windvane sailboat

Kevin Boothby Sailing

Build Your Own Self-Steering Windvane

For the short-handed sailor planning long ocean crossings, a self-steering windvane is not essential but darn close to it. For boats with stern-hung rudders, a self-steering windvane can be constructed with readily available materials and a modest level of skill.

It’s all about leverage. There will be an air paddle which will weathercock to the wind and provide enough torque to move the trim tab which we are going to mount on the trailing edge of the rudder. The trim tab will be a slender, high aspect ratio blade, and we will add some “balance” to it–a little bit of the blade will lead the shaft–all so as to lessen the torque required to move the trim tab when the water is flowing over it and thus increase the amount of leverage the air paddle has over it.

Let’s start with building the trim tab. The trim tab should be somewhere around 10 to 15 percent of the area of the rudder. We decide on the correct diameter of shaft for the blade. In my case this was a 5/8″ diameter stainless steel shaft. We then drill several (say four) holes to take through-bolts which will hold the wooden blade to the shaft. Below is the rough blade held to the shaft with 1/4-20 bolts. Notice the thinner piece on the leading edge, this will give it some balance.

We then permanently attach the blade with the bolts and 3M 5200 and begin fairing:

Following fairing and shaping we will then encase the entire blade in fiberglass roving and epoxy, this will add a great deal of strength and durability.

Now we have to mount it on the end of the rudder. But before we start drilling any holes, we need to work out some geometry. The trim tab must be mounted such that the air paddle will attach at the “no action point”; that is, where the trim tab shaft intersects the axis of rotation of the rudder. This is important because if the air paddle is not attached at this point, the turning of the rudder will wag the air paddle back and forth resulting in poor performance. Hopefully the diagram below will make this clear:

For the gudgeons on the rudder I used 1″ thick pieces of ash which I cut like opened jaws to slide onto the trailing edge of the rudder. They were finally attached with through-bolts and plenty of 3M 5200. For the bottom gudgeon I drilled a slightly oversized hole for the shaft to drop down through. On the inside of the hole I put a few laminates of epoxy and fiberglass roving to minimize friction and make it snug (note: I’ve since inserted a nylon bushing, which works better).

Similarly for the upper gudgeon EXCEPT that I opened the hole to the outboard end so that it formed a “U” and then closed it with a small U-shaped piece of plywood bolted on top and facing inboard (see pics below). Why? So that the trim tab can be removed for servicing.

And finally there is a third gudgeon at the rudder head, which is simply screwed onto a wooden cleat mounted there, again so that it can be easily removed.

Now we have come to the issue of attaching the air paddle. First of all, the air paddle needs to be balanced. This means the axis where the trim tab shaft runs through it is also the center of mass, or if the shaft was held horizontally and the air paddle free to rotate it would not choose to do so absent any wind. Since the plywood air paddle has weight, this will require a counterweight for which I used a regular shaft zinc clamped to a wooden dowel.

With our air paddle and counterweight constructed the last remaining item is the engaging mechanism. I opted for the simplest possible, simply boring a hole up a rectangular piece of timber for the shaft to pass through, and then sawing about halfway up from the bottom (see above photo). The air paddle and counterweight are bolted at the top, while at the bottom, on either side of the bored shaft hole, are 1/4-20 bolts with big handles on them. The opposing nuts are set in epoxy. Thus the air paddle can freely turn on the shaft until I tighten the bolts, when it clamps onto the shaft and the windvane is thus engaged.

And that’s it.   So far this vane has steered me over 30,000 miles.  I can get it to work in winds down in the 3-6 knot range, and then it has steered the boat while running before a gale under bare poles.   In order to work well in light airs the gudgeons must be greased from time to time.  This can easily be accomplished in the water while donning a mask and snorkle.   Just lift the trim tab up a few inches (it cannot actually pop out of the bottom gudgeon before the blade runs up against the upper gudgeon–with the little plywood cap on, of course), clean, grease, and set back down. 

Now one peccadillo I have found with this type of steering vane is the tendency to over-steer. It tends to shove the helm too fast and too far on either side, causing the boat to sail a slalom course. One cure for this is to attach shock cords to your tiller lashings which will greatly dampen the effect. The size and setup of the shock cords will vary from boat to boat. Here is my current setup shown below:

Latest Posts

Conquer nature, kill god.

Our long and difficult relationship with nature needs to be understood in a first hand way. Sunshine State Politics January, 2024 Thus far my sailing sojourn to Florida and the Keys has been spectacular. I’m not merely talking about the weather, which of course comes as a welcome change from November in New England. The…

First my story (sorry to bore you) The solitary reader supplies his own assessment of his relationship to those he meets in print. This can result in some unpleasant reckonings with reality, yet by the same token, the lover of literature may become confident enough about everything he has worked out in his mind as…

The Quota Women of the Ocean Race

Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion is now queen of the seas “I Wasn’t a Quota” Margaret Thatcher famously bristled at the suggestion that her rise to power and ability to rule had anything to do with her sex. In a 1993 interview with NPR she is quoted as saying: “Well, I would like (the assessment of)…

“The Future is Female” Has Us All Going Broke

Modern feminized women are taught that men are either tyrants or incompetent boobs, so it’s better to rely on the government, as the government has the power to coerce men to hand over their money and to punish them for unacceptable behavior. Part I: The Assemblywomen I regard it as a matter of course that…

Something went wrong. Please refresh the page and/or try again.

Share this:

• Already have a WordPress.com account? Log in now.
• Subscribe Subscribed
• Copy shortlink
• Report this content
• View post in Reader
• Manage subscriptions
• Collapse this bar

• Skip to primary navigation
• Skip to main content
• Skip to primary sidebar
• Skip to footer

Yacht Cruising Lifestyle

Everything fun you can do from your yacht

Why You Need a Wind Vane for Your Sailboat

September 24, 2021 by Travis Turgeon 1 Comment

Many of today’s offshore cruising sailboats utilize a type of autopilot equipment called a windvane. A sailboat wind vane is a mechanical self-steering system that requires no electricity, fuel, or manpower to operate. It’s the perfect addition to bluewater cruisers and offshore sailboats. While a mechanical self-steering wind vane can’t hold you on a compass course, they’re more accurate than human steering over long distances. By reducing the overall mileage of a passage, you’re able to save time and money on your journey. Alternatively, a windvane is essential for short-handed or single-handed sailing. It gives the skipper a much-needed break from the helm when conditions allow.

How Does a Wind Vane Work on a Sailboat?

Mechanical wind vane systems are relatively simple in concept. Once mounted at the boat’s transom or somewhere along the stern, wind prompts the elevated vane to adjust the rudder or wheel steering system, putting your sailboat back on a wind-based course dictated by the captain. The idea is that you won’t have to make constant adjustments in variable winds. Automatic adjustments reduce boat heeling and allow your vessel to remain trim in the water. 

In other words, wind vanes use wind and water resistance to return a ship to course when wind chages direction.

Sailboat Windvane Gears Vs. Electronic Autopilot Systems

Two primary self-steering systems are standard for bluewater cruisers and offshore sailboats: wind vane steering gears and electronic autopilot systems. Both systems have advantages, and many sailors choose to install both systems on their boats. 

Electronic Autopilot Systems 

Electronic autopilot systems are the modern answer to self-steering. They’re easy to use, work without wind, and are an excellent option for near-shore cruising and short-term offshore sailing. Autopilots are also compatible with multi-hull vessels, unlike windvane systems. 

The downfalls to these systems can be daunting, though. Electronic systems are complex and have numerous parts: displays, wiring, plotters, motors – the list goes on. To run an electric autopilot system, you’ll also need a generator. Most even have two generators, using one as a backup for reliability. As you’d expect, they also come with a higher price tag. 

Self-Steering Wind Vane Systems

Windvane steering systems take a more traditional approach to self-steering. They rely on the wind to operate your boat on the desired course. Wind vane steering systems require no electricity, little maintenance, have few moving parts. They also come in several variations to fit your boat in the best way possible. Another massive benefit of a mechanical sailboat windvane is its robust build. This allows reliable and powerful performance in heavy weather conditions. 

There are also several downfalls to a windvane system. They do not work in the absence of wind or under power, can add weight and stress to the boat stern, can be initially expensive to purchase, and won’t work on multi-hull vessels. 

Types of Sailboat Wind Vane Systems

All wind vane systems direct a boat to a wind-based course, but they each do it differently. 

Servo-Pendulum Wind Vane 

Servo-pendulum windvane systems are the most common commercially available system, and they are a favorite among most sailors. The reliability for offshore sailing is a huge selling point. It re-affirms why these are the “classic” wind-driven autopilot systems. 

Main steering servo-pendulum systems have control lines running from the primary steering quadrant to a wheel or tiller. As the wind pushes the pendulum, it directs the boat’s steering by way of the primary rudder. Because of this, the system is solely dependent on the power of the wind. The stronger the wind blows, the more force the system provides to push the boat back on the desired course. 

Rudder steering servo-pendulum systems have the pendulum rudder connected to the primary boat rudder. It works almost the same as the “main steering system,” with a few minor differences. The wind pushes the pendulum rudder to the side, forcing water to pull the boat’s main rudder to change steering. The advantage of this system over the prior is that it involves fewer mechanical components, making it easier to check issues and fix any problems. The disadvantage is that it can be a bit trickier to set.

One of the biggest downfalls of either servo-pendulum system is that the pendulum rudder can not replace an auxiliary rudder. Unlike an auxiliary rudder, its one-dimensional operation makes it unable to run the system if the primary rudder fails. These systems can also create a cluttered cockpit due to the lines running from the steering quadrant. Lastly, servo-pendulum systems generally require more consistent maintenance and more common repairs. 

Auxiliary-Rudder Wind Vane

Unlike servo-pendulum steering systems, auxiliary-rudder wind vanes are entirely independent of all other aspects of the boat. Instead, the main rudder is locked, and the auxiliary rudder steers the vessel after setting a powerful windvane to the desired angle. The main rudder is often locked to the left of center or slightly at an angle to balance the helm. One of the most significant advantages to these systems is that if the primary boat rudder fails, the auxiliary rudder can act as a replacement to steer the boat. 

There are some important considerations to make when purchasing auxiliary-rudder wind vane steering gear. First, auxiliary-rudder windvanes put a significant amount of stress on the vane, making it vital that the model and components are well designed and made of quality materials. If you can source well-made parts, there is minimal risk while out at sea. There are very few moving parts and no critical lines attached to the system. Second, these systems are big, heavy, and bulky. Having such a massive piece of equipment at the stern of the boat isn’t always ideal in every scenario. Lastly, auxiliary rudders can be awkward to operate when the mizzen is in use on ketch-rigged vessels.

Trim-Tab Wind Vane

Trim-tab windvanes are less common than they used to be after the emergence of the steering technologies listed above. The system works by attaching a “tab” to the main rudder. The small surface of the trim tab makes it easy for the wind to move it from side to side, which then forces water over the primary rudder in the opposite direction to keep the boat on course. Those with the appropriate skills and know-how can even construct a trim-tab themselves, although we recommend that they do not rely entirely on a self-made system. 

The major drawback to trim-tabs is that the ability to fine-tune the system is somewhat limited in heavy conditions. 

How to Install a Sailboat Wind Vane System

Installing a wind vane on your boat is relatively easy, but it still takes a bit of planning. 

Initial Considerations

All windvane models require installation at the center of the boat’s transom or as close to the center as possible. Depending on which system you choose to run, you may need to account for the steering lines that operate the system. Steering lines are approximately a quarter of an inch in diameter and need a clear path from the wind vane to the boat wheel. You may redirect the lines with steering blocks, but be aware that each block adds friction and lessens the overall efficiency of the steering system. 

Balancing the Boat

Windvane gears adjust the course of a boat using the wind force at the surface. For this to happen efficiently, you’ll first need to ensure your boat is balanced and sailing as intended. Take your time to get the weight distributed evenly. You’ll also need to reef the sails appropriately so as not to be overpowered. 

Adjusting the System for the Conditions

Regardless of the system, nearly all sailboat wind vanes have one or more adjustment features so that you can optimize performance in various conditions. When wind conditions are relatively light, you should expose the vane as much as possible so that the system receives the most force as possible. In heavy winds, however, you can lower the windvane to reduce the impact on the system. In some cases, the wind vanes have sensitivity adjustments where the vane meets the pivot, so you may not need to adjust the height as weather conditions change. 

How to Engage a Sailboat Wind Vane System

Most wind vanes are relatively adaptable and can adjust to fit a variety of hull types. Some vanes are even customizable to bolt directly onto the boat. As with any other object you bolt to your hull, plan to through-bolt everything with the appropriate bedding and backplates for maximum security.

Operating a sailboat wind vane is far less complicated than you might expect. There are four standard steps to engaging a windvane:

• Deploy the Gear : To do this, attach the wind paddle and unfold the rudder to be placed in the water. Doing this should only take a few minutes at most. 
• Connect the Control Lines : Control lines run from the windvane to the boat wheel and may have steering blocks included in the setup. The system may require you to make a few knots or use some hardware, but again, it’s a relatively easy process once you’ve completed it once or twice. 
• Balance the Boat and Set a Course : With the wind vane deployed, balance your boat, set the course to the desired point of sail, and adjust the windvane to engage the steering. 
• Evaluate the Course and Adjust as Needed : Adjust the vane to steer more accurately after evaluating your approach. Course adjustments are made by rotating and trimming the paddle to match your course.

Perfectly balancing your boat is one of the easiest ways to make your self-steering wind vane more efficient in the water. A vessel with poor balance or trim will not just sail inefficiently, but it will put unneeded stress on the wind vane system.

Have more questions about sailboat windvane systems and how you can best implement them on your boat?  Reach out to the #Boatlife community on our forum  with questions or comments!

If you found this article helpful, please leave a comment below, share it on social media, and subscribe to our email list.

For direct questions and comments, shoot me an email at [email protected]

Sharing is caring!

Reader Interactions

June 12, 2022 at 5:44 pm

Thanks for the useful information. However, you didn’t mention anything about the usefulness of wind vanes in light or downwind sailing. You mentioned the issue of a mizzen and auxiliary rudder, how do I understand that (as we sail a ketch and thinking about installing a Hydrovane.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

MB #20512 PO BOX 480 Sevenoaks Kent TN13 9JY

Tel: +44 56 0386 9163

Keep In Touch

Thank you for reading.

Join our online crew and find more about the #boatlife

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Windvane steering: why it makes sense for coastal cruising

• Will Bruton
• October 15, 2018

No electricity needed, built for gale-force conditions and currently experiencing 
something of a renaissance amongst 
cruisers; windvane self-steering makes sense for coastal cruisers as much as 
offshore voyagers. Will Bruton took 
an in depth look at the options 
and how they work.

‘The distance run was 2,700 miles as the crow flies. During those 23 days I had not spent more than three hours at the helm. I just lashed the helm and let her go; whether the wind was abeam or dead aft, it was all the same: she always stayed on her course,’ wrote Joshua Slocum in 1895.

The ability of his long-keeled Spray to hold course without input from the helm was instrumental 
in making her the first yacht to circumnavigate single-handed.

Few modern boats bear these inherently balanced characteristics, so some form of autopilot is necessary to allow the skipper to rest.

Even for crewed passages, it can take an enormous strain off the crew without draining the battery. Some insurance companies even count windvane steering as an additional crew member, such is its contribution to life on board.

Unlike an electronic autopilot, self-steering needs no power

One solution experiencing something of a renaissance, is windvane self-steering.

Requiring no electricity, mechanical self-steering gear was first designed in an age when autopilots were the preserve of large ships and heavy motor cruisers. The principle is relatively simple and pure physics.

What mechanical self-steering cannot do is hold your yacht on a compass course. However, as anyone that’s experienced a sudden wind shift or squall whilst away from the helm knows, steering to a wind angle is preferable most of the time as you are far less likely to crash gybe, and the sails remain correctly set.

Self-steering gear achieves this by presenting a vane directly into the wind. When the wind acts on either side of this vane, it tips, transferring this action through the mechanism below to either a rudder or a servo pendulum which acts on the main rudder, altering the boat’s course.

The two main systems

Servo-pendulum

A derivative of the servo-trim tab principle invented by Blondie Hasler, servo-pendulum self steering gear uses the speed of the yacht going through the water to push against the servo-paddle, creating a substantial force, which is then transferred to the yacht’s own tiller or wheel by control lines.

The wind itself does not provide the power for the steering; rather it adjusts the angle of the paddle, relying on the hydro-mechanical energy of the boat going through the water to do the work of steering the boat.

Popular before the advent of the small craft electronic autopilot, it’s particularly well suited to yachts under 40ft in length, and can be swung out of the water when not in use.

There are now several derivatives, including some available as a self-build kit. Amongst the Golden Globe Race entrants, models included Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort systems.

One disadvantage of the servo-pendulum gear is that it uses the yacht’s rudder, meaning it does not double up as an emergency rudder should the yacht’s steering be disabled, although some servo-pendulums can be adapted.

Direct drive systems

Wind vane steering linked to a secondary rudder is the most inherently simple of the mechanical self-steering systems, but relies on a much more powerful transmission of force between a large-surface-area wind vane and the system’s own independent rudder.

Direct drive systems feature a large fully independent auxiliary rudder

This has the advantage of ensuring 
a back up steering method is already on board but also requires a heavy-duty installation to bear the load and strain that will be exerted.

One of the most popular models is the Hydrovane, which is now available in several different sizes and shapes depending on 
the boat it is being installed on.

The size 
and shape of the fabric-covered windvane is directly proportional to the size of yacht, and has been installed successfully on yachts in excess of 50ft in length, including multihulls.

When the boat veers off course, the 
wind hits the vane on one side or the other, deflecting it away from the vertical.

This then acts on a gear that converts 
this sideways movement into rotation to directly steer a relatively large rudder suspended from the boat’s transom via 
the installation framework.

Setting up windvane steering

Balancing the boat.

‘Before doing anything, you have to get the boat sailing well. It demands you take the time to get your boat properly balanced, correctly reefed and with no weather helms; so it actually makes you a better sailor!’ explains Nick Nottingham, who recently fitted a Hydrovane to his Hallberg-Rassy 42, Spellbinder . Nick is about to use the system on an Atlantic circuit.

Self-steering relies on a well balanced boat. As the wind shifts, the mechanism corrects

Self-steering gear works by adjusting the yacht’s course in relation to the apparent wind. The first step to making this work as efficiently as possible is to balance the boat and reduce the amount of input required.

Sailing conventionally, the yacht should be easy on the helm and not overpowered.

Setting the system for the conditions

Whether servo-pendulum or direct drive, most self-steering systems have one or more methods of adjustment for the conditions. In light airs, the wind vane will be exposed as much as possible to the wind, to exert the maximum force on the system, whereas in heavier weather, the vane’s height can be lowered, reducing the force acting on the system.

Some systems, like the Hydrovane, Monitor and Beaufort have different sized vanes that can be swapped, while the Windpilot and Aries allow the vane to be raked aft, presenting a shorter level.

With the wind vane attached, you are ready to remove the locking pin and engage the steering mechanism

On some set ups, the power exerted on the steering system can also be adjusted at the point where the wind vane meets its pivot, just like changing sensitivity on an electronic autopilot. By controlling the rotation of the rudder or paddle created by the windvane, you control how aggressively the system corrects the boat’s course.

Changing the gearing at the point where the wind input creates the steering output achieve an increase or decrease of ratio.

Engaging the system

To engage the system, set the yacht on course and adjust the wind vane so that the wind is flowing over it with the least resistance, like a blade.

If you a using a system with its own rudder, centralise and lock the yacht’s main rudder, simultaneously engaging the self-steering mechanism.

Once engaged, monitor how the system adjusts and double check your sails are trimmed correctly.

As the vane moves it will adjust the steering accordingly.

In heavy weather, reduce the system’s power to ensure the least amount of strain.

Self-steering systems work efficiently in strong winds but most will steer comfortably in light airs as well.

Course adjustments

When the wind vane is vertical, you are on course. When the vane is deflected, the system is adjusting course.

Changing the direction you want to go in is simply a matter of altering the self-steering system’s vane angle relative to the wind.

On most systems this is achieved by a steering line that can be run into the safety of the cockpit, meaning you do not necessarily need to adjust the vane itself directly.

Make small adjustments until the yacht comes onto the desired course, trimming the sails appropriately.

A standalone system?

Whilst self-steering systems offer a much more resilient option than an electronic autopilot for heavy weather, when there is no sailing wind, they cease to be useful.

Here an electronic tillerpilot has been plugged directly into the Hydrovane auxiliary rudder

For this reason, most cruisers also have a conventional electronic autopilot on board to steer under engine.

In the case of systems incorporating a rudder, many also make it possible to easily engage a tiller pilot onto the system’s auxiliary rudder for use under engine.

Self-steering on the Golden Globe Race

If there’s one place that mechanical 
self-steering fandom bordered on the evangelical this year, it was at the start of 
the Golden Globe Race .

50 years previously, Robin Knox-Johnston’s world first single-handed circumnavigation was steered by his own self-steering gear system until it failed 
near Australia.

Restored to her former glory, 
Knox-Johnston’s Suhaili joined the parade; along with Indian competitor Abhilash Tommy’s replica yacht Thuriya , which sports a commercially made Windpilot servo-pendulum system.

Self-steering gear on Suhaili. Credit: Nic Compton/Alamy Stock Photo

With this year’s revival competition using 1960’s technology and electronic wizardry strictly prohibited, mechanical self-steering systems are effectively the only option for competitors. Each has chosen carefully.

Competitors in the race are using a variety of systems including Hydrovane, Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort.

Due to the nature of the boats competing being long keeled, they are ideally suited to mechanical self-steering, naturally holding course better than a modern hull. However, should systems fail and prove unrepairable, it will be hard 
for them to remain competitive in the race.

Enjoyed reading this?

A subscription to Yachting Monthly magazine costs around 40% less than the cover price .

Print and digital editions are available through Magazines Direct – where you can also find the latest deals .

YM is packed with information to help you get the most from your time on the water.

• Take your seamanship to the next level with tips, advice and skills from our experts
• Impartial in-depth reviews of the latest yachts and equipment
• Cruising guides to help you reach those dream destinations

Follow us on Facebook , Twitter and Instagram.

Introduction

Imagine sailing – powered by the wind, and steered by the wind. Just you, your boat, the wind and the ocean. Hydrovane has been steering dreams for over 50 years. We would be delighted to be a part of yours.

…the windvane will make a comeback as a new generation of eco-aware sailors begin to reassess the value of simplicity and a brilliant piece of kit that needs no power.” – David Glenn, Editor of Yachting World

What is a Hydrovane?

Hydrovane is both:, a self steering windvane system.

A completely independent mechanical system (ie. non-electrical) that steers the boat on a wind-based course. Easiest to operate, with no lines in the cockpit, and excellent on all points of sail and in all conditions.

An Emergency Rudder/ Steering System

Inherently a second Rudder and Steering System for your boat.

How do I set it up  TO STEER?

Four easy steps:.

• Trim the sails to the course – so the boat is comfortable holding that course
• Set the vane with its leading edge into the wind – as if “in irons”
• Lock main rudder in the ‘on course’ position that compensates for, or eliminates any weather helm
• Click the Hydrovane into gear – just move the ratio knob from neutral into gear

… The Hydrovane rudder is then steering the boat!

As the boat falls off course, the apparent wind angle changes and drives the vane over. The movement of the vane is linked to turn the Hydrovane rudder down below to bring you back on course.

As with any windvane, you are being steering on an apparent wind-based course, an angle to the wind. As the wind shifts, your heading will also shift. A wind based course is ideal for offshore sailors because it means your boat is always trimmed properly. In the tradewinds, we’ve experienced days on end without having to touch the vane.

To adjust your heading, simply pull on the ‘remote course setting line’ that is set up within reach of the cockpit, to adjust the angle of the vane to the wind. Trim your sails according to the new point of sail.

What will a Hydrovane do for me?

Be a dependable extra crew member.

• On duty 24 hours a day to steer the boat
• Quietly and naturally performs its duties … needs no attention, no food, and never talks back!
• Consumes no power… reduces your reliance on charging systems and electronics
• Is the primary workhorse of all your passages
• Just as diesel engines have not replaced sails as the best method of crossing an ocean, autopilots cannot beat the quiet reliability of mechanical self steering

Allow you to Enjoy Short-Handed Sailing

• User friendly – users marvel that when put into gear that it ‘just works’ with no tedious tuning required
• Gives you added confidence in your boat and equipment
• Improves the vessel motion – with the main rudder locked in a position that eliminates weather helm the boat becomes naturally stable
• Allows you time and energy to tend to tasks other than steering
• Greatly reduces your daily power consumption when not running an autopilot – or allows you to use that power elsewhere

Provides Peace of Mind for the “What If’s”?…

• Autopilot fails
• Batteries are low
• Engine won’t start
• Steering broken
• Main rudder lost
• Crew incapacitated

The Hydrovane quells all these fears.

We invite you to feel the freedom of sailing with a Hydrovane. Whether it’s ten miles or thousands of miles, Hydrovane will steer you safely. For ease of use, versatility, and reliability, Hydrovane surpasses all other systems.

Let Hydrovane be your best partner in achieving your dream.

Windvane Self Steering Webinar

Sarah and Will Curry recorded this webinar in March 2021 as part of the World Cruising Club ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) Preparation series.

This webinar is an introduction to windvane self steering, a Hydrovane demonstration, and includes a Q&A period at the end from viewers all over the world.

Autopilot vs Windvane Self-Steering (Which Is Better)

Sailing by yourself can be a strenuous task. There are plenty of things that can go wrong and you will need to fix some of those immediately. Who is going to steer the boat when you need to fix something? Thankfully, we have multiple options these days when it comes to the boat steering itself.

This article will discuss Windvane self-steering and autopilot options for your sailboat. We will discuss how they work, the average cost, how to operate them, and which one we would recommend, so keep reading to find out more!

What Is A Self-Steering Windvane? (How it Works)

A Self-Steering Windvane is used on sailboats to maintain a chosen course of sail without constant human action on the wheel or tiller. The wind vane is locked in position after the boat has been put on course and the sails are trimmed correctly.

The self-steering windvane is a great invention that has helped sailors all over the world. It has allowed sailors to allow the boat to steer itself without any electronics needed. This is strictly a mechanical self-steering setup. There are two types of windvanes to be discussed, Servo-Pendulum and Auxillary Rudder.

Servo-Pendulum

The servo-pendulum setup involves using the boat’s current rudder. An enhancement if you will, of the servo-trim tab principle invented by Blondie Hasler, the servo-pendulum uses the speed of the boat going through the water to push against the servo-paddle, creating a substantial force, which is then transferred to the boat’s wheel by the control lines.

The servo paddle is not steering the boat exactly, it is controlling the boat’s wheel or tiller which then turns the main rudder. The main rudder was designed to steer the boat in all conditions and should be utilized whenever possible.

When it comes to selecting the best windvane there are a lot of options out there. One of the more popular options is the CapeHorn.

A great reason to select CapeHorn is because of its custom fittings. They can fit any sailboat out there and will custom design it to fit yours perfectly. Check out this video of a CapeHorn install by Sailing Uma! Subscribe to their channel as well, they make amazing videos.

This video showed a great install of the CapeHorn. They are quite handy and even accomplished this while floating out in the bay. They seem to make everything look easy. This is not the only option for windvanes though. Keep reading to find out about the Auxillary Rudder setup.

Auxillary Rudder

The auxiliary rudder is another very popular type of windvane system for sailboats. It does differ slightly from the servo-pendulum option in a few ways. The main difference between these two is that the auxiliary rudder setup actually steers the boat from the windvane, not like the servo that just turns the wheel. This option also has a secondary rudder or auxiliary rudder at the back of the boat attached to the windvane itself.

This is nice to have in case something were to happen to your main rudder rendering it inoperable. You could always use this as your backup. It even has an attachment so you can steer it by hand. One other great thing about this model is the off-center mounting option. Most people will have a swim ladder in the center of the transom, if that were the case, NO WORRIES, this can be mounted to the side of your transom. I think that is one of the coolest features of this setup. Check out the video below to see this Hydrovane in action.

As you can see from the video above this is a great windvane setup. It will depend on your actual situation and the boat you have to decide between a CapeHorn or a Hydrovane. Just remember to do your research. There are a lot more options out there. I just find these two to be the best.

Now that we have talked about a couple of different types of windvanes, the non-electric autopilots, let’s discuss an actual electric autopilot and see if they compare.

How Does Autopilot Work On A Sailboat?

Autopilots work with 4 components, a compass/sensor, an ACU (autopilot control unit), a control head, and a drive unit. When the control head is set to a specific heading, the drive unit will move the rudder according to the sensor, and keep the boat on the selected course.

There is a lot more detail and components to autopilot but the above description gets the point across. . There are other options that can steer the wheel or even a tiller, but the most common option is the one connected to the rudder.

Make sure to get the correct size autopilot for your specific sailboat

Yes, autopilots come in different sizes. Boats vary in size and so do autopilots. When you are out sailing and the sea starts to get rough, your autopilot motor will have to work harder to maintain the course, putting more strain on the motor. If the strain becomes too much it could fail and lose its course. You would then have to climb out of the cabin in the bad weather and take the helm. It is recommended to purchase an autopilot that is rated for 20% more than your boat’s total displacement. Remember 20% more, minimum.

This is why you need to check the manufactures rating and make sure it is sized for your vessel. I personally recommend getting one that’s a little bigger than needed to help compensate for those rough seas. If you are going to be lake sailing only, I wouldn’t worry so much about size, but for open oceans, then definitely make sure it will handle crazy waves and winds.

There are a couple of different types of autopilots, above deck and below deck. It’s pretty obvious what they mean but let me elaborate just a touch. Below deck autopilots will have the drive motor that moves the rudder accordingly. They are mounted in the hull of the boat near the steering mechanism. With this setup, you will need an autopilot controller mounted somewhere in the cockpit for setting your autopilot on the correct heading.

If you go with an above-deck type of autopilot it will be much easier to access and probably have the controller built into it. One example of this is the tiller autopilot. The tiller is mounted near the tiller and then attached to the tiller with the autopilot rod. The autopilot has the controller built in to set the course. There are also wheel autopilots that can be mounted above the deck as well.

Autopilots are great when they work. I have read a ton of articles and seen plenty of youtube videos about autopilots and it seems like they work half the time. You have to understand these are electrical devices with a motor and many different items can break. Most of the YouTubers that I follow have both a windvane and an autopilot for this very reason. I do know some people that haven’t had any problems with their autopilot so take everything I say with a grain of salt. I just prefer windvanes since they require no electricity, and are usually very easy to repair.

If you would like to watch a video about a marine autopilot and how it works check out the video below.

The video above gives a great description of how autopilot works and how to compare it to a human at the helm, which I thought was a great comparison.

If you have read this far you may be thinking which one should I get, a windvane or an autopilot. Keep reading to find out.

Is A Windvane Better Than An Autopilot? I Say Yes!

The windvane will keep your boat on the correct heading without electricity. There are no electric motors or wiring needed to operate a windvane. If the windvane were to fail, it would be much easier to diagnose the problem and fix it quickly at sea.

When it comes to deciding which option is better, I personally think windvanes are better. I like that they don’t require any electricity. This makes it great for those cloudy days at sea when you can’t charge your batteries.

They do great in rough seas and high winds. The autopilot will use more electricity when the seas are rough draining your batteries even more. If the winds get too much for the CapeHorn, they actually provide you with a stainless steel windvane to swap out. This windvane can handle those high winds with no problem.

Another thing to look at is the price!

You can expect to spend around $5000+ dollars for a winvane by CapeHorn or Hydrovane. This is definitely a lot of money to spend, but from what I have found, they can last a lifetime.

Autopilots tend to be a little cheaper. I found the Raymarine Evolution EV-200 Sailing Vessel Linear Autopilot Pack for $3699 dollars. This model is designed for a mid-size sailboat. The autopilot is definitely cheaper but if it breaks, how much will it cost to fix it?

I am not going to give you a huge list of the different types and prices because there are just too many factors that affect these two things. Just remember to do your research and shop around for the best price.

In Conclusion

This article discussed windvanes and autopilots and how they compare. Windvanes come in a couple of different options, servo-pendulum, and auxiliary rudder. The servo controls the wheel of the boat and the auxiliary controls the boat by becoming a second rudder. Both are good options, it will just depend on what you are looking for. The autopilots are usually a little cheaper but can break down more often. The price will depend on so many factors it is hard to say exactly. I recommend the windvane approach but that is my personal opinion. Do what is best for your situation always! Cheers!

Boatlifehq owner and author/editor of this article.

Recent Posts

How to Repair a Sailboat Hull: Step-by-Step Guide

Maintaining your sailboat's hull is crucial for ensuring its longevity and performance on the water. Hull damage can occur due to various reasons, such as collisions, grounding, or general wear and...

10 Steps For Anchoring Your Sailboat

Anchoring a sailboat is a fundamental skill every sailor must master. Proper anchoring ensures your boat remains secure, preventing it from drifting and potentially causing damage. Whether you're...

Steering Wind Vane: A Guide to Efficient Sailboat Navigation

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 28, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer steering wind vane:

A steering wind vane is a device used in sailing to maintain a desired course by harnessing the power of the wind. It uses a balanced vane to align itself with the apparent wind direction, which then activates the vessel’s rudder to steer accordingly. This allows sailors to navigate without continuous manual input, making long voyages more manageable and safer.

How does a Steering Wind Vane Work?

Title: Unlocking the Mysteries of Steering Wind Vanes: A Marvel of Nautical Engineering

Introduction: Sailing across vast oceans, harnessing the power of wind, and exploring uncharted territories have always fascinated humanity. To achieve such feats, intricate devices like steering wind vanes were developed. In this article, we’ll unravel the inner workings of these ingenious contraptions and discover how they flawlessly navigate through the open seas.

1. Understanding Steering Wind Vanes: When it comes to sailing vessels, manually steering them can prove to be a daunting task during long-distance voyages. This is where steering wind vanes come into play. These mechanical marvels provide an automated solution for sailors seeking reliable guidance in any weather condition.

2. The Forces at Work: Now that we’ve grasped the purpose of a steering wind vane let’s explore how it manages to maintain an accurate course amidst gusty winds and tumultuous waves. As its name suggests, this intricate device harnesses the power of wind to control a vessel’s rudder.

3. Utilizing Aerodynamics Principles: Steering wind vanes cleverly exploit basic aerodynamic principles to ensure precise steering for sailing vessels over long durations without requiring human intervention constantly. The device incorporates carefully designed surfaces that capture relative airflow changes and translate them into meaningful instructions.

4. Mechanical Magic: The Rudder Connection: A vital component within a naval vessel’s steering mechanism is the rudder—a movable surface attached to a vertical axis below water level at the stern (rear) end of a boat or ship. Steering wind vanes are masterfully engineered to connect with this pivotal rudder system through various linkages—creating an intelligent partnership with nature’s forces.

5. The Masterful Art of Balancing Forces: The key principle behind steering wind vanes lies in balance – ensuring incoming airflow generates corrective forces that steer the vessel back on track as per desired direction set by the navigator. By skillfully manipulating angles and surface areas, these devices ensure that changes in wind direction are promptly translated into appropriate rudder movements.

6. Sensing the Magic: The Power of Vane Orientation: To detect wind direction, steering wind vanes are equipped with a vane or a set of interconnected blades positioned perpendicular to the vessel’s longitudinal axis. This ingenious design allows for quick orientation changes as even small deviations can generate significant force discrepancies that initiate corrective actions.

7. Clever Self-Centering Mechanisms: Sudden gusts and varying wind pressures can momentarily steer sailing vessels off course—a challenging issue for unmanned navigation systems. To overcome this hurdle, steering wind vanes are often engineered with self-centering mechanisms. These mechanisms counterbalance external forces, allowing the engineering marvel to reset itself in its default position effortlessly.

8. Keeping it Simple Yet Reliable: One of the unique traits of steering wind vanes is their mechanical simplicity coupled with exceptional reliability. Due to their lack of dependence on electronic components, they remain unaffected by power failures or electronic malfunctions—which is crucial for long voyages where power resources might be unreliable or limited.

Conclusion: Steering wind vanes serve as marvelous examples of human ingenuity meeting nature’s raw energy source—wind—to guide massive sailing vessels across vast oceans reliably and efficiently. Their intricate designs, leveraging aerodynamic principles and intuitive linkages with rudders, make them invaluable companions for sailors determined to explore uncharted territories while upholding traditional naval techniques.

Step-by-Step Guide to Installing a Steering Wind Vane

Step-by-Step Guide to Installing a Steering Wind Vane: Master the Art of Harnessing the Power of the Wind!

Welcome aboard, fellow sailors and wind enthusiasts! Are you ready to embark on an awe-inspiring journey that will allow you to navigate with the help of the magnificent wind? Look no further, as we present to you our detailed professional guide on installing a steering wind vane. Prepare yourself for adventure!

Step 1: Understanding the Basics

Before diving into this exciting project, it’s crucial to grasp the fundamentals. A steering wind vane is designed to harness the natural force of the wind and provide autonomous steering control for your vessel. This ingenious device not only ensures smoother sailing but also frees up your hands so you can sit back, relax and marvel at nature’s wonders.

Step 2: Selecting the Perfect Spot

Finding the ideal location for installing your steering wind vane requires careful consideration. Aim for an unobstructed area on your boat where it can efficiently capture consistent winds without any interference from masts, booms or other equipment. We recommend choosing a spot that provides easy access for adjustment and maintenance.

Step 3: Collecting Your Tools

Next up, gather all necessary tools like wrenches, screwdrivers, cables, mounting brackets, and most importantly—a strong cup of coffee (because even professional sailors need their caffeine fix!). Make sure you have everything at hand before starting your installation process. The golden rule here is preparedness!

Step 4: Diagram Sensation – Instruction Accommodation

Delve into the world of diagrams as they will be your trusty companions throughout this voyage. Familiarize yourself with each component and its designated place through an instruction manual specific to your chosen brand or model. Oh yes, we know manuals might not always be captivating reads but think of them as secret maps guiding you towards smooth sailing triumphs.

Step 5: Mounting the Wind Vane

Brace yourself, skilled mariners! It’s time to get your hands dirty. Begin by attaching the mounting brackets securely in place, ensuring a stable foundation for your wind vane. Precision is key here – aligning it correctly will help you achieve accurate readings and uninterrupted navigation.

Step 6: Connecting the Cables

Just like tying up loose ends on a sail, connecting the cables of your steering wind vane requires meticulous attention to detail. Follow the diagram provided with utmost care, ensuring all connections are snug and secure. Double-check for any loose ends before taking off into the boundless sea of adventure.

Step 7: Calibration Dance

Ahoy, ye intelligent navigators! This step is crucial for setting sail smoothly towards precision-guided travels. Calibration refers to fine-tuning your steering wind vane to adapt to different wind conditions. Adjust parameters such as sensitivity, response speed, and rudder alignment based on manufacturer specifications and real-time tests in variable winds.

Step 8: Test Voyage Extravaganza!

You’ve boldly braved the stormy seas of installation—the moment has finally arrived! Set sail on a test voyage with your newly installed steering wind vane. Embrace that sense of adrenaline-fueled anticipation as you marvel at this magnificent creation controlling your vessel effortlessly through intelligent wind-driven mechanisms.

Voilà! With our witty yet professional walkthrough, you’ve successfully mastered the art of installing a steering wind vane! May you embark upon countless odysseys fueled by the power of the wind while navigating uncharted waters like a true seafaring maven. Remember to embrace each adventure wholeheartedly and continue expanding your knowledge of sailing prowess with every new horizon discovered. Happy windsurfing!

Common FAQs About Steering Wind Vanes Answered

Title: Common FAQs About Steering Wind Vanes Answered: Unraveling the Mystery Behind Effective Wind-Powered Navigation

Introduction: Steering wind vanes have long intrigued sailing enthusiasts, navigators, and curious minds alike. These remarkable instruments allow boats to harness the power of the wind for efficient and reliable navigation. However, a range of questions often arise when it comes to understanding how steering wind vanes work and their various applications. In this blog post, we will dive into the most common FAQs surrounding steering wind vanes, unraveling their secrets in a detailed, professional yet witty and clever manner.

1. What is a Steering Wind Vane? A steering wind vane is an ingenious mechanical device used by sailors to maintain the course of a boat based on the direction and intensity of the wind alone. It essentially acts as an automated helmsman, taking away the need for constant human intervention while sailing.

2. How Does a Steering Wind Vane Operate? Unlike conventional autopilot systems that rely upon electronic components or GPS signals, steering wind vanes embody simplicity at its finest. They utilize an intricate balance of aerodynamic forces to steer a vessel accurately based purely on apparent wind direction—an invaluable feature when electronic aids fail or are simply not available.

3. Why Should I Choose a Wind Vane System over Other Autopilot Options? Wind vane systems come with several advantages over traditional autopilots that make them preferred choices for many sailing enthusiasts. Unlike electronic systems that consume valuable power resources or can malfunction due to electronic interference, steering wind vanes are independent from any external power source or communication networks.

4. Can Steering Wind Vanes Be Used in Various Weather Conditions? Absolutely! One of the most impressive aspects of these devices is their adaptability to challenging weather conditions such as heavy winds or rough seas. In fact, they often shine brighter when other navigation solutions falter—transforming adverse conditions into opportunities for smooth progress.

5. How Do Steering Wind Vanes Adjust to Variable Winds? Wind vanes are designed to adjust automatically by utilizing their mechanical structure, which undergoes slight shifts to adapt to changing wind directions. These adaptations allow the sailboat to maintain a steady course and efficient navigation even when wind conditions are unstable or unpredictable.

6. Are Steering Wind Vanes Compatible with Different Boat Types and Sizes? Definitely! Steering wind vanes can be fitted onto a wide range of boat types and sizes, making them a versatile solution for both pleasure and commercial vessels alike. From agile racing yachts to sturdy cruising boats, there is a wind vane system suitable for every sailor’s needs.

7. Are Steering Wind Vanes Easy to Install? Although installation requirements may vary depending on the specific wind vane model chosen, most systems are designed with user-friendliness in mind. With comprehensive instructions provided by manufacturers, DIY installation is often achievable for individuals with basic mechanical skills—a rewarding experience that adds a personal touch to your sailing setup.

Conclusion: Navigating through the seas powered solely by the wind brings an exhilaration unmatched by any other means of transportation. With steering wind vanes acting as reliable helmsmen, sailors can embark on adventures knowing they have harnessed the power of nature without compromising control or efficiency. Hopefully, this witty yet informative exploration of common FAQs has shed some light on steering wind vanes’ remarkable capabilities and whetted your appetite for exploring these amazing devices further. Happy sailing!

Essential Features to Consider When Choosing a Steering Wind Vane

Choosing the right steering wind vane for your boat is essential to ensure smooth sailing and a comfortable journey. With so many options available in the market, it can be overwhelming to make the right choice. To simplify this process, we have curated a list of essential features that you should consider when selecting a steering wind vane for your vessel.

1. Durability: One of the primary factors to consider while choosing a steering wind vane is its durability. Investing in a sturdy and long-lasting vane ensures that it can withstand harsh weather conditions and continue functioning optimally over an extended period. Look for materials such as stainless steel or aluminum, which offer excellent resistance against corrosion and wear.

2. Sensitivity: A good wind vane should be responsive to even slight changes in wind direction. Opting for vanes equipped with high-sensitivity features will ensure accurate measurements, enabling precise adjustments to your boat’s course. This sensitivity plays a crucial role in maintaining stability during challenging weather situations.

3. Versatility: It would be wise to select a steering wind vane that works well under various wind conditions, including light gusts or strong winds common at sea. The ability of the vane to adapt easily to different environmental factors guarantees consistent performance throughout your voyage, regardless of unexpected shifts in weather patterns.

4. Ease of installation: Let’s face it; nobody wants to spend hours struggling with complicated installation procedures while embarking on an exciting journey at sea! Opting for a steering wind vane with straightforward instructions and user-friendly mounting systems not only saves time but also minimizes any potential stress or frustration associated with setting up the device.

5. Size and weight considerations: Choosing an appropriately sized steering wind vane based on your boat’s dimensions is crucial for optimal performance and efficiency. Additionally, taking into account the weight of the device becomes vital as it may affect overall stability and maneuverability.

6. Maintenance requirements: In the world of sailing, we all love smooth sailing experiences. Therefore, selecting a steering wind vane that requires minimal maintenance can ensure hassle-free adventures on the water. Look for features such as self-lubricating components or easily replaceable parts to cut down on time and effort spent on upkeep.

7. Price: While price should not be the sole determining factor, it is important to consider your budget when choosing a steering wind vane. Compare different options based on their functionality and quality in relation to their cost. Striking a balance between affordability and value for money is key.

In conclusion, when looking for a steering wind vane, keep these essential features in mind – durability, sensitivity, versatility, ease of installation, size and weight considerations, maintenance requirements – to make an informed decision that enhances your sailing experience. Happy sailing!

Troubleshooting Tips for Steering Wind Vane Users

Are you a proud owner of a steering wind vane, but finding yourself facing some perplexing issues? Fret not! Our team of experts has compiled a comprehensive list of troubleshooting tips that will have you sailing smoothly in no time. So buckle up and let’s dive into the world of steering wind vanes together!

1. Aligning Woes: One common issue faced by steering wind vane users is the misalignment of their device. If you notice your boat veering off course or struggling to maintain a straight line, it might be time to check your alignment. Start by ensuring that the vane itself is parallel to the centerline of your boat. Additionally, verify that all tension lines are correctly adjusted and not hindering the vane’s movement.

2. Vague Sensitivity: Poor sensitivity can be incredibly frustrating for any sailor. If your steering wind vane seems unresponsive or overly sensitive, we’ve got you covered! Begin by analyzing the balance point of your sailboat – it should align with the loads exerted by the vane system for optimal performance. Making adjustments here can help find that sweet spot between responsiveness and stability.

3. The Art of Trim: Often overlooked, proper sail trim plays an essential role in maximizing the potential of any steering wind vane system. Ensure that your sails are trimmed appropriately, allowing for efficient airflow and reducing unnecessary strain on both vessel and device alike. Balanced sails equate to improved performance and decreased workload for your trusty wind vane!

4. Taming Tricky Conditions: Sailing enthusiasts know all too well that weather conditions can change rapidly, leading to complexities in utilizing steering wind vanes effectively. When confronted with gusty winds or challenging waves, consider adjusting your device’s reaction time or increasing damping options if available on your particular unit – this will help maintain stability throughout various conditions.

5. Spring into Action: Has your spring-loaded mechanism lost its bounce? Don’t be disheartened! Springs may eventually wear out or lose tension due to prolonged use. Replacing worn-out springs can revive the responsiveness of your steering wind vane, making it feel brand new and ready for any adventure!

6. Communication Breakdown: No, we’re not talking about relationship advice – we’re referring to a breakdown in communication between your steering wind vane and your autopilot or chart plotter system. If you rely on electronic navigation aids, ensure that all connections are secure and check for any software compatibility issues. It’s always wise to have a backup plan as well, so manual override options should never be neglected.

7. Maintenance Matters: Like any other piece of equipment, periodic maintenance is critical for keeping your steering wind vane in excellent working condition. Regularly inspect all mechanical components for wear and tear and lubricate moving parts as necessary. A little TLC goes a long way in ensuring longevity and reliability.

So there you have it – our top troubleshooting tips for steering wind vane users! By following these suggestions, you’ll be back on track with smooth sailing adventures ahead. Remember, even the most experienced sailors encounter challenges along the way; what sets them apart is their ability to troubleshoot and overcome obstacles with finesse!

How Can a Steering Wind Vane Improve Your Sailing Experience?

Sailing enthusiasts are constantly seeking ways to enhance their sailing experience – whether it’s for leisurely day trips or adventurous long-haul voyages. One of the most valuable additions to any sailboat is a steering wind vane, designed specifically to optimize sailing performance and make your time on the water even more enjoyable. In this blog post, we will delve into why a steering wind vane is an essential investment for all sailors.

First and foremost, let’s address the question on everyone’s mind: what exactly is a steering wind vane? In simple terms, it’s a mechanical apparatus mounted on the stern of a sailboat that uses wind power to steer the vessel in the desired direction. Essentially acting as an autopilot system, the wind vane responds directly to changes in wind direction, allowing sailors to relinquish control temporarily and focus more on enjoying their surroundings.

So how does this nifty contraption improve your sailing experience? Let us count the ways:

1. Effortless Steering: Picture yourself effortlessly gliding across tranquil waters with minimal effort required from you – just sit back and relax! With a reliable steering wind vane guiding your sailboat’s every move, you can leave behind tedious manual steering processes and truly immerse yourself in the joy of sailing.

2. Perfect Course Keeping: Maintaining a steady course while battling fickle winds can be exasperating even for seasoned sailors. Thankfully, with a well-calibrated steering wind vane onboard, you can bid farewell to constant course adjustments. The device ensures accurate tracking by continuously monitoring prevailing winds and making necessary corrections in real-time.

3. Extended Cruising Range: Long-distance voyages often come with various challenges, but navigation need not be one of them. A properly functioning steering wind vane allows sailors to cover more ground without compromising safety or enjoyment. Consequently, you can explore new horizons, discover remote anchorages, and indulge in picturesque sailing destinations previously unreachable due to navigational stress.

4. Safety First: Sailors understand the importance of safety at sea. A steering wind vane serves as a reliable backup system and reduces the risk of accidents caused by fatigue-induced human errors or distractions while steering manually. This peace of mind allows sailors to wander off deck momentarily or rest assured that their boat’s course remains steady even during rough conditions.

5. Ultimate Energy Efficiency: As a responsible sailor, preserving resources and minimizing energy consumption are likely high on your priority list. A steering wind vane aligns perfectly with these concerns as it harnesses the natural power of wind without relying on electricity or fuel. By utilizing only renewable energy sources, you can reduce your ecological footprint while enjoying endless hours of sailing bliss.

Now that we have explored the myriad ways a steering wind vane improves your sailing experience, it’s time to consider investing in one if you haven’t already. The market offers various options tailored to different sailboat sizes and designs, so finding the perfect fit for your vessel should be a breeze.

Remember, by equipping your sailboat with a steering wind vane, you’re not only enhancing your own enjoyment but also embracing innovation that enhances the timeless allure of sailing. So go ahead – let the wind take charge while you savor every moment aboard!

Recent Posts

• Sailboat Gear and Equipment
• Sailboat Lifestyle
• Sailboat Maintenance
• Sailboat Racing
• Sailboat Tips and Tricks
• Sailboat Types
• Sailing Adventures
• Sailing Destinations
• Sailing Safety
• Sailing Techniques

The Windvane

The steering impulse in a windvane gear comes from the windvane. The vane takes its energy from the apparent wind flowing across its surface at the angle set. There are two types of vane, the horizontal vane and the vertical vane.

The Vertical Vane How it works

The Vertical or V vane rotates about a vertical axis (the same principle as a weather vane). It always points directly into the wind, so the effective windvane area (the area actually subject to the action of the wind) is never very big. When the boat strays off course the windvane is deflected by no more than the amount in degrees of the deviation. The steering impulse generated by this deflection can only deliver a limited amount of force since a V vane generates little torque.

Adjusting a V vane to the wind direction could hardly be easier: when free to rotate, it always points exactly into the wind and requires no special setting. It can be adjusted for different wind strengths just by moving it in or out along its mounting bracket. Increasing the distance between the vane and its shaft (longer lever) gives increased power for light airs. Reducing the distance (shorter lever) helps to reduce vibrations in the vane gear in heavier airs when power is not a problem.

Air flow across a vertical windvane is always laminar, so aerodynamic sections or wedge-shaped designs with flow separation edges are the most efficient shapes. Not only are both alternatives heavy but they are also complex and expensive to build, so almost all manufacturers prefer simple flat designs.

V vane, Windpilot Atlantik auxiliary rudder system

V vanes need to be quite large in area (up to 1m2 / 10 V2 ft2) to enable them to deliver satisfactory steering impulses as well as the necessary steering force. They take up a quite alot of space on the transom owing to their size and turning circle, so permanent backstays, mizzen masts and davits can easily get in the way.

Wedge-profile V vane, Saye's Rig Counterweight

Because of its substantial size and weight, a V vane should be perfectly balanced by a counterweight. This is particularly important in the light air position since otherwise steering impulses can be generated by the heel of the boat. It is less critical in the heavy air position when the vane is up against its shaft because the stronger winds will exert enough force to counter any disturbance from the motion of the boat.

Availability

The following use vertical windvanes: Halser, RVG, Saye's Rig, Schwingpilot, Windpilot Atlantik/ Caribik.

The Horizontal Vane How it works

A horizontal or H windvane rotates about a horizontal axis. When it is pointing directly into the wind it stands upright. When the wind strikes it from the side, i.e. when the boat is off course, it tilts to one side. What distinguishes this type of vane is the fact that when a course deviation occurs the wind strikes it over the whole of one face rather than just along the leading edge. As a result it has a substantially larger effective windvane area. H vanes are therefore able to exert considerably more leverage than V vanes and are said to be about 5.6 times as efficient.

Almost all horizontal vanes have adjustable fore and aft inclination. The upright position offers maximum effective area for the wind, which is desirable in light air. Inclining the vane aft, away from the wind, as the wind strength increases helps to reduce lateral swinging movements, allowing the gear to operate more smoothly.

Because a horizontal windvane obtains its force from the wind striking the side of the vane, there is nothing to be gained by using anything other than a flat section.

Mounting and removal

Many of today's horizontal vane systems use plywood vanes fastened to some kind of mounting bracket. Plywood is a relatively soft material so to prevent damage in strong winds there should ideally be a large contact area between the mounting bracket and the vane. The vane should also be easy to remove as the lazy skipper will otherwise be tempted to leave it fitted even in harbour, leading to unnecessary wear or breakage when it is not even in use. Many ARIES vanes have been left in place for years once the skipper realised removal entailed disassembling the entire locking device. The Sailomat 601 gear has the windvane inserted into a slotted aluminium tube, an arrangement that provides very little contact area between the mounting bracket and the vane. Monitor vanes are removed by undoing a pair of bolts. The Windpilot Pacific mounting bracket provides a large contact area with the vane and has a slot which allows quick removal of the vane once the locking device has been loosened one complete turn.

H vane, Windpilot Pacific Plus double rudder system

Counterweight

A horizontal windvane needs to be perfectly balanced by a counterweight to prevent spurious steering impulses caused by the motion of the boat. In practice this means the counterweight should be very slightly heavier (between 10-30 g / 1/3-1 oz heavier is normally sufficient) than the vane it is intended to balance. Some sailors attach rubber bands to the counterweight on traditional servo-pendulum systems to help restore the windvane to its neutral position. While this measure can offset the substantial inertia of the push rod, it does not increase the sensitivity of the system.

Because of its considerably greater efficiency, an H vane can be much smaller than an equivalent V vane. It is possible to change vanes according to wind strength, but this only works if the counterweight is changed at the same time. In any case, modern servo-pendulum gears are sensitive enough that one vane is adequate for the whole range of wind strengths. Almost all manufacturers specify an H vane area of 0.17 m2 for servo-pendulum gears and 0.25 m for auxiliary rudder systems.

Plywood has several practical advantages as a material for H vanes. It is light, cheap and robust and a plywood vane can easily be replaced using tools common on most boats. Be prepared to replace the vane. Weigh it and note the result - every replacement vane must weigh exactly the same. A plywood vane can be lightened simply by sawing a piece off. If you must have a larger windvane especially for light airs, the weight can be kept down by cutting large holes in the vane and covering them with spinnaker cloth.

■ Tip: A strip of spinnaker cloth (approx. 2.5 x 80

cm) stuck to the upper aft corner of the vane works wonders in light airs. Its fluttering action accentuates the movements of the plywood vane, which can otherwise become a little lethargic in very light conditions.

A horizontal windvane generally offers a smaller effective working surface to the wind and is easily handled and removed. H vanes also require relatively little operating space. They generally have no problem with yawl and ketch rigged yachts and even davits rarely interfere.

A strip of spinnaker cloth stuck to the vane works wonder in light airs.

Continue reading here: Damping

Was this article helpful?

Related Posts

• Autopilots for different purposes Holiday and weekend sailing
• Salomatsystem types and - Wind Steering Systems
• Building a new boat - Wind Steering Systems
• Multihulls Catamarans - Wind Steering Systems
• The first windvane steering system
• Servopendulum systems - Wind Steering Systems

Readers' Questions

How mechanical wind vane steering work?

How does wind vane works?

A wind vane, or weather vane, is a device used to measure the direction of the wind. It consists of a weather-resistant material, usually metal, a central spindle, weight-bearing spinning vanes, and an arrow or similar indicator. As the wind blows, the vane begins to spin, causing the arrow to point in the direction of the wind. The stationary base of the wind vane remains facing the same direction no matter which way the wind is blowing, allowing the arrow to indicate the direction of the wind.

• BOAT OF THE YEAR
• Newsletters
• Sailboat Reviews
• Boating Safety
• Sails and Rigging
• Maintenance
• Sailing Totem
• Sailor & Galley
• Living Aboard
• Destinations
• Gear & Electronics
• Charter Resources
• Ultimate Boat Giveaway

Sorting Out Self-Steering Options

• By Darrell Nicholson
• Updated: December 6, 2001

It seems unfair to regard the self-steering windvane—a device that we often view as another member of our crew—as merely a collection of metal, space-age plastics, and cloth or wood. But for anyone considering buying a windvane, such details merit a closer look.This month, we’ll compare the design and construction of some of the most popular servo-pendulum models on the market today. In a second installment next month, we’ll review alternative windvane designs, including trim-tab and auxiliary-rudder systems.

Servo-pendulum vanes can be broken down into three main components: the sensor vane, the pendulum rudder, and the linkages. The sensor vane is the brains of the self-steering system, but it needs apparent wind to work. Downwind sailing in light air—when apparent wind may be only a whisper—is one of the biggest challenges for a windvane steering system.

Sensor vanes are of two types: horizontal axis or vertical axis. The latter respond like the weathercock on a barn roof, rotating so that the leading edge of the vane always faces the wind. All of the self-steering devices we’ll look at have the more powerful horizontal-axis vanes. The helmsman turns the vane’s leading edge into the apparent wind once the sails are trimmed and the boat is balanced on the desired course. When the boat veers off course (or the apparent wind shifts), the wind strikes the flat side of the vane, tilting the vane on its horizontal axis and triggering the forces that steer your boat back on track.

Although called horizontal-axis vanes, the axes of the vanes we’ll look at are actually angled about 20 degrees from horizontal, away from the wind. This slight angle brings air flow to the lee side of the vane as it tilts, effectively damping the vane’s motion, reducing yaw, and permitting a more accurate steering impulse.

A sensor vane will have a counterweight to ensure proper balance, which becomes more critical in light airs, when the boat’s roll can cause the vane sensor to tilt on its own.

Another essential part of the sensor vane is the set of control lines, or knob, that allow you to adjust its position when you’re setting a new course relative to the wind. You should be able to do this quickly and easily from a safe position in your cockpit, preferably one protected from the weather.

A critical feature to look for in the vane is sensitivity. Any friction at the vane’s axis will inhibit performance in light airs. Many manufacturers supply smaller, heavy-weather vanes or larger, light-air vanes to improve performance in those conditions. You should be able to quickly change or replace the vane without using tools or worrying about losing a thumbscrew overboard. Vanes are generally lightweight and fragile under impact, so carry spares. On some models, you can make replacement vanes from plywood or cloth.

A final consideration is space. Radar arches, davits, or other accessories on your stern shouldn’t restrict the sensor vane’s movement or block airflow.

Power Stroke

Beneath the water, servo-pendulum windvanes rely on pendulum rudders (also called servo-rudders) to provide the muscle for course corrections. When a change in apparent wind tilts the sensor vane, it tells the servo-rudder to turn. Because the servo-rudder is suspended like a pendulum above the water, when it turns, hydrodynamic forces cause it to swing outboard. The substantial force generated by the swinging pendulum rudder is then transmitted to the wheel or tiller. Slowly rotate the broad face of a dinghy oar toward a 4-knot flow of water and you’ll have an idea of the power a pendulum rudder can generate.

Just as the vane requires apparent wind, the pendulum rudder relies on the boat’s motion through the water to do its job. Most manufacturers say that you’ll need at least 2 to 2.5 knots to generate the power needed for steering, although point of sail, sea conditions, and boat’s characteristics will affect this. The faster your boat moves, the more powerful the force that the servo-rudder delivers.

A good servo-pendulum rudder will be semibalanced and have a hydrodynamic profile so that it’s sensitive to the slightest impulse from the sensor vane. Minimizing friction is essential, particularly any friction on the servo-rudder’s main shaft, which the relatively weak impulse from the sensor vane must turn. The servo-rudder should have overload protection—a device that gives way during a collision—so that the windvane, its mounts, and the stern of your boat don’t bear the full impact. Freeing seaweed or a snagged fish trap from a servo-rudder should be quick and easy. You should be able to lift or fold the rudder out of the water and put it back in action while at sea. The pendulum rudder and its shafts must be rugged and resist corrosion.

One final consideration concerning the underwater unit is its ability to serve as an emergency rudder. Most pendulum servo-rudders are too small to steer the boat alone when used as an emergency rudder. Some manufacturers provide larger rudders that can be slipped over the servo-rudder in an emergency. If you’re going to use a servo-pendulum rudder as an emergency rudder, make sure its hull-attachment points are well reinforced because they’ll be subjected to much higher loads.

The Connections

If the vane sensor is the brain of the windvane, and the pendulum rudder provides the muscle, then the linkages are the nerves, the messengers that relay information between them. Two important linkages govern the windvanes we’ll look at: the one between the sensor vane and the pendulum rudder, and the one between the pendulum rudder and the boat’s rudder.

The linkage between the sensor vane and the pendulum rudder has two roles. The first is to efficiently relay every twitch in the sensor vane to the pendulum rudder. In a servo-pendulum vane, this means transforming the vertical motion at the vane sensor into the rotary motion at the servo-rudder. Because the vane’s signal may not be particularly strong, minimal friction here is important. Any play in the linkage will also interfere with an accurate steering impulse. Usually, this linkage is accomplished through bevel gears, levers, and/or rods, and manufacturers use plastic bushings, roller bearings, or ball bearings (often in plastic races) to reduce friction in the linkages. Bushing advocates tout resistance to dirt and corrosion; proponents of roller or ball bearings boast superior performance. In either case, this linkage should be durable, since its components can be hard to repair or replace at sea.

The second role of this linkage is to coordinate just how far the pendulum rudder will swing in relation to the vane’s movement. This helps determine how much helm will be applied to the ship’s rudder. For example, the 2-to-1 ratio of the bevel gears linking the horizontal vane to the pendulum rudder, common to many windvanes, doubles the force of the sensor vane’s impulse and halves the lateral motion of the pendulum rudder. One of the vanes we’ll look at allows you to adjust the ratio of this linkage to suit conditions.

The second linkage is between the pendulum rudder and your boat’s rudder. In most servo-pendulum vanes, this is usually accomplished by low-stretch lines led from the servo-rudder to the tiller or wheel. These lines attach to the servo-rudder either above or below its point of suspension (the horizontal axle or shaft on which the pendulum rudder swings). Manufacturers have long debated which is more effective; heavy-weather performance is an especially contentious issue. Makers that attach steering lines below the point of suspension, such as Aries and Monitor, lead the lines through struts that prevent the rudder from swinging out of the water and losing power in severe seas or a near broach, when lateral loads might be extreme. The opposite camp—including Sailomat, Windpilot, and Fleming, among others—contends that allowing the rudder greater swing room protects the gear from breaking under extreme lateral loads, makes it easier to swing the rudder up in port, permits more direct leads for steering-control lines, and allows for a more compact design. The compromises in either arrangement vary among boat designs. Look for a windvane that you can install in a way that maximizes the range of movement in the steering line—usually about 10 inches—and minimizes friction.

The linkage between the servo-rudder and the main rudder should be easy to disengage under load so that the helmsman can quickly take over. Again, reducing friction here is important. Large, lightweight, roller- or ball-bearing blocks with swivels—if needed—cut friction and ensure direct runs. Proper line tension, which may vary according to sea conditions, should be easy to adjust. Wheel-steered boats add more challenges: the added friction in the connection to the rudder and the “freewheel effect” of the wheel’s inertia. Attaching a windvane to a wheel-steered boat requires an adapter (usually with a clutch) mounted on the wheel. Most wheel-steered boats are compatible with servo-pendulum vanes, although they generally won’t respond as well as tiller-steered boats. Boats with hydraulic steering generally aren’t good candidates for servo-pendulum vane steering, although vanes have worked on hydraulic systems that have bypass valves. To accommodate those boats that are incompatible with traditional servo-pendulum designs, manufacturers are turning to auxiliary-rudder designs, which we’ll look at in the next installment.

The Choices

The primary differences among today’s servo-pendulum rudders are in construction materials, the linkages, and the ways they dampen the motion of either the vane or the pendulum rudder (yaw damping) so that he boat’s rudder receives an accurate steering impulse from the vane. Here are some of the main distinguishing features of the vanes we looked at in this class.

Aries: Apart from minor alterations, the Aries’ basic design has remained unchanged in nearly 30 years, and it’s earned a reputation as being rugged and reliable. Originally built in England and now manufactured in Denmark, the first mass-produced servo-pendulum windvane serves as a good standard for measuring those that have followed. Its formidable construction—cast aluminum, extruded-aluminum tubing, silicon bronze, and stainless steel—makes it one of the heaviest windvanes in this group. Galvanic corrosion can make cleaning or servicing troublesome on older, neglected models, but 20-year-old vanes that function perfectly are not uncommon. By turning a single screw, you can easily replace the plywood vane or angle it backward to dampen motion in higher winds. The vane swings on nylon roller bearings. Two lines control a toothed wheel that clicks with each adjustment and positions the vane to the apparent wind at 6-degree intervals. The servo-rudder is a semibalanced rudder made of foam-filled fiberglass. On older models, a breakaway tube on the rudder shaft affords 360-degree overload and collision protection. Newer models are protected from forward impact with a hinged shaft that eases raising or complete removal of the rudder. The vane-to-pendulum rudder linkage is a relatively heavy forked-aluminum rod linked to beveled silicon bronze gears with a 2-to-1 ratio. Nylon bushings at swivel joints also reduce friction on this linkage. The bearings for the pendulum rudder shaft are solid-plastic composite sleeves. The transmission lines are attached below the point of suspension, through built-in nylon blocks.

Monitor: Featured in the BOC Around Alone and popular among cruising sailors, the Monitor is quite similar to the Aries. The main difference is its construction: 1.9-inch-diameter, .049-inch-thick 316L stainless-steel tubing that avoids the galvanic problems of the Aries. It also features additional Delrin roller and ball bearings (as opposed to bushings in the Aries) in its vane-to-rudder linkage and in the pendulum rudder shaft. About five years ago, Monitor upgraded from 304 to 316L stainless steel. To protect the gear from impact, later models feature strut guards that also reinforced its substantial frame. Its sensor vane (angled 20 degrees) is plywood, easily replaceable, and can be infinitely adjusted by a line leading to the cockpit. A light-air sensor vane is standard. The rudder shaft is protected 360 degrees by a replaceable safety tube that collapses under extreme loads or impacts. Scanmar, the California manufacturer and dealer for several vanes, is known for good customer support and maintains a record of every Monitor. The Monitor has an emergency-rudder system that can be mounted on the pendulum rudder.

Sailomat 601: Sailomat’s fourth design in its familiar series of servo-pendulum vanes differs from the basic Aries design. The steering-control lines are attached above the pendulum’s point of suspension so the lines don’t need to cross before reaching a tiller. Remote course control for the vane position is optional. Forward impact protection is with a plastic composite sheer pin, and lateral overload protection is built in by its design, which allows the pendulum rudder to swing 170 degrees side to side—also useful when you’re in port or motoring. Rather than rely on bevel gears for the linkage from the sensor vane to the pendulum rudder, the Sailomat uses a universal linkage and a ball-and-socket joint, with solid Delrin bearings to reduce friction. This variable linkage allows you to adjust the vane-to-rudder ratio to suit varying wind and sea conditions. Yaw damping is provided by the angled pendulum rudder blade, which neatly follows the lines of many reverse transom boats. Body construction is cast silumin (an aluminum alloy) that’s chromated, wash primed, and painted with two coats of polyurethane paint. The solid, 1.6-inch-diameter shaft and large-diameter tubing (2.4-inch diameter with .24-inch wall thickness) is made of 6061 T6 aluminum alloy. Mixed Delrin and Torlon/PEEK roller bearings reduce shaft friction. Thread inserts insulate the stainless-steel fasteners from the aluminum. You can detach the Sailomat from the boat’s transom by undoing two bolts, making it one of the easiest to remove completely. Its compact setup occupies less horizontal space on the stern, but because the first set of lead blocks for the tiller control lines is mounted on the boat, an optional block holder will be required for some double enders. The unit features an optional emergency rudder.

Windpilot Pacific: The Windpilot Pacific melds two distinct design features: The steering-control lines attach to a lever above the pendulum rudder’s point of suspension; a 2-to-1 bevel-gear linkage between the vane sensor and servo-blade provides yaw-damping. This combination is made possible by 360-degree bevel gears, which let the servo-rudder swing up under lateral loads and make it easy to raise the rudder when it’s not in use. Adjustable friction plates securing the hemlock-and-epoxy rudder allow the rudder to kick up under fore-and-aft impact. You can adjust power transmission to the wheel or tiller by raising or lowering the point where the steering-control lines attach to the unit. The wheel coupling works like a disc break, allowing infinite adjustment. The vane sensor can be easily tilted back to reduce sensitivity and dampen motion. Body construction is cast aluminum (AlMg5) and 2.4-inch-diameter corrosion-resistant aluminum (AlMgSi5 F22) tubing, with a wall thickness ranging from .20 (in the vane tower) to .24-inches (in the rudder-shaft tube). The manufacturer uses no ball or roller bearings, preferring instead sliding bushings and sleeve bearings. Five different variable flanges facilitate installation on virtually any transom. You can remove the unit by undoing two bolts.

Fleming Global Major Series: Fleming, like the Windpilot, has the reverse servo arrangement to keep the unit compact, and keeps the 2-to-1 beveled-gear linkage between vane sensor and servo blade. The Fleming comes with both standard and storm sensor vanes made of polycarbonate. Its most noteworthy feature is its stainless-steel construction: high-grade (2205) castings and thick-walled 16-gauge stainless-steel tubing, with no structural welds. The bevel gears are also cast stainless steel. Delrin races for the stainless-steel bearings (needle bearings at the vane-to-rudder linkage, ball bearings at the rudder shaft) allow for easy removal. A 360-degree worm drive controlling the sensor-vane position can be operated by an endless line. Lateral overload protection for the stainless-steel rudder is by design, which allows the blade to lift completely out of the water (like the Sailomat and Windpilot). Forward impact protection is through a sheer pin on the hinged servo-rudder

Fleming offers a variety of mounting options, including one to accommodate open-transom boats.

Norvane: A relative newcomer, Norvane uses investment cast stainless steel and 316 stainless-steel tubing. It employs a reverse-servo design similar to the Fleming. Features include a polycarbonate sensor vane (two sizes) and two adjustable counterweights, which can be raised or lowered to change sensitivity or accommodate different vane sizes. Norvane also incorporates glass ball bearings in Delrin races on the vane sensor and the gear linkages and stainless-steel ball bearings in Delrin races on the servo-rudder shaft. Overload protection is through a breakaway tube on the pendulum shaft. The Norvane features a square socket joint to attach an optional emergency tiller. An emergency rudder is available. Mounting options fit a wide range of transoms.

Navik: This small, mostly 304 stainless-steel unit has been used successfully on Mini-Transat boats and many medium-displacement boats up to about 33 feet LOA. It’s not recommended for larger, heavy-displacement boats. The vane sensor is linked to a trim tab on the pendulum rudder, so that the underwater portion requires only minimal impulse from the vane. Control lines that run through a quadrant have the same effect as the reverse-servo arrangement in other vanes: lines to the tiller do not need to be crossed. The linkages on the Navik are carried out through ball-and-socket joints and a series of linked levers. These small parts are not as robust as the linkages in other servo-pendulum rudders. The Navik’s rudder has a sensitive overload protection that releases the oar on impact. It’s wide-swinging arc protects against lateral overload.

Cape Horn: A compact, stainless-steel unit, the Cape Horn introduces some novel changes to the basic design. The vane-to-servo-pendulum linkage uses a horizontal stainless-steel “Z bar” that reduces the number of moving parts. This arrangement allows a mounting option that conceals belowdecks part of the system, including most of the control lines to the tiller or wheel, and does away with the wheel adapter. A stainless-steel tube (3.25 inches outside diameter) is glass-laminated through the transom. Pivoting inside that tube, another smaller tube links the servo-rudder to a quadrant inside the lazarette. As the servo-blade swings, the inboard windvane quadrant rotates. Control lines are led through blocks attached to the boat’s steering quadrant (or tiller), then to a pair of jam cleats in the cockpit for quick disconnect or trim adjustment. The Cape Horn vane is the only servo-pendulum we look at this month that is recommended for hydraulically steered boats.

Installing the Cape Horn system belowdecks may not be suited to every boat. For this reason, Cape Horn also offers three conventional outboard models, with the control lines above the deck.

Read Part 2 of this article here .

Darrell Nicholson is a Cruising World associate editor. Contributing editor Michel Savage helped research this article.

• More: systems
• More How To

Top Tools for Sailboat Cruising: Must-Have Gear for 2024

Made for Shade: Cockpit Cover Options

Blackwater Wisdom for Holding Tanks

5 DIY Basics For Your Diesel Engine

​​Options To Explore

For Sale: Little Harbor 63 Ketch

Cruising Tahiti: A Party in Paradise

Sailboat Review: Fountaine Pajot Aura 51

• Digital Edition
• Customer Service
• Privacy Policy
• Terms of Use
• Email Newsletters
• Cruising World
• Sailing World
• Salt Water Sportsman
• Sport Fishing
• Wakeboarding

• Cruising Compass Media Advertising & Rates
• Blue Water Sailing
• Multihulls Today
• Subscribe Today

A Guide to Equipping Your Boat with a Windvane

Daniel Collins provides a summary of the major choices involved in the purchase of new self-steering gear. 

A common piece of equipment found on the modern offshore cruising sailboats is the autopilot. Whether it is an electronic unit, a windvane, or both, the need to relieve the helmsman from steering duty is essential to making safe passages, especially when sailing short of singlehanded.

The major choices when faced with the purchase of new self-steering gear are: What conditions the unit is expected to perform in; what are the possible failure modes; what are the challenges when mounting the components to the boat; and last but not least, how much should ongoing maintenance and the expected service life of the gear be considered?

Trim Tab Steering A trim tab windvane, less commonly seen by major manufacturers today, was the forerunner of the modern windvane system and works by affixing a small “trim tab” to the main rudder.  This trim tab is easily moved due to a small surface area, and the windvane’s power is sufficient enough to kick it to one side or the other. As the trim tab swings, it creates a significant water force, causing the ship’s main rudder to move opposite, and this motion of the main rudder is able to steer the vessel. Though this sounds complicated, it works rather well and was a predominant form of steering for many offshore boats until the servo-pendulum was developed.  It had a major drawback, though, in that it could not be fitted to a boat where the trailing edge of the rudder was difficult to access, as in the case of counter sterns.

The servo-pendulum system is the “classic” windvane, with a small servo blade that looks like the windvane’s rudder in the water, and a larger windvane “paddle” in the air.  As the vane tips to one side or the other, the servo blade turns in the water like a mini rudder, but this doesn’t generate sufficient force to steer the boat by itself. Instead, as the rudder turns, the water flowing past it swings it to one side or the other.

For a similar analogy, think of when you stick your hand outside a car window while moving. If you turn your hand sideways and “fly” it like an airplane wing, as you change the angle of your hand the air pushes it up or down. This servo rudder does that same thing in the water, and the force of the water pushing it to one side or the other is surprisingly powerful. This force is then used to turn the main rudder through lines that are affixed to the tiller or wheel of the boat.

The servo-pendulum is rather complicated as it has many moving parts and the constantly moving lines can chafe over long passages. In addition, the variety of moving joints and frequent oscillation cause certain models to have a reputation for breaking down mid-passage; to the immense frustration of their skippers. Thus, it is important to understand the issues facing the specific brand and series of the servo-pendulum you may wish to purchase, as well as to gather a general feel for its reputation in the offshore community as the quality of these devices varies greatly, even from the same manufacturer, as improvements were made from year to year or model to model.

To reduce the complexity of the installation, the auxiliary rudder windvane was invented.

Auxiliary Rudder Vane The auxiliary rudder windvane works on an entirely different principle than the other two types. Instead of the windvane, with its low power, moving a small rudder tab or servo blade to increase power before steering the boat, the auxiliary rudder windvane uses a very powerful vane to directly steer a balanced rudder. There is no connection to the boat’s rudder and typically the boat’s rudder is left centered or angled very slightly to balance the helm. Auxiliary rudder windvanes put a tremendous amount of force on the vane, rudder and boat mounting points, as they are directly steering the boat. This makes it more essential to buy an extremely well made model, as there is very little tolerance for poorly designed gear under these stresses. A well-made system, however, is exceptionally reliable offshore because it only has a few moving parts and no critical lines that can chafe through. A good auxiliary rudder system has the added advantage of being able to serve, in many cases, as a “spare” or “emergency” rudder should something happen to the main rudder or steering system. This feature has helped several sailors return safely to port after catastrophic steering failure offshore.

MAJOR CONSIDERATIONS While windvanes do not require any electricity to operate, and thus tend to be preferred by the offshore sailing crowd, they require a lot of care in mounting, installation, and use. Windvanes are only useful, of course, when the wind is blowing from a consistent direction and with a reasonable amount of force to power the vane. For most systems, five knots is sufficient, but as the wind becomes variable or gusty, the change in apparent wind angle is enough to cause the vane to behave erratically until the wind stabilizes somewhat. As a result, they tend to be most useful in longer passages, particularly in clear air.

Additionally, the mounting of a wind vane system must be extremely strong and rigid, particularly for auxiliary rudder vanes, which exert full rudder forces on their mounting points.  Because of this, the mounting system for most vanes spreads the load across many parts of the transom and can obstruct or prevent the installation of other equipment such as arches, davits, outboard motor mounts or swim platforms. Consult with the manufacturer to get diagrams of the necessary space required and mounting options before committing to a given design.

Also, if you are considering a trim-tab or servo-pendulum system, note that additional modifications to your boat may be required to provide strong and solid fairleads for the control lines, to attach those lines to your wheel or tiller, and in the special case of a trim-tab, to affix the tab to the ship’s rudder. These considerations can be a significant part of the installation effort and expense, so plan your install carefully as these details are often the weak points that bring grief to otherwise solid and reliable vane gear.

Lastly, consider the air you are putting the vane portion of the self-steering into: Is it obstructed by arches, solar panels, dodgers or turbulent air off the mainsail?  In many cases, some of this is unavoidable, so consult with the manufacturer to determine if the obstruction is significant enough to cause an issue with the vane getting clear air to properly steer by. Many vanes stick up far enough to get above deck and cockpit objects, so make sure there is nothing above the vane such as dinghy davits or mizzen sails to obstruct the full range of the vane’s motion.

COMMON FAILURE MODES The windvane is, in general, an exceptionally reliable piece of gear if it is suitable for your boat, and maintained and manufactured properly. However, failures do occur, most notably on trim-tab and servo pendulum systems. Excessive chafe on control lines, control line fairlead breakdown, and screw or retaining pin failure on part of the gear mechanism are the common offshore issues. Fortunately, replacing the lines is not difficult, and spares are easy to carry and refit. If a key vane component goes into the water though, replacing it at sea, even if a spare is carried, can often be impossible in all but the calmest conditions. Therefore, maintaining vane gear and keeping a lanyard or tether on the most critical components is essential.

For instance, with offshore sailors the first and foremost consideration is usually that the unit be able to function at all times in nearly all but the most extreme survival weather and require the least amount of crew interaction necessary. This necessitates that the unit be able to operate independently of electrical systems or engine function, and thus often swings the offshore sailor’s preference in favor of a windvane.

However, if the sailor has a very well equipped yacht, with redundant and ample power supplies, or if he or she expects to motor as much or more than sail, during which electricity is provided by the engine’s operation, an electronic autopilot may make more sense.

For many sailors with the budget, having both a windvane and an electronic autopilot may be a good solution, keeping in mind the situations in which either will be needed. But armed with the awareness of how and where each of the major self-steering types are most useful and in what ways they are often unsuitable, a wise skipper can make the most sensible decision for his vessel and sailing intentions.

Daniel Collins, an ASA certified sailing and navigation instructor, amateur extra class radio operator and small boat racer, enjoys experimenting with marine electronics. He is also actively involved in community-driven social change. Email him at [email protected], or read his blog at www.oddasea.com . He owns Aletheia, an Allied Princess.

Cape Horn Marine Products www.capehorn.com

Hydrovane www.hydrovane.com

Sailomat International www.sailomat.com

Scanmar International products include the Monitor Windvane and Auto-Helm Windvane www.selfsteer.com

Administrator

You might also like.

Problems with Paint Application Q & A

Dinghy Security

Winterizing Your Engine

Read the Summer-Fall Edition of Blue Water Sailing

Read the fall 2023 edition of blue water sailing, recent posts.

• Commercial Sailing Cargo Ship on Maiden Voyage from France to New York

• Survey of the Week

Please Visit Our Sponsor’s Webpages

• Media Advertising & Rates

Published by Blue Water Sailing Media, a division of Day Communications, Inc., Middletown, RI

Publisher & Editor: George Day

Blue Water Sailing Media publishes Blue Water Sailing magazine, Multihulls Today and other titles.

Cruising Compass Advertising Sales:

George Day, Newport, RI [email protected] 401-847-7612

• Sail Cargo Building a Sustainable Sailing-Ship Cargo Business
• A Naturalist’s Look at the Amazing Galapagos Islands

© 2014 Blue Water Media. All rights reserved. | Admin

• Competitions
• British Yachting Awards
• Southampton Boat Show
• Print Subscription
• Digital Subscription
• Single Issues
• Advertise with us

Your special offer

Subscribe to Sailing Today with Yachts & Yachting today!

Save 32% on the shop price when to subscribe for a year at just £39.95

Subscribe to Sailing Today with Yachts & Yachting!

Save 32% on the shop price when you subscribe for a year at just £39.95

Wind vane steering

It’s the green version of an autopilot, helming your boat while consuming no power. sarah curry advises how best to use a wind vane steering system.

The overall concept is simple: a non-electric device mounted on the boat’s transom has a vane that takes a signal from the wind. Based on this input, the boat is steered – by various mechanisms – on the apparent wind-based course you set.

The beauty of an apparent wind-based course is that as you sail along in ever fluctuating winds, your boat stays properly trimmed. Your course follows the wind, but over long distances this is much more efficient, comfortable, and surprisingly faster than a magnetic compass course.

Setting and Adjusting a Course

The first step is to sail your boat on the desired heading; easy enough. Let’s say this happens to be on a beam reach. Set a balanced sail plan and trim the sails for that point of sail. It’s important to feel the helm; the boat should almost be steering herself by the time you are ready to engage the windvane.

Set this course (a beam reach) for your windvane by feathering the vane so it points directly into the apparent wind, and engage the unit. As your boat falls off course the new wind angle will push the vane over and the system will take control to bring you back to that beam reach.

The apparent wind at the top of the mast (which is where your wind instruments are measuring from) may be different from the apparent wind the vane feels. Attaching a piece of yarn to the top of the vane is helpful for determining the wind direction.

Has your electronic autopilot made you lazy when it comes to sail trim and boat balance? We are all guilty. You may ignore your autopilot grinding away and wearing itself out, but your windvane will tell you if your boat is not well enough balanced by not keeping course. Bear in mind she’s one of those silent and observant type teachers – but she’s a good one; you’ll become a better sailor for it.

A pole on the jib or genoa is a must for downwind sailing with a windvane; a collapsing headsail puts the boat off balance with every swell.

Keep an eye on the heading. Tradewind sailing is lovely with fairly consistent wind direction, but if there’s a wind shift over time your heading will also be changing. Adjust course back to your desired heading by changing the vane angle and readjusting sails for the new point of sail.

Such course adjustments are done on most units by pulling a line that can rotate the vane through 360 degrees – to whatever point of sail you want to be on. This course-setting line is usually an endless loop that you run into the cockpit, so that you can adjust your heading without having to reach over the boat’s stern. This line is best run down a lifeline so it’s reachable from the cockpit, but not in the way.

Minor tweaking is fairly normal – to fall off or head up a few degrees. But if the wind shifts more drastically, let’s say 20°, then your course will also shift by 20° following the wind. To get back on track Pull on the course line to change the vane by about the same amount (20°), so you are back on the desired heading. At the same time you are trimming your sails to this new point of sail. In a circumstance where the wind suddenly backs, you will probably jump on the wheel, trim your sails and then adjust the vane to suit.

All types of windvane steer to a wind-based course, but do so by very different methods.

Sevo-pendulum system

Most servo-pendulum models steer using the ship’s rudder via control lines led to the ship’s wheel or tiller. Brands are Aries, of which 14,000 have been sold since 1968, and which is now based in Amsterdam, Cape Horn (direct connection to quadrant), Fleming, Monitor, Sailomat, Navik (out of production), Norvane, Neptune, South Atlantic, Voyageur, and Wind Pilot Pacific. These systems cost £1,500-£5,000.

As the boat falls off course the wind angle changes and the vane is pushed over. Movement of the vane rotates the in-water servo oar (also called paddle or blade). Once moved from dead ahead position, the flow of the water pushes the oar to one side with force. A connecting line is pulled to turn the wheel or tiller so the main rudder moves to bring the boat back on course.

Auxiliary rudder system

Auxiliary rudder systems are independent from all other aspects of the boat. As a complete second steering system and rudder, the loads they must deal with are far greater in comparison.

After the vane is feathered into the wind, the main rudder must be ‘locked off’ so it is stationary. While setting up and with hands on the wheel to feel the helm, you’ll find a sweet spot where the boat is tracking nicely. Often the main rudder won’t be centreline, depending on how the boat sails, the conditions and the seas. Lock the main rudder in that comfortable position, and it becomes a giant trim tab to the auxiliary rudder. The system is then engaged and the auxiliary rudder will take over steering the boat.

The three main Auxiliary Rudder system types, all of which function differently, and which cost approximately £3,000-£5,500, can be tuned even further if you’re someone who likes to tune and tweak.

Auxiliary rudder with servo-pendulum

Auxiliary rudder with trim tab

Auxiliary rudder with large vane

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

America’s Cup Boats: What it’s like helming an AC75

How to Sail on a Budget: Tom Cunliffe’s Column

Anchoring Masterclass: How to Anchor like an Expert

Offering a wealth of practical advice and a dynamic mix of in-depth boat, gear and equipment news, Sailing Today is written cover to cover by sailors, for sailors. Since its launch in 1997, the magazine has sealed its reputation for essential sailing information and advice.

• Telegraph.co.uk

ADVERTISING

© 2024 Chelsea Magazine Company , part of the Telegraph Media Group . | Terms & Conditions | Privacy Policy | Cookie Policy

Please verify you are a human

Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.

This may happen as a result of the following:

• Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example)
• Your browser does not support cookies

Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.

Reference ID: de55d726-62aa-11ef-ace3-f6c2a699a939

Powered by PerimeterX , Inc.

• Inshore Fishing
• Offshore Fishing

• Download ALL AT SEA
• Subscribe to All At Sea
• Advertising – All At Sea – Caribbean

Mastering Wind Vane Steering: Lessons from 12 Years of Sailing with Hydrovane

You know you want it...

Mocka Jumbies and Rum...

“Oh come on Wayne, what’s wrong with you? Don’t steer so close to the wind or you’ll lose sail pressure!” Pitufa’s genoa starts flapping just at that moment, she loses speed, stalls, then bears off until the sails fill again and we continue our boisterous ride close-hauled in 25 knots of breeze. Only now the wind angle’s at 60 degrees instead of the 45 we have to sail to keep our course. “What the f***, Wayne! Where are you going now?”

Christian and I are sitting in the cockpit, legs braced against the opposite side of the cockpit seats, munching sandwiches while hurling abuse at our helmsman. Wayne ignores our rude comments and hectically leans over to correct the course again. Once we have finished our lunch, I take over the helm, only to find out that the boat’s indeed almost impossible to keep on course—she’s overpowered since the wind has picked up during our lunch. Christian quickly reefs the genoa and eases the main sheet. We engage the wind vane once again and now that the sail configuration is right, Pitufa continues like on rails, Wayne’s little sail only flicks left and right occasionally for slight corrections. We profusely apologize to our helmsman.

Understanding Wind Vane Steering

A hydrovane can steer the boat tirelessly 24/7 without needing breaks, cookies, or talking back when wrongly accused. But it can’t handle conditions a human helmsperson couldn’t manage. Many crews never seem to check and then complain about their wind steering not working properly. If the boat’s out of control because of too much sail pressure, or if there’s simply not enough wind to move the boat, the best wind vane can’t work wonders.

Types of Wind Vanes

There are basically three types of wind vanes: 

Trim Tab Steering : The oldest concept, where a small trim tab is attached directly to the main rudder. A wind vane moves the tab, which swings and pushes the main rudder into the opposite direction—a sound system, but it has the disadvantage that the main rudder needs adjustments and it only works for certain rudder designs.

Servo-Pendulum Vanes : Popular since the 1960s, these consist of a small vane and mini rudder. As the vane tips to one side or the other, the servo blade turns in the water, moving a system of lines affixed to the tiller or wheel of the boat. These gears work well for many cruisers but are prone to failure due to their complicated system of moving parts and potential chafe.

Auxiliary Rudder Vane Systems : Featuring a substantial wind vane that moves an auxiliary rudder, which steers the boat by itself while the main rudder is fixed. These systems are sturdy and reliable, ideal for long passages in remote areas. Additionally, the auxiliary rudder can act as an emergency rudder in case of a catastrophic steering failure offshore.

Why We Chose Hydrovane

We count ourselves lucky that our SY Pitufa came with an auxiliary rudder system. Our Hydrovane has sturdy mounts on the stern of the boat, the rudder and wind vane are stored below deck when not in use. During our very first passage on our newly acquired boat, we mounted them both and then tried to understand the mechanics behind it. We figured out that you have to adjust the wind vane at the same angle into the wind that you would like the boat to go, failed at first as we mistook the back edge for the front, and then stared in awe as the little thing actually started leaning back and forth to steer our big yacht all by itself. We named the Hydrovane Wayne Vaney, and Wayne has steered Pitufa on all longer passages over the past 12 years.

The Advantages and Minor Hiccups

Downwind is not Wayne’s favorite course, and he tends to add some miles to our passages by deviating a few degrees from the set course. In gusty conditions, he needs someone to stay in the cockpit and adjust the weather helm as the boat goes closer to the wind when the wind picks up, which can be tiring during night watches in rough conditions. And of course, a wind vane knows nothing about compass course and rhumb line, but simply follows the wind and will happily steer the boat in a circle when a squall clocks the wind around and the tired night watch doesn’t pay attention.

Miss Pfaff Rocks: The Unlikely Companion of Our Cruising Voyage on S&S 41 SY Pitufa

However, the advantages outweigh such minor hiccups: The simple mechanical system is reliable, has no need for electricity, and does not drain the batteries—a major problem for many boats on passage when the solar panels are often shaded by sails and the wind generator just spins helplessly on downwind courses. Additionally, it would keep on steering even if the batteries failed or if we lost our main rudder (touch wood!). We do have an electric autopilot as well, but we use it mainly when motoring or for short passages when we don’t set up the wind vane. Hydrovanes can be installed off-center or with extra-long wind vanes, so they work for most designs of monohulls and even catamarans.

Birgit and Christian have been watching Wayne Vaney steer their boat from the Med via the Atlantic and on to the Pacific. Check out their blog www.pitufa.at for more info or read their books: “Sailing Towards the Horizon,” “On Velvet Paws Towards the Horizon,” and “Cruising Know-How” available on Amazon.

Choosing the Right Boat for Your Sailing Adventure: Factors to Consider and Essential Equipment

Don't Miss a Beat!

Stay in the loop with the Caribbean

LEAVE A REPLY Cancel reply

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Notify me of follow-up comments by email.

Notify me of new posts by email.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

Is It Even Possible To Be a “Part-Time Cruiser?”

Costa rica yachting: 7-day charter itinerary from marina papagayo, the abacos gems: beyond the hype of the exumas, so caribbean you can almost taste the rum....

Recent Posts

Usvi charter yacht show 2024: showcasing professionalism and new yachts, superyacht bayesian sinks in seconds: what went wrong, vipca welcomes new executive director staci smith in historic leadership change, meet the new leaders at b&g marine services in tortola, bvi, recent comments, subscribe to all at sea.

Don't worry... We ain't getting hitched...

EDITOR PICKS

Talkative posts, the seven words you can’t put in a boat name, saying “no”, program for financing older boats – tips and suggestions, popular category.

• Cruise 1745
• St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands 509
• Tortola, British Virgin Islands 431
• Caribbean 430

All At Sea - The Caribbean's Waterfront Community Caribbean Cruising, Sailing, Boating, Fishing and Yachting

Contact us: [email protected]

© Kennan Holdings LLC - All Rights Reserved

Hebridean self-steering wind vane

“well worth investigating”

TOM CUNLIFFE The Complete Ocean Skipper

“I’m impressed… the vane performed well on all points of sail, including downwind… the servo pendulum system took control to the extent that it could sail a course with the sails badly set” DAVID PUGH Editor, Practical Boat Owner

Build your own servo-pendulum wind vane from a kit

The Hebridean wind vane is an innovative version of the tried and tested servo-pendulum self steering system for sailing boats steered by tiller or wheel. The Hebridean  has crossed Atlantic and Pacific oceans but is also quick and easy to mount for weekend coastal sailing or jaunts across the Channel, Minch or other strait/sea.

Stern freeboard The kit fits yachts with stern freeboards from 600-1000mm (stationary). It is designed specifically for DIY construction. The Hebridean can be tilted up out of the water or lifted off the stern and stored on the guard wires. Or partially dismantled for storage below.

Horizontal vane axle The Hebridean is the only serv0-pendulum vane with an actual horizontal vane axle. One of its unique design features allowing boosted performance, simplified construction and enhanced efficiency in all conditions. John Fleming’s analytical genius was responsible for the innovative geometry on which this landmark development in servo-pendulum windvane design depends.

Simplicity For confidence at sea or in remote locations, the simplicity of its components and assembly crucially allows the unit to be maintained with tools usually found onboard. Building the Hebridean yourself is a hands-on “course” providing you not only with a good understanding of its workings, but also substantial confidence in your ability to maintain it anywhere.

Wood When sourcing your own wood you need 4m of suitable hardwood at 145 x 20mm (EU standard). The longest plank is 1800mm to make the pendulum/paddle for 1000mm height transoms. Here is the wood cutting plan .

Affordable The Hebridean offers DIY sailors the opportunity to build an affordable wind vane in wood and stainless steel, with no welding, bearings or plastic cogs in the main H2 Kit. (there is one worm and wheel in the optional Remote Course Adjustment Kit which can be viewed in action in this youtube video ). All the metal components are prefabricated (drilling and some surface finishing required) ready for you to bolt to the wooden frame. The build requires basic wood-work skills and tools. And several days of absorbing and highly rewarding work.

Wheel steering too A “drum” kit for connecting the Hebridean to wheel steering is available.

Shipping For shipping costs, please contact me at the email address below with your full name, delivery address and phone number (required by carrier) for a quotation.

Kit prices Prices are listed on our Prices & Ordering page.

A section by section video from Hebridean builder, Ian French Thank you Ian!

• Part 1 Intro and frame: Intro & Frame
• Part 2 Turret and Vane : Turret & Vane
• Part 3 Fixtures and fittings : Fixtures & Fittings
• Part 4 Servo Rudder: Servo Rudder
• Part 5 Boat mounting: Boat Mounting
• Part 6 Testing the wind vane: Testing the Wind Vane
• Part 7 Wind vane in action
• Part 8 See the remote steering mechanism being assembled . The single weld required in Part 8 is completed by us before kit dispatch.
• Part 9 Preparing Remote Control Lines

See the Hebridean in action

• Videos shot in Scotland in varying sea and wind conditions Scotland Sea Trials
• Trials over 8 years of coastal and off-shore sailing by John Fleming, the designer of the Hebridean Wind Vane The Hebridean in action.
• Emmanuel sailing on Lake Geneva with Mont Blanc in the background Wind Vane in action on Lake Geneva
• Mounted on the 45 degree rudder stock of a Twister off the Scilly Isles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNlZHFFseB0
• Finnish archipelago Sailing https://photos.app.goo.gl/hYWTEcJhbdX3WGe39
• Wheel steering , all beautifully finished, on Al Hanson’s Pearson 31-2. Al’s video also features his removable Hebridean mounting solution attached to his folding transom boarding ladder.
• 1912 Falmouth Quay Punt Plymouth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6BIxYQUPiM
• Wind vane and dolphins off Fair Isle https://vimeo.com/136486631
• Courtesy Tom Fisher on “Angus” The Hebridean Wind Vane in action in strong winds 25/5/17 Bermuda to Azores https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po-oXzVaIAk
• Kristian Møller Pedersen’s first day out with the Hebridean on trial after having completing the wind vane also see testimonials page   https://youtu.be/d2fjzbkh0dU
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg7JgwH6Y58
• https://youtu.be/1090Z-dK2Ys
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjAUfm-i6Yw
• Hebridean mounted on top of rudder stock on a canoe stern sailing off Canary Islands Hebridean in use in Canary Islands
• An afternoon sail in 10 to 15 knots on Port Phillip Bay watch-v=QBx0ywAjMCA&feature=youtu.be
• Video of the “drum” kit watch-v=4KLWJbYYOF0&feature=youtu.be

Frequently Asked Questions

John Fleming  1951 – 2023 teacher   yachtsman   inventor   thinker  

Here is a 10 minute video tribute to the Hebridean’s designer, John Fleming. It was aired at his life celebration in The Tip i at his family home, The Dell, Nethy Bridge, 19 April 2023. https://www.sgmarkphotography.com/Client-Area/John-Fleming  Use password sleepyeagle (the name of John’s Pioneer 10).

Notice from Ian Kirkwood

When John’s health got worse, he asked me again to take on the project. I am an enthusiastic fan of his highly ingenious version of the servo-pendulum self steering-system. I sailed in company with John on and off for a decade — using my own Hebridean (I was his first customer in 2013).

Our Hebrideans steered us around Scotland’s northwest coast and isles. We made three trips in company to the Faroe Islands. On the first of these I sailed happily solo. All thanks to the Hebridean. Dying winds foiled an attempt to reach Iceland: our boats lay calmly hove-to overnight a few miles off the Butt of Lewis. Plan B proved to be a fabulous voyage down the length of the Atlantic coast of the Outer Hebrides. A highlight was anchoring off Callanish in blazing sun.

I hope to continue John’s personal style of service. Please allow a generous lead time as I get used to stocking the components and preparing Hebridean kits while maintaining their high quality…and a reasonable kit price in times of rising costs.

 Email us: [email protected] | Phone: (510) 215 - 2010

Windvane Steering

Windvane self-steering options fall into two categories, servo pendulum and auxiliary rudder. Servo pendulum solutions utilize your boat’s own rudder and as the name suggests, auxiliary rudder products work with a separate, independent rudder system.

We believe servo-pendulum systems like the Monitor are usually your best option. They are more powerful, and perform better across a wider range of conditions on most boats and never require assistance from your autopilot.

You'll find a comprehensive review of the comparative merits of both systems at " Auxiliary Rudder vs. Servo-Pendulum " in our library.

At Scanmar, we manufacture the Monitor Windvane servo pendulum system, and the Saye’s Rig, which is often the best choice for very large boats with high freeboard.

Whatever your unique requirements, we have a self-steering solution for you.

The Monitor and TopHat 

Saye's rig.

Hydrovane ® – Your best crew member

Hydrovane® at a glance, the hydrovane self-steering windvane is both a mechanical self-steering windvane for offshore sailboats and an emergency rudder..

With our Hydrovane ® wind-control systems, we offer a combination of wind-vane control and an always-ready emergency rudder, suitable for every stern.

Off-centre assembly, even for modern yachts with bathing platforms, tailgates and catamarans, can be subsequently equipped. These systems are the first choice for many blue-water sailors today. tom logisch is also specialised in installations on large catamarans.

key benefits

Advantages of using hydrovane self-steering windvane solutions.

• Suitable for all blue-water yachts – for all yacht sterns and catamarans
• Off-centre installation possible – for all modern yachts with bathing platforms
• Emergency rudder ready for use at any time – a considerable safety benefit
• Simple operation – ready for use in four simple steps
• Independent rudder – no connection to the main rudder
• No lines across the cockpit – therefore also suitable for hydraulic controls/centre cockpits
• Adjustable wind vane for heavy yachts
• Worldwide services + ARC services
• Assembly and installation by tom logisch

Please see our tom logisch installation service +

Hydrovane – Your best crew member

Last updated: 21 Aug 2023

• Hydrovane ® YW press article, August 2012 + (PDF)
• Hydrovane ®  sailing downwind review + (PDF)
• Hydrovane ®  new owner manual + (PDF)
• Hydrovane ® installation guide, March 2023 + (PDF)
• Hydrovane ® measurement worksheet + (PDF)
• Hydrovane® warnings for installation + (PDF)
• Hydrovane ® Montageanleitung V18042016 + (PDF)
• Hydrovane ® Beschreibung V18042016 + (PDF)

Privacy Overview

• --> Login   or   Sign Up
• Login   or   Sign Up -->

• Other Kits and Plans
• Windvane Self Steering

B&B Windvane Self Steering Plans

• B&B Annual Messabout
• Capsize Camp
• All Kayaks and Canoes
• Diva 15'8" Kayak
• Grand Diva 17'6" Kayak
• Moccasin 12' Canoe
• Flyfisher 13' Canoe
• Moccasin 14' Canoe
• Moccasin Double 15'6" Canoe
• Birder Decked Canoe 13' and 15'8
• Expedition Sailing Canoe
• All Dinghies and Tenders
• Catspaw Pram
• Spindrift Dinghy
• All Sailboats
• Core Sound 15
• Core Sound 17
• Core Sound 17 Mark 3
• Core Sound 20
• Core Sound 20 Mark 3
• Bay River Skiff 17
• Belhaven 19
• Mini Trimaran
• Class Globe 5.80 Kit
• Princess Sharpie 22'
• Princess Sharpie 26'
• All Powerboats
• All Jessy Skiffs 12-17'
• Jessy 12'
• Jessy 15'
• Jessy 17'
• All Outer Banks Cruisers
• Outer Banks 20
• Outer Banks 24
• Outer Banks 26
• All Ocracoke Center Consoles
• Ocracoke 20
• Ocracoke 20-B
• Ocracoke 24
• Ocracoke 256
• Cape Lookout 28
• Wing Foil Kits
• All Other Kits and Plans
• "Tractor" Canoe Seat
• Mast Head Floats
• All Building Supplies and Tools
• Marine Plywood
• All B&B Epoxy
• Temperature Control for Epoxy
• Epoxy Additives
• All Hardware and Rigging
• All Rigging
• Eyestraps and Fairleads
• Shackles, Hooks and Pins
• All Rudder Hardware
• Pintles and Gudgeons
• Tillers and Accessories
• Hardware kits
• All Masts, Track and More
• 6061-T6 Aluminum Tubing
• Sailtrack and Accessories
• Starboard Mast Plugs
• Wind indicators
• All Electrical
• Battery Monitors
• Solar Power System
• Boarding Ladders
• Beach Rollers
• All Apparel
• B&B Approved Products and Tools
• Shop by Brand

B&B Yacht Designs

• Amarine Made
• View all Brands

• Create New Wish List

Share This Article

• Similar Products

Product Description

Expected release date TBD. We're working on it. 

Plans for this windvane will include full size templates for all parts along with critical dimensions, recommended materials and things to watch out for. Some dimensions of the vane do not matter and allow this design to be fitted to almost all transom shapes and rake angles with proper mounting. The name of the game is LOW FRICTION with windvane self steering devices. We also plan to offer a kit of components to help you get started.

Version 1 of the B&B windvane seen the video below (Tour of Carlita) featured the same hardware below the pylon but a vertically pivoting vane was used intitially for it's simplicity. The downside is that not much power is generated on the tab in light wind and the vane can be more affected by heel angle. Also the lighy weight wing is more difficult to bild.

Graham writes... "Horizontal axis vanes and servo pendulum paddles are the most powerful self steering systems and are certainly required for large or heavy handed vessels. Carlita is a light well mannered boat and requires finesse rather than brute force. If you have not already seen the self steering video, check out the video and answer your own question. She is running almost straight downwind and surfing. After this video was taken she surfed to a little over 10 knots without misbehaving.

The key is an ultra light vane and very low friction. The lead counter weight weighs just 6 oz. to balance the vane. This makes the vane very responsive and reduces friction and lowers the mass moment of inertia. The next important feature is differential feedback in the linkage. This means that when the vane kicks the servo tab over and the tab turns the auxiliary rudder, the angle of the tab is rapidly reduced. If you do not have this feature the boat will hunt badly down wind where there is no natural balance from the sails as you do when close hauled. The whole thing is a delicate balance between power and feedback."

In the video below, Graham sails Carlita a Core Sound 17 Mark 3 with the windvane rudder disabled in the "raised" position and the boat steers herself with proper sail trim to windward. Notice that the tiller is simply lashed. 

Graham continues... "I want the rudder fixed to aid directional stability. Before engaging the vane, I try to find the sweet spot for the rudder and lock it. I will then observe the course after the vane is engaged for a while and may rotate the vane at the clutch or move the tiller slightly. Usually I adjust the clutch because it did not have the right load on the vane when clutched. It is a powerful little vane and will tolerate a fair amount of imbalance. All self steering systems hunt so the better everything is balanced the less it will hunt.

Wind vanes are not for everyone. If you do not enjoy fiddling then they are not for you. Naturally they are worthless in waterways because the wind is too shifty. It did do a great job last week running down the Cape Fear River. The GPS showed a top speed of 8.75 knots and the speed was rarely under 6, at least 3 knots of that was current."

Product Videos

Custom field, product reviews.

• Recommended

Ocracoke 20-B Plans

Ocracoke 20-B Plans and CNC .DXF FILES

B&B T-shirt

Sail Stop for B&B Track

Buffet Dinner at the B&B Messabout

B&b blend epoxy thickener (cabosil and wood flour).

1 1/2 gal Epoxy Kit

Birder Double Canoe Plans 15' 8"

Spindrift 9 Lines