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Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Published by rigworks on november 19, 2019.

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me?

From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’…

Forestay (1 or HS) – The forestay, or headstay, connects the mast to the front (bow) of the boat and keeps your mast from falling aft.

• Your forestay can be full length (masthead to deck) or fractional (1/8 to 1/4 from the top of the mast to the deck).
• Inner forestays, including staysail stays, solent stays and baby stays, connect to the mast below the main forestay and to the deck aft of the main forestay. Inner forestays allow you to hoist small inner headsails and/or provide additional stability to your rig.

Backstay (2 or BS) – The backstay runs from the mast to the back of the boat (transom) and is often adjustable to control forestay tension and the shape of the sails.

• A backstay can be either continuous (direct from mast to transom) or it may split in the lower section (7) with “legs” that ‘V’ out to the edges of the transom.
• Backstays often have hydraulic or manual tensioners built into them to increase forestay tension and bend the mast, which flattens your mainsail.
• Running backstays can be removable, adjustable, and provide additional support and tuning usually on fractional rigs. They run to the outer edges of the transom and are adjusted with each tack. The windward running back is in tension and the leeward is eased so as not to interfere with the boom and sails.
• Checkstays, useful on fractional rigs with bendy masts, are attached well below the backstay and provide aft tension to the mid panels of the mast to reduce mast bend and provide stabilization to reduce the mast from pumping.

Shrouds – Shrouds support the mast from side to side. Shrouds are either continuous or discontinuous .

Continuous rigging, common in production sailboats, means that each shroud (except the lowers) is a continuous piece of material that connects to the mast at some point, passes through the spreaders without terminating, and continues to the deck. There may be a number of continuous shrouds on your boat ( see Figure 1 ).

• Cap shrouds (3) , sometimes called uppers, extend from masthead to the chainplates at the deck.
• Intermediate shrouds (4) extend from mid-mast panel to deck.
• Lower shrouds extend from below the spreader-base to the chainplates. Fore- (5) and Aft-Lowers (6) connect to the deck either forward or aft of the cap shroud.

Discontinuous rigging, common on high performance sailboats, is a series of shorter lengths that terminate in tip cups at each spreader. The diameter of the wire/rod can be reduced in the upper sections where loads are lighter, reducing overall weight. These independent sections are referred to as V# and D# ( see Figure 2 ). For example, V1 is the lowest vertical shroud that extends from the deck to the outer tip of the first spreader. D1 is the lowest diagonal shroud that extends from the deck to the mast at the base of the first spreader. The highest section that extends from the upper spreader to the mast head may be labeled either V# or D#.

A sailboat’s standing rigging is generally built from wire rope, rod, or occasionally a super-strong synthetic fibered rope such as Dyneema ® , carbon fiber, kevlar or PBO.

• 1×19 316 grade stainless steel Wire Rope (1 group of 19 wires, very stiff with low stretch) is standard on most sailboats. Wire rope is sized/priced by its diameter which varies from boat to boat, 3/16” through 1/2″ being the most common range.
• 1×19 Compact Strand or Dyform wire, a more expensive alternative, is used to increase strength, reduce stretch, and minimize diameter on high performance boats such as catamarans. It is also the best alternative when replacing rod with wire.
• Rod rigging offers lower stretch, longer life expectancy, and higher breaking strength than wire. Unlike wire rope, rod is defined by its breaking strength, usually ranging from -10 to -40 (approx. 10k to 40k breaking strength), rather than diameter. So, for example, we refer to 7/16” wire (diameter) vs. -10 Rod (breaking strength).
• Composite Rigging is a popular option for racing boats. It offers comparable breaking strengths to wire and rod with a significant reduction in weight and often lower stretch.

Are your eyes crossing yet? This is probably enough for now, but stay tuned for our next ‘Ask the Rigger’. We will continue this discussion with some of the fittings/connections/hardware associated with your standing rigging.

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The Ultimate Guide to Sailboat Rigging Rope

What is sailboat rigging rope?

Sailboat rigging rope is the lifeline of a sailboat , connecting the sails to the mast and allowing the boat to harness the power of the wind.

Essentially, it is a specialized type of rope that is designed to withstand the forces and stresses encountered while sailing.

Why is a rope called a line on a boat?

In nautical terms, a line refers to a rope that has a specific purpose or is used for a particular function.

For example, a halyard line is used to hoist a sail, while a sheet line controls the position of the sail.

By using the word “line” instead of “rope,” sailors were able to clearly communicate their intentions and actions on a boat.

What ropes are used for ship rigging?

When it comes to sailboat rigging ropes, there are a variety of types available, each with its own unique characteristics and applications.

Let’s explore some of the most common types and their uses.

Polyester ropes.

Polyester ropes are popular for their durability, strength, and resistance to UV rays and saltwater corrosion. They are suitable for a wide range of applications, from halyards and sheets to control lines and running rigging.

Dyneema ropes

Dyneema ropes, also known as high-performance ropes, are incredibly strong and lightweight. They are perfect for high-load applications such as rigging and running backstays, where strength and low stretch are crucial.

Sta-Set ropes

Sta-Set ropes are made from polyester and are known for their flexibility and ease of handling. They are commonly used for general-purpose applications like halyards, sheets, and control lines.

Wire ropes, made from stainless steel, provide excellent strength and resistance to abrasion. They are commonly used for standing rigging , such as shrouds and stays, where stiffness and stability are required.

Vectran ropes

Vectran ropes offer high strength and low stretch properties, making them suitable for applications that require minimal elongation, such as halyards and control lines.

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Which type of rope used in rigging is the strongest?

• One of the strongest types of rope used in rigging is Dyneema.

This high-performance rope is incredibly strong and lightweight, making it perfect for high-load applications. Its low stretch characteristics also contribute to its strength, ensuring minimal elongation under heavy loads.

• Stainless steel wire ropes are also known for their exceptional strength.

Made from corrosion-resistant stainless steel, these ropes provide excellent tensile strength and resistance to abrasion.

What are the three ropes on a boat?

On a sailboat, three primary ropes play essential roles in controlling and maneuvering the boat.

The first rope is called the halyard, and it is used to raise and lower the sails.

The halyard connects to the top of the sail and allows you to adjust its position and tension. Common options for Halyard include polyester, nylon, and dyneema.

The second rope is known as the sheet. Sheets are used to control the angle and position of the sails in relation to the wind.

There are typically separate sheets for the main sail and jib or genoa. By adjusting the tension and angle of the sheets, you can optimize the sail’s performance and power.

Common options for sheets include polyester, nylon, and blended ropes.

Control line

The third rope is the control line.

Control lines are used for various purposes, such as adjusting the shape of the sails, controlling the boom, or operating the boat’s various systems.

They are typically found on larger boats with more complex rigging setups.

Generally, control lines need to be strong and durable, with good grip and flexibility. Common options include polyester, nylon, and braided ropes.

How do i choose a rigging rope?

Here is a step-by-step guide to help you make an informed decision:

1. Assess your sailing needs

Consider the size of your boat, the sailing conditions you typically encounter, and your rigging setup. This will help you determine the strength and durability requirements for your rigging rope .

2. Research different rope materials

Look into the characteristics and benefits of materials like polyester, Dyneema, and stainless steel. Understand how each material performs in terms of strength, UV resistance, and corrosion resistance.

3. Determine the appropriate size

Based on your boat size and rigging setup, identify the ideal thickness and strength of rope needed. Larger boats and high-performance rigs will generally require thicker and stronger ropes, while smaller boats may benefit from lighter options.

4. Consider flexibility and handling

Ensure that the rope you choose is easy to work with and provides a good grip. It should be flexible enough to maneuver but not overly stretchy.

5. Consult with experts

If you’re unsure about any aspect of choosing a rigging rope, don’t hesitate to seek advice from professionals or experienced sailors. They can provide valuable insights and help you make the best decision for your specific needs.

What size rope do i need for my boat?

The size of the rope you need will depend on the size of your boat, the specific rigging setup, and the intended use of the rope.

For example a 20 foot sailboat , you would typically need a halyard rope that is around 5/16 to 3/8 inches in diameter. The length of the rope should be long enough to reach from the masthead to the cockpit, allowing for proper hoisting and trimming of the sails.

Generally, a sheet rope with a diameter of 5/16 inch or 3/8 inch should suffice for most sailboats. As a general guideline, the length of the rope should be at least twice the length of your boat. This will allow for proper handling and maneuvering of the sail.

Why is a line called a sheet?

The term “sheet” likely comes from the old English word “sceata,” which means corner or border. The ropes were called sheets because they controlled the corners or edges of the sail.

Over time, the term “sheet” became associated with any rope that controls the position or angle of a sail.

How long should boat lines be?

Boat lines are ropes used for various purposes, such as docking, anchoring, and securing the boat.

A general guideline is to ensure that boat lines are at least 2-3 times the length of your boat. This will provide enough length to handle different docking scenarios and ensure the safety of your vessel.

It’s also a good idea to have a variety of lengths available to accommodate different situations.

Common Problems and Solutions for Sailboat Rigging Ropes

Here are some common problems you may encounter with sailboat rigging ropes and their troubleshooting solutions:

1. Fraying or wear

If you notice any signs of fraying, it’s important to replace the rope immediately to avoid accidents. Regularly inspect your ropes for wear and tear and replace them as needed.

2. Tangling or kinking

To prevent tangling or kinking, always store your rigging ropes neatly coiled and avoid knots or tangles. If your rope becomes tangled, carefully untangle it to restore its proper function.

3. Stiffness or difficulty in maneuvering

If your rope becomes stiff or difficult to maneuver, it may need lubrication. Apply a suitable lubricant to the moving parts of the rope to restore smooth operation.

4. Slippage

If your rope slips or loses tension, you may need to adjust the knot or connection. Ensure that all knots are properly tied and secure, and adjust the tension as needed.

5. Corrosion or rust

Stainless steel wire ropes are resistant to corrosion, but they can still develop rust over time. Regularly inspect your stainless steel ropes for any signs of rust and replace them if necessary.

6. Overloading

Avoid overloading your ropes beyond their recommended weight limits. Be aware of the maximum load capacity of your ropes and use appropriate ropes for heavier loads.

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If you are replacing an existing line, the easiest way to determine what diameter you need is to match what you already have. This can be done with a caliper or by close estimation with a tape measure. For example, if you've previously used a 7mm halyard and it has performed well, another 7mm line is likely a great choice. In most applications, there is some flexibility in the exact diameter that can be used. Most blocks, for example, have an 'ideal' diameter (ie, the line diameter that runs most effectively though the block's sheave) but also have a range so that you can run a slightly thinner or slightly thicker line. If you have a halyard that is getting hung up in your rig, stepping down 1-2mm might help the halyard run more efficiently. If you have a larger boat or rig and want to run a thinner halyard, consider a double braid line that features a Dyneema or Spectra core for strength. A similar approach can be applied to replacing sheets, control lines, and other line on your sailboat.

Double Braid vs Single Braid

Two terms you will often see in line descriptions are 'double braid' and 'single braid', which refer to the way the line is constructed. At the most basic level, a double braid line has a cover and a core whereas a single braid does not, but there are other important distinctions to consider when making a line selection.

Single Braids  are made up of either 8 or 12 strands that are braided into a circular pattern, half clockwise and half counter clockwise. This produces a line that is supple, absorbs twists, and tends not to kink. There are two types of single braid lines: performance single braids and polyester/blended single braids. Performance single braids are made from fibers with very low stretch and designed to handle extreme loads - think Dyneema, Spectra, or Vectran. Polyester/blended single braids, sometimes called hollow braid, are soft and easy to grip, built for sheets and hand-adjusted control lines. These are less common than performance single braid lines but recommended in a few specific applications.

Double Braids , sometimes called braid on braid, have a braided core within a braided outer jacket or cover. This creates a strong, durable, smooth-running line that is easy to handle. Double braids are used for the vast majority of all running rigging on sailboats including sheets, halyards and control lines for both cruising or racing. There are two types to consider: polyester double braids and high-tech double braids. Polyester double braids, found most commonly on recreational and cruising sailboats, have a polyester cover with polyester core. These are low maintenance, affordable, and long-lasting, while offering relatively low stretch and high working loads. For additional strength and minimal stretch, consider high-tech double braids. These lines typically feature a Dyneema or Spectra core (non-stretch) inside a polyester or polyester/dyneema blend cover for additional durability. They are more expensive but often the go to choice for high performance racing boats.

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Welcome to rigging only.

Our www.riggingandhardware.com shop on line site is now open for business. We now have most manufacture's parts up and running. Pricing is current on the riggingandhardware.com site. Pictures and selection guides are rather lacking at this time but we are working on them and will be loading more product and manufacturers asap. As always, don't hesitate to contact us with any questions or to place an order at [email protected] or call (508) 992-0434.

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• We now stock and swage wire up to 5/8 diameter for sailboat standing rigging and architectural wire projects. Larger sizes are available.
• We now stock and swage wire up to 5/8 diameter for standing rigging and architectural projects. Larger sizes are available.
• Metric wire and swage fittings are available for standing rigging applications. We are able to provide swaged standing rigging assemblies as well as mechanical terminals (assembled or you assemble) to meet your needs at an affordable cost. Current stock is 8-10-12mm. Note the bulk of these fittings will have imperial pin and thread dimensions.

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Rigging Redo: A Switch to Synthetic

• By Behan Gifford
• August 23, 2024

Updating the standing rigging on our Stevens 47, Totem , wasn’t an intentional part of the 40-year refit that we recently completed. We had re-rigged in 2019, anticipating our departure to the South Pacific in spring 2020. The pandemic scratched that, and we embarked on a significant refit in 2021 that instead left this rig on saw horses for a year and a half.

Putting the rig back up was among the last tasks during our extended stay at Cabrales Boatyard in Puerto Peñasco, Mexico. As we neared mast-stepping day in November 2023, my husband, Jamie, busted out his rigging kit. That’s how we refer to the 10X loupe that serves as the key for scrutinizing components at a level that human eyes just can’t do without magnification. 

Some halyards showed age and wear, but we already knew this and had a replacement Dyneema/polyester double braid replacement line on hand. The one surprise? Totem ’s backstay.

Our Backstay’s Weak Link

New in 2019, the wire still looked fine, as did the swages. But two Sta-Lok insulators on the backstay —an assembly that enables that aft wire to be used as an antenna for single sideband radio—didn’t. Surface crazing on the black nylon portion of the insulators, which were added in 2008, suggested ultraviolet degradation.

During our 2019 rerig, we chose to reuse the backstay insulators. The fittings inspected well. Some people consider mechanical rigging terminals such as Sta-Lok, Hayn Hi-MOD and Norseman to be indefinitely reusable. They’re not. Jamie considers their lifespan at two rigging cycles (or about 20 years) maximum. Our old insulators met safe criteria, so we saved money by keeping them.

Still, we knew to look out for trouble. In the past few years, friends on two different cruising boats had rig failures due to broken insulators. Both crews practice good seamanship and don’t skimp on safety. Melissa White has written about losing the backstay on Galapagos (in her blog, Little Cunning Plan , and also in 48°N magazine ), three weeks into a passage from Hawaii to the Pacific Northwest. With only 500 nautical miles to Cape Flattery, Washington, their insulator snapped in half in the rolling swells of the North Pacific Ocean. They were in conditions that allowed them to stabilize the rig, and they altered course to a closer point of landfall.

The crew of Miles wasn’t so lucky: When their insulator failed, their rig came down . Never mind the fact that they’d had a rigging inspection only months before, and no faults had been found.

When they dismasted, they were in degrading conditions approximately 100 miles east of Eleuthera, Bahamas. In an admirable effort, they secured the wreckage and bashed overnight to the nearest safe harbor in San Salvador.

So, Jamie took another look at our setup last November, and he condemned Totem ’s insulator. The conclusion was easy, but the decision about next steps was not.

We were days from putting Totem back in the water, looking for a weather window to sail south. Five family members were flying to meet us in a bay 800 nautical miles south of the boatyard. Any delay in stepping would make us late for the family Christmas. Could we get to Puerto Vallarta with the existing backstay, or could the rig be compromised on our trip south?

And, in the time between putting insulators on the new rig in 2019 and wrapping an extensive refit in 2023, we had changed our stance on single sideband use. Once our only offshore communication, the hardware no longer earned a place on Totem because multiple satellite options are available today. Since we weren’t installing the SSB , we didn’t need new insulators. This opened options to consider in replacing the backstay.

One of those options was Dyneema, which is a strong, lightweight line made from synthetic ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fibers. Dynex Dux is Dyneema that’s put through another cycle of heating and stretching to get every fiber in every yarn bundle to be exactly the same length. It’s lightweight, super strong and has virtually no stretch, making it a great alternative to wire for rigging.

We knew this because in 2008, Jamie had installed a Dynex Dux solent stay and inner forestay on Totem . He had also installed a Dux backstay on a friend’s boat in Puerto Rico in 2017, and loved the results.

With Totem now our focus, we reached out to Colligo Marine, the US distributor for Dynex Dux, rebranded as Colligo Dux . Colligo’s founder, co-owner and lead engineer, John Franta, helped us. Picking up the backstay became a perfect excuse for us to drive to Southern California for Thanksgiving with cousins. (Shipping into Mexico is fraught with issues.) Barely a week later, we were on our way back to Mexico with the new backstay in hand.

Shifting forward a few weeks, Totem was in Banderas Bay in time for family Christmas, after a conservative sail south with the old backstay in place. The new one was installed in the slip at Marina Riviera Nayarit. The hardest part of replacing the backstay with the mast up? Detaching and lowering the old backstay, because it was so heavy. The new stay was in place minutes later.

Wire vs. Synthetic Rigging

If Dux is so great, why didn’t we replace all of our standing rigging with it back in 2019?

Well, we did think about it. At the time, Jamie chose wire because of the cost of additional hardware necessary in the shift to synthetic rigging. We simply didn’t have the resources to consider the upgrade.

There are other considerations for a switch to synthetic rigging, too. They include abrasion, chafe, ultraviolet longevity and thermal expansion. Stainless steel wire has just as many issues and is harder to inspect well. Our new backstay was an easy choice this time around because of the weight savings, ease of installation and absence of chafe points.

We’re now getting ready to sail around 2,000 nautical miles from Hawaii to Micronesia. We aren’t sure yet if we’ll make landfall in Tarawa, Kiribati, or sail the slightly shorter distance to Majuro, Marshall Islands. Ideally, we can visit Tarawa first (it’s harder to get there later), but the weather will make the decision for us.

Meanwhile: Totem Talks will be on again before we sail west. For this next free livestream, we’ll have a circumnavigation roundtable with our friend and neighbor here in Hawaii, Dustin Reynolds . He didn’t just circumnavigate: Dustin holds a Guinness World Record for the first solo voyage around the world by a double amputee (arm and leg).Bring your voyaging questions, and sign up to be notified by email for the date of the livestream.

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• Anchor Shackle
• Bolt Chain Shackle
• Bow Shackle
• Chain Shackle
• Long D Shackle w/ Captive Pin
• Long D Shackle w/ Screw Pin
• Round Pin Anchor Shackle
• Round Pin Chain Shackle
• Special Bow Shackle w/ No-Snag Pin
• Special D Shackle with No-Snag Pin
• Stainless Bolt Anchor Shackle
• Straight D Shackle
• Straight D Shackle with Captive Pin
• Twist Shackle (Cast)
• Twist Shackle with No-Snag Pin
• Wide D Shackle
• Wide D Shackle With No-Snag Pin
• Halyard Shackle with Key Pin
• Long D Shackle Shackle w/ Key Pin
• Headboard Shackle w/ Captive Pin
• Stamped D Shackle
• Webbing Shackle
• Survival Bracelet Accessories
• Coarse Thread Closed Turnbuckle Bodies
• Fine Thread Closed Turnbuckles Bodies
• Turnbuckle Body (Forged)
• Turnbuckle Body Cast
• Nuts, Wing & Turnbuckle
• Cast Body Jaw And Eye Turnbuckle
• Forged Jaw And Eye Turnbuckle (Open Body)
• Turnbuckle (Closed Body) Jaw & Jaw
• Turnbuckle (Closed Body) Jaw & Swage
• Turnbuckle (Closed Body) Toggle & Swage
• Turnbuckle (Closed Body) Toggle & Toggle
• Turnbuckle (Open Body-Cast) Eye & Eye
• Turnbuckle (Open Body-Cast) Hook & Eye
• Turnbuckle (Open Body-Cast) Hook & Hook
• Turnbuckle (Open Body-Cast) Jaw & Jaw
• Turnbuckle (Open Body-Forged) Eye & Eye
• Turnbuckle (Open Body-Forged) Hook/Eye
• Turnbuckle (Open Body-Forged) Hook/Hook
• Turnbuckle (Open Body-Forged) Jaw & Jaw
• Turnbuckle (Open Body-Forged) Stud & Stud
• Wire Rope 1 x 19 (304)
• Wire Rope 1 x 19 (316)
• Wire Rope 7 x 19 (304)
• Wire Rope 7 x 19 (316)
• Wire Rope 7 x7 (316)
• Wire Rope Lifeline - 7 x 7 PVC (316)
• Anchor Chain (BBB)
• Commercial Chain
• Lifting Chain
• Stainless Safety Chain
• Proof Coil Chain
• High Test Chain
• Long Link Chain
• Twist Link Chain
• Single Jack Chain
• Double Loop Chain
• Cast And Forged Connecting Link
• Square Quick Link
• Long Quick Link
• Delta Quick Link
• Pear Quick Link
• Clevis Grab Hook
• Clevis Slip Hook
• Eye Grab Hook
• Eye Slip Hook
• Swivel Eye Hook
• Threaded Shank Hook
• Master Links
• Hammerlocks
• Blue Water Cleat
• Stainless Folding Cleat
• Stainless Steel E-Z Push-up Cleats
• Studded Cleat
• Herreshoff Cleat
• Trimline Cleat
• Flagpole Cleat
• Flat Top Cleats
• Lifting Eye Cleat
• Mooring Bitt Cleat
• Bow Chocks, (pair)
• Skene Chocks, (pair)
• Straight Chock
• Bimini Fittings, Deck & Rail Hinges
• Bimini Fittings, Top Caps & Slides
• Bimini Top Cap & Swivel Base
• Rail End Caps (Flat)
• Rail Fittings, Rail Ends
• Rail Fittings, 3-Way Corner
• Rail Fittings, 4-Way Tee and Corner
• Rail Fittings, 60 & 90 Degree Tee
• Rail Fittings, 90 T with Eye
• Rail Fittings, Bow Form & Elbow
• Rail Fittings, End & Center
• Rail Fittings, Rectangular Base
• Rail Fittings, Round Base
• Rail Fittings, Take-Apart Slides
• Rail Tubing
• 6 Inch Deck Access Hatch
• Hinges, Door - Equal & Unequal
• Flush Hinges For Both Doors and Tables
• Hinges, H.D. Flush Strap
• Hatch Hinges
• Hinges, Heavy Duty Offset Door
• Hinges, Strap & Butt
• Hinges, T Strap
• Hinges, Take-Apart
• Hose Deck Fills
• Teak Platforms
• White Poly Swim Platforms
• Through Hull Fittings
• Chain & Deck Pipe
• Stainless Steel Rub Rail Ends
• Stainless Steel Rub Strakes
• Stainless Fairlead and Gasket
• Brackets, 90 Degree Angles
• Door Stop & Catch
• Holders, "Holdall" Spring Clamps
• Holders, Boat Hook Holders
• Hooks, Awning & Fender
• Hooks, Cabin/Clothes
• Barrel Bolt
• Brackets, Folding Table
• Hasps, Padlocks and Locking
• Hatch, Flush Deck Latches
• Hatch, Flush Lift Rings
• Winch Handle Holder
• Utility Wall Clip
• Hawse Deck Pipes
• Transom Drain Plugs
• Floor Drain Plate/Vent
• Louvered Vents
• Antenna Mount, Adjustable Rail
• Antenna Mount, Rail/Surface
• Antenna Mount, Ratchet
• Fishing Rod Holder, Flush Mount
• Fishing Rod Holder, Removable
• Fishing Rod Holder, Side Mount
• Four Tube Fishing Rod Holder
• Stainless Steel Rod Holder, Rail Mount
• Flag/Pennant Staff, Bow Rail
• Folding Boat Step
• Lights, Navigation
• Bow/Stern Eye, U-Bolt
• Fender Hook
• Microphone Clip
• Shore Power Cable Holder
• Ski Tow Ring (Transom Mount)
• Pintles & Gudgeons, Dinghy/Keelboat
• Kong Elastic Tethers
• Machine Swage Pelican Hook With Stud
• Swage Domehead
• Swage Marine Eye
• Swage Marine Fork
• Swage Marine Toggle
• Swage Stemball & Cups
• Swage Stud Terminal
• T Terminals & Plates
• Terminal Gate Eye
• Hand Swage Gate Eye (Non-Swivel)
• Hand Swage Joined Gate Eyes (Non-Swivel)
• Hand swage Joined Swivel Gate Eyes
• Hand Swage Lifeline Adjuster
• Hand Swage Pelican Hook
• Hand Swage Short Stud
• Hand Swage Stud
• Hand Swage Swivel Gate Eye
• Hand Swage Toggle
• Hand Swage Toggle Turnbuckle
• Hand Swage Tool
• Mini Hand Swager
• Thimble, Federal Specification 304SS
• Thimble, Federal Specification 316SS
• Thimble, Heavy Duty
• Thimbles, Extra Heavy Duty
• Thimbles, Standard
• Mini Pulley Blocks w/ 1 Sheave
• Schaefer 3 Series Cheek Blocks
• Schaefer 5 Series Cheek Block
• Schaefer 7 Series Cheek Blocks
• Schaefer M-Series Foot - Cheek Block
• Clamp-on Furling Blocks
• Double Blocks
• Double Blocks with Becket
• Exit Blocks
• Fiddle Blocks
• Fiddle Blocks With Becket
• Fiddle Blocks with Cam and Becket
• Lashing Block
• Schaefer 5 Series Single Blocks
• Schaefer 7 Series Single Blocks
• Schaefer M-Series Single Blocks
• Schaefer Series 3 Single Blocks
• Single Blocks with Becket
• Seine (Snatch) Blocks
• Snatch Blocks
• Square Swivel Eye Blocks
• Rope Sheave (Bushing)
• Rope Sheave with Bearings
• Rope Sheave with Bushing
• Wire Rope Sheave with Bearings
• Wire Rope Sheave with Bushing
• Surface Mounted Block with Sheave
• Swivel Blocks w/ 1 Sheave
• Swivel Blocks w/ 2 Sheaves
• Swivel Eye Blocks w/ 1 Sheave
• Swivel Eye Blocks w/ 2 Sheaves
• Wire Rope Clip, 304 Cast
• Wire Rope Clip, 316 Forged
• Wire Rope Clips, Chair Clips
• Bimini/Webbing Clips
• Boom Bails, Heavy Duty - Forged
• Chainplates
• Clevis Pins
• Fixed Snap Shackles
• Aluminum Stop Sleeve
• Aluminum Swage Sleeve
• Cooper Stop sleeve
• Copper Swage Sleeve
• Stainless steel oval sleeve
• Zinc Plated Copper Swage Sleeve
• Suncor Quick Release Pin Style D
• Suncor Quick Release Pin Style M
• Snap Shackles, Cast Jaw Swivel
• Cunningham Hooks
• Downhaul Hooks
• Heavy Duty D Rings
• Rectangular Rings
• Reefing Hooks
• Round Rings
• Tack (Lashing) Hooks
• Triangle Rings
• Stamped Jaw Swivel Snap Shackles
• Swivel Snap Shackles
• Federal Spec. Jaw and Eye Swivel (AN100)
• Swivels, Eye & Eye
• Swivels, Eye & Jaw
• Swivels, Heavy Duty Eye & Eye
• Swivels, Heavy Duty Eye & Jaw
• Swivels, Heavy Duty Jaw & Jaw
• Swivels, Jaw & Jaw
• Threaded Pelican Hook
• Toggle Pins
• 316 Stainless Steel Rigging Toggle
• 316 Stainless Steel Rigging Toggle Traditional
• Triangular Plates
• Additional Buckles (Non-Ratcheting)
• Nylon Webbing
• Over-Center Buckle Assembly With Clips
• Stainless Ratchet Assmeblies With Flat Hooks And 1" Blue Webbing
• With 1" Webbing
• With 1.5" Blue Webbing
• With 1.5" Webbing
• With 2" Blue Webbing
• With 2" Webbing
• With 1" Blue Webbing
• With 2' Blue Webbing
• With 1" Webbing and S Hooks
• With 1-1/2" Webbing
• Ratchet Buckles
• With 1-1/2" Blue Webbing
• Webbing Assemblies
• Delta Link For Webbing
• Double J Hooks
• Web 'Star' Adjuster
• Web Adjuster Slide
• Web Shackle
• Web Threading Plate
• Welded 'S' Hook
• Webbing Kits and Hangers
• Hand Crimp Lifeline Parts
• Lifeline Wire Rope With PVC
• Suncor Quick Attach Lifeline Kits
• Lifeline Wire Rope, Uncoated
• Stanchions & Brace
• Stanchion Base (Suncor - Cast)
• Pelican Hook
• Stanchion Base (Schaefer - Welded)
• Stanchion Caps
• Stanchion Slide with Eye
• Stanchion Ring
• Stanchion & Furling Blocks
• Forged Eyebolts With No Shoulder
• Forged Eyebolts With Shoulder
• 304 Stainless Steel Unwelded Eyebolts
• 316 Stainless Steel Unwelded Eyebolts
• Metric Stainless Welded Eyebolts
• Standard Stainless Welded Eye Bolt
• Cast Lifting Eye Nut
• Forged Lifting Eye Nut
• Machine Eye Bolt
• Lag Eye Screw
• Lag Ring Bolt
• M6 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M8 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M10 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M12 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M16 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M18 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M20 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• M24 Stainless Metric Shoulder Eye Bolt
• Eyebolts with Rings
• Special Eyebolts
• Asymmetrical Harness Clip
• Harness Clips with Extras
• Heavy Duty Swivel Eye Hook
• Key Lock Spring Clip
• Mooring Hook Kit
• Rounded Harness Clip
• Screw Lock Harness Clip
• Single & Double Swivel Eye Bolt Snaps
• Spring Clip & Eye (Snap Hook)
• Spring Clip & Eye Key Lock
• Spring Clip (Snap Hook)
• Spring Clip w/ Key Lock
• Spring Clip w/ Screw Lock
• Spring Clip w/ Special Gate
• Spring Gate Snap
• Stainless Key Ring
• Trigger Snap
• Unthreaded Shank Hook
• Wide Asymmetrical Clip
• Fixed Eye Snap
• Spring Clip (Wire Lever)
• Swivel Eye Snap
• Asymmetrical Spring Clip
• Double Action Safety Hook, Wichard
• Shock Cord Hooks and Hog Rings
• Anchor Base With Stud
• Heavy Duty Folding Pad Eye
• Hinged/Folding Cast Pad Eye
• Bolt-On Lashing Ring
• Weld On Lashing Ring, Bent
• Stainless Steel Anchor Base With Shackle
• Stainless Swivel Pad Eye
• Stainless Tow Pad Eye
• Stamped Diamond Pad Eye
• Swivel Pad Eye With Ring
• Weld-on Lashing Ring
• Oblong Pad Eyes & Backing Plates
• Pad Eyes, Tie-Down & Footmans Loops
• Heavy Duty/Oblong Pad-eyes
• Stamped Pad Eyes
• Standard Pad Eyes
• Eye Strap Pad Eyes, 2 Hole/4 Hole
• Folding Heavy-Duty Pad Eyes, Forged
• Round Pad Eyes
• Heavy Duty Square Pad Eyes
• Heavy Duty Diamond Pad Eyes
• Large Mast Pad Eyes
• Pad Eyes, Anchor/ Anchor With Swivel
• Pad Eyes, Lifting Ring
• Pad Eyes, Removable Eye Deck Plate
• Side Ring Pad Eyes
• Standard U-Bolt
• U-Bolt w/ Plate (Standard Thread)
• U-Bolt, Bow/Stern Eye
• Long U-Bolt
• Square U-Bolt
• Anchor Points
• Roller Pins
• Stainless Roller Brackets
• Stainless Steel Trailer Tongue
• Stainless Steel Trailer Winch
• Trailer Couplers
• Trailer Hitch Balls
• Trailer Safety Chain
• Trailer U-Bolt
• 12 Volt LED Microstar Lights
• 24 Volt LED Microstar Lights
• LED Tri Star Back Mount
• LED Tri-Star Microstar Light
• LED Tristar Light With Stalk
• Microstar Transformers
• Cutting Tools (Wire Rope & Bolt/Chain)
• Johnson Crimping Tools
• Passivating Fluid
• Stainless Steel Shackler & Bottle Opener
• Steritool Stainless Screwdrivers
• Swage It Swaging Tool
• Stainless Adjustable Wrenches
• Stainless Steel Locking Pliers
• Stainless Steel Spanner Wrenchs
• Hand Riverting Tools
• Steritool Stainless Steel Open End Wrenches
• Anchor Roller, Replacement Wheels
• Anchor Swivel
• Anchor Swivel Multi-Directional
• Anchor Swivel Replacement Pins
• Folding Grapnel Anchors in Various Colors
• Anchor Bracket, Stanchion-Mount
• Anchor Chain Snubber
• Anchor Chocks
• Anchor Tensioner, AT3 Anchor-Tite
• Chain Stopper
• USCG Chain Stopper
• Galvanized Folding Grapnel Anchors
• Horizon Claw Stainless Steel Anchors

Bestsellers

• 1/8" Stainless Steel Delta Quick Link
• Stainless Steel WIRE ROPE 316, 7x7, 1/16", Per Foot

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Lines & Rigging

Cable Railing Systems

Sailboat rigging, custom assemblies.

Welcome we are Cable Industries

We specialize in original equipment manufacturing of steel cable, cord, web, and fiber rope assemblies. Since 1974 our experienced in-house fabricators have been manufacturing assemblies for large and small companies nationwide. Our Inventory Management services ensure that your assemblies are always in stock and ready to ship overnight when needed.

Our process

• Discuss Your Project
• Provide A Quote
• Fabricate & Ship

Inventory Management

Get your critical assemblies when you need them! We provide companies with the option to make extra assemblies and store them in Inventory Management at our facility. This will ensure that you can get critical assemblies shipped to you overnight so your production needs are always met.

For more information on our management solutions, contact us at (844) 947-3767 or email us at customcable@CableInd.com.

Our featured Projects

• February 18, 2016
• Cable Railings
• Installation

Loop the Lake, Menasha & Neenah, WI