and stops it bouncing around the engine compartment.

The Transmission Layer

A high-density 5kg per square metre polymeric barrier that provides the highest possible mass for the job of transmission loss (stops noise from getting through to other areas of the boat at the application wall).

The Isolation Layer

This 6mm layer of foam has a crucial function, it acts like the gap in double glazing and stops the noise that hits the transmission layer being carried through to the bulkhead.

Acoustafoam Marine Laminates can be supplied with a range of facings. PU Films Black and White, Glass Fibre, Aluminium Coated Glass Fibre, Aluminium Foil, Fire Rated Fabrics or a range of Sprayed Fire Rated Paints.

Acoustafoam offers a standard variety of products for marine insulation applications. Sheets 990mm x 590mm x 32mm – 4 sheets per box with a self-adhesive backing. Installation is easy. Simply cut the material to shape, peel off the release paper and fix to the affected area. Use Acoustafoam jointing tape to seal butt joint edges.

Acoustafoam manufactures marine acoustic insulation made from Rockwool fire pro. RW2000 is a rock mineral wool slab engineered to provide A-rated fire protection aboard ships and offshore installations. This product is Lloyd Register of Shipping and MED certified A30 and A60 fire protection to steel decks and bulkheads. It can be used to provide fire protection, thermal insulation and sound reduction with the minimum of weight. The product is laminated with B67 foil coated glass Class O fire rated.

Material code: RW 2000. Description : Marine Rockwool Colour: Foil faced (B67) Sheet size: 1000mm x 600mm.Thickness: 25mm – 40mm – 75mm. Thermal conductivity: 0.033 w/mk at 10*c.

Acoustics: Marine Rockwool foil faced slabs can considerably reduce the level of environmental sound.
Fire specification: RW 2000 is Lloyd’s Register of Shipping certified, and MED approved to provide A30 / A60 fire protection.

Applications: Fire protection, thermal insulation and acoustic treatment of marine and offshore installations.
Finishes: The sheets can be supplied with a factory laminated reinforced foil facing. The foil is intended as a vapour barrier, and butt joints should be sealed with foil tape (b67/50mm/s.a.).

Fixing: Contact adhesive, Mechanical fasteners and Self-adhesive backing if required. Work on the site: Fit to clean, dry surface sheets of pre-cut shapes. All but joints cover with self-adhesive 50mm b67 foil tape. Sheets can be cut using a sharp knife. This product is also supplied with pre-cut shapes and edges material wrapped.

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sailboat engine sound insulation

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Boat Engine Compartment Insulation Kit

Second Skin boat soundproofing kits (doghouse)

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Free shipping is valid on any order shipped to a single address in the mainland USA. Standard shipping is covered. Overnight or 2-day delivery will cost extra and is not available on custom-made products.

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Boat Engine Compartment Insulation Kits

* Made In USA*

Second Skin Boat Insulation Kits have all the materials you need to annihilate unwanted engine noise and get back to relaxing on your boat. No more yelling required when friends and family need to SIT DOWN or GRAB THE ROPES the next time you idle your way up to the dock. Add (or replace the old!) insulation in your engine compartment, and cut the noise level at the same time.

Our insulation kits are designed to work whether you have a doghouse or a full engine compartment. Start with a layer of Damplifier Pro to stop the structural noise due to the compartment vibrating. 100% coverage will increase the density of the compartment and help it BLOCK more noise. Use the foil tape to seal the seams and protect from water. Finish off with a layer of Heat Wave Pro or Mega Block to insulate and ABSORB/MUFFLE the engine noise. Seal edges again with the foil tape to extend the material life as long as possible. Results range from 4 to 8 dB reduction depending on the engine compartment's construction and how much coverage you get inside the compartment (30-50% of perceived noise). Pretty awesome for a project that takes a couple hours.

For your standard, curved Doghouse project, we recommend using one of the standard kits with Heat Wave Pro. It's more flexible and very easy to bend however you need. If your application is on a primarily flat surface (like the lid), Mega Block is a great upgrade option as it's more absorptive.

Expected Sound Reduction: 4-8 dB

Standard Boat Doghouse Insulation Kits

Small Compartment (12 sq ft)

  • Damplifier Pro  - 13.5 Sq Ft (8 sheets, 12" x 20" each, 2mm thick)
  • Heat Wave Pro  - 24 Sq Ft (1 sheet, 4' x 6', 3/8" thick)
  • High Temp Spray Adhesive  - 16 oz can
  • Foil Insulation Tape  - 1 roll (2" x 150') 
  • Wooden Hand Roller  

Standard Compartment (24 sq ft)

  • Damplifier Pro  - 25 Sq Ft (15 sheets, 12" x 20" each, 2mm thick)
  • Heat Wave Pro - 24 Sq Ft (1 sheet, 4' x 6', 3/8" thick)

Large Compartment (36 sq ft)

  • Damplifier Pro  - 36.5 Sq Ft (22 sheets, 12" x 20" each, 2mm thick)
  • Heat Wave Pro  - 48 Sq Ft (2 sheets, 4' x 6', 3/8" thick)

These kits are ideal for a doghouse style compartment with aggressive curves, and can also be used as van or  RV engine compartment insulation for any vehicle's doghouse. 

how-to-soundproof-a-boat-doghouse.jpg

Premium Boat Engine Compartment Insulation Kits

  • Mega Block  - 12 Sq Ft (3 sheets, 24" x 24" each, 1/2" thick)
  • Mega Block  - 24 Sq Ft (6 sheets, 24" x 24" each, 1/2" thick)
  • Mega Block  - 36 Sq Ft (9 sheets, 24" x 24" each, 1/2" thick)

boat-engine-compartment-soundproofing.jpg

Install Guide

Step 1: Damplifier Pro on the Fiberglass Doghouse

Clean the doghouse with denatured alcohol. Don't use degreaser or any cleaner that will leave a film behind, because it will negatively impact the mat's adhesion. Just cut, peel, and stick. It's easiest to cut any holes after you install the material. Damplifier Pro will stop the structural vibrations of the compartment itself and with 100% coverage will make the doghouse a more effective noise barrier. Both will help to reduce noise.

mastercraft-boat-doghouse-covered-in-damplifier-pro.jpg

Step 2: Foil tape the seams

Adding foil tape on the seams adds extra protection. Not required, but recommended.

mastercraft-damplifier-pro-seams-taped-with-hvac-tape.jpg

Step 3: Heat Wave Pro as your insulator and sound absorber

Heat Wave Pro adds some much needed sound absorption to help further reduce engine noise. Think of your engine compartment as a box with sound reverberating around inside it. With Heat Wave Pro absorbing those sound waves instead of them bouncing off the hard surface, you have less build up and less overall noise escaping the compartment.

mastercraft-boat-doghouse-insulated-with-heat-wave-pro.jpg

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13-02-2021, 10:35  
Boat: Pearson 36-1
for my compartment. The is not in a small box or room, rather under the and hence open to all of the aft areas.

I would like to find a product that absorbs the sound, is fireproof and self-adhesive.

Thanks.

George
14-02-2021, 12:22  
Boat: Fiberglas shattering 44' steel trawler
and breathing air is the first step. Apply on the inside, and include the tube that lets air in. Leave absolutely no cracks or gaps. Given a , you may need to go under the engine as well.

Most of the insulating boards or rolls for this job are laminates of foam and a material that just does not transfer vibrations. Some use plastic layers, but from a potential efficiency perspective I suggest lead foil. Here are Defender's offerings:



There is a secondary problem with vibrations outside the auditory range (50-20K Hz) setting up vibrations in other bodies, such as , that are auditory. You really do have to keep all that stuff inside your box.

What's best? I don't know. we might have a provider with experience comparing types. I'm inclined to believe perfection in sealing is more important than your choice of material.

Here's what Yachting Monthly said about it, which is pretty much what I just said:

Guidelines on installing engine soundproofing:
Foil/cloth and hard barrier soundproofing is best cut with a sharp modelling knife – but it’s easier and neater to cut the foam using
a serrated blade. Thinner cut well with good scissors.

Self-adhesive are easy to peel
and attach, but you must position it correctly first time. Plain-backed types
require spray or brushed contact adhesives – the latter being more controllable
in tight spaces. Mechanical fixings should be added to all horizontal upper
surfaces.

Suppliers advise that all joints are covered
using special joining tape to avoid ‘leakage’. Self-adhesive foil tape
works excellently on foil-covered material, but white plastic tape
from Vetus will peeled off easily.

Ideally, soundproofed bulkheads should
totally encase the engine area, separate from any , which can resonate -
amplifying the sound. Engine can ‘flow’ along the bilges, so where
possible bulkheads should continue down to the , leaving only limber holes
for .

Remember to provide enough airflow for
combustion. Open air holes will ruin the insulation, but a simple baffle will stop most of the escaping.

Finally, all and pipes should pass
through snug-fitting rubber grommets, while any covers or side should
fit snugly with a noise-tight seal.
14-02-2021, 15:06  
Boat: Bayliner, 4588, 45'
14-02-2021, 15:15  
Boat: Herreshoff Caribbean 50
and !
 
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sailboat engine sound insulation

Updating a classic fiberglass cruising yacht.

sailboat engine sound insulation

How to replace sailboat engine compartment insulation:

When I bought my 1990 Ericson 32 the engine compartment was lined with reflective engine insulation, but many of the panels were disintegrating.  The plastic mirrored surface was peeling back, and the foam underneath was flaking off.  Once the foam bits landed on the sole (floorboards) of my boat, if stepped on would turn into an icky black mass of gunk.  

I needed to replace this insulation for general neatness more than for sound insulation.

West Marine sells engine compartment insulation kits, consisting of adhesive foam insulation, tape, and in some cases, fasteners to help the foam attach to vertical and inverted surfaces.  The kits come in 1” and ½” foam thicknesses.  

This spring I had my engine removed for unfortunate reasons, but the work afforded me easy access to the engine compartment.  

Step 1:  Remove as many attached accessories as possible from the compartment walls

If your boat is anything like mine, you have hoses and pumps and other accessories screwed into the wall of the engine compartment.  If you can remove as many of these as possible it will make the installation of the new insulation much easier.  Before you start, take pictures of how everything looks so that you will be able to re-install everything the same way. 

Step 2:  Clean out the old foam.

The next step in the process is to scrape out all of the old insulation.  This was not a difficult process and I found that a drywall spreading blade worked well as a scraping tool.  Because the new insulation relies on an adhesive backing to stay in place, it is important to get the underlying engine compartment walls as clean as possible.  

Step 3:  Cut the new insulation to fit the spaces appropriately

The adhesive on the foam is delivered with a peel-off layer.  It’s useful to measure the foam carefully and then ‘dry-fit’ it once or twice to ensure a good fit.  Then peel off the protective layer and stick it on.  Here’s a photo of the back of my engine compartment, after I had completed the rear wall and was at work on the port side.  I elected not to remove my fuel filter and coolant tank overflow from the wall, and I could install the foam behind the bilge pump hoses.  

sailboat engine sound insulation

The ¾” West Marine foam includes special fasteners for attaching the insulation to inverted surfaces.  One of the fasteners I used for the ceiling of the compartment is circled in green: 

sailboat engine sound insulation

 After the insulation was installed, I used the included reflective tape to seal up the exposed edges as best as I could: 

sailboat engine sound insulation

At this point I had expended the majority of the foam included in my first kit.  The roll is only 32” by 54”.  I needed a second kit to complete the compartment cover.  

Fast forward a couple of months and I had a good opportunity to work on the much more accessible compartment cover.  I went to West Marine and bought another kit. 

sailboat engine sound insulation

My second kit did not come with the same fasteners my first kit had.  Indeed I had not realized until I reached the end of the process that I had purchased the ½” foam kit instead of the 1” foam that I used for the back of the compartment.  By that time, with the pieces cut up and adhered to my compartment cover there was no taking everything back to exchange it.  To keep the foam fastened to the inside of my engine compartment cover in addition to the adhesive backingI used some plastic-capped roofing nails driven lightly.

sailboat engine sound insulation

I think the 1” insulation is a better product.  It is stiffer and will no doubt do a better job of insulating sound than the ½” version.  

The best part about completing this small project is that I won’t have to worry about insulation foam gunk underfoot, at least for, hopefully a decade or so. 

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Boat Soundproofing

Boat insulation offers integral noise protection for those who enjoy being on the water. By learning how to soundproof your boat and what products to use, you can better prepare for loud noises avoid potential guest complaints. Explore the benefits of soundproofing and insulating your engine room.

How to Soundproof a Boat

Reasons to consider marine soundproofing, benefits of boat soundproofing.

  • What Parts of the Boat Need Soundproofing

Boat Engine Soundproofing

How to soundproof the boat engine and products to use, other soundproof cow products to reduce boat noise, boat soundproofing products.

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Boat Soundproofing

You bought your boat to enjoy spending time with family and friends out on the water. While you may have envisioned it as a place of peace and relaxation, a noisy motor or annoying sounds coming from the engine room may be creating a less-than-desirable environment onboard.

Anything from the generator to the engine to the air conditioning system could be making excessive noise. With Soundproof Cow marine soundproofing products, you’ll be able to enjoy spending time on the water while taking advantage of all the peace and relaxation your boat offers.

There are many different types of boats, from cozy houseboats to luxurious yachts. Although you might not be concerned about soundproofing a canoe, soundproofing can make a big difference in your maritime experience on an engine-powered vessel.

Motorboats are loud. Boat owners face noisy engines, wind sounds and water hitting the hull simultaneously. Any noise reduction can significantly improve your experience. The top reasons to soundproof your boat include the following:

  • Reduce noise in the cabin so you and your guests can enjoy each other’s company and not be bothered by the distraction of noise coming from the engine.
  • Provide a more enjoyable stay for your guests by reducing noises when docked.
  • Improve the sound quality of the boat, so you don’t have to shout to be heard by others.
  • Reduce noise for other nearby boaters.

When you maximize sound quality and reduce noise through soundproofing, you and your passengers can enjoy all the benefits of the water. Being on or near water is great for the body and mind. Research shows that being on a boat brings peace, calm, unity and happiness. It releases feel-good chemicals in the brain, like dopamine and serotonin and reduces stress levels. For example,  72% of Americans  feel healthier after being on the water. Perhaps this is the reason millions of Americans go boating every year.

However, if extreme boat noise causes stress and anxiety for you and your passengers, you cancel out the therapeutic benefits of cruising blue waters. If your boat is too noisy to enjoy a soothing sail, it is time to consider boat soundproofing materials. By reducing noise levels on your boat, you’ll enjoy the following benefits:

  • Increased hearing safety:  Boating Magazine says boat engine noise  can reach over 100 decibels  (dB).   This is a dangerous level of noise. Sounds over 85 dB  can cause hearing loss  after prolonged or repeated exposure. The higher the dB, the less time it takes for hearing damage. How do you know if your boat is dangerously loud? If you have to raise your voice to be heard or can not understand someone standing three feet away, it is time to consider noise reduction.
  • Better operational safety:  Noise is distracting and masks other sounds that might point to danger. For example, the typical smoke detector  emits 85 dB of sound . You need to be able to hear smoke detectors no matter where you are on your boat at all times. By soundproofing the boat engine compartment, you can maintain safe noise levels and be able to hear alarms.
  • Reduced noise-related stress:  Noise causes stress, defeating the purpose of a relaxing cruise with family and friends. One  study from 2016  found that annoying noise increases depression and anxiety. Noise also  triggers your body’s stress response , which can eventually lead to the risk of heart disease and high blood pressure. Just  a 10 dB increase  in noise can negatively impact mental health. When it comes to noise, it’s just not worth dealing with if you can soundproof your boat.
  • Improved insulation:  Marine  soundproofing insulation  can reduce noise and help insulate your boat for a more comfortable experience. Many soundproofing materials like wool and fiberglass can help keep a boat cool in the summer and warm in the winter. With marine sound insulation panels, you will be able to enjoy your boat more year-round.
  • Meet Sound Ordinances:  Some states have a maximum noise level for motorboats. For example, in Alabama, noise  cannot exceed 86 dB,  measured at 50 feet from the vessel. In New Mexico, boaters must be careful not to generate complaints from other boaters in state parks. Soundproofing is one way to keep your boat in line with state regulations and make other boaters happy.

What Parts of the Boat Need Soundproofing?

Certain boat parts might need more soundproofing than others. The amount of noise your boat generates may also depend on its materials, quality and age. For example, newer boats tend to hold new parts, meaning the machinery will generate more noise. On the other hand, a very old boat may be on its last leg, producing more noise due to faulty parts. The boat’s materials and quality may also influence how the boat conducts noise.

For those who want to learn what parts of a boat need soundproofing, the boat’s engine, doghouse and compartment area are a great place to start. These areas and machinery need the most soundproofing out of the entire boat. Before you begin soundproofing, you might want to educate yourself about sound. Simply put,  sound is a vibration  that can travel through solids, liquids and air. Your goal as a soundproofing DIYer is to focus on reducing the transmission of vibrations through air and solids.

For example, you might find noise from the wind as you sail, or from the vibrations of water hitting the boat. However, a loud engine is the number one cause of the noise, meaning that soundproofing your engine room can increase guests’ boating experiences and make it easier to hear others during your trip.

A boat’s engine might be loud for a variety of reasons. Most likely, the engine has the wrong propeller pitch or a malfunctioning exhaust. Improper or malfunctioning parts could lead to increased revolutions per minute (RPM) and rising noise levels, which have adverse effects on the engine.

If you are ready for a nice quiet ride, asking  an acoustics expert  for help is a good place to start. An expert can determine which parts of the boat need soundproofing and the best materials to use. If you’re a DIY boater, you can purchase boat engine sound insulation and other easy-to-install materials to quiet your boat. Soundproof Cow products come with simple installation instructions, and many only require a few essential tools.

If you’ve ever spent time on a boat, you know the engine can be extremely loud and is likely your boat’s greatest source of noise. There is a tremendous amount of vibration noise due to the action of the engine reflected by the metal frame of the boat.

The result is that guests on your boat often need to shout to be heard, and you and your fellow boat passengers could even be sustaining long-term hearing damage without even realizing it.

Marine engine soundproofing can make boat trips much more pleasant and desirable for all involved. Since soundproofing a boat is not all that difficult and quite inexpensive relative to the cost of the boat itself, there is virtually no reason not to soundproof your boat engine. Here are  three common boat engines  that may need soundproofing:

  • Inboard drive:  An inboard drive, sometimes called an inboard motor, is an engine enclosed inside the boat.
  • Outboard motor:  Outboard motors are a common type of boat engine mounted to the rear wall or transom of the boat.
  • Sterndrive:  A sterndrive is an inboard drive and outboard motor combined.

You can use soundproofing materials to reduce noise and improve sound quality regardless of the boat’s motor type.

You may also need to soundproof other boat parts to dampen sounds like water lapping against the boat, making sleeping difficult on overnight boat trips. This might include the hull, which is the body of the boat, and the cabins.

Marine Engine Soundproofing Makes Boat Trips More Pleasant

The best way to tackle boat noise is to focus on soundproofing the engine compartment. When soundproofing an inboard motor compartment, install a quality foam barrier to  lose more than 30 dB  of noise.

Also, you will want to seal panel joints with a  soundproofing sealant  or  tape  to keep sound from leaking and ensure panels fit tightly together. Also, close up gaps around any pipes or cables penetrating the soundproofing material and make sure hatches and doors close tightly. Lastly, avoid sealing up vents to ensure your engine gets proper ventilation. Here are a few installation tips to keep in mind:

  • Thoroughly read all instructions provided with soundproofing materials and adhesives before getting started.
  • Make templates to make sure you cut the right-sized soundproofing panels.
  • Be sure to leave adequate ventilation.
  • Avoid placing sound insulation materials in any wet areas unless the material is waterproof.
  • Keep a minimum of six inches clear between soundproofing and exhaust manifolds.
  • Use sharp tools when cutting soundproofing materials for a clean cut.
  • Seal all edges, joints and corners with seam tape to keep water out.

We recommend one of our  Quiet Barrier® Specialty Composite  products to soundproof your boat. This four-layer composite effectively reduces airborne and vibration noise transfer from high noise-producing entities like cars, heavy construction machinery and boats. The top film layer resists heat and high-frequency sound and is easy to clean. The next layer is a thick sound-absorbing foam that soaks up all frequencies. The third layer is our superior sound-blocking  Quiet Barrier® MD Soundproofing Material . Finally, the fourth foam layer isolates the barrier layer from vibrating surfaces to enhance its power.

The Quiet Barrier® Specialty Composite has multiple barriers and foam levels for maximum strength. You can choose an easy peel-and-stick backing to place it easily and stay in place, giving you reliable and consistent noise protection on your boat. You’ll only need a few basic tools, such as a utility knife and a tape measure, to install Quiet Barrier® Specialty Composite. Adding this soundproofing barrier around your boat engine makes it easier for you and your boat passengers to relax and enjoy the ride, free of the most troubling noises boat riders usually experience.

You can also use Quiet Barrier® to line the hull or cabin walls or as a cabin carpet underlayment. Our Quiet Barrier® Speciality Composite includes:

  • Quiet Barrier® HD Soundproofing Composite: Our   Quiet Barrier® HD Soundproofing Composite  is a thicker composite that includes a 1/4-inch industrial-grade soundproofing barrier. This powerful barrier is also available with  a peel-and-stick backing .
  • Quiet Barrier® MD Soundproofing Composite:  Our  Quiet Barrier® MD Soundproofing Composite  features a medium thickness with a 1/8-inch barrier and is also available with  a peel-and-stick backing .
  • Quiet Barrier® LD Soundproofing Composite:  Our  Quiet Barrier® LD Soundproofing Composite is our thinnest Quiet Barrier® composite with a 1/16-inch barrier layer. This barrier is easy to fit anywhere. Choose Quiet Barrier® LD with peel-and-stick backing  for simple installation.

You can also use the following noise-blocking  barriers to soundproof your boat :

  • Fiberglass composites:  Fiberglass composites are designed to go wherever you put regular insulating materials. Our  Quiet Barrier® Fiberglass Composite  is perfect for silencing noisy pipes or applying to the ceiling. These barriers are extremely flexible, so they can fit just about anywhere you need noise control.
  • Mass-loaded vinyl barriers:  Mass-loaded vinyl (MLV) is as tough as it sounds. MLV  barriers are made of salt , small metal particles and sand. They add mass to block sound waves and keep them from penetrating walls and ceilings. You might use easy-to-install  Quiet Barrier® MD Soundproofing Material  to line cabin walls and avoid boat engine noise.
  • Temporary barriers:  Our  Quiet Barrier® Acoustic Quilts  offer a quick and simple soundproofing solution for various situations. These fiberglass quilts feature a vinyl cover and are designed to absorb sound. You can lay them on the floor, line hulls, cover hatches or line engine compartments, and watch your family get restful sleep.

If you have an outboard motor, you may have an engine cover called the cowling. Typically, a cowling does very little to reduce motor noise. Consider lining the cowling with  acoustic foam panels with aluminum facing . These panels are designed to handle high-heat areas and are available with peel-and-stick backing for easy installation. The aluminum surface helps protect the foam from heat, grease and fuel. You can cut panels to the size you need and place them inside the cowling to eliminate unwanted sounds. You’ll want to cover the inside of the cowling as much as possible without blocking air vents or touching moving parts.

Soundproof Cow's Boat Soundproofing Products

Tired of waves slapping against the hull all night? Do you wish you didn’t have to wear earplugs while resting in your cabin? Here are some other soundproofing materials to fit your needs so you can watch your worries sail away:

silent running 1 gallon

Why Choose Soundproof Cow for Marine Sound Insulation?

When you are out at sea, the only sounds you want to hear are lapping waves, seagulls, gentle conversation and laughter. At Soundproof Cow, we are here to make sure the sound of a roaring engine does not disrupt your boating adventures.

With our high-quality soundproofing solutions and results-focused approach, you can count on us to do what it takes to solve your noise issues. We will work with you to determine what your needs are and then recommend the best marine engine insulation materials and products for your unique situation.

We are committed to helping you find the soundproofing solutions you need to enjoy a noise-free sail. Along with the best customer service!

Ready to Enjoy Smooth Sailing With Soundproof Cow?

A peaceful voyage starts with Soundproof Cow. If you have not herd, we offer a free acoustic analysis so we can learn more about your boat soundproofing needs and develop a tailored solution that works for you. We have a vast selection of brand-name sound-dampening and -deadening materials, and we offer No Bull Sales and a Forever Sale for veterans and active service members so you can save on your project.

Do not let boat noise stop the  moosic –  shop Soundproofcow.com today !

If you have questions, we’re here to help. To get started, give us a call at 866-949-9269 or reach out online today to  schedule your free acoustic analysis .

Enjoy smooth sailing with Soundproof Cow boat soundproofing

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I just wanted to send a quick thank you for your rapid response and helpfulness. I very much appreciated it. You have been responsive in every way all through the process. It has been a pleasure doing business with you and your company.

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Boat Engine Noise and How to Soundproof it

side view of soundproofing foam

Our Foam Barrier composite is specifically designed to reduce noise pollution from enclosed areas where a high degree of sound proofing is required combined with resistance to wear and tear. Originally designed to reduce noise from inboard engine bays this sound absorbing material is the ideal solution for sound proofing engine noise in large and small boats. The polyurethane skin on the surface of the insulation is a tough, oil and water resistant coating protecting the insulation which is able to give effective sound absorption wherever internal engines or hydraulic power packs are used without the problem of liquid or dust contamination.

picture of a boat

Although designed as a marine sound insulating material for installation into the engine bays of boats, this versatile insulation has a wide variety of other uses where a reduction in noise is required. Onboard generators can be sound proofed using this insulation which can be fabricated to any thickness to give the best sound proofing possible. Comprising a mineral loaded soundproofing mat sandwiched between two layers of sound absorbing foam, this very efficient acoustic insulation is finished with a very tough, impermeable black polyurethane skin resistant to most fluids associated with petrol and diesel engines.

SA25FF/B/6 is easily cut to shape when required and can be installed using our special contact aerosol adhesive. We do not offer a self-adhesive version of this material due to its weight. With a mass of 5kg/m2 it is possible a self-adhesive version could delaminate in higher temperatures.

For installation into the engine compartment of a boat, the sound insulation should line all of the sides and the top of the bay. Insulating the top will mean inverting the product so it is suggested that additional mechanical fixings are used here to further secure the product.

If you are a boat builder looking for an effective solution to sound proof a boat engine then contact us. We will be pleased to help design the best form of sound proofing possible to reduce the noise from any boat engine or onboard generator.

Written by Stephen Young

© Sound Service (Oxford) Ltd. 2007

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Reverse or Neutral

  • Thread starter jrocheleau
  • Start date Sep 17, 2008
  • Oday Owner Forums
  • Ask An Oday Owner

jrocheleau

I've heard conflicting views on what to do with your transmission when under sail. Should it be kept in neutral or reverse when sailing?  

DannyS

What I've been told is to put it in reverse when under sail. This came from the best diesel mechanic in our area. He's the guy that works on most of the boats including the ferry and cruise boats here. I don't know if the make and model make a difference. Ours is a Universal M25. Hope this helps!  

Capt Jim24025

Capt Jim24025

Depends on your engine and tranny Check with the engine manufacturer. My VolvoPenta w/saildrive says to use Reverse but my Perkins 107 manual says to use forward. In lieu of that, try them both and find out which one stops the prop from turning. You want to stop the shaft from turning to prevent excessive wear on the transmission and packing bearing. I've also been told that a stationary prop has less drag than a moving prop (but that seems counter-intuitive to me). Capt. Cook  

Bob Todd

My spin... Right on, Cap'n... I have a Volvo/Perkins MD2030 hooked up to a Volvo MS25S saildrive. Manual states when under sail, place shifter momentarily in reverse to stop prop and then place in neutral. Cheers, Bob  

Hello All! Do you know right position of the Paragon reverse gear (Atomic engine) under sail? I didn't find it at the operation manual.  

RAD

Konstantin said: Do you know right position of the Paragon reverse gear (Atomic engine) under sail? I didn't find it at the operation manual. Click to expand

Konstantin

Thanks a lot! Hello Rad! My name is Konstantin. I'm from Russia and I've bought the same boat (O'Day 32)! I see that it is really rare boat and there is not a lot of information. How long you own your boat?  

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The Musings of a Hopeless Wanderer

Engaging in the eternal search for the meaning of life...or a good time.

  • Netherlands

Monday, September 3, 2018

Tackling moscow by train and boat.

Our first full day in Moscow started fairly late since we were still catching up on sleep.  Around 1, we finally were able to get our act together and get out the door. 

We stopped by a cafe to get some breakfast and headed over to the Red Square.  Since the festival is going on, we had to go through metal detectors.  Once we cleared security, we reached the State Historical Museum which provided an entrance to the Red Square.

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We walked the length of the Red Square, passing by the Kazan cathedral.

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Under normal conditions, the Red Square is a large walking area with the State Historical Museum on one end and St. Basil's on the other end.  On the sides is the Kremlin wall on one side and then the GUM shopping mall and the Kazan cathedral on the other side.  Presently, the walking area has been considerably narrowed and the fesitval grounds occupying a large space between the Kremlin and the mall.

We even asked a stranger to take our picture!

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After walking around the Red Square, we had to leave to meet up with our Metro Tour.  

Moscow has famously pretty metro stations so metro tours are quite popular.  We booked a relatively inexpensive tour through a tour group which met outside of the Red Square.

On our way, we passed by the Kremlin gardens and the tomb to the unknown soldier and the eternal flame.

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We soon met up with our group which, fortunately, was only 5 people.  Our guide told us that we were going to visit 8 stations during the 1.5 hour tour.  

Honestly, a lot of the stations blended in to me so I won't be able to give you a detailed description of all of them.  However, I did learn that there are 222 metro stations and the trains come every 2-3 minutes reliably.  For that reason, Moscow > DC. 

One of the first metro stations we visited had bronze statues all over of various depictions.  Many of the statues had superstitions tied to them.  For example, for a statue of the dog, it's held that if you rub the nose of the dog, you'll have good luck.  Consequently, most of the statue is tarnished - except for the nose.  I joked to Tomas that they probably rotate the "good luck" portion of the statue to ensure the entire statue gets polished.

However, I do remember some of the stations.

Novoslobodskaya is a station adorned with stained glass on the walls.

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There was also Belarusskaya, which paid tribute to Belarus.

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Another station which name I cannot remember but had pretty mosaics in the ceilings.

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My favorite station was Komsomolskaya.  It's the busiest station and a hub for other connecting trains.  It was built during Statlin times and he wanted the station to embody beauty to set a good first impression to Russia.

I'd seen pictures of it beforehand since it's the most famous but it's so much more impressive in person.

Look at these ceilings!

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Overall it was a very interesting tour.  Not sure of any other city which could offer a metro tour.  DC certainly can't...

After the tour, we headed back of the hotel to rest for a bit.  We had purchased tickets to a tour hour boat down the Moscow river.  The tickets were good for any time on any day and the boats left every 20min.  We decided to knock the tour out that day and headed over to the pier.  

We arrived at the pier and saw a boat by the company we had purchased from boarding.  We approached and they shook their head and said it wasn't the right boat. 

So we waited for another boat.

Another boat came along by the same company we had purchased from so weapproached them.  Again - we were told it wasn't the right boat and the boat we were looking for was coming.  

A third boat came along which was NOT by the company we had purchased from.  By this point, it had been longer than 20min waiting and I was starting to suspect that the correct boat was actually one of the ones which turned us away.   We approached the 3rd boat to ask if they knew which boat we should be on.  However, when we approached,  they waved us aboard without scanning our tickets.

So, we boarded the 3rd boat....which was definitely not ours.

We settled into an upper deck, open air table to take in the views.

We passed by pretty buildings.

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The somewhat impressive cathedral of Christ the Savior.

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This random statue.

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After about hour on the cruise, Tomas remarked that it had been about an hour so we should be turning around soon.  I reminded him that we actually had no idea how long this cruise was or where we would be dropped off.  Since we were on the wrong boat.

Fortunately, it did turn around and took us back to the pier.  

For dinner, we decided to go to this burger place, Black Star Burger, which our guide told us about.  Tomas really liked his - I thought mine was OK.  It was a decent size patty with a mountain of Cole slaw on top.  We've realized that apparently Russians dislike getting their hands dirty while eating so some restaurants will give out gloves to use.  This particular restaurant gave out black gloves.

Tomas modeling our dinner.

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Since little mum has been asking about pictures which show my feet, I assume she wanted to see my new shoes.  I recently bought Allbirds which are suppose to be super comfortable walking shoes which you wear without socks and can be washed.  I didn't wear them too extensively beforehand, so that was probably my first error.  I also didn't bring another pair of good walking shoes,  which was likely my second error.  The Allbirds were great the first two days without socks.  Midway through the third day, my right foot was quite unhappy. Left foot was a trooper. So, now I have a bandaid on the heel of my right foot and wear socks.  

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    Depends on your engine and tranny Check with the engine manufacturer. My VolvoPenta w/saildrive says to use Reverse but my Perkins 107 manual says to use forward. In lieu of that, try them both and find out which one stops the prop from turning. You want to stop the shaft from turning to prevent excessive wear on the transmission and packing ...

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  22. Tackling Moscow by Train and Boat

    Tackling Moscow by Train and Boat Our first full day in Moscow started fairly late since we were still catching up on sleep. Around 1, we finally were able to get our act together and get out the door. We stopped by a cafe to get some breakfast and headed over to the Red Square. Since the festival is going on, we had to go through metal detectors.

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